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File: carpet.jpg (878 KB, 2513x1669) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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How plausible is it for me to lay a carpet?

Poorfag here that can afford a carpet, but not fitting.
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>>964499
I did it. It looks like shit and it was hard as fuck to do. I payed 300 for new carpet and padding in 2 15x15 rooms plus the stretching tool, blades and knives. The untrained eye cannot tell I did it, but I see it every day. When I redo it when the carpet is worn, I will pay someone. Also, the cheapest carpet is absolute SHIT at home depot. 7 months and it's already flat and worn in the walkways.
>>
Rent a carpet stretcher.
Look up how to use it.
Did a small room years ago, it wasn't too bad.
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>>964503
>Worn carpets
Take of your shoes silly American

File: furnace.jpg (78 KB, 1280x720) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Hi, /diy/. I kind of need a solution, but its still related to diy topic/subject. Basically I'm going to make one of those little furnaces to melt aluminum and copper. I basically have everything already, only thing I dont have is a crucible.

Basically I cant find a steel fire extinguisher thats 3" in diameter. I have a crucible in the mail, but its gonna be a few weeks.

One of my friends said you could use plaster for a mold, but it would be harder to transfer heat but it would still work.
I kind of need help finding out what to use for temporary...
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coffee mug, make sure it is one of the microwave safe stoneware ones pre heat it empty to 500 deg then start adding metal.
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>>964470
Stoneware is good, but make sure it *IS* stoneware. Regular glazed ceramic mugs will shatter in a furnace, causing you to lose you melt.

I am planning to build the same wood panel that is on the picture. Can anyone determine what sort of wood the panels are made of and what surface treatment it has?

Thanks,
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Same as that picture would be CGI
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>>964418
muh hogany
probably polyurethane on account of the gloss
>>
Pallet wood.

File: WIN_20160319_111448.jpg (320 KB, 1600x1200) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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So I have a tv that is bugging out. It was changing tv inputs and channels on its own. My stupid idea was that it was the physical buttons and the pcb that they were connected to in the hopes that I would still be able to use the remote to control it without the previous problem. Well I suppose the the ir controller ran through the board I took out because the remote doesn't work. Obviously I have no idea what I am doing and need help getting this tv up and running. Please help fellas.
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>>964266
>Please help fellas.
>>964300
>>
>>964266
If you damaged the ir board, there is nothing you can do to fix it, time for a new tv for you.
>>
Ir receiver is fine i think. I just disconnected from where the actual controller or it runs through the controller. Im thinking of buying a replacement of it, magnavox brand. I really dont know a lot and was hoping for some input. The physical button board is where i guess the signal is put through to the main board but id be okay with a bypass method to just make it one hdmi and a hack to turn the thing on but i might be asking for a lot.

File: granite.jpg (25 KB, 300x300) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Question for stonemasons:

How can I engrave a polished granite tile?

Can it be done with a dremel?

Also, what sort of paint can be used if I want to color the engraved text for more contrast (for outdoor use)? It's a gravestone for a good friend's pet.
4 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
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>>964181
yes, yes, any outdoor paint
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>>964181
granite is engraved with diamond tools...

a dremel would work, but diamond tools are best used wet (with water) as they tend to overheat and lose the diamond grit if you use them dry. And dremels aint waterproof.

if you had the dremel extension-cord thing you could do something here. just try to be careful to not get water up inside the cord handle.
>>
I use a router, takes a special $150 tungsten/diamond bit and has a water feed.
Granite is a bitch to shape.

Honestly I have no idea how well a dremel tool will cut granite, I have a feeling you'll burn the tool out trying.

Get a white marble tile, like Carrara marble, you can cut that with a knife and shape letters in relief with a sharp chisel... so I imagine a dremel will work too.


Go with marble, it doesn't explode like granite can.

File: 330px-Beam_generator.jpg (23 KB, 330x357) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Looking for resources, plans, or ideas for a DIY electron beam welder. Google has failed me.

Anyone?
10 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
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How big a thing do you want to weld? You basically need an electron linac.
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>>964117
Are you comfortable working with very voltage electricity, OP? Things will go very badly unless you already know what you're doing.
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>>964117
Why?

Check out RepRap's page on electron beam melting, it should have all the information you need:
http://reprap.org/wiki/MetalicaRap

apparently some polish dude built a simple, but not very great, electron beam welder:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=4OVaqTvh-pw#t=1645

Sup diy selfers, any of you guys painted bike frames? I did some (4), painted with cans. Had some problems with masking tape and clear coat. So whats your experience? I will upload more pics later
4 replies and 3 images submitted. Click here to view.
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Anon here one more
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>>963964
3M masking tape the painters stuff is my favorite. the problem i think you had, was you let the color coat dry before you removed the tape and it caused peeling. when you removed the tape? gotta remove it when it's still wet, wait like 10ish minutes after your final color to remove it.

