So i'm trying to defret my bass. I rushed through the actual fret pulling process though and put some pretty big chips and dents in the wood. I made a radius sanding bar and got it very smooth and even (not this picture) but I'm starting to wonder if it's worth it to finish. Can i just fill these dents in with wood filler or is the fretboard ruined beyond repair?
Tell your adhd to calm the fuck down for a second and apply some due diligence to this. If you have a radiused sanding board, just do it. Hell i'd probably do a glaze of epoxy to fill the fret holes and make the board glass-smooth.
Yea, you probably fucked it up though. I hope we're talking about a downmarket bass and not an Alembic or something.
But what could be so damaged that it cant be fixed? Did i fuck up the structural integrity of the fretboard? Assuming i do a good job filling the slots/chips, sanding, and setting the nut and truss rod etc. What problems could i have
>>1003898 Oh nothing will be like, blown to bits. Itll play and its not like you have to worry about intonation. Probably would be a good idea to get some more rosewood (i assume its rosewood?) And do some fill on the fret holes along with some glue/sawdust. Flush sand that then.
Fretboards will come off with a little heatgun on it by the way. May think about a new one if you feel like you jacked this one up too much.
Make sure the engine isn't seized first >take spark plugs out >Put in penetrating oil >Put breaker bar on crank >Pull til the engine moves a bit >Change all fluids >Do a compression test Once you know the engine isn't seized and has compression, you can work on getting the engine spark fuel and air
So I just cut my grass and I want to make it look nice. I'm going to go to Lowe's and buy some fertilizer/grass feed to clear up some dead spots, but I have an issue. There are holes like pic related scattered in my backyard, but I'm not sure what they are from. I poured some water out of the hose into one of them to see how far it went down and I didn't manage to overflow it. I googled a little and I think they might be voles or something. I had a problem with burrowing wasps last year but I don't think this is them. I was wondering if somebody... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1003238 Synthetic sinew is great for sewing leather.
For leather pattern, it's really straight forward. You can either just cut a large circle and use some leather cord to synch it up, or get more elaborate and cut/sew the leather. Your call, what's the end goal? How much effort do you want to put into it?
>>1003238 A few tips for you to save you some hassle in stitching and various other things. I don't know what your experience level is, so no insult intended if this is painfully obvious. * Lay out the placement of your holes beforehand, then use an awl (or roofing nail) to pre-punch them.
*Since you'll need to flip the pouch inside out after sewing, definitely make sure to make the opening is a little larger than you think it needs to be. Leather can be a bitch to try and reverse in this way.
*Synthetic... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Didn't see anywhere else appropriate, so here we are.
Pic related is louder than God's revolver, and I have hella sensitive ears. I already have tinnitus from being in HS marching band, and the ENT I go to says I gotta stop wearing earplugs. So that leaves me with over-ear style stuff. I'm currently using some 20 dollar 3M ones, the red ones you see everywhere, but they only have a 21db noise reduction, which apparently isn't enough. Anyone have any suggestions? Cost isn't really an issue, it's going on my tool bill.
A couple notes: 1. if your leaving your mouth open, you can damage your hearing because of the Eustachian tube and thin skin and membrane near your auditory system 2. Outer ear wear should cup the bone that sticks out of your skull slightly behind your ear. I forget its name right now, but it can transfer sound into your inner ear and cause damage. They even make some hearing aids that are drilled into this bone, because of its harmonic abilities to transfer noise... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
My family owns a pc repair shop and someone dropped off a dead Korean monitor. 2560x1600 resolution, 30 inch. I cracked it open to try and fix it, and after a while I finally found what appears to be a blown resistor?
I'm looking for a heatgun so I can replace it, but I have no idea what the value of the resistor is. Beside it, it says 24v 403, I'm assuming that means it's 24 volts, and that 403 is the identifier for the resistance of the resistor?
>>1002715 That looks like an inductor not a resistor(note the L403). Also usually resistors in SMD packages have their resistance printed on top. The best thing to do right now is to find a service manual that actually has a schematic in it and find the exact value of this part. Failing that you could remove it and measure but if it has really blown you won't get something meaningful.
>>1002714 Since it's L403, it's much more likely a ferrite bead. Ferrite beads generally have no markings, but the replacement isn't probably critical and even a piece of wire is likely to work (even if it won't fulfill the legal requirements for emissions).
