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WIP - Painting/Sculpting/Converting General


Thread replies: 330
Thread images: 85

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>ultrasmurfs are heritics edition.
>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
https://mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Ventilate, motherfucker
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>This planet is ours, witch!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_b-qBTul44
>>
have a kannon.
>>
Have a tower.
>>
Anyone know what best markers to use for models? I want one to use to blacken panel lines more easily, and possibly for doing tau sept marks over doing them with a brush.
>>
>>47857939
Pigma pigment liners
Staedtler pigment liners
>>
>>47857982

Cool, thanks.

Getting back into working on my 40k stuff after not touching it really since 5e.
>>
Can I safely put stainless steel bb's in a pot of vallejo liquid metal? It's the paints with the alcohol base.
>>
Anyone use a wet palette here? I highly reccomed it. My vallejo paints dried in a femto-second and now my paint stays wet for hours
>>
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Took a break from hobbying for a few months. Had a lot of fun painting this guy, just a few touch ups and I'll be done.
>>
>>47858292
The model looks amazing, but I assume with touch ups you mean do some work on the black, because right now its missing the battle damage from the yellow parts and that OSL color doesnt quite fit the rest of the scheme.
Also that mud looks like syrup.
>>
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Casting a bunch of stuff from my new moulds. Can't wait to test building with them.
>>
>>47858404
>because right now its missing the battle damage from the yellow parts
desu if I could go back I'd do the black in a metallic black like pic related, but I'm too deep into an army to change now, it would make everything look inconsistant and I'm too lazy to go back for every model.
>that OSL color doesnt quite fit the rest of the scheme.
Again the reason I did it was more because of the rest of the army has a similar thing. I don't think I'd bother with OSL if I started over. Although it's a lot of fun.

Basically your right but I can't change because I'm pot committed. I seem to get that everytime I'm 1250 points into an army.

>Also that mud looks like syrup.
It looks a lot better in person as it's more mud pooling and not just glossy treacle poured over everything. On the photo it just looks like a sea of glossy brown.
>>
So I'm working on my first squad of Ultramarine Tactical Marines.

I've got the base layer of Macragge Blue on them and Leadbelcher on the bolters.

I wanted to do the gold trim next, but would I need to apply some Balthasar Gold to base it and then apply Gehenna's Gold or could I just use some Gehenna since it already has a base coat?
>>
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So here is a shot of my previously brightest section of rust weathered and damaged with a graphite pencil.
I feel it has really toned down the "lava" look that a couple anon's had mentioned in the previous thread.
Also, all the segments have had the pencil treatment.
NOW, on to multiple washes and they are pretty much done minus snow and grass tufts.
I need to buy more winter tundra tufts before I do that stage, tho.
>>
>>47858634
>Basically your right
OH GOD YES

Kidding, quite a shame, because thats some nice effort for an army you put on the desk, but yeah, changing it now all over again would be such a chore.
>>
>>47858657
Bathasar>agrax earthshade>gehennas.
no skipping out.
>>
>scored a metric shitload of eldar for really, really cheap as an auction
>painted pretty poorly
>want to strip them
>don't know if they're resin or plastic

Any good way to find out? I usually strip with really methylated spirits. and I've heard it melts resin.
>>
>>47859203
either you use something safe for both, or you can try to bend a piece, resin seems softer in my experience. otherwise you can just find something worth sacrificing
>>
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More from the squatting truescale marines.
Trying to get an mk2 version sorted out.
>>
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>>47857786

Let's try this again:
I'm putting together a Prime Axiom for my Convergence of Cyriss army. It's my very first Colossal and I'd like to do a little conversion work. Nothing extreme, just something to set it apart from the thousands of other Prime Axioms already out there.
Any advice and suggestions would be much appreciated.
>>
>>47859514
Put a miniature church steeple on the base
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>>47859554

Not a bad idea but I'm going for something to do to the mini itself. Something to give it a unique look.

Look at this Thousand Sons Obliterator. It's got some extra sculpting on it. It looks different from other Obliterators. It's not blown out of the water, you still know it's an Obliterator, but it's unique and there's no other Obliterator in existence that looks exactly like it.

That's the sort of conversion I'm going for.
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>>47859738

Obliterators* meant plural, not singular. Still, my point.
As a more silly example, here is Commissar America.
>>
>>47859514
the obliterator you used as example is an "obvious" lore conversion, do you have anything in mind from the lore which inspires you? If not by looking at the model i can only say i would sculpt him a face because i like antropomorphic stuff, maybe adding those missiles on his back. Otherwise you could go more janky and make the shoulder things be faces. Maybe choose a theme, like serpents, and make the heads medusa like. There are infinite possibilities, but one you should invent them yourself and two i can't help you any further because my immagination is shit.
>>
>>47859867
>not seeing the head under that hunchback
Yeah, it's a shit mini
>>
>>47859867

Hadn't thought about it in terms of the lore conversion, good point. I'll think about that.

>>47859891

I like it. Nobody likes a downer, anon.
>>
>>47859891
i looked back at it and i still think it's a power core, i won't be convinced otherwise
>>
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>>47860068
but-
It's clearly a fucking head
>>
>>47860108
>>47860068
>>47859867

Maybe I'll make the head on it a little more obvious. Add an arm to that socket and have the head at the end so he can look around.
I've got an extra mask from one of my 40k Knight Titans, think that would be too much?
>>
>>47860108
it's a power core,stop trolling me
>>
>>47860210

I'll MAKE it a head!
>>
>>47860205
Maybe use that head bit, but connect it to the body with some kind of metal snake-like bit
>>
>>47860205
what do you mean too much? Sounds good if you like the idea
>>
/tg/... how the fuck do you deal with mold lines on gears and other ripply bits?
It takes so fucking long and it's goddamned near impossible to get them off all the way.
Why the fuck do they have the mold lines there? There are plenty of other places they could set the line along.
Yes, I'm a tad salty. What the fuck do I do, /tg/
>>
>>47861025
Your only choices are between getting gud or buying better models(or tools)
>>
>>47861025
a cheap set of jeweler's files helps a lot. plastic will gum them up eventually, but you can score a set for 7-10 bucks usually
>>
>>47859451
That's looking pretty fucking sexy man. How tall odds this moddle
>>
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constructive criticism please. I really should have thought more about what colors I was going to do before doing it.
>>
>>47863698
that picture is pretty shit, sorry. also should have mentioned to ignore the mold lines
>>
>>47863739
Was the metal textured? It looks grainy
>>
>>47863698
Also is the mini finished?
>>
>>47863942
I drybrushed silver on the black so that's probably why. maybe I shouldn't have done that
>>
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>>47862049
Here is a picture of the WIP compared to a standard marine
>>
Anyone know hall tall the Skitarri Ironstrider is?