Also, never buy color in a can that already has gloss in it. or satin. always get matte colors if you can. Matte lays smoother, doesn't orange peel, and dries faster. Plus the clearcoat is suppose to make paint look shiny, not the color

Krylons crystal clear acrylic I think would work best on bicycle frames comes in gloss, satin, and matte.. if you want something that's chemically stable, Spar urethane, its pricey tho. dries slow AF too, but is dry in 24 hours, sand able in 48. and cure to max hardness in 1 week.

as opposed to enamel clear out of a can that takes like 14 months to fkin' harden where your finger nail doesn't make a dent no more.

also self etching primer is a must of aluminum. so much better at actually stinking to it then the automotive spray primer.
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Op here, thx for comment. You have the point with the masking tape. I had some problems with orange peel but i am glad with finished result.
I will keep in mind your stuff, and try the matte collors next time.

Image have a little process of making the or the bike.

Any ideas of the powder coat diy stuff, still I neen big as hell oven...

File: 3D-Yoda.jpg (140 KB, 1600x900) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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old thread >>949924

>open source community
http://reprap.org/
http://forums.reprap.org/

>buyfag buyers guide
https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide
Any number of Reprap kits out there

>basic 3d printing FAQs
https://opendesignengine.net/projects/vg3dp/wiki (lots of useful stuff)
http://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/index

>what kind of filament do...
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Is there a real disadvantage to buying cheapo Chinese PTFE tubing? I want to replace the stuff in my current E3 head as I suspect that I am not getting a good seal.
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>>963781
lets keep it to one thread plz
>>963452

File: pirsensor.jpg (129 KB, 1200x718) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Hi everyone, (Image may be related)

So i have this little room that is used as a archive, but i doesn't have any light, and i have to use the flash of the smartphone so i can search for what i'm looking for, so i want to build a motion sensor light, i was thinking in a circuit that i could easily control the time that the light is on, and i was thinking of connecting some type of LED light.

What do you guys say?

Thank's.
10 replies and 3 images submitted. Click here to view.
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>>962919
you know you can buy a light with a pir, timer and light sensor already put together right?

what's wrong with just a normal light switch?
>>
Like >>962933 said, you're probably better off buying one already made. But then you wouldn't be on /diy.

PIR sensors are fairly cheap. If you want bare minimalism, use one of those and a 555 to add your timer function. An easier route for control though would be an Arduino that controls a relay for the light switch.
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File: 168015_ts.jpg (138 KB, 1154x1154) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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>>962919
Use this.

Or just get a stand up lamp.

File: chinese_shit.png (508 KB, 599x289) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Hello, can someone share your favourite shops from china? I would like to buy some modules in one parcel, but cant find good seller with good price/fast shipping. I prefer sellers from aliexpress, so far best seller was YLKS and A+A+A+ but they sell stuff for bigger price
4 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
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ds2313 rtc module for about 1-2 pounds.

it has an internal temperature compensated oscillator and keeps time dead on for years.
I've tried other modules that lose up to several seconds an hour.

other than that, cheap as arduino nano clones?
>>
Gearbest is decent although they dont always have all the parts. Free shipping doesnt hurt.
>>
For aliexpress, just go for listings with diamond rated sellers and check the negative reviews that aren't about not receiving the item (which is not indicative of the actual product, only the mail RNG they got or their impatience).
Never had an issue with a high rating seller. And always expect quality to be lower than listed (even if it's sometimes ends up being much higher than what you can locally at 10x the price).

Mind you it will most likely take over a month to arrive, so plan accordingly.

Thing to note is that a lot of those shops are actually...
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File: DRIVER FOR 250ma OUT.jpg (45 KB, 640x400) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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For starters, excuse my noobish questions and excuse my ignorance.
Found this tut, looks awesome, I have all the parts (for the most part) excuse the pun, but have a question in regards to the schematic. I need a laser driver that can output a constant current to the diode, according to the tut the best constant current is 1.25V. The recommendation is to utilize a LM317 with a resistor in order to output ~1.25V/R. Couldn't I just skip the LM317 and the resistor and stick in a buck converter to regulate the voltage? Like this guy:

http://www.amazon.com/DROK-DC-DC4-35Vto1-25-25V-Continuously-Adjustable-Continuous/dp/B00C9XXIHI/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1458125273&sr=8-13&keywords=buck+boost+converter

Also, anyone have any tips on creating a master-switch (on/off) that involves opening/closing a box? When the box is closed, the switch is on, when the box is open, the switch is off. I'd like to implement this so that when I do complete the laser engraver, the laser will only turn on if the box is closed, so you know, no one burns out their retina. Thank you in advance.
7 replies and 3 images submitted. Click here to view.
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File: laser_driver.png (30 KB, 1191x736) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Additional schematic.
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File: 8872057405470.jpg (5 KB, 303x171) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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>>962658
>the best constant current is 1.25V
Current is measured in amperes. Your circuit is a constant current source like you said and you can't replace it with a 1.25V constant voltage supply. It uses 1.25V as an internal reference voltage for setting the output current.

