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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 46. page
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So i'm trying to defret my bass. I rushed through the actual fret pulling process though and put some pretty big chips and dents in the wood. I made a radius sanding bar and got it very smooth and even (not this picture) but I'm starting to wonder if it's worth it to finish. Can i just fill these dents in with wood filler or is the fretboard ruined beyond repair?
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Tell your adhd to calm the fuck down for a second and apply some due diligence to this. If you have a radiused sanding board, just do it. Hell i'd probably do a glaze of epoxy to fill the fret holes and make the board glass-smooth.

Yea, you probably fucked it up though. I hope we're talking about a downmarket bass and not an Alembic or something.
>>
>>1003885

But what could be so damaged that it cant be fixed? Did i fuck up the structural integrity of the fretboard? Assuming i do a good job filling the slots/chips, sanding, and setting the nut and truss rod etc. What problems could i have
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>>1003898
Oh nothing will be like, blown to bits. Itll play and its not like you have to worry about intonation.
Probably would be a good idea to get some more rosewood (i assume its rosewood?) And do some fill on the fret holes along with some glue/sawdust. Flush sand that then.

Fretboards will come off with a little heatgun on it by the way. May think about a new one if you feel like you jacked this one up too much.

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Guess what I'm making
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fishtank
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>>1003847
Fish Tank?
Bookshelf?
Oscilloscope?
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>>1003847
kindling?
bookcase (throw away tube)?
space taker upper?

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I have this 74 AMC Javelin sitting in my driveway. I don't know anything about cars but sort of want to fix it, what would be a good place to start learning about older vehicles?
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>>1003656
Small block Ford
Holley carb probably a 650 DP.

Best way is to use google and youtube. Since the motor has a lot of work done to it, a haynes repair manual wont help too much but will give you a general idea.
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>>1003656
get your hands on the AMC factory service manual(s)
>>
Make sure the engine isn't seized first
>take spark plugs out
>Put in penetrating oil
>Put breaker bar on crank
>Pull til the engine moves a bit
>Change all fluids
>Do a compression test
Once you know the engine isn't seized and has compression, you can work on getting the engine spark fuel and air

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So I just cut my grass and I want to make it look nice. I'm going to go to Lowe's and buy some fertilizer/grass feed to clear up some dead spots, but I have an issue.
There are holes like pic related scattered in my backyard, but I'm not sure what they are from. I poured some water out of the hose into one of them to see how far it went down and I didn't manage to overflow it.
I googled a little and I think they might be voles or something. I had a problem with burrowing wasps last year but I don't think this is them. I was wondering if somebody...
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Hmmmmmmmmmm strange, dank, deep, and dark holes you say?

Stick your dick in it.
>>
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another pic

>>1003331
maybe another time
>>
Would help if you mentioned which country.

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hello /diy/
im trying to make leather pouch, but well, i dont know

should i cut it to make better shape or just take circle and cut holes around?
or in best case, do any of you have pettern icould use? please :)

also, what thread for stitching would you suggest my to use? same thin rope or go and buy something leather origin?
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>>1003238
Synthetic sinew is great for sewing leather.

For leather pattern, it's really straight forward. You can either just cut a large circle and use some leather cord to synch it up, or get more elaborate and cut/sew the leather.
Your call, what's the end goal? How much effort do you want to put into it?
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>>1003323
cinch not synch
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>>1003238
A few tips for you to save you some hassle in stitching and various other things. I don't know what your experience level is, so no insult intended if this is painfully obvious.
* Lay out the placement of your holes beforehand, then use an awl (or roofing nail) to pre-punch them.

*Since you'll need to flip the pouch inside out after sewing, definitely make sure to make the opening is a little larger than you think it needs to be. Leather can be a bitch to try and reverse in this way.

*Synthetic...
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Didn't see anywhere else appropriate, so here we are.

