Puma bowie
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i just got a puma bowie, I got the stainless steel version it was $100.00. Suprisingly not too much info on it online despite its popularity. What are y'all's thoughts on it? Pics and stories if you have them. Thanks for any help
I got one last year. It broke the first time I tried to use it.
>>652689
The information panflet is probably in Chinese
$100 stainless steel knife?
>>652851
>>652689
It's a hunting knife. Puma makes fantastic hunting knives, as such most are hollow ground and stainless. Honestly, I'd never buy one as I'm not much of collector, but what you have is more of a moose/bison prepping knife, not something to chop wood with.
It essentially replaced the butcher knife or Hudson Bay style blade as the longhunter or mountain man's knife of choice, for both hunting and defense. Not being a fudd, just saying what the blade is designed for. Or to scalp redskins.
Cool blade OP, I wouldn't sell it, especially if it's really German made.
>>652689
>>652917
>>652827
To add onto what I just said, it's hollow ground and stainless. Great for food prep, skinning, gutting, scalping redskins, slicing bandits' noses off, stabbing Mexicans, boar, etc. But the blade geametry is simply not designed for stabbing trees or chopping wood. You could probably get a way with it for a little, but it'd be a waste of good German steel and money in my opinion.
It will chip if you hit rocks because of its grind, it's tip bend if stabbed into a tree too many times, etc. But you can put some mean boar down with it and really slice the haunches from larger game.
Op here. I'm gonna be living on a homestead for about 6 months and I need aknife that'll do it all, is the puma a good choice?
>>652851
There are plenty of good stainless steels, dumbass
>>652689
That's a fine knife. $100 was cheap. My thought about that knife is that I like it and if you like it too, you don't need any help. As for being stainless, 440C is not that bad. The weak point is where the finger guard is, so don't baton it too hard.
>>653010
Just a few off the top of my head:
D2
S30V
154CM
CMP3V
ATS34
VG1
Lower tier (ofc still can be good depending on design and heat treat)
420
440HC
GIN1
It's not that it doesn't hold an edge well, its' that comparatively it doesn't hold an edge AS well as carbon steel.
Saying that some of the stainless steels have great characteristics. I had a blade in CPM-3V and it was AMAZING - apart from it was so tough/hard it was almost impossible to sharpen.
>>653014
Wouldn't baton that knife at all that's not what its designed for. Especially as it has a hollow grind.
>>653024
>Wouldn't baton that knife at all that's not what its designed for. Especially as it has a hollow grind.
You can baton every proper non-folding knife there is. It's true that a hollow grind makes a blade very thin and weak near the edge, but you can definitely baton hollow grinded knives as long as you have some common sense.
>I'm not an expert. I've never heard of ATS34 or GIN1.
>>653031
Yeah you can baton any knife, you can even baton a folding knife. But why would you want to? If you're splitting wood get pic related.
>>653037
You're absolutely right. I was referring to a situation when you only have your knife, whatever knife it is. I have tried batoning with a cheap chinese hollow grinded knife and it works.
>How do you make a handle for a drill bit like in your pic? What prevents the handle from slipping? How does it take a hold of the drill bit?
>>653047
Sorry the pic was to suggest an axe not an auger.
Basically what I was meaning was if you need to split wood you bring the right tool for the job, whatever it is (sharpened crowbar style knife like a Becker, axe, wedges and a maul, hatchet)
It's only in the last few years it's become common place to baton your knife and to consider its 'batonability' as an important factor. It's practically meme tier at this point. It's perfectly possible to start a fire without batoning wood.
And FWIW if I were in a survival situation I'd be even LESS likely to baton my knife. Risk of catastrophic failure, risk of damage to edge, not worth it IMO.
>if I were in a survival situation I'd be even LESS likely to baton my knife.
Unless you have no options.
>Risk of catastrophic failure, risk of damage to edge, not worth it IMO.
