ITT: We discuss our color management workflows.
I'm interested in how you guys keep colors consistent throughout your whole workflow, from taking the photograph to printing it.
I don't currently have a color calibrator or a colorchecker passport. However thinking of picking them up. I do have a gray card for white balance.
Also, do you guys edit in Adobe RGB, ProPhoto, or sRGB? and what is the final output colour space you'll use?
[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties: Camera Software Adobe Photoshop CS4 Macintosh Image-Specific Properties: Image Orientation Top, Left-Hand Horizontal Resolution 72 dpi Vertical Resolution 72 dpi Image Created 2013:01:30 16:38:20 Color Space Information sRGB Image Width 660 Image Height 879
>>2700633
Sorry OP. We all shoot film here.
I use the colorchecker passport myself and love it.
I edit in Adobe RGB but output in whatever is appropriate depending on usage.
>>2700697
this desu
Hate to say it, but the vast majority of /p doesn't print. You're better off googling for stuff in this scenario.
I apologize for not being helpful
>>2700724
Do you change the colours vastly from the sooc image?
Sometimes I think it only matters to make sure the monitor profile matches the printer, cause I edit my photos so much.
>>2700741
I have this impulsive need to overly color-process since this is one of those approval magnets on social media.
I may be shallow but its hard to get invested into this sort of hobby when your're not getting positive feedback at times.
baka tbqh senpaitachi
>>2700741
Sometimes the color is signficantly different to sooc after it's corrected with the colorchecker software.
I've never seen it look worse.
>>2701134
To add to that - no, I don't deliberately change the colors. Most of what I photograph is objects and artefacts so I'm going for the most authentic color reproduction rather than the most pleasing.
I use dcraw and Argyll CMS in my workflow.
I used Argyll and a colorchecker target to profile my camera under d50 lamps.
I edit in linear Sharp color space as it is the most physically accurate for white balancing. I created my own icc profile for this.
www.anyhere.com/gward/papers/PicturePerfect.pdf
I get my printing icc profiles from the printers.
I develop the photographs for print by using a self made sharp to printer link profile that uses gamut mapping with a saturation rendering intent. This ensures colours softly blend to the edge of the gamut without clipping, but keep their perceptual saturation.
>>2700633
I'm not a professional but I've managed to get all my settings right through trial and error to now that what I see on the screen is what prints out with a 5-10% variance, mostly blacks/highlights slightly too high or low.
Shoot and edit in Adobe RGB(Canon printer likes it) and just convert to sRGB if it's going to the shared digitally/online with no change in the way the image looks. For some reason in the past colors would get funky if I changed the color profile, but somewhere along the line everything started going smoothly.
>>2700633
Theres no real reason to edit in proPhoto right now. If you want to print then there isn't a printer (affordable at least) that can print those colors anyway nor would there be visual and noticeable difference.
If anything the best way to edit is to do so in Adobe(1998) 16bit save as an archiveable image and export as a 8bit file within the same color space. If you're using it for web use then save it as a 8bit sRGB since most monitors can only reproduce 97% sRGB on average.
>>2700633
I usually choose Adobe RGB when taking photos. I then develop them using LR/ACR and save the Results as a 16-Bit .tiff and an 8-Bit .jpg in SRGB mode.
>>2701808
>selling color-correction charts
>customers are braindead
>have to actually make colors incorrect in 'after' to sell them
>probably kill myself soon
>>2700633
I use Spyder for my laptop with connected external monitor to colormatch two monitors. The diff after calibration is quite significant. No color calibration package with printer though.
>>2701599
The way I understand it, is that ProPhoto RGB DNGs are the best way to archive your photos cause they will hold the most colour information as well as not being a proprietary RAW that could lose support in the future.
AdobeRGB is the best editing space cause its not as complex as ProPhoto but more flexible than sRGB.
And 8-bit sRGB is the best output format because its the most universally compatible with most devices and print media.
I use a Spyder to calibrate my screen, and only use a Spydercheckr when I am doing colour-sensitive work (e.g. photographing artwork).
>>2702253
I haven't thought of archiving this way actually. This is good info.
>>2700633
How did I do with the color management of this photo? The couple wanted me to add some color to the photo.
How many people here are actually using IPS panels? Everyone I hope.
I think it's odd for someone with a TN panel to be using anything above sRGB. You end up with prints from a lab with information you could never see on your screen.
I shoot sRGB, have an inexpensive IPS, and send my prints to ProDPI. I've never had anything off the mark on their standard paper. I highly recommend using their ICC profiles for their matte paper however because it's drastically different.