Dunno about that buck converter. It might be suitable when used in constant current mode, or not.

A microswitch might be suitable for safety.
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>>962663
Thanks for the microswitch tip. Also, thank you for the correction. I always confuse myself with amps and voltage.

File: 1.jpg (569 KB, 2592x1456) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Looking for advice/tips.

a few weeks ago an old man gave me a 60 inch plasma tv for free because he was throwing it away due to the screen shutting off after 20 minutes of use. I opened it up today, plugged it in and could hear a humming/buzzing noise coming from the item circled in the picture.

I dont have an electrical tester, but i do have a soldering iron, the only repair ive ever done was change some capacitors in my other tv. the parts for this tv range from 30 dollars to 200 dollars and all seem to be used. any repair thoughts before ordering replacement...
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File: 2.jpg (2 MB, 1754x1264) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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File: 3.jpg (568 KB, 2592x1456) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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>>962182
just attach some fans to it. its overheating. the transformer is meant to buzz. its how they work.

File: will_it_blend.jpg (74 KB, 570x570) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Hello everyone! :)

I have been making mason jars with highlights for some time now - I really like pattern design and applying my patterns to glassware is definitely "my thing". However, none of my work looks as good as it could do because the glass i typically use is either clear, or a single (usually too bright) colour. Ideally I would paint the glass to get whatever effect i'm going for with the piece. Then I could make something like what's in the OP.

Does anyone know what sort of paint would do this? Im worried that if i splash out on expensive...
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Thin some translucent (clear) acrylic paint, or get the lightest medium (as in base) acrylic and tint to your needs. set up a lazy susan turntable jawn and use a decent sized brush. multiple coats or multiple colors. think nail polish fo yo gos toes
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you need some Pebeo Vitrea glass paint. it has the look you're after. then, some color mixing will give you the fading effect you want.
>>
>>961125
>>961113

Thank you both so much! I'll get right on it :D :D

How can i paint something to look like this?

Metallic copper, thin coat of candy red and a black wash is my best guess so far.
30 replies and 14 images submitted. Click here to view.
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File: large.jpg (95 KB, 1280x1024) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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>>964611
i think that image was wrongly color corrected, this is closer to what i want.

A metallic red-orange
>>
Stick it up your butt
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>>964614
that was defo done with either rattle cans or an airbrush. you can tell its just some basic distressing on the markings/cracks with a foam brush. looks to me like, primer, a light orange base color, the redish/copper like color, then foam brushed in the distressed marks. as far as the color goes, you're just gonna have to find your favorite paint supplier and look for a color close to it. maybe contact the maker of it VIA email and just asked what they used...

File: raw-wood-barrel_2.jpg (250 KB, 1471x1000) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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What's the cheapest way to make a watertight wood barrel?

I was thinking straight walls would be much easier than curved ones. Less profiling to do on the planks.

And what about hoops? Making metal hoops seems like it would be too much work and too pricey, probably cheaper to buy some than get the tools to make some. What could you use as a substitute? This barrel has wooden hoops but I don't think I'd trust that. What about hoops made from manila rope? Tightened with a wench and whatever knot is best?
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File: img-thing.png (54 KB, 300x300) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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idunno if it's plausible to cooper yourself a barrel. from what i understand it takes a lot of skill/practice and just the right tools and experience. it's long tradition that took centuries to perfect, idunno if you'll be able to just make it up as you go along anon
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>>963337
Rip a 12 degree along the side of board. Chop up board into 12 to 16 parts. Lay boards out on tape - sticky side up. Apply glue to joints and roll your lay up into a circle. Cut out appropriatey sized bottom and glue to your cylinder. Apply resin to inside.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjSqfgLJayw
>>
>>963342

Not really, the secret is to have a lot of jigs and work with well seasoned wood. You can watch videos of people doing it on YouTube.

I don't think I'd want to make commercial quantities of barrels, just a few to age booze in if my brewing hobby takes me into producing artisan quantities.

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