Old thread is reaching bump limit
>>664235
>>672272
/This
![custom-made-damascus-bushcraft-knife-hunting-knife-sheath-[5]-279-p.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/SdZbuMd.jpg "custom-made-damascus-bushcraft-knife-hunting-knife-sheath-[5]-279-p.jpg")
>>672268
>shit spelling
>shit pic
>Knoife general 11 already going on
thread reported
Nobody ever posts what to sharpen them with. I have a Work Sharp.
I still have my signal as my go to innawoods knife.
>>672291
My wave is now my designated pack knife
>>672280
I use either sharpening stones or the lansky set
My newest...
>>672317
What is that?
>>672322
stiff fillet knife
>>672280
I use the Spyderco Sharpmaker, but I feel like I do a better job with old-fashioned whet stones.
>>672315
Forgot to add, after a stone sharpen, i use an old leather belt as a strop to get the edge really nice.
>>672315
>>672354
I had a bunch of sharpening things and I sucked at them. Also the Lansky won't sharpen wide and real thick knives.
>>672359
I also have this old thing.
I have a couple of Benchmades. The black one is an auto.
>>672359
what the flying fuck? Got enough?
Rate babbie's first knife collection
>>672394
I think I have more. 9 out of 10 of the things I got for Christmas and such.
>>672397
They look like knives someone would have going from unemployed to employed.
Can anyone recommend a puukko? I know there are some good ones, but sorting through is honestly rather daunting.
I'll be using it mostly for carving/whittling tasks, if that helps.
>inb4 mora
>>672448
Is that from top to bottom ?
>>672453
Bottom to top = unemployed to employed. $15 to mid $30 then jumps to about $200 for that benchmade auto
>>672397
How is the kershaw with bits in the handle?
My Hen & Rooster hunting knife. Authentic stag antler handle and German steel blade w/ hook.
Anyone have any experience with Jeff white knives? Are they good /out/doors knives?
>>672469
Solid meh. Decent blade steel like all Kershaws but if I want a screwdriver with my knife I'll just get a multitool. It was a gift though so I didn't spend any $$ on it.
>>672451
I love my Ahti. It's the one Ragnar calls a leuku, or some such similar shit, but they also make puukkos and the quality should be similar. If so, it's a hell of a knife.
>>672476
Grind that stupid hook off the back of the blade and it might be a decent knife.
>>672537
Those hooks are great for skinning a deer.
I guess I post my knifes here also..
>>672538
No, they are not. That trailing point without the hook would be a good skinning blade. That's where the blade pattern originated. I'm old, and old men taught me how to field dress deer. I can have a deer from freshly dead to ready to quarter in just a few minutes and I do so using a trapper pocket knife and a little bit of string. You can, and probably do, use different methodology. In other words, your mileage may vary.
That said, I was a bit snarky. 4chins brings that out in me sometimes. I wish unto you many freshly killed foods to skin with your cock and pullet whacker.
So I bought my first knife the other day, for future adventures (pic related, a Gerber "Big Rock"), and thought I'd come to this board and see what others use and such. I've read a lot of negative comments about Gerber as whole, so I'm not sure if I've made a poor decision or if I'm just needlessly worrying.
>>672584
I have an older Gerber LMF and I like it a lot. I don't care what anyone says.
>>672587
Oh neat!
Personal preference doesn't bother me, but it'd be different if Gerber were prone to breaking or something
>>672588
>if Gerber were prone to breaking or something
People will frantically google for broken Gerbers then come up with a few examples of some guy abusing it, you can do that with just about any knife. I just ignore them
>>672584
I've never broken a Gerber. I've never owned a Gerber with decent edge retention. Learn to put a convex edge on the blade and you'll minimize the time you have to spend keeping it sharp.
And remember to sharpen the serrations from the front only. Use a corner of a small stone or a triangular stone to raise a small burr on the back side, then lay the stone flat to the blade and polish off the burr.
>>672601
I never even considered a convex edge, thanks.
Also, would you happen to know what that small notch is for near the base of the blade? Just before the serration starts? I was thinking for ferro rods, but I'm not very knowledgeable with these things.
>>672603
It's called a choil. You put your finger there for control when you're doing fine work at the base of the blade. You have serrations, so you won't be doing that. It also acts as a relief so you can sharpen all the cutting edge without running your stones into the ricasso (the area of the blade where it hasn't been beveled right in front of the handle).
>>672606
Informative, thank you!
>>672608
Thanks. Here's an infographic that's more info than graphic. I made this a long time ago. Have at it and remember it's ok to disagree with me.
>>672612
Thanks again, will come in handy after the blade sees some use in a few days!
>>672536
Checking out Ahti now. Their Metsä or Vaara seem to be just what I'm looking for. Thanks anon
I posted this in the Knoife thread before it got derailed, figure I might post it here.
Seems like lots of the Moras have the more slender blade almost like a filet knife. What are the pros and cons of a slender blade like the Mora and a wider, butcher knife looking blade like the Kershaw in the pic? Given they are both like 4" blades...
>>672783
The distance from cutting edge to spine is largely cosmetic other than its effect on turning radius of the knife. Blade geometry at the tip and thickness of spine are more important. That said, blades with a thicker spine tend to be wider so they don't have to grind a steep angle from spine to cutting edge.
>>672783
For fucks sake, can I not run into you wherever I go?
Brusletto Fiskespretten ftw
>>672873
I just said what up in the fishin thread. I have been over here a lot lately. But /o/ is the only other board I really go on.
Opinion on this knife? Does anyone use/own this Winchester Bowie Knife?
>>672783
I wouldn't want that Kershaw just for the dumb knuckle-grip handle. Those get uncomfortable for long term use and you can't adjust hand position as well.
>>673116
Ehh, it was $17 with shipping included so I own one. That is a discontinued model. The grip isn't so bad. It's my tackle bag knife.
bumpin it up
Should i post in this thread
>>673107
>painful finger grooves
>unuseable choil in front of full guard
>winchester
>made in China, sells for $30
>unnamed 'surgical stainless steel' ,nuff said
>shitty sheath
(yes I looked it up on amazon)
would not buy. Repeat WOULD NOT BUY
I mean do you even have a brain?
>>673631
This one IMHO
>>673631
Yes, this is the knife thread
Will you faggots stop shit posting in the real knoife thread? Keep your discussions about pegging and chastity and pepsifag in your containment thread.
>>673715
i'm considering making a couple of other knife generals because this is not nearly confusing enough. i'm thinking about numbering them backwards too...
>>673719
You could make one for sharp knives only. You must be sharpened to at least 3000 grit to post and you must have done a decent job.
Here's me chopping trees.
>>673724
Yeah, if you don't have a picture of the knife edge reflecting text you don't get to hang out with the cool kids.
>>673728
And smashing more
>>673730
a picture paints a thousand autisms
>>673743
Okay, fair enough. Carry on then
>>672391
These are pretty clean, do you even /out?
>>673631
No, this is the no fun allowed one, and where all the faggots butt fuck each other, you're better with us, Knoife master race.
what Mora has:
>best quality price ratio
>minimalist
>lighweight
>durable
>sharp
it must also look good is possible (=no flashy colors like pink or yellow)
>>673986
Mora pro S. Ty
>>673989
it's too small, there's no way i can baton or chop down a tree with such a small blade
>>673992
I didn't knew you were retarded, sorry anon
Hey sc/out/s, I already have a nice full tang knife, but I'm looking for a cheap fire starter/sharpener for my camping bag. What do you anons suggest? The cheaper and more compact the better.
>>674007
I'll try to remember to post pics of mine tomorrow.
>>673989
Sauce
>>672279
I plan to buy a TBS Boar. Is it good ?
>>674270
Meh I prefer the steeper beveled blades on puukkos.
The TBS Boar is just another iteration of a 'bushcraft' knife.
>chopping a fucking tree with a knoife
what a retard
>>674271
But for a bushcraft knife, does it gives good results ? Good quality ?
I have watched several videos, I like the shape of the knife but as it is a bit pricey, I wouldd like some opinions on the quality before buying.
>>674336
All dogshit
Did you find them all in the trash?
>>672476
Anyone else see the thumbnail and think that the sheath was the shadow of a levitating knife?
>>673729
In memory of the late Sir Terry. Sorry about potato-cam.
Noli timere messorem.
>>674405
how is Poland so based? No knife laws and not accepting refugees. If you guys have some good /out/ places maybe in the future I'll move there,
t. White euro
>>672272
>every knife thread starts like this
>>674405
what's that knife?
>>672317
It's called a tanto. It's an ancient Japanese warblade often used as a sort of secondary or backup to the more effective katana.
>>672378
Evidently no one gives a shit but you
>>674397
hahahahaha upvote senpai!
