please help im really fucking sick and i clogged my toilet. In any other situation i would use the plunger but i barely have the strenght to stand up. I have nobody to call for help so i bought some liquid plumber shit, only thing in the store thing is its designed for sinks, it states dump half the bottle wait 15 minutes and apply hot water, repeat if necesary, it removes grease, hair and other organics. Is this safe for my toilet? should i apply less than half the bottle? all i want to do is take a shit and sleep for two days pic not related
Odd are it's lye, you don't want to put that in a toilet. It will generate heat and can crack the porcelain, plus there is a splash danger (you think you feel like shit /now/ add in some nice chemical burns).
I'm making a device to scare off moles. The idea is to have a vibrating component attached to a PVC pipe, which should amplify the vibrations, stick it in the ground and let it work its magic.
Right now I'm at the electronic part. I was thinking of an astable multivibrator which will drive a vibrator module I got from an old phone, with pots for pause and vibration duration control. Pic related
The transistors will be 2n3904, capacitors 1mF, R1 and R4 470 Ohm resistors, R2 a 1kOhm resistor and a 2.5MOhm trimmer pot in series, for pause duration control, and R3 again a 1kOhm resistor and a 15kOhm trimmer pot for vibration duration control.
Any reasons this wouldn't work? Any tips? Also, what voltage should I power this with?
>>1023278 Your circuit is notorious for touchiness. Most of the time it will work but if you change the load usually it will fuck up. Try simulating it, I have never seen it simulated first time because it relies on imperfections. An alternative would be a 555 timer circuit. If you want to learn build both. If you just want your problem solved then don't build either because your plan is insane. In theory the supply voltage would match whatever motor you used however if it draws too much current you will... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I'm looking for some nut drivers (I think that's how they're commonly referred now), I've known them as tek bits also.
Basically 1/4 bits for an impact driver, for hex headed screws.
I have many that are magnetic, a little magnet in the centre of the bit to retain the screw.
I had one that I'd like to replace, it was in my drill case when it was stolen. It didn't have a magnet and was for stainless steel screws, it basically had a metal ring around the outside that acted like a spring clip to hold the screw... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1023019 I have prefab one at home, been using it for the last 10 years, here in east europe they sell them for around $ 40 new, you can melt almost any metal with them, things like bronze are easy peasy and if you want to work with steel etc, still okeish it gets it pink hot, a lot of electricity consumption tho, which gets to the point that you are asking for the gas powered ones, that I have no experience with, but they will work for sure, its up to you to keep the maintenance right and take good care of it.
So I have read a bunch of books on door construction and I have finally come up with my own design for a somewhat sound proof door (RwDB=40db).
My idea was to glue a frame of 27mm or 18mm plywood (=VP(blue)) onto a sheet of 18mm VP. The recess in the center would be filled with 27mm/18mm MDF (brown), followed by another layer of 18mm VP. A mitered frame of mdf would then be glued around the edges of the sandwich, which should allow for profiling of the doors edges, without affecting the finish. Sheets of 4mm MDF would then be glued to both sides of the door, so that a... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
What are you talking about? Gaps on soundproof doors are generally closed by 3 layers of seals on the sides and top, while there is also an integrated seal on the bottom of the door, which only lowers to touch the floor if the door is closed.
That stuff about sustaining life is complete bullcrap. Ever heard of diffusion? Unless you are living in an air baloon, then you are right ofc.
Hey /diy/, I was wondering if anyone had any experience with ordering samples of components online, like from Texas Instruments or other manufacturers. Do you need to be a part of a company, or do they just send to anyone who requests one?
I ask because I need to get a bunch of different components for testing reasons, but I'd rather not spend $3-$15 dollars for each one when I'm not sure which one I'll end up using in the end. I'm trying to replace some 7805 linear regulators with some switching regulators to cut down on heat. I thought about building... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1022851 I've ordered samples in the past. They won't ship you anything if you have a Gmail address. They have to believe that you work for a company that is considering incorporating their parts in to your product. If you have a private email address and you say that you are evaluating parts for a new design then they will likely send you 3 of whatever you want. Sometimes they have an online request form (I think Fairchild used to) and sometimes you have to email or call one of their sales reps.
It worked... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I was hoping not to take them apart. They are riveted (or peened) together and I'm afraid one dissassebly might be the end of the lock.
A few boards have suggested making a flat key blank, sticking it in and wiggling it to get the internal warding (I think it's called) to mark the blank. Problem is: The keys are steel and the locks are brass. So there are not clear marks left.
Hey guys so I want to make a VR headset somehow, for video games, I don't have money so I can't buy one, I do have 2 monitors though, is it possible to just somehow fix something up somehow so they will be un magnified and appear as small and somehow get that to my eyes? I've never done a DYI project before so wondering, is there anything I should buy for this?
