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How do you choose an engine oil? Is it just a case of "more
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How do you choose an engine oil? Is it just a case of "more expensive is better"?

Also, thoughts on magnetic oil? Pic related.
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>>15256033
I use Fuchs or Penrite oil of the recommended viscosity. No reason for brand loyalty. I just know they exceed SAE etc. so that's all I need.
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>magnetic oil
>the very things that need to be lubricated during start aren't magnetic(bearings)

how the fuck is this expected to work?
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>>15256043
I'm running it for the first time right now, will post blackstone report in a few weeks.
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>>15256033
Magnatec is pretty legit, i use it on my xt forester because of high miles. But i use penrite in my race car because ive seen some very good before and after track composition tests
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Magnatec sucks big iron cock. It is literally pleb oil, marketed as good oil, so plebs with slightly more money will buy it.
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>People unironically prefer scamsoil over based Royal Purple.
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>not using pure concentrated german SWAG
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>>15256293
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>>15256127

>zinc fortified

Into the trash it goes.


>>15256033

Check your manual and the internets for what's recommended.
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Cant really go wrong here.
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>No mention of Redline
>Amsoil
>Or Motul
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>>15257327
see>>15256127
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>>15257349
Ah, I missed that.
>Amsoil
>Scam
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>>15256033
I use Castrol gtx high mileage in my dad's Ranger and my civic. 223k and 173k miles respectively. Synthetic blend.
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>>15256043
well the bearings are not magnetic, but most shafts are
so...
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>>15256043
The oil uses magnetic particles to adhere better to critical surfaces.
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>>15257457
No it doesn't you gimp. It's called marketing. And you are the lowest common denominator they are marketing it to.
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bobistheoilguy.com for oil research

PQIA for virgin oil analysis

pennzoil is the best thing out there on the market, low volatility and tons of anti wear additive (molybendum)

pic related
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>>15256033
>How do you choose an engine oil? Is it just a case of "more expensive is better"?
Mobil-1 0W-40 Euro formula because it meets MB Spec 229.5, and I can get it at Wal-Mart for about $24/5 qt.
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My Jeep like the 10w40 Diesel mobil oil, no synthetic,
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>>15256033
>How do you choose an engine oil?
Look up the past oil threads that appeared in /o/ as the advice and questions were all in there already. It's too bad the thread spammers and trollers make lots of stupid threads to shove informative threads off /o/.
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In my families and my own daily drivers I use supertech from walmart. can't beat $2 a quart.

valvoline vr-1 and torco gear/trans oil in my street/track car.
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Clean cheap oil is going to do a better job at lubrication than expensive dirty oil. Depends how many fucks you give about your vehicle. I wouldn't go putting dollar store oil in a brand new car that's for sure.

On a side note...

What's with people putting diesel oil like rotella in their gas engines? Does it really work better, or???
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Rotella 15w-40
I use it in everything
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>>15256033
engine oil?
motul or liquid moly
/thread
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>>15259724
The additive package is better for older engines with flat tappets. If you have roller lifters then you don't need to worry.
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>>15259724
I can't for sure tell you the pros/cons of diesel oil in a petrol engine but...
My Dodge truck had a valvetrain tick, I did an oil change with 20w-50 and it quit.
My Lexus consumed about 2.5 quarts of oil a week, I started using 15w-40 and it only uses about 1/2 a quart a week now.

It's only anecdotal but take with that what you will
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>>15259896
>only uses about 1/2 a quart a week now.
holy fuck dude
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>>15259896
>engine burns huge amount of oil
>giving others advice
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>>15256033
>How do you choose an engine oil? Is it just a case of "more expensive is better"?

5 quart jugs of synthetic oil are cheap at wal-mart. Mobil1 FullSynth is $22.97 at my local store this past week. So, there was the guy that paid $2.xx per quart of SuperTech (wal-mart's plush house brand) conventional oil which makes it $10 per jug, but the SuperTech Full Synthetic is $17 per jug. I think for the $7 more, he would have had a great deal.

.

The archived engine oil thread for conventional versus synthetic oil is at:

https://archive.4plebs.org/o/thread/14985876/

.