Anyways, yeah, it does look like that.
>>673107
Biggest problem is the guard. It's completely worthless when /out/, and also makes the choil completely useless (even though it's too small to use even if the guard weren't there). Basically, don't buy it. I quite honestly wouldn't buy any knife advertised as a bowie.
Whats a good edc knife that holds an edge well?
>>673754
And a reply paints a thousand more.
>>674439
depends on what you do for edc.
>>674441
Nothing that extreme I open a lot of boxes and whatnot and tired of having a cheap dull knife
>>674443
then depends on how much you want to spend. Least I feel good recommending is a spyderco delica 4 - thin blade, full flat grind, and pointy.
could also recommend something like pic related. Not just the coyote, but the sharp point and narrow blade is useful for edc - particularly if you have to pierce something and then cut it.
just look for that general blade shape.
>>674445
also something like an esee izula, or tops msk, or similar knives.
The one I carry, personally, is an ltwk next gen - about the same size as an izula 2, but nicer.
Generally - if you're just opening boxes, you want a nice, sharp point. But if you're breaking down boxes, you might want a beefier handle.
Of course, if you fancy spending ~150 bucks, you can get a powder steel knife, like s30v or better, and they take and hold a very good edge.
Pic related: the delica 4 I mentioned earlier, as well as my other edc knives (next gen and techno).
>>674445
Price isn't to much of an issue whats the difference between the cheaper and more expensive spydercos? They look pretty similar like the delica 4 or the paramilitary 2.
For anyone that know about steel is 440 steel any good?
>>674452
Materials, mostly, and fit and finish.
Spydercos are made in 4 main places - Golden Colorado (para 2), Seki Japan (delica), China (lower end models), and Taiwan (high end models).
Obviously, the ones from PRC use 8cr13mov steel. delica is made from VG10 (and there have been runs in super blue), higher end models use powder steel - usually cpm s30v, s110v, and cts xhp (though cold steel has been buying up most of the XHP lately).
Here's a vid of a domino, in CTS XHP, cutting phonebooks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20GoANlDgvY
the para 2 is bigger than the delica (if you just want a longer blade, there's the endura). It also has a different type of lock (compression lock, rather than back lock), and a beefier handle.
Heavier too, but not that much.
>>674459
what 440?
If it just says 440, then it's most likely 440a, or 440b (wouldn't count on it), which is not a good steel. Definetely not 440c. You'd probably be better off with 420hc, which is the one 420 series steel that doesn't suck.
>>674462
The shop just advertised with 440 steel but I searched around now and found out it's 440c.
Is that better than 440a or b?
>>674459
The real answer is "what do you want it to do?"
think of knife steel the same way as a tool: you use the right tool for the right job, and it excels. you ask an axe to do fine carving, it might be able to do some degree, but not as well as a carving knife. Is this making sense?
You will never get a straight answer to the question of knife steel. Everyone has an opinion, and a lot of it is based on conjecture than actual experiences or data (which is unfortunate).
So I guess a better question is this: "what are you going to use your knife for anon/what do you want out of it?" There are plenty of 'well rounded' steels, but none that does every job perfectly. For example, s60v holds an edge like a beast, but is hard as fuck to sharpen. You sacrifice one for the other. That sort of thing.
If you're looking for a hunting knife, like the one you have in the picture, 440 might not be the worst thing, but I would never stake my life on it in a survival situation. Stainless steels are probably a good choice if you're going to be processing meat, but they dont hold an edge very well.
If you want my opinion I am happy to give it, but I need to know what the hell you want it to do haha.
And keep in mind that as soon as I recommend something, some anon on here is going to disagree with me immediately. That's just the nature of knife steels: everyone has seen ___ data set, or has __ opinion because of __. That's just the nature of it. I've done some research, but that doesnt mean someone else with an equally valid opinion hasnt also done some research.
>>674470
Oh, I misrepresented something. "Stainless steels are probably a good choice if you're going to be processing meat, but they dont hold an edge well unless they're super steels like vg10, s30v, s60v etc."
I was thinking about 440 specifically when I typed that. 440 in my experience is quite soft and doesnt hold an edge well. There are some stainless steels that do hold edges well (better than carbon steels) but often these are alloys/super steels.
>>674470
What is a robust steel you can depend on in survival situations? I'll use it for camping and maybe hunting, but I don't have any knife that is very robust.
>>674468
440c is the best of the 440 line.
>>674472
there are also semi-stainless steels like D2 (which is technically not stainless, but has decent corrosion resistance).
to expand on >>674470 and >>674472
steel is an alloy (Iron and carbon), and "stainless" means there is chromium in the mix as well, to increase corrosion resistance. On the extreme end of this, you have steels like H1, designed for highly corrosive environments, like saltwater,
"super steels", besides being powder metallurgy steels (giving them a very fine grain structure), also have additional alloying elements, like canadium, niobium, etc. This, and the process of making them, promotes the formation of carbides, which are hard and cut very well.
>>674460
Oh I see, thank you thats very helpful.
>>674479
most bushcraft/survival knives use 1095 high carbon steel (or some equivalent).
Some (usually the higher end ones) use O1 and A2. Good heat treat is important, and you don't need a 1/4 inch thick prybar either. Here's a 1/8'' thick A2 steel knife doing some stupid shit and living to tell the tale:
https://youtu.be/RCQR6xymR2g?t=767
>>674479
Oof. Can of worms here. The answer is "Whatever qualities you find more important versus others, that will give you your answer."
This guy's got a good idea, >>674481
from what I can tell, so maybe I'll expand off of that and give you a more full answer.
>>674481
I agree, 440 C is the best of the 440 line, but that's because it has Carbon in it.. this makes it more durable, but also more rust prone. With 440 of any kind, you dont have to worry about that very much. I think 440 is a fine choice for a kitchen knife or a knife that processes meat, because you dont need much more than "stainless and wont crack if you hit bones (though it will chip, fyi)"
Yes, he's right - there are semi stainless steels too, most of which I really like. I have a d2 knife that I carry a lot in the woods, and I like it quite a bit. The biggest beef I have with d2 is that it is a little harder to sharpen than some of my other knives.
Yes, and I would not recommend H1 for anything but industrial environments, where you need these extremes in corrosion resistance. I also think you'll be hard pressed to find anyone that thinks that H1 is a good steel for an all around survival knife, because its edge retention is poor.
An aside on super steels: they are often very enticing, because they boast everything people want in knives (edge retention, fine cutting edge abilities, semi or stainless properties, durability), but are also MUCH more expensive than other steels.
If you want an answer without doing any real research, I would say that some cheaper (though still very good) steels I'd recommend for a survival knife would be 01, D2, A2, and in some cases 1095 (I am not crazy about it, but other people really like it for reasons I wont get into here). Some high end/super steels/expensive steels would be s30v, VG10, ELMAX...
Also, an idea to keep in mind: HEAT TREATMENT/TEMPERING IS OFTEN AS IMPORTANT IF NOT MORE IMPORTANT THAN THE STEEL ITSELF. (more..)
>>674495
If you arent familiar with the rockwell hardness scale, I wont get into it, just take my word for it: you probably want a knife that is close to 60 on the RW scale. Some people like softer tempering because it is less likely to chip or crack, but you sacrifice edge holding capabilities the softer you go. Some people like excess of 61+ which means the steel is more brittle (prone to crack and chip) but holds an edge extremely well. I think 59 or 60 is about perfect IN MY OPINION. If you're looking around at knives and they dont list the rockwell hardness, move the fuck on. Dont waste your time.
>>674487
Yes, this is true. Most do use 1095.. but there are better steels in my opinion. I do see some merits, which is why I cant disregard its usefulness, such as the ability to strike sparks form the spine of the knife with a hard rock in an emergency to make fire.. etc. Not my personal choice though. I dont think anyone is wrong in choosing it as their steel of choice, I just personally like other steels better.
He also brings up (with the video) some other important factors in survival knives: It needs to be thick, full tang, and somewhere between 4.5-5 inches or so. This all depends on who you ask, but I doubt anyone would debate me on "it needs to be thick and full tang" at least. IMO it should also have a scandi grind, flat grind, convex grind, or double bevel edge and be drop point or something without a 'belly' ideally. But that's getting into more personal opinion stuff. Blades with bellies people might not debate me on - they are harder to sharpen in the wilderness, there's no denying that.
other than that, the knife in that video has basically all the qualities I would want in a survival knife (so long as it is tempered correctly).
>>674499
you should also keep in mind that if you ONLY had a knife in a survival situation, you want it to do everything at least semi well. I have a s30v bushcraft knife, but it spooks me a little, because you can really only sharpen it well with a diamond sharpener. If I didnt have one in the wilderness, then that would be really bad.