The best I've found is "as tall as a Riptide/Imperial Knight"
>>
>>47864018

Smaller than a breadbox
>>
>>47863996
I don't think that's it, you can see the texture effect on the bone white too, but the silver probably helped. Did you water down the paint a lot?
>>
>>47864072
Yeah I thinned what I thought was sufficiently. The bone is probably like 6 layers since it took that many before I couldn't see the black underneath
>>
>>47864225
>>47864072
should mention that I use matte medium, 50/50 medium-paint
>>
>>47863698
Eyes could be brighter, bone could use a highlight up to white, and the silver could be edged as well. I like the color choices overall, if not the placement
>>
fucking mold lines

I didn't notice until I had started painting and they're on the fucking hands
>>
hi guys, I'm looking at painting some nurgling swarms, and I want a sickly pale albino colour.
Pale white flesh with glowing red eyes, red guts/pustules etc

my problem is I am unsure how to achieve a good flesh tone for what I want without incorperating greens or purples, but still not having it a really flat white.
I was thinking:
prime white
cadian fleshtone
reikland wash
whitescar layer
reikland wash again

do you think that would work? do you have any tips?
thanks
>>
>>47865345
perhaps a visual example of the tone you desire would be helpful
>>
>>47865402
something like the skin on this but without the warm tones
>>
>>47864770
I'll look into that all, thanks
>>
>>47864018
They're actually quite tall, probably around 6-7" and probably around 8-9" counting the Taser Lance.
I'd say they're a little shorter than two regular Dreadnoughts stacked one top of each other (counting the Taser Lance the Ironstrider would be taller however), taller than a single BoC Contemptor Dreadnought by about and inch, and reaches roughly the same height as a winged Hive Tyrant's head.

I don't have mine with so I can't give reference pics sadly. This is going off of just memory
>>
>>47865345

Perhaps a very very light blue undertone? Make em look like bloated corpses?
>>
>>47866013
i was thinking i'd colour it with a wash, either carrobourgh to match the red or reikland gloss to make them like shiny, rotten skin.
if I'm pairing them with blightkings in green/black armour, I dont want to have too many colours. I was thinking i'd keep it centric on white flesh, green armour, red details.
i might just have to do one and see how it turns out
>>
okay yeah super clean is far and above the best stripper. if you use anything else you're seriously missing out
>>
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I think I have hair and skin down pretty well. But how do I do the highlighting on the armour? Do I just go around the outside with a lighter color? Fuck
>>
>>47866192
that looks really good. that small dot of yellow going into the red would bother me though
>>
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>>47866279
Dude you have no idea, the problem is my hands are shaky and i've already spent 30 mins swearing while trying to get to be a straight line.
>>
So I just tried working with green stuff to put a tentacle arm on my guardsmen and it felt Suprising unfun to sculpt with. Big chunks of it were hard to maneuver but the putty was too soft that trying to press it onto my figure left indent marks on the putty that I was unable to fill. How do people sculpt fine details into this stuff?
>>
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>>47866401
>i've already spent 30 mins swearing while trying to get to be a straight line.

I feel your pain, anon. This Blue Falcons chapter insignia is all the WIP I got accomplished this weekend.
>>
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Finished the Dunecrawler I think. Might touch up a thing or two here and there, but it's certainly table ready.
>>
>>47866624
weird how refreshing it is to see a dark base on skitarii. feels like an alien ship invading earth or something idk idk what I'm talking about
>>
>>47866443
Here's the tentacle arm by the way. Not great but luckily tentacles aren't too difficult to make. I think it'll look great once painted and a wash is applied since it has so many crevices
>>
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>>47866732
I am not a smart man
>>
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Skin is hard

Can you even see the shading work on the robe?
>>
>>47865623
Much appreciated anon. I did not expect such a thorough answer.
>>
>>47866530
I like it anon! Now it's time to make those hazard lines straight :^)
>>
>>47866192
If you already put a wash on your figure then you can just use the same base coat as the highlight. Since washing darkens the colors, the base coat will stand out from the already washed layer
>>
>>47866928
>I like it anon! Now it's time to make those hazard lines straight

Emperor's Teeth! Don't I know it? Every time I photograph my progress on this model (>>47866530), I see three more things I want to change.
>>
>>47865473
Prime brown
Rakarth flesh
50% diluted shade of the flesh ink or agrax diluted about 60%
Cadian or a paler flesh, blended using very thin layers.

Alternatively you can use purple, blue, or crimson inks - diluted- for your shading.
>>
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>>47854668
>>47853792
Got an eclipse coming to me now.

This noob is going to learn to airbrush.
>>
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>>47866857
Hey I painted that lady not too long ago! Also it just looks black from here boss. I see some white but i'm not sure if its from painting or your light source.
>>
>>47867167
it's actually blue that fades to purple, hopefully with a bit of glitter (thin leadbelcher) showing through

I'll try and get a better picture tomorrow
>>
>>47859051
something that the Tabletop Minions said you can use liquid green stuff for is texturing. I think it could add some good textures to give it that gritty rust effect if you had done that before painting.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cK97CLGFwY4
I havn't personally tested this yet
>>
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This kills the Ethereal
>>
Having any more than one ethereal on the field really has no point for me, so when I bought another start collecting I thought I would create a counts-as for a cadre fireblade.

What do you think /WIP/
>>
>>47867811
flashing the thigh? what a harlot
>>
>>47867830
The breeze during a battle is just so ~tactical~
>>
>>47865345
watch putrid blightkings tutorial form warhammerTV. At some the start Duncan paints pale while flesh, just follow him up to that point.
>>
Another survivor finished. 2 more to go.
>>
>>47867889
thanks!
>>
>>47859051
still too bright but you'll probably end up solving that with the washes and such, I think the biggest problem I have with it is that it looks to clean right now, there's no mud or debris on the walkways.
>>
>>47867811
like the other anon mentioned, probably change the legs to FW legs but keep the buttcape. otherwise looks good.
>>
>>47866443
To answer your question, you gotta let it harden a little before you ca start detailing.
>>
sorry for breaking all the photo rules, it's hard to get it in focus.

heres the nurglings how I have them so far.
>>
>>47861025
I scrape my knife across in both directions then quickly hit each groove with my sharp jewlers file.
Doesn't take long.
>>
>>47857786
How would you paint a model to achieve this effect? Preferably a method that isn't monstrously difficult.
>>
>>47868953
prime it silver and then clever use of thin washes
>>
>>47868980
I don't quite follow.
>>
>>47868953
You can get irridecent paint, I have no idea how thick it needs to be or anything though.

