Old thread's over 300...
My quill stem won't come loose from the top bolt, do I just need to use penetrating oil?
You need to loosen it like halfway through then give it a good ol' hammer blow.
>>928378
Sorry for some reason I worded that really stupid, I know that part.
The top screw the hex wrench is in won't loosen up, it's stuck.
>>928379
Yeah try some penetrating oil then. Or get a cheat bar and push like you're delivering triplets.
Dri-Slide Bike Aid is good for that kind of stuff if you need to get oil in there. Poor some in, let it sit for a bit, then try again. Careful not to strip it out if you try too hard to turn it.
Just get WD-40 and spray half of the can between Headset and Stem. Then heat the tube with a torch or a hairdryer on its max heat level and then try to twist it. If its not working, repeat it, if its not working try other chemicals, if its not working you are may about to use Force and Violence
Anyway, if you get the Stem out of it remember to fucking grease the shit out of the Stem and fucking tube when you put it back in again
>>928424
Bad advice
Don't just try a bunch of random chemicals
Use Dri-Slide Bike Aid
And don't carelessly use "force and violence", you'll strip stuff out
>Anyway, if you get the Stem out of it remember to fucking grease the shit out of the Stem and fucking tube when you put it back in again
This however is good advice
>>928424
>wd-40
>>928389
Or you can buy a can of PB Blaster for probably less money for something much larger.
Reccomended bike multitool with a chain breaker?
What's a good decently priced accurate power meter? I really just want to track my progress and improvements.
>>928518
I think the cheapest one you can get is the 4iiii precision, USD$400. But you have to send your crank into them.
Other cheap options are also going to be single-sided only, the stages crank and also pioneer.
>>928521
Would it be worth it just get a left stages crank arm?
>>928522
It's good enough for Three Time Tour de France Winner Team Sky, innit?
>>928523
Do they use stages? Because the 105 5700 stages is only $530. That's not too bad since some can cost well over 1k.
>>928518
I can recommend stages.
Great accuracy, cheap, easy to install and unless you have some serous injury/muscle imbalance then having one sided only wont matter.
>>928517
CB M-17. Have one. Is happy.
I'm fixing up an old Hardrock Ultra and the shifters are fucked, but the brake levers work fine.
I should be able to saw the shifter part off pic related, sand the plastic down, and use the levers, right?
It doesn't seem like it would fuck up the brake lever, but I'm still a bit nervous about doing it.
I'm looking to ride a local trail with some friends. Currently have a road bike with thick slicks on it. The trail is packed limestone. Can you recommend me a 700x 25 or 28 "all terrain" tire I could use for this trail
>>928592
I did this recently. Used a dremel tool and filed the rough edges. Worked fine, didn't look too bad.
My friend asked me to do it. I wouldn't do this janky-ass fix to my own bike though. Wait till you can pony up the dosh to stick a matching pair of shifters on your bike.
>>928654
>Vittoria Randonneur Pro II
Forgive my ingonorance, I ahve an old Miele 10 speed bike. How would i determine the max width I could fit bbetween my frame?
>>928664
Just measure the gap between your fork blades/chainstays, subtract 1-2mm to be safe.
>>928664
>>928694
couldn't hurt to measure the crown clearance as well. I imagine it should be designed for the same clearance as between the fork blades, but you may as well while you've got the ruler down there. redundancy and all that.
come to think of it, I've fitted some balloon tires on a BMX once that cleared the fork blades and stays but not the crown. so yeah. check that.
I wish this stem was more aggressive, but it's like the skinny old size. What should I be looking for?
>>928700 a new bike
>>928517
Topeak MINI 18. I've owned that and a crank bros, the topeak was better
>>928703
thanks, Fred.
Sorry for the probably obvious question, but I'm pretty new to cycling.
I'm having some trouble switching some specific gears on my 21 gear bike. Switching to 1-1 to 1-3, 1-3 to 2-5 is fine, but 2-5 to 3-5 is only engages after I gear it up, keep the trigger pressed and cycle for a while (usually 2-3 minutes).
What can I do to fix that?
>>928707
You're going to have clarify - is it the front or the rear derailer/shifter that aren't working? And is the problem in the shift mechanism, or is it that the chain won't catch the chainring or cog that you want it to move to?
Are there any bike specific disk brakes that can be fitted with switches for brake lights?
>>928709
Oh, sorry.
It's the front shifter that doesn't work. The chain doesn't catch at first, but after a few minutes of cycling it manages to.
What are the practical difference between Continental Force/Attack combo and GP4000s?
Also, should I go for Continental GP4000s this season or should I get Michelin Comp Service Course V2?
>>928711
1. Judging from your description above, are you cross-chaining? (see diagram) If that's what you're doing then you're putting so much strain on the chain that it's going to resist shifting (will also wear out parts faster and be less efficient), the solution is to learn not to go into those gear combinations.
2. Assuming that the problem isn't cross-chaining, the likely culprit is that you need to add more cable tension to the front der. There's a barrel adjuster on your shifters, twist it outwards a turn or two.
>>928714
I wasn't crosschaining and #2 worked. Just tried it out. Thanks.
>>928700
Has anyone had any luck with a stem adapter before?
>>928664
Measure gap between fork blades, chain stays, and seat stays. Make sure to measure all 3 places.
Also, it's okay to have a wider tire up front than in back, mountain bikers often do it. So if you have, say, 32c up front and 28c in back you'll be just fine, the bike will still handle well.
>>928700
The seat post is backwards
Use a stem adapter, and a low-degree stem, new handlebars (if you can't get those out from the stem).
My measurements are 185cm and 86cm which should be L at Giant according to the bike specific size chart. I sat on the L first but didn't take it for a spin. The salesperson recommended ML which wad fine. He also had me try M, which was too short (toptube, reach?).
Similar thing at Rose. Their website says 56 for 86cm on a road bike. I assume this also applies to cyclocross bikes and I will be mostly on road. The recommendation from their salesperson was size 54 and that was the only one I have ridden.
I guess saddle height can be adjusted accordingly for both sizes.
Should I trust the salesperson or go by manufacturers information and try the larger sizes? How do I know which one fits me better?
Thanks in advance.
>>928920
If the salesperson was part of a reputable shop, definitely go with their opinion. While you can usually be pretty sure the size you need from the measurements, nothing is better than actually being on the bike.
It's much better to have a frame that is a bit too small than a bit too large. You can raise the stem and seatpost on a small frame, but on a large frame you are fucked.
It does seem kind of weird that the shop is using S-M-L instead of actually measurements though. Maybe they just use that for people that are new to buying bikes so they can understand easier.
I'd say test ride them all, but the 54cm sounds like your best bet.
>>928930
Do not listen to this anon
>>928920
LBS salespeople often get commissions. Even if they don't, they want to act useful. If they are recommending the wrong size bike based on stock, avoid the store at all costs. You can not trust them, and they're just trying to push what they have on you. It means every other piece of advice you get from them will also be shit.
That's not to say you might not end up preferring the smaller bike. What it means is the store doesn't like stocking things in your size, if they don't sell L bikes, they might not stock lots of L shoes, L shorts, L jerseys, L helmets etc. It also means they're willing to give you bad advice just to make a sale, and such advice is usually worse than worthless.
Anyone here ride on Shimano 300EX components before?
How do they ride? What are they comparable to today?
>>928931
>Do not listen to this anon
They obviously had the larger size in stock if he was sitting on it. There'd be no point in recommending someone the wrong size when you have the right size in stock.
