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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 106. page
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First time poster here needing a helping hand from a locksmith/carpenter on ways to fix this raggedy back door of this rental unit. The door has been shouldered in multiple times by an ex-roomie that's not allowed to be around the house anymore and looking for ingenious ways to get this doorway sturdy. I got a few pics but can take more from preferred angles. My own thoughts on this to show my own (in)experience? Is digging further into the green beam with a reciprocating saw and then nailing a 2x6 to it so the new lock and door can have some bite and support. I gotta ask...
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Damn sideways pictures, am on my phone
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>>967492
>rental unit

It's not your job to fix it, you call up whoever you're leasing it from and get them to fix it, if it was your fault then you pay, if it's something that happened naturally then they pay. Only good thing about renting a place is not having to pay a plumber/electrician/glazier when shit breaks.
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>>967492
That wallpaper!

Get a crowbar and pry it out. Replace with new lumber.

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How do o go about machining one of these metal shields?

What materials should I use?
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>>967471
A flat sheet of steel
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>>967486
This, then bend up the sides and drill holes in it.
Get another thin steel plate bend it and weld it to the back to use as a handle
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>>967471
A brake and a punch press, OP.

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How do you remove the blade from a Gillette's razor?
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Why would you want to? It's not like razor blades are expensive.
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>>967418
AngloGrinder.

>STATUTORY [PIC RELATED] SAFETY NOTICE:
>All Angle Grinder Acts carry full public liability insurance for ten million pounds and use full RCD protection. All Angle Grinder Acts will perform a full risk assessment at each event. All they require is a working 240v supply.
>>
>>967425
I need to know the answer to this question too...

Razor blades are cheap and readily available, in fact it would be much more expensive to waste a gillete razor by removing the blades.

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What am I doing wrong here? I'm trying to change my 4 prong dryer cord to a 3 prong cord but it does not seem to work. Am I connecting these correctly?
14 replies and 4 images submitted. Click here to view.
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Looks right. What seems to be the issue? Did you check voltage at the outlet,
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>>967415
I've done the same thing, looks right... Breaker tripped?
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>>967759
So, you have a ground. Why are you only using a 3 wire cord?

Anyway, I think you swapped a hot and a neutral. Might be your 'outlet' or whatever that cluster fuck is called is mis-wired. Get a cheap multimeter and test it.

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Has anyone used one of these. Seems a very good idea but I wonder what the quality is like and how well it works.
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>>967406
you can buy a shifter for a dollar though. this wont replace a wrench.
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I have adjustable spanners.
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>>967406
my boss bought one of them, he flashed it around for a week and it's never seen any use really.

it relies on having a strong grip and the nut not having anything blocking the wrench going over the top of it, which is the obvious glaring drawback of such a tool.

my advice would be to save your money, buy a basic set of well known and time proven tools and simply upgrade in quality over time

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Im kinda upgrading an old subwoofer. Is it worth adding another heatsink here? The standard heatsink usually does get quite warm. Or should i rather add a low noise/slow spinning fan to the system?
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>>967322
bolting on an extra heatsink to a distant fin wont do shit. you can either upgrade the heatsink or add a fan.
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>>967322
>Im kinda upgrading an old subwoofer. Is it worth adding another heatsink here?
No.
>The standard heatsink usually does get quite warm.
That's what heatsinks are supposed to do. If it didn't get "quite warm" that would mean there was something wrong with it.
>Or should i rather add a low noise/slow spinning fan to the system?
No again. If it's only getting "quite warm", then it's...
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>>967329
lol what impractical monstrosity is this

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What's a good cam to put In my 5.3L motor
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>>966905
Oh, wait. You said GOOD. Nevermind.
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Does Jason have a big dick or something?
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>>966905
>what's a good cam
the OEM one.
a cam modification alters compression. there is no need to modify the cam unless you are adding forced induction. as in, you are changing how air and fuel intake and exhaust needs to exit the engine.

I see all sorts of shit online of people trying to resell their shitboxes they've ruined with worthless stage 9001 modifications that make no sense at all.

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What would it take to (1) unclog the drain, (2) fix diposal, & (3) install a hand sprayer thing? How much would a plumber charge?
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>>966819
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>>966820
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>>966819
1. get a snake and do it yourself
2. whats wrong with the disposal
3. get a T fitting and add the sprayer

A plumber is going to charge you a whole lot more than you want.

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Brand new to black smithing and have been playing around but discussion and tips would be much appreciated (pic related my forge)
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>>966684
While hammering anything more then just bending something. 5 strikes on one side, flip the piece, 5 strikes on that side, never just hammer one side other wise during any hardening its gonna bend towards the side you hammered the most.
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>>966685
duh. doesn't everyone know that? iv never even done anything like that before.
>>
Electric forges are pretty cool.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLaBFkeHG0A

It's a meme video more than anything, but hot damn laser derusting is cool.

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Does /diy/ like potato cannons?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wvpjAyHH490
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=biwaOZiNHhk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FeUn6_nLr4E
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If it can't make fries or hash browns, I'm just not that interested.
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>>966392
Then you make a potato cannon with a mandoline attachment

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I have these three cases that measure 20.5" x 16.375" x 7.0"

I want to use them as tool boxes. Does anyone have suggestions on lightweight trays I could make?

