I am pretty sure that you can't out of an alternating current. It is the "one direction" voltage that dc had that makes the ferrous molecules in metal to align and become magnetic. So you'd need to change the ac to dc by using a converter like a wall adapter for electronics.
So I am putting together a computer myself for the first time, and after I got all the parts in, the machine will power on, the fans kick in, but it beeps twice and nothing appears onscreen. I've heard that it could be memory issues and such, but I've removed and re-added the RAM, still beeps, but now with one short and a short time later what sounds like 3 very rapid beeps. What do?
>MOBO - Asus M5A78L-M/USB3 >RAM - Crucial Ballistix DDR3-1600 >GPU - GTX 960 Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
First reseat your RAM. Then just try one stick at a time and see if it boots that way. If that still doesn't work, make sure you're providing enough power to your graphics card (all power cables are plugged in) and it's seated properly.
Then try to take out the graphics card and see if it'll boot from on board graphics.
But what if I used fishing line or maybe even just twine coated in epoxy and wrapped it tight around the end in lieu of a metal ferrule? I am quite certain that fishing line is stronger than steel of equivalent thickness, and wrapped tight with epoxy would form a composite not unlike carbon fiber or some other ultra strong modern material.
And plus this would make it easy to turn the 'ferrule' portion of the handle, as it eliminates the task of precisely turning the tenon to the exact thickness of the interior diameter of a metal ferrule.
So I found the "mini metal foundry" on indestructables and elsewhere I see guides for similar foundrys. Now they all say to use a 10 quart steel pail. Now most of them say a galvanized steel pail is fine. I guess since it's insulated with the plaster and play sand the pail itself never gets hot enough? Because I know galvanized steel will fuck your shit right up if it gets hot enough with the fumes.
>>962959 excellent, good to know. DO you know how stainless steel would do? I'm not sure at what temp it gets all fucky with chromium fumes. I have an old industrial coffee thermos I was thinking about using.
I would take it down to the osb/plywood before installing the vinyl. Vinyl isn't difficult of complicated, but it can be screwed up, so why not make it easier on your self? Also, vinyl isn't water proof, so whatever goes underneath needs to be a vapour barrier like tyvek. Wind blown rain can penetrate vinyl., and if you don't have the barrier it whatever is there might not dry out for months.
I'm figuring out if I could build a Raspberry pi portable of my own and I need a little help with the screen.
I was planning on using GPIO pins for the controller, so I don't have to fit a USB controller's board in there. This means I most likely have to use the HDMI port for the screen.
The question is, how to power it all up? Can I get power through the GPIO ports or should I solder them paraller to the load port of the charger?
I'm using Pi Model A+ (because of analog audio) Most likely this screen: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2016-NEW-5-inch-Resistive-Touch-Screen-LCD-Display-HDMI-for-Raspberry-Pi-XPT2046-/262248667916 2200mAh Lithium battery and this charger: https://www.adafruit.com/products/259
>>962745 >I was planning on using GPIO pins for the controller, so I don't have to fit a USB controller's board in there. This means I most likely have to use the HDMI port for the screen. Why are you trying to make this difficult? The screen fits right on the Pi, and running a game board through the GPIOs is a mess. >The question is, how to power it all up? Can I get power through the GPIO ports or should I solder them paraller to the load port of the charger? What... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I've never built anything before, but I made a cookie tin guitar last night. I sanded and sprayed polyurethane on the neck a few hours ago, do I really have to wait 72 hours for it to dry? If it makes any difference I don't care if it looks nice, I just don't want splinters. pic isn't mine
Meh. Sure they'll hold normal bits but it's still relying on the 1/4" hex quick change which even on the best of impact drivers still has tons of wobble. As long as you don't need precision it'll be fine.
English is not my first language but I hope I can still explain this coherently.
I need to build a contraption that is fully mechanical and takes its main power from a clockwork crank thing.
There are five pushable levers (1-5) in the machine and five stepper gears (a-e).
The problem here is that I need to have the gears respond to switches being pressed. If this was an electric project I'd use a battery and slap in a few AND gates and call it a day, but this thing's different.
When switch 1 or 5 is pushed, the gears A and E step. When... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>962629 Maybe try going to a forum dedicated to mechanical computers... they used them in aircraft and ships in the 1940's during the war, there's people dedicated to restoring these machines. im sure they could help you out.
That should be easy enough. Just make buttons that increment or "step" or whatever wide enough to accept all cams connected to levers. Make weirdass cams (with like 4-5 branches to press them all at once) that press proper buttons. Profit?
Hey guys and gals, im trying to make money off creating things from scrap or other cheap materials, i have some experience in wood and metal work so any inexpensive profitable diy ideas out there? Can afford to spend a couple of hundred to expenses, + bonus points for profitable fish breeding diy
I need to replace a few body panels on my project car, I want to do this legitimately and not fiberglass and epoxy halfassing.
All the panels are fairly thin steel, body panels are slightly thicker than 18 gauge steel.
I've been looking at 115v units as I don't have a bunch of money to spend on it, there is nothing on the car a 120v unit couldn't do, and I have no access to a 240v outlet.
So far looking at the Millermatic 141, around $800. I've heard hobart and lincoln are also good, but most of them in this price range have a voltage selection switch that has 4 or 5 setting instead of an adjustable output like the Millers do.
Any other suggestions or should I start saving for the Miller 141?
I won't be using flux core, I'll probably buy a small-ish gas bottle. I need to replace both front quarter panels and fix a few rusty spots.
>>962566 The Hobart is identical to the mm 141, other than ththat fact the Miller has infinite variable dials and the Hobart has taps. Do not use straight argon. Use 75 25 other wise known as c25. Buy the Hobart 140 and don't look back.
My apartment enters directly into my kitchen and it's a mess, so I'm looking to build something to offer some storage space for hatts, mitts, etc as well as some hooks for hanging up coats. I want this to be something that will last and look somewhat decent, but I'm a noob with wood. Only thing I've ever really built was a cat tree out of 2x4's, some plywood and carpet scraps.
Dimensions aren't set in stone, something like 44" wide, 10" deep (not counting the backing) and ~20-22" tall (cubbies about half that).
Where... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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