Anybody else have an old RWD Volvo?
>Have 1990 Volvo 240 DL sedan.
>LH 2.4, AW70, B230f.
>Engine stutters when accelerating from stop or slow speed, dies if you don't roll the throttle in.
>Idle is very high, close to 2000 RPM, car goes up to 20 MPH without pressing throttle.
>Replaced/cleaned MAF, plugs, plug wires, coil, rotor and cap, IACV, smoke tested and patched leak in intake hose after MAF, also replaced fuel pump relay.
>Still runs like crap.
>Compression tested engine, was perfect.
>Has 250,000 miles.
WAT DO?
Pic related, but not my car.
I have a RWD volvo!
No clue about your problems though
>>14837147
Isnt it obvious?
FUEL flow issues.
Clean fuel filter and check line pressurem fuel pump could be rekt also clean injectors
S60R near my work
My 1990 wagon. B230F with the M47.
2JZ GE lined up to go in it.
Burnt fuel pump on wagon.
>>14837174
Whoops, also replaced the fuel filter.
Check all vacuum lines op
>>14837190
Did you check fuel line pressure?
What engine i know nothing about vulvas
>>14837201
How can I check for leaks?
>>14837207
Nope, what's the best way to do that?
Volvo b230f
Sounds like the ECU thinks the car is constantly cold and as such is in rich start mode.
Consider checking over your coolant temp sensors.
OBDII or not?
>>14837224
1990 so i doubt OBD2
>>14837214
>Nope, what's the best way to do that?
Money
various amounts of money.
Easiest way is to keep replacing shit.
Next up Fuel pump and clean injectors but that high idle is sus.
Throttle Position sensor maybe does it have a idle adjust screw somewhere? they are in different places try turning the idle down once you fix the fuel issues because thats what is making it die if you dont roll in not enough fuel.
Its also probably raping the fuck out of the engine so tell your 'mate' to stop driving it till its fixed you will cook the engine
>>14837224
1996 and up is OBD2
>>14837214
vacuum tube can be brought in bulk for like £5 for 5meters, get a couple rolls and replace every line one by one. its abit tedious but definatly worth it on any car 10+ years old
Check coolant temp sensor.
>>14837234
>>14837233
Alright well I'd take a good punt at it being the temp sensor, if its idling bang on 2000 all the time and he's fixed air leaks and various other breathing issues its clearly an ECU thing.
Just unplugging the sensor may give a change.
>>14837214
>>14837236
Exactly what this anon said. If it doesn't look broken, just replace it. Those rubber hoses are prone to crack from hot cold temp. Its a cheap fix, that is deginietly time consuming but a likely cause of your problem.
Have you cleaned the flametrap?
>>14837306
I replaced the flametrap awhile back.
>>14837324
Seriously, its the coolant temp sensor.
>>14837324
Coolant temp sensor
Fuel pump relay
One of the fuel pumps
Dirty throttle body
>>14837174
>Isnt it obvious?
welp I was a mechanic for 10 years and I don't think it's immediately obvious
Have fun throwing parts at your car unsuccessfully though
OP check for air leaks first, go round spraying carby cleaner/WD40 (or even water from a spray bottle) and see if the idle changes.
>>14837224
This is also a decent guess
>>14837233
Don't listen to this guy. Holy shit. Replace parts that you can confirm are actually broken. Check your plugs, if they're all the same, that tells you something. Download a manual with a diagnostic flow chart. Find out the process for checking fault codes - it's probably not OBD2 but there is a process to getting codes out of it. Reset, drive, check again.
Stop throwing parts at your car. Do you think that's what they do at a Volvo dealer?
>>14837362
Why the fuck would it be the fuel pump relay
Jesus
It's a fucking switch. It's either on or off. Relays don't switch halfway on
>>14837370
Oh, and cover your basics again. Compression test was good, check the charge rate on your battery. Measure your the resistance in your earth system - Put a multimeter lead on your engine block/alternator, the other on the negative terminal, and crank the motor over. If you get a reading higher than about .3v, you have an earthing problem.
>>14837370
Fuel pumps usually* don't lose pressure slowly enough to cause a running fault.
Usually* they just die in the arse one day. You could try blocking off your fuel pressure regulator return line and see if that changes anything - at idle that should richen the motor a little, under load it shouldn't really change much. This checks your regulator, but not really your pump - if the pump is running low on pressure, you won't be getting much out of the return anyway.
*Sometimes they die slowly instead.
