Mods, repairs, and technical questions go here. What are you working on?
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Main_Page
The majority of problems with cartridge-based consoles can be remedied by cleaning the cartridge slot and the contacts of your games even if they are not visibly dirty. Consult the Game and Console Cleaning guide here:
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Game_and_Console_Cleaning
If you have any questions about a non-/vr/ console, try posting on the forum ( http://forums.gametechwiki.com/ ) and letting us know here that you did.
Does anyone have experience fixing NeoGeo MVS controls?
My second player A button (and to a lesser extent B and C) "works" but it requires a really hard button press. I assume the connection is good, and maybe its just the contacts are worn down or something, since it does register the button press on occasion.
I figure if I'm going to do one, I may as well do the rest. I'll probably end up posting on the neogeo forums at some point regardless.
Idk where to ask this but how good are VGA to Component converters because most 480p signals look like shit on my LCD unlike VGA signals like on my DC which look great
How do I properly bend this pin back in place?
>>2691116
Push it up with a small flat head screwdriver.
>>2688308
I don't own one but are they are just rubber dome type buttons?
If so then clean the board contacts with rubbing alcohol or contact cleaner and wash the rubber parts in the sink.
>>2691275
>>2691275
I took a look I think the microswitches are just wearing out.
They look like : http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/D413-R1AA/CH987-ND/4580798
I swapped my D button switches with my A button switches since obviously the D button ones wear out less and a lot of games only use the A button. None of my games even use the D button.
I'm looking for alternative switches. Those ones seem a bit expensive and they have a life of ~50k clicks, and for a game like Metal Slug thats probably going to wear out real fast.
Pic isn't mine, but thats what the underside of the controls look like.
If I can find some good switches I'll probably just replace them all (including the switches for the sticks), one of them has been replaced already by the previous owner.
Anyone know a good drop in replacement for a 7805C?
Preferably one that's free standing and doesn't need a heat sink.
Not a retro question but you guys might be able to answer it.
I have a PSP 1000 that randomly turns off. Wondering if this might be the power switch.
>>2692540
The OP tells you what to do if you have a non-retro question
>>2692601
Yeah, I rather not register.
>>2692972
Yeah, I rather toss it out then.
>>2688179
my saturn was skipping on disc reading, I opened it up lubed up the gears, cleaned the laser, and unplugging and plugged the cd drive back in. It worked but, I want to know how can I prevent this from happening again other than those precautions.
>>2692961
>and besides, that form is dead
Probably because people like you.
>>2693019
>Having to register for a no name form that no one is on to ask a question that will never get answered.
Have you even looked on there? Questions but no answers. No fucking thanks.
I'll take it to a more populated form before I register there.
>>2693046
>Have you even looked on there?
Since it came into existence, two people have asked questions in the repair forum, and I don't have an answer to either.
Two of the countless people who came to this thread to ask about things that aren't /vr/ related, most of them, like you, too lazy to even try.
Even if we gave you a fix, by your attitude you would have thrown it away anyway, because it would be too much effort.
>>2693124
Naw, I fix retro shit all the time. I don't want to waste time buying the wrong part is what the thing is.
But thanks for that :^)
>>2693124
>and I don't have an answer to either.
For the GC related one, I found someone on assembler that sells them; Still haven't gotten around to ordering it though.
>>2693151
the best for the gamecube is the wasp add the megadrive and you are done, also like 2 weeks ago someone on the gamecube forims discovered autoboot for the wasp, dont go for the xeno, wasp+ megadrive cover everything perfect compatibility for the wasp, audistreaming for the megadrive so you have a 100% compatible cube zero lag.
>>2693223
>why would anyone will register in a dead forum?
The flaw in your argument is that the forum isn't dead, it's never been born. Because people have refused to post there because "registering iz 2 hard waa" there are few posts, which deters people willing to solve issues and people with issues.
>>2693218
Well, would you be able to drop a link or two so I can read up on it.
One of the big reasons Xeno interested me was it was a cheap route to Swiss, which is the big thing I'm interested in.
>>2693290
>>2693223
forgot to add atari age
also
sd swiss autoboot zero lag
http://www.gc-forever.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=3046
look here megadrive v5 + wasp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7mUmyn70-lg
dont go for v6 it sucks balls to install
also im waiting for this the hd gamecube cable solution
http://www.gc-forever.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=2500
>>2691472
You mean a pump or you're prejudiced against heat sinks?
>>2694942
More like I want to do a mod but one is in the way.
>>2691472
If you need a voltage regulator but a linear one is producing too much heat, use a similar switching regulator. The 7805SR-C should be a more or less exact replacement for the 7805C, 7.5+ volts in, 5 volts out.
Just asking, but what are you doing?
>>2695263
Top loading NES mod.
>>2695265
Heatsinks, always gotta be startin shit. Best of luck with that mod.
I'm torn on what to do with my SNES. It's an RGB-02, so it has the 2nd version of the video encoder chip in it. I want to install an S-Video plug into it, since the 2nd version doesn't support native component right off the chip. I'm just not sure if I should drill a new hole for it, or pull the RF module and use that hole or maybe widen it up a little.
Any thoughts, opinions?
>>2695285
Honestly, pull the RF. You're never going to use it.
And drilling holes though old plastic is a NIGHTMARE or can be.
![868401a3dc[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/ejtcrFM.jpg "868401a3dc[1].jpg")
Do you guys know if there's a way I can fix this?
>>2695304
Nope.
>>2695307
Sad. Some dumb fuck mailed it to me in a couple of bubble mailers.
>>2695318
I know how that is. I ordered a copy of Mario Maker and it came in one. I was pretty pissed too.
Try and get your money back.
>>2695324
I already messaged the seller about it, waiting to hear back. I'm mad now because I know for a fact it was pristine before he sent it.
Ok I got one for you guys.
I found a Turbografix 16 controller in a thrift store parking lot the other day, it's cord was cut, but was otherwise perfect shape. Anyhow I grabbed it, since I have a PC engine figuring it'd re-wire it with a Mini DIN connector and use it as a spare controller.
Only problem is the only PC engine controller I have is a Hori Commander, and the board is different so I have no idea what goes where, and Google has failed me.
Anyhow I've mapped out the colors in a spare 8-Pin DIN cable and crimped JST ends on it, but any help in figuring out which wire goes where would be hugely appreciated.
So the end of my Dreamcast controller has been coming out for a while. I've tried to avoid pulling it out, but I'm looking to get some lightguns and play House of the Dead and switching back and forth is obviously going to put some wear on it.
I don't know what to call the parts, so the black bit is coming out of the white bit and can come out far enough to start turning around.
I could just glue it back in but I figure that'll make fixing the wires later a nightmare, and I figure those wores are having a lot of unintended strain put on them every time I unplug the controller since they're the only thing holding it together.