You also realize that by telling him not to listen to me you are also telling him not to test ride before he buys, that 2cm to small isn't better than 2cm to large, and that being on the bike isn't the best way to determine fit?
I understand you may disagree with me on the amount of trust he should place in a shop (for good reason), but by telling him to disregard everything I've said may cause him to disregard what is considered common knowledge on bike fit. Just saying you wouldn't be so quick to trust a shop would be enough.
>>928934
Why didn't he test the L then? 9/10 times is the LBS has an L in some model, but not the model you want, so they want to push the stock they have on you.
>and that being on the bike isn't the best way to determine fit?
It really is not, because the only thing you can adjust is seat height. They usually won't adjust fore-aft, stem height or stem length, or even things like bar, hood and saddle angle. Things like what tires and how inflated they are can give a false sense of handling. The best way is definitely getting fit if you have the money.
Test rides are over-rated. You are almost certainly better off getting a 2-part fitting with the money you save from buying online, and getting your fit, then buying based off of charts, and the taking it in again to be adjusted to your fit specs.
Yes, there are differences between frames. It's dubious if doing a test ride will let you recognize them accurately. 2cm too big or too small. Stem spacers can account for more than that, a saddle in the wrong place could mess up reach, and the frame reach usually only varies 5mm from size to size, that's half the difference between two sizes of stems. What you'll probably notice is if the stem sizes on two bikes are different by 10mm, or the stem heights are set differently with different spacers than and difference in the frame. Thing like handlebar angle, hood angle, seat angle, fore aft, etc can also fuck with your perception of reach.
>>928942
>Why didn't he test the L then
Because the shop seemed to think the M would be a better fit. From what he said, they appeared to have the correct model in L as well, leaving no reason for them to recommend the wrong size.
Asking why he wouldn't test the L also seems contradictory to your later statements that say test riding isn't important.
Also, getting a good fit is very useful, but where should one get this fit if they can't trust any bike shops?
What do you want the guy to do? Buy online, hoped he ordered the correct size, then take it into the shop for a fit?
Sure buying online would be a bit cheaper if he managed to get the right size, but shops are usually willing to haggle a bit more on fitting prices if you are buying a new model from them.
I'm not trying to push the local LBS here. Heck, I do all my own repairs and fittings. I've only gone to the shop once in the last few years for a good wheel true on a rim I just couldn't seem to get right. I don't particularly like going to shops since it seems like they're always trying to gouge me.
Having said that, an LBS can be a valuable resource to someone just starting out that can afford it.
>>928945
>Asking why he wouldn't test the L also seems contradictory to your later statements that say test riding isn't important.
It's not important. But why didn't he? It's because they pushed the ML on him.
>Also, getting a good fit is very useful, but where should one get this fit if they can't trust any bike shops?
A fitter makes his money on his reputation for good work, not sales commissions. And not a bullshit plumb bob fit.
>What do you want the guy to do? Buy online, hoped he ordered the correct size, then take it into the shop for a fit?
I said what he should do if he wants a bike that fits. Get a fit first.
>Sure buying online would be a bit cheaper if he managed to get the right size, but shops are usually willing to haggle a bit more on fitting prices if you are buying a new model from them.
Then he can do that, but it sounds more like you're just shilling for the LBS at this point. Of course, you never go to the LBS, you just happen to know this.
>I'm not trying to push the local LBS here. Heck, I do all my own repairs and fittings.
>I'm not /pol/, I'm a black college educated trangender lesbian woman but even I think...
Although honestly, it's not that awful if you get within one size of your correct size, and most people really should go by the height charts, unless you know you have specific stack/reach needs, and budget a stem or two in, because if you have short legs your torso will be shorter, and if your torso is short your legs will be longer, and a right size according to a chart will usually be a good compromise between the two.
How much food do you take for longer rides? Three or more hours.
I want to ride 100km as a challenge but I don't really want to ride on high traffic roads or have to carry lots of food as I'm climbing steep semi rural roads.
At the moment I carry a bottle with sugar + lots of fruit blended into it and don't really drink more than a mouthful of it until after the ride because I'm only riding like 20 to 40km with some tough climbs. But even if I did drink it I fear it wouldn't be enough for 100km.
I guess I could do a loop back to my house for a snack then go again but i'd rather not.
>>928948
>A fitter makes his money on his reputation for good work, not sales commissions.
The sales person literally makes the same commission of different sizes of bikes. If they had both sizes in stock, it does not benefit the salesperson AT ALL to recommend the wrong size.
So we can both agree that if he were to talk to someone he knows would get him a good fit and bought based off of his opinion, it would be a solid fit?
>Says LBS is good for some things
HE MUST BE SHILLING
>Claims to not be shilling
>Admits the LBS is useless for a lot of things and gouges people
>Claims to not even like the LBS
He must be lying! He's an infiltrator trying to push the global conspiracy of hipsters overcharging people and using the money for overpriced shoes!
>>928949
I usually don't carry that much food unless I know I'll be out for 5 hours+.
I just keep 2 or 3 granola bars in my bag to hold me off and a water bottle (2 if it's hot out) in my cages.
>>928950
>TFW you realize you accidentally became one of those people that shits up the BQG with pointless arguing instead of helping people
>>928949
I put a sandwich or two in my jersey pockets.
>>928949
I bring several energy bars and some shot blocks at the least. Ideally more than I think I'll need.
The thing about long rides is that sometimes you just feel like turning a long ride into an epic. You get into the groove and you just want to keep going, so you do.
BBG is dead as fuck, so I'm reposting here. Sue me.
I think I'm going to look at an old Diamondback roadie.
I'm pretty sure it's a Momentum, but I can't be positive. If it is, it should have the shimano 300ex group.
What do you guys think, is it worth $75?
So I've got an 8 mile commute to work and think I want to purchase a bicycle to make the trip on, for some exercise.
I have no idea what to look for in a bicycle nor where I ought to buy one, but I think I can easily fork over $300ish for something. Unless there are some compelling reasons to drop double that.
Please help, /bqg/
>>928959
What is your commute like? All road? Some gravel? Shitty roads?
How tall and heavy are you? This isn't for us fining a proper fit, but to see how strong of a wheelset you will need.
Do you have any preference to the kind of bike (road, MTB, etc.)?
Do you plan on only using it to commute, or would you also like to use it for group or trail rides?
On a $300 budget, buying secondhand will be your best bet. Post your local craigslist and maybe we can find a decent deal in your area.
>>928933
They're okay. Pretty much bottom of the barrel, but they work. If they're SIS, switch the rear shifter to friction mode because Shimano's indexing was clunky back in those days, especially on the lower-tier groupsets.
Today's equivalent would be Claris.
>>928949
3h I might bring some banana bread or something along. I'll bring a little more if I plan on going longer, but if I'm planning on 5h+, there's gotta be a stop at a cafe or something.
My biggest problem is water. My body burns through tons of it, so I have to make sure to bring two bidons full and have places to stop for refills. On days that are supposed to get hot, I even bring along a 100oz hydration pack and some salt tablets.
>>928958
For $75 that looks like decent basic transportation. I'd go for it.
>>928982
You might not know since you don't cage, or actually, some cagers might not even know this, but on cars and motorcycles, when you press on the brakes, there's a little switch that turns on the brake lights.
>>928985
Bicycle brake lights that I'm aware of generally operate via accelerometer or w/e rather than switches.
>>928985
I think that on a bike it would work better to incorporate it into the brake lever than the brake mechanism... idk though
Do marathons have the same catastrophic lack of grip memeskins do?
