>>944281 >a defrost board Brother, shit is much easier when you hear contactors clackin'. I don't do HVAC, but if they clackin and power ain't crackin you got issues. I much prefer 'mechanical' designs over logic boards. One bad relay and the whole board is done for.
>>944286 I see your point as far as the satisfying sound of an electro-mechanical switch closing, but being easier and quicker to troubleshoot is nice. Although when a customer doesn't want to buy the board, I'll know how to bypass it.
Starting a new project with some friends, looking for a new recipe or two for our favorite type of propellant. So far we have used potassium nitrate + sugar to get a nice burn but we need something more efficient. Thanks in advance.
Final note; I have no idea what the source of this information is. its the internet; information is spread and altered. its out there [i just ripped this off a webpage desu] so fuck everyone who's about to cry about me posting it.
Friend just bought a house and is renting out his detached garage to me and another person for mega cheap.
We're aware of the temperature issues that most garages come with, so I'm curious if anyone's ever lived in one for a period of time and has some solid ideas as to fixing it up.
It's actually really nice, though we're having an electrician come in to check up on the wiring and amperage etc. We overloaded a wall socket already just trying out a space heater we planned to use sparingly.
>>944532 how much does your friend want to spend fixing it up? you could install a whirly bird for the summer heat. other than this I doubt he's going to want to dump a few thousand into insulating it.
add some of these with the whirly bird so you get some air flow in the summer. Vents in the door are going to be much cheaper than trying to add a window. Winter, yeah, you need insulation and it's going to be pricey. You're going to have probably only one line of 20 amps to the garage, so I wouldn't count on being able to run a fair sized heater along with anything else. Get an indoor certified propane/kerosene heater. the indoor ones shut off if they... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I bought a foreclosed home and I had an inspector come out and he said I needed a hand rail on my deck steps. I guess he was being real cool by not mentioning the 10*10 feet of missing floor boards and the entire railing.
Basically the understructure is in decent shape and I would just be laying down the floor and railings. I didn't know if anyone first hand could say is was worth the extra expenses for the composite lumber?? I know its not suppose to rot but like if I walk outside and bust my ass on it when it's wet the I would just use regular wood. I can't... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Dad got a composite deck. It's doing alright after like 10 years. My brother was in charge and we didn't put enough supports under it. It flexes notably more on a hot day than a cool one, but that's our fault for not putting enough support. Amateur hour so we probably didn't even have enough for a wooden deck, I don't think there's a documented support difference between wood and composite. The worst is the stairs, we only have three stringers for like a 4' wide stairs.
>>946137 Thanks. I'm not the type to go and waterseal my deck so I guess thats an advantage. >>946141 Yes I did just read that it needs more support underneath because it flexes more. If I had all new joists I can see where the cost does start to add up.
I recently started working with leather and sometimes i need to set a rivet or two. The thing is, when i put the rivet head on a wooden surface, it tends to deform when the pin strikes it from the inside and that looks nasty. How do i go about making a rivet set or something to put the rivet on while i strike it form the other side? As far as power tools go, i have a dremel and that's it. No easy access to a lathe.
I have this piece of pig iron from a blast furnace ground flat for tests, but i have no idea how to produce a spherical depression in that. If i cast the needed shape in two-part epoxy, would it have enough strength?
lets say i want to dig a soakaway for storm water, not poo water. soil is clay so doesn't drain well. dug a hole in the garden to just about 4 meters deep to get through the clay and it drains fine. popular method seems to be fill the hole with broken bricks and shit but this seriously reduces void area and draining capacity. i have seen milk crate type attenuation cells but wrapping in sheet and burying sounds like a bad idea, how long until it gets blocked? my personal preference is something like pic related. issue is cost, to get rings with holes drilled,... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>947342 i looked at twinwall from a few sources but for the rainfall/area/hole it needs to be over a meter diameter and made to order and very expensive. same with the stone infill, i know its common but it pushes the volume way up
>>947574 not really because i would have to dig the whole place to 3-4 meters to lay it under the clay and dig it all up again when it filled with silt.
>>946478 Toolboxes and shelves. I have about a half dozen old Kennedy cantilever toolboxes, a couple of machinist chests, several traditional toolboxes of various sizes and two roll arounds: a Kennedy and a Craftsman. Just about all of it is 40 years old or older. I have a wooden machinist chest that is WWI vintage.
The tool boxes are placed on standard shelves in my garage for easy access. If it doesn't fix in a box its either mounted on a tool or on a shelf/in a cabinet. Looks like a fucking antique tools store up in here.
I just bought a record player, hasn't been even half a year but I'm already having issues with it. It will no longer spin but the other function still works ( MP3 player) Does it have something to do with pic related? It right under the spindle.
I have a narrow asphalt driveway going to my house (a car and a half wide) I have three cars therefore I want a wider driveway Next to the driveway there's a hill that I can dig myself (with help) Is there anything else I can do to avoid being charged for anything else (beside actual paving) by the paving guys? I'll just take out the dirt to the level of the actual driveway + a few inches then use a compactor to get it to the same level Do I have to put any gravel or stone base? Will they try to convince me that they have to cover both the dirt and... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>945252 If you want it done properly you need to remove more dirt and put in a few layers to make a decent sub base. Google 'paving expert McCormack' for everything you didn't want to know about ground works. No need to lift what's there. I'd be more worried about laziness with the sub base leading to failure rather than them doing extra work
>tfw you're an american >tfw if you build your driveway to code it will outlast your house by 6 decades
What is the point of building your driveway to handle 60 years of semi truck traffic when your house is a paper machet and tooth pick construction rivaled in build quality by your daughters science fair project?
Specifically, I am tapping some stainless steel pipe to make a rifle barrel. Project is a homemade matchlock just to say I did, and fire once a year to feel proud of myself. I want to plug one end with a bolt (5/8), and was wondering what length of bolt would be required to achieve a 15,000-20,000 psi rating.
What caliber and what is the wall thickness? 1/2 to 5/8 should be plenty for black powder. cant speak or testify other than I assembled a BP rifle that I screwed in the breach plug loaded 150 grains of BP, 2 RLB, set a 30 second cannon fuse and ran for hell. Everything held together and have taken 3 deer and shot over 150 times with 50 grain load.
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