Why are non-steel bikes so disgusting to look at?
memes
i have an old reynolds frame and it has a dent under one of the top cable guides
is there a way to remove it? pulling it out somehow? dont know if the cable guide will hold the upwards force..
pic related a cable guide, but without a dent
>>959113
Because you're a filthy hipster.
Is making a really, really high quality wooden bow a feasible one-off project for diyer who has access to a fully-equipped woodshop?
>>958373
After you've tried and failed at it a few times, sure. You will not get it perfect the first try. It is a decent project to work at though. Good luck.
>>958374
I've made a hand-cut dovetail box of decent fit and finish on my first try. So while I have some degree of patience and decent ability to read instructions a bow may be one of those things where it's too reliant on past experience and 'feel' to make it worthwhile if you aren't going to make this a passion of some sort.
So yes, if someone could confirm this, I'll just drop the thought and start saving my pennies instead.
worrying about something not being really, really high quality the first time you try it, isn't going to get you anywhere
if you want to do it for the fun and skills in making one, then do it....if you're expecting to go running through the woods to hunt other humans, I'd suggest getting one from people who have experience making them
Hey /diy/. I have always been a toe-walker, and for anyone who doesn't know, this can actually cause some pretty serious structural problems in your body if it goes on too long. Although I am not even out of collage yet, I am already noticing some minor issues. I am physically able to walk flat footed, but unless I am continuously thinking about it I automatically revert to walking on my toes. So I had this idea that I could build a device that will detect when I start toe walking and alert me. What I have developed is arduino based. There are three inputs. a button on the toe, the heel, and a third button that is used to report statistics. outputs include a piezo buzzer and an lcd display. In the program, there is a counter called toeCount that increments every time the toe button is pressed and decrements every time the heel button is pressed. if toeCount ever rises above 3, piezo beeps briefly, toeCount is set to 0, and toeLog increments. A variable called stepCount is incremented every time the toe button is pressed. when the third button is pressed, it turns the lcd display on and reports the value of stepCount and toeLog.
(Note that the toe and heel buttons are actually set up to detect state change, not just checking to see if the pin is high. This prevents massive increase in stepCount while standing still, as well as a few other related problems.)
The programing works, and I have successfully tested a mock-up in hardware, which also works. the only thing I have left to figure out is the buttons for the toe and heel. regular pushbuttons are not going to work because I have to stand on them. drilling holes in my shoes to make room for them is also not desirable. I recently came up with the idea of using something like the rubberized switches in calculators, but I have NO idea what it is called, and therefor have no idea what to search for to buy.
>>tl;dr: what is the button in pic related called?
membrane switch, but I don't think it'll work
Put these on the tip of your inner sole and I guarantee you'll never walk on your toes again.
>>962398
Google Force Sensitive Resistor (FSR). Basically a more linear version of the buttons in OP photo. Cheap, available in a bunch of sizes, and thin so it fits in shoes.
It is I, that autist with the cooling vest, and I have returned with another one of my projects which I briefly touched on in the previous thread.
A peltier cooled vacuum gauntlet.
At the moment I'm still nailing down the concept, but here's what's on the whiteboard at the moment.
Here's the earlier concept I posted in the last thread.
And some rough electrical diagrams.
I have a friend with a CNC milling machine which I can use for the aluminum blocks. Likely it will be controlled by ardurino.
The physical parts will be constructed first and tested with external power/control before I attempt to build the portable power and control circuitry.
>>962807
I wasn't in the old thread but imho the fans look a little silly, mind telling me why someone would actually require such a device?
I think it would be of use if you could measure the entire body temperature and it automatically adjusts the temperature for the hands, for example if you get cold hands because you are anxious of an exam or something like that it would warm them up?!
Does anyone know how to removed this?
Thanks!
>>964856
there is a screw... screw driver
>>964860
There is no screw
>>964856
Hammer, and a bit of dap filler
so i want to build a hearing aid, since i can't use discrete parts (transistors, resistors, condonsators) for obvious size reasons.
what are the ICs i could use ?.
1.5V is my current.
thank you
>>964828
>condonsators
>1.5V is my current.
move along, nothing to see
>>964830
>you must be a native english speaker or i'll make fun of you
drop dead, kid
>>964828
Eastern bloc electronics.inc trying to steal muh 'murrican patents again?
Use an LM328 minimum voltage is 3V so use w 2, 1.5V cells
Those things run with 2 in series just so you know.