One has to pay attention to how oil is used in your engine too. For example, some engines have a lot of start and stops because they are either hybrid or ECO type engines. You will want not just an oil that is good with a lot of start/stop activity, but a filter that withstands constant pressure spikes. If you use a regular filter (purolator or low end fram), they may have tears. Purolator had been getting that problem lately. Fram Ultra filters have a metal mesh surrounding the filter and that mesh even goes into the pleats with the filter media. The mesh seems to prevent tear and blow through from pressure spikes especially from ECO engines that were stopped at a traffic light, but the driver has just gunned the engine. At that moment, not only did the ECO engine just start, but it is also accelerating hard due to the driver having a jackrabbit start.

Picture: Seeing a foamy beer mug on a car makes me feel like the occupant drinks and drives (at the same time). Do you 5W20 Amsoil? No, 16-proof Asahi desu.
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>>15259724
I've been using Mobile 1 Delvac full synth 0w-40 diesel in a Ford 4.0 gas for years now. Started at 40,000km now at 200,000. no issues.
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>>15259333
based trips
I had bought a quart of pennzoil platinum for like 25.50 at wallyworld a couple weeks ago, and was curious as to if it was any good.
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>>15259896
I guess all you need are filter changes. No need to visit the proverbial JiffyLube.

What caused your Lexus to get up to using 2.5 quarts per week? A broken piston ring? Was that change gradual over time? Or was it a sudden change in oil consumption?

Since 2.5 quarts per week would leave a lake on the floor, it wasn't an external oil leak.
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>>15259333
>>15259993
>I had bought a quart of pennzoil platinum for like 25.50 at wallyworld a couple weeks ago, and was curious as to if it was any good.

Those are conventional oils in that picture and at that site URL. Nothing for your Pennzoil Platinum synthetic. The archive thread at >>15259964 has a URL to a oil database though.
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Easy

Thicker the oil, the more your engine parts lasts
The thinner the oil, more gas mileage
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>>15260322
So I just need to get oil that's not too thick and not too thin to get the best of both worlds. Problem solved. Crisis averted. Drinks are on me.
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>>15260388
That way of thinking is from the old world.

Today's engine bearings and modern journals are made to have lubrication occur from hydrostatic separation of the surfaces because oil is incompressible but will slowly squeeze out under the pressure. But before that happens, the oil pressure causes new oil to get into the space due to movement of the surfaces.

The key thing in modern cars is to have oil flow. So too thick a vicosity impedes oil flow.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
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>>15260053
Going from thin as piss 5w-30 to 15w-40, that's why.
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>>15260434
>98. 0W40 Mobil 1, API SN, European Formula, made in the U.S., synthetic = 82,644 psi
>zinc = TBD
>phos = TBD
>moly = TBD

worthless!
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https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

What do you guys think of this? guy claims all that really matters is psi loading and shearing.
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>>15256033
I did a bunch of research on oil and oil filters on sites like bobistheoilguy. Ended up using Mobil 1 extended performance full synthetic and the Mobil 1 M1-110 filter on my Accord. I'm pretty happy so far
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>>15260492
>What do you guys think of this? guy claims all that really matters is psi loading and shearing.

The info varies in value based upon what you know about your engine and how it uses oil. Most of the usage importance lies with bearing where PSI is important. But there are also gears, rollers, sleeves, and impact areas (older cam design). Only you know the combination percentages of these items for your car and how much force is applied to them based on the design. If you don't know, then all you can go on is something like his PSI and shearing because without other knowledge, those are the only numbers that matter to you at that time. As you know more about your car, you can then decide if those numbers are insufficient or inappropriate.
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>>15256033
Always used Quaker State in my cars. That shit is good on the engine. I did also try the Castrol gtx, but mostly I use it if I get a car with higher mileage, just to kinda wash out the old oil over a couple of hundred miles. And then I put in the Quaker State.
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>>15259993
>>15260078

yeah, check out bobistheoilguy.com

they have good blogs and discussion

at the end of the day, you can't go wrong with anything that has a SN / API cert on it but some oils are clearly better than others, pennzoil being the current choice of bob is the oil guy shitposters (this is because of its low volatility and high amount of molybendum)
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>>15256033
> Look at fully synthetic oils on website
> Check price/litre
> Buy cheapest name-branded oil

