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I want to make a small internal combustion engine. A bore of maybe 1" to give you an idea of the scale. I've made several models in Solidworks and 3D printed them before, so I'm familiar with the construction of all the moving parts.

But is there any recommended reading on construction of a carburetor? I understand how they work, that's not what I'm talking about. I mean given the displacement of my engine, is there a simple way to calculate an optimal diameter for the carb bore and fuel nozzle?
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>>992975
>A bore of maybe 1"
So a 5 horse briggs
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>>992975
Home shop machinist forums and model aircraft forums would be good sources of information. The bore you want is similar to some larger engines for model aircraft. Copy their carbs.
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>>992975
maybe just buy a cheap one meant for a 100-200cc engine and adapt it?

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>watching videos of ppl making "cheap alternatives to an AC unit" that involves spending nearly $100 for the actual contraption then only taking the cost of the fan running on high and loud as fuck into the cost affect and not the fact that you have to run your freezer to keep making ice, then manually emptying several gallons of water out every hour or so while not spilling it and the only air in the room that is cool is the area immediately infront of the fan (one guy literally holds his thermal gun to the side showing its almost 90, then WOW...
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Yeah, it is silly. I wish the Fed.gov would fund more research into phase change AC alternatives instead of banning known good refrigerants.
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>>992720
As a poor fuck who can't survive over 75 degree temps without AC, I understand your frustration.
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>>993745
Have you looked into a swamp cooler? It wouldn't work if you live in a humid place but beyond that it's pretty close to AC.

Hey diy

Apprentice plumber here,
Just throwing an idea out there.

The main level of my house gets quite cold,
I was thinking about pulling a line off the hot water tank and running sort of a wild loop in the joist space.

Would something like that be possible?

Or would the water just sit in the pipe and not circulate at all?

Any ideas?

Thanks fellas
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>>992688
My house is heated with radiators that use hot water running through pipes. It uses a bigass furnace that isn't connected to the water heater though, I doubt that a water heater would have enough juice to do the same. Plus you need to regulate the temp and pump the water through.
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>>992688
They make timed water circulators you can put on the hot out, and it will circulate hot water whenever you have the time set to come on throughout the day.
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>>992688
Calculate the number of BTUs needed to heat a room

How many BTUs can your water heater put out

Not enough.

There are radiant floor systems specifically designed for this kind of workload.

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got some dismantled old desk that I don't need, so I'm thinking of using the boards to make some cool shelves or something, so I'm listening to ideas
pic related, it'w what I'm working with
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>>992562
burn them
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>>992574
very helpful cunt
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Go make some cool shelves, OP. Hopefully it'll be a learning process for you and fuels more creativity. Make something you'll at least be using, so it doesn't go to waste.

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I have here a fucked D-Link DSL-500B ADSL modem. It can't connect properly because it's 8 years old and the capacitors leaked. What can I do with it, besides throwing it away?
>pic related
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fix it
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>>992459
The acid that leaked did not damaged the circuits?
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Looks perfectly serviceable to me.

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I’m looking to enter a trebuchet in a (raw) egg throwing competition, rules state “A team of players construct a gravity powered machine based upon the ancient trebuchet design. The base of the legs is restricted to 2 square metres (outriggers may protrude beyond this). The power source must be contained within a 9 litre container.
I have a few weeks to do this and I have a decent amount of space to test, looking for ideas as to how I can calibrate it to fire set distances, do I just have various marked start heights for the counterweight or would I need to adjust the...
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>>992350
I've built smaller trebuchets before. There are rules of thumb that you can look up for proportions that should get you in the ballpark. You should probably use a pullcord trigger, which would be easy to rig for specific spots for set distances.

Some fiddly stuff you should be prepared for: For best performance, a trebuchet should be "tuned". This means that the payload, counterweight, arm lengths, and sling are all working optimally together, and virtually all of the counterweight's gravitationally...
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170kg of tungsten is around 20 000 dollars.... steel and lead are more feasible. The sling pouch design will the most critical part as it needs to distribute the acceleration forces evenly on the egg and release the egg cleanly so it doesn't break up at that point. Its definitely going to take some time to optimize the machine for maximum range.
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>>992375
>170kg of tungsten is around 20 000 dollars
You didn't give a budget. Some people spend lots of money on competitions like this.

