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Knife advice
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You are currently reading a thread in /out/ - Outdoors

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A few questions, really I suppose. First off, what are the main things you look for in a knife you'll take with you on a hike? Secondly, why do you guys hate partially serrated blades so much? Just because it cant do a full sawing motion as smoothly? Thirdly, do you guys prefer to have a go-to blade that will last you a long time, or does it make more sense to buy knives to beat and throw out (moras)? Maybe I'm wrong about moraknivs, though. If I am, please, correct me.
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For a belt type knife that could be used as a one tool option:

#1 5-6 inches long, so you can work with natural materials ~ 4 inches wide. A longer blade than that is typically unweildly for finer work
#2 High carbon steel so I can strike it with natural materials to start a fire. Stainless steel is acceptable if corrosion will be a big problem.
#3 90 degree spine so I can use it as a scraping tool, especially useful for using a ferrocerium rod.
#4 Minimum of 3.175 mm thick, for robustness and maximum tool usage
#5 Full tang. The weight savings are not worth it for a one tool option. Increases strength of the knife and easier to replace handle scales if broken.
#6 Plain edge, no serrations. Plain edge is more useful and easier to maintain.
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>>640435
I carry a folder with a half serrated blade and tonto tip on me regardless of whether I'm out or not for general cutting/utility, a military knife without serration on my shoulder strap when I'm out for minor wood processing, and a fishing knife when I'm out at the lake. So I may have as many as three, for different purposes.

There really isn't one knife that will do everything you want. If there was, there'd only be one knife in stores.
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>>640444
also forgot no cross guard. a single guard on the blade side is acceptable but a guard on the spine side serves no purpose outside of melee combat and will only get in your way as you use it as a tool and not a weapon.
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>>640435
Honestly nothing wrong with a mora provided you're not planning on batoning with one since they aren't full tang. The steel is of good quality though; easy to sharpen and holds an edge. The blade is relatively thin so it slices through material pretty easily. As long as you're using it as a medium/light work knife, you can't beat the price.
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>>640435

Hi OP. I recently decided to get myself an ESEE 4 or 5 ( link below ) after a conversation I had with AdolfCritler ( link below ) regarding a good knife to throw into a get-home bag. In my case I went with the ESEE because it could baton, has a drop-point ( drop-points are versatile ) and, thanks to him introducing me to BladeHQ, which is going to save me $50-ish, I found it was affordable. What I ideally wanted in my knife was something that could help me get home in a survival situation like my car running down a slope/running out of gas. A secondary positive is I'll have a new knife to take camping and I look forward to putting it through some paces.

http://www.eseeknives.com/

>>639658

>>639658
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>>640668

Whoops, I posted the thread twice. The link to the knives is http://www.eseeknives.com/
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>>640444
>4 inches wide
nigga what? a 4 inches wide knife is a butchers cleaver
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>>640435
>First off, what are the main things you look for in a knife
almost all survival instructors out there agree on the specifications for this
5"; hc blade; full tang; 90 deg spine; uncoated
my two cents are hc is autism, full tang is overrated because statistically the overwhelmingly most likely point of failure for a knife is the blade near the tip and near the handle. if you break off the tip you can still use the knife no worries, if it breaks clean off then you can shove the full tang up your ass. the 90 deg is a valid point tho but you can do that yourself with a file no need to pay extra. uncoated is again just a matter of sandpaper in my opinion.
>Secondly, why do you guys hate partially serrated blades so much?
a bitch to sharpen, also messes with fine work, usually the most used part of a blade is sacrificed which is simply not worth it.
>Thirdly, do you guys prefer to have a go-to blade that will last you a long time, or does it make more sense to buy knives to beat and throw out (moras)?
don't see why not both? i wouldn't skip on a handy smaller knife for preparing food, eating and whittling and fine work in favor of an indestructible pricey 6incher.
>>640444
5-6 inches is kind of an overkill tho 4-5 is more like it. many people out there make do with 3 inchers i have a backup 3 inch edc folder too and a 4 inch fix blade. i usually carry a hatchet or a sawback machete in the pack also so there is that.
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Keeping on the topic of knives/advice can anybody let me know how to fix up an old beater? I've got a buddy who is giving me his ( was an expensive knife when he bought it ) because he just got a new EDC. The edge isn't all that sharp anymore, the blade is uncoated and it may need to be taken apart and checked too. The knife is also a folder and I have no experience with folders.
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>>642771
>beater
>folder
whut?
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>>642790
"Beater" usually refers to a cheap knife for every-day use; maybe you take it to work and use it to pry things or cut things frequently.

"Folder" meaning a knife that folds; think the Buck 110. The blade folds into the handle.
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>>642771
Any pics of the knife? Aside from needing to be sharpened are there any issues with the knife that you're concerned with?
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>>640435
1. A functional knife.
2. Serrations are a bitch to sharpen and pointless for the little surface area you're trying to saw with.
3. That, and #2
4. That would depend on you. Mora can last you a long while if you don't destroy them needlessly. There is no magic 1 size fits all.
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>>642880
None yet as I've not received it yet. I do know what it looks like assuming the condition hasn't changed since I saw it earlier this year. I was just told the blade had blunted but don't know much about caring for blades. Would it help if I posted a pic of it when ( or if, but I was told I'd be getting it. ) when I take possession of it?
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>>643034
>blade blunted
>let's get rid of it
wtf unless it's super soft steel you just got to sharpen it and spray it with wd40
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>>643034
>Would it help if I posted a pic of it when ( or if, but I was told I'd be getting it. ) when I take possession of it?
Yes
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>>643034
OP, I would advise you not use your name on this site anymore and doubly since you HAVE already, don't post your state. Some people aren't very nice here.
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>>643235
It isn't my name; I know better than that. My I.D. is a pun for "mystery man" and I'm using it simply so I can easily find things I've posted. Thank you for your concern tho, Anon.
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>>640749
>4 inches wide knife
You should take remedial reading comprehension. Here's why:
>>640444
>5-6 inches long, so you can work with natural materials ~ 4 inches wide.
...so you can work with natural materials ~ 4 inches wide.
Natural materials ~ 4 inches wide.
Materials. Not knife.
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>>640435
One that lets you do flipity-doos
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>>642802
I believe he's referring to how odd it would be to use a folder knife as your beater.
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>>643433
Flipity-doos are very important.
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>>643433
these are illegal to carry in my country for unknown reasons. i mean they are not more dangerous than a fixed blade not one bit.
i guess the lawmakers decided only useless punks would carry one.
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>>645241
it is because too many people cut their own fingers
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>>645582
dunno man they are banned under the "objects especially dangerous to the public" article... if something poses danger to an attacker that wouldn't be listed there.
Thread replies: 26
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