Any advice?
>>2695390
I think dream cast cords are detachable inside.
If you can find a fucked controller but okay cord, you can switch them out.
>>2695358
Figured it out last nigh by reading what each leg of the 74HC157 IC does, and what each pin on the Mini DIN connector does, then following the traces on the PCB.
If anyone is curious, pic is attached (disregard colors, cable is likely gonna be different). Pin 1~8 on the DIN and JST connector should match up, with 9 going to shield.
>>2695325
If he blames the post office you open a case on ebay (assuming ebay).
>Item not as described
Cite that packaging was inadequate.
I switched the case on a Gameboy Color, everything worked great. Noticed some dust, opened it back up, got rid of the dust, now the thing wont power on. It'll barely light up, then die, like the batteries are dead but I've tried new batteries. Any ideas?
Yo I posted on the forum with a GBA question, would love some help if anyone has any idea.
>>2695325
What you've described is not even remotely approaching what we would consider adequate packaging, so you certainly have a case for a dispute.
A big bubble bag would have been moved as general freight which includes boxes and gets sorted in cages as it moves around the network. Your console would have been subjected to a hundred or more pounds of freight piled on it at any given time, which is going to be an issue if your packaging is inadequate.
Inadequate packaging also voids any insurance, but given how the seller cheaped out on shipping material I highly doubt he opted for any insurance.
>>2697224
He'll probably claim he has sent tons of things the same way and never had a problem. Whether that's true or not, being a lucky son of a bitch on other parcels doesn't make it okay to ship something like a console in a bubble bag.
>>2698592
I agree, even a box is not adequate.
>SNES and SNES advantage
>Literally just thrown in a box
>damaged 2 of the switches on the joystick and busted the snes shell to oblivion
He refunded me 50%, but I was still pretty pissed.
>>2698441
On the side, let's say that I had an unspecified portable game system and a pair of buttons were completely unresponsive while the rest of them worked fine, what sort of troubleshooting might I do in general?
>>2698827
Open it up, check the contacts, they may be worn out or dirty.
The bigger issue is if the actual connections are bad, but its more then likely just the contacts.
>>2698592
>>2698820
How would you guys suggest mailing anything? If it was just the console in a bubble mailer, it shouldn't of gotten harmed. A console should have a box though, just because it needs the space to fit the other stuff in, then in a box it needs padding so stuff doesn't hit each other but a cardboard box isn't going to keep it from getting damaged anymore than a bubble mailer would.
How would that spot be made while in post?
>>2698851
They didn't look dirty, but I followed a guide on cleaning remote buttons (eraser on the contacts, iospropyl alcohol on the actual buttons) and it works fine now. Thanks!
So this is slightly off topic
I'm finally going back to school.
I'm a repairman by trade but have very little electronic knowledge, what sort of program/classes should I take to gain knowledge that would be useful in repairing my old game shit and CRTs?
I accidentally dropped my copy of Demon's Souls (I know, not retro. Can still apply to retro games) and a little piece got chipped off on the edge. It still plays, but I don't know if this will affect the game in any way. Anyone knowledgeable in this type of situation?
>>2699380
Saying "I know, not retro" does not make it magically okay to post not retro
>>2699396
You get the idea. It's a situation that can be applied to retro game discs. If I asked /v/, the thread would die really quickly with no helpful replies.
>>2699408
So, should I just find a new copy?
>>2699414
It's for the best. A shattered disc is a nightmare to clean out of any drive.
does it seems like everybody push's you to buy something "NEW" instead of actually popping it open and looking inside it?
>>2698854
Box is always the best option but it depends what it is.
My procedure is what one would call excessive, but I get a lot of compliments in my ebay feedback about being well packaged so...
>wrap the individual items like a present in paper towel
>bag items in a ziplock bag (I've had one package ruined because it was left out in the rain, and it helps to keep things dry on the inside)
>push out all the air and zip it, then roll the end and tape it closed
>depending on value/number of components I may put them in another ziplock bag I usually individually bag things
>If its just a game, like an NES SNES or PS1/PS2 game I usually wrap in thin bubble wrap and a bubble mailer.
>Ifr its something like a handheld, or an expensive game, I take the bagged item, put in either more paper towel, brown paper or bubble wrap (depends what i have on hand)
I've also been known to reinforce edges or boxes with extra cardboard and duct tape.
Then again I'm a small time seller. It doesn't surprise me that big time sellers don't put in any effort.
Throwing in a dryer sheet can also be a nice touch, because it will suck up any of the bubble wrap or brown papers smell. A lot of the time the "cigarette" smell people claim is just from bubble wrap/shipping materials.
>>2699710
That is excessive. What to do figure your shipping materials come to?
>>2700000
Not too much.
I keep all boxes and bubble mailers that I get from ordering stuff online and use those. Same with bubble wrap and brown paper.
I usually just have ziplock bags and paper towel at home just because its a standard thing to have in the house. Packing and duct tape I bought a case of so theres a shitload of it in there, but I use it for other stuff.
>>2699380
I'd just get it on PSN or something
>>2700158
Takes up too much space for the price. I knew I should've jumped on it when it was $5 a while ago.
>>2699710
I almost exclusively use poly bubble mailers. For cartridge games I'll wrap them in more bubble wrap, but don't think it makes any difference just do it for the buyers.
I really don't think it matters how you ship stuff, unless you send an unsealed box. If it's going to get damaged cardboard isn't going to protect it any better than plastic. Am I wrong in my thinking?
>>2698854
>>2701854
A box actually makes a huge difference in a parcel's survivability. The edges and corners of a cardboard box have a lot more structural strength than you'd think.
The key is to ensure the box is packed tight. You want all of the space in the box taken up by your items and packing material, with as little empty space in there as possible. Empty space will cave in effortlessly and compromise the box, allowing it to crush. Packing material will resist and spread out the load to protect your contents.
Your shipment has to share space on a plane or truck, and that means it could end up at the bottom of a heavy pile of freight. That's just how it is. Nobody runs over or impales shit with a forklift on a regular basis. Any carrier will have procedures and policies in place at to limit how much a parcel has to endure, so that nothing properly packaged should be in danger.
>>2704523
Check the speaker and wires attached to it.
>>2704753
The speaker seems dirty, wires look fine to my untrained eye but I don't know what to look for.
>>2705301
Run it with the case open and manipulate the wires, if the sound cuts out, they're the problem.
>>2706607
I'll check this tomorrow, thanks anon
I have a Genesis 1 with some interesting issues. It only powers on if you hold the cable to the left and the power adapter makes a rather loud hum after being plugged in for a few minutes. It's an official 1602-1 power adapter.