http://www.smdesigns.co.uk/product/show/5504-createx-iridescent-turquoise?gclid=CjwKEAjwqJ67BRCzzJ7Hy-LYlFYSJABwp9PG57cYSvnv6kzj5rBHMFQ8ECbhYTDyJnDL1N8p3XIatxoCdD3w_wcB
>>
>>47868953
You could try:
>Paint a super shiney silver/chrome paint
>Use some forgeworld clear/tamiya clear paints through an airbrush

Alternatively this might work but would be much more challenging to get a smooth transition:
>>47868980
>>
>>47868980
>>47869003
>>47869055
To be more clear, I was really hoping for a wash that could achieve a shimmery iridescent effect on any painted model. That might not exist, I'm curious to now. Maybe I could just cover my models in soap.
>>
>>47868986
glazes/washes over a metallic give a beetle-shell kind of appearance
>>
>>47869085
Except beetles aren't silver.
>>
>>47869073
You're not going to get a good irridecent effect with anything like that, you can get a shiny carapace like one with a glaze over metallic but it won't shimmer in the way that sort does.
>>
>>47869073
Iridescent medium won't achieve that effect. I'd be very very surprised if something could when you think about the science of why it looks like that.
>>
>>47869095
What if you mixed the paint with mercury? Ignoring for a second how bad of an idea that is.
>>
>>47869102
What in god's name do you think THAT is going to achieve?
>>
>>47869108
>mercury
>also known has Hermes, the messenger god

his models will move faster, obviously.
>>
>>47869102

It would be unlikely to dry. Mercury isn't particles of pigment in suspension, like acrylic paint; it's liquid at room temperature. You'd paint it onto the model, then it would just ooze off again. Then you'd get mercury poisoning.
>>
>>47869073
>iridescent effect
what you want are metals and natural rocks that give of a shimmer
Mica is your best friend in this case
Look up Mica powder pigments and stuff like that
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JAmcMj-W9hU
>>
I found some nail polish that kinda has the effect I want but not quite.
What would work great is something like the soap you use for blowing bubbles except if it dried and still looked like that, but that doesn't seem to exist. Thanks for the adv anyway though.
>>
>>47869296
If you want it even shiner than what can be achieved with that, then you want leaf. Gold or Silver lead. very very thin, can be glued straight onto your figure then sealed over. shiny as fuck.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QnpeiUW4Wxg
Theres also paints with gold leaf paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VYAmd7xa-U
Or glitter paints https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iBllJ08TofE
>>
>>47869300
yeah thats basically just the glitter paints.
>>
>>47869296
Looking at the Mattise iridescent medium from the medium I don't know if you could/should add it to acrylic paint.
>>
>>47869383
You may just be best looking at various metallic acrylics
One base layer of the main metallic color you want, then a lighter wash of a different metallic one, like what this anon said.
>>47868980
for example you put on a base of silver, then over that a wash of blue (or gold depending on which color scheme you're going for) then repeat with other colors
can't think of anything else besides a single color
>>
>>47869383
actually i just thought of something for you
get whatever color you want your cape or model or whatever to be. then buy this. slather it with a thin layer of glue then cover it similar to how you add flock.
It won't be perfect but it'd be neat
I might test it out myself if you don't do it. Shiny nids. the worst kind.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Finnabair-Art-Ingredients-Mica-Powder-.6Oz-Iridescent-Blue/47450218?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=50&adid=22222222227034751456&wl0=&wl1=s&wl2=c&wl3=75437076274&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=175421041954&veh=sem
>>
Can someone point me towards a building or painting guide for the leman russ tank? I´m kinda confused in what order I should start working on the tank.
>>
>>47869073
liquitex has a range of mediums that you can mix with other paints to get (something like) that effect and stand alone paints.
>>
>>47869500
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=leman+russ+painting+guide

http://www.astronomican.com/showthread.php?23260-Skrall-s-COMPLETE-Leman-Russ-tutorial
>>
>>47869500
Check out GW's youtube channel. There's a painting guide for chimera's that should basically be the same as painting any other tank.
>>
>>47869500
>>47869532
theres a sub on reddit dedicated towards instructions and shit, for future reference
>>
>>47869532
>>47869537
>>47869543
Thanks anons, going to check everything.
>>
How do I strip plastic models fairly quickly? I've got some terrible second-hand models that I want to give a new lease on life, but the paint is sticking on like a sonuvabitch.

I've been using denatured alcohol so far, since my gaming buddy tells me it's just aggressive enough to strip the paint without harming the plastic, but I'll need to have at the models with a toothbrush for hours at this rate. There has to be an easier way.
>>
>>47869585
I prefer simple green, as it is the choice of sks and nugget owners all over
however this is a great guide
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A1cc-gdchCc
>>
>>47869592
I can't get Simple Green over here, but I suppose I could try another brand of all-purpose cleaner.

I'm not sure they'd be more aggressive than proper alcohol, but what do I know? These models have been soaking for fucking days now.
>>
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>>47869585
super clean
>put on gloves
>soak minis
>scrub a little
>gg
>>
>>47869462
If you do, definitely post results!
Would mixing the mica powder to the paint work? Or you could just paint with a mica powder mix in the first place. What kind of glue would you use?
>>
>>47869585
Don't remember exactly what it was but I've stripped all my plastic minis with an ammoniac-based detergent. Takes about 1h of soaking and then some moderate scrubing with a toothbrush, much better than alcohol in my experience.
>>
>>47869585
I wonder if googling or reading op could help
>>
>>47869609
>I'm not sure they'd be more aggressive than proper alcohol
they will be
what country are you in.
>>47869623
I feel like mixing it in would just paint the mica. however you never know. I like to test things on bottle caps or chunks of plastic i have laying around before i properly paint. i mean, it'd be easier to just use paint with mica powder, but making your own means complete control of concentration and colors
I'd probably use PVA glue, just like flock.
I actually havnt even started my army yet, but i like to get my shit together first. I'm over a month in to researching the fluff/lore and different painting techniques. Never mind my experience with painting clays before hand. (which is easier to add the effects to)
>>
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>>47869651
I think flocking the mica powder would just have the same effect as glitter. Could be good but I'm going for more of a shimmery look. Fun fact, this is the stuff they put in Viniq to make it look shimmery.
>>
>>47869683
I mean, if you want to you could just go absolutely crazy and try some nail polish.
But it would have to be non-reactive to the plastic, no acetone and so forth.
flocking it would probably give it the same effect, unless its very very small grit and you use more than one color. The thing about glitter is even the smallest grit of it usually isn't as small of a grit as mica can be crushed to.
>>
>>47868868
top one looks like he has the time of his life
>>
Is any one able to post a comparison of a standard dreadnought against a Kataphron servitor? Or does anyone know how well the the two match up size wise?

