Hey I just bought a new home, and after construction is about finished, I noticed that my property slopes away form the house a little more than I expected (I know it has to slope away a little to help with drainage, but see attached. My question boils down to weather or not I am being too picky, or is it worth it to regrade it a little before I fence in the yard. I am a newbie to landscaping, so go easy on me. Thanks!
I have never seen one that is thru-hole/board mount (like OP pic) that had more than 24 pulses. They wear out relatively quickly too, and don't move smooth because they have detents in them.
There are rotary encoders pretty cheap on the China sites. Looking fast I didn't find any with 128 steps per turn, most are 100, 200, 400 or 600 steps. If you got a 400-step one then you could just use 3 pulses of the encoder as one 'actual' pulse, that would take 384 pulses on the encoder--which is pretty close to one actual turn.
Do note: the types... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>968941 >Figure $400-$500 at least, for just a 128-pulse unit. Okay,,, I was a bit high in that estimate. Here is an Omron-brand 256-pulse absolute encoder at Mouser for "only" $301 http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omron-Automation-and-Safety/E6CP-AG3C-256-2M/?qs=TwPrcXezm71FKQKJ%252bh0w3g%3D%3D
Omron makes a lot of different rotary encoders, but (looking on their website) the 256-pulse one is the lowest-pulse-count absolute one they appear to make.
A $12 China... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>968898 You can have 128 positions or any other arbitrary number using a 24 step per rotation rotary encoder. A rotary encoder turns continuously and you keep track of position in code. You can count as high as you like before rolling over. You'll have to do multiple full rotations to go from 0-127, but that's fine if you show the number on something like an LCD display instead of printed on the panel behind the knob.
>>968716 So without ANY kind of support under it? You will have to hang it from the wall or from the ceiling. Particle board will sag like a motherfucker under its own weight without support, let along with whatever will be on your desk. Even plywood or real wood will do the same with time and weight.
Hi /diy/ Are electronics hit by lightning salvageable in any way ? I have his receiver or whatever it is here and it was supposedly hit by lightning, but I can't see any visual damage like blown caps, any idea how I can start troubleshooting without damaging the equipment beyond the damage that's already been done or killing myself ? Pic related, psu of device
These are called varistors. They are usually connected directly at the mains. Some times in series with a shunt resistor. When high transients occur, it will route it back, so your circuits are safe.
When the transients have more energy than usual, the varistor will break. And most of the time if it breaks it will stay shorted.
Measure the resistance across the varistor. If it is low (5k is still low) it has blown. Desolder the varistor and measure the resistance again. If the resistance is high, you are safe to plug your circuit in the mains and check... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>967903 Don't confuse the varistor (connected in parallel with the mains) with an inrush current limiting device like a NTC thermistor which will be connected in series with the mains and should have a relatively low resistance (like 5 ohms). They are in very similar packages.
Usually copper is pretty solid and stands the test of time. What do you mean by damaged? Just a section or the whole pipe its self? Need more specifics. Also yes, pex does require special tools to make the fitting connections.
>>967212 pex is also much more expensive than copper. and it will break down with exposure to the sunlight. it has its place. and its easier to use if you can buy fittings in bulk and need to thread a pipe through a wall. copper works well though.
if you just have some pinhole leaks just buy a new section of copper pipe and solder it in.
So I've just got a kit with cutting, heating, welding tips, hoses, regulators, etc. My main question is about the tanks themselves, as well as actual welding methods.
>better to buy or rent the tanks? >what size tanks are good for most average general use, cutting once in awhile and welding once in awhile? >where to buy or acquire weld rods? I've heard of people using bicycle spokes and other random shit like clothes hangers. >want to try... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Hey /diy/, first time posting, but I have this tomohawk thats in need of renovation.
So it's a pipe hawk that my uncle gave me when i was 12 to smoke weed out of, and its served me well so far, but got gunked up. So i took it upon myself to boil it in hopes of getting all the resin out of it, and make it useful again.