I recently bought famicom edition of Castlevania 3 and was wondering what be the most affordable option since I already got the famicom adapter in order to get the full power of the VRC6 and other expansion audio just modding the console or modding the adapter in order to get the full sound?
So in the process of trying to replace the dead motor in my PS1, I managed to fuck up what I thought would be the easy part by stripping both the screws that hold the motor in place (pic related). Any ideas on how I can either unfasten them now or just remove their heads?
Very limited tools on-hand, but if it requires some things I don't have I can always buy those later on.
Also feel free to shit on me for stripping them, I deserve it.
>>2707349
Sounds like a broken (and shorted) barrel plug, console side. Stop doing that.
>>2708839
So would I replace it with something like this?
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/dcj-1/2.1mm-dc-power-jack/1.html
I need some advice
My snes is acting weird. Some games like Illusion of Gaia (And terranigma, repro and not repro connected with a PAR3) completely refuse to work on it, but work perfectly on a friends Snes
Not only this, but recently, always at the very same specific part in games, the screen the scrolls vertically. EX: At the company logo in Super Puyo Puyo, at the mist before the Giant Koopa boss in Yoshi's Island. Always at specific parts, never randomly.
I've been told it might be my pin connector, is that true? Anything else needed to repair it?
Thanks
>>2709462
Forgot to add more details. Some other games works, but doesn't. Seiken Densetsu boots, but absolutely refuses to go in the file select menu, it just goes back to the booting screen, intro screen and title screen.
Other games like Radical Rex, the game start, then the screen scrolls vertically forever but no characters appears at all, the game seems to be locked there, I hope my snes isn't completely fucked
>>2709468
*Seiken Densetsu 3 ... but I don't think it really matters
>>2708825
in that sort of situation i've used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to make a straight notch through the head of the screws so i could use a flatblade screwdriver on them. alternatively, you *might* be able to grab them with a vice grip and break them loose. looking at your pic, though, they dont seem that badly stripped. you should be able to still get them with a proper sized phillips, which if you had used in the first place you could have avoided this whole mess all together.
I've got a green game boy pocket that for the most part, still works great. However, occasionally when pressing down on the d-pad, the game will react like I pressed the start button instead. Also, it comes in spurts, like for weeks at a time it won't happen, and then it will start happening so frequently that I'll have to stop playing. Anyone have any idea what is happening here? Is it some sort of weird intermittent short-circuit or something?
![gameboy1[1].gif](https://i.imgur.com/FM9wPTN.gif "gameboy1[1].gif")
>>2709859
>when pressing down on the d-pad, the game will react like I pressed the start button instead
There's a problem with the key matrix.
It consists of 4 inputs and 2 outputs, one for the d-pad and the other one for the rest.
>Anyone have any idea what is happening here?
Hard to tell, maybe reflowing the solder of the CPU could help in case of dry solder joints or maybe some traces for the key matrix are fucked.
pic related is reverse engineered from the GB classic but still similar in operation, the pinout of the MGB-CPU is different and can be found here:
http://jazz-disassemblies.blogspot.de/2014/02/the-nintedno-gameboy-pockets-cpu-pinout.html
>>2709881
Thanks for the info!
>maybe reflowing the solder of the CPU could help in case of dry solder joints
I don't have the equipment to do a proper re-flow but would putting the whole gameboy in a small cardboard box and heating it up with a hair dryer do the trick? I have a proper heat gun as well but I suspect that would damage the unit. I'd really rather not have to take it apart but if it comes down to that, I can. It can't be harder than replacing a screen in a PSP can it?
>>2709889
>but would putting the whole gameboy in a small cardboard box and heating it up with a hair dryer do the trick?
Nope.
>I have a proper heat gun as well but I suspect that would damage the unit
Yes, this is quite correct but you could also cause damage with the proper equipment.
I think you could use that, just start slowly and on the lowest setting for 15 seconds or so and be careful not to burn your hands after you heated the board up, it's easy to underestimate how much and how long a circuit board can stay hot.
Basically you do that what people on youtube did to fix their xbox 360 with the red ting failure.
But before you start you should visually inspect the CPU and the traces of the buttons with an magnifying glass, maybe you can find something.
>I'd really rather not have to take it apart but if it comes down to that, I can. It can't be harder than replacing a screen in a PSP can it?
I don't know but there are no plastic hooks there, as soon the triwing screws (Y shaped) are out it gets loose.
Better be careful not to loose any parts when it comes apart.
>>2709912
I still need to order a triwing bit but amazon prime has them for cheap. Hopefully I can tackle this project over the weekend. If I remember I'll post results. Thanks again for the help!
>>2708306
Adapter is easier. Guide here:http://callanbrown.com/index.php/castlevania-iii-with-full-famicom-audio
>>2709925
Do yourself a favor and order some liquid flux to put on the areas you are reflowing as well. It will make the solder heat quicker with lower temperatures and flow onto the legs and pads of the cpu. If it's a leg less cpu (BGA), use the brush in the bottle to put it under the chip and use the heat over the chip itself. Big thing is to use small circular motions and not stay in one spot too long. Good luck.
>>2710002
Forgot to mention if there is anything else i should do since i do have a stereo mod on my NES should i mod the adapter pins and get the ENIO Exp board?
>>2710167
>liquid flux
This is also on Prime for cheap. Nice!
>>2710291
Pick up some 97 or 99 percent rubbing alcohol too for cleanup. Do not use the cheap 95 percent or lower solutions as they contain water that is corrosive. Good luck again.
>>2710687
>Do not use the cheap 95 percent or lower solutions as they contain water that is corrosive.
Unless you live underwater in a swamp, the 5% water in the 95% alcohol is going to evaporate hours before corrosion would think about starting.
anyone know how to remove the yellowing of a console? talking about dreamcast/snes mainly.
>>2711051
You can usually even get by with 70%.
However, you should definitely be -trying- to get 99%
>>2711578
Look up Retrobrite.
Its basically Hydrogen Peroxide and Oxyclean
I just got my front loader, presumably pal (it was given to me by an uncle, I have no idea where he got it) nes out from storage upstairs last night, only to find that:
>it has no power cable
>double dragon was sitting in the catrdge slot as if ready to play
Will any power cable that fits the nes and is the right voltage/amps work? Will leaving a game in the nes like that damage it? (I have no case for the game unfortunately) Also wanna know if the red/white av ports on the side are needed for play. I'm assuming that picture would come through the aerial port or sound through the av cables...? but for now I have no way to test it
>>2712105
>it has no power cable
The original is 9Vac, 1.3A and a classic quality transformer with fuse.
>Will any power cable that fits the nes and is the right voltage/amps work?