Pic related is louder than God's revolver, and I have hella sensitive ears. I already have tinnitus from being in HS marching band, and the ENT I go to says I gotta stop wearing earplugs.
So that leaves me with over-ear style stuff.
I'm currently using some 20 dollar 3M ones, the red ones you see everywhere, but they only have a 21db noise reduction, which apparently isn't enough.
Anyone have any suggestions? Cost isn't really an issue, it's going on my tool bill.
13 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
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Also open to ear plugs suggestions, really. ENT said not to put anything bigger than your elbow on tour ear but he can fuck himself.
>>
2 seconds on google

www.radioindustries.com.au/sensear-sm-advanced-earmuff-over-the-head.html?gclid=CN2hlPTFis0CFQGbvQodljwO9A

28db nrr. That's massive
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>>1002959
double up, plugs and exterior ear wear.

A couple notes:
1. if your leaving your mouth open, you can damage your hearing because of the Eustachian tube and thin skin and membrane near your auditory system
2. Outer ear wear should cup the bone that sticks out of your skull slightly behind your ear. I forget its name right now, but it can transfer sound into your inner ear and cause damage. They even make some hearing aids that are drilled into this bone, because of its harmonic abilities to transfer noise...
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My family owns a pc repair shop and someone dropped off a dead Korean monitor. 2560x1600 resolution, 30 inch. I cracked it open to try and fix it, and after a while I finally found what appears to be a blown resistor?

I'm looking for a heatgun so I can replace it, but I have no idea what the value of the resistor is.
Beside it, it says 24v 403, I'm assuming that means it's 24 volts, and that 403 is the identifier for the resistance of the resistor?

Pic related, thanks in advance for any help.
45 replies and 14 images submitted. Click here to view.
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>>1002714
Here's a pic with a torch instead of flash, it looks clearer but has shadows.
>>
>>1002715
That looks like an inductor not a resistor(note the L403). Also usually resistors in SMD packages have their resistance printed on top. The best thing to do right now is to find a service manual that actually has a schematic in it and find the exact value of this part. Failing that you could remove it and measure but if it has really blown you won't get something meaningful.
>>
>>1002714
Since it's L403, it's much more likely a ferrite bead.
Ferrite beads generally have no markings, but the replacement isn't probably critical and even a piece of wire is likely to work (even if it won't fulfill the legal requirements for emissions).

The thing is that ferrite beads do not fail on their own. You either have a short circuit downstream or the stuff before the bead is fucked.

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does anyone here know some FANUC or have experience with CNCsimulator that can help me troubleshoot problems with a program?
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>>1002564
There's a lot of cnc people here, stick around though they tend to have jobs and not post until the weekend
>>
post your fanuc issues
>>
>>1002564
What's up?

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How do I keep motivated? I have done the electrical, insulation, tore our and redid the kitchen, plumbing, but this fucking drywall is killing me. It's my first time and after my first total retarded wall it isnt nearly as bad, but it takes so fucking long and then you have to sand and sand I just want to fucking leave it.

Holy shit I am never doing this again.
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Just think about the money you're saving and the result in the awesome.
>>
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>>1001832

God I guess. Looking at what people charge for this its crazy. The kitchen actually almost looks decent, but I have to do the flooring still, but trying to get all the walls done before I bother with floor and trim because of this little shit.

Trying to build a fucking 400 liner foot fence at the same time as well. Holy shit its like so many projects I just want to shitpost and relax a while ;w;
>>
I'm in the same boat, replacing old shitty plasterboard and wood sheating. I have a few shit spots and have to take my time in some areas with cardboard shims and a 12 pack. It looks to me like you're doing too many cuts and need to just slow down and fill larger areas as you're going to have to do a shitload of taping as such.

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Hey guys,

I'm making a coil gun. I plan to start with two stages powered with capacitors. Any tips for me? Where should i look for wire? (eurofag here)
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>>1001129
>eurofag here
DELET THRED
>>
>two stages powered with capacitors
timing will be a real pain.
>>
>>1001151
My plan is to use arduino and photoresistors or phototransistors placed in the middle of each coil. I think it should work.

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Any cheap isolation tips? Want to play drums in there, got acoustic insulation foam and was thinking of drywalling and acoustic caulking. Maybe 3 inch styrofoam on the outside and just put some stucco mud on it
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>its another rape dungeon thread
>>
>>999818
well technically the dungeon isn't underground yet so it's just a rape shed.
>>
Put the lotion in teh basket!

