Looking for a design to build a AC magnet which can attract ferrous metals? Has anyone built one of these?
I am pretty sure that you can't out of an alternating current. It is the "one direction" voltage that dc had that makes the ferrous molecules in metal to align and become magnetic. So you'd need to change the ac to dc by using a converter like a wall adapter for electronics.
>>963120
http://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/19916/using-a-c-or-d-c-to-create-an-electromagnet
>>963122
Oh, would you look at that... I had no idea you could use AC for that.
So I am putting together a computer myself for the first time, and after I got all the parts in, the machine will power on, the fans kick in, but it beeps twice and nothing appears onscreen. I've heard that it could be memory issues and such, but I've removed and re-added the RAM, still beeps, but now with one short and a short time later what sounds like 3 very rapid beeps. What do?
>MOBO - Asus M5A78L-M/USB3
>RAM - Crucial Ballistix DDR3-1600
>GPU - GTX 960
>PSU - EVGA 80 Bronze 600W
>Pic not my pc
Consult your motherboard manual.
It's not telling me anything that's helpful...nothing about the beep codes or any of that.
First reseat your RAM. Then just try one stick at a time and see if it boots that way.
If that still doesn't work, make sure you're providing enough power to your graphics card (all power cables are plugged in) and it's seated properly.
Then try to take out the graphics card and see if it'll boot from on board graphics.
Okay so I got these turning tools and I need to turn handles to so I can turn with my turning tools.
What do you think of the following idea:
As you can see, turning tools with wood handles have ferrules to prevent the wood fibers at the end of the handle from splitting apart.
But I don't want to buy ferrules.
But what if I used fishing line or maybe even just twine coated in epoxy and wrapped it tight around the end in lieu of a metal ferrule? I am quite certain that fishing line is stronger than steel of equivalent thickness, and wrapped tight with epoxy would form a composite not unlike carbon fiber or some other ultra strong modern material.
And plus this would make it easy to turn the 'ferrule' portion of the handle, as it eliminates the task of precisely turning the tenon to the exact thickness of the interior diameter of a metal ferrule.
Thoughts?
>>962973
If you don't turn your turning handles with the turning tools that they will go on then you've failed.
So I found the "mini metal foundry" on indestructables and elsewhere I see guides for similar foundrys. Now they all say to use a 10 quart steel pail. Now most of them say a galvanized steel pail is fine. I guess since it's insulated with the plaster and play sand the pail itself never gets hot enough? Because I know galvanized steel will fuck your shit right up if it gets hot enough with the fumes.
Anyone have any opinions on this?
I made one with a galvanized steel bucket. The outside definitely gets too hot to hold bare handed, but it barely discolors. Definitely not enough to release enough fumes to fuck your shit up.
>>962959
excellent, good to know. DO you know how stainless steel would do? I'm not sure at what temp it gets all fucky with chromium fumes. I have an old industrial coffee thermos I was thinking about using.
>>962961
Pic related
Got steel siding over wood siding right now. House is 100 years old in North Dakota.
Due to various moving of windows and other nonsense, the steel siding that is 30 years old, cannot be repaired, so just needs to be replaced.
I am going to replace it with vinyl.
Should I remove the steel and wood siding first?
All and all it can't be more than 2" of siding I'd be going through.
People put 2" of polystyrene under siding right? So its not like the nails will be too far out from the sheething to the siding, plus they aren't sitting in polystyrene, they are sitting in steel and wood.
thoughts?
>>962804
Just use longer (than recommended) nails and get them STEEL and GALVANIZED (its worth it);
Did something similar with 30+ years old shed and it's all good since.
BUT its a sloppy job to be done. If you have the time and money, do a proper job, by first removing the old one and THEN applying the new one.
Just my thoughts on it..
Take the steel siding off then decide what you want to do
Idk what I'm talking about tho
I would take it down to the osb/plywood before installing the vinyl. Vinyl isn't difficult of complicated, but it can be screwed up, so why not make it easier on your self? Also, vinyl isn't water proof, so whatever goes underneath needs to be a vapour barrier like tyvek. Wind blown rain can penetrate vinyl., and if you don't have the barrier it whatever is there might not dry out for months.
Not to sure what tiles this is.
All i know is clay related....
>>962781
get a bunch of termites and put them to work on that
>>962781
It's very similar and probably asbestos.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?biw=1600&bih=755&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=armstrong+asbestos+tiles+cayuga+red&oq=armstrong+asbestos+tiles+cayuga+red&gs_l=img.3...15090.17492.0.17598.11.11.0.0.0.0.108.1020.1j9.10.0....0...1c.1.64.img..1.0.0.RWUOwXy2g_w
>>962781
Measure the tile.