You can simply take any other power supply with the right barrel plug (2.5x5.5mm) which either outputs 9-12V AC or DC and 1-1.5A, polarity doesn't matter here.
You should be able to buy such a power supply on eBay or whatever you like.
Usually there are many intended for LED strips or maybe some laptops but DON'T buy a aftermarket power supply which is 'made' for NES or other retro systems, these suck ass.
>double dragon was sitting in the catrdge slot as if ready to play
Well, the PAL version of that game (if it's the first) is kinda rare IMO.
>Will leaving a game in the nes like that damage it?
For a long time it could but it sure can be fixed if you take your time and be patient, you properly have to bend every pin manually with some safety pin or fine screwdriver.
Aftermarket 72pin connectors are also not recommended as they don't have any gold coating like the original one and can fuck up your games.
To ensure that cartridge based consoles work reliably, you should clean every game you get and simply don't insert games that aren't clean. Simply keep the console and cartridges as clean as possible then they work perfect every time, like mine.
My NES,SNES,N64 and GB always work on the first try, if not then on the second or third attempt and that happens very rarely.
>Also wanna know if the red/white av ports on the side are needed for play.
Yes, simply plug some good RCA cables into the video (yellow) and audio (red) jacks on the side to the AV input of your TV and you should be ready to go.
>I'm assuming that picture would come through the aerial port
RF jack is white and on the back, you don't need this shit and better follow the above advice.
Gonna buy this for very cheap.
Any good way to remove the yellow tint?
>>2715498
Four years sounds alright.
>>2715498
Because it's a natural reaction in the plastic, and will also compromise its strength, so throwing paint on it and ignoring it will only detriment you.
>>2717336
fucking phone, ignored all I wrote.
So, I got a PAL Mario land (I live on NTSC land) and no matter how many times I try, I always get pic related when I try to play it.
Already tried on a GB, a GBC, a GBA SP and a Super GB, all with the same results.
Already opened it up to see if there's any issue with it but I couldn't find anything, I also checked continuity and all pins seem to be properly connected to their corresponding legs.
Afaik, the GB is not region locked, so what could cause this problem?
>>2717337
have you tired cleaning the pins? Glitched nintendo logo is sign that gb cant read the cart.
And yes, GB is not region locked.
>>2717347
yeah, I cleaned them shiny, it should be working but the thing that bugs me is that it is always glitched in that exact way, on all gb's I've tried. I hasn't worked not even once since I got it, always that exact glitched Nintendo logo.
>>2717336
>>2717337
Okay anon.
I just spent some time figuring out how exactly this:
http://gbdev.gg8.se/wiki/articles/The_Cartridge_Header#0104-0133_-_Nintendo_Logo
was build up and I wanted to know it anyways.
I can tell you that D6 is shorted to power (judging from the nice pic you posted), or in other words it's always 1 and never 0.
That must be pin 28 on the cart edge, pin 32 is ground and pin 1 is power (5V).
Measure if you have a short to power on that pin, if not then inspect the pin of the ROM.
I do have a defective Commodore character ROM, where one data pin is internally shorted to power and the difference between that and yours is that this one is NMOS where Nintendo's ROMs are mostly CMOS.
>>2717461
Made a mistake.
It's D5 and it's cart edge pin is 27.
>>2717461
>>2717468
I checked all pins to 3 and 30, none of them are shorted to neither 1 or 32. (2 and 31 are unused)
This is how they're connected.
So I just bought a game gear and I was wondering what is the DC in used for?
Is it to play it without batteries?
Can I use any 9V DC or only specific ones?
>>2718359
10V
>>2718375
I've read that only in America 10V works, it's also written next to the input 9VDC
![cypress-1[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/WrGmKzT.jpg "cypress-1[1].jpg")
>>2717858
Now this is starting to get weird.
Perhaps the bonding wire (the connection between outside pin and silicon die) got damaged but that doesn't make much sense as this ROM never gets hot nor is it prone to electromigration as the current was always very small (<1mA) in normal circumstances.
You can find this out by measuring these two ESD protection diodes (see pic) which are on every pin, if you don't know how to measure diodes then ask google.
If you can't measure the proper forward voltage of around 700mV then it's open and it would explain why the CPU reads a 1 on that pin because if you turn on a GB with no cartridge then you simply get black block instead of the Nintendo logo as the CPU only reads 0xFF (D0-D7 are 1) on the data bus at address 0x0104-0x0133.
>I checked all pins to 3 and 30
You don't need to do that, only pin 27.
>>2718359
>>2718375
>>2718384
for whatever reason, the PAL region game gears use the earlier, thicker, master system/megadrive model1 style power adapters.
pic related
>>2718359
I found 6 batteries and turned the thing on,
now, the screen can only be seen at a weird angle, but that's alright,
I'm worried though because there is no sound, what could it be?
>>2718460
>I checked all pins to 3 and 30
>You don't need to do that, only pin 27.
whoops, I meant from 3 to 30, just to make sure none of them were shorted to 1.
I'm gonna check those protection diodes.
Here's a tough one: this original PS1 dualshock was in perfect, mint condition, until I used this motherfucker chinese adapter to play on my PC with it. After using it a couple of times, now the X button is dead. It doesnt work even in the console.
Is there anything I can do, not being an expert electrician? I assume some connector got burned out or something, but it somehow only affects that one button. Any ideas?
Pic related, its my controller and the fucking adapter I wish I never bought
>>2718665
Replace the capacitors.
>>2719245
Without being able to tell with a multimeter exactly what voltage the adapter is sending to the controller, and without being able to see the controller's PCB to look for damage, no, we really can't help you. If you want to take a multimeter to the adapter or open the controller up and show us the PCB, we might be able to help, otherwise what do you expect us to be able to do?
Could I take a SNES advantage or NES advantage board and convert it to use real arcade components? Seems like an easy way to refurbish my busted button sticks and get superior quality.
Im not at homefor the next few days so I can't look at the boards.
>>2719747
If you want to make a new enclosure for it then it's definitely something you could do.
>>2719747
I got my super advantage and score master this weekend. Stripped them down to clean inside and out.
Hey are rather shallow, so would struggle to fit full size arcade buttons
You could install tactile switches under the buttons in place of rubber domes and wire them to the PCB.
I'm making a shed arcade stick using proper arcade stick and buttons, a Tupperware enclosure and a Chinese SNES controller PCB / cable.
>>2720186
>>2720310
I'd definitely be building a case for it. The shell is smashed on my SNES advantage and it doesn't let me use the turbo switches because its so bashed up.
I would just use a standard SNES/NES controller but I do kinda want the extra features the advantage controllers have, like turbo, auto-fire, etc.
I'll probably end up ordering some buttons and a stick then. I never cared for the squishy feel of those advantage sticks.