My car is still fairly new, so it gets fancy name-brand oil. My old car was old, so it got cheap supermarket own-brand oil because there was no fucking point pouring anything expensive in there.
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Castrol GTX 20-50w

i use it for anything, and so far nothing has seized, so it must be alright
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>>15256033
I usually pick whatever is cheapest. Oil is oil.
It's the additive package that matters. As long as you change your oil regularly enough it doesn't really matter.
I do try to go full synthetic though.
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Whichever full synthetic of Castrol Edge, Pennzoil Platinum, or Mobil1 is on sale at the parts stores with a GOOD filter(read; not K&N) at the time.
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>>15256033
yup

bafflingly expensive obscure european oil brands are always the best
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>falling for the oil meme
makes me laugh everytime
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Golf 3 1.9 TD used to chug Castrol oil, switched to Mobil 1, been an absolute dream since, 500k km on it.
Went with Mobil 1 505.01 for the Mk 4 PD TDI. Works fine so far.
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>>15260492
That article is worded as if billy mays wrote it
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>>15256033
Titan GT1 by Fuchs
Those people don't make fuel or other chemicals. They make only lubricants.
I didn't know about them until we start using there grease in pretty much every fucking industrial gears in my work place. They just work and outlast every other grease we used to use (renolit lx c2)
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>>15259333
Who the fuck uses conventional oil now unless you have a shit rotary
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>>15263476
>Who the fuck uses conventional oil now unless you have a shit rotary

Lots of people buy the conventional oil jugs at walmart for $11 to $13 for FIVE quarts and it is SAE rated oil. So it meets specifications and is usa made so no worries about fake chinese certifications. That amount of money is actually significant to a lot of people. The wealth gap is getting larger all the time too thus exacerbating the problem.
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>>15257452
>>15257457
>>15259188
It's called MAGNATEC NOT MAGNETIC

You bunch of cocks. It's just a play on words because they claim it clings to your engine parts.

GET IT?
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>>15264555
>It's just a play on words because they claim it clings to your engine parts.

Shouldn't Castrol oil make an oil leak on your garage floor? It should flow around your oil seals since it's owned by BP.
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>>15259333
my car uses no oil anyway
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>>15263476
nearly every tractor trailer

you know the ones that haul shit tons of stuff and last a million miles regularly
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>>15265285
do you drive a saab?
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>>15265497
lmao yes actually
how did you guess
2.0 NA 9000
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>>15265514
they do weird shit
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>>15265526
hah yep
car is slow as balls but it's so comfy i love it
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>>15263476
My W126 use mineral oil.
Because you put synthetic oil in your 2001 Corolla doesnt mean every one do it.
Fagget
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>>15257457
>>15264555
It says magnatec molecules right on the label.
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>>15265514
>2.0 NA 9000
2.3 turbo 9000, 900 turbo, and 9-3 2.0 turbo.

Everything turbo gets rotella t-6. Jeep gets Valvoline maxlife as it leaks a little.
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For my old truck I just grab what ever is on sale at advance...it leaks and burn oil fairly fast so it gets changed about every 2kmi also I avoid store brands....bought high milage synthetic blend by accident didn't bother checking when oil and filter was 17$ guess I'll see how it goes
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Liquimoly 10w60 and a Mahle filter.

One out of a few companies to produce a 10w60 formula.

Rod bearings and vanos is too delicate to use a weight that differs from the one used by BMW.
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>>15265664

But does it have electrolytes?
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>>15265955
And Vitamins B6 and B12?
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Just use the house oil from my local parts store because I get it like 2$ a litre, fully synthetic, use an OEM filter and my entire oil change costs me like 15$. May start using some high mileage, or even good oil soon, just need a better paying job.
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>>15265955
>But does it have electrolytes?
Coolant is an electrolyte. But you don't want any, eh?
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>>15265664
Yeah, MAGNATEC, not MAGNETIC.

