[Y E A R L Y C A R A U D I O T H R E A D]
Ask, show off, answer, etc.
>>14741972
Bruh why is your sub in backwards?
Building subs fur my living room right now, 4 cabinets, 4cu ft each tuned to 28hz, lab15 drivers.
I got a lab15 in my car too, 3 cuft tuned to 33hz shit bangs
>>14741972
>YEARLY
hgahahaha
>>14741981
So I can smell it quicker and because too lazy to terminal cup...
For low end in my car I have 4 6.5 inch woofers on 25 Watts each.
I'm stepping the fucking game up.
Your audio system doesn't use nearly this little power.
Your subwoofers aren't nearly this small.
pleb
>>14741997
>because too lazy to terminal cup...
Run the wire out the port
>>14742000
Hope this is a joke desu
>>14742003
Nope. 2 are sealed, 2 are ported. The two ported speakers are wired in series and the sealed ones are as well. Then both sets of speakers are wired in parallel for an 8 ohm load in the end.
Bumps good enough. Doesn't reach -10hz like you might like, but it's k.
>>14742014
>Nope. 2 are sealed, 2 are ported.
Why?
>>14742014
Shit man, the group delay on that would be abhorrent.
doors,
another post inc.
>>14742116
meh i switched the pics w/e
>>14742119
Was it hard to make the pods?
Thinking of just doing this but with some wood to blend...nothing too hard. Might just put a magnet under carpet and say fuck it
>>14742038
The idea was that the ported woofers would hit a bit lower frequencies.
>>14742050
explain por favor
>>14742196
So why not just have all ported?
Why not just a single 12 that would go lower and louder than all of that with less complexity?
>>14742116
What subs are those? They look like daytons
>>14742234
Lot's of reasons.
In this car I've run:
2 twelve inch woofers in a sealed box.
4 twelve inch woofers in two separate boxes.
The same two twelve inch woofers mounted backwards onto the original sealed box, except now with a port. (did not work well)
A single 12 inch woofer in a huge ported box mounted basket side out. Actually bumped really hard. It had no definition to the bass but it was loud.
Then for a while I ran a 10 inch woofer in a ported box mounted normally... eventually blew it.
The real reason I did the 4 6.5 inch woofers is because I had the speakers and the wood laying around and wanted to do something other people weren't. I can turn off the cross over and play frequencies from about 25-5000hz through it, and plan to add some tweeters to cover the high end to make it into an impromptu field party sound system since the sound systems are usually horse shit and I'm not much of a party-er
The reason I didn't go all ported is because I think sealed boxes have just a bit tighter bass... as in the speaker cone doesn't waffle about after the tone has stopped playing.
It's been a fun project and it sounds good so I'm happy.
Does anyone know of a pop-out single DIN head deck that supports Android GPS connectivity? I haven't been able to find one, only ones i've found don't support it or are really terrible china shit.
Found these on the curb one day, no idea if they work.
They look a little crusty and shitty for sure though.
>>14746074
Sealed enclosures exhibit less group delay than bass reflex enclosure, far less than bandpass enclosures and extreme less than horn loaded enclosures.
Group delay is the measurement of how long in milliseconds it has taken for the loudspeaker and enclosure to produce one sinusoidal movement from the electrical input of a sinusoidal signal. The factors influencing group delay are the mechanical and electrical compliance of the loudspeaker, the strength of the motor (Bl), the length of the port if the enclosure has a port or the length of the horn and the aperture of the port mouth or horn.
Long group delay is described as loose, slow, muddy (not muddy as in 120-250Hz mud). Short group delay is described as tight, dry, hard hitting.
Group delay varies depending on the frequency the loudspeaker and enclosure is generating. Group delay influences phase response. It is normal for a sealed enclosure to move over 700 degrees of phase from 20Hz to 120Hz though a long group delay results in many more degrees of phase change and phase anomalies.
The issue you have mate is you have two enclosure types with differing frequency response (manageable), vastly different group delay (manageable with DSP) and VASTLY different phase plots. These factors all add up to the formation of nodes (wave crests and troughs match) and antinodes (wave crests match troughs and interfere) in your response, a long and multi-faceted group delay plot and a very interesting reactive load to your amplifier as there are inductors (your voice coils) connected electrically with differing environments.