This resulted in a wooden stem that's dried up so much that it has new air holes, and a metal bowl/blade that looks like its been left outside for the last 200 years.
how do I go about making it look good again? pic related is what... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>966518 this will... do what exactly? will it help the wood, the metal, or both? also how long will it stay fixed? I already tried scrubbing the metal, but as soon as it dries it just goes back to looking like this, Except with fingerprints and watermarks
and how do I keep the water warm for two days straight?
I think that if you somehow managed to make a cilindrical ingot of copper, you could make a rock anvil, scratch a straight shallow line, and hammer the ingot down into that line, until the wire traps inside
For those who might not be aware, this is a tv series about the zombie apocalypse and one of the characters plans to set up an ammo manufactory and to that end, plans to renovate the small shop shown in the following pics.
>Power buffer i've spent my whole adult life fucking about with with nylon and wire brushes, polishing cloths and nasty rubs and noxious liquid polishes. busting my knuckles and ballsack and still ending-up with sub-par work.
finally spent $50 on a HF buffer/stand and don't i feel like a dumbass. i love it <3
I've been thinking of building a hybrid cpu cooler by drilling into the heaptipes of a cheap air cooler and using a cheap $3 pump off eBay for better cpu cooling. Has anyone tried anything like this before? Any advice before I start ordering things in?
The cooler will be something like pic related, the water will pass through the copper heatpipes.
>>965132 If you don't know what hard water is or haven't noticed weird things like white residue all over your laundry or how you can never get your car clean because the water itself leaves stains that are almost impossible to remove when dry then yes.
>>965132 Ever see someone jump off a bridge or something and hit the water hard? Always happens in natural bodies of water like lakes. Water softening is used in community pools where diving boards are involved.
I'm not sure if this should be on /diy/ or /ck/, but I need help making some fake bones; enough to produce a rough approximation of a human skeleton.
Back story: my brother and I do Sunday night dinner together most weeks as a way to keep up with each other. We alternate turns cooking each week. Over a couple of years, we've both developed some decent cooking and presentation skilz, and have tried to out do each other several times. Easter is going to be my next turn.
Suffice it to say, neither of us are religious people. Even still, I'm planning a religious themed easter dinner. Basically, I want to build a human corpse to represent jesus, and then the different courses would be served from the corpse directly. For example, I want to cut the head open with a dremel (largely for show, not much real cutting) and remove the 'brain' to serve as a pate and crackers course. I want to slice in to the abdomen (and a plastic bag concealed within) and scoop out the contents to serve as a Ramen with mixed vegetable course. Etc...
Anyway, I have this recipe for 'fauxtex' which will make plenty of fake skin to cover the corpse with. I really just need an easy and cheap way to make the skeleton. I don't even need a whole skeleton; I'm thinking just a long spine section, the rib cage, and the pelvis. The serving area is only so big. I already have a plastic skull that I can make the head out of.
I guess my real question is how can I make the rib cage and pelvis? It has to be accuratly shaped enough so that when you drape the fake skin over it, the final appearence is real enough. Can I make some plaster of Paris casts for the ribs? Can I use animal bones avaliable at the butcher? Can I do a little of both and fuse them together somehow? I looked up plastic skeletons that I could disassemble, but the cheapest one that looked like it would do the job was $100 and out of stock. I tried party city, but they don't have anything Halloween at this time of year.
Wet some pasta and let it dry out. If you want, get a balloon mold of sorts and wrap the pasta around it so the ribcage sits nice and evenly. You might need to make a frame for the pelvis(with pasta of course) and drape large areas with pasta sheets. If you're serving them with something wet, you can try putting foil or cling film as a layer between the food and the bones, or wrap the bones themselves.
I don't have any great suggestions for you as this is out of my limited /diy/ realm but I just came here to say your idea is awesome and so are you. I really hope you post pics of your progress and the result, I want to see this more than liam hemsworth's dick (which is a LOT btw)
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