>>928990
>catastrophic lack of grip
Memeskins are not the grippiest, but they aren't so bad and they are predictable on dry pavement when they are about to lose their traction
>>928990
>catastrophic
have you tried riding slower in the rain? if it surprises you that your "memeskins" are losing their grip in the wet, this would be a good time for you to find out that this is a property that all tires have.
>>929020
I've never actually ridden gatorskins at all, but have ridden various other tyres and punctures here and there are starting to really wear my patience thin.
follow up to >>928920
>Why didn't he test the L then?
I sat on the L first. He said a smaller frame (ML) and higher saddle would be better than a bigger frame (L) with lower saddle. Reason being the DFuse-bling-word-seatpost cushions best when expanded most. Which is why I didn't take the L for a spin.
I clearly noticed the M to be too small but after leaving kept me wondering if L would fit or be too large.
It didn't seem to me that he was pushing stock. Size ML is 54.5 cm and L 55.5 cm according to Giant's website btw.
At Rose he have me a bike by height/inseam (56 cm I think?) to sit on inside. He recommended the smaller frame, which was 54, and brought it outside. There he adjusted the saddle and gave me some time to try it around the parking lot.
So I have to ride both sizes before choosing to compare big and small frames. I will ask about fit before the purchase. Good to know that a bit too small is better than a bit too big.
>>929022
It's pretty well known that gskins are way worse than average in the wet and on dirt. The last time I had them on a bike in the wet, I could sometimes spin the rear wheel like it was on a stainless steel flywheel. Their grip in dry weather is good, but they still have crappy road feel.
Marathons are okay in the wet. Mara Supremes are better. They don't roll that great though. GP 4 Seasons are really good. Good grip, roll well, not bad for punctures. Pasela TGs are another common choice. The weird thing about them is that they're okay at everything. They're the most okay thing you can buy. It's like Panasonic's goal for them was to not be notable in any way.
>>929026
I don't know about your place, but some shops actually provide a fit for free if you're buying a new model (or maybe it's only if you spend something more than x amount).
If it's a 1 cm difference, it doesn't really matter THAT much. The only reason it would really matter is if the L was up in your junk when you stand over the bike. Apart from that, you probably wouldn't be able to distinguish much of a difference with proper adjustments (fit).
did somebody ever buy something from alibaba? i've found mavic bibs or pearl izumi and for the prices they get sold they have to be 100% fake, but i just want a cheap pant for commuting and i don't mind replacing it each 6 month
Today coming from college my bike started to scream like a train stopping.
Felt the cranks move side to side so I tighten them, just to realize the that that wasn't the problem, I think it's the bottom bracket.
My bike is just a beater, do you think it's better to fix it on my own buying parts and tools or just give it to my mechanic and forget about it?
I would like the cheapest way to hit the streets again with her.
>>929096
just visit it and tell the owner that some parts are fucked and demand 70 for it, then it might be a good price
One of the best ways is to ask if they ever changed the bearings and/if the grease or even serviced it, thats where most people don't know shit and tell you that everything's fine. Then you tell them about the Rustmonster and then you just move the Fork and say that it clearly sounds like the bearings are rubbing too much, hence no greace, thus there may be rust in there (As long as the frame is steel it'll work fine)
>>928846
Thanks bruh, I just flipped the standard clamp back.
I guess really is how do you know what size to stem adapter to get? I guess they are all roughly like an inch? Should I just ask my Lbs about this shit?
I have general mechanical knowledge however, I want to attempt to service my bike. It needs some cleaning and I love to tinker with stuff. I've never done things like service and re grease/pack bottom bracket and front and rear axles. I am going to buy a maintenence book with instructions. My questions are, what specialty tools would I need for this? Things I can think of are a free wheel wrench and grease. Anything else?
>>929103
you'll need a crank arm puller to get at the bottom bracket, there's really no alternative unfortunately.
cone wrenches for the hub/axles. the lock nuts you can use a rachet/box wrench/crescent wrench but the flat that the spanner fits with on the cones is _very_ thin so you need thin spanners called cone wrenches.
you may need special headset spanners to get into your headset depending on what you have.
maybe a chain tool if you don't have a masterlink on your chain.
parktool.com
sheldonbrown.com
>>929106
Thank you anon
>>929109
Also, what grease / lube/ oil do I need for each of those areas?
>>929110
Get a tub of wheel bearing grease from an autoparts store.
>>929094
If it really is the bottom bracket, it's better to fix that yourself. It isn't that hard.
First you want to check if it is a cartridge or axle bottom bracket (check good ole sheldon brown for info on how to tell).
If it's an axle BB, take it apart, clean and degrease, then assess the damage. If the axle and cups look fine, replace the ball bearings, grease everything up, and put it back together.
If it's a sealed cartridge BB, you'll have to buy a new one. On the bright side, replacing a cartridge is much easier than servicing an axle BB.
If I pull my crank off will it die?
>>929113
If you fuck it up, maybe.
Cranks are supposed to be able to be removed.
Well, except for maybe cottered cranks, but we don't talk about those.
>>929113
use Sheldon Brown or Park Tool
Make sure to use the right tool. If you use a tool for the wrong type of crank, or if you use it with the little head thing missing from the tool, you'll break stuff.
>>929110
Chain lube for chain. Grease for everything else. I recommend Phil Wood waterproof grease. You can get a big tub of it cheap on ebay.
Has anyone rode for Favor? If so, is there anything i should know or be worried about?
I'm just doing it for music festival a few times a year.
>>929174
sxsw? It's gonna be hot out there, mane. Stay hydrated, it's easy to get free beer.
I'm building up an allright bike commuter / crusing bike from spares I have + some budget new parts.
and I intend to sell it.
I life in a rather flat university town.
should I go singlespeed or 1x7 ?
If I go 1x7 I would use a suntour acushift plus bar end shifter with a dx crank and a dx wheelset.
this would work , right ?
singlespeed would be the same wheelset with a singlespeed kit.
do people even get 1x drive trains or is that to " next lvl" ?
>>929210
If it's really flat enough for SS to be enough to commute with, stick with SS for maximum simplicity and minimum cost - a college kid wanting a cheap commuter bike isn't going to pay extra for a 1x setup that doesn't obviously offer and advantage in your area.
>>929213
good point
I'm picking up a used 2011 Ridley Orion this weekend for a pretty good price. It's not too old, but what should I be looking for to make sure it's in good shape? I know specifically the rims and the bottom bracket and the chassis particularity
>>929291
If you're calling anything on a bike 'the chassis' you're not qualified to make any judgement calls. It doesn't matter what we tell you to look for.
Go online if you're strapped for cash.
I came across this today:
http://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_STOR20.cgi?Action=Details&ProdID=3011
It looks like for $150 you get a carbon fork, a 3 piece crank, a bottom bracket, shitty pedals, shitty brake levers, a freewheel, shitty rims on formula hubs (flip-flop), shitty kenda tires and tubes, KMC chain, handlebars, wrap, headset (1-1/8), stem, saddle, seatpost, and clamp.
Everything needed for a lower quality fixie minus the frame.
Am I crazy, or does this seem like a really good deal?
>>929315
That was supposed to say cassette** fuck androids
>>929317
Cassettes and bottom brackets are quite litteraly the cheapest wear and tear parts on a bike. They're in the same 10-15€ price range as a chain, or a nice bar tape.
Why in the name of spaghetti monster would that be shit to pay any attention too if you're buying a used bike? Shit's going to be worn. Never mind exactly how worn the cheapest stuff is - it getting replace sooner or later anyway. The difference between 'half worn' and 'in urgent need of replacement' is half the value of the 10€ parts.