It looks like 12"
If it is 12" it is a modern standard VCT tile, no asbestos.
About 1 cup of vinegar in a gallon of hot water and scrub that stain with #0000 steel wool
Stain, gone.
Reapply a liquid wax suitable for VCT tiles.
I'm figuring out if I could build a Raspberry pi portable of my own and I need a little help with the screen.
I was planning on using GPIO pins for the controller, so I don't have to fit a USB controller's board in there. This means I most likely have to use the HDMI port for the screen.
The question is, how to power it all up? Can I get power through the GPIO ports or should I solder them paraller to the load port of the charger?
I'm using Pi Model A+ (because of analog audio)
Most likely this screen: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2016-NEW-5-inch-Resistive-Touch-Screen-LCD-Display-HDMI-for-Raspberry-Pi-XPT2046-/262248667916
2200mAh Lithium battery and this charger: https://www.adafruit.com/products/259
>>962745
Thinking of Pi laptop thing, getting a little crazy with conflicting goals. Anyway my digging gave me this, should be helpful to you.
https://learn.adafruit.com/pigrrl-2
https://youtu.be/xzfvlyLVFtw
if you dig around more, I think they have an older version for your specific model.
>>962790
>pi girl
>pigrrl
>pig grill
go away, no cucks allowed!
coming here with raspberry pi bullshit is one thing, but trying to make a knockoff gameboy and putting a feminist spin on it is crossing the line.
>>962745
>I was planning on using GPIO pins for the controller, so I don't have to fit a USB controller's board in there. This means I most likely have to use the HDMI port for the screen.
Why are you trying to make this difficult? The screen fits right on the Pi, and running a game board through the GPIOs is a mess.
>The question is, how to power it all up? Can I get power through the GPIO ports or should I solder them paraller to the load port of the charger?
What kind of controller are you picturing here?
>I'm using Pi Model A+ (because of analog audio)
Try and read the data sheet. All Pi models have the same low quality analog audio out as well as HDMI and the option to connect a USB D/A converter. The only exception is the Rev. 1 boards and they're no good. The only reason for a Pi 1 is power, it uses less than half of what the Pi 3 uses.
I've never built anything before, but I made a cookie tin guitar last night. I sanded and sprayed polyurethane on the neck a few hours ago, do I really have to wait 72 hours for it to dry? If it makes any difference I don't care if it looks nice, I just don't want splinters. pic isn't mine
>>962715
You won't get splinters. You'll get goo. 24 hrs should be enough to handle unless it's cvold ort humid. Use lacquer next time. Dry in 30 min.
I've built several of these btw.
My drill is sent away for repair I've tried using a friends drill but it's a 20$ cordless with no grunt I noticed these mini chucks for impact guns are they worth it?
Op here it's not for everyday use but figured if I bought it It might be handy for those jobs that require 2 drill bits
How much you paying op?
Meh. Sure they'll hold normal bits but it's still relying on the 1/4" hex quick change which even on the best of impact drivers still has tons of wobble. As long as you don't need precision it'll be fine.
English is not my first language but I hope I can still explain this coherently.
I need to build a contraption that is fully mechanical and takes its main power from a clockwork crank thing.
There are five pushable levers (1-5) in the machine and five stepper gears (a-e).
The problem here is that I need to have the gears respond to switches being pressed. If this was an electric project I'd use a battery and slap in a few AND gates and call it a day, but this thing's different.
When switch 1 or 5 is pushed, the gears A and E step.
When switch 2 or 4 is pushed, the gears A, B, D and E step.
When switch 3 is pushed, ALL gears step.
I can only use the crankable big spring gear for power, but besides that there's no limits. I also have a technically unlimited parts budget because all the machinery parts will be 3D printed to fit exactly these needs. I just want to know if there's some simple logic to this I'm missing.
If you guys know any super-versatile gear/mechanical shit physics simulators too, let me know.
>>962629
Maybe try going to a forum dedicated to mechanical computers... they used them in aircraft and ships in the 1940's during the war, there's people dedicated to restoring these machines. im sure they could help you out.
That should be easy enough. Just make buttons that increment or "step" or whatever wide enough to accept all cams connected to levers. Make weirdass cams (with like 4-5 branches to press them all at once) that press proper buttons. Profit?
>>962629
We're not here to do your homework for you.
Hey guys and gals, im trying to make money off creating things from scrap or other cheap materials, i have some experience in wood and metal work so any inexpensive profitable diy ideas out there? Can afford to spend a couple of hundred to expenses, + bonus points for profitable fish breeding diy
>>962614
When everyone can make money from it no one can make money from it.