I'm in need of a tracked dreadnought.... Because of reasons.
>>
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It's unlikely I'll get a reply from the original painter, but I was wondering if these are game Color bronze and brass or the model colors?
>>
>>47870233

Those are browns and yellows
>>
>>47864018
about tree fiddy
>>
>>47870392
Except for the part where the painter said they used vallejo bronze and brass
>>
>>47867069
Not that I'd call it out as a bad brush, but your pic isn't an Eclipse; it's an HP C plus. Don't buy Eclipse spares for it thinking they will fit.
>>
>>47870535

In that case, they're from the Air range
>>
>>47867069
Hope you shelled some bucks on a good compressor aswell.
>>
>>47867069
You didn't need to get an high end brush to start. I hope you invested in the compressor, that's the critical part.
>>
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Just finished this guy. Looks better than the Scorps at least. Not happy with the sword though, I wanted to do a lightning effect partially obscured by a grey wash to look like fog or clouds, but it really didn't work. Think I need a finer brush for the lightning, maybe get a metallic blue too. Ah well, we live and learn.
>>
>>47871835
Go do anything with the base before you consider it finished. Go out to your driveway and get some small bits of gravel and maybe a small rock or something. But don't leave it with splashes of paint from and leave it messy.
>>
>>47871935
Oh I was just talking about the model, I'm getting some basing flock or something later on. Probably going to go with snow, might make for a cool contrast with the dark blue of the model.
>>
>>47868953
Createx has a line of iridescent airbrush paints. Those would probably work
>>
>>47869683
Mica is used in Hammered effect paint.
>>
>>47871978
how is snow going to contrast anything but a dark brownish model? it evven has white in the drape. If you really want it to contrast you can go with some kind of mars ish sand. Model is a pretty good effort, but don't to white basecoats, highlight into white, same for the yellow which looks like it is lacking an highlight. Also i would highlight the breastplates' edges and on the shoes. Did you use any wash on the model? (the white might be a little thick, i can't tell)
>>
>>47872410
also i think i can see a mould line on his hair and helm.( not trying to demolish you, just pointingout what i would improve)
>>
>>47871835
>Just finished this guy.

May I make a suggestion? You've got a nice-looking crest on that Panzee's pointy head there. You oughta wash it (have you a bottle of Seraphim Sepia?) to create shadows in between the bristles, and then highlight the edges with a lighter yellow (maybe Flash Gitz Yellow + whatever white colour you're using) or maybe even Ushabti Bone.

You might have to wash it, let it dry, and then wash it again before applying the highlight to get a properly tasty look.
>>
>>47872410
These guys had a black basecoat except for the drapes which were white. Did a basecoat of Kantor blue, then a wash of 50/50 Kantor Blue/Abaddon Black.

Can I ask what you meant by highlight into white? I had to do about 6 coats of white to get the helmet even relavitely not-splotchy. And yeah, for the manes I'm gonna take >>47872455 This guy's advice and do a wash then recolour. The only wash I have is Agrax Earthshade, will that do ok? The yellow I used is Flash Gits, but it probably looks darker because of the primer (I based the manes with Balor Brown)

>>47872444
Yeah, I forgot to remove the mouldlines before I started painting them. Idiot. I'll remember next time hopefully.

Pic related is one of his minions, I tried not to go overboard on the drybrushing but I think I failed. Too much on the brush maybe.
>>
>>47869623
I would actually consider mixing the powder with some ardcoat and applying it to the model last... my wife achieved a similar effect on her nids with some glitter mixed with ardcoat. I'd post a picture but they're currently in storage.
>>
>>47868980
This right here is not a bad idea
>>
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>>47872592
Woopsy doodles
>>
>>47872592
damn, every single thread.if you need to make a light colour over ad dark primer tone the primer down, for example for yellow you can do a brown basecoat, another lighter brown basecoat and then paint yellow,for white just go with progressively lighter greys. highlighting into white means that you shouldn't basecoat white, but rather make a grey basecoat and then highlight white, because otherwise the mini will be flat and lacking volume. Agrax is a bit too dark for yellow, but i don't have any experience with washes so i might be wrong
>>
>>47859738
God, that looks so good. As a nurgle player, I'm envious, because all the bright colors I'm expected to use are pallid or greens. Your blue looks so pleasant to the eyes!
>>
>>47872912
Ah, see that's what I wasn't getting. I got the part about basecoating brown then going yellow, which I did for these guys, but last thread my takeaway was for a white colour on dark primer, go progressively lighter greys then pure white over the top. Must have misunderstood, thanks for clarifying. So as I understand it now, I should by the end product have a light grey helmet with white highlights?
>>
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>>47872592
>And yeah, for the manes I'm gonna take >>47872455 (You) This guy's advice and do a wash then recolour. The only wash I have is Agrax Earthshade, will that do ok?

Agrax Earthshade will be darker than Seraphim Sepia, but Saint Duncan swears by it. Give it a try.
>>
>>47873036
i don't understand why we are talking about the helmet, but yes, you can google white miniatures and the decent ones will all be like that or with an offwhite in lieu of the grey, for example nurgling flesh if you want it to be marcescent white or bone whites like ushabti bone for a realistic dirtish white
>>
>>47873138
Well, I'm talking about the helmet because that's the only area of pure white on the model we're discussing, so I used it as an example. And that's all great stuff, thanks. Picking up the colours later today, hopefully.
>>
>>47859451
i had my doubts. but this is beautiful.
>>
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Well, this showed up on eBay today. There's no Johnny in there, and at least one of the models (the power axe lad) looks like he's suffered some damage, but there's almost the entire set of 1st Edition Rhino crew, as well as the hard-to-find "Marine w/ Hooded Tabard" and even one with a needle rifle! Just a soak in some acetone/Goof-Off/Dettol and you'll be ready to defend The Emperor and Mankind!

Shipping would be better fer you Limey gitz across da pond.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/142030164059
>>
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Welp here's the Exarch after a wash of Agrax Earthshade and an almost-drybrushing of Flash Gitz. My technique ain't great, but it looks better than before and that's the important bit.
>>
>When your fine detail Brush gets ruined and you need to get a new one
Kill me
>>47871835
>>47872835
Brother!
You really should give them a brighter blue basecoat imo, I'm going to do a Calador basecoat on raised plates then altioc blue edge
Panzees look better when brighter
>>
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>>47873513
>$36 dollar shipping to Canada
>>
>>47873513
Defend the Emperor while listening to 80's metal and generally being 80's as fuck you mean!
>>
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>>47873640
Sweet, thanks for the adv ice, I did think they looked a bit dark but Kantor was the only blue I had. Maybe for the next box, whenever I get it. Do you have any tips on how to do lightning on a sword? I was kinda disappointed with how mine turned out, was going for a "lightning obscured by fog" effect but as you can see it didn't work.
>>
>>47873739
>Defend the Emperor while listening to 80's metal and generally being 80's as fuck you mean!

