>>1010733 G'day cunt, search for a fucking usb microphone, use your imagination and technical skills to take apart the fucking mic and maybe add a longer usb lead to connect to your porn box, maybe add a switch to the phone to switch the fucking on or off or mute, fucking work it out yourself cunt, post pics here when you're done mate, good luck.
I'm really stuck on this circuit I'm trying to build to heat and cool a block. The thermal blocks heats and cool based on whether I apply a +12/-12V at each of its inputs and I have to swap them manually to invert the heating/cooling function.
I was thinking of using an Arduino that sends a Digital signal to a multiplexer to convert the voltage whenever I reach a certain temperature.
So when I am at 60c, I want to heat, and at 95C I want to cool and cycle back and forth. I want to swap the voltages but I'm not sure if I can do this with a multiplexer.... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
You'd end up with a much simpler design by simply using a pair of relays. Since the thermal blocks likely use a decent amount of power you're running them with a decent set of Transistors or Relays in the first place.
>>1010537 >I'm really stuck on this circuit I'm trying to build to heat and cool a block. The thermal blocks heats and cool based on whether I apply a +12/-12V at each of its inputs and I have to swap them manually to invert the heating/cooling function. I was going to say to use an H-bridge, but somebody in /g/ knew enough to say that already.... An H-bridge is a type of circuit that does exactly what you want here: it swaps polarity between two wires. You can buy H-bridge ICs... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Pneumatics people, would a setup like pic related work for closed-loop controlling the volume of a balloon without attaching a positional transducer to the balloon itself? From looking on the internet, I've found that the volume-pressure relationship of a balloon is many-to-one with an initial peak as it inflates, so you can't reliably estimate volume from pressure especially when starting from atmospheric.
The balloon is just a regular latex party balloon and the pumps are http://www.robotshop.com/ca/en/sfe-air-pump.html . I don't need to spit out the exact volume. Just be able to inflate then deflate to manually-adjusted setpoints, then have the control system repeat that motion on any identical balloon.
Ideally it should be able to fully inflate and deflate a balloon quite rapidly, in 1/2 a second or less. The sense chamber would large enough that it would be negligibly stressed in doing so. I also realize that compressing the balloon will cause volume to decrease without registering in the sense chamber, but this is an acceptable compromise.
>>1010349 Now that you're being more clear, rather than a pure soft robot, which sounds like a pain in the ass, I would make a hybrid soft/hard robot with joints and rotary encoders. It'd be a lot easier than building a circuit that PIDs based on volume vs ambient pressure.
2 year ago was try to clean up this mouse and made a really big mistake in left panel cable connector, and cant fix it. 1 because the connector non-separable And 2 the cable damaged, because i forcedly try to put it back.
I feel i can fix it, but i think i need tip or better a tutorial video for how to fix.
So I bought this motorcycle and the PO had at some point broke off the left mirror and """repaired""" it with JB weld. It snapped off when I went to adjust it. The mirror assembly is threaded on one end M10-1.25 to be precise, I have a nut that will fit. It would normally thread into a (plastic) boltplate to the lights control switch assembly but it's fucked. The handlebar has some space, it's about 3/4" around or whatever that is in metric sizes.
So my ideas so far, get a pipe clamp or conduit strap on the handlebars, but I feel like this would vibrate around the axis of the handlebars unless it was perfect. Its a metric bike so no construction hardware would fit perfectly and I'd have to drill them out to fit the 10mm thread.
I could also attempt the same route as the last guy, bore out the old hole in the light switch assembly and JB weld a nut in there but that failed last time and I want a faster solution than waiting for JB weld to cure forever.
Friend suggested having shop weld a nut to the bars but I feel like no reputable shop would do that or they'd charge like 60$.
I''m looking for a quick and easy and inexpensive solution, it''s a beater bike so it doesn't need to be pretty, just needs to work. State law says I have to have two mirrors and I don't like doing 180 head checks everytime I merge left.
Any ideas? I asked /o/ but they're all hayabusa bros that don't jury rig nothing. Pic related as you can see how the mirror is screwed into the switch assembly and how they can break off, if you're not familiar with them.