To summarize, other qualities you want besides steel would be: 4.5-5 inch blade, full tang, 90 degree spine (so you can strike a ferro rod off of it and junk), and possibly non coated/carbon steel so you can strike sparks off the spine with a rock (but that's kind of splitting hairs - not a must have, just nice if you had nothing but a knife in the wilderness). 01, a2, d2, 1095 are all good steels that are cheaper, but I have trouble sharpening d2, s30v, vg10, (I dont own an elmax knife) with anything but a diamond sharpener. You can sharpen 1095 on a rock all day long, which might be one of the reasons people like it so much. Other than that, tempering is vitally important: 60ish on the rockwell scale is my personal favorite. Lower than 56 is soft and resistant to chipping, but wont hold an edge as well, and higher than 61 will hold an edge extremely well but could crack or chip more easily. Hope this helps dude.
>>674503
oh I forgot: I take good enough care of my knives (oil them and keep them clean) that I dont give a shit if they're super rust prone. Some people really care about that because they dont take care of their knives as well, in which case stainless steels are more justified/a better choice. A lot of this is up to the individual. Also keep in mind that any knife is better than no knife in a real survival circumstance, so you dont need to get a 500 dollar knife necessarily.
>>674505
and for fuck sake, do NOT get a knife with serrations. If you need serrations for anything (I never have) on such a small scale, you should just use a folding saw or the saw on a swiss army knife... the way I see it, you use a lot of valuable cutting surface when you put serrations on a knife (and they're hard as fuck to sharpen). Here's another good example: if you're gutting a deer, the serrations will only get in the way because those little teeth will grab onto anything and tear it. If you've never accidentally snagged a deer's intestines and cut them open, I can promise it is both stupid and smelly. Just save yourself the trouble.
>>674503
as long as you don't get it completely dull, a 1000 grit ceramic rod is fine for s30v even.
There's a sheath called Deep Wood Xplored (DWX) - it is a hubrid leather/kydex sheath with a sliding lock retention and embedded ceramic rod - LT kas it as an option on some of their knives, but it's kind of expensive (like 75+ dollars expensive, if memory serves).
Also - the thickness isn't that much of an issue. There was a trend for survival knives to be 1/4'' thick (Dave specified 5/32'' at least), but honestly - 1/8'' is fine, and most bushcraft knives have settled on that (I've even seen some go down to 3/32'').
As for the "full tang" buisness - it's not so much about the sick tang knife breaking, as about the handle coming off and leaving you with a much less functional knife, than if the same were to happen to a full tang one. I have one stick tang that I have no problem doing heavy chopping with, and no fear of it breaking, but that's kind of a special case (also, you really want a kukri with a stick tang, for balance reasons - until you feel it in your hand, you'd be surprised how much of a difference even taperd tang does in terms of balancing the whole thing).
As has been said already - most of the time you'll do fine with 1095, 5160, O1, and A2.
Though it's not the only choice. Falkniven uses 3V and laminated VG10.
>>674525
True, but the difference in time/effort is what I'm driving at. Sharpening s30v with a diamond sharpener sharpens as fast as 1095 on a whetstone (non diamond).. but if you use that same whetstone and try to sharpen s30v, it will take more than twice the amount of time. And if you've never sharpened a knife before, we may be talking hours.
To your point on the ceramic rod - could be a nice option. I personally have a lansky diamond sharpening rod that I carry that would do the same trick, with the bonus that it is a diamond rod. It is probably heavier than the ceramic rod though, I'd guess, which could be a downside. A lot of this is personal preference/guess work.
The way I see it, you're generally correct. I would be more worried about the handle coming off. However, a rat tail (or stick tang) provides for one more failure point in the knife, and I dislike that. I would prefer to have as little failure possibilities as possible. Murphy's law. Maybe I'm paranoid. Regardless, I'm not attempting to demonize rat tail tangs or anything - I carry a Mora as a backup knife all the time, and that has a stick tang... love it to death. One knife scenario? I will reach for a full tang every time.
I dont have much experience with Kukris, so I cant speak to this, but I fully get your point. In that sense, the stick tang has a purpose... in a knife? That's left to the user.. I stand by my opinion, but hey, that's just my opinion.
Right on. A lot of Sandvik steels are pretty good too (speaking of moras), not to complicate the matter further haha.. but yes, those are all good steels.
Yes, I have one.. I am a big fan of VG10.. I've found they can hold a much finer edge and keep it for a long time than some other steels. It is a cheaper super steel.. I'd say it is superseded by s30v, in that s30v is a little better in every way, but the price difference almost doesnt justify it. I think my vg10 knives (2) can hold a more scalpel edge than s30v though.
>>674550
oh, and sharpening s30v on a rock in the wilderness? good fucking luck dude. You'll be there all day.
One of my favorite bushcraft knives is an s30v though.. not discounting it at all. That being said, I'll do anything to make sure I have a diamond rod with me.
>>674550
well, I forgot to add - that kukri has a 10mm (3/8'') spine, so good luck breaking it.
Also - the sammi have been using stick tang knives for ages, and no one is complaining. Hell - swords are made with stick tangs, and they're made for bashing wankers (and ending them rightly).
As for sharpening - I have a lansky turnbox with diamond and ceramic rods both - I keep telling myself I'll get a nice 3000 grit stone, or some other sharpening system, but for now I always keep putting it off. Also - I said "as long as you don't get it dull" Touching up an s30v blade on a ceramic/strop is not a problem, and doesn't take much effort. Resharpening a dull one without diamonds is a major PITA.
I onlu have one knife in VG10, but I can't say anything bad about it.
Again - everything comes down to sharpening skills. Here's a D2 steel blade push-cutting a tree (that's right, a tree. Like, a whole tree. Ok, not a very big one, but still)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6PrhodVA3U
>>674562
>Here's a D2 steel blade push-cutting a tree
want to bet i can do that with my dullest kitchen knife?
>>674562
Hm, I see what you're saying here. And most definitely a 3/8" spine is far better, but that's also NOT most rat tail tang knives. To be clear, I'm not trying to undermine you or anything, this is just my opinion. As I said, I love my Mora.
Just so we're on the same page, this is my worst nightmare
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNdY0dZy4sA
If I was in a real survival scenario, this would literally kill me. I dont like that risk. I sleep much better at night knowing that my knife is literally one giant piece with some scales bolted onto it.. bulletproof basically.
Totally right about the blade maintenance... and everyone should maintain their knives, but sometimes you just have to rehone that edge.. and I want a diamond rod to do that. You're right though - I strop my blade every day after use, as anyone that wants to maintain an edge should do.. but fuck if I didnt have that diamond rod when the time came!
Sharpening is vitally important - right on. And yeah, D2 can hold a wicked edge too. Sharpening is a super important skill to practice.
>>674590
well, then you have things like the CS SRK, which is basically a full tang, only the tang is not exposed, and there are videos of people doing really crazy shit to them.
And since we're taking a trip into crazy territory, there's another knife worth mentioning (pic related) - yup, the tracker.
Quick digression for those that don't know the story:
Back in 1980s, a journalist asked Brown, if he had to survive in the wild with only 1 knife, what would it be, to which Brown replied that it didn't exist, because he hadn't designed it yet. And went on to design the famous (or infamous) tracker as the ultimate survival knife.
But like the old saying - the best survival knife is the one you have when you need it. The TBT represents much of the 1990s trend in survival knives - big, clunky, 1/4'' thick.
Now - on it's own merit, it's a pretty good knife. It cuts, it slices. I've chopped with it, and batoned with it. I used it as a showel, and a hammer. It's not something I'd carry with me on any regular basis though.
It is basically #YOLO in knife form. One of those "fuck it, i'll just bring this one and do everything with it" knives.
For other people, that yolo knife might be a BK7, or something else. It's still good form to have a backup knife, but unless you really expect to push the limit of what you need to do with a knife (or just need a big one for a specific reason), you'll be better off with something smaller.
Especially, that most of the time, the knife you will end up using in any given situation is your edc knife - one of the reasons people carry stuff like the Izula, and similar blades.
>>674604
>My ADAMAS is D2.
and?
>>674603
Trying to refrain from exploding here, because the TBT is literally everything I hate in one package.
I'll try and keep it civil. In short, I dont like it.