Wisdom!
>>
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>googling how to sculpt arms in greenstuff
>Google autocompletes as i type
>"how to sculpt abs"
>"how to sculpt arms in thirty days"
t-thanks google
>>
>>47859451

Looks nice man. The rims ont he shoulderpads look too large though. They're so thick that they break up the curve.
>>
>>47873600
>it looks better than before and that's the important bit.

Improvement is what WIP's all about!
>>
>>47873747
You can try this, I usually paint my weapons as a wraithbone or metallic sword, but heres a decent tutorial.
>http://www.belloflostsouls.net/2012/05/hobby-painting-on-lightning-weapon-effects.html
>>
>>47873925
Well that looks like it works way better than the one I saw, thanks
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4oHSNJEsGLY
>>
>miniature is 95% complete, only details or basing remains
>immediately lose all interest in said miniature and embark on a new project
>almost-finished-lead-mountain grows ever taller

IT KEEPS HAPPENING
>>
How do I paint molten spaghetti like this?
>>
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Please mommy no more gems they hurt.

Now some vines and the cockpit and that's it.
>>
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So I have a bunch of old busted up nids that I just couldn't bare to throw in the bin so I'm trying to re-purpose them. I got a polystyrene egg and thought it would be cool to make it look like its hatching from it. (I don't think nids actually hatch from eggs but whatever). So I quite like how it looks but I thought it looked a bit plain, was gonna add some veins and goop seeping from the cracks. But it just doesn't look right, not really ever used modelling putty before. What am I doing wrong?
>>
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Started painting my dropzone commander stuff this weekend, just got lenses left.
>>
>>47875475
very pretty. like the rune placement as well
>>
>>47875407
Holy shit that's amazing...
>>
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>>47875568

I say we take off and nuke the entire site from orbit ... it's the only way to be sure.
>>
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Almost done with my DP for a small competition. Any thoughts?
>>
>>47875882
looks pretty damn good. the red maybe could use one more edge highlight
>>
>>47875882
Is... is that a dildo-wielding Khorne DP? With a sensuously long tongue?

Slaanesh is very turned on right now. So, y'know, average boring Monday night.

Srs tho that looks great, you got some skills my man.
>>
>>47875882
poifect.
>>
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>>47875692
Never even heard of it but that purple looks fucking tight. On the left we've got Giger meets limousine designers.

What scale is that? 10mm? Looks too big to be 6mm judging from the infantry in the background.
>>
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>>47875692
SCOURGE GET OUT REEEEEEEE
>>
>>47875934
>>47876068
>>47876094
Thanks Anons, it's really nice to know, that hours of my work get appreciated. It's a warm and fuzzy feeling.

I'm absolutely gonna do an extra round of highlights if I finish everything else before thursday, which is the deadline for the competition.

Also sorry to bring it to you Anon, but it's not a dildo - it's a mace (its other half of can be seen in the corner of the pic). Made me laugh though, good catch.
>>
>>47875407
Mmmmm baked cheese...
One of the few times base coating white is a good idea.

Pretty much layer in reverse. Leave the white in the gaps and layer up to dark brown.
>>
>>47875407
Thanks Forgeworld for making an Avatar model that doesn't look as retarded as the GW one.
>>
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>>47875475
One side done. Tomorrow more.
>>
>>47877207
Every eldar player Ive met is biel-tan, what the fuck?
I play alatioc and have never seen an eldar that wasnt green
>>
>>47877387
That's because biel-tan is best craftworld.
>>
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How do you guys paint a lot of horses and try to keep them a bit unique and semi easy?
>>
>>47877475
>Name rhymes with bile
nah
>>
>>47877596
Bile does not rhyme with tan.
>>
>>47877624
>Bile-tan
>>
>>47877594
Sorry for the 5 MB picture I forgot...
>>
>>47877635
Yeah whatever enjoy your craftworld full of dirty hobos.
>>
>>47877594
>>
>>47877594
>>47877826
>>
>>47877826
>>47877847
Thanks!
>>
>>47877668
rude
>>
>>47875568
i might be interested in buying said nids.
>>
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Just finished the transfers I'm doing for my bronze minotaurs-esque Freeblade knight, just waiting for the varnish to dry on my transfer sheet, then I'll apply them and post pics tomorrow, using these plus some that come on the standard knights (aquila for the leg guard, some other imperial heraldry and such)
>>
>>47879311
Any good tutorials to make your own transfers?
>>
>>47879452
followed this link for it
fromthewarp dot blogspot dot co.uk/2012/05/how-to-make-waterslide-transfers-decals

My three pieces of advice are as follows:

- Have a decent knowhow in GIMP or Illustrator, you'll want to use vector images to give that crisp look
-Google for a decal sheet for the miniature you want to do them for, get the dimensions of that sheet then resize the googled image onto your canvas, you can now use that as a guide layer
-Use gloss varnish to set it, don't use matte varnish
>>
>>47879452

If you have to ask, you're going to fuck it up.
>>
>>47879604
That's the spirit!
Sounds like something someone would say who hasn't completed a single thing in years.
>>
>>47879452
>>47879547
Another piece of advice that I learned literally just now: Get a ream of white and transparent decal paper, I've just learned the hard way that since printers don't print white (duh) it leaves any colours with a hint of white in them transparent depending on how much white there is.

However I'm really happy how the banner and the spartan helmets came out, could've done with a bit more kerning on the name banner but I was being conservative and it was either that or having the font too small to read.
>>
>>47879701
>inb4 this loser posts about how hard printing transfer is just like the last two guys who tried
>>
>>47879701
someone who can't even google simple questions shouldn't be talking
>>
>>47879828
i made my own transfers. it was easy.
>>
>>47879854
You're right, this thread should not even exist. You can literally google anything and get 100% detailed answers every single time. Holy shit, we've been wasting so much time without your guidance, if only we could have googled your words of wisdom earlier!
>>
>>47879854
Ok autist listen, you can google a thing, read several sites and tutorials for a while and discard all the trash info yourself to keep the good ones, or you can ask other anons who have already done that process if they would be so kind to share their favorite choices on the matter.