Longer term - grab a set of bar end mirrors off fleabay for $10..... Wait a week from chong kong. Alternately, drill the switch block, get a spiral thread repair, jamb that in. Done. Dont weld the fucking handlebars anon. Dont weld the fucking handlebars. Many shouldnt be drilled either, as some such as alu bars have structural integrity issues that result in fun things like the bars folding when a larger force is applied. Like when your trying like fuck to stop in time when some dead shit in a hyundai pulls out 20m infront, and your doing a buck 20. Then your right side... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1009984 Bar-end mirrors are as bad as no mirrors, you have to take your eyes off the road and down on the pavement 3 feet away to use them. Also newer versions of my bike have their mirrors mounted on separate clamp/ bracket things and they cost like 7$ but I don't want to wait and there isn't much space on the bars with the old-style switch block to mount one.
Drilling out the switch block to run the threaded end, then secured with a nut sounds like it might work though. I wonder if the plastic would hold... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I have a two year old laptop that was made cheaply in Taiwan, and the rubberized plastic that coats most of the laptop's surfaces is starting to degrade and get really sticky. I've had this situation before with mice and a few other electronics, but this is the first time it's happened so quickly. My Logitech mice had no problems for at least 4 years, and I've still got a Zune HD with a similar rubberized plastic bottom that hasn't degraded at all, but has rubbed away.
Are there any ways to restore this coating to its prior state, or at least... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Ok guys, I'm thinking of buying a Kubota G1800. It needs a little work, but I can get it cheap. It runs and mows, but it has been rigged in a few places, ignition, throttle cable. Anyone have any experience with one of these? >pic related
I am planning to convert an old fridge into a fermentation chamber so that I can brew beer at home. Most people in the homebrewing community seem to use something called STC-1000, an inexpensive temperature control unit, which is basically just a temperature sensor hooked up with an MCU and two relays, that switch the fridge and an (optional) heat source
I have some experience with low-voltage circuits, but I have never really built anything that runs on the mains and I am not sure how reliable these cheap Chinese electronics are. Most people... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1009570 There may be a better way of doing this. Depending on how household refrigerators work, cutting power to them may be noisy and hard on the system. I suspect that there is a fairly simple method of interfacing with the temperature controller inside the fridge to give it a false reading, enabling you to turn the compressor on and off.
I have 2 pc's (soon a third high-end pc) and 4 phones and generate around 300-550H/s on DSH and around 200-300H/s on ETH. How bad is that and how can I be more effective? Also Electricity is included in the rent
>>1009526 fuck off - I see the odd thread (based) mods catch and obliterate, christ knows how many actually get started. Just had a look at >>>/biz/ see if they were still accepting this crap - entire firstpage, there is fucking nothing else.
shits cancer yo, and you know it - get a proper job and get this to fuck.
I started a thread on this board a few months ago and you guys helped me out a lot, like more than I expected, with surprisingly little shitposting and guys being a dick about fucking with a 'historical rifle', so I thought I might as well post the finished project, I think it turned out real nice, sorry it took so long to finish and to post the results, i got stuck deciding the color of the wood stain and ended up cleaning the wood for a month until it got a nice clean blonde and I just said fuck it and lacquered over it.
I just don't get how much work I should put in the form. I mean , they used wooden planks for the pice in the picture as far is i know. but how were the planks shaped ? were they shaped at all , can I leave gaps between the boards because of the vicosity of the concret ? I tried to make two examples of what I mean by shaped boards in the pic
I'm at my wits end. I've been struggling for over 2 weeks trying to make an accurate timer/oscillator using basic electronics and IC's but I'm out of luck and ideas.
I've tried 555 timers, inaccurate as shit. I've tried 4060 timers, better, but still not good enough. I've added one of the f*ckers in the pic to the 4060, but STILL the frequencies jump all over the place.
I've tested and exchanged all my parts, no luck there.
My goal is to turn this thing into an 8 hour timer so I can water my plants while I'm... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>I've tried 555 timers, inaccurate as shit. >I've tried 4060 timers, better, but still not good enough. The main limiting factor with those are the passive components and 4060 is also influenced by supply voltage variations. >I've added one of the f*ckers in the pic to the 4060, but STILL the frequencies jump all over the place. You either did it wrong or you have rather ridiculous requirements for the accuracy of your plant watering timer. If it's the latter,... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I don't really care for the actual frequency all that much. I can get the 8 hours from almost any frequency smaller than a second basically. I wrote a tool that automatically calculates the pin connections based on the measured frequency.
Stability is the big factor though. From all the tutorials/blogs/websites, it seemed like the crystal oscillator thing would have a highly accurate 2 Hz output on the 4060, but I've been extremely let down.
About the voltage variation, my hookup is as follows: 1... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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