>>929316
It's a good deal yeah. If you have a frame already for sure. Otherwise buying a new bd track bike will cost a similar amount in the end.
>>929322
I need a new set of SS wheels, and this is only a bit more than DP-18s on formula hubs.
What I was thinking about doing is buying it for some parts and selling the ones I don't need.
On CL that fork would go for what, $40? The crank for $10? The bars, tape, and levers for $40?
If I could manage to get those prices in my market (college town) I would have just paid for $90 of it from those alone.
>>929323
I guess if you want to be extremely cheap. But DP18s are way better rims, I'd just spring for those.
>>929323
If you keep buying shitty machine built China wheels with non-existent QA you're going to keep needing new wheels all the time. Spend the time and effort you were planning to invest in tearing that piece of garbage down and then flogging the parts, either working for money to get a proper wheelset built, or rebuildning the wheels you have.
This will be both cheaper, more satisfying and give a better result in the long run.
>>929326
>>929325
This isn't for my main bike by any means, guys. I'm fully aware of just how shit those rims are.
I usually ride either a trek with CXP-22s or a Bianchi with Araya CTL-370s. I just need something to throw on an old UO-8 to get it running again. Springing $150 on a bottom tier bike-boom frame seems like a bad move to me.
>>929329
And what about the option of relacing the rims that came with the UO-8? That will be the cheapest option of all, keep the bike period correct and the gears working.
Because you didn't buy a UO-8 _frame_, did you?
>>929332
I don't have the wheels or I probably would have done that. At the time I had the bike minus the frame and some spare SS wheels. The most economical option was to pull off the shifters and derailleurs, and slap on a new crank.
This thing is my ultimate beater. It's been through hell and back, but that frame just won't die.
>>929335
Minus the wheels. Damn typos.
>>928376
It's "stuck" because you're not using the right tool. A stem bolt like that needs a hex wrench with some actual torque. That little thing you're using is for quick work working on brakes and derailleurs and the like.
>>>/v/329586948
/v/ are making fun of us.
>>929351
/v/ is one of the few boards more autistic than /n/.
Why should we care?
What do you lose by choosing a folding bike? They seem so convenient I'm wondering why I wouldn't get one.
>>929335
Help it along with a hacksaw.
On a more serious note, I don't see the point in investing time and money to create shit that you then have to live with. It's lose, lose ... and lose. I mean, you already know it'll make you miserable in the end, but you go ahead anyway.
Who cares if the frame 'deserves' it? The only sentient being involved here is you, and it's you that is going to ride those wheels on that frame every(?) day.
If you think the frame is shit then kill it too. Life is too short to ride crappy bikes.
>>929358
Probably shit at hills
>>929358
The main disadvantages to a folder are that a folding frame with a single main tube is going to flex a lot more than a standard frame, and the smaller your wheels are the harder is it roll over bumps and ledges.
>>929358
I wanted to get a folding bike but decided not to especially with knee deep snow. If you have a commuter bike and looking for another bike to add to your stable then sure. I wouldn't use it as a year round workhorse. The wheels would be too small for comfort.
>>929091
I've bought stuff from aliexpress, which is part of the alibaba thing, just be careful with whoever sells the items, check if they have tons of confirmed orders, and read the feedback.
I bought a YowaPeda HakoGaku jersey/bibs and it's been great. Good quality, after a year of use it's still ok.
I just had an idea... Touring on a Gravity Zilla, and along the way ditching the bags and slicks to ride cross country mtb trails. Thoughts?
I've mountain biked a lot and realize it won't be optimal on the trails (mostly because <45c tires) which is fine, I've cyclocross'd trails before.
And yeah, the frames ugly but whatever it wouldn't be for looking at.
>>929457
Honestly I wouldn't want to ride that for more than a day, although all my touring has been on roads and paths.
>>929460
Aside from the knobbies in the picture, elaborate?
>>929463
The geometry just looks slow, also the seat doesn't look comfortable.
difference between suntour epicon and epixon? is one a cheap chinese knockoff?
What's a good starter bike (2nd hand) that I could pick up on ebay/gumtree etc in the uk?
Budget is £150 tops.
Only light trails and riding through fields etc
Seems like there are lots of 3/4 year old carrera bikes, a few GT etc.
I'm in south wales to be specific
>>929321
11-speed cassettes and chains cost like $50+ each dood
I am planning a 900ish mile bike tour. I bought a bike for it but want to upgrade the tires. Are the "Schwalbe Marathon Plus HS 348" a good choice? What are some other good options? Also should I pack a backup tire? Maybe just use the stock tire as a backup.
>>929564
The Plus is heavy, slow, and should be basically indestructible.
Don't know if you need the extra puncture protection over the standard marathons but you certainly would care less about the downsides.
As for a spare tyre, so long as it's a folding tyre you should be good. Save a lot of space.
>>929572
But Schwalbe marathon as a tire brand is a pretty good bet?
>>929574
Absolutely. You might need to look up some tricks to actually get them on though, from what I've heard.
>>929536
I'm not too familiar with your area, but I know across the US the Specialized Hardrock is common and can be had for very little.
They aren't fantastic by any means, but they will get the job done, hold up to abuse, and definitely give you more than what you'd expect out of a $50 bike.
>>929564
Marathon+ are probably the only bike tires that will shrug off nails. If you have them I don't really think that you need to deal with the extra 2 pounds a backup would weigh. Oh and they're really bloody harsh and not particularly wunderbar in the wet.
You might like the Marathon Mondial folding more. Slightly less puncture protection, but lighter, more versatile for dirt and gravel, roll ok, and have better feel than the Plus, although I wouldn't call them plush. Just a bit less like bricks. Note that the folding version is better than the wire bead version...they're really two completely different tires marketed under the same name.
Some people are just saying fug it and going with Compass tires for plush ride + speed at the expense of much less anti-puncture armor (although there's a theory floating around that fatter tire + lower pressure = less punctures because the tire just deforms and rolls over the object instead of pushing hard against it and getting an equal and opposite reaction from the thing that shoves it into the tire). I wouldn't do that for a tour in a 3rd world country, but if I were going around the US or Japan or Europe I'd likely go for it. I would bring a spare because they weigh fuckall.
so.
I'm very tempted to slap some 650b wheels on my 700c commuter.
is this stupid.
I currently run 28x700 if I'd go for something like 42x650b the diameter shouldn't change much.
will the rolling resistence kill me ?
if I run the at the same or even higher pressure, shouldn't the rolling resistance be even lower ?
>>928592
I was thinking that move on two seperate bikes latley.
please do it and report back.
take pics please
>>928959
go second hand man.
don't get some weird hybrid with shox.
90s mtbs are cheap , hot , and great beginner bikes.
>>929316
>http://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_STOR20.cgi?Action=Details&ProdID=3011
dang, that's a killer deal for a pissing about/ commuter fixie
>>929323
build some yourselfe.
I tottaly dig mach1 rims ,cfx are great.
super cheap and nice.
also building wheels really isn't hard.
my ss wheels where my first set , I'Ve been riding them for about a year an thei're still fine.
>>929536
meassure you inseam and drop by in the bbg
>>929700
You'll need to swap brake calipers for longer reach ones. how much longer depends on your frame. measure the reach of your current brakes and add 19mm. And make sure that your fork and frame has clearance for 42mm.
You also need to make sure you have the right amount of bottom bracket drop. If your bike's geometry charts don't specify it, or if the charts aren't available, measure the radius of one wheel center to ground, then measure your bottom bracket height, again center to ground. Subtract that from your first measurement. If the result is 70mm or more, you probably won't have enough pedal clearance.