It's called socializing, maybe when you grow up you'll understand.
>>
>>47879854
Interestingly, someone with an attitude like yours should also permanently shut their mouth.
>>
>>47880015
>>47880446
i don't know, i am not that anon, but really there are some pretty unnecessary questions in wip, people seem to ask around a bit too much for really basic stuff. But i guess it's part of the thread and you can just ignore them if you want
>>
>>47876921
>implying basecoating white isn't the right choice 90% of the times
>>
>>47870548
Oh. I did actually buy an HP-CS, just posted the wrong image.

>>47870943
>>47871574
Is there anything in particular /wip/ recommends for a compressor?
>>
>>47869099
No idea bout that, black science man. Care to use a spoon over here?
>>
Hello fellow painters, if your birthday was coming up, what would you want for your birfday? I have a friend who does up my models and I'm feelin nice lately.
>>
>>47881516
how long has he been painting? how complete do you think his paint and tools set is? what budget are you on?
>>
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>>47868953
>>47869003
>>47869055
>>47869073
>>47869085


what you want is Alclad II lacquer, specifically "ALC-205 Holomatic Spectral Chrome". Airbrush is best but you can apply with a brush.
>>
>>47881542
Painting for a while, but he tries to not be artsy, but he's the best i know in person, so getting him to paint is a challenge. But still, I know he likes doing it.
>>
>>47881616
you didn't answer on the budget.I would love a 200 dollars airbrush myself, but i am guessing it's not feasible. a lamp maybe, but he might have one already(i have no ide how much a good paintng lamp would cost). All i can say it would be nice to get him something he will keep,but maybe some high end brushes if he usually paints with cheap stuff. If you don't really need it to be paint related some minis or some greenstuff and tools would be neat too.
>>
>>47881715
also a magnifier lens, it's something people often overlook, but i would love to have one and it can come pretty cheap
>>
tfw when your next project is to paint the miniatures from Wrath of Ashardalon for your dad (as practice before the big boy paints arrive to paint the 6mm fuckers) but it's humid and thunderstorms out so I can't spray prime
>>
>>47881790
You could improvise a spray booth on the inside.
>>
>>47881847
meh. fiancee has asthma and I have two small dogs. Probably best if I don't do it inside.
>>
>>47881761
i refused a magnifying lense.

You have to relearn how to paint under it, as your muscle memory means nothing under a magnifying glass.
>>
>>47881887
airbrush
>>
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>>47881911
It's your hand eye coordination that changes, not muscle memory.
>>
>>47876104
Right on the money, 10mm.
>>47876187
I DONT HAVE A REBUTTAL, NICE MINI THO.
>>
>>47881944
oh yeah. derp.
>>
Hey /wip/

I found an old Fire Prism model (with the metal cannon) but it's missing some pieces. I want to convert it into a Night Spinner, but the turrets are fairly different looking now. I was thinking I'd just buy the twin guns and green stuff em on to the sides of the old canopy, but I'm worried about the size. Anyone have both models to compare? I've never seen a Night Spinner turret in person but I imagine it's probably close enough to the old models' size so as to not look completely fucking stupid

tl;dr I'm poor and want to stick night spinner cannons on an old turret, wat do?

also I haven't ever converted anything whatsoever so I'll probably fuck it up either way
>>
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Working on this guy right now. Going well and all, its just taking a bit of time to complete. A couple more evenings and I should be done.
>>
>>47882673

Also here's the dudes who will be riding along. Ignore the glossy coat, their gloss varnish finished drying and I didn't apply a satin varnish yet.
>>
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>>47882708

Shit, it'd help if I actually posted the picture.
>>
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Continuing on from my trenches, it is time to make church ruins.
Making a new piece and revisiting an older piece with new ideas.
Building up floor debris barricades and roughing things up.
And recommendations for the flat tops on these things (3rd image)
>>
>>47882610
well, I will tell you... you might fuck it up trying... but you will never ever ever ever do it no matter what... by not trying.
>>
>>47884183
>And recommendations for the flat tops on these things (3rd image)
cast some plaster, smash it and glue it on the top and decorate with sand, like you would smaller rubble piles.
>>
>>47884183
put an imperial knight on top of it
>>
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hey /tg/ like my orc camp?
>>
Nid with different 'ranks' being based on different hive colors. Am I going full retard or does this sound interesting? My thinking is that for whatever reason multiple hives have banded together. Probably because they all happened upon Terra at the same time.
Thanks Emperor
(My example is: Gaunts being a different color than carnifex, which is different than spores, and so forth.)
>>
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>>47884454
more of the camp
>>
>>47884454
NEED MOR BLUD
>>
Hello, does anyone have any easy plasticard projects?
I've been covering some dollar store toys with it, but I'd like to learn techniques and stuff. I've never really scratch built, and the thing in the OP is too intimidating.
>>
>>47882738
those knights are gorgeous, but something about the green sponsons on the LRC feels unbalanced, schemewise. No quibbles about execution anyways
>>
>>47884472
looks great mate. Love the crows nest
Didn't really takes orcs as much for doing laundry though!
>>
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I have been playing warhammer since 2007; dwarfs (and only dwarfs) since the beginning.
But in my 9 years of playing dwarfs i have never once used a slayer.
I never even bought one or proxied one in a list.
today I found the old battle for skull pass plastic slayer and sped painted him.
Here he is, my first slayer model. took me about 15 minutes to finish.
>>
>>47884472

Looks good, anon. I assume it's for those primitive/tribal clan guys (whose name is currently escaping me)?
>>
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>>47884621
That's because dwarfs took over it and are trying to clean it out :P
>>
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Stripped and ready to go.
>>
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>>47884808
oh hi
>>
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>>47872979

Most certainly isn't my mini, anon. I just really like Thousand Sons stuff.
If you want colorful Nurgle stuff, check out pic related. I'm not sure but I think this was done by Savage Orc Anon.
>>
>>47884686

Wait, shit, I thought I was in /40kg/ for some reason

disregard, looks great for WHFB orcs
>>
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>>47884873
Oh hello.

MOVE FORWARD
>>
>>47875882

It looks fucking awesome, and I reallllly hate to do this, but... there are mold lines on his legs.
>>
>>47877594

You start by cleaning the mold lines and filling the gaps before priming, anon.
>>
>>47884183
I'm pretty new to terrain building, but I really love the look of your terrain and I'd love to do up some terrain of my own to emulate it.