>>2719637
Well, your post alone is telling me where to start checking what's the problem. Thanks.
>>2688179
I just repaired my N64 PSU (230V).
I guess my hacked together MultiAV plug shorted 12V (added via a diode 1N4007) to ground and the "voltage monitor" failed to sense the drop fast enough and didn't shut it off and this caused that the fuse for 12V tripped.
Careful inspection revealed that this PSU has at least 5 protection components:
-Picofuses with 125V 5A for 3.3V (ICP2) and 2.5A (but a 2A was installed instead) for 12V (ICP1), located near the silver heatsink
-Thermofuse 125°C on golden looking heatsink for the transistor Q1
-Thermoresistor R2
-Subminiature fuse 250V 1.6A right after the mains connector
Now there's a voltage monitor that will shut off both voltages if one of them is outside the correct range, if that happened then it needs to 'cool off' by disconnecting the PSU from mains for around 15 minutes.
Now the lack of 12V always causes it to shut off 3.3V, but it still allowed it to rise as I could see that the LED on the N64 flashed if I plugged it in.
Now that I got it running, I measured the voltages and with 3.2V; 10.5V they were little lower than they should be.
I thought that the 470ohm trimmer R33 was for output voltage adjustment and I was right, it increases or decreases both of them.
So it's very important that 3.3V is correct as it powers most important stuff directly, 12V isn't critical as it only goes to a 78M05 (5V for video/audio ICs), cartridge slot (only used by very special cartridges like the Wide-boy64) and the expansion port on the bottom.
Now what's quite weird is that the voltages increase a little bit if a load is attached (which is the opposite of linear transformers).
That's why it should be adjusted to 3.1-3.2V first with no load attached and then to around 3.35V with a load of around 1.7A on it along with a load of 100mA on the 12V rail or you could just stuff the bare PSU into the N64 and adjust it in there like I did.
>>2720848
I salvaged a small 2A SMD fuse from some old PCB from a HDD.
>>2720852
And this is a quite practical way to accidentally commit suicide, if a certain one lacks the experience.
I attached the probes before connecting to mains.
>>2720863
>this is a quite practical way to accidentally commit suicide
Please, if you're old enough to understand repairs like this, wall current isn't going to kill you.
>>2720871
I know, I couldn't think of something funny right now.
Can anyone tell me why my Neo Geo CD's laser is fine, yet the drive motor won't spin the disc, even though the motor spins when a 9 volt battery is applied to its power terminals?
>>2719747
You can quite easily add arcade buttons to the PCB but the actual housing might not accommodate them.
What's best cable to use for NON-VGA Dreamcast games?
>>2722575
Have RGB capable TV/Monitor? RGB SCART
Don't have RGB capable TV/Monitor? S-Video
Dreamcast has a quite nice quality S-Video signal in my experience.
>>2722635
I also forgot to mention, there are a few games that don't work with RGB(without editting the disc image) either, so keeping an S-Video cable handy isn't a bad idea either way
>>2721580
Im not super experienced with circuitry.
Theres nothing really special required about swapping non-microswitched buttons for microswitched ones right?
I'm going to be lubricating my DC's wormgear tomorrow. Should I use some on the plastic gears as well?
>>2723117
It shouldn't be too difficult but the snes super advantage has very low clearance and the holes are small so arcade buttons would likely not fit.
Do you mean to replace the rubber membrane things with tactile buttons? That should work without too much effort.
>>2722953
Or does this depend on the game?
>>2723169
Sure, use white lithium grease.
I have no experience with modding. I've been considering getting a Saturn, and I was wondering - how high is the mess-up potential in modifying a 50hz console to run at 60hz? My only alternative's buying a Japanese console and hoping the power converter doesn't fuck it up.
Not exactly retro, but:
My Micro has had marks on the screen that I assumed were water damage, until I took the faceplate off and took a closer look.
It's something dried on the surface of the screen, so it's something I could clean.
My question is, what's the best way to do so without damaging the screen? I'm concerned a dry Q-tip might scratch it and I don't want to apply water or alcohol without being sure of it.
Also I'm aware the rest of it needs cleaning, that's beside the point.
I want to patch my PAL DC games to VGA through a hex editor, do I have to use 0799A10 or does PAL need 0019A10?
my retron 3(laugh) screen scrolls all the time. I can sort of fix it by having the video cable just barley connected but it's not perfect?
>>2724440
Solution: don't buy hyperkin products anymore.
>>2724450
so what would you suggest me buy?
>>2724467
Original hardware, or just an HDMI cable and a PC controller. The Retron is just a bizarre, poorly built halfway point.
I'm experiencing a weird issue with a snes controller I got at a yard sale. It works perfectly fine, as long as you only ever press any button one at a time. If you press two inputs at once, the game behaves as though there is no input at all. IE in Megaman X I cannot move to the left while jumping, and in LoZ I cannot walk diagonally. What could be causing this? I scrubbed the pads--no dice.
>>2724161
The dollar store has a screen cleaning kit with a microfiber cloth. Spray on the cloth first, not directly on the screen.
>>2725962
Did you clean both the rubber pads and the contacts on the board?
>>2726052
Noted, thanks.
I suppose I should have mentioned for those unfamiliar with the Micro that when the faceplate is taken off as in pic, the LCD is exposed, hence my trepidation.
>>2726057
Well I did my best on the board too, but after swapping parts between two broken controllers I am starting to think I didn't clean it hard enough.
So My Saturn suddenly stopped working today. The disc drive just won't spin at all.
It was working fine just yesterday. I didn't move it around or anything.
I opened the Saturn once to wrap the disc tray switch-thing with tape so that it would let me open the lid while spinning the disc to perform disc swap (I only did disc swap once, to install pseudosaturn on my AR4 cart).
When I turn the Saturn on, the lens moves, but that's all it does. Discs won't spin.
>>2709475
Phillips head screws are terrible, even with the right size driver you can still strip the screws due to excessive force required on some of them. My headphones for example only had 1 out of 6 phillips head screws removable without them being dremel'd into flatheads.
>>2727123
Driving it in a small amount before trying to remove it does a lot to prevent that, with the added benefit of an orgasmic click if the screw hasn't been moved in a long time.
>>2727223
Is that so? I'll take that into consideration in the future when dealing with phillips head screws, thanks.
>>2727123
Nope. You're just using the wrong driver.
I bought a lot of Metal Slug 1-4 and X on MVS.
1 2 and 3 work fine (well, one could argue that 2 being on perma-slow down is not "fine") but 4 and X are wrecked.
I've tried in all my slots. 4 doesn't shot half the graphics and then green screens if you make it through character select. X seems to have issues just straight up booting up.
Any ideas if I can even fix them? I cleaned the contacts after testing initially hoping it would fix it, but nothing. Then I took them apart and cleaned the rest of the board and its still doing the same thing.