People always try to get these huge knives, and it simply doesnt make sense. When you get a knife bigger than 6 inches it gets unwieldy.. you're better off just going full axe or a regular sized knife, because good fucking luck doing fine carving tasks with a huge knife. You're not getting the best of all worlds, you're just getting something that is bad at everything because it isnt big enough to be used as an axe, and too huge to do any carving or finesse work.
second, when you divide a knife blade into 2 sections like that, it becomes a bitch to sharpen. Try sharpening that inner blade half on a rock in the wilderness. It's ridiculous. I bring a sharpener anyway when I'm in the woods, but just a simple one - you'd have to get a kit to maintain both those edges, since you have to be so unnecessarily precise. You also lose the long strokes of a single blade, and resort to actually dulling each section extra quickly, since you're overusing one of the 2 edges.
third, you should NEVER have to pay 310 dollars for a 1095 knife. That is like buying a 5,000 dollar car for 100,000 bucks. Some people pay more for a knife due to the design, and that is totally worth a higher price tag, but this knife is not worth the extra price at all. I wouldnt take this knife for free.
It's also stupidly heavy. wow. Hardly surprising though when you look at how much steel is there. Regardless, it surprises me to no end that this guy made this knife for a wilderness scenario, because it seems to me like he has never carried a knife on his hip for a great distance. This would get annoying quick.
Anyway, the only good features are that it is full tang, and 1095 with good tempering :)
to be clear - there's a big difference between a knife looking cool and a knife that is functional.
>>674616
>and?
And go take a pic of you chopping a tree with a dull kitchen knife. I'll wait.
Just bought this... how fucked am i?
>>674603
BK7 is a better knife for sure. To be clear, there's a difference between a piece of metal that can take a beating, and a survival knife. Dont want to claim that the BK7 is that way, but definitely dont look at the millions of youtube videos of people beating these knives up and then claim that it is a good survival knife. Apples to oranges.
the BK7 is kinda unnecessarily big too.
Anyway, if you are implying that the TBT is a good choice for a survival knife, I completely disagree. I really liked what you had to say about sharpening, so I'll be sad if that is your opinion haha.
>>674629
Not TOO fucked. I would have picked something different, but it meets a lot of good criteria. Full tang, 1095, non serrated..
It is a little unnecessarily big imo, but at least it isnt some 2 inch folder.
If that's your knife, and you're not going to buy another, you sure could have done worse. Let's put it that way. If I could be so bold - you might wanna keep that dude oiled though. 1095 rusts very easily. If you're thinking you'll buy another knife in the future, I think this thread has all the info you'll need.
>>674627
this little exchange is really fun to watch :P
>>674627
i have already done it i didn't make vid
well technically it was a very soft very dull machete but same difference
>>674644
if it was 440 stainless, it may as well have been a kitchen knife. Our TBT fan friend probably wont be happy that you dont have a video though. I'll get the popcorn ready :)
>>674648
it is i believe 1075 steel but badly hardened
very young soft trees are not much harder to cut than branches if you extend them like that.
>>674651
Keep that shit oiled brother. I have to oil my 1075 shit every month haha.
Yes, you're definitely right. Putting that kind of tension on it makes it vulnerable to pretty much any good whack from anything.. though, I think TBT fan was implying a clean cut push through.
Anyway this is getting off topic. Does anyone wanna talk about knives some more? :)
>>674658
oh I just thought of something. If you can somehow take the scales off of the machete and fit it into your oven, you can temper it to a useful hardness in an oven. Lots of custom knife makers do this.. plenty of tutorials online.
>>674620
>>674630
I did say the TBT is basically #YOLO in knife form. As in "fuck it, i'll just have this knife for everything".
And I brought it up to illustrate a point (perhaps I didn't stress that enough):
Most of the time, the knife you end up using in any given situation, is your edc knife. The tracker does not qualify as an edc knife. It was made to be a "1-knife option", and to a certain extent - it can be. You can see on that picture, the primary edge is actually just over 4'' and cuts pretty well.
But If I could only have one knife, it would certainly NOT be the tracker (or any large knife for that matter).
For a "1 knife option" you actually want something that's handy enough to be an edc knife, and sturdy enough to be a bushcraft knife. THAT was the point I was trying to make.
If you can have 2 knives, your options open up A LOT.
As for the tbt - like I said - it represents much of the 1990s "survivalist" trends - big, clunky, 1/4'' thick.
And there is another lesson here. Much like those infamous "survival" knives (excuse the obscenity I just posted) that cropped up in the wake of Rambo movies, some people put too much faith in the tool, rather than skill. Which is where a lot of the hype for the tracker came from.
To be fair, Dustin did use a WSK on Alone (whatever you might have to say about that show), and it did well enough. Then again - the guy that came in 2nd had a very small knife, so it didn't really matter that much (and all of them brought axes).
>>674666
i don't think my oven can do 400C you need 350-400
>>674667
i have one knife i carry everywhere i go
it's a steel that is scoffed at a lot but it will not break or chip.
if i need to sharpen it some then so be it.
>>674667
Whew, glad you cleared that one up. Though, I still cant fully agree with your point.. I do NOT think that it is an all in one tool.. I dont think that such a tool exists, because you pick the right tool for the right job - and when you try to make one, you end up doing the opposite. Here's another example: you want a knife that can chop logs AND skin? Then you make a bigger, thicker knife. But now you have a knife that isnt as good at chopping as an axe, and a poor skinning knife due to it being heavy, long, and unwieldy. I'd prefer to just bring an axe and a knife, then you've covered all the bases.
You're entirely correct about the importance of skill over the tool! I think people forget this all too often. And in the case of "Alone" (though I never watched it, I'll go ahead and assume), this is a perfect example of that... any knife is better than no knife, and any knife if used in the right hands, can be useful. The point I'd like to drive though, is that you should still strive for a knife that is the best you can reasonably get, because its shitty to have a knife that will fail you (regardless of skill level) - especially when it could mean your death.
This is also a good example of opinions at work. I disagree - I think that the WSK and TBT are not good choices based on price and features, but if other people think that, it's totally cool. I know what meets my needs, and if those meet someone elses needs, then awesome.
I do however think that my opinion is based in reality, based on what I've seen work and not work in a real world scenario, as well as thinking ahead to possible events/long term survival. But you do you, friend :)
>>674669
ah, too bad. worth mentioning anyway :P
>>674676
my point exactly. You can easily make do with a 3 inch blade for most bushcraft tasks. I'd still prefer a fixed blade, because everything a folding knife is, every single part of it, is just making up for the fact that it ISN'T a fixed blde.
If nothing else, then no matter how strong your locking mechanism is, it still has moving parts.
But back to blade length - besides overusing your edge (because there is less of it), which isn't really much of an issue, the only time you need a long blade (besides batoning huge logs) is when trying to cut through something - like bread for example.
>>674669
way to tell the devil your oven isn't hot enough.
>>674683
oh, also, you're totally right about the EDC knife being the one you'll likely have. And I agree with the 2 knife option, and have been preaching that like a southern baptist for quite a long time. I carry a carbon steel knife every day, and strap a super steel knife to my belt in the wilderness. One method of covering the bases.
>>674686
concur 100%
I'll check on this thread again tomorrow if it's still around - good discussions :)
>>674683
>you want a knife that can chop logs AND skin?
there is a workaround for that one, actually. Far from perfect, and I'm not a skinner, but it works like a charm when separating hide from a side of pork (euro-bacon if you will).
Remember that kukri I posted earlier? Well, as it happens, the point of balance is right about here (pic related, knife at neutral balance the way i'm holding it), so you can use this grip, and the belly, which this one has more pronounced (rather than being a bit more pointy and leaf-shaped).
Far from perfect, but it does work (until you get blood all over it and things get slippery - it's more for vegetables).
Speaking of skill at handling a knife:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DHGlhFJH0g
As for the price of the TBT/WSK - considering you can get most of the HI and Tora blades line for less than that... well... yeah.
And if you've never watched Alone, the contestants were limited to just 10 items off a list (their own items), so "cheating" several tools in as a knife made sense, at least on paper.
Likewise - the tracker made sense on paper - the whole point of that interrupted edge was to protect the secondary edge from impact when chopping with the primary (tops should have made it a hollow grind though, since it's ONLY used for carving sticks, so it would make sense to have it sharper, rather than stronger - Beck didn't make that mistake). The sawback on the tracker is good though (but it's not exclusive, it's just the regular tops sawback) - not for sawing through stuff, but for making easy square notches. And you can use the flat of the blade to hammer stakes into the ground (hey, I've done it, and it makes up for what, 0.001% use of the knife? :P )
>>674686
>no matter how strong your locking mechanism is, it still has moving parts.
it's a compromise sure, but folders are really better for edc unless you literally live in the bushes. when i go out it's my backup blade i have a cheap ass mora to fuck around in the woods with.
>You can easily make do with a 3 inch blade for most bushcraft tasks.
i'm a city boy, i just go out for the fun of it, also the legal limit here (unless you have adequate reason to carry bigger) is slightly less than 3.5". frankly i might have bought a full sized recon of 4" blade if not for this, but quiet happy with the little guy.
