hey, /out/, when I go climbing at the gym (have to get comfy leading in gym b4 i go /out/side to climb) I get scared to death leading above a bolt and freeze up, especially when clipping and am super pumped.
Anyone have the same problem? Solutions?
>>677224
Smoke some weed
In the gym, go up a few bolts and practice falling a lot. There is a reason you should trust the equipment, so convince yourself of it.
>>677228
i feel like that would impair my judgement too much...
>>677235
Do a bump of coke to even you out
tell your belayer not to take, no matter how much of a whiny bitch you become, and just keep going til you pop off.
oh, and drop the "i have to get good enough to go outside" mindset and get on some real rock.
>>677224
Practive falling and test your gear.
There's no other way around it.
>>677224
I know that feel anon.
My only suggestion would be to practice falls in the gym to kill the fear, and then practice falls on an overhung outdoors route.
>>677224
If sport climbing, find a good route w well space bolts, and climb it and do a "clip-drop" lead. You can do this at the gym too ex https://vimeo.com/4026166
If leading on trad, find a buddy to help evaluate your gear. Then find a good route, start w passive pro (stoppers,) equalize 1 or 2 and climb a little above the piece, and fall on it. Same deal w active pro. Equalize a piece or place a few in quick succession, and fall on it.
Your lead head will get better in time anon. We're all scared of falling now and again. It's how you harness the fear and focus it.
>>678106
No, you practice falling and getting your body into a ready position, hands up knees bent to absord the impact. Practice falling and keeping the rope in front of you so it doesn't spin flip you upside down.
>>678106
see OP, this is what happen if you don't practice: on your first fall you'll land head first and end up with a single digit QI
Do some whipper therapy in the gym, clip third or fourth draw, climb halfway above the fifth and just drop on it.
