First time poster here needing a helping hand from a locksmith/carpenter on ways to fix this raggedy back door of this rental unit. The door has been shouldered in multiple times by an ex-roomie that's not allowed to be around the house anymore and looking for ingenious ways to get this doorway sturdy. I got a few pics but can take more from preferred angles. My own thoughts on this to show my own (in)experience? Is digging further into the green beam with a reciprocating saw and then nailing a 2x6 to it so the new lock and door can have some bite and support. I gotta ask... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
It's not your job to fix it, you call up whoever you're leasing it from and get them to fix it, if it was your fault then you pay, if it's something that happened naturally then they pay. Only good thing about renting a place is not having to pay a plumber/electrician/glazier when shit breaks.
>STATUTORY [PIC RELATED] SAFETY NOTICE: >All Angle Grinder Acts carry full public liability insurance for ten million pounds and use full RCD protection. All Angle Grinder Acts will perform a full risk assessment at each event. All they require is a working 240v supply.
>>967322 >Im kinda upgrading an old subwoofer. Is it worth adding another heatsink here? No. >The standard heatsink usually does get quite warm. That's what heatsinks are supposed to do. If it didn't get "quite warm" that would mean there was something wrong with it. >Or should i rather add a low noise/slow spinning fan to the system? No again. If it's only getting "quite warm", then it's... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>966905 >what's a good cam the OEM one. a cam modification alters compression. there is no need to modify the cam unless you are adding forced induction. as in, you are changing how air and fuel intake and exhaust needs to exit the engine.
I see all sorts of shit online of people trying to resell their shitboxes they've ruined with worthless stage 9001 modifications that make no sense at all.
>>966684 While hammering anything more then just bending something. 5 strikes on one side, flip the piece, 5 strikes on that side, never just hammer one side other wise during any hardening its gonna bend towards the side you hammered the most.
so I have an old dewalt DW926 drill. Getting straight to the point. both battery's are shit. whats the best - and cheapest. course of action to get it to run off the wall instead of a battery? I want to use the drill as a rod spinner for wrapping and restoring fishing poles.
I did google, but not really getting useful information
if it helps, the outside of the drill says 9.6 V DC. inside the switch itself says 12v-24v DC and when I looked up the motor itself, most were also 12v-24v DC. so I'm really unsure what to follow.
The battery will only supply 9.6v because of the cells in the battery pack. Open it up and you'll see a few cells about the size of C cell batteries. Each will do about 1.2v, so theres probably 8 in there. You may want to google some guides on how to do it. The battery size and maH rating is what you'll need to verify for replacement.
The switch will handle 12v-24v as its engineered. Same with the motor. The motor and switch will work fine on AC or DC current. The problem is getting it down from 120v. Its a little dangerous and I wouldn't recommend this... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>965620 well from a corded drill I already have, [hence why I don't wanna just up an buy something, if I can just make something work.] with a motor thats pretty much close to the same size as the one that's inside this drill. is 5.2 amps at 115v that's 598 watts.
now I'm confused by your statement of why I need to find the milliampere hour in order to figure out my problem, milliampere hour is for how long the battery's will last? how's that going to help me at all, when I'd be running... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Guys, help me out if any of you work on laser engravers and such.
I am trying to engrave/laser out jiggsaw puzzle like objects out of plywood. The problem is that plywood quality in my country is overall shit and I need to find a way to properly place it/straighten it out to fight the curvature.
If I will attach it with wires I need shit ton of them and there is still some cruvature in the middle, when I use double sided ducktape over time it goes weak and bends out again, and since the whole process takes an hour or so slowly it bends out everywhere.
Any... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>965239 yah plywood is not the way to go. plywood warps. by its very nature. it's unsealed laminated slices of wood. the different grains of each ply will expand and contract differently. not to mention different sides will be exposed to a humidity differential. you CAN straighten plywood though. it will just warp again though.
I moved into a new apartment and the previous renters were asians or something and cooked all the time. This part above the stove is greasy as fuck and the grease has seemed to become super fucking stuck on.
I've tried everything to get it off, chemical degreasers everything.
>>965007 >What is it? A bunch of surfactants and a shitload of sodium hydroxide. The sprayer has a helpful "foam" setting that makes it cling to the surface. It's ph 13. >Is it dangerous? Yes. https://hdsupplysolutions.com/wcsstore/ThdsMroUs/product/fm/additional/MS/MSDS-114937.pdf >Isn't there something I could just buy at a hardware store or something? There are loads, but they don't work.
>>964811 Eh, there are enough resources online for him to learn. If it's just for a hobby it doesn't have to be 100% cleared for council and up to code, just has to be close enough.
>>964807 You can, anyone can do it, just depends on how accurate you want to be and how long you want to be learning. There is a lot of shit to learn, construction methods (for ALL areas of a building), materials, standards, local, state and country codes, standards and regulations.... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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