Anyone have any idea whats wrong with my Robotron 2084 arcade?
I've heard it's a bad rom chip on the video board but I'd like to be sure before I shell out a 100 dollars for a repairman to come fix it.
>>2728936
Need more info. Looks like it's stuck in the startup tests. Knowing exactly where will give you a clue as to what's wrong. What happens before it stops? Do the startup sounds play?
>>2728965
I plug it in and get that. If I leave it on a bit the screen wipes black from one side to the other and then that happens again.
>>2728984
Does that random colored pixel page wipe from left to right before and/or after it wipes to black. Also, sound?
>>2729001
No sound. The screen wipe does happen from left to right.
>>2729001
To be more descriptive the screen turns black and the pink snow actually scrolls from left to right like it's trying to reset but failing.
>>2729014
Any details on what happened before the problem started? Is this machine new to you, has it been in storage for a long time, did it get moved and just stop working?
The pink snow moving is part of the normal startup. It should wipe then "scroll" and maybe repeat if the batteries are dead. But it should display some text in the black screen in between and after.
Probably the most you're going to manage to do on your own is reseat the roms. If you've done this before and and comfortable with it give it a try. There's a good chance it will improve things, if not fix everything. If not there's not much you're going to do on your own.
>>2729148
>Any details on what happened before the problem started? Is this machine new to you, has it been in storage for a long time, did it get moved and just stop working?
I bought it off a comic store owner. I used to play it at his shop. He said that it stopped working after a while and it was getting too expensive to keep fixing. People would come in and really abuse the machine, anime con people. He left it down in storage for a good while before he sold it to me. I loaded it up in the back of a van where it was stable and then stuck it in my living room. I got it on the cheap because I was planning on fixing it.
>>2729158
The bits that usually need fixing are on the panel where people abuse it. The guts are pretty sturdy as evidenced by it lasting as many years as it has. Unfortunately I'm guessing that if someone who had been fixing it for years gave up on it it's probably not a simple fix. Still, it's worth reseating everything to see what happens. It's not going to make it worse and might save you paying someone else to do it, because that's the first thing anyone is going to do.
>>2729158
The best thing you can do is give the board a good, hard look over.
Look for scratches, damaged components, excessive dirtiness, or anything that looks wrong.
Also, if you go look up lukemorse1 on youtube, he has a lot of arcade board repair videos. You'll have to go back a bit for the better ones, but there's good info on what to look for and how to fix it.
I have this Game Boy that I found at a thrift shop for cheap, but the screen has a blank space on the right. It's blank, cutting off the picture, but I noticed vertical lines sometimes show up in that space. Is there a way to fix this?
Sorry for the dim screen in the picture...I took it at a game shop...I don't own any GB games, and I didn't realize that the screen wasn't showing well in the picture until I got home.
>>2729828
Yes and no
The ribbon cable they used to attach the screen to the board was glued on. That glue has dried up and has come loose, thus loosing contact.
What I've done with some success is taking the rubber strip off protecting the cable and heat it with a low temperature with my soldering iron. Rub back and fourth on the problem spot but do NOT leave it in one place for too long, you will burn though the cable.
I do this while the Game boy is turned on with the contrast all the way into the black so I can see the lines. You should see some of them start to flicker. When that happens wait about one second and then push on the cable with a flat head screw driver.
If done right, the glue will turn back into a semi stick stat and re-attach to the screen.
I've done this with some success. Some Game Boys I've fixed this way have stayed fine after, while others showed the problem again the next day.
>>2729835
I did this different:
>You should see some of them start to flicker. When that happens wait about one second and then push on the cable with a flat head screw driver.
I just let it cool off and if it vanished again then I repeated it over and over again.
>while others showed the problem again the next day.
The one I did stayed fine for 4 years because I didn't used double sided tape for the rubber strip. The one I did a few months ago was more worse than anons, half of the lines on the entire screen were missing and it took me 4 hours to solder them back and it still works nice.
Also put double sided tape on the rubber piece and put it back, or else it won't last at all.
>>2729847
Hmm, alright.
Can the cable really take that much heat being applied to it?
>>2731450
chips on the board i mean.
>>2731450
Swap that chip with one next to it to confirm the error code changes and replace the defective chip. Or not if the chip actually just needed to be reseated.
>>2731692
chips seated fine. Does that work? Can I just swap one chip for another? I thought you had to program the chips?
A new soundtrack for Meridian 59 with all of the old ones and some new ones.
https://soundcloud.com/kaybeccab/jala3
Just a test track. Kinda shit.
I made SNES > NES and a NES > SNES controller adapters by rewiring a pair of controller extennsion leads.
Used the pinout guide in pic.
They both work fine for their respective consoles and controllers, so I am positive that I have wired them correctly. All buttons work etc.
Only problems I face are as follows:
Official NES controller doesn't seem to connect properly 9/10 times. No connection seem to be loose and the controller works fine on my NES.
If I use the NES advantage it works 100% fine.
If I use an official NES controller with a replacement chinese connector, that works fine too.
Secondly; using the adapter on Mario Allstars, controls are picked up fine, but as soon Mario 1, 3 or Lost levels are selected, they will load and then reset back to the title screen.
Mario Bros 2 (USA) doesn't have this problem.
If I use a SNES controller to get Mario 1 or 3 ec. into the map screen or a level and then switch to a NES controller with adapter, everything works fine.
I ensured there are no bridged connections. The pins are all seated in the pastic properly etc.
Any ideas Anons?
>>2731787
The problem is a RAM chip (small ones on the CPU board) not a ROM chip (big ones with labels on the ROM board). If you swap the ram chip with one next to it the error message will change if that's the problem. For example from 1,2,5 to 1,3,5. That's the simplest way to confirm if the ram chip is bad of it it's something else (bad socket, trace, etc)
Anyone know tricks for faking a hdmi input?
I have a SCART upscaler, but it only outputs to the TV via HDMI if it sees a HDMI input too.
With no HDMI input, it doesn't activate any output, regardless of SCART input.
Hoping it doesn't completely rely on the external HDMI input passing through to give the TV a scart input.
Confirmed it's not my TV as there is an audio jack output on the upscaler, and that won't even output unless there is a HDMI input.
Got a majority refund based on this as I need to be able to use it when I don't have a HDMI device to input into the upscaler but connect my SNES / N64 etc. to a DVI monitor.
Tried linking the +5V line on the scart (Pin 16) to +5V line on HDMI (Pin 18) but this didn't do anything.
Can you use some of the Scart input lines bridged to the HDMI input to maake it think it is receivng a signal?
>>2731830
No not enough information. We have no way of knowing what causes your device to output via HDMI and no way to find out because you've provided no information.