Rolling resistance won't be a problem. It depends more on tire selection than width. Don't run the fatter tires at higher pressures, that'll accomplish little.
I got my first pair of Speedplay Zeros (stainless) four days ago and literally cannot clip into the left cleat while riding or while leaned up against a wall.
The screws in the bottom plate are installed with the recommended torque, the springs are lubed with dry lube with the correct side facing up, and the shims fit the underside of my shoes perfectly. The right side is almost impossible to clip into, but the left is pretty much non-functional to me.
I have even tried lining my foot onto the pedals perfectly and pulling up on the top tube as hard as I can (leaned on a wall) while pressing down with enough force to considerably flex my cranks and frame. I have tried every possible angle and have tried locking the float as well as increasing the float to no avail.
Has anyone had any problems like this with their Speedplays? Is this likely a manufacturer defect? Should I contact Speedplay and start bitching or maybe see if I can get a refund at my LBS? I have no idea what to do, but if I can't get my money back I'm going to take a Dremel to these little fuckers until they clip in.
>>929716
Why wouldn't you just take them to the shop and ask them?
Anyway this is what you get for not buying Shimano
>>929716
Are the C springs upside down?
>>929717
I already own plenty of Shimano gear. Never had a single problem with any of it. I can't go into my shop for another few days because I'm recovering from influenza and thought I might get some dope internet opinions before I bother them about it.
>>929718
Nope, but that's pretty much what it feels like.
>>929711
great !
thanks for the insight
My casette keeps yanking the chain while coasting, what do I need to replace/tighten?
I own a trek 520 disc touring bike, after a year of onroad touring with the stock 700cc wheels im interested in moving offroad. I wacked some 26' mtb whels on which feels pretty good except for the lowered bb height. Am i a fool to purchase a set of 650b wheels and just use them instead of investing in a bike better suited for the purpse? If anyone has any experience with 650b wheel conversions where there any other problems which you encountered??
>>929815
Couldn't you just put 29er knobblies on the stock wheels?
>>929815
You don't need smaller wheels to offroad, just get some knobbies for 700c wheels like the bike's built for.
>>929817
Doubt there's clearance for 29", cyclocross tires for sure though.
>>929820
I'm extremely skeptical... If it can handle touring tires and fenders it can handle cyclocross tires.
>>929822
cyclocross tyres sure, but im talking bigger tyres for a plusher ride, i doubt it could fit 700/40 knobbies like the wtb nano 40c
I'm putting together a new crankset, and the outer chainring I bought has a hole for the little pin that catches your chain if you overshift, but the pin itself is missing. What's still called and where can I buy one? My google-fu is weak today, and using a small shoulder bolt seems kinda janky.
>>929825
If your offroading requires higher volume you want a completely different bike. It's not just about the clearance issue, you'd want different geometry anyways.
To answer your question though - going 650b would be no problem especially since discs. They're closer in size to 26" than 700c though, it won't be that much difference really.
>>929759
Your cassette internals are probably in need of a good lubing up
>>929759
Your freehub body needs some love. Cleaning, greasing and possibly replacing bearings. Or replacing the whole body about once per season if you have Mavic frogeater wheels.
>>929815
You gain less than half an inch/12mm of BB height from going 26"→27.5". Unspecified 'less than' because thats before tyre compression under load, and the larger volume of a 27.5" tyre will compress more at equal pressure. Real world, you're probably looking at 10mm or so.
Just ride it for a bit with the 26" wheels, and get a second bike for offroading if you like it.
>>929815
If the tier clearance is okay slap 29er knobbies on and be happy
can I replace the freewheel on a 10 speed with something to fit a 120mm alu rear ?
>>929863
No. It's not just the freehub, it's the axle and hub shell too. Buy a new hub and relace.
Can you guys point me toward a bike fitting guide (80-90 style road bikes) I got a 58cm and I think it's too big. Preferably with pictures
would it be possible to fit 650b wheels with 2 inch tyres on a frame which is 700c with clearance for 40mm tyres.
I'm building a road bike and the only thing I have left to decide on is the groupset. For a while I was set on 105, since I have 105 hubs already on the wheels, but recently I've been looking at SRAM Rival or Apex and now I'm kind of torn between the two brands. Every other forum I've looked on has had people just saying "I like X because [personal anecdote]" so I figured I would come to /n/ and see what you guys say? Any input from anyone?
>>930240
If you have small hands, go SRAM. The geometry of the shfiter gives you much, much better leverage when braking. That's my main reason for just having started migrating my fleet away from Shimano.
If you have big hands and long fingers, you can pick up a 105 5800 groupset for a good deal less than a Rival22.
But then Rival22 has the Yaw FD that means you never have to trim, and that's one feature I'd very much like to have. My next groupset upgrade will be a Rival22 to be sure.
>being allergic to chain noise
>>930240
I have Rival 22 and 5800, the only thing good about SRAM is no trim, weight and 16t cog. Otherwise I far prefer 5800.
What does it mean for a frame to be stiff? Like I've never experienced my steel frame flexing. Or is something like "once you go <> you never go back"?
>>930270
it's an issue for out of shape dentists riding 700 gram frames designed for people much lighter than they are
It is far from being any sort of issue for a normal-size healthy rider on a typical everyday double butted steel frame
>>930102
this is all I have
>>930102
The classic tule of thumb is to be able to fit two or three fingers between the top tube and you crotch when straddling it, feet fully planted.
If that rule was questionable then it's completely out the window now, with all the strangely curved or sloping top tube designs going on.
Though at no time should you not be able to stand over the top tube without crushing your junk. If you can't, the frame is too large or the frame designer an idiot. Possibly both.
>>930270
It's laterally stiff so the frame doesn't flex which affects your power output. It's not really a concern unless you are putting down a ridiculous amount of power.
In general, what is squealing from the drivetrain indicative of? I think it's the rear that's squealing in my case
>>930333
I'm the second anon. All that being said, despite the better front shifting, I really hate that shifting to the small ring puts you in the hi trim instead of the low trim
The spring bit on my front derailer broke. Should I bother trying to fix/replace that part, or just get a whole new one? If I replace it, does it matter too much what kind? It's a Tiagra 4503.
>>930389
A squeaky chain or something rubbing as the wheel goes around are the most common issues, but there's plenty of moving parts that can make noise. You can often work out what exactly is squealing by getting on the bike and paying attention to what is moving when the noise occurs - does it happen when you pedal? when you coast? only in one kind of gear or in all the gears? Check those and report back.
>>930401
Replacing is the only option, and essentially any Shimano road triple will work as long as it has the same clamping size/style as your current one. It's also possible to mix front derailers and shifters (make, model, era), there are many of combinations that work because front derailers are extremely simple devices, but it's too complicated to explain that here - I mention it only because if you have a local shop that has more than just brand new parts, odds are pretty good they can find you an inexpensive older derailer that will work the same as a new one.
>>930270
>>930273
The approach to stiffness in road biking is different to that in mountain biking.
In mountain biking, the tiny flexing of the frame makes for a smoother ride. You might actually want a frame that isn't "stiff".
In road biking, you want all your force to go straight to the pedals, so any flexing is bad.
And of course, fat people create more flex with their consummate bulk. I managed to bend my skinny seat post, so now I can't drop it for gnarly downhill sections :(
What's the best way to isolate road vibrations from coming through my pedals? I'm getting a lot of road chatter on my feet and it's pretty uncomfy.