Fucking magnats, how do they work?
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>>15256033
taste
If its tasty, car will like it
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Whats the difference between fully synthetic, mineral and semi synthetic oil? Which one should one use for what applications?
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>>15268733
Type that question into google and it will tell you. Google seems to have adapted many of the language features of ASK.COM where you could ask questions and get some search results. ASK is still better at targeting results, but google has a bigger set of choices to pick from.

The answer relates to the types of lubricants 1 to 4. But the ones you are talking about are types 1 through 3 with 3 being full synthetic.
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>>15267581
That is very deceptive on the part of Castrol. Why would they need to lie about their oils?
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>>15263476

> hurr durr muh synthetic

Maybe you ought to read up on motor oil because you're obviously a sheep to corporate marketing

bobistheoilguy.com

Fuck the labels, its the chemistry that matters
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>>15268804
Because they want to make it sound special and sell a lot, that's how these wankers operate
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>>15268804
>That is very deceptive on the part of Castrol. Why would they need to lie about their oils?

Castrol is owned by BP. So that means it is bound to leak if you are using it on your boat in the gulf of mexico.
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>not using hello kitty motor oil

you plebs get on my level.
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>>15269142
Surely there must be some Initial D motor oil that Takumi approves of.
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>>15261766
Nothing to do with the fact he has a page dedicated to advertising for them..
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>>15270406
>Nothing to do with the fact he has a page dedicated to advertising for them..

He's successfully monetized his site and some of the regular posters are official industry personnel. HOWEVER, some of these forums, bobistheoilguy included, are quite useful because these industry people do answer questions and even provide help. For example, the Fram USA technical director is regularly in the forums. They are aware that the chinese parts suppliers make unauthorized substitutions and even unauthorized manufacturing dimension changes to products. So for those who are reliable long time forum members (thus not fake one day trolls) do get such filters, take them apart carefully, and identify the suspected problem, the tech director asks for those filters so they can find out which factory is doing this. In return, all the shipping is paid of course and the forum poster gets a bunch of filters of his choice as reward for the info.

But if you simply appear to spout hate, spit on everything, then you won't last long on moderated forums. It's why those trolls in /o/ that make trash threads to force good threads off also don't survive in moderated forums.

However, on those moderated forums, you don't get the complaints about Jiffylube's upsell scams and other problems. The moderators delete all unsubstantiated highly-negative comments like that and jiffylube might even sue the account since it's not anonymous and can be tracked to the ISP account. So there's pluses and negatives for those forums.
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>>15256395
>Check your manual and the internets for what's recommended.
this is the only right answer
everything else in this thread is just retards being retarded
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>>15270489
>this is the only right answer
It says go to dealer at regular maint intervals according to schedule.

>this is the only right answer
I say no to that. As would all the DIY people in here.
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I have my oil analyzed
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>>15270470

this

>>15270406

> gasping at straws

Or the fact that nearly every oil manufacturer had an Q & A there

It just so happened that Pennzoil wanted to advertise to a dedicated fan base

Objectively, their numbers are the best on PQIA, and this gets corroborated by used oil analyses from users on bob is the oil guy

A lot of people fall victim to clever marketing (Magnatec lol). You do whatever you want, I really don't give a shit what you put in your engine. I'm giving you and the other anons this information and you can choose what you want to do with it.

>>15270624

based blackstone customer

I love doing UOA's
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>>15270624
*tips fedora*
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>>15270489
>the exclusive deal my cars manufacture has with an oil manufacture is the only right answer
sure bud
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>>15270820

> thinking you're smarter than the people who designed the fucking thing

sure bud
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>>15270406

heres more data from PQIA
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>>15270825
>thinking engineers decide the design constraints of a car
lol
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>>15270927

> laughing at the work of mechanical and chemical engineers

because im so helpful, maybe you want to play with this here tool that helps you understand oil specifications

https://www.lubrizol.com/EngineOilAdditives/ACEA/RelativePerformanceTool/default.html

> being a NEET
> getting schooled on oil

you're welcome
>>
>>15270949
>post makes zero sense
>heh I showed him
ok dude, 3rd year structural engineering btw
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>>15270949
>"[Valvoline] SynPower 5W-20, 5W-30 and DuraBlend 5W-30 went through all the Dexos testing and passed all the requirements," Smith says. "But we felt that carrying the Dexos name was not providing the consumer with any value."

