Without seeing the other end of the cables there is nothing we can do for you. The easiest way to check this shit would be with a multimeter. But I'm assuming you either don't have one or have no idea how to use it.
Anyone bought one of these harbor freight sawmill? Not trying to start a hb debate thread. I have some products from them that I'm happy with and vice versa. I have a 60' oak I'm taking down in my yard and want to mill it. A locally guy said he could slice it up for me for $600. I was thinking of dropping another $1400 for the actual mill myself and then I'd have a nice tool that I would definitely put to use. I don't have the time/skills to build my own. Just seeing if anyone has an opinion on this. Regards.
I've used their mini lathe and mini mill multiple times a week for the past 5 years and they both still work fine, even after being thoroughly abused (I planed the top of an anvil with the mill). Harbor Freight is more of a minefield than a deathtrap; most of the time you'll be fine, but occasionally you'll get fucked. Don't buy their multimeters or drill bits.
I've got a bad blower motor in my car, and can't afford a replacement atm. I've got a few smaller motors lying around, any ideas on how I could pop the blades on one of those and nigger-rig one until I can get my hand on a replacement? Just gotta get SOME air blowing through the vents, it's too damn hot for driving without one.
>>1009437 Seams like one of your rotary encoder channels has died. You could test with a multimeter to be sure. When this happens the mouse's firmware can tell you're scrolling but not the direction and for whatever reason your mouse defaults to up. It's probably a worn contact or some other mechanical problem in the encoder; mechanical stuff can only be used so much before it breaks. Replace the encoder or open it up and try to fix it.
>>1009347 It would pretty much only have the strength of the steel, as the wood loses it's strength. The wood's strength is from its natural grain and handles are cut from center of the log for density. Basically, you'll have a steel handle with a wood grip. Better off just making a handle out of steel pipe and tape for the grip. Far easier, and lighter than you're idea.
I ask because I've been homebrewing for a while. I'm now getting some plans together to build a sort of walk-in refrigerator in my basement...not quite so cold, maybe, but perfectly temperature controlled, so I can do more to control the fermentation temperature.
I won a bunch of starrett 657 mag bases and all the buttons move but they're pretty difficult to push. Any ideas on how to free them up? There was a thread on homeshopmachinist about them and they say not to pop the front off or else they won't be as strong as before. Should I just try dripping acetone or carb cleaner down the sides of the button?
So I got an old peice of wood filled with lots of rotted out pockets. I was thinking about making a table like pic related with phosphorescent polyurethane as I think it looks pretty neat.
However I'm moving to an apartment soon and I'm thinking unless this thing is right next to a window to absorb sunlight it's never gonna actually give off that glow and will be useless.
What do you guys think, anyone ever try anything with this stuff? How does it fair inside? Is there another type of maybe reflective polyurethane that I can get to give off that almost holographic sheen?
>>1009227 Its meh. That stuff fades quickly with time. It stops working. I think something similar you should do stuff that reacts to a black light. Oorrr do it so its just tinted color and put like LED strips under the table. Like around the knee knockers or something.
My Lincoln Mark VII has a broken Tripminder. Which in pic related is the hub for distance to empty, trip tracking, clock, etc. Just above the air conditioner and below the two center vents.
Since it's broken, I was wanting to take it out and install gauges. Green digital LED ones that match the digital dash. Does anyone have any DIY instructions for doing such an install? I was thinking I could buy 3 LED screens with so many digits on them, and hook them up to circuits that will output information like RPM, Coolant Temps, and Oil Temps. Maybe even boost.
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Wouldn't be terribly difficult to find some guages you like online and mount them where and how you want. You could glue a piece of painted aluminum in front of your broken display and then cut holes in it with a holesaw to fit the new guages in. Then you have to wire them up, which isn't too tricky. A boost guage might be difficult if you don't have a turbo on your 5l Windsor but you could do a vacuum guage- it just runs to an unused bung on the intake.
Unfortunately, you are going to find out that LED displays do not speak a universal language, and that automotive gauges can be very expensive.
Your best bet is to use something like an arduino as an OBD reader/trip computer to pull data from the vehicle's own sensors. Then you can display that data on a screen that fits the location, or perhaps re-use the original screen.
That's a lot of coding to learn, but there are worse ways to spend your time.
I'm seeing cheap seven segment displays that claim to be tachometers on ebay. I'm also seeing that ardurio is pretty nifty and people are using it for builds. Should l try to get one of these chinese ones first? Theyre like 15 bucks and the right dimensions. I've also seen some coding examples with the same chip you mentioned. I just want something that goes with the seven segment green dash of the car. Custom making it would be a cool project.
Does anybody have any ideas (hopefully cheap) on how I can make a stand to hold this light? I went to home depot and they had a similar one of plastic and the guy was saying to remove the bottom and drill a hole connecting the light to a PVC pipe as the stand. But the light I have is heavier (almost glass like) and the bottom isn't removable. I just need something to hold the light in the air like in the picture shown but I can't tell how they're doing it. Thanks in advance
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