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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 119. page
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I need help opening up a bluetooth speaker. I'm making a new casing for it.

But it seems this thing has no screws. How can I open it up?
11 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
>ib4 harmonics
I need a picture of the bottom to tell you where the concealed screws are.

Also, it's probably not going to make it sound better, and will more likely make it sound worse.

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Hi /diy/

Excuse the very poor drawing, but I hope it makes sense.

I am building a cockpit for simulations. The design I have is going to be roughly like the picture. The black box will be the main structure that someone sits in. The light blue piece is a canopy that goes over the user, just like in a real plane.

The darker blue is a support structure for the front of the cockpit canopy.

My question concerns the red thing. Basically, the canopy overhangs the main structure and to make it look nice, I would like a curved wood piece on the outside, to...
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Most simpit builders work out their panel and seat placement first and then go from there.
Checkout places like forums.eagle.ru and viperpits.org
If you want a predesigned pit that you can either modify or build around, look for the AkersBarnes pit.
You're probably gonna be stuck using 1/8" or 1/4" plywood or masonite. Ideally you'd have to build an internal structure to attach it to, so it can retain its shape. Hell you might even have to score it depending on how sharp your curves are

Way I would do it is build a internal structure nail and pl that son ova bitch down and then scribe the outside profile to meet the the profile of the "fuselage"

Get a jigsaw and start practicing curves. Also when cutting a curve dont put any weight on the jigsaw, let the saw pull itself through...
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I have it all built, it's just the red outer curves that I am trying to fit on.

See, I started with doing that internal structure stuff and it works at the back. It's just where I start to curve in at the front as well that a problem occurs, because it starts throwing the back out and feels like there is a lot of tension in it.

Not sure what cuts you are suggesting with the jigsaw?

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Had this idea on how to cheaply convert a shitty DDR mat into a usable arcade pad substitute. What do you guys think? Any potential complications I'm overlooking? Does anyone have a diagram of the guts of one of these 360 mats?
4 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
Just build one from scratch.
If you can weld. make a metal 3x3 frame. Get a metal plate, if you can get your hands on a sheet bending machine even getter. Use mechanical buttons under the pads to register the presses. Use the parallel port on you PC to read the output. Build a C interpreter and a driver for it so you can use it with games. Its like a weekend of work.
I can't do anything fancy like welding or programming. I have, however, considered using an Xbox 360 fighting game arcade stick, since they are basically designed to be customized and will have the advantage of X-Input in Windows.

However, that's another project further down the road. I'm just thinking about slapping together something easy/cheap until I can get a more interesting build going. (Will eventually try to design a portable one that folds up into a cube)
Fuck I made one about ten years ago. Can't remember exactly what I did but I remember there was plexiglass and it lit up when you stepped on it. Probably just made a little platform out of 2x4s, got a shitty ebay pad, cut it open and moved everything onto the pad.

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Have a craftsmen weed Wacker and leaf blower that stopped working after a couple years of no use. I am quite sure this is due to ethanol damage because this was the case with my lawnmower with i sent to the hardware store for repair. It's not worth it for me to send these tools out for repair. Can diy tell me what I have to do too get these guys working again?
6 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
Rebuild and clean out the carb. If it ran well before being put up it is unlikely anything other than being gummed up is what the problem is.

Is this another one of those 26cc homelite china whackers?

Mine packed up after storage from carbon seizing the piston rings. The needle settings on the carburetor for these things are set wrong on purpose to meet emissions standards or something. You have to take out the spark plug and fill the cylinder with a solvent like paint thinner and leave it for a few days. You also need to check and make sure the paint thinner doesn't just leak past the stuck piston ring. Drain it out after a couple of days...
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ideas as to where one could buy multiple, matching adapter power plugs (M,F) for tinkering? as cheap as possible

have lots of power bricks for powering small fans/etc, but I'd like a way of having them be more interchangeable, and cleaner

pic semi-related....neat, but they want you to order at least 500
12 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
I probably should have looked there before anywhere else...lol

adafruit sells those things for $2.50, PRODUCT ID: 1125

the china price is prolly cheaper, but I've not sought (or found) them on any of the china-direct sites yet
RC battery connectors should work for what you want

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I plan on creating a hole in the body of a guitar like in the picture (circled in red). Generally, this is done in a factory by a machine, but I have a feeling it's possible without a computer. I'm not sure how many methods exist, or what tools may be involved.
If I end up butchering the whole thing, I'm not going to cry too hard over it, I spent about $70 on the guitar, and $15 on the pickups on amazon. I bought it pretty much to experiment modding.
Any advice is greatly appreciated, thanks.