>The sling pouch design will the most critical
Probably not. I've never had any issues with any slings. Most any soft material will not break the egg (trebuchet accelerations are very gentle as catapults go), and unless the sling grips the egg like a glove (it shouldn't - cup it just enough so the egg doesn't...
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The red parts are 18 gauge (1,2mm) 20mmx20mm tubing and the green ones are 40mm x 40mm (also 18 gauge).

I'd also probably bolt it to the floor to add stability.
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Dimensions.
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>>992274
Well, since you never asked a question in your post, I'll just stick to pointing out that this is a terrible design.

You have absolutely nothing on it which will make it the least bit stable. Put some form of bracing on it, otherwise all of the legs are going to rotate and twist with respect to each other. Put crossbracing (diagonals) connecting the legs together in the long direction, and at least put cross bracing on each end in the small direction.

Also, the bar you have connecting the legs together near the bottom is the least efficient option you could have. The bar isn't making the legs any stiffer, you should really have two bars, one on either side.

If it's fully welded, it will have some stiffness, and might get the job done for what you need it to do (maybe) but it is still a bad design. You could get the same stiffness at a fifth of the weight if you make it better.

Sorry if that sounds harsh, but if you are considering bolting it down, it sounds like you need it to be good, and the bottom line is this needs work.
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I think it's overkill unless you're gonna be taking apart a V8 on it or something, but as anon says
>You could get the same stiffness at a fifth of the weight if you make it better.

Hey, what papier maché recipe do you guys use? Which do you think is most effective?

I am torn between using just flour and water, or using corn starch and water. I am Canadian and cannot buy liquid corn starch for reasons unknown.

And should I spray my work with acrylic sealant before painting?
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>>992163
Plaster and water. Or maybe joint compound and water (I've seen it cheaper than plaster).

Both will be cheaper and stronger than either of your options, and will last longer.
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Google stolloween ffs!
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>>992163
use flour or corn starch only for a VERY short-term project. Like, a few days, a week at most....
Once the bugs find it, there will be no stopping them and you will have to throw the whole thing out.

And I thought that corn starch was solid?... I am USA and work for a grocery store chain, and don't ever remember seeing liquid corn starch
besides, you can just add water to it anyway.

pic unrelated

I would like to make a bedframe with storage in it, like picture related (but not the god awful color). It will be for a single (twin) size bed. I want the cubbies to to go all the way through, from one side to the other, across the bedframe. I want to be able to store some rather long boxes in there so they will need to be at least 10 inches wide, 13 inches tall and however deep a mattress is wide. I would like the cubbies to not have any obstructions inside of them but I am concerned this will weaken the design and cause it to rack on me over time. Will have the single 'open'...
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maybe I'm missing something but why wouldnt you just build a normal bedframe and store the boxes underneath?
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>>992162
I like the look better. Also my floors are carpet and the boxes wouldn't be as easy to slide around. They are that multilevel carpet stuff that was popular in the 70's and 80's. Thats what I do now and its causing the boxes to come apart. They are only made of cardboard. Picture related.
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>>992156
this is the IKEA FLAXA

no dividers, just 3 walls and a single, huge open space.

The walls are 1" particleboard (MDF) and its plenty to support the weight of 2 people.

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Hi diy,
im trying to draw arcs with 2 stepper motors attached to an X and Y axis, the arc must be drawn from point A to B in a cartesian plane, given the starting and endpoint point coordinates.

The problem is that i cant figure out how to tell the motors how to get the arc divided in lots of steps. (im using an arduino)

help this peasant diy. :l
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>>991979
Was it really too much effort to check if your old thread still existed?
>>990730
>>
I'm not sure I understand your goal. Are you using 2 stepper motors to move a point in a Cartesian plane from a given starting and to a given ending point?

Adafruit has a motor shield and library for controlling steppers that you could use. You really don't even need that though if you understand how steppers work and can get an H-bridge (L293 I believe is a good general purpose one).
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>>991979
>>991979
First thing that comes to mind is that two points do not make an arc on a plane. You need three points at least.