It's literally marketing and liability protection.
The manufacture owns the oil or has a stake in it and licenses the name to other oil manufactures.
You're an idiot.
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>>15270991

> not spending any time reading articles about motor oil
> bitching about dexos, the most notoriously bloated and marketed oil cert out there
> therefore all oil specifiations are bullshit
> btw i am a third year STRUCTURAL ENGINEERing student

Oh congrats you just picked the most useless oil cert out there

that must mean that all other oil specifications are useless (even SAE and API)

I mean, fuck quality controls, consistency, regulation, oh and yes those liability protections

it isn like oil has gotten better over the last 100 years or anything

I mean really, what was I thinking?
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I used this in my VR6, runs good.
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>>15256033
Best to visit a forum specific to your car mate. Other owners will know which works best and which causes noisy lifters etc.

Beware fools who say Only use _____ because my pappy said so and he's a mechanic for 60years. Mechanics will use the cheapest shit they can get in bulk.

I personally wouldnt put castrol in anything i own due to nothing but bad results. Penrite all the way baby
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>>15257315
+1 mobil. Used to use Delvac in my diesel. 370,000 on the clock and purred like a kitten
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>>15256033
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>>15271051
>What was I thinking
I agree you're a moron.
You aren't even arguing the same thing anymore.
You've been officially destroyed by 2 different people.
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>>15271258

Destroyed by what? baseless arguments? you guys don't cite a fucking thing besides

> hurr durr im a structural engineering student
as if that has any bearing on this discussion whatsoever

so when you do come up with something substantial, I'll concede to your point, but until then you haven't done a fucking thing to disprove anything I've presented
>>
>>15270624
>I have my oil analyzed

RESULTS:
Silica: 28 Still acceptable but your air filter may be allowing something to get past. Check its seating.

TCN: 7.7 Still plenty left to fight acidification of the oil by contaminants.

PRX: 100 Please stop ejaculating into your oil. It's an old wives tale that this makes your engine behave more masculine.
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>>15271285
The facts have already been laid out in previous posts.
Nothing will change your mind, you're just trying to "win" at this point.

It's pathetic, really. You're obviously a know-nothing.
>>
>>15271759

kek

what facts? you haven't posted anything objective, literally everything you've come back with is anecdotal
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>>15271798
>Nothing will change your mind, you're just trying to "win" at this point.
>>
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>>15271847

I already won
>>
IIRC Audi's come from the factory with Liqui-moli oils and fluids.

Amsoil makes a pretty good product but have a top notch website to reference fluid fill amounts and types.

Shell Rotella is excellent quality and value for diesel engines.

Choosing oil and fluids is more of an application specific thing than most people think.

Oil is not simply just oil, such is the reason why it's called a formulation.
What input will help achieve the desired output?
>>
>>15271881
>Audi's come from the factory with Liqui-moli oils and fluids.
None of mine did. A 2001 A6 and 2005 S4. Both bought new. The hydraulic fluids and coolant were the only "special" fluids.
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>>15271902
IIRC = If I Remember Correctly

What did they come with?
>>
I just follow the owners manual and buy OEM oil, my car loves it
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>>15256033
More expensive is better might work for some things, but definitely not for motor oil in the Americas where the industry is driven by the smoke and mirrors of marketing more than anything else.
>>
Pennzoil Ultra platinum, can only order it online/jiffy lube. 130k after using since 40k and my engine is still quiet as shit.
>>
K-Mart in my town recently closed.
Had "no name" non-branded 10w-30 oil for $0.50 a quart.
I got like 20 quarts for my old GM van

Also got 10 Purolator filters for muh van for like$0.70 each

So, yay for me on the demise of the US economy?
>>
>>15272036
>More expensive is better might work for some things, but definitely not for motor oil in the Americas
Unfortunately, the higher priced gimmick products make profits by hiding behind the reputation of other products. They do this with the phrase "You get what you pay for" implying that their product is greater than other solid products similar to theirs in nature (but not performance).

