I plan on building a dry stone hut or shieling (pic related) as they are known in my neck of the woods. I was wondering if anyone here has any good sources of information on dry stone constuction or better yet has first hand experience and can give me some tips an advice.
Right now what my plan entails is and interior area of 2 by 2.5 metres witha fire place and chimmney.
So, I moved into a new place and it doesn't have a dishwasher. Its an old house so theres no space to put a built-in. Plus it would be a ton of work and the cabinets are very nice so I don't want to fuck them up, but its a very nice size kitchen. Plenty of floor space to have a freestanding dishwasher like they used back in the day (pic related). Problem is I can't seem to find just a freestanding dishwasher. They are either meant to be built-in, are undersized 'portable' models on wheels or are tiny little counter top models made for forever alones. Do they not make these anymore? And I searching for the wrong terms?
What sort of wattage is appropriate for an microwave beam with a maximum focal range of 50 feet? I have a standard 800W rated microwave to disassemble, looking to deter animals that keep wandering around my property without killing them.
>What's your favorite tool/s? 9" linesman pliers, have used them in so many situations, always find more use >What's your latest purchase? Just got the rockwell bladerunner x2, its plastic, but has gotten good reviews, plus i dont have room for real tools... >What are you thinking of buying? I need a stick welder >Which tools do you dream to own? Everything in a metal shop, fingers crossed to work in one starting in a month >Whats your workspace look like? 4' wide hallway, only bad thing about the city, no space. >What's your favorite stuff to work on? im an electrician by trade, love splicing runing wires. Also anything to do with wood or metal. So soothing. Threaded black iron pipe yesterday on a RIDGID 300, was fun af can't believe i got paid to do that.
>>982889 >oh boy another tool brand war thread hopefully tonight we can act like adults. Not going to lie, i do love milwaukee, partly because of their color scheme and logo, also im an electrician and primarily use their hand tools, measuring tape and snips are GOAT desu. However,m i don't let it dictate what i buy, especially if it's corded, i research all the tools i buy before doing so. Will generally buy refurbished when i can. bosch js260 not a scratch $50 bosch sander $50 milwaukee 12 amp sawzall $40 beat to shit, but being demolition tool , i suppose its meant to be...
Pic related, the blade runer x2. I bought it because it replaces a chop saw, tabIe saw, jigsaw as well as being ablew to cut all materials id need it too. looks gimmicky but hopefdully it will serve my needs between table saw cuts and metal pipe cuts, and if i ever ned it for a job. Thoughts on it? Review of tool https://www.youtube .com/watch?v=r7l_Hdv9pDY
>live with parents >we have a symbiotic relationship with me staying >live in room right over the garage >one air vent >computer science major so computers everywhere >play games so consoles everywhere >hot as fuck in my room
Was looking at some portable air conditioners but I'm not sure what I'm looking for. Any recommendations or advice?
Are we talking symbiosis as in tiny-bird-cleaning-reptilian-maw, or "symbiosis" as in "hey, you've got blood to spare, just gonna park my ass here and try not to tickle TOO much?"
How light a sleeper are you, and how well can you tune out noise? My friend had a modest, name-brand portable air conditioner and it was like a goddamned leafblower. You might be better off a window cracked open about a quarter of the way, a small tower fan oscillating in your general direction, and a cheap box fan doing its business from a good distance away. Far cheaper in both initial cost and lifetime cost, and quieter unless you're sensitive to the drone of a fan.
We have a vented clothes dryer (Euroanon here) and the electricity cord gets hot after use. What could be the problem? Bad vent system? Some old/faulty condensator? The whole thing? I just want some opinions before I haul that huge thing to a service center.
>>992422 How many watts is it pulling down? Lot of this stuff with the cord getting hot could be that the connectors in the socket (wall) are old and shitty, or the cord itself has some kind of problem where the wires have been kinked and broken.
Could someone tell me what the black long piece is? I think its a capacitor, the two pink wires connect on the electrode. My problem is that the intensity of the lighting dropped down a notch after playing around with it. How could I augment the output of power for the raser?
What's the most efficient way to remove all the wood inside the square marked 3 here? I basically need a square-shaped hole.
I have a router but the wood is pretty thick. I attempted another hole in that same piece of wood and after many passes with the router, I found that I still have a centimeter of material at the bottom. I would route from the other side to complete the hole, but I can't figure out how to mirror the exact coordinates of the hole on the flipside (the edges of this board aren't straight because reasons).
I'm... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>991986 That's my last resort :\ like I said I plan on doing more of this in the future so I would just like to know what the most efficient way to do this would be. If that's a hammer and chisel I'll do it, but I have to imagine there's a less time-consuming method out there.
>>991983 Do you have a drill? Drill through the corners, connect with layout lines on the other side, route that. Or get a pattern router bit, plunge through with your first bit somewhere in the half completed hole, then use the pattern bit. They have a roller bearing on the bottom that will follow the opening you've already created. Personally, I'd use a 1" chisel.
My sister gave me this old radio/recordplayer to both fill up my apartment and so I have something to work on if I'm bored and have some spare time. I had electronics as my main course in highschool, but it's 2 years ago since I graduated and began my apprenticeship which doesn't include working on smaller electronics so I've forgotten most of it except the easier stuff like switches, lights, sockets etc.
>How should I proceed with checking and testing components without killing myself? >No experience... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>991857 >How should I proceed with checking and testing components without killing myself? If you have to ask...
On a scale from 0 to 10 how well does it work? Not at all or does it at least turn on? Also interior pictures might help. Most old radios like this will have at least a basic schematic taped somewhere on inside, if it has not been removed. >Should I sand it down and put some oil on it? Unless you have experience refurbishing furniture... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>991857 Dude, this is a Philips battlestation from th 50's.
Tho phono on the right area seems to be of a pick-up kind : BEWARE those heads are fragile like hell, and working ones are very hard to source nowadays.
Your phono looks like a AG1000 chassis (see AG1004, AG1006 and last but not least AG1100 whose colour seems close enough to yours), fitted with a AG3016 head.
First of all you can check if the pick-up still work by extracting the chassis from the wooden cabinet (4 screws at each angle of the turntable) they look for the two/three wires coming out the arm.
Your mileage may vary : either you will end with two bananas or two RCA, but at least you would be able to connect your phono to an actual amp insofar it as a RIAA compatible input.
Consider checking the phono part first, it's fucking easy, and some WD40 sprayed on the gears can't be that bad.
The radio part is another subject : those old bastards runs with kV voltages, like CRT tubes TV. And capacitors vanishes with time, so powering that beast without checking them may sound like instakill... tldr; Replace each capacitor with modern counterpart, if same voltage is not available, take upper one.
Checking filament status is easy : proceed lamp per lamp. Remove each lamp using a towel so your finger doesn't mark the glass and/or remove markings, then look the interweb for matching datasheet so you figure out which pins are for filament, then beep them with your multimeter's continuity function. No beep ? try applying the right voltage and check if lamp lights. No beep AND no light, then dead tube : keep it for reference and order a new one (if too pricy, check for soviet new old stock tubes, they usualy have cross reference for ridiculous prices)
Hope I've helped...
Source : I own a Philips AG1114, and messed with some tubes radio when young :)
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