>>674688
I meant one as in "you only own one knife" - not everyone is an OCD collector with 20+ knives on the shelf.
Then ideally you'd want a 3-4 inch fixed blade. If you can own two, you can get a folder as well, and things get a lot more flexible.
Me - I don't really use folders anymore, since Polish knife laws are pretty sweet, so I just carry a fixed blade. I do have a spyderco techno as my backup, because it's a lot more "cute", and a lot less scary than pulling a fixed blade from my hip.
Generally, there are 5 main knife categories to consider in my opinion: folders, small/medium/large fixed blades, and multi tools. That pretty much covers everything you could need.
>>674707
there are some small fixed blades (most notably some nech knives) that are just as convenient to carry. Matter of preference, to be sure (and local laws) but if everyone had the same ideas, the world would be boring.
>>674735
i never got how this neck knife thing works.
it's almost impossible to hide them.
people will look at you like some weird faggot.
a folder goes in the pocket perfectly concealed easy access even in winter.
i think i'm very much a belt knife guy and prefer the 4-5" blades instead of the 3".
i struggled a lot before buying the mora companion i wanted an esee 4 or 5 but in the end i decided to have a cheap ass hatchet and a cheap ass knife as they will outperform any beater at all tasks.
>>674644
A machete isn't a kitchen knife.
>>674637
Dont worry... i work for my dad at an industrial supply warehouse and we specialize in metalwork... we got tons o oil and sandpaper/belts a plenty... gonna put a convex grind on it too cause i basically got this to do medium batoning and chopping around campsites... basically using it as my main knife along with a couple smaller ones to do some fine food processing
>>674740
you can wear neck knives under your t-shirt with ease. Especially the skeleton and/or small ones - tops msk, esee izula (original, not izula 2, though I prefer the 2 as a knife in general), spartan blades enyo, other small knives like brous blades, sog snarl, rsk mini 127 - there's a bunch.
If you can get away with a 4-5 inch blade on your belt - sure. For me, a 3'' fixed is perfect for edc - not too big, not too small, full size handle, and good enough for carving sticks and food preparation outdoors.
>>674839
Not with that attitude.
>>674699
>>674735
Ok, I'm getting the sense that we can go back and forth on this forever. I'm not an enemy of opinions - I think yours is perfectly valid, but in my experience, an all in one tool is not the answer. I'd prefer to carry a multi tool, fixed blade bushcrafting knife, and a folding saw or axe in the woods, and use each for the purpose it is meant to serve. I see the appeal of an all in one tool, but it just isnt reality. What would happen if you were hammering with the flat of the blade, and it suddenly breaks or cracks? you've literally just lost all of your tools. Plus I'm sticking to what I said about "an all in one tool is ironic, since it doesnt do any of the tasks as well as the RIGHT tool." I'm glad to hear you've actually used the thing, and can speak to that, but I'm sure that if you took a good axe and split logs, then compared it to the splitting capabilities on a similar log with the TBT or something - you'd find that it just doesnt compare.
Besides. I dont think it is a stretch to tell someone "you should fish out 50 bucks for a multi tool, 50 bucks for a forest axe, and 100 for a bushcraft knife" when the price tag of a TBT is still 110 bucks more. The right tools for the right job.
Again, not trying to undermine you, I just have a different opinion. You do you, guy :)
>>674740
yeah, I think neck knives are ridiculous as well.
Not that I think this would ever happen, but it could even be a choking hazard haha.
The thing that annoys me the most though, having tried it for a while, is that no matter what you're doing, it is always getting in the way. It is constantly swinging up and whacking me, or dangling into something I'm doing.. just obnoxious.
Also on the topic, necks are not weight bearing body parts guys.
>>674877
You should probably be in decent shape then. If you're gonna be using it for chopping, it certainly excels at that above some other knives, though, you might have been better off with a camp axe or forest axe if that is all you're going to be doing with it. Though, I dont suspect that's what you meant. Good idea with the convex grind, I'm a big fan of that idea :)
>>674986
again, opinion alert, but..
in the past when I've tried out neck carrying, even tucking it under your shirt isnt enough. It still flops around and slaps you and gets in the way. I mean, is it really that big of a deal to just carry the fucking thing on your hip or in a pocket? haha. I have never really understood the neck knife phenomenon.
>>674735
forgot to address the EDC stuff
I'm not totally with you on the 3-4 inch fixed blade.. I've gotten along really well with a 4.5-5 inch fixed blade and a 3 inch folder. The 3 inch can do a lot of the carving tasks, and the 4.5-5 fixed blade can do more heavy tasks and batoning. I dont think a 3-4 inch blade is long enough to meet batoning needs. Glad to go into detail as to why, but I'd hope it would be common sense.
Wow, guess I need to move to Poland then, haha. I am obligated to do a 3 inch or less folder where I live, so that's what I carry.
Haven't looked into knives for a little while, but did some research a while ago and never ended up buying one, was deciding between an Esee 6 and a Becker BK7, but leaning towards the esee, are these still worth it? Are there any new 6-7 inch full tang blades that would be good? Any recommendations welcome really.
>>675094
I think all of the info you need is in this thread, if you read up a little further. In short, I do not think that either of those knives would be the right choice. If you are hell bent on one of those two, I'd say the esee, but I personally wouldnt carry it.
Knives bigger than 6 inches exponentially lose fine cutting abilities the bigger they get. 1095 is not my favorite steel in general, and I think both of these knives are overpriced for what you're getting. Plenty of expounding/discussion of all these points above in the thread.
I think there are better options out there for you dude. Dont settle - get the right knife. If your knife was the difference between life and death (as it would be in a real survival scenario), wouldnt you want it to be an extremely good knife? It's worth the effort to find it.
Also keep in mind that everyone has a slightly differing opinion on knives, and no one is completely right or wrong (unless you think that a 440 stainless rat tail tang rambo knife for 15 bucks is a good survival knife, because then you're extremely wrong)... so while I could spit out tons of knife recommendations, someone will disagree with me (though not as whole heartedly as if I recommended something TRULY wrong).
Hope this helps bruv
>>675098
Wow, you're a bit of an attention whore, aren't you?
>>675098
Thanks man, you're right, will read this thread properly when I get home from work
>>672479
They're hand made, so subject to human error, but are very reasonably priced. Kind of art pieces too, in that they are super traditional. Which one were you looking at?
>>673107
No.
>>673986
yeah, mora's are great :) plus the scandi grind and sandvik are nice. rat tail tang isnt great, but a great knife otherwise.
>>673992
yep, that's why it should be a backup knife.
>>674007
lansky makes sharpening rods that are pretty nice. just search amazon for sweedish fire steel. as long as the price tag is above 12 bucks you should be fine regardless of brand.. both are quite small so no trouble packing.
>>674445
>>674451
This dude is on fucking point. I second this whole heartedly. I have a delica 4 and native myself, and will definitely attest that these knives are worth it. Spyderco in general is a really good brand.
>>675076
Yeah, I did say it's far from perfect. It is possible to make a "one tool option" that does everything you need reasonably well, but there's a reason the "traditional" outdoor setup is is a big knife, a small knife, and a hatchet.
A one tool option is always "eh, whatever" - as long as you're not making furniture and don't care too much about neatness, whatever.
>>675079
>>675082
Some people like neck knives, some people don't. There is no universal answer here, and there are pros and cons to either.
>>675085
Obviously - but besides batoning larger pieces of wood (smaller are okay), 3 inches is enough for most bushcraft tasks. The reason I said 3-4 inches, is because if you are going to edc that, I generally prefer a smaller blade.
If you can get away with carrying a full size fixed blade as your edc, or if you have a second knife to edc - sure.
Then I'd say a 3'' folder and a 4-5 inch fixed blade will do 90% of everything you might ever need.
>>675079
>necks are not weight bearing body parts guys.
dunno about that in the past people carried a lot of heavy shit on their head or their back with a strap on their forehead.
your neck is really strong. but it's fucking annoying if anything dangles from it.
the only real advantage of neck knife to belt knife is it's higher up harder to get the blade wet when fording and easier to access when squatting or sitting.
one time i considered neck carry, when i had a coat on that hung over the pants and belt and really fucked with my ability to quick draw. it was a spooky night in a spooky forest. but an external tool belt is really a hundred times better just harder to improvise.
>>675114
ah, now I understand. For a fixed blade EDC knife, 3 inches does sound reasonable. I am thinking long term survival knife, in which case I would like bigger. DESU, the biggest justification for a 4.5-5 inch knife is more cutting surface (so the wear is more spread out) and batoning. Most bushcraft tasks dont require a blade of that size, but you get more bang for your buck if you do get a 4.5-5 inch knife, due to those extra perks. For an EDC knife? I dont think 3 inches would be a bad choice. My long term knife? 4.5-5 always.