Do you mind telling me where you got your materials and how you put 'em together?
>>
>>47884183
Great taste in music, anon.
>>
>>47858292
the first thing I thought of was Pikachu when I saw the drone. Very nice paint job though.
>>
>>47865345
if you want pale color I would use
>Rakarth flesh
>flayed one flesh
>pallid wych flesh
creates a nice sickly pale color. Then you can wash it whatever you want. Blue or Purple wash in some areas would help sell the diseased look
>>
>>47868868
looking good! But the wash looks excessive.
>>
>>47869090
after enough washes you won't notice the silver. You are thinking to small anon
>>
>>47884454
>>47884472
nice! Did you do paper mache for the tents?
>>
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So having decided to spray my next Vyper white, because black is a bitch to do yellow on, I used the exact same technique for spraying that I used for the black primer on the previous Vyper/Dire Avengers, and they turne out fine. Yet with the white, I'm getting this shitty, bobbly uneven crap. I can still see the plastic on some parts, so I don't think it's from too much paint. Do I just need to hold white closer or something? Shits frustrating.
>>
>>47886895
I think you need to either shake the can up more and/or spray farther away.
Also, do side to side sweeps starting and ending off the models; shitty nozzles have a tendecency to spit chunks when you start or stop spraying.
Other than that your local weather may be fucking things up, I can't say. The temperature/humidity might be bad for spray painting/priming.
Maybe your can is just crap or it went bad, idk.
>>
So, I'm looking to make a few bonewheel skeletons. Anyone got ideas on what to use to make the wheels?

Maybe find some small plastic wagons, and take the wheels, or something?
>>
>>47858116
I don't see why not, but why?
>>
>>47887104
Yeah, you're probably best of trying to track down some surplus wagon wheels and cheapo skeletons then just gluing them together, using plasticard to make the little spikes on the wheels.

You making these for the Dark Souls boardgame that's coming out? I was sad it didn't come with any of the little buggers.
>>
>>47886895
i got the same thing the first time i used white primer. in my case it was from holding the nozzle too far away; it dried midair and sort of caked on as a powder. I had to strip them.

I couldnt find a picture of my orks with the fucked up primer so have one of Painboss Gutcutta instead.
>>
>>47886996
Was spraying inside, so weather's not the issue. Held the well-shaken can about 30cm away, like I did for the black primer. Used mostly long sweeps, but did a few short jets as well when it was clear this shit was clumping.

Might just strip and redo in black. Any notes on stripping paint? Will plain hot water do?
>>
>>47887206
Ah, okay, this is all making it sound like I need to hold the white can closer than the black one. I'm using a Citadel rattlecan, maybe their nozzles are crap. How did you strip the paint from yours, I think I'm going to have to go that route.

Also, that's a lovely looking Ork you have there. Gotta love that smug, 'I just krumped me wunna dem spiky panzee gitz' smile on his face.
>>
>>47887226
>Will plain hot water do?
No, not in the slightest.

Read link for a guide
>http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...
>>
>>47887190
I'm Quelaag anon.

I'm just making them because it seems like it'd be real fuckin' Nito.
>>
>>47887226
Dettol, simple green or acetone free nail polish remover.
There's plenty of guides around.
>>
>>47882738

I agree with >>47884545. Looks like the land raider needs a bit more green. Maybe the assault ramp?
>>
>>47887266
thanks :)
my first primer was a black rustoleum one i could use from any distance, my second was an Army Painter primer+basecoat spray.

I dont know about citadel, but armypainter ones are tricky since you need to hold it about 10cm away from the model, but not overdo it since it will clog detail easily.

short, sharp strokes of the spray will do it i think.

for stripping I use Dettol, works on resin and plastic.
>>
>>47887272
>>47887287
>>47887335
Thanks guys, will try this out tonight.
>>
>>47887278
>imagining wheel skeletons in the Queelag bossfight
Haha, nope.
Sadly, I can't help you much when it comes to finding skeleton or wheel models. I've been looking for some good ones too but I haven't found much.

Seconding your recommendation request.

Also, anyone know where to find models that resemble pic related. I need some generic robed and hooded mooks with mostly obscured faces.
>>
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Same as >>47887378
Forgot my pic
>>
>>47887387
My fallback is Reaper.

http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/cultist/latest/77068
http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/cultist/latest/77351

Probably a few of the latter floating around on ebay, with them being in Bones 2.
>>
I originally bought this to crush up fish food for baby fish, but I've since given up that hobby. Any crushing you ever need to do, for basing, or adding pigments to paints. This little thing is amazing
Warning: this mortar and pestle is really small, the pestle is like, 3 inches long. But i have big meaty hands and think it feels good for small jobs.
https://www.amazon.com/Scientific-LPC-154-Mortar-Pestle%252c-30ml/dp/B003CST5WG/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1466492014&sr=8-13&keywords=mini+mortar+and+pestle
>>
>>47887387
What scale?

>>47887378
Look for historic scale kits. You might be able to find a 1/35 or 1/48 scale wagon that will fit your skeletons.

If you're really lucky there might be a cheap 'trash and objects' set with some wheels.
>>
>>47887519
>What scale?
~28mm should be fine for D&D style, grid-based tabletop, right?
They're mainly just for place holders and the like so it shouldn't matter to much anyway.
>>
>>47887558
There's some 20mm ones here.
They'll be small but these are very cheap and would be fine as placeholders.
>>
>>47887864
>There's some 20mm ones here.
Link?
>>
>>47857923
>>47857886
>>47857786
Anyone got more these kinds of tutorials? Would love to get into trying to make more stuff like this.
>>
> Brought a steam tank for AoS
> Look at sprues, notice there are peepholes on the body
> Look at the interior parts
> Get an idea

Would it be possible to hook LEDs to the tank and light up the inside, smokestack, and the steam gun/cannon?
>>
>>47888177
>Would it be possible
Anything is possible if you throw enough money at it.
Do it, become a legend anon.
>>
>>47888177
LED yes you really just need a small battery maybe a circuit board and a switch, steam.....eeeeeeeeeeeeeh i dunno maybe?
>>
>>47888225
I'm thinking about it and having different colors flashing from inside, with bright orange or yellow lights flashing from the barrels of the guns.

>>47888228
I'm not very familiar with LEDs and circuitry.

The main question is what's the best way to hide the wiring and would I need to replace LEDs?
>>
>>47884986
Thanks Anon, and yea, there are... not only on the legs, these are actually not that bad of the offenders. I hate cleaning the mold lines and no matter how many hours I spend getting rid of them there is always more
>>
>>47888254
LEDs, to my knowledge, don't really tend to go out the same way a normal lightbulb does, so you shouldn't have need to worry in that respect.

You more just have to worry about the battery that powers them dying, but with a standard button cell it shouldn't happen for quite a while provided you have some way to switch the LEDs off while you're not planning on using them.