>...where the industry is driven by the smoke and mirrors of marketing more than anything else.
Well, the advertising stokes the car owners' emotion of "more is better" in trying to sell things. Oil boosted by graphite is one such thing. Then there was the Slick50 PTFE advertising that successfully drove sales of their Slick50 oil additive. All I can say is that never buy an additive that says "shake well" because that means to me it's going to settle down on the bottom of the oil pan as sludge after you stop driving. And lo, it did.
>>
>>15272707
>So, yay for me on the demise of the US economy?

It seems like Sears is going to die. In my prosperous area, the Sears automotive center had plenty of business, and Sears was trying to sell it off. That doesn't make sense unless the company is really just trying to get cash to stay float another year. It's cannibalizing itself with the current management that is only profiteering by selling off the parts. It's like T.Boone.Pickens took over the company and drove it down in order to sell its parts off.

This past tax season, I went by once again to look for the H.R.Block tax service that used to be there. And once again, nothing for the 2nd year. They'd rather leave the space empty and unused than to have a service that also brought possible customers into the store. I know two separate times that I bought something just because I was there, and other times I walked thru the store. I wondered if it was some sort of corporate sabotage? Instead, Wal-Mart had tax services in their store and shoehorned it into narrow cubicles in the middle of their largest aisles. I didn't use that since wal-mart has more than enough money.

But it seems that only companies selling products made in China can compete in the general goods category. Sears hung firm to selling made in usa goods too long. It also needed to treat its staff less well and more like wal-mart's method. It changed that too but it's too late now it seems because the reputation has left it. I hardly even see sears advertising anymore, but back when I was a kid, there was always a lot of advertising from them. Wal-Mart is a huge profit source for China and a big reason for the demise of many stores that tried to give a living wage. I can say that because I remember how it was immediately before wal-mart came and how it was immediately thereafter. Wal-mart makes most of its money from social welfare too since it is almost the sole place many such people shop at.
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>>15272707
>>15272891
The middle class doesn't buy tons of cheap garbage anymore. They live with less things, modern design and living is non-cluttered, and what they do buy is higher end and the internet has taken the place of big box stores.

Inflation adjusted income per capita is a linear rise since the 90s.
Housing market has fully recovered.
unemployment has recovered to a historical average.
The dollar is strong as fuck.

There's literally nothing wrong with our economy.

Places like Sears and Kmart are just dying out of their own failures, not because people have less disposable income.
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>>15272971
>Housing market has fully recovered.unemployment has recovered to a historical average.The dollar is strong as fuck.

Idiocy: The Post.

Income per capita is flat
Housing market is shit, houses 30% below value and huge areas abandoned and foreclosed.
Unemployment? Ha! Real U-6 unemployment is almost 20%, but King Nigger Ofucko changed how unemployment is counted.
And the US Dollar on Purchasing Power Parity in on a 10 year decline, thanks to runaway US debt and 0% interest rates.

Sears and Kmart are dieing because a Hedge Fund Billionaire, strong-armed his way to buying the company, took it over, he didn't know shit about retail, and subsequently killed the brand. Same thing happened to J.C.Penny.

Of course it doesn't help that 96 Million Americans are out of work, that 45 Million Americans live on Food Stamps, that entire cities are empty of any form real job.
Hells Bells, in 2002 the Median Per Capita income of my city was $40K, in 2015 is was $15K

But yeah, keep on believing the lie that the US economy isn't in a recession/depression.
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>>15274442
>>15272971
>>15272891
>>15272802
>>15272707

>>/biz/
>>
The american auto industry reflects many problems in business and how america has changed. Some people would like to ignore that though.

>>15274442
>Unemployment? Ha! Real U-6 unemployment is almost 20%, but King Nigger Ofucko changed how unemployment is counted.

Actually, President Bush did. He made the changes in a desperate move to not go down in history books as the one that caused huge unemployment. He also made other changes on the index such that subsequent RE-employment of those previously unemployed people didn't include that they were at lower wages or had switched from fulltime to part-time employment. Thus, more of the part-time employed were counted. Some critics also mentioned that some people were counted more than once, but I didn't understand that and ignored it. I wished I had paid more attention.