The thing is that ferrite beads do not fail on their own. You either have a short circuit downstream or the stuff before the bead is fucked.
How do I keep motivated? I have done the electrical, insulation, tore our and redid the kitchen, plumbing, but this fucking drywall is killing me. It's my first time and after my first total retarded wall it isnt nearly as bad, but it takes so fucking long and then you have to sand and sand I just want to fucking leave it.
God I guess. Looking at what people charge for this its crazy. The kitchen actually almost looks decent, but I have to do the flooring still, but trying to get all the walls done before I bother with floor and trim because of this little shit.
Trying to build a fucking 400 liner foot fence at the same time as well. Holy shit its like so many projects I just want to shitpost and relax a while ;w;
I'm in the same boat, replacing old shitty plasterboard and wood sheating. I have a few shit spots and have to take my time in some areas with cardboard shims and a 12 pack. It looks to me like you're doing too many cuts and need to just slow down and fill larger areas as you're going to have to do a shitload of taping as such.
Any cheap isolation tips? Want to play drums in there, got acoustic insulation foam and was thinking of drywalling and acoustic caulking. Maybe 3 inch styrofoam on the outside and just put some stucco mud on it
Look, I don't give a shit if you won't buy anything that isn't branded "Snap-On" or "Festool" but one cannot deny there are some real gems lurking among the aisles at Harbor Freight for stupid cheap.
What are some things you've picked up from /diy/'s favorite store that represent solid performance/value?
I will start. Their 8-piece HSS Windsor Design lathe tools are literally rebadged (highly regarded) PSI woodturning tool starting kit. Thought it's the same price as Amazon, you can combine it the 20% off coupon.
18ga... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
HF airless paint sprayer: worked perfectly, everything was serviable, painted my whole house in like 3 hrs. 260$ bux? Electric pole saw: works perfectly.80$ Don't even need my gas chainsaw anymore. Most of their quick grip style and assorted clamps work just fine as well. 50$ dado stack 2$ 100 security bit set Also, their chisels and other misc. woodworking tools are cheap as fuck and you can't go wrong.
I need some tips on how to scavage this piece of tree trunk, that is still hatched to the ground bu it's roots.
The tree is a "Agave Americana" (i'll post a pic in a bit) that someone cut to make a didgeridoo. I had the idea to use this leftover piece to make a resonance box for a stringed instrument. But turns out that trees aren't very easy to pull off the ground... Although I can get it to wiggle quite a bit.
Any tips? I don't really have a machete that I can use... I do have a saw though.
>>1004596 >Where I can find the the same system of a knife switch ( pic related ) but has a potentiometer ( for speed control ) You won't find any potentiometer that can handle 30 amps. Potentiometers are low-watt devices (usually <2 watts or so, most are less than half a watt) that you apply a low voltage to, and then you use that low voltage or current output to control a power-dividing circuit.
You could use a rheostat. A rheostat works just like a potentiometer (it's... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Okay /diy/, longtime reader, first time poster. First of all, forgive my non-standard MS Paint wiring diagram. I've been Googling my ass off to learn about how to make circuits, and I feel like I've learned just enough to get myself hurt or damage my car, so I'm coming to you to check my work and tell me how wrong I am.
I want to add ambient footwell lighting to my car. I have four LED strips that I will wire in parallel. Each has 15 LEDs, for a total of 60--I'm not sure if they're 5050 or 3528, but the difference shouldn't be important.... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
In case the wiring diagram doesn't make it clear, I'm accomplishing the "always on" by running the negative side of the switch's "On" output straight to ground, bypassing the factory dome switch. When I do this, if I want the lights dimmer, I know I need to give them less current, so what kind of resistor do I need to put in to accomplish this? I figured a 10 Ohm resistor would add 10 Ohms of resistance, effectively doubling the resistance of the circuit by my figuring, and therefore making the lights half as bright.
I know only enough... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I'll be bumping with cute animals and additional questions. Stuff like: Is parallel the way to go for connecting the strips together? I've heard LEDs actually cause a voltage drop, so I figured wiring them in series would make them progressively dimmer and not matching.
I'll also add that I have a multimeter, and only a very rudimentary knowledge of how to use it.
i cant says YES or NO coz the switch is a mystery. you need to redraw it with a standard notation so we can tell what connects to what inside the switch. use either the left or right representation in the pic provided. personally i prefer the right coz you can follow the current flow, instead of it being a black box.
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