>>675152
ask your doctor if necks are weight bearing body parts :)
not trying to be a dick, but what people did in the past as far as that goes is irrelevant, because modern medicine would strongly disagree.
I'd agree though that it would keep it out of water if you were wading through water, or squatting, but at least for me those minor advantages dont outweigh how annoying it is to have a knife around your neck, constantly whacking you and getting in the way. Dont let me talk you out of it, it's just my opinion. If it doesnt bother you, then go for it, I just dont understand the appeal myself.
>>675152
oh also, if we're talking about historical carry + personal experience, I would STILL disagree.
I carried a martebo sack on trip a couple years ago. I tried carrying that thing around my shoulders (aka, the strain is on the back of my neck) like a fool, and I was sore for several days. I cant imagine that is good for you.
Though, in the end this is kind of splitting hairs :P
a knife is probably not going to be enough to ruin your neck or cause pain.. just wanted to stress that necks arent meant to withstand tons of weight/strain.
>>675203
works better than you would expect.
people are still doing it to this day.
i have done it myself when my shoulders no longer could take the weight of my backpack (it had no frame and shit straps)
>>675215
an other pic, your neck is stronk
>>675203
a 3 ounce knife is hardly "tons of strain", and most are much less than that.
And if you are worried about somebody strangling you with paracord, you can use a bead chain.
Like I said - some people like it, some people don't. I find it pretty convenient innawoods, to have my small utility knife there.
>>675217
>>675227
stronk. haha :P
I guess you didnt read the whole post. >>675203
>a knife is probably not going to be enough to ruin your neck or cause pain.. just wanted to stress that necks arent meant to withstand tons of weight/strain.
I am in agreement! And I wouldnt claim to be an expert on this matter anyway - I only know what I have personally experienced. I dont like carrying a martebo sack around my neck.
The place that people should really be putting weight is on their HIPS. hips are definitely weight bearing, and they do it incredibly well. I have a backpack I could carry all day without any strain, because it distributes the weight to my hips instead of my shoulders or back. It's good shit.
I feel like, even from just looking a these pictures, that this would get stressful quick. Even if necks are stronk. There are better options.
Anyway this is getting way off topic. Knives. Yes, neck carry is a valid choice, no, I dont like it, but that doesnt mean it doesnt work for some people :)
Hey ya'll, looking for a large wilderness blade. Everything from batoning to making feather sticks, maybe a little chopping if I got to. Thinking of a Buck Hoodlum, any other knives in the price bracket I should look at instead?
>>675236
fuckhueg blade, 150 dollarydoos.
Honestly, if you wan't something that big, might as well throw in a few bucks extra and get something from HI.
Why not just get a "normal" knife? Besides chopping, there is really no advantage to having a really big blade (see everything I wrote about the tracker) - unless you want that big steel for a specific reason, just get a 5 inch blade.
>>675244
Mostly for batoning and I don't wanna carry a hatchet. And forgive me for being a retard but what is "HI"?
>>675236
Buck Hoodlum:
feathersticks - no. Too big, you're actually better off trying to make a featherstick with an axe than with this thing.. when a blade is this big it is unwieldy and hard to use to make precise cuts.
batoning - yes. This is probably something it would excel at, but you want a well rounded knife too, and this (to me) is not the answer.
Dont let me talk you out of it completely - you do you. I mean, 5160 is decent steel, it is full tang.. I just think there are better options is all.
Let me as you some questions that might help.
1. are you looking for a survival knife, or something to beat shit with in the woods?
2. why do you want it to be large? larger knives =/= better necessarily.
3. what's more important to you: rust resistance, or ability to hold an edge for a long time?
>>675244
you are so right my TBT friend.
>>675247
>are you looking for a survival knife, or something to beat shit with in the woods?
Little of both I guess, want to take it camping/hiking/shooting in the woods
>why do you want it to be large? larger knives =/= better necessarily.
batoning mostly. Where I want to start fires doesn't have a ton of right sized wood. Lots of 5-6 inch logs laying around. Just need a way to break it down
>what's more important to you: rust resistance, or ability to hold an edge for a long time?
Hold an edge for sure, I spray down my blades with ballistol after hikes and had good luck with keeping my carbon blades rust free
>>675252
Let me rephrase then. I think there's a big difference between a good survival knife, and a hunk of steel that you just want to beat shit with that will hold an edge. So, new phrasing: "survival knife or fuck shit up but wouldnt stake my life on it knife?"
You can baton just fine with a 5 inch blade, trust me, I've done it plenty. If you're trying to cut something thicker than that, you should probably use an axe anyway. Right tool for the right job. In a real survival scenario, you want to expend as little energy as you can. Axes have tons of weight behind them, and are meant for splitting things anyway. You'd save yourself time and energy by using the right tool for that job. Smaller than 4 inches? No problem with a 5 inch blade.
Great, then that eliminates a lot of stainless steels. 5160 holds an okay edge in my experience, but I think that there will be better options for you. Once I hear your answers, I'll think some more on it.
>>675255
My problem is axe is heavy for what they do for me. What 5 inch blades should I be looking at then?
>>675256
I've carried this condor axe around plenty, and it isnt too heavy.
http://www.condortk.com/productos-detalle.php?producto=76&cat=63
It would probably be just as heavy as the Buck you proposed.. and then a survival/bushcraft knife on your hip would only be another couple oz. It is made of 1060, so it will rust like a bitch, but from what you said about your maintenance, I doubt that would be an issue.
As far as a knife? Tool steel. If you're good with maintenance, and have to split the cost between an axe and a knife, you want tool steel. My favorite tool steels for bushcraft knives are 01 and D2.
>>675262
Got some knife models to check out for the 5 inches? Not super stocked about adding even more weight to my pack.
>>675263
Alright, if you dont wanna budge on that, I'll play :)
So if you absolutely have to have a 5 inch knife, that eliminates some possibilities. There are few tool steel and super steel knives that are bigger than 4.5 inches, so with your needs, we're looking more at the 1095-60 type stuff. Check out Jeff White's knives, Battlehorse knives, habilis bush tools, condor.. by no means an exhaustive list, just the things that come to mind while I'm sending this from my phone. For what you want it to do (more beating shit) you could even do a becker BK2 I guess.
If I can talk you out of .5 inches, that opens up tons more possibilities.. :)
>>675281
Well you are the one that said 5 inch knife. I just wanted some model names to check out and think about
>>675284
Correct, but when you specify a measurement as exact as "5 inches" that eliminates everything that is not 5 inches from the pool.. so naturally we're looking at only the knives that meet that criteria. Lots of super steels and tool steels just arent made to be that length, so that knocks those out. I recommended those brands because I think they are damn good knives.. I wouldnt have recommended them otherwise.
I dont have the browsing capabilities or typing capabilities right now to list off 100 models.. so just take this criteria and apply it to those brands if you want such specifics.
3/16" or thicker (for your chopping/batoning desires)
convex or scandi grind (or something similar)
>>675284
If you'll sacrifice .5 inches, I'm currently using a 4.5 inch benchmade s30v knife called the "bushcrafter 162" that I like a lot. The only complaint I have is that the handle kinda sucks (not fit for my hand). I've had it for a couple trips, and it may become my favorite knife if it holds up as it has been. Glad to expound on this if you're interested in a full review haha. It's just the knife I'm most excited about rn
>>675245
Himalayan Imports. Sorry for assuming you knew - it gets mentioned here, but not all the time. For chopping, it's hard to beat a forward-weighted kukri.
the 1990 survival knife design (big, clunky, 1/4'' thick, every tool you could possibly need all at once), of which the tom brown tracker is one of the most extreme examples is fortunately giving way to more sensible designs 1/8'' or 5/32'' thick, 4-5 inch blades. Honestly, there is no special, "survival" property to a knife (unless you count those retarded things like the rocky mountain knife - see above). If I absolutely had to split the world between survival knives and the rest, I'd just say that the "survival" knives are more of a general purpose design. You get that jack of all trades, master of none vibe, but not too much - just avoid overspecialisation, like fillet knives, etc. You're not making furniture, after all, so it (whatever you're doing, not the knife) doesn't have to be pretty, and anyway - most good bushcraft knives do excell at bushcraft, just don't go prying with them or any other shit hollywood tells you to do.
>>675284
not him, but most bushcraft knives are between 4 and 5 inches long. What >>675281 said about brands, and also LT Wright (he and battle horse used to be part of blind horse knives together before they split, so their designs are quite similar, and if you can find the old blind horse stuff it's good as well). Then there's ESEE, TOPS (some of their models at least, B.O.B. fieldcraft knife comes to mind).