>>930406
First, are your shoes too tight? It's kind of odd that you'd have discomfort from riding on rough roads in your feet without also having problems with hands, neck, and back (from holding an uncomfortable compensatory posture).
Second, if you're already wearing comfortable shoes, the solution will likely be wider tires and/or lower tire pressure so that the whole bike isn't shaking your about so much.
Why are there so many fucking specialty tools in bike repair? Is Mr. Shekelstein designing all the bike components?
>>930407
It's entirely possible that my shoes are too tight. I'm relatively new to riding clipless, and I've been treating them like I would ski boots (my closest analog), where tighter is better.
>>930414
>Is Mr. Shekelstein designing all the bike components?
Yes and no. Before the 1970's most things on a bike could be fixed with a handful of simple wrenches - since then, technical developments have improved a vast array of bike parts and a lot of specialized tools became necessary because of strong consumer preference for the many new parts that become available with advances in metalurgy, machining, and manufacturing. Also on the 'no' side, it should be remembered that part of why there are so many proprietary fittings that require special tools is because of patent laws - manufacturers want to keep up with innovations that consumers demand, but they can't produce exact copies of what their competitors are making, so they make a few slight tweaks to a product and release it under their own name (eg: Campy vs Shimano freehub bodies).
But that said, manufacturers are often guilty of introducing proprietary parts for no real reason other than to lock up market share for their brand. Bottom bracket shell 'standards' are particularly egregious, as are saddles with non-standard rails, and non-standard chainrings.
>>930418
Yeah, bike cleats aren't worn as tight as ski boots, they fit more like ordinary street shoes, though you'll want to tighten the straps beyond that point before going into a really hard sprint. If you ride with shoes that are too tight you'll end up developing blisters and/or suffer painfully numb feet because you've restricted bloodflow.
>>930433
I have a bike that uses a carbon belt, no grease or oil, can change gears instantly while still
>>930445
Yep, the labor isn't the problem - the real issues are being able to find the correct replacement part, and that most derailers aren't made so that you can access the spring.
What is more comfy
A cambium or a sprung flyer imperial ?
>>930452
The only one who can answer that question is your butt. They might both be horribly uncomfortable to you. Try to demo them and have an in-depth discussion with your butt about how it really felt.
>changed to new housing and shifters
>used to almost break my thumb trying to shift
>now it shifts itself when i hit bumps on the road
it's one of those 90's mtb shifters. friction but it has clicks. Is there a way to tighten it?
>>930465
They're the same cut
So all that changes is the cushyness
>>930476
The flyer is twice the weight tho which is fucking UNACCEPTABLE.
>>930433
Thanks bud, its just frustrating that I have to buy one bb tool to remove my current bb. Then get another one to install a new bb.
>>930469
grip shifter?
>>930479
I should specify it's going on a touring bike so weight is not an issue
>>930469
If it's a 90's Shimano thumbshifter (and the basic idea applies to any other thumbshifter you find without an obvious screw or lever to turn) the tension adjustment is done by unbolting the unit on the bottom of the mech that connects it to the handlebar - then you can take the plastic cover off and adjust tension by turning the topmost nut seen in this picture.
>>930499
shit, forgot image
>>930503
thanks bud
>>930476
The Flyer Imperial is somewhat wider than the Cambium. The Cambium is closer to the Team Pro, which I'm really not too fond of. I have a B17 on one of my bikes, and a Swallow on another, and I love them both, so it would stand to reason that the saddle that is supposedly right in between the two in width would be great, but nope. Similarly, I tried the Cambium on an admittedly short ride and wasn't all that impressed. Maybe because I was in a bad mood because the Selle SMP that I tried earlier in the day did its best to ruin my ass.
I'm probably going to replace the Team Pro with a Berthoud Galibier, partly because Berthoud's leather is higher quality than Brooks these days, and partly because Berthoud has been absorbing the bike over the past couple of years and turning it into a snotty randothing so why not keep going that way.
Have any of you tried these or know of someone who has?
https://secure.yoursole.com/us/mens/footbeds
The kid got clipped by an electric bike on the way to school and his front wheel's buckled.
I can true a wheel and I'll give it a shot but I wondered...
How buckled is too buckled?
When is it not worth the trouble or not possible to true and is it actually just dangerous to try and fix a big enough buckle?
>>930761
If the rim has a bend to but no cracks you can loosen the tension of the wheel and manualy straighten the rim. Will work reasonably well on steel rims. Alloy wheels take less kindly to being bedly bent out of shape and may well crack when you bent it back.
Do not just add spoke tension to force a badly cooked rim into shape. If it's less than a few millimetres out of true you could probably trim it out with spoke tension without worry.
>>930761
in my experience, as long as it's not taco'd, it can be trued.
the worst one I ever did was pretty close to a taco but not all the way. trying a standard truing, it would just make it buckle the opposite way, so what I did was loosen ALL the spokes most of the way, to where the hub was kinda hanging there rather than suspended. then I put the bent parts of the rim against a door frame and pushed them straight by gripping the two farthest parts from the bends and pushing with all my weight until the rim was as straight as I could get it, then tightening up all the nipples and proceeding to a regular true-stand true. almost like a full build, but it worked.
this was an old Araya box rim which is on my daily driver and it's totally fine. fixed probably around 3 years ago. a week or so after the above, I had to do a little maintenance on it, and maybe one other time the next week, but once it "settled" I haven't touched it since.
>>930768
>loosen the tension of the wheel and manualy straighten the rim. Will work reasonably well on steel rims. Alloy wheels take less kindly to being bedly bent out of shape and may well crack when you bent it back.
Thanks. I'll see what it's made of. It's a Chinese single-speed mtb so probably Al but maybe steel.
>>930782
>put the bent parts of the rim against a door frame and pushed them straight
That's a good idea, I'll give it a go. I don't have a workbench or vice to use with it, so a door frame is probably quite good.
What's the deal on tubeless tires on a road bike? I've heard a few things regarding them:
>A tubeless setup is better than a standard tube setup for road racing
>Tubeless is lighter
>People generally run their tubeless tires at significantly lower pressure, and this is seen as an advantage (something like 80-95psi rather than 110-125)
Normally, higher pressure means lower rolling resistance and more speed, at least that's my understanding. Obviously the reduced weight from tubeless is a plus for racing, but I think that a significant difference in pressure and rolling resistance would make more difference than a slightly lighter tire setup. So I have a few questions:
>Do you agree that tubeless is the ideal setup for road racing?
>Is it okay to run road tubeless tires at the same pressure as standard road tires, say 125psi?
>Do people normally run tubeless setups at a high pressure (i.e. 125) during races, and only go down to 80-95 for comfort when not racing?
>If people normally run tubeless tires at lower-than-normal pressure even during races, and/or if tubeless tires can't be filled to as high of a pressure, then why do many people claim tubeless is the best setup for road racing? Doesn't the significantly lower pressure increase rolling resistance, decrease speed, and ultimately hinder a racer's performance?
Thanks /n/iggers. Getting into racing this summer for the first time, gotta figure some of this stuff out.
>>930794
>Normally, higher pressure means lower rolling resistance and more speed, at least that's my understanding.
Only if the riding surface is perfectly flat. On a real road excessive pressure will rattle both the bike and the rider. All that energy comes from your legs in the end. Better to rattle only the few grams of rubber closest to the road than 80-90kg or so of bike and rider.
So no, higher pressure might not necessarily mean lower losses under real world conditions.
The main point of tubeless is no pinch flats and equal rolling resistance at lower pressure. Because you don't have a tube and separate tyre, you don't get losses to friction or shear between the two at low pressure.
