I might by this 1990 NA 5 speed FC with 95,000 miles on it. How can I make it fast and what should I fix first? It's been sitting for 9 years with dead battery...
How much should I be paying?
It's a GXL
>>15220036
>sitting for 9 years
>'buy'
this board never fails to deliver
lel
>>15220043
Well some neglectful prick owns it. Says it's his wife's and she's been wanting to fix it. I've seen it sit their for about a year with flat tire in back
Edmunds says....
you shouldnt pay anything for it unless you plan on swapping in a cheap engine and thrashing the shit out of it
Id say maybe $300 since the body looks great
>>15220036
I once had the chance to buy a white manual Turbo II with 104,000 *kilometers* on it for 1,4k (asking price in Euro) and didn't because the engine felt a little weird (didn't produce enough power under certain conditions) when I test-drove it. That was like 10 years ago [image = actual car] and your specimen looks like fucking shit, so they better gift it to you because it certainly shouldn't be worth anything like that.
I wouldn't pay anything for that car. They should pay you to take that huge pile of shit of their drive. From your previous posts here I know you have no automotive knowledge and defiantly will never get that car running, but knowing you and your terrible life choices you will buy it anyway and ask about putting a Ebay turbo kit on it.
>>15220407
Come on I've learnt a lot more since I was fucking 16 and retarded asking about the turbo kit...I've changed 90% of all the things on my car myself in a garage. Did the internal timing belt a while ago, had to time it perfectly and everything because lol interference engine.
Anyways, I'll tell them it's junk and I'll take it for like 800. They said some company came by saying they will pay two grand for it lol...guy thinks I'm dumb
>>15220424
kek
no """company""" is going to pay 2 grand for that car. Like anon said above $300 would be a good price, defiantly no more than $500.
Bring a good battery along and go check it out. Get a compression tester, hook it up and crank it to make sure the compression is still good. As long as you're at ~90 PSI on all rotor faces, it likely won't need a rebuild immediately to get it actually working. This doesn't rule out the possibility of leaky oil and coolant seals, though, which will probably only be evident when the car is running. You can drive with minor leaks, though, and there's a very real possibility that, if the compression tests good, you can crack it open to replace the leaky coolant/oil seals and just re-use the apex seals etc., which are by far the most expensive part of a rebuild. Soft seal kits for 13Bs are like a couple hundred.
Consult google for how to test compression of rotary engines with a normal piston engine compression tester; you might have to remove a check valve to do it properly, but it's not at all difficult.
If the body is in decent shape (aside from the paint, obviously), ie. no rust, suspension still travels and doesn't creak when you bounce it up and down, start your offer at like $800. I wouldn't pay more than $1,500, and even that is stretching it.
As a project car?
Tear it all the way down to the shell.
Prep the body for paint.
Tow it to the shop, get it painted. (price depending on it's use, a track/street car paint job can be cheap)
Sand and buff it out.
And while you're doing all that think about what you want it to be.
Then once you know, you'll have a new repainted shell base ready to go.
It's easier in the long run to do it this way, in my opinion.
Don't pay much for that. Paint/body is the most important part of an old car, the rest is easy.
>>15220036
Half bridge port, 4bbl & headers, gutted, maybe 160 whp for 2500lbs.