How about the risk of dying? If you really need to do something to save your life (like splitting wood to make a fire), why worry about the knife breaking? The other option is that you die and you'r knife survives. You see what I mean?
>>653056
Uhh because I don't need to baton wood to start a fire?
So you've batoned some wood, and your knife breaks / you roll your edge / whatever, now you can no longer make feather sticks, so no fire. That's a worse situation IMO.
>>653056
Where is this forest where all the wood is 3 inches thick or thicker? Being able to split is nice, but rarely if ever really necissary.
Got one from the 30-40s handed down to me. Pretty nice knife, still holds a razor sharp edge.
Op here. No one really answered my question lol hate to sound like a dick but would this knife be good for all around usage on a homestead/ farm where I'll be working 11-12 hours a day?
>>653156
What would you be using the knife for? It's blade geometry is designed for preparing game and killing Indians. Could chop some light brush just fine, maybe some branches or some feathering. Could baton a few pieces of wood, but I'd avoid doing that.
Just general edc stuff. Probably a lot of choping small brush. A lot of the job is going to be logging around a nature preserve called turtle island. I previously was using a large cold steel espada but I wanted a reliable fixed blade knife. Cutting through rope and food prep are also a large usage
In that case the knife will serve you well. Puma heat treats their 440C well, almost 60 Rockwell. Might take a while to hone, but should hold a good edge.
Honestly their 440C is better than other companies better steel's from what I've seen, but I've only use my old "Hunter's Friend" for apples, cheese, deer, and twine. Only had to hone it once in a while.
Oh, also btw this should probably be in Knife General, but what ever. Enjoy your knife OP, your grand kids will thank you.
i think the one I got was made out of 440a. Is that still any good?
>>653024
What gets me is the poor reputation 440 steels have. It's cheap because it's common, so low-end cutlers use a lot of it. 440A is a spectacularly good alloy if it's heat-treated properly, but nobody who sells a knife cheap is likely to have taken the time to do so. 440C is like that, but to a lesser extent.
>>653165
50/50 chance. It'll be great or shit, not much in between. If they made it right, it'll be a very good knife. If they didn't, it'll be either too soft to hold a good edge or to brittle to push it much.
>>653047
Those auger bits have triangular or hexagonal heads. Use hardwood, cut a tight hole, jam it in.
>I love to jam it in a tight hole.
>>653158
What the hell do you want a big pig sticker lime that for logging?
I carry a puuko when Im in the bush.
Nah get a few mora knives.
>>653273
Oh definitely. A good heat treat is crucial!
>>653301
Yeah I'm with you here, not the knife I'd pick either.
- Unnecessarily long. 3-4'' is about right IMO
- Large ricasso and no choil. Less leverage on cuts without the ability to choke up on the blade
- hollow grind. Much prefer a convex or scandi
>>653304
A mora is basically a simplified modern puukko, dude. Form is almost exactly the same.
>>653458
>3-4'' is about right IMO
I tend to lean toward the feel of the knife here. The knife has to feel good in your hand or it won't be as natural for you to use. It seems my favorites are all around 5" long, but I do use the first couple of inches the most if I'm not using it when cooking.
Pumas are fine. Harder than average steel- you CAN chip one if you drop it on a garage floor. Since they're harder they're harder to sharpen, but I like my "White Hunter" which is just a slightly larger, more skinning style blade.
I was camping with the boy scouts in the 70's and my dad forgot the can opener. No problem, he just stabbed around the edge of the can with his white hunter, using a piece of wood to drive the point through. It worked fine.
Pumas seem to have come down in price over the last few years- I remember them being in the $200+ range, but I found my White Hunter for less online.
Op here. Just cancelled my order for the stainless steel version and the high carbon one. I get it tomorrow and I'm excited
>>654475
Top laff m8 u can do the same with a kitchen knife
>>652920
> But the blade geametry is simply not designed for stabbing trees or chopping wood.
> It will chip if you hit rocks because of its grind, it's tip bend if stabbed into a tree too many times, etc.