Foam is an option, but cutting all those slots will take a long ass time.
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>>966378
>rip out foam
>insert tools
>close lid
>???
>profit
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>>966404
It needs some organization. I might as well throw all my tools in a trash bag at that point.
>>
Tuppaware or similar tubs, keep an eye out for sweet tubs etc that'll fit
Check yard sales and 2nd shops, nearly all the ones I frequent have parts from other tool boxes

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so I have an old dewalt DW926 drill. Getting straight to the point. both battery's are shit. whats the best - and cheapest. course of action to get it to run off the wall instead of a battery? I want to use the drill as a rod spinner for wrapping and restoring fishing poles.

I did google, but not really getting useful information

if it helps, the outside of the drill says 9.6 V DC.
inside the switch itself says 12v-24v DC
and when I looked up the motor itself, most were also 12v-24v DC. so I'm really unsure what to follow.
20 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
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The battery will only supply 9.6v because of the cells in the battery pack. Open it up and you'll see a few cells about the size of C cell batteries. Each will do about 1.2v, so theres probably 8 in there. You may want to google some guides on how to do it. The battery size and maH rating is what you'll need to verify for replacement.

The switch will handle 12v-24v as its engineered. Same with the motor. The motor and switch will work fine on AC or DC current. The problem is getting it down from 120v. Its a little dangerous and I wouldn't recommend this...
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>>965615
>the best - and cheapest

Are you new here? The best thing would be a regulated power supply, the cheapest would be alkaline batteries, you're never going to reconcile the difference in price between the two options.
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>>965620
well from a corded drill I already have, [hence why I don't wanna just up an buy something, if I can just make something work.] with a motor thats pretty much close to the same size as the one that's inside this drill. is 5.2 amps at 115v that's 598 watts.

now I'm confused by your statement of why I need to find the milliampere hour in order to figure out my problem, milliampere hour is for how long the battery's will last? how's that going to help me at all, when I'd be running...
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Guys, help me out if any of you work on laser engravers and such.

I am trying to engrave/laser out jiggsaw puzzle like objects out of plywood. The problem is that plywood quality in my country is overall shit and I need to find a way to properly place it/straighten it out to fight the curvature.

If I will attach it with wires I need shit ton of them and there is still some cruvature in the middle, when I use double sided ducktape over time it goes weak and bends out again, and since the whole process takes an hour or so slowly it bends out everywhere.

Any...
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>>965239
I thought that was why jigsaws were made of MDF: it doesn't have a grain, so it can't warp along the grain it doesn't have.
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>>965239
yah plywood is not the way to go.
plywood warps. by its very nature. it's unsealed laminated slices of wood. the different grains of each ply will expand and contract differently. not to mention different sides will be exposed to a humidity differential. you CAN straighten plywood though. it will just warp again though.

http://theplywood.com/flattening-warped
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>>965240
MDF contains glue and since it's for kids I can't use that. >>965247
What do you guys suggest that will be both cheap, relatively sturdy, easy to laser on and usable for kids toy?

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I moved into a new apartment and the previous renters were asians or something and cooked all the time. This part above the stove is greasy as fuck and the grease has seemed to become super fucking stuck on.

I've tried everything to get it off, chemical degreasers everything.

What do I do?

It smells pretty bad.
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>>964993
One round of this, and I guarantee that grease will never trouble you again.

Mail order it from whatever your country's mail-order catering supplies firm is.

Wear the goggles.

If you need to make a minimum-order, get a Victorinox knife and some whipped-cream cartridges.
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>>964997
What is it?

Is it dangerous?

Isn't there something I could just buy at a hardware store or something?
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>>965007
>What is it?
A bunch of surfactants and a shitload of sodium hydroxide. The sprayer has a helpful "foam" setting that makes it cling to the surface. It's ph 13.
>Is it dangerous?
Yes.
https://hdsupplysolutions.com/wcsstore/ThdsMroUs/product/fm/additional/MS/MSDS-114937.pdf
>Isn't there something I could just buy at a hardware store or something?
There are loads, but they don't work.

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Is this something I can get into in my spare time?

I have no training as an architect or a structural engineer.
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>>964807
Drawing? Sure, but without the professional knowledge you won't even know what you are doing. That is the difference between fantasy fictional illustrations and actual real buildings.
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>>964811
Eh, there are enough resources online for him to learn. If it's just for a hobby it doesn't have to be 100% cleared for council and up to code, just has to be close enough.

>>964807
You can, anyone can do it, just depends on how accurate you want to be and how long you want to be learning. There is a lot of shit to learn, construction methods (for ALL areas of a building), materials, standards, local, state and country codes, standards and regulations....
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>>964807
I'd suggest something like SketchUp as a jumping off point.

It's very fast and fairly intuitive, very easy to make a quick mock up of your idea. You can also export projects to your desired CAD file format for further editing and revising, rendering, etc.

I'd also suggest not using ArchiCAD... AutoCAD's been on the Mac for a few years now, no point in settling.

There are plenty of good online books and video tutorials. I highly recommend watching video tutorials and learning how...
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