If Alone is any recommendation for you, the winner (Alan) used a Condor kukri, and as far as I remember, there was a BK2, an LT wright Genesis, Jacklore something something, and a couple of others as well.
>>675300
yep, Polish friend is right. And he's right about LT Wright as well I'm sure, though I dont own any of his since the split. I actually only own blind horse knives (from before the split) from that batch, but I'm sure battle horse and LT wright are just as good since they're cut from the same cloth (which is why I had no problem just recommending battle horse without owning one).
esee and tops are pretty popular, but not my favorite. I have an esee 3 I got a lonnnng time ago, and (opinion alert) I just dont really love it. It has become a beater knife, because I know I have better ones that do everything it can do, but better. Just my unsolicited 2 cents :P
But I wouldnt say esee and tops arent good choices too, because they are.. I just prefer others.
incidentally, i usually dont like benchmade all that much either, yet I just half recommended a benchmade - some evidence that I'm not trying to be bias or anything, just follow what performs well.
>>675306
I have a BM that I like a lot - that bone collector. It's discontinued, and the current option is an s30v version - a friend of mine has one and is very happy with it.
Not sure how I feel about the Sibert (that Benchmade 162 is a Sibert design) - seems solid but the handle looks too chunky - I haven't got my grubby mits on one, so can't say more than that.
>>675247
You're retarded, people use the hoodlum and knives bigger than it for feather sticks all the time
>>675324
Havent heard of it, but I just looked it up.. yeah, looks like it would make a good skinning knife :)
right, and that's my complaint too. I think one of these days I will take it to the bench grinder and shape it better. It isnt a perfect knife by any stretch, but so far I like it pretty well. Anyway, any of those other brands that I mentioned (and the additions from Polish friend) would be awesome options too.
>>675329
cool story. PS, you can make a featherstick with a felling axe too, because it is easy. Friend wanted to know if it would be GOOD for feather sticks, in which case I stand by what I said. Theres tons of extra metal (and therefore weight) that makes the process more annoying, inaccurate, and unwieldy. If you disagree, please take a video of yourself carving a featherstick with a 3 inch knife and with a 10 inch knife and we'll see which fairs better. Additionally, when you make a featherstick, you want maximum surface area, which = thinnest slivers you can do. Good luck being accurate enough to do thin slivers.
This was also an elaboration of my opinion on fine carving tasks with a large blade. Try carving a spoon or a bowl in a long term survival scenario with a 10 inch knife... I can promise it will be both hilarious to watch and utterly enraging to perform.
>>675324
oh neat, I found an 01 knife that is 5 inches from battle horse.
http://store.battlehorseknives.com/Highlander-H1-Saber-Grind-6-Sheath_p_584.html
It looks like it is beyond your price range though, which sucks. Anyway, this is a downright survival knife. I am still kinda getting the impression that you just want to fuck shit up.. in which case get a becker bk2 or some shit :P
>>674462
>>674472
>>674479
>>674481
Some good and some bad here. 440A is an excellent alloy as far as percentages of carbon and chromium go, but it's finicky as hell with regard to hardening and tempering, so most cheap 440A knives suck. 440B and 440C have more chromium and more carbon and aren't as finicky, so you have better odds of getting a decent hardness and temper with a less expensive knife. Any of the three will make a damn good knife that will resist corrosion well if they're done properly.
Chromium increases stain resistance as its percentage increases, but it also increases brittleness at any given hardness. Knives that are made of 440A, D2, 420HC, 10xx series steel will all be less brittle than 440C at the same hardness if tempered correctly.
440A has 1.5 to 2 times the carbon of 420HC, more manganese, and about 2% more chromium. 440A also has molybdenum, which 420HC lacks. 440A will get harder and hold an edge better than 420HC, assuming both heat treatments being done properly.
So the question becomes: How much do you value edge retention compared to toughness compared to how fine an edge you can produce compared to corrosion resistance? Find the alloy that fits your needs and get it from someone who will have made the knife right. If you're unsure about a knife steel, look it up. See what's in it, find out what those alloying elements do to the steel in what proportion. Short, somewhat overly simplified list:
>carbon: allows steel to harden
>chromium: increases stain resistance, brittleness
>vanadium: produces smaller grain size, allowing a finer edge
>molybdenum: improves hardenability, reduces brittleness at any given hardness
>magnesium: improves impact resistance, thus increasing toughness
>>675247
buck hoodllum is the worst for batoning almost guaranteed to break the blade because the retards at buck put that fucking notch on the back before the tempering and makes the steel extremely brittle at that point also a huge weakness cause lots of steel is removed.
basically it's a trap.
>>675375
>420HC
>more like
>420THC ayyyyyyy
>>674629
Would of been better to carry a small knife like an izula 2, team that up with like a 13 inch hatchet.
What fixed blade knife do you recommend to a poorfag?
Budget is 50€.
>>675995
Why not an Ontario Rat 3/5/7 depending on the size you want. Those look nice. I don't even remember exactly how much they are, but they aren't too expensive.
I was looking and those and the Esse knives for a nice fixed around the same price range.
>>675995
>>676006
Ehh, looking at it again, those might be slightly above your budget. I thought it was 50£ at first, which would be closer to $75(USD).
There is the Esee Izula and Izula 2. I have been eying one of those for awhile. They are right around $40-$50 and there are a bunch of options for the handle. There is also the KaBar EsKabar which is really similar to the Izula.
Or lots of CRKT stuff will probably be in thay price range. Kershaw too.
But I don't know shit. Most of this is just observation from what other people seen to like. I haven't been disappointed with the couple CRKTs and the Kershaw I own. Still love that CRKT SPEW.
>>676009
It helps, I know shit about fixed blade knives.
Thanks.
>>676009
eskabar is a collaboration. Izula 1 handle, with a clip point blade.
Of the two (Izula, and Izula 2) I'll always recommend the Izula 2 (unless it's above your budget, obviously), since it has a half inch longer handle, and full micarta scales, that you can remove if you want a skeleton, but the optional micarta scales for the izula 1 are not full, and a beefier handle makes a big difference.
You can also try the condor bushlore/mini bushlore - really solid, if not as flashy as the higher end ones. Obviously you get lower end materials - 1075 steel and some unnamed wood handles, but decent performer nontheless.
>>676043
Are the Izula 1 and 2 made out of the same steel? I was looking at them on eBay, and I thought the Izula 2 was a better steel. But the descriptions on eBay were all over. I saw Izula 1s that were claimed to be made from carbon steel, I thought they were all AUS8 or something stainless. Unless they are offered in different metals.
I thought the Eskabar was cool just because it is a little different but you could still use any of the Izula scales. But I really want a lime green Izula 1.
Current collection. Just added the Spyderco Native 5.
>>676055
What's the model of that benchmade with the hole in the blade in the lower righthand area?
>>676061
745, Mini Dejavoo
The only Benchmade I've liked enough to spend good money on.
>>676055
Damn. That's too much. Exactly why I haven't bought that green Izula yet. I don't want a collection like that where I will rarely even use 90% of them. They really are tools though, not some $600 collector's knife.
I still want a green Izula, but I don't need another fixed blade. Although if I ever see one of those cheaper Ontario folders somewhere for like $30, I will probably grab it just to have a halfway decent folder. After I bought that big CRKT Dragon, I told myself no more knives for a bit.
>>672274
That's kinda neat
>>676055
How are you liking that Native 5?
I'm thinking about getting one myself, but in that new blue/purple G10.
>>676054
no, they are both made from 1095, have exactly the same blade. The izula 2 just has a 1/2 inch more handle, and comes with full micarta scales, while the izula 1 comes without scales, but you can buy partial scales for it (that don't cover the lanyard hole).
There is also a 440c stainless version of the Izula 1.
i have a usmc kabar, how good is this blade for survival/camping?
>>676393
not great. For camping, if you're not going to do much more than food prep, and maybe carving some sticks, it should do fine, but their tangs are notoriously weak.
Pic related is my most recent purchase. I'm very surprised by how well done it is, it easily beats mallninja blades in terms of quality up to 30 dollars and this was less than 10.
It's a grand edc and one day hiker knife imho, would recommend it to anyone who likes more traditional blades.
>>676054
Be careful of buying an Izula on ebay. Those are the most faked ESEE knives.
ESEE has a page on their site that helps spot fakes because of how often it happens.
http://www.eseeknives.com/fake-esee.htm
>>674412
That's pretty much all of Eastern Europe, but you're right, Poland is the best country here.
>>676447
Cheap
Lightt
Easily sharpened (to razor edge)
Perfect fine-task/backup blade.