There are no suggestions on how to make worthwhile money from scrap materials other than fill a niche someone hasn't already.
>>962614
Your best bet is probably hipster rustic furniture.
Not trying to make much just sumthing worth wasting my time on that helps contribute to my holiday in a couple of months, my partner was thinking rustic
So there's water leaking out the front of my freezer door--not from inside, but from behind the paint. What should I do here?
>>962591
Do you have a front door water thing?
>>962593
Yes!
>>962593
Are there any more details that I can provide that might help determine the root issue?
I need to replace a few body panels on my project car, I want to do this legitimately and not fiberglass and epoxy halfassing.
All the panels are fairly thin steel, body panels are slightly thicker than 18 gauge steel.
I've been looking at 115v units as I don't have a bunch of money to spend on it, there is nothing on the car a 120v unit couldn't do, and I have no access to a 240v outlet.
So far looking at the Millermatic 141, around $800. I've heard hobart and lincoln are also good, but most of them in this price range have a voltage selection switch that has 4 or 5 setting instead of an adjustable output like the Millers do.
Any other suggestions or should I start saving for the Miller 141?
I won't be using flux core, I'll probably buy a small-ish gas bottle. I need to replace both front quarter panels and fix a few rusty spots.
Yes a smal 120v with argon gas.
You want to use as little heat as possible to keep the metal from warping. Spot welding
Youtube how to put on quarter panels.
>>962566
The Hobart is identical to the mm 141, other than ththat fact the Miller has infinite variable dials and the Hobart has taps. Do not use straight argon. Use 75 25 other wise known as c25. Buy the Hobart 140 and don't look back.
>>962570
Thanks, I've been watching and reading a lot. Sounds like lots of tack welds and stitching to reduce warping.
The front panels are held on with a buttload of spot welds from the factory, I'm going to start drilling them out this weekend.
There are a few areas that I would have to go slowly and stitch a little at a time.
My apartment enters directly into my kitchen and it's a mess, so I'm looking to build something to offer some storage space for hatts, mitts, etc as well as some hooks for hanging up coats. I want this to be something that will last and look somewhat decent, but I'm a noob with wood. Only thing I've ever really built was a cat tree out of 2x4's, some plywood and carpet scraps.
Dimensions aren't set in stone, something like 44" wide, 10" deep (not counting the backing) and ~20-22" tall (cubbies about half that).
Where I'm getting lost is with what type of wood to use.. I'm trying to keep the cost down, but don't want it to look like shit. I'd prefer to stain it rather than paint it. I know this is probably dumb to expect to do on the cheap.
Dressed wood seems like it only comes up to maybe 10-12" wide. One local place has 11 1/4" poplar for $4.94/ft, or about $100 for the whole thing, but I'd have to do the back in two pieces. Do I just glue two pieces together to make one big piece? Thought about using plywood, but it would be a different wood than the rest, so it wouldn't look the same.
Other option is some pre-laminated 3/4" pine boards from home depot that come up to 20" wide, which can cover the full size of the back piece with some minor adjustments to the plans. Cost would be $85 CAD before tax.
Any suggestions/tips about this? I'm in the Toronto area if you know anywhere good to get the wood.
You could build the whole thing out of plywood and run edge banding to cover up the edges. Build the sides out of solid wood and the just the back part with ply or luan.
Really though, just go find something on ana white's site and just follow along or pick up a premade rack. Any of your craft stores up there should have a stain ready wood one for ~$10-$15 USD.
>>962538
EWW buttjoints. and you're worried about it looking like crap? I mean, not even mitered buttjoints?! also those shelves aren't really gonna hold any real weight safely due to the buttjoints.
What kind of power tools you got? router? datostack?
also I know you're a Canadian and you all do/say things differently. but when you say 44 inches wide, you mean long?..
Post what tools ya got, and maybe a DL link to that sketchup file in your OP, the sizes of the cheapest wood you can get yourself without being plywood. and I can help ya out a bit from a woodworking standpoint.
>pic related, just finished this and saved everything and started browsing /diy/ when I saw this thread.
pine?
So a friend of mine is starting this little creative candle store thing, and we can't think of a good name, and we were wondering if you had any ideas
>>962535
this is not \adv\. Stop shitting up the only good board with inane questions.
No one cares, your idea is garbage.
But here's a name for you "dumbass candle company" your motto can be
"we are faggots who sell fruity candles"
good luck
>>962535
Waxy Willys