Another problem about people who use statistis vaguely are those who say income has risen for ALL americans. That is disingenuous because if the top 1% were removed, income has drastically fallen when adjusted for both inflation and purchasing power. That's due to the widening gulf between the wealthy and everyone else. The gulf continues to widen. The gulf matters because everyone else has to make their own fortunes out of the diminishing piece of pie. The top 1% own over 50% of the pie, so that means the other 99% has to make their own wealth out of the other 49%. BUT, the top 5% own over 70%. So that actually means the other 95% have only 29% of the pie. It's no wonder that people are vaguely unhappy after all those inheritance changes as well as taxcuts for the rich have contributed massively to the problem. Prosperity has been reduced unless you do as the republicans want with the statistics like that post in >>15272971 which is what rush limbaugh would say.

So it's too bad the vibrancy in the USA auto market is lost due to the changes in the american public's earnings. The everyday cars will be less imaginative as a result.
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Can I get an advice for the best motor oil for my car? It's a 1997 Saab 900 2.0T (136 kW)
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>>15275662
You should go read the posts on Saab high mileage oil changes at Saabcentral.com or this post which echoes many of the same observations:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=111481

Basically, for high mileage Saab 900, the cruid inside reduces the amount of oil leaking. If you switch to a super cleaning full synthetic like Pennzoil platinum ULTRA, it will clean out the crud that is lodged against the seal or in the seal and your car will leak oil a lot faster. High mileage oils have some additive that swells the seals, but if you stop using that stuff, the oil leaks would resume only even more. So automatically switching to full synthetic is not always the best choice as something can actually be "too good" for the situation.
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>>15275662
Supertech 5w-30
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>>15275925
>>15275933
Thanks! Will try to find the one that I will stick to.
Someone on a Saab thread sugested to stick to the one that's suggesteed by manufacteur (was it Mobile1 5w30?) or something that's a bit better (I think it was Castrol). I don't remember cause it wasn't time for an oil change yet but now the time for the first oil change has come.
Also does the climate means something when searching for oil? I live in northern europe. It tends to be really cold in winter and hot in a few summer weeks.
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>>15276609
>Also does the climate means something when searching for oil? I live in northern europe. It tends to be really cold in winter and hot in a few summer weeks.

Really cold means 0W or at most 5W oil. 10W is way too thick for cold weather starts. The 2nd number is for when it is hot. Your drivers manual should be downloadable for free if you don't have a physical one. It will say the recommended oil, but you can also call your dealer for their advice and consider the two.

Chances are for a 1997, I guess the official oil would be 5W30 since that was the rage at the 1997 time period. Nowadays, 0W30 is a choice for colder weather. In the USA, new cars have either 0W20 or 5W20 for OEM oil choices, but that is model year 2016.
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>>15276670
>if you don't have a physical one
It's in Italian.
Thanks!
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>>15257315
Was using Rotella T6 in my Miata and it used to help my ticking, but after using it for about 15k miles I switched to Mobil 1 5w30 high mileage and tick went away and hasn't come back
>>
I buy cheap generic oil when its on special and stock up a 5L jug or two in the shed until I need to change out oil.
>>
Has anyone tried a thinner oil in hopes to increase gas mileage?
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>>15278239
The thing is, at operating temperature 0w-30 is the same viscosity as 10w-30.
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>>15278382
>what is sae 10, 20, 40, 50, and 60
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>>15278239
>Has anyone tried a thinner oil in hopes to increase gas mileage?
It only changes about 0.5 mpg
If you care to risk your engine to gain a mere 1/2 mpg increase in fuel economy, go ahead.
>>
Pennzoil platinum for the past 20k and Tokyo roki filters since acquisition. Might try a different oil in winter to see if it will solve piston slap. So far car likes it.
My Subaru has 210k on it should I try high mileage synthetic?
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>>15278403
>what is sae 10, 20, 40, 50, and 60
Can you get straight 10 or 20 at your parts store? And how would 40, 50, or 60 save fuel?
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>>15278382
>>15278583
nigga u dumb
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>>15277058
>I buy cheap generic oil when its on special and stock up a 5L jug or two in the shed until I need to change out oil.