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Look, I don't give a shit if you won't buy anything that isn't branded "Snap-On" or "Festool" but one cannot deny there are some real gems lurking among the aisles at Harbor Freight for stupid cheap.

What are some things you've picked up from /diy/'s favorite store that represent solid performance/value?

I will start.
Their 8-piece HSS Windsor Design lathe tools are literally rebadged (highly regarded) PSI woodturning tool starting kit. Thought it's the same price as Amazon, you can combine it the 20% off coupon.

18ga...
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>>999493

3/8" Spot Weld Drill - works great, did at least 40 spot welds on a toyota, still sharp (only one side used too )


Carbide Drill Assortment - resharpened pcb bits, work great as long as you get the sizes you need.
>>
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>>999493
>>
HF airless paint sprayer: worked perfectly, everything was serviable, painted my whole house in like 3 hrs. 260$ bux?
Electric pole saw: works perfectly.80$ Don't even need my gas chainsaw anymore.
Most of their quick grip style and assorted clamps work just fine as well.
50$ dado stack
2$ 100 security bit set
Also, their chisels and other misc. woodworking tools are cheap as fuck and you can't go wrong.

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Hey /diy/.

I need some tips on how to scavage this piece of tree trunk, that is still hatched to the ground bu it's roots.

The tree is a "Agave Americana" (i'll post a pic in a bit) that someone cut to make a didgeridoo. I had the idea to use this leftover piece to make a resonance box for a stringed instrument. But turns out that trees aren't very easy to pull off the ground... Although I can get it to wiggle quite a bit.

Any tips? I don't really have a machete that I can use... I do have a saw though.
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*scavenge

Here's a closer look. Sorry, the pics were taken in a bit of a rush.

Also I should mention that electric tools that produce a lot of noise are out of question.
>>
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Here's what the trees look like fully grown.
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Tie it with a towing strap and rip it out of the ground. This is your only option if you can't use power tools (the fuck?).

Where I can find the the same system of a knife switch ( pic related ) but has a potentiometer ( for speed control )
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>>1004596
>Where I can find the the same system of a knife switch ( pic related ) but has a potentiometer ( for speed control )
You won't find any potentiometer that can handle 30 amps. Potentiometers are low-watt devices (usually <2 watts or so, most are less than half a watt) that you apply a low voltage to, and then you use that low voltage or current output to control a power-dividing circuit.

You could use a rheostat.
A rheostat works just like a potentiometer (it's...
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>>1004596

it's called a chadburn

and you shouldn't switch engine power directly with a potentiometer. use the potentiometer to control the power circuit.
>>
>>1004640
A Chadburn is a signalling device, not a control device, and not a potentiometer. The linked article constrasts an EOT with a remote throttle.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_order_telegraph#Compared_to_remote_control_throttle

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Okay /diy/, longtime reader, first time poster. First of all, forgive my non-standard MS Paint wiring diagram. I've been Googling my ass off to learn about how to make circuits, and I feel like I've learned just enough to get myself hurt or damage my car, so I'm coming to you to check my work and tell me how wrong I am.

I want to add ambient footwell lighting to my car. I have four LED strips that I will wire in parallel. Each has 15 LEDs, for a total of 60--I'm not sure if they're 5050 or 3528, but the difference shouldn't be important....
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In case the wiring diagram doesn't make it clear, I'm accomplishing the "always on" by running the negative side of the switch's "On" output straight to ground, bypassing the factory dome switch. When I do this, if I want the lights dimmer, I know I need to give them less current, so what kind of resistor do I need to put in to accomplish this? I figured a 10 Ohm resistor would add 10 Ohms of resistance, effectively doubling the resistance of the circuit by my figuring, and therefore making the lights half as bright.

I know only enough...
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I'll be bumping with cute animals and additional questions. Stuff like: Is parallel the way to go for connecting the strips together? I've heard LEDs actually cause a voltage drop, so I figured wiring them in series would make them progressively dimmer and not matching.

I'll also add that I have a multimeter, and only a very rudimentary knowledge of how to use it.
>>
i cant says YES or NO coz the switch is a mystery. you need to redraw it with a standard notation so we can tell what connects to what inside the switch. use either the left or right representation in the pic provided. personally i prefer the right coz you can follow the current flow, instead of it being a black box.

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