Alternatively you could build one off a decently biased transistor
And add an in ear headphone to the output and a mic to the input.
How can I make a chocolate melanger?
>>963039
Jam a mixing paddle on the end of a corded drill.
>>963044
The drill motor rotates way too fast. it should rotate about 1 cycle per second
>>963046
So throttle it.
Jesus christ, you're not even trying. This is /diy/, not /handholding/
Took it out
Filled it in
Got a drill
Made a bigger hole
I have a chance to buy a Tektronix 502A oscilloscope from the 60s (seller doesnt know if it works or not) ,I like it partly cause I like old vacuum tube devices, already restored a tube radio and couple of tv-s.
there are surely some scope guys here
Now is the Tektronix 502A any good, I would be using it mainly on vaccum tube stuff and maybe some signal generators and a bit of the modern stuff
,Would it be good for TUBE amplifiers ??
I cant find decent information on it, like watis maximum input voltage and such
How much would you be paying for it?
Because like, as far as scopes go, you can probably do a lot better.
>>958654
he has it advertised for about 70 $,but I think I could lower it down a bit maybe close to 50$
If you can't find its input voltage, then you can't manage to find its schematics and calibration instructions. Get something else.
So I live in U.S. Growing Zone 5, and have an old wrought iron "decorative" fence with spacing about a spread hands wide. My dogs are not fans of the neighbors and I'm trying to find a kind of ivy that will grow up and cover the fencing, thickly like the picture, at least for spring - fall (kids are not out in the winter as much). I've checked several gardening stores nearby but get the stereotypical 17 year old "Um......" every time. Had a problem when I bought the place a few years ago with ivy growing out into the yard, so if one is available, preferably only one that grows up and out and not really across the ground.
-I know next to nothing about ivy
>>963345
Don't do it OP. Ivy is the devil. Plant anything but ivy.
>>963345
>wrought iron fence
dont grow anything on it. plants get heavy. they will pull the fence over. fences arn't built to hold any kind of load.
>>963372
neither was yer mum but that doesn't seem to matter
Hey anons,
So I'm going to build a solar oven as part of a project for this Summer. I'd love to know if any of you have any experience building them?
Unfortunately I have an additional caveat in its design which is that it must be transportable and not to heavy (as I need to fly with it)
I'm thinking:
- Get a large (golf?) umbrella. Remove the handle section, leaving just the ribbed mechanism for opening the umbrella.
- Using the geometry of the umbrella as a template, I can cut out 'petals' of reflective material, which I can then attach between each rib.
- Was thinking of using silver mylar on the roll (20m x 1.2m wide for £25 on the bay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silver-Mylar-Reflective-Mirror-Foil-Sheet-Sheeting-20M-Roll-Party-Gift-Wrap-/131701785611?hash=item1eaa09c40b:g:oWcAAOSwFqJWl83w)
Either attach the mylar by adhesive (when on site), or if I can I can bolt it on with small wingnuts which'd allow me to deconstruct it without tearing it apart.
I guess my questions come down to:
- Does the above make sense and do you think it'll work?
- Is Mylar sheeting gonna be good enough? Can anyone suggest a better alternative for this application?
- Is the geometry of an umbrella going to be appropriate to focus the solar energy to the centre point?
I'm going to be using it in desert conditions, average highs of 28-34C, and I intend to use it to make bread. I'm optimistic about reaching 180C, not sure if I can push 230C
I own an IR thermometer and will probably test it here at home (mild summer temps) to see how it might fare.
Here's a good image of what I'm planning, more or less.
>>963259
And heres the image of the umbrella I was looking for.
Crucially it is:
Parabolic in shape
Large - good minimum is 120cm
Has a lot of ribs - apparently you want over 16 to ensure smooth transitions/curves
>>963257
I've made several styles (Fresnel lens, Funnel, Panel, Parabolic, Box, Collapsible, Mylar blanket, etc.) My personal favorite has been a standard insulated box cooker with 4 trapezoid-shaped reflectors. However, the one I use for cooking bread loafs and big meals is rather large, heavy, and required attaching wheels to move it around.
Parabolic cookers are very fussy. You have to get the cooking vessel right in the focal point at all times. This requires lots of babysitting. You will need to adjust the alignment with the sun once every 15-20 minutes for optimal cooking temperatures. They are also hindered by ambient temperatures and wind. They also need cloudless skies to work even remotely well.