Even the 5quart jugs of conventional oil brands at Wal-Mart have an everyday price of $11 to $15. The SuperTech full synthetic 5qt jug is $17.97 so that is a nice price for oil. At least in the usa, you don't need to wait until your supermarket has a sale if you just go to wal-mart where the jugs have a commodity price. It's the one quart bottles that still have the normal high price.
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>>15265262
That wasn't funny. Kys
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>>15256033
Guide to oil choose:
(I'm talking about engine oil)

First 2 digits (before "W"):

15 -> Old cars
10 -> Regular cars, no turbo
5 -> Turbo cars

2 last digits (after "W"):

40 -> Regular
30 -> Diesel particulate filter equiped car


Basic rule: In most case, use 10W40. If the car have turbo, use 5W40.
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>>15280527
Or better yet, read the owners manual.
My N/A v6 car uses 5w20
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>>15280527
Most 4 cylinders on the road use 5/30. Slightly older, most use 10/40. You shouldn't be giving advice.
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>>15280550
This is actually teh best way.
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>>15280559
The guide is made on my french experience.
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What about conventional vs hybrid vs fully synthetic? Just use whatever was in there last?
>>
>all these virgin nerds arguing about oil
just go to a forum with a community based on what you drive or ride.

my daily/only is a kawasaki. go to its forum, see past threads. even make my own. i ride in a really hot climate so i use 20w-50 all summer then back to 10-40 in the winter. synthetic valvoline wet clutch.

boom. done. literally nothing more needed to be considered when getting oil. the only time youll wanna know more is if you're racing frequently cuz your gonna be blowing up your motors every race anyway.

faggots.
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>>15278239
>Has anyone tried a thinner oil in hopes to increase gas mileage?

Some people do that by moving to a thinner oil at operating temperature. Thus, instead of 5W30, they may move to 5W20 which is quite a bit thinner at operating temperature. When oil is thinner, the oil pump still runs at the same rate, so the oil pressure will drop some at the point after the oil filter restriction. Of course, thinner oil also flows through the filter easier, so the oil filter doesn't reduce the oil pressure as much. As long as there is sufficient oil pressure to deliver the necessarily volume of oil, the thinner oil still provides sufficient lubrication and reduced energy loss since there is less loss to viscosity-type shearing losses.

The difference and mileage gain of switching to a lower viscosity oil is described at:
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

>>15280527
>Basic rule: In most case, use 10W40
Your advice is from the 1980's and is not applicable to modern cars. Another problem with high viscosity oils like 40 weight is that pressure spikes can cause that thick oil to crumple the pleats of oil filters or even punch a hole in some like the purolators. A filter designed for a certain car may have filter media created for that expected oil viscosity. If you use thicker oil than expected, the filter may crumple.

As others have said, You should not be giving advice out of another era of motoring. In an archived oil thread, someone even posted a specific example of where a good old practice was now a bad practice with new cars and should not be done. The old threads are worth reading. It's a shame the thread trolls keep making a lot of trash threads to force threads that have knowledge in them to go to page 10 to die.
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>>15281175
Do you realize how small the differential pressure across an oil filter is compared to the pump's discharge pressure?
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>>15256033
I usually use mobil 1 synthetic just because. Guess I made a habit out of using it without really thinking about it. If I had to pick another brand i'd go with royal purple.
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Mobil 1 0w40

The engine parts are so clean they don't even have a slight coating of varnish on them. I also get the oil lab tested to verify it's still good when I change it out.
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>>15280627
>What about conventional vs hybrid vs fully synthetic? Just use whatever was in there last?

See >>15259964 for the link to the archived /o/ thread on "conventional vs synthetic oil".

.

>>15281190
That poster might be thinking of two types of usa cars such as Hybrids and ECO cars which have engines that frequently shut down and start up again. For ECO, the driver can floor the pedal and the car suddenly starts up and at the same time there is high RPM and thus higher oil pumping rate for a combined pressure pulse on the filter. It's why Fram, among others, put wire mesh in some filters made for those cars to stop the pleats from crumpling.
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