Best lock for just locking bike up for 10 minutes @ a cafe stop?
I often wear bib shorts many times in a row, maybe wash them every 25 or so rides. I haven't encountered any problems so far, am I at risk for anything? I only have one pair and am a poor uni student so can't drop $500 on four more pairs of shorts for every day of the week.
>>930800
Thanks. A few follow ups.
>What, in your opinion, would be the ideal pressure for road racing with a tubeless setup on good condition smooth roads, for a rider weighing around 70-75kg?
>How high can tubeless road tires safely go?
>On a really smooth course, would it be best to still go to the standard 125psi or so even with tubeless?
>Under typical conditions, about what pressure tubeless tire would have the same rolling resistance as a standard tube setup at 125psi?
Thanks, anon, your input is very appreciated.
>>930817
Depending on the area, a mid or high strength u-lock, using Sheldon's locking method
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html
Hi /n/ something I've always wondered. How does one pee in those bib shorts? Do you have to remove your jersey then fold it down. Do some come with a fly? What's the go?
>>930850
Just reach for your willie and pull it out of the short. If it's chilly and rainy don't bother, just get that warm stream going.
I have a triple crankset but only my largest is worn. I can't get the original again so the internet tells me one the same size, with the same number of bolts and the same distance between bolts is fine. Do I have that right?
>>930859
The one thing you shouldn't cheap out on are your shorts/bibs.
Familia, just need confirmation.
A 1-1/8 Thredless stem adapter like pic related typically fits all 90's mtb's so I can put a stem on this ish?
>adapter+Steam is all I'll need, right?
>>930868
You want to make sure it is 1 1/8" threaded bottom (25.4mm), and 1 1/8 threadless top (28.6mm)
Then yes, you just put the stem on. Sometimes it's lighter and stiffer than a quill stem, because the threadless part of the stem is larger and hollow, and an external clamp wrapping around a shaft is very secure. Nitto actually used to make a number of "reversible" stems that worked in the same way as a threadless stem on a converter, except it wasn't a converter, because, it was just part of the stem design. These were not adapters. Some had square shafts, others had 22.2mm round shafts. I really have no idea what they were used for, but the very well could have been useful for a rinko bike.
>>930850
One of the big advantages of shorts. Bibs are literally a meme. And this is coming from someone who randonneurs.
>>930876
>others had 22.2mm round shafts. I really have no idea what they were used for
Possibly the old French frames? Peugeots and the like.
>>930879
22.2 is standard for 1" threaded steerers. 22.0 is for 25mm steerers. The point is, the reversible stems with threadless-style clamp on stems were not usable with threadless headsets, they actually probably came before threadless headsets. The closest equivalent would be braze-in clamp-on stems, but using a quill adapter instead of a brazed in tube.
>>930860
Santic stuff is pretty good quality, and you can get bibs for around $30. I'd rather splash out a little extra and get something made in the US like Voler or Ibex, but when ya can't afford that, may as well buy direct from China.
>>930836
http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews/schwalbe-pro-one-tubeless-2016
Max pressure is listed as 110.
Rolling resistance is .5 W more per tyre than conti GP4kSII with latex tubes.
>On a really smooth course, would it be best to still go to the standard 125psi or so even with tubeless?
Probably just put them up the stated limit. I know the GCN video in on of the middle eastern races they were all saying their tubulars were at 140 PSI or so, the roads must be good out there.
>>930835
>maybe wash them every 25 or so rides. I haven't encountered any problems so far, am I at risk for anything?
Any kind of shorts would put you at risk of fungal infections but something where you're always hot and sweaty is even worse.
Hand-washing might not even be enough, you need to be washing them really thoroughly. Ask your doctor about fungal infections.
>>930877
>One of the big advantages of shorts. Bibs are literally a meme
One advantage of bibs is not having the top of tight shorts flip over, which happens if you're a bit tubby wearing tight, thin clothes over your gut. /fit/ probably don't has an issue with it.
>>930835
Just buy (noname) bibs on Alibaba, did the same and just paid 10 Eur each pair and so far they are in pretty good shape after 6 months
>>930835
hand wash in the shower after every ride with mild soap.
machine-wash with detergent once a week.
Completely new to biking outside of riding as a kid, found an old Maxima Sport Univega at a garage sale for about 10 bucks. Is the brand notable, and what sort of riding is this particular model best suited for? It looks to be in decent enough condition, should be downright pretty when I clean it up, but outside of the brakes what are the major parts I should check before taking it out on a long ride? I noticed it shifted gears a few times without me messing with the gearshifts during a short test ride, not sure if it's supposed to do that or if the chain needs to be messed with. Also, no kickstand, which I'm not used to. I assume that's normal for bikes of the time, though.
Picture attached isn't mine but it's the same model.
As an aside, what's /n/'s preferred bike mount for SUVs? I'm pretty cheap so I'd prefer nothing too fancy, but I sure don't want it falling off the back.
>>930908
http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Sports-Deluxe-2-Bike-Trunk/dp/B00TRTSAZM
I've got this one. Works great, no complaints.
>>930915
Sorry, lied. This is the one I have:
http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Sports-Premier-2-Bike-Trunk/dp/B00ASSR020
i can't shift down anymore with my front derailleur, the cable is pretty fucked though and when i try to shift i do get a click but no resistance, i can click two times more, thats 1 time too much. is my brifter fucked or do i just need to replace the cable? feels like the cable isn't properly engaged inside the brifter
>>930908
That's a nice bike man. You can do whatever you want on it.
Road bikes usually don't come with kickstands regardless of age.
You probably need to adjust your derailleurs to keep it from shifting on it's own. Look up GCN on Youtube for any DIY and other helpful videos like how to adjust derailleurs.
Depending on it's age, you might want to replace the chain as well. They have a video on that too.
SKS mudguards are shit, never getting plastic mudguards again, only for sportier bikes.
I mean they're fucking brilliant at keeping you dry but they warp and twist and bend, and the stays are shit so it often means they'll rub, and they were an absolute cunt to fit.
What are the Velo Orange metal ones like? Do they weigh a tonne?
For touring bikes and commuting btw, would obviously get plastic for a sanic bike.
>>930935
Aluminum fenders are much lighter, and much stiffer. They're also much easier to damage, implode and cause you to crash. Plastic fenders are far more durable. If the adjustable stays are causing you problems, you might just want to glue them once you have them adjusted. Or try to rig some better hardware on them. You also want to make sure you're not needlessly flexing the fender somewhere, you might need spacers at the chainstay bridge for example.
Aluminum fenders are for rando events, enactment and restoration only. They are not safe if abused, and not durable for every day use.
Lightweight stainless steel fenders are not much better. If you want something heavy duty, real steel fenders (like the kind you see on cruisers and 3 speeds) or plastic.
>>930928
Presumably you've cleaned and lubed your cables, then "indexed"/adjusted appropriately.
If it still doesn't change down right, the problem could be the front derailleur itself, or your cables (and cable-housing) are fugged.
If your bike was set up correctly, the positioning of the front derailleur should be fine. Check for bent cage, lubricate pivots, and make sure spring hasn't died.
If your cables are dead, get them (and the housing) replaced.
Here is a useful website for you: http://sheldonbrown.com/bicycleGears.html
>>930942
thanks mate, the cage isn't bend i can smoothly shift up but i can't shift down, just one click and its like i am pushing the lever into nothing, no resistance but a tiny click, after that i can click and shift down rather unsmoothly. my cable is pretty fucked where it was clamped too, its even broken a bit, thats why i didn't already removed it to see if its properly engaged inside the brifter because i got no replacement cable for now, i need to head to a shop
>>930938
>mfw i've been riding bikes with aluminum and stainless fenders every day for years
>mfw i never knew about the imminent implosion
oh no i am going to be sucked into a black hole caused by the sudden collapse of my fenders
hel;p
/n/ reccomended tyre for my carbon roadie?