I built one that works pretty well. Based it off this http://www.instructables.com/id/OpenVR-Opensource-Rift-for-only-150/
I used his tracking system, 3D printed my own body because I used a slightly larger and higher res screen, got some lenses from my local surplus store (no idea why they carried those), and use Vireio Perception as the software.
Works pretty well actually. The screen door effect isn't too bad, and the tracking is surprisingly responsive and accurate. Im planning to make another one soon, using a very expensive screen from some chinese company, and a whole new headset, because this one is huge and uncomfortable.
See, I'm working on a boat I bought a while back and the interior was pretty deteriorated because the last owner had put some kind of cover with glue and now it was falling.
I plan to put a new cover but I don't know what to put there. And waorse yet, I don't know how to put it there, my father (who's working with me on it) has suggested using some kind of plastic cover and just cutting it as we put it there, but I was thinking about getting the piece (or pieces) that I need already cut and prepared to fit in... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1022683 Do you honestly need to make thread just because you want to screw something to your door?
> how do I know what to look for when it comes to size? Use common sense. Look at the door and try to find something that will fit style and size. > What measurements do I need to take? measure width to find center of the door. Then knock on the door. The point in which you hit to knock on the door will be your hight.
I build houses for a living, so I can help you OP. Replacing a door knocker is one of the hardest remodeling tasks there is. It is harder than replacing a granite counter top, for example. I recommend that you hire a professional and be sure to ask for references that are specific to his ability to replace a door knocker, and don't just call, but visit them to see the proof. If he is for real, he will have photographs and perhaps video of him showing the job from start to finish.
A front door is the most important part of a house. You would not install braces on... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1022620 heat shrinks cotton and some other fabrics
wash them in cold water, then hang them up to dry, or dry in dryer until still damp and hang up to finish drying. You could try to reshape and stretch them with a steam iron, but you won't the original shape.
>>1022620 It's the drying, but the real reason is cheap manufacturing. The knit fabric is stretched lengthwise when it is produced on the rollers, and unless the maker preshrinks the fabric before cutting and sewing, it will always shrink lengthwise and get wider. The only remedy is spend more money and go with name brands. Duluth Trading, for example.
>>1022496 If the pins won't fit in the breadboard, don't force it. Just cut a little bit of lead off of some resistors and solder them to the legs of your component. Then plug it in in whatever orientation you like.
Hi /diy/, i am about to invest ~$20,000 or less in building a commercial greenhouse on a virgin plot of land in Alaska.
it needs to be around 2,500 square feet. i'll be using automated fan systems attached to thermometers, coupled with well-placed ventilation in sides and roof to cool the greenhouse and provide adequate air flow.
my biggest design problem at this time has to do with heating and cooling. how to design the greenhouse so that i don't end up with pockets of hot and cold air? how to keep it uniform? once you get over a certain square footage,... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1022343 Most large greenhouses do what you're describing, with fans every 7 feet or so on the side walls.
For winter heating you'll probably want to go with something reliable. I've seen commercial greenhouses use basically oversized radiators stretched along the walls. Maybe work out something like that where you pump hot water into a radiator.
Alaska isn't the best place to greenhouse due dark/cold autums-winters-spring. The cooling part is somewhat easy, large commercial greenhouses uses evaporate cooling, which is cheap. You can buy these supercheap from alibaba.com
>>1022343 You may want to look into chinese style greenhouses They use an earth or brick wall to the north that adds insulation and thermal mass, so you have a longer grow season. They usually have automated isolation covers for the nights, so the temperature stays up. http://www.lowtechmagazine.com/2015/12/reinventing-the-greenhouse.html
You can supplement the thermal mass by adding water containers in front of the north wall. Bonus point for using them to grow fish and establish a aquaponic system.
For heating and light, you have several options. Energy from the grid will cost you big time. Solar will be mainly there, when you have enough light anyways, so you would need a big battery bank, that will be expensive. A small scale hydro electric turbine could supply you with sufficient, reliable electricity run a big number of grow lamps, if you have a suitable stream nearby. A biogas reactor can supply a gas powered generator which in turn produces electricity for lights, heat and even CO2 You can also build a rocket mass heater and use wood for fuel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gl2xIJcZuyk
Another possibility is building a passive solar greenhouse adding isolated thermal mass underground and heating it up by pumping hot air from the top of the greenhouse inside, whenever the sun is heating up the air in your greenhouse. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kje2UESRE9A
Your air inlet should be going through a long pipe buried underground, so the air is preheated in winter and cooled in summer by the ambient temperature of the earth.
I wish you all the best with your project! Keep us updated!
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