Take a look at the attached image, that's called midpoint integration. It does something different, but it gives you a nice set of vertical and horizontal lines that approximate the curve. The denser the rectangles, the closer the approximation of the curve. When they get really dense it'll stop looking like a bunch of corners and...
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Is it better to build your own house if you want to live in a very rural middle-of-no-where area?

I'm thinking of moving to Montana, but most of the houses are either really overpriced or they look like shacks and almost all of the properties are way too close to towns. I want to live somewhere that's far enough away from other people that I can just be left alone to shoot on my property at any time without bothering other people.

I'm thinking of just buying some land and going with something that's cheap, sturdy, and easy to build. I've...
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1st of all I'm not an expert, but why do you want to build cement house? Do you plan to move there permanently? I'm not sure if this type of house wuld be a nice place to be in, I would feel like in a bunker.

Maybe think about building log cabin first?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QHXNWJj8cus
>>
Ferrocement is bitchass, just make sure it's covered in good insulation against damp, both ground and ceiling/walls
Loads of windows a must (roofs included) - you will need LOTS of light not to feel like in a burrow.

Also, consider this - http://earthship.com/
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-UawJo5blU&list=PL3F06C35DB74DBD2D

Build a cabin

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Ok so I wanna make this bonfire like "zen-garden" style, and the only thing I don't know how to do is the sword or the iron from the bonfire. Any suggestions?

For the fire I was thinking of hot coloured glue, but I?m open to suggestions.
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Close-up
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>>991970
>>991973

Why do we have so many autistic dark souls item crafting build requests.

It's just some fucking stone. The sword will turn black and rust. Good luck making the sword.
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>>991970
Make a sword with a nail, see this https://youtu.be/ii0C3j1ZZvk

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Hello /diy/ I just want to know some things about how to put aluminum together, like how would i cut it and bracket it ect. I want to make a diy pc test bench for myself out of a shitty case i have. any ideas?
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Tig weld or rivet.
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>>991896
The joints on an aluminium computer case are usually done with rivets, it's probably the easiest way to do it (just drill a hole in the two pieces, get a rivet gun and put it in) but it's semi permanent (you can drill them out, but can't undo them like a screw or bolt)

As for making the form, the tool usually used to bend aluminium sheeting is called a "Brake" but it might be a bit costly for you, especially if you only want it for this project, you might be able to rent one or find a...
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>>991950
It would probably be more economical for OP to design a case in CAD and get it fabbed instead.

I plan on doing something like that over the next few weeks for my own things.

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Sup DIY?

I'm looking to build a workshop on a property I own. Space isn't a concern but I'm building a new building so cost is. I need a place where I can do build furniture as big as a table. How big should my workshop be?
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At least 10x20 ft, I'd go for 20x20ft at a minimum if you're building furniture.
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as big as you can afford and legally allowed.

You can build tables in normal sized garages, it's all about space management.
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>>991887
Could you elaborate? Why do I need more than 20 by 20?

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Hey /diy/ I am rebuilding my Mendel90 3d printer frame. The creator of the mendel90 has variants made of acrylic,dibond, and MDF. Due to ridiculous price of acrylic and dibond and the fact I don't have a laser cutter I made mine out of MDF. And let me tell you do I fucking hate particle board more so than ever now. Practically every part that screws into the wood has stripped or become very loose. I plan to rebuild it using oak plywood. Now as far as I can tell no one has made the mendel90 (wood version) out of anything but MDF, is there a reason? The Plywood looks like...
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You're not supposed to screw into the wood. Use machine screws and nuts.

Also your MDF frame is better than acrylic.

Wood stain won't help with warping caused by plywood. It will warp no matter what you do.
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>>991674
According to the Build of Materials the guy who designed it uses wood screws to go into the MDF

Will it warp even with indoor humidity and temperature? How badly? Minimal warping can be compensated with recalibration
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>>991690
instead of rebuilding can't you just drill out the screw hole areas and pound in threaded inserts and machine screws. if everything else is fine with the machine and there are possible drawbacks to using plywood such as warping then it's probably easier to just fix the issue with the mdf, no?

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