I just got my first multi-tool focused on EDC ( I've just begun learning about tools, fixing things, etc. ) and I'm wondering about your philosophy of use ( PoU ) regarding these types of tools. Clearly these are not made to replace a toolbox ( the one I got was designed for climbing/rigging and only cost about $40-ish, MSRP $60-ish ) and are only meant to handle small tasks but what sort of small jobs should I be looking to test my tool on and what should I be looking for to determine the tool's quality?
inb4 "shoulda bought a gerber/leatherman/victorinox... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
This is the best screwdriver for taking apart laptops ever, and I have no idea how to get more.
My father got it 10+ years ago from a hard drive manufacturer when he sent a drive in under warranty, but we can't find any equal to it. It's the perfect size for laptop screws, it's magnetic, got a good handle, and hasn't broken after a decade of very heavy use. Anyone know where we could find another one?
Since I see that people post about computers here, and this is also my first time on this board, could someone give me some experienced advice on this?
My computer used to run fine with Windows 7 before my brother decided to upgrade to Windows 10. I think this is to do with the system being 64 bits, and perhaps needing a more powerful processor to compensate the change.
Whenever I try to run games like sonic generations it tends to bit extremely laggy, and slowly deteriorates until the whole system crashes and blackscreens. This wasn't the case with win7... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>984588 You're probably running the fallback graphics driver, instead of the manufacturer one.
If your card isn't supported on Windows 10 (and most Windows 7 AMD/Nvidia cards aren't, because if they were there'd be no reason for you to have to buy another one), download the latest driver for an older Windows that is supported, and install it anyway. It'll complain, but it'll usually work.
I've got an 8" Zildjian A Custom Splash with some cracks a la pic related. I've been doing some research about how to repair the little buggers/keep them from spreading, but I wanted to hear what you guys would do in the situation.
Right now my plan will probably be to drill some very small holes at the ends of the cracks or perhaps braze them, though I've got some more research to do before then.
>>984458 Start by putting together ikea furniture. No kidding It will give you a basic understanding of how it all works. Than star doing small things, like a wooden spoon or a cutting board, just to get acustomed with the tools. Than jump to wooden boxes and such, and tha it's just a case of going big. Also, youtube. There are tons of tutorials.
How do you personally solder upside down copper joints? Of all soldering situations. I have found that soldering an upside down joint is one of the most technical. It's very do able in itself, but throw in an extremely awkward angle and flammable materials or a threaded adapter an inch below the joint and it can become a tough. I have seen upside joints the are overflowing with solder because the plumber wanted to be sure it was sealed. And I understand that because my upside down joints are often sloppy looking, even for a 1.5 year plumber. So how do y'all... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>984343 Clean pipes with copper pot scratcher. Apply flux. Fit things together. Blow torch as you tap the solder to the crack. As soon as it melts and starts to suck in the solder you push the solder wire in until solder is seen all the way around the pipe. Allow to cool.
The orientation of the fittings is irrelevant. Capillary action is what sucks the solder in. If it isn't going in, the pipe fittings are not hot enough or there's not enough flux.
>>984345 I was taught that you should push the solder in all the way, or most of the way, around the joint to get a seal. Do you get a proper seal from holding the solder at just one point on the joint? I have always thought it is very possible that way, but my teacher never did it that way.
Working on a zenith 10-s-669 but I'm having some problems. I recapped the radio and replaced some of the rotted wires but when I turn it on there is no sound. No static or stations. Just a slight electric hum from the speaker. Sometimes it motorboats when tuned to around 150. Anyone know what might be the problem or how to find out? Is it an oscillator, is the tuner too oxidized? All the tubes light up and get warm. Could it still be a weak tube? Someone help me out here, I'm new to this and kinda flustered
>>984322 Sounds like something wasn't put back. Maybe a coupling capacitor. Start checking all the ones you replaced, one by one, and make sure they are where they are supposed to be. The hum you hear is actually normal with tube radios.
>>984354 So it's most likely that I soldered a capacitor to the wrong connection? I'll check them all...after I learn how to read the damn schematic and decipher that rats nest of wires. Glad to hear it's probably not the tubes or anything like that. It couldn't be a resistor could it?
Please think about this question, /diy/.... the stupid one first.
Is there ANY way to actually can your own food in tins? No mason jars. I'm very fond of vacuum sealing with Mylar, but I've got no idea how to vacuum seal anything with liquids. I look at military MREs and think "hey, I could probably do that and get a much longer shelf life than 5 years". There are tons of foods that pretty much last forever anyways. Honey, salamis, properly cured meats, waxed cheese, hard tack, pemmican, freeze dried/dehydrated fruits and veggies, etc etc. But what's... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
So I made one of these and it seems to work when I touch the two metals together or when I complete the circuit with myself but when I ground the plate and have the other one touch me I'm not producing any static? Can someone tell me why is it due to the ground I've tried it on hardwood it didn't work and marble doesn't either
>>984225 electricity is a potential difference if the ioniser is trying to develop a charge as a potential between ground and the high voltage side and you are shorting the two out then no charge is going to be able to accumulate
Yep, remove the varnish on tracks next to the holes, then insert the component (a slightly more than normal) and bend the thru-hole pins next to the tracks. Then just solder the pins directly on the tracks.
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