Durano?
4000S II?
Other?
>>930961
Rubino Pro
They're about $30 on Amazon
>>930961
4000sII without a doubt. Only Schwalbe One comes close in rolling resistance tests.
>>930964
Some of the new vitoria ones are in the same league, but have tragic puncture resistance to get that far.
>>930966
That's the other half of the 4000s success story; class leading puncture protection and rolling resistance combined. If there could be a third half it would be the wet grip.
>>930876
Thanks man, ordered the adapter from Nashbar.
I know stems come in all angles and shit tho, should I actually go to my LBS and see what that have?
My gears are making a tiny bit of racket, I assume they're slightly out of adjustment, but it isn't effecting my shifting (they aren't randomly shifting up or down).
Are they safe to ride on or am I going to prematurely wear something out by not having them perfectly adjusted?
Also, my rear wheel seems to be awkward to get it aligned properly when removing it and replacing it, am I doing something wrong? I'm try to get it firmly seated, but there's still a bit of (yaw?) movement, a couple of degrees but it's noticeable, so I have to push it in the right direction as I close the drop out lever thing.
>>931011
Adjust your gears. You can do it while riding. Just turn the barrel adjuster on your down tube a quarter of a turn at a time until the noise is gone.
Always have the bike resting on the wheels when closing the quick release ("drop out lever thing"). Rubber side down is the first rule of bikes.
The quick release should start resisting when the lever is pointing straight out, 90° from its locked position.
>>930966
I'm not a fan of Vittoria. Some of their tires are good, others are awful. It even varies from size to size within the same tier because of different molds used.
>>930951
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fenders.html#safety
Enjoy your death shitty shitposter
Is my bike decent?
Got it for rough road and hardpack dirt trails to get back in shape
>>931020
>get a tree stuck in your spokes
>die
>blame the fenders
and it's funny how nobody is clutching their pearls about shit getting caught between spokes and rack and causing you to die the death
>>931045
Not to say that I'm terribly worried about my front fender catapulting me anywhere, but a locked rear wheel does not throw you into the ground, face first. A locked up front wheel somersaults you on firm ground.
>>931021
Take off the reflectors, get some flat pedals w/ pins, get a dropper post.
>>930961
Michelin Pro4s are pretty good.
What tools do I need to do a really good job of adjusting my rear derailleur?
Hard mode: I can't turn my bike upside down because hydraulics.
Is just a work stand on its own sufficient? Any gauges or such things exist to make the process easier? I know you guys like to say you don't need XYZ tool and it's for freds, but from the limited amount of bike maintenance I've done, I've found that buying the actual tool instead of improvising saves a trip to the bike shop, most of the time.
Hey guys, anyone here have experience going to a bike co-op?
There's one in my area but I'm kinda intimidated cos I know almost nothing about fixing/building bikes and also the fact that it'd probably a smallish group that all know each other but that's more my social anxiety speaking
http://bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=1995&brand=Diamondback&model=Prevail+TT
Considering taking the plunge into the world of titanium.
I can't find any goddamn information about this Diamondback Ti bike on google. Is it any good? I did some research on Ti frames in general and supposedly 6al-4v is superior to 3al-2.5v... This bike is 20 years old and is made from the lower quality stuff.
Could I get an estimate on the value of the frame by itself? If I bit I'd probably get a carbon 1" fork from Nashbar and a modern groupset. Any information in general about Ti bikes would be appreciated.
Pic related, TT/HT weld on the bike I'm considering.
I've been biking to work lately because the weather's been nice and it's only ~5 Km. Unfortunately, some shit-sucking cock goblin cut the lock and made off with my bike today. On the off chance it shows up on CL, what would be the preferred method of caving his face in?
More seriously, I filed a police report, am having the surveillance footage pulled tomorrow, watching CL, and putting in calls to as many bike stores and pawn shops as I can in the morning. Is there anything else you guys would recommend doing?
>>931233
Some chick in Santa Barbara found her stolen bike on craigslist, she was real friendly over Email and met up with the guy.
Asked to take a test ride, and rode home on her bike.
>>931234
That's kind of the plan, assuming I can keep my temper in check. And assuming I find it, of course. I'm pissed though, I don't think I'm above breaking his nose if I get the chance.
>>931236
Assuming you have friends(I don't) have them waiting in a car nearby in case he tries to run. Have your lads pull him into a convenient alley and cut his dick off.
>>931137
If there is no air in the hydraulic system there is no problem with turnning it upside down. There shouldn't be any air in the system, even in the reservoar. If there is you can work that air back out of the system by pumping the handle when the bike is righted again, but you should probably also fix the leak and bleed the system in the near future before the reservoar has so much air in it works its way into the system while you're riding.
tldr: There is no reason you can't turn a functioning hydraulic system upside down.
The only two tools you can use to adjust a read derailleur is a Phillips head to adjust the limit (shouldn't be needed after first installation) and your fingers to turn the barrel adjusters.
If it's not an initial install but just needs adjustment you can turn the barrels while riding. Unscrew them a quarter of a turn at the time until the noise stops, or half a turn if the problem is so bad you have ghost shifts.
If the problem is a bent derailleur hanger or cage it will be impossible to adjust it properly. You will need either a new hanger, a new derailleur, or one of the tools pictured. They're about 50€, and are used to straighten the existing hanger, using the wheel rim for reference. At this point you might choose to take it to a shop to do the troubleshooting and apply the fix.
>>931237
The guy I bought the bike off of, a friend of my mom's, is actually out of work right now and thus free almost any time. I called him to verify the value to put on the police report, and he volunteered to come with me if I can find the guy. I hope we manage enough self control to not seriously injure him, as it won't likely be too difficult to track it back to me via phone/email.
>>931226
The guys and gals there will be happy to teach you. That's what the groups are for. You're not afraid to ask on this board and the shop works on the exact same principles.
>>931239
If you do manage to arrange a meeting with the thief/fence I would suggest you have the police back you up instead if they can be bothered to put the doughnuts down for a few minutes.
Doing him over could put you in trouble as you are already aware, but just taking the bike back will also mean the ass hat will have lost less than a few minutes of "work" and nothing more.
Bike theft is not a one-off crime. It's a sucky carreer choice for junkies and losers.
>>931242
Yeah, calling the donut munchers is probably a good idea. I'm pissed off at myself too. As I was locking it up this morning, I was even thinking to myself that I needed to get a better lock soon.
Newb here, any opinions on the Bike Repair app on android/iphone? Just downloaded a free version and the wheel section is pretty in-depth, and the entire app is only £2.49.
Just wondering if anyone has any experience with it, I think it might be the first app I actually purchase (rest have all been free).
>>931226
I felt the same way going to my local co-op and at first it was awkward but the key is don't be a dick or a stranger. Learn their names, join their local rides, bike people in general are a pretty friendly bunch. Only Freds and fixie fags will be elitist cunts, the former who'll look at your bike before they acknowledge you, the latter who'll look at what you're wearing. Go make some friends you dork.
Reccommended 28mm inner tubes?
>>931257
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/schwalbe-butyl-tube/
>>931257
Michelin Aircomp Latex if you can be bothered to pump.
Continental Race Light if you can't. Supersonic if you suffer self hate.