Ps for guitar nerds who care, I plan on adding a single...
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A jig, a router with depth control. And a plunge cut bit. Thats probably what most manufacturers do if they havent moved on to cnc

Or maybe a multitool and chisel if you're fine with a rectangle.

Or ultra cheap and don't care how it looks you use some gouges and dig it out (cross cutting will be a bitch.

Good luck and have patience especially if its maple.
Basswood, and thanks
this pretty much

if you don't have a template, use another piece of wood, trace your design, then route it out to your satisfaction

take that template and use it on the guitar with a bit (http://www.amazon.com/Dia-Top-Bearing-Flush-Trim/dp/B0000225XQ) to get the perfect match

harbor freight has a trim router for <$30

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Complete metal noob here.
I want to construct a laptop case from scratch, about 13 inches wide, out of brass, bronze or copper, and use metal glue to hold it all together. I don't care too much about the weight. What I'm wondering is, which out of the three should I use for minimum unwanted bending, and how thick do the sheets need to be? I don't drop laptops, so it doesn't have to be immune to that, and I won't be carrying it with me in a bag. It would also be nice to be able to bend it at least a little, with little to no tools, and I'll probably...
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plastic cases already get hot af - enough to be uncomfortable on your lap. a metal case is going to get a lot hotter and you're going to have to line the inside with plastic anyway to stop the case from shorting out the electronics

i mean it's possible, but why
Although metal could actually be a good heat sink, especially aluminum. But yes, avoid shorting things out. And you can always put leather or fabric or rubber or something on the bottom to avoid leg burn.

You're going to need to precisely machine all the screw points, edges, etc. Etc., and you're going to have a very bad day if you don't already have machining experience. Might be easier to start with a standard case and add to it. Or at least strip the laptop down and build the case around it.

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So I have pic related, it's an ASUS Vivbobook X202E-DH51T. I really want to use it as a tablet since its touchscreen and I was wondering if it was possible to make it into a 2 in 1 PC. I opened it a few times and it seems the hinges can be taken off, so I could replace them for either a similar 2 in 1 model series or buy custom ones. Is this feasible?
5 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
The only big issue I see with it, make sure you have more than enough ribbon cable and other cable length.

Moving it that much further back would require a decently long monitor cable.
Every laptop I have opened up, I know some of the cables would have been too short.

If you can lengthen them, youll be just fine if you have the skills to fabricate the new hinges in there.
I don't think I can "extend" it but maybe it's long enough, I'll post pics when I get home and see if it's long enough.
Can I ask what is the point of doing this if the screen still needs to be attached to the keyboard with ribbon cables?

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Anyone have an idea as to how I can do the pauldron. my last attempt failed horribly. and I wasted a lot of metal for it. I don't have a way to heat any of this so if there is any alternative way I could go about doing this any help would be greatly appreciated. It just has to cover the shoulder. it doesn't have to be perfect.
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im not an armour expert, nor a medieval expert, but if was making that, i would make a base out of leather and then rivet the metal to that leather. i feel like that would add comfort and extra protection, as well as making it easier to construct, since leather is a much easier material. Thats just me though, i really dont know much.
Thank you for the information I am not an expert either I might of bit off more than I could chew with this project. I need to dish the piece but I don't have a way to heat the steel :/ I am going to use leather thanks!

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Can exotic /wood/ pros identify the species of wood used in my antique Trump stick? It's very heavy and hard, as befitting a wood suitable for bashing in the heads of immigrants.

It's clearly not hickory or ash, which are the only comparable North American timbers I know of that are suitable for breaking bones. And I think it's too heavy to be hickory or ash. Any ideas?
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Detail shot.