If you're going to tie 5v to something you'd probably want to tie it to hot plug detect.
>>2731843
I've come here and asked because I don't know much at all about video technologies beyond composite and RGB.
I have provided the useful information I can think of off the top of my head.
You could have at least advised on a comprehensive list of useful information required that I can go and gather and how I would go about it so we can progress.
Have tried +5V to the hotplug, but again there was nothing.
There can only be a limited number of pins used to get a device to read that it's got some form of input and activate.
I'll tell you that it's one of these Chinese cheap HDMI upscalers, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1080P-SCART-to-HDMI-Upscaler-Converter-Monitor-HDTV-Wii-Sky-XBox-PS3-STB-TV-DVD-/331657842886?hash=item4d385910c6
Someone will tell me to fuck off and get a decent upscaler, and I will tell them that it's not for the speed or qualty, just reitterate it's so I can use SCART on a DVI mnitor.
>>2731876
I have the exact same adapter, and it works without something pluged in "hdmi input". Even tried with a DVI cable with an HDMI-DVI adapter.
You just got a defective unit I guess
>>2731813
Oh I see. It's like computer ram. Bad ram chip you swap ports to find if the ports bad or the chip is. Gotcha.
>>2726743
Try unplugging and plugging the CD board back in. Also pull the CD spinner up a little bit
>>2729835
Not him but do u know a way to fix horizontal lines?
>>2733163
Your LCD panel is most likely fucked.
>>2733185
Well, shit.
>>2731876
>HDMI has a limited number of pins
genius
Got a sports edition Dreamcast discovered pic related part came off the power board after hearing a rattling noise. Should I be worried? The console plays fine from what I've tested.
>>2734090
Yeah, it's fucked for like 99% of people.
Just would be easier to get a junk game boy and try and salvage the front LCD and board from it.
>>2734656
A missing cap is NEVER a good sign even if the console works.
I'd find a replacement ASAP.
A clear picture would be nice but it says 16v. I can't really make out the number under it. That's the capacitors rating.
You're going to need some soldering skills to replace it
Does it look like it came out of the slot there marked C53?
>>2734940
it looks like 330uF from the pic. Could be OK could be bad, depends where it is in the power section, looks like it's the output smoothing cap for the 12V rail considering the size, position, and 16V rating. Might function ok, the problem is when something spurious happens on the rail, without the cap it might take out some other components.
Should be able to solder it or find someone to solder it.
>>2696040
Good job man, was about to tell you to look up the data sheet, or just hook it up with jumpers such that you could easily remap the buttons while playing a game with a known controller config.
>>2734656
Re solder it. However make sure you solder it back in the correct polarity (it seems to me that the negative leg goes into the left side - it is marked on the board, just check the other caps). If you put it in backwards, bad things will happen, possibly explosive ones.
What that capacitor does is dampen any frequency ripples and generally act as an electric buffer. The machine will work without it to a degree, but it may be less stable, hence "to a degree" - it might stay rock stable, it might crash or overheat twice as easily.
If you replace it, make sure you keep the exact same uF rating, and that the voltage is AT LEAST as high as the cap you replace. You shouldn't use lower voltage caps. Higher voltage will work equally fine, but is more expensive, so a waste of money (you won't feel like that if you buy 1 cap, but once you buy them in the dozens...).
The thing I'd most be concerned with, is whether the solder pads on the bottom are still intact, or if they got broken off the PCB. A through-hole cap shouldn't just fall off like that.
>>2735057
Yes, but you'll need to replace it with the same style. I know there might be a few versions of it.
I order one of these OriginalXbox-to-USBport adapters online two weeks ago and it finally arrived in the mail today.
The first thing I did was plug it in and then plugged a Playstation-to-USB adapter onto it and plugged in my Dualshock2 controller. The Playstation adapter lights up and the Dualshock2 lights up when you press the Analog button, but it doesn't work on the XBMC dashboard and doesn't work in the NES emulator either.
Any ideas on what I have to do to make it work? I know the cable itself functions, I plugged in a USB flashdrive into it and XBMC detected it.
>>2736993
All that cable does is make a USB drive show up as a memory card.
It doesn't convert any signals.
I really hope you didn't but it with the intention of playing with a PS2 controller.
The main thing they're used for is soft modding xboxes.
>>2737078
One of the reviews on the product said that they used it to play their Genesis and Saturn controllers with it, using another USB adapter for them as well.
Here's the exact product I purchased
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SMCJB4Y
ps dual shock controller issue, d pad and left shoulder buttons have gone dead, left stick still functions ,right side functions intact,
what actions could I take to repair?
So being the fucking dunce I am I just fried my PSOne by feeding it 9 V (merely weeks after I finally modchiped the fucker). I figured if it was OK with 8.5 (PS2 PSU) 9 wouldn't hurt... I was wrong...
Sorry for the extreme potato quality photo.
Damage seems very localized though, and I was thinking maybe it would be possible to repair? From what I can see it's only these two SMD components? Then again what you don't see can always be much worse, can't it?
The motor of the CD unit smells kind of strange too though, and I'm wondering if it's possible that that's fried too. In which case just getting a new mobo is out of the question.
>>2738435
So for your extreme potato quality brain
>>2738450
Yeah. I guess the lesson is don't fuck around with this shit while drunk. Also I've gotten too used to 7805-equipped units like the Famicom, Super Famicom and PC Engine. Those fuckers don't really care what you put in them.
>>2738462
>units like the Famicom, Super Famicom and PC Engine. Those fuckers don't really care what you put in
You are an unbelievably dumbass.
>>2738470
Well to an extent you don't overheat the regulator of course (and you shouldn't fuck up the polarity). But I've put in from 6 V to like 10 V in ye old SFC and PC Engine and they work fine. I think 9 is canonical for those though?
But enough of calling me a dumbass, I'm already aware of this fact, and more helping me analyze the situation here. Is it likely that the CD unit was fried too?
>>2738472
>Is it likely that the CD unit was fried too?
Who knows. Replace the obviously damaged components and try again.
>>2738876
What are they though? Fuses? Resistors? Anybody here who happens to know PSOne schematics?
>>2738946
Next time just use the power supply it was designed for you fucking moron.
>>2738435
It's was a diode, Google psone d004.
>>2719245
Sorry I can't help, but just wanted to say that I had this same problem. Killed the X button on my favorite PSOne controller. The adapter worked fine for a long time before it happened.
>>2719245
You can buy a PS4 controller and use it out of the box on PC.
>>2688179
I'm trying to restore an old SNES, but I need to take out those goddamn screws it has.
And I don't know how to improvise a screwdriver for these. Or how such screwdriver would be called.
