Where can I get steel plate for general cut/weld diy stuff. Thinking of 3/16" hot roll plate 4' x 8' for starters, maybe 11gauge cold roll would be cheaper though. My company buys from Samuel in Houston once every few months for various projects, so I could probably place a small order and pay with my CC, but I don't want to call and be a "whats the cheapest option you have available right now" douche...
I order my steel using email for quotes and only call them to pay for the order via cc. Email seems to be the best way for us small fries because we're not on the phone with a sales rep for half an hour for a sub $1000 order.
Honestly this is barely worth starting a new thread, but I wanted some input from you guys.
Since last thread I have replaced my home made wrist and elbow seals with some cheap Chinese silicone drysuit seals. I now have a workable vacuum seal on the gauntlet.
Next step is figuring out how to mount the heatsink and pressure gauge through the PVC pipe while maintaining a good seal.
I haven't done anything like this before so I've got a few ideas for you guys to tear apart before I waste time and materials testing them.
A quick run down for those not familiar with my project, the aim is to create a highly portable medical device which will dynamically manage a person's core body temperature when climate, required PPE/activity, and/or medical conditions would have resulted in hyperthermia/heatstroke.
It achieves this using a peltier cooler applied to a heatsink in direct contact with the skin, along with a partial vaccum chamber to prevent local vasoconstriction under the heatsink.
I want to build a skin-on-frame kayak (pic related), and I'm looking for a suitable (and cheap) material to build the frames. Usually, marine plywood is used for this. However, this is not locally available, and shipping cost would almost double the price, which is just ridiculous.
So I'm looking for a suitable alternative (if there is one).
One thing I have tried, I kid you not: I glued together three scrap pieces of high density fiberboard to the desired thickness, made a frame from that and tested how strong it was. I put it on two pieces of lumber and jumped around on it. To my surprise, it hardly budged. Now this would be an incredibly cheap way to do this, and it seems to work well enough (I'd have to seal it somehow, I guess), but it also is an incredibly stupid way to do it.
>>993818 Yes, I'm aware of that. However, the process of gluing those pieces of HDF together was just some wild experiment I did because there was nothing else around. It's highly unpractical.
I'm interested in alternatives that come in the desired thickness (1/2 inch) and are comparable in strength to marine ply. Water resistance isn't really an issue since I can just treat it, like you suggested.
Hey /diy/, I'm about to make a clay pot dedicated to 4chan out of pure dirt. I've been clearing it out of grass, sticks, rocks, etc. I haven't made one since high school so imma bit rusty. Are their any dos and don'ts along with protips that you can provide. P.S Imma post the whole process on this thread.
I fucking love this stuff. Every two weeks I spray it on both the soil and the plants and they just explode. Even with my super crowded garden my yield is going to be amazing. I already have about 30 sunbursts on the vine and my heirloom tomatos should be sprouting any day now. Is there a better product? Everybody I have talked too swears by this.
hey guys, I have a problem with my shingle, pic related, anyways, somehow, one of them cracked a little and was raised, I noticed this because I went to check my roof after I found water leaking in through my roof , I'm planning to replace it myself, I've read a few tutorials on the internet, and already have a general idea of how to, I don't have any actual experience though. are there things I should avoid? anyone have any tips?
I've got a small jack hammer in need of oil. The manual says I need 40# Rotella oil, but i can't find it anywhere except online, and I don't want to order a big jug of it. I asked around and was recommended to use Rotella 15w 40 instead. My question is, will it make much of a difference, or will I fuck up the tool?
Thanks for your help.
Pic related. Harbor freight, i know. They had no idea how to help me.
so i think i mixed my resin wrong, im making a small teardrop bead with a bee i found encased in the middle, this isnt the first bug ive encased, but its the first one ive done that was so small. Normally its done by now, but it isnt, and i was wondering if i mixed it wrong, missed some kind of step, or if smaller things cure slower.
>>1003399 You can apply a little extra heat. Epoxy is one of those things that cure with heat. Just leave it in in a container on the dash of your car out in the sun. (or wrap in foil. Uv will fuck epoxy unless its got blockers)
i've stretched a transparent greenhouse tarp on a frame and i need to paint it. the tension is even rendering the surface less prone to any deformation. problem is, it's nearly impossible to make paint adheres to polyethylene-type plastic, and at some point, i need to use a very soft kind of painter tape to delimit an area. also, at some other point, i need to apply a certain type of acrylic using a paint roll.
i've resorted to painting some parts of it with basic white spray paint, which adheres better than acrylic applied with a roll.... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Got this old Pratt & Whitney 16" x 54" lathe hooked up. Set the feed rate to 60 TPI (slow as it goes) and engaged power feed on a light surface pass on a rod of crap hot rolled, and lo and behold terrible surface finish. I think it's feeding too fast.
Any ideas why? No I'm not using the half nut as a power feed.
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