Just what the hell is this, and where can I get more?
>kill immigrants xD im so edgy
Looks like from the flecking it could be a hard maple

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How would I go about opening this door?
33 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
It's welded
Cut the welds with an anglegrinder with a cutting disc.
If its welded from both sides you are out of luck and will need a cutting torch like an oxy/acetylene
or anon could just cut off the hinges, go at that side of the door with a crowbar. Won't be easy but it's the best bet if both sides are welded. I really doubt they are though.

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Hey chan. I'm building a rolling closet using a 2x10x8 for the bottom and top, and a 2x8x8 for each of the sides. Just a basic rectangular box. I'm going to mount a closet bar to the inside of the 2x8x8s to hang clothes inside.

When screwing the top piece of wood to the side pieces, do I just sit the wood on top and screw through the top for the best support, or do I place the wood inside flush with the tops of the side pieces and screw through the side for the most support for the bar?
4 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
Super overbuilt. Wasting lots of money. This is what happening when framers think they can be cabinetmakers. Putting the wood on top and screwing down is stronger but its going to be ugly as fuck. Miter joints are your friend. Next time ask us where to begin because you have purchased framing timber for cabinetry and wasted a bunch of money on the wrong materials for the job.
You'd want to have the top member on top of the side members. Think about the shear force you'd put on the screws if you did it the other way around.
I'd put a rabbet on the side members and rest the top piece in the rabbet then glue and screw.

Build the box on the ground and make sure everything is square. Plywood on the back will keep it square once you have the box built.

Personally I think the lumber you have is way overkill but it's your project. Any plans for doors to keep dust out?
>over built
He's talking about butt joints and screwing into end grain, nothing about this says over built to me. Also, while a miter may appear nicer I wouldn't use it as a joint that may be put under stress, which these ones will due to the way they'll be positioned.

Since you've already committed to this op, get a 2x2 and use it as a brace in each inside corner. It'll be ugly but it'll be the easiest and cheapest way to make it stable. Orientate it that you can screw through the face grain of the outside board into the face grain of the 2x2. If you just screw into the end grain of the outside board it'll work its way out.

A rabbet and glue would be nice, but it may be out of your skill set. If you feel comfortable you can pull it off I'd do that.

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I have a question for the people who know some stuff about roofs.

I recently bought an old house and I want to insulate the roof. Currently it's just asbestos slates over the wooden frame and the bedrooms are right beneath it(so our attic is actually just our 1st floor) because of wich I can't insulate from within(bricked walls supporting the wood, can't get behind it).

I wanted to insulate from the outside with hard PIR insulation plates(Where I live this is called the "sarking" method). Problem is I have a very steep roof and the asbestos...
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I didn't understand much of any of that apart from the asbestos...if it's possible to have it removed and you plan on staying at the location, I'd remove it.

This kind of shows how it's supposed to be done.

Except we wouldn't remove the old slates, just leave them there.

Asbestos causes harm when small particles are released, of wich we'll have a lot more of we have to remove every slate.

Pic is how the roof looks like from inside.
I'd probably just sprayfoam that. Seems like a pretty big hassle any other way.

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Hey /diy/, I wasn't sure where to take this, but I suppose I'm doing it myself so this may be the best place to take it.

My cuff snap button on my jacket has come off, I have a spare but I am completely lost as to how to put it together. Is this something I need to take to a dry cleaners?
>Pic related
My jacket and the buttons
6 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
You need one of these

Are there any stores that may sell these?

I'm not sure if this is the right place to talk about drapes. I'm looking to get some blackout drapes because my circadian center is a fucking wuss and won't let me sleep through even the tiniest light exposure. These blackout curtains would preferably be under 50 CAD, and available here in Canada.

I'm coming here for advice because I can't find any fucking reviews for blackout curtains. All the results on Google, Duckduckgo, Bing, it's all fucking commercial results. Does no one buy blackout curtains and then think to write a review so...
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This is DIY motherfucker. We MAKE our own blackout curtains here.

plastidip the windows
Have you even aluminium foil noob, this is diy, not buy-me-shit

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