I wanna play Jap consoles in Europe, but our power standards are different. Any Europeans out there who have succeeded?
>>2834156
Uh, any stepdown converter is good as long as the consoles power rating does not exceed the converters.
And for some older consoles that use DC power, you can just use the power brick of a EU unit. I use the same PAL Megadrive plug for all my Japanese megadrives and US Genesis consoles.
However, you have to make sure that the DC converters output matches that of the consoles. Megadrive 1 and 2 have inverted polarity plugs, for example.
>>2834178
Listen to this man.
Just look up your console's voltage and amps and buy a power adapter that supplies just that.
Out Voltage is important, get one that matches the original adapter.
Out Amperage should be at least the same as the original, it doesn't hurt to go bigger.
>>2834207
Got any links for a PS1 compatible one?
Thanks, guys!
Just go on eBay and look for step down converter ,will cost about £6 and will power something like a ps1 easily
Get a step down converter bruh. I brought a NTSC Xbox 360 for my cousin in Iran.
They use 220v so I went and bought her a step down converter and shit works great.
I highly recommend you get yourself a converter. You could buy appliances and other NA/JP shit as well.
>>2834207
Too many amps can be bad if the psu is unregulated. An unregulated (it's on the label in the us) psu will have a higher than listed voltage if your amperage doesn't closely match the limit of the psu
For this reason they're not what yourld commonly find when looking for power bricks but they are out there.
>>2834236
Huh. You learn something new every day.
>>2834224
I always forget, should I look for a ~240 to ~110 or is it the other way around?
>>2834236
>For this reason they're not what yourld commonly find when looking for power bricks but they are out there.
WHAT IS not what you would commonly find when looking for power bricks?
also, you meant that a regulated ACDC converter will sense that the device isnt using the 3Amps and tone down to 1Amp?
and for a unmarked brick, we should stay in what, 30% 10% over Amps max?
and finally, an unregulated powerbrick will throw those surplus amps that will just overheat the console on long usage intervals?
Sort of the reverse, actually. I'm an European who grew up in Yellowmanland. We brought game consoles with us to SG when we moved there. They got hooked up, but I was too young to really know or care how it worked. I know that there was a multiregion VCR involved and a power converter of some sort, but beyond that, I can't say much else.
Mostly, I played on my Turbo Express and Game Gear during my time there rather than TV-based consoles.
I don't think I helped you at all, but maybe? Did I? No? You can tell me to fuck off if I didn't.
>>2834412
>>2834412
Sorry, getting used to new mobile keyboard. If you go into radioshack or Walmart, the power brick you pick up probably isn't unregulated for this reason, consumers would blow their stuff up and be unhappy. You're only likely to find an unregulated brick packaged with its intended product, so the load it's designed for will cause the proper draw to not mess it up.
If you buy a regulated power supply, they mean voltage regulated. Amps used are determined by the load. It's not that the unregulated tones it down, the proper voltage and the load on the circuit of the console by its very nature determines how many amps are used. Some designs of power supplies do not strictly regulate voltage, so if the amperage is significantly low, the voltage will go high, which will increase overall current and can cause heat death or other problems.
https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/103
http://www.dansdata.com/danletters199.htm
An unloaded linear power supply gives out root2*basevoltage extra volts so a 6v psu would actually be 8.4v. I'd pull .5 v out of my ass as the safe margin of error that you don't want to deviate from nominal voltage by.
So 2.4v increase when .5 is the max. .5/2.4 -> 22%
I'd guess staying within 22% of rated amperage, for a 6v psu. For higher voltage PSUs the swing will be higher, so you'll have to get closer..l.
-----
The actual reasonable solution is to buy switchmode (regulation implied) or regulated linear PSUs. If you need to use an unregulated PSU, then use one of the correct size. This is mostly a warning that you can't go and grab whatever PSU out of the goodwill shit bin and say 'voltage + amps A-OK'
>>2834562
Also, this is a subtopic about linear/step mode power supplies, not 240v->120/110v transformers. I haven't heard of any issues with those. (Unless you're trying to run an OLD pal TV that doesn't have a timer and is expecting 50hz from the wall and you're giving it 60hz or vice versa. Some games/RF adapters may be affected too but that's also a case by case basis, like the C64 used the wall clock for its rf modulator and the Apple 2 used it for BASIC's RNG.
can anyone help me with running a SFC in Australia? I heard that I could use a local mega drive power supply, does anyone have any experience with this?
You know that Jap consoles won't work on Yuropoor TVs.
>>2834847
they do work
>>2834847
They do.
I bought a Super Famicom and I live in Finland. Bought something like this and never needed anything ever again. It can swap polarities and comes with a dozen of plugs.
>>2834156
>be american
>that plug
>them outlets
>mfw
>>2834156
>not just using a generic 9VDC AC adapter with swappable tips to power your japanese consoles
>>2836573
Explain pls.
>>2834178
>>2834207
yeah, a euro mega drive 1 psu can be used for: jap MD1, super famicom, famicom and some other stuff I don't have. Pretty sure a euro SMS psu will do the same job too
>>2834847
you would have to have a pretty old crt for it to not be an option (35-40 years old rf only)
>>2834847
I have a NTSC NES and our TV do work with that.
>>2834847
dumb american
>>2841248
>PS1
psone
Yes it does.
>>2841248
it does