Funnel and Panel cookers (like the one in this image and the one in your image) are easier to use and require much less babysitting. They are also less hindered by ambient temperatures since they use a wind break. The cooking vessel is inside the wind break. The on in your image has 2 containers. A clear outer wind break and a black inner cooking vessel. These are "ok" for semi-cloudy skies.
Insulated Box cookers, while bulkier are the easiest to use. You don't need to align them as much (same amount as funnel/panel cookers) and they work in fairly overcast skies (better than funnel/panel cookers). Well-insulated, doubled-glazed ones work in the dead of winter at -10F without trouble.
so I am trying to set up a business selling grainspawn bags. I can do small runs of like two bags at a time in my cheap 9L pressure cooker. each batch takes about 3 hours of work. now to move up in production capacity, I need a larger pressure vessel. the all american pressure cookers cost about 1000$ to get shipped to australia. and they're about 40quarts at the biggest. so I could run like 5 of them at a time but that's a really expensive way to do it. is there a way that I could make a pressure vessel of my own that could stand up to at least 15psi repeatedly and be at least 100L?
I was thinking about just using a wide diameter piece of pressure pipe with flanges and drilling in a hose to connect to a boiler to introduce steam under pressure.
the thing is that making up 100 bags would take about an extra half hour to the 3 hour production run for what I get from about 4L of hydrated grain which is all I can safely fit in bags in my current pressure cooker.
I suggest you check with a fabrication shop about making a custom vessel. Also look for industrial vessel designs to copy.
Visit welding and machinist forums to find someone local who might want the job.
You should study commercial units and CAD up what you want.
>>962288
actually i just found this on roger rabbits comercial webpage.
http://www.mushroomvideos.com/55-Gallon-Drum-Sterilizer
apparently he just cooks his grain at 2psi for 8 hours.
a modified gas tank could do it. maybe the ones they use for propane, you'd have to cut it open and find a way to open and seal it at will though
/diy/, how is ac mains polarized??? i mean, i just don't get the concept... the polarity changes like 60 times in a second, what's the point of having a hot and a neutral wire, and how are polarized sockets (like bulb sockets) any safer than anything else? i don't
pic relativity unknown...
>>961664
>the polarity changes like 60 times in a second
120 times for 60 cycles per second
>what's the point of having a hot and a neutral wire
The electrons have to go/come from somewhere.
>how are polarized sockets (like bulb sockets) any safer than anything else
Outside is grounded (no charge), inside is electrified and will shock you.
> i don't
I should always be capitalized
>>961670
>>what's the point of having a hot and a neutral wire
>The electrons have to go/come from somewhere.
but they go both ways in both wires, what's the point in marking any wire differently?
I still don't
(better?)
>>961664
neutral is bonded to earth so there's no volts to zap you there.
then if you make sure your switches are on the hot side (ie. with a polarised socket) you can fingerfuck a switched-off device with no fear of electrification.
My indicator says that the part is centered but when I start to drill the hole I can visually see that it's not centered.
Does small angle approximation really matter that much? The indicator is slightly off to the side thanks to shitty mounting system, it should still center right?
>>961539
>my mounts are not centred
>it doesnt drill straight
>>961560
Do you actually know anything about machining and geometry or are you just fucking around?
>>961567
nothing at all.
but it's a basic checklist that someone with absolutely no experience with machining can follow and understand.
if it's drilling off centre and the tool you are using to measure allignment says it is then there is a problem with either the instrument or your ability to use said instrument.
it could also be a problem like how the tooling and object is held. a worn bearing for example will cause either to slap around. check for play.
Good news everyone!
My DIY Invisalign project is almost over, and it's worked quite well. Maybe some of you guys remember this from last summer.
I'll post the old photos, as well as my new straighter teeth.
Here's where they are now. There's two aligners left to go in the original set I made.
I'm considering taking a new mold and re-scanning it to make some minor course correction adjustments. Not sure if I'm gonna do that yet, I'm pretty happy where they ended up.
>>960579
Im sitting here wondering why a picture of teeth and the tripfag name "ortho ao2quw3589rjudoa" looked so familiar..
Congratulations on it actually working, inb4 teeth fall out.
I remember your thread up for ages but unfortunately I didn't follow it. I look forward to seeing the before and after pictures.
>>960579
Thats not how timestamps work
Looks like it worked out well enough for you though.