>>2740642
What you're looking for are gamebits, like http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BEZY2I6
You can get them from other places, these just happen to be the pair I use.
Hi! Guy who fried his PSOne here, some 12 V Zener Diode shopping later. The PSOne seems to be working fine now. This post >>2738975 got me in the right direction, thanks.
I've also learned a lesson to be more careful what PSUs you plug into equipment. Especially when it comes to late 90s CMOS equipment that is anal about voltage and even current.
>>2688179
Okay so Im hooking up my SNES and Gamecube with composite cables (RYW) and I'm looking to buy a tv (need to get HD for convenience, can't go with CRT) and I notice pretty much all the units available have component inputs (RBG). I'm wondering will I be able to connect? I can really go with any model, probably gonna go with a samsung, insignia, dynex for around 200. Do I need an adaptor of some kind? Thanks in advance
>>2741824
Just get a GC component inputs (RBG) cable. kek
>>2742069
does anyone besides bait want to help me out?
>>2742072
OK. Sorry. I was just having a laugh. Just make sure your new TV has composite (RYW) and use that. You might be able to squeeze something better out of the setup but that' ll do.
I have a Mega CD with a typical blown fuse issue. I never got around to fixing it, but around the time it blew, I found a video on Youtube with someone who doesn't just replace the fuse, they wire it up so you can swap it easy any time it breaks.
Has anyone seen this? I've searched for it again and haven't found it. Most videos are just the standard how to take out a fuse, etc.
>>2741510
How you needed to learn that lesson is behind me. Its obvious.
>>2742072
Do new TVs not have composite? I don't own one, so I don't know. Doing a quick search on eBay, I see that converters do exist, although they seem expensive. I will say that one day I went to look at how my parent's DVD player was hooked up to their TV, and they were using a composite cable through the component ports...I don't know why it worked, but it did.
>>2743596
nowadays composite is usually shared with Y from component
>>2743596
Never seen one that doesn't but no doubt someone will eventually make one without it to save a few bucks.
>>2743403
Was it an inline fuse holder?
>>2741824
Component isn't RGB, it's YUV. RGB isn't encoded, while YUV is.
>>2743583
We all have bad days.
>>2688179
Guys I know this "non-retro issue" problems these threads have been dealing with, and this is probably the least retro issue posted on these threads, and I apologize in advance but really, there's no other place to ask in the whole 4chan.
So, my Wii U Gamepad left analog stick has become faulty (it suddenly moves wherever the hell it wants), I have several busted controllers from other consoles for spare parts, soldering is not a problem. But I really don't want to open this thing yet unless I am 100% certain I have the correct replacement part.
So the question is, can I use a PS3, Xbox 360 or Wii U Pro analog joystick module to replace the one on the Wii U Gamepad?
>>2744947
PS3 uses a smaller size analogue stick, I know for sure that Wii U pro is identical. I believe 360 is the same as you can swap the thumb stick caps between the two.
>>2688179
please stop posting this picture without the white dot in mario's pupils, thank you
Here's a niche repair log.
http://assemblergames.com/l/threads/58578/
I'm finding myself playing more NES games in marathon fashion, and after one instance in Life Force I'm finding a worry for secure contact connections. Is it worth it to buy a top loader for this? From what I've seen they only do RF output, is it easy to mod them to do other things, like composite or even component?
So, my PS2 is officially not reading some of my PS1 discs, so I need to replace the laser. I'm wondering if there's a recommended laser to get because I know at least some PS2 lasers have calibration problems and hit the disc?
>>2736993
So let me get this straight... Because basic serial devices work with it, you think an encoded device like a PS2 controller would work?
Any tips to a guy who has never soldered before who is about to change out the caps on an original NES? Trying to fix the dreaded "wavy line" video out put after trying everything else.
>>2747292
Don't go directly into replacing the caps, find a cheap or broken electronic and practice removing and resoldering things on that first.
On paper, it looks easy, and I've done reading on the subject, but I am having a hard time figuring out what are the pitfalls- how do you know when you've made a mistake?
>>2747365
>how do you know when you've made a mistake?
If you ask yourself "have I practiced how to do this several times?" and the answer is "no" then it would be a very serious mistake to proceed.
Right. I will take your advice and practice on a junk board. Taking the solder off with braid seems easy. I'm worried about, once I stick the caps wires through the holes and attempt to dab solder on them...if I get too much or too little, if any gets on the green board- if that is going to ruin the whole thing...?
>>2747292
Are you using the proper power supply? If you're using pic related, it will fuck up your output because of interference. You might be able to fix it with a ferrite ring, but you'd probably be better off getting a proper AC adapter.
Does anyone have any experience with replacing dead save batteries in Game Boy games? Am I better off buying a regular CR2025 battery at a store and taping it in (as in this video https://youtu.be/RsROHA7RUCQ), or is it worth buying the batteries on ebay with soldering prongs on them already?
>>2747629
Buy it at the store and tape it in.
>>2747593
>supply continuous power
>easy to use
Thanks China, very considerate of you to cover all the bases.
>>2747593
Tried different power supplies. Is there ever a reason to believe that the original power supply could go bad, because that is what I started with.
What exactly does the ferrite ring do- shielding?
>>2747476
>if any gets on the green board- if that is going to ruin the whole thing...?
The green coating is meant to prevent solder from sticking anywhere it's not supposed to. As long as you aren't using too much, it'll stay where you put it. If it's getting too hot, take a break and let it cool down.
Some guy is selling a copy of alien soldier for the mega drive (european version).
How can i know if that is not a repro?
>>2747719
Its supposed to help out with interference from the power cord, though I haven't actually tested it myself. If you're using an AC adapter outputting 9v 1.3A and you're still getting interference, I guess its not the power cord. Just wanted to throw that out there since a lot of resellers package garbage cords.
>>2748392
Ask him. If he says yes, believe him. If he says no, call him a liar and walk away.
>>2748392
Check that the label fits right and doesn't look like something that was printed and stuck on.
If you're really paranoid, open it up and check the board to see if it looks like a hand soldering job.
>>2748395
>>2748401
It looks fine, i think.
And he was extremly cautious about the payment and shipping (he called me 4 different times to make sure about the way i wanted to pay, what shipping i wanted, if my address was correct and to call him back when it arrives)
So, I'm looking to knock out the NES CIC chip with the two wire mod. Thing is, I don't have the revision they have on the few sites that show the points to solder to.
Would anyone have any high resolution of each NES board revision? Bonus if you provide the two wires you need to connect to knock out the CIC chip
Thanks.
>>2750087
The mod I'm talking about FYI
>>2750087
Is the chip damaged?
>>2750112
No?
I want to knock it out so I don't have to deal with the flashing screen. This is a better solution in my book then ripping a leg off.