Pic related is mine, had it about 15 years now.
>>676009
KaBar EsKabar is the one that fits better my budget, but I get fucked with import taxes.
Any good place to order one on EU?
>>676498
Could you link me a good sharpening tutorial?
I must be doing something wrong because I can get my Opinel sharp, but not REAL sharp, and I tend to let the edge looking rusty.
>>676447
I also recommend Opinels. The steel is good and the blade shape is very practical.
>mallninja
Using that word makes you worse than the people you're referring to.
>traditional blades
It's a fucking knife blade and you make it sound like something outdated. If you like the blade shape, don't think Opinel has the monopoly.
>>676512
What are you sharpening with? I use ceramic / diamond rods at about 20 degree and finish on DIY strop. Blade stock is so thin it takes no time to get sharp.
>>676521
That could be the issue, I'm using a cheap whetstone.
Now that I think about, I remember seeing my father sharpening an Opinel with sandpaper.
I'd apreciate if you could recommend me some entry level setup since I'm fairly new when it comes to this.
Opinions on this?
I fell in love with the looks and I don't need a knife for heavy duties on a daily basis.
>>676520
I know it's 4chan, but I think you're being a little bit too agressive considering the topic I was talking about.
I don't know whats the problem with mallninja, I think it describes the items and their 'culture' I was referring to perfectly.
And also you clearly misunderstood the term 'traditional', I surely didn't mean outdated, it's simply refreshing to see a product that has been unchanged (more or less) for almost a century. My grandfather's Opinel looks exactly the same. It's plain, inexpensive and reliable. That's what I meant by traditional.
>>676529
I'm sorry I came out that way. There's a reason why some blade designs haven't changed for centuries, they work.
The problem is, some of my favourite knives have been described as 'mall ninja knives' and I don't like it. This is done by people who know nothing about knives and it just makes me mad.
Plain, inexpensive and reliable, now that is something I like. That's why I recommended Opinel.
>>676526
I love it, but it doesn't have a lock.
>>676537
Well yeah, I too met several people who disregard every knives with as much as a plastic handle and call them mallninja and tacticool. Im glad we came to a conclusion in the end.
>>676456
Are Lithuania, Estonia and Letônia like that in terms of knife laws? The problem with those countries is that they're really small... and as far as I know they are accepting rapefugees.
>>676597
I don't know about Baltic countries but I guess so.
And each country accepts refugees, but its not a major problem outside of Western Europe. I live in a city that had a refugee camp with 4.000 people (they closed it a few months ago) and I saw maybe 10 refugees whole last year.
Just realized I posted in the old thread.
I roughed out my first knife blank last night. I think it turned out alright. The ring finger slot thing is a little small, so I'll fix that. I probably should have gone for a less complex handle for my first knife, but whatever. R8 my knife blank, sc/outs/.
>>676626
Yup, it looks like it sure could be a knife with some work.
>>676626
Looks proper, what will be the handle?
>>676613
where do you live? Hungary?
>>676626
Do you know what you're doing? I want to put mycarte handles on my knife but get tired of watching YouTube videos
>>676649
The proud city of Debrecen. I know it's a shithole, but at least its a good shithole.
>>676626
blade looks fine, the handle looks way overdone. I'm a big fan of the broomstick handle (see ltwk genesis) - super comfortable.
>>674425
Are you an idjit?
>>676524
I use a cheap dual grit stone from Canadian tire (was around $10 i believe) and and old belt, and can get a knife sharp enough to shave with. Just use rough side,then smooth side, then use the back of the flat leather belt as a strop.
The thing that takes a while to learn it how to hold an angle. What i did was just practiced on an old knife. Get it sharp, dull it. Rinse, repeat.
I've heard people when learning will take perminant marker and draw on the edge. This way you can see where the stone is taking metal from. Be aware though, I'm not sure what marker will do to your stones.
There is also the lansky system. It's not too expensive and is literally foolproof. I'll use it if I'm looking to get an exact angle.
>>676664
>Debrecen
Based Magyar. You guys have someone solid in charge of your country but desu you're in one fucked up place geographically speaking, too many borders there. When weather starts to become more travel friendly, there will be tons and tons of more people arriving there. For example, my country don't have refugee camps for now, we will only be receiving ~5000 part of UE quota system, but these number will get bigger as the time passes and more people arrive at European soil.
>>676054
Size comparison
>>676385
>How are you liking that Native 5?
For the price I don't think it can be beat. S35VN steel is the tits. The grip texture is perfect and shape of everything is perfect, especially the blade geometry for slicing things like cardboard. Nothing to snag or slow it down. The handle can be held two ways, but probably caters to smaller/medium hands to be comfortable without using the front finger choil. That finger choil sold me on the knife. Combined with the blade shape and that fine edge it really allows you to do some detailed accurate work.
Mine came stiff as fuck and I'm trying to break it in right now. I've taken it apart and oiled it with good stuff but it's a slow process. I don't know why because all the contact edges are a mirror polish already. My $40 Tenacious is smoother in deployment. Maybe its the lack of washers in it?
The pocket clip is good and secure, but a little rough on my pant pockets for EDC. I'm going to have to buff up the edge a bit or else it will tear up my nice jeans. Other than that I don't like the finish of the blade. It shows smudges like a bitch and takes a long time to clean up. Yeah I'm splitting hairs at this point. It does the important stuff more that right for the price, and it's making me think about getting a Paramilitary 2 instead of an Emerson Endeavor as my next nice knife.
>>676629
I'm glad it looks like a knife. Thanks for validating me senpai.
>>676647
Thanks. I had initially been thinking micarta or g10, but for a first knife it may just be best to go with a wood from a local shop since apparently those laminates are a little more difficult when gluing. Might go get a nice piece of ebony, but I'm not sure how expensive that stuff gets.
>>676657
Not really, this is my first knife. I've watched a lot of YouTube videos myself though. I found Trollsky and Walter Sorrells to be the most helpful videos. If anyone knows some other good videos, please post!
>>676695
Yeah I kinda regret it now lol. I tried to mimic the cold steel ak-47, which fits my hand like a glove. I should have gone simpler, but hey I was expecting mistakes on my first knife. Got too confident! It's not too late though, we'll see. Thanks for the feedback.
>>676447
Mein negro.
What would be a good knife to fight off a bear or a wolf with?
Sword is fine too, if it is light
What does /out/ think about the sharpness of a knife? Should it be so sharp that just touching breaks your skin? This knife would not be for regular use, just combat situations and when you have no other knife.
>>676448
Kinda strange to fake a $40 knife. I believe it happens tho. On eBay, however, when I was searching for Izulas, almost all of them were right around the same price. $40 for just the knife, or like $50 with the whole kit for the handle. So no deals that were too good to be true. It would suck to pay like full retail and get a fake.
There is a gun and knife show going on this weekend. I kinda wanted to go just to look around. Not sure yet. I need to get a FOID card.
>>676510
That's shitty. The Izula is right about the same price. What are some websites that you can buy from without getting taxed? What about your eBay?
>>677031
Checked eBay, amazon, some knife sellers as well, cheapest Izula I can find is 85€.
>>676447
>>677022
>>676498
10 years old, stills going strong.
>>677035
Damn, must be dat Yuro tax.
There's gotta be something similar from a European knifemaker. I can't even remember what you were originally looking for, but as a smaller EDC fixed blade that isn't overpriced, I like this CRKT. They go for around $35 here. It's nice and compact, the sheath holds it horizontally on my belt and I don't even notice it's there. I'm no knife expert, all I'm saying is I really like it so far and haven't had any issues.
It's nice because a lot of knives that sit vertically on your belt can really dig into your side when sitting or moving around.
>>677037
I was looking for something for general /out/ stuff, I don't carry a knife on a daily basis.
>>677048
Can you get Kershaws without paying a ridiculous tax?
This is what I own as far as fixed blades, and the two larger ones I got for really cheap because both were discontinued models. Top one is a CRKT C/K Dragon that was around $28. Middle one is the Kershaw Antelope Hunter which is all over eBay for $15-$20. And bottom one is that SPEW, which I paid full price for but was only $35.
That middle one, the Antelope Hunter, even with taxes you should be able to get it for cheap. It's not a bad knife. The handle has some grip to it, but not quite rubber. It also comes in black. It's a decent size too and comes with a leather sheath.
There is also Morakniv...
>>677064
15-20$ translates to 43€ here, gotta love this fucking shithole of country.
Thanks for your help anyway, I guess I can take a look at local stores to see if anything catches my eye.
>>677074
Hey, 43€ is still under budget!
Where do you live? Do they tax absoultely everything that gets shipped there?
>>677083
Spain.
I don't know about general life stuff but every single time I want to get something online I get jewed.