All the wiring and circuitry should fit inside the model fairly easily where no one will be able to see it 99% of the time, so the only thing you'd have to worry about is making and off switch or being able to replace the battery - preferably both.
>>
>>47888324
I was thinking of putting the switch and battery on the base and try to hide it as a tree stump or something, the question is how to keep it clean and functioning when I need to base/paint the mini.
>>
>>47888343
Hmm, perhaps putting the battery and switch under a large hollow rock on the base would work well?

If you were to do this, you could paint the model completely normally as the rock would act like a shell, protecting the sciency bitz underneath it from paint and primer.

All you would have to do would be make the hollow rock removable from the base which is as easy as not gluing it down.

Then you just string some wires from the battery to the tank. Easiest way to do this would be to just drill holes in the base under the rock near the battery/switch and below the tank, then stringing some wires from hole to hole under the model's base.
>>
>mfw it's taking me over 2 hours to paint 12 FW bolters
>>
>>47888343
this may be able to help. you should be able ot use a single 9v battery instead and wire in a simple switch as well without too much work. instead of attaching the LED leads directly, you can solder wires to make the leads longer, basically.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jZIcgrG17E
>>
>>47888343
to keep paint off it, just put some painters tape on the LED, then peel it off when done.
>>
>>47888568
Another Idea, replace the USB with two 3v button cells should work. also this guy uses way too much hot glue in my opinion
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JEA8NVfo3DU
>>
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I'm currently painting the same mini as pictured here.

I'm up to his white pauldron but pure white looks really wrong.

What colour does it look like to your eyes that they have bleeding up from the bottom of the pauldron, it looks almost blackish...

any thoughts?
>>
some finished little kromlech gobbo's, nothing flash, just tabletop standard. only 25 more of the buggers to go.
>>
>>47889424
Lovely, but did you consider glazing red their colthes? They are a bit top pinkish for my tastes. (What colour is that?)
>>
>>47889543
theyre a pretty deep red, the lighting is just really shitty. I didnt realise until I transferred it to my pc. I'll put up some daylight pics this time tomorrow if I can.
they're primed white,
basecoat mephiston red
washed with carrobourgh red
layered with evil sunz red.
here's a single one.
>>
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>>47889375
If you dial back the color correction on that pic a bit it just looks like an ice blue.
Basically a grey with a tiny bit of blue in it.
>>
>>47889641
thanks m8
>>
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How the fuck do you actually paint Reaper Bones? Fucking sick of them.

Anyone with any experience with them, especially in the UK?

Particularly Priming them, or at least basecoating them for painting. Apparently some sprays stay "tacky" on them and render them unusable. Naturally I wash them with soapy water beforehand.

First one, I tried a basecoat of neat Citadel Abbadon Black and painted over with Vallejo Game Colours. He's kind of a little tacky, and I think I've lost a load of detail that a wash might save.

Second, I went straight over the white plastic with neat Vallejo Game Colour, and it just seems... eh. Since adding water to the paint makes it bead you have to slap it on neat, and even spreading it out doesn't give great coverage.
>>
>>47889638
Definitely the light then
>>
>>47889931
I just did a few as statues; primed with Vallejo gray primer, then undercoated with some brown cut with acrylic floor polish (bronze statues). No problems (other than the near impossible to remove mold lines).
>>
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>>47890056

Like this stuff?

Yeah, the mold lines on some are a right bitch, and they don't slice off like other plastics, you have to properly cut them out or you leave a "tag".
>>
>>47889931
I used some Army Painter Bone colored primer. It worked alright.
>>
Whilst I'm here, does anyone else find their Vallejo Game Colours to not stir that well?

I shake them like I'm rubbing my johnson for a minute or more, and yet still when I squeeze a small blob out, it seems to be of an odd consistency sometimes, like all the acrylic medium is floating to the top or something. I noticed it most with the goblin green, which was nearly two different shades when I squeezed a little more out.
>>
>>47890157
I dropped a few paint mixing ball bearings into mine. They work like a charm.
>>
>>47890157

>I shake them like I'm rubbing my johnson for a minute or more

kek
>>
>>47890157
If it helps, generally those issues can be sorted out by manually stirring with the end of a brush (as in not the side you paint with) and then wiping it off with a piece of towel or something after dripping it back in. Then shaking again. Will break up the bigger bits.
>>
>>47887226
Gets humid inside too anon.......
Humidity is water in the air, not magic nature particles.
>>
>>47888564
Probably because you have too many distractions. Like... posting to tg about your face instead of just painting. I imagine this is just the tip of the ice berg.
I mean, no one here cares about your face when you're been painting shower than you personally like yet you stopped painting to tell us.
But, you'll probably just get defensive instead of introspective. Fun!
>>
>>47889638
>>47889543
Purple would be a much better colour to wash over the red.
>>
>>47890381
I'm going to recommend a tooth pick instead of your paint brushes...
>>
Now this might siund very stupid, and it is, but am I supposed to highlight a black space marine pauldron, apart from the edges? Put some dark grey lines on the curve?
>>
>>47869300
something I'm gonna use for my nurgle drones
>>
>>47890648
I dont see why not, if it looks good. The end result matters more than what one is "supposed" to do.

Though if you plan on decorating them with decals you may want to reconsider.
>>
>>47884905
savage ork anon is great in her own way, but she doesn't rise to this level.
>>
>>47891296
Does Savage Orc Anon have a gallery of her work?

I've seen a couple bits of her Tzeentch daemons and would like to see more.
>>
>>47884183
I am wondering if I should leave a couple stained glass windows intact in a couple key points (like corners above ground floor.
Not sure yet. I like the look of them.. but I doubt they would survive the amount of damage these ruins have seen.
Easy to pop in an out though, I made and cut them precisely the size of the windows.
>>
>>47891387
https://www.instagram.com/savage_ork_guy/
>>
>>47884873
Ahh the mighty ksarkin
>>
>>47891655
when you are on acid, but you need to paint
>>
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>>47891820
If you NEEDED to paint, and you can't paint on acid... I am truly going to blow your current mind state, but... maybe you shouldn't have done acid.

WOAH MAN FAR OUT!
>>
Can someone make a new thread?
>>
>>47884183
>>47891485
Tell me how you made them anon. Tell me everything.

>>47886060
Thanks. When I first showed them to a friend he said "Are you doing a bumblebee themed army? Like from Transformers?" which annoyed me greatly. Pikachu is much better.
>>
>>47891926
Yes you can, anon.
>>
>>47891655
Thanks!
>>
>>47892372
New thread
>>
>>47891296
Well that's a golden demon winner if I remember correctly, so.
Thread replies: 330
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