If this sounds the way you like it, that's all that matters. It doesn't matter if it's 'technically' wrong. If we all stuck to the models then we wouldn't have designs that changed how we think about sound reproduction like the MTL-4's, the Meyer SB1000's, Nexo's refractive horns, guitar and bass rigs that sound 'iconic' and well loved that have mismatched speakers and sizes.
Run what you brung.
>>14746319
I looked up what group delay was and read enough to understand what you meant.
I can't think of a reason my group delay would be long, or slow, and it doesn't sound like it is. The woofers are very small and lightweight, and hit hip hop drum kicks and most of the lower bass range. I knew I wouldn't get <20Hz, but I'm good with it right now.
I can see now why using two different enclosures could mess up the tone. I've used a frequency generator on my phone to play a tone from around 30Hz to 200+Hz and can hear that it has octaves where tones may be a little louder or quieter than the tone I just passed, but it's not nearly as bad as some ideas I've tried (I've had bad ones before).
My reasoning behind doing this is basically that if a sealed speaker is tight and responsive, and a ported woofer is slower, less responsive, and louder, then I could combine the two designs into a sort of median between the two.
I would attach a picture, but it doesn't look like much anyway.
Where did you guys learn about car audio stuff? I want to replace my speakers but I know between jack and shit about any of this stuff and I want to learn before I go sinking a bunch of money into this.
>>14746098
>Sony Xplode
Those things can cook eggs, and burn down your car.
>>14746476
I don't really know. My mind just piled a bunch of stuff into it because I was interested in sound.
Replacing your speakers is really easy... all you have to know is what size speakers to buy, what impedance the stock ones were so you can match the new ones, maybe a bit of soldering, and how to take a door panel apart.
Just don't buy the cheapest shitty speakers available. I guess I can't talk since I have some Scosche(??) (walmart brand) speakers in my car, but I listened to them first. Basically, don't buy speakers that are going to burn up at the volume you want to listen to because then you just have to do it again.
If you're still in high school take a physics class because it'll teach you about some electronics and a whole bunch of other stuff.
>>14746520
Thanks for the advice. I'm already planning on getting some halfway decent speakers because I learned the hard way that cheap ones will blow out of you really easy so I'm going to spring for some better quality ones this time. Unfortunately I'm not in high school (dropped out 5 years ago) but I'll be heading to college in the fall so I'll be taking a physics class eventually.
Is it okay to cheap out on a head unit, if I really just want want one that I can use my phone with? I don't plan on building a system around it at this time or in the near future, though my dad says I can use some components he has lying around
>>14746420
I understand your reasoning, but it's more complicated than this unfortunately.
Your ported enclosures would most likely have a longer GD than your sealed enclosures though it's more the differences between them sum and negate each other in phase and frequency response. But again, if it is making the right sounds for you then you have a design that suits your needs. Plenty of people pay big money for sound systems with strange response and time anomalies like BOSE. That said, they are carefully engineered anomalies.
A well known rule with sound reinforcement is to not have two different cabinets producing the same note apart from within the passband slope for crossovers or filters. This applies across the spectrum. Even then there are exceptions to the rule like additional cardioid subwoofers or delay towers.
Keep experimenting as practical experience cannot be beat, but keep learning as you go and understand why some things worked well where others didn't. Awesome to see your enthusiasm and how many designs you've tried so far.
There are a few things you can do with the higher frequencies if you want a mobile loudspeaker rig in your car. Look around into why loudspeakers sum if they are physically together within a quarter of the wave being produced, and what happens when you array high frequency elements like tweeters or metal compression drivers horizontally or vertically. With the right design you can make some serious sound with manageable power.
Good luck!
>>14746877
There are some low dollar units that go alright. You just need to be content with limited EQ and filter adjustments and probably only a pair of line level outs. As long as it suits your needs and sounds good, you'll be fine.
I think Alpine still have a radio and interface only head unit with no cd drive for a low price that is good value, put one in the wife's car.
>spent $500 on a new amp, 10" sub, new 6x9s, wiring, new head unit, and 128GB flashdrive for music.
>too busy with work and school to take a day to start installing it
>it's all sitting in boxes inside
Life is suffering. I drive ~100 miles a day too, the irony.
I am posting as a noob.
Bought a car, used to have some ancient (1993) bose system that used 4 small speakers (3.5 in) and center speaker (no joke).
Previous owner removed bose system, added amp and replaced speakers with same size alpines, removed center speaker completely, and then added a sub.
Of course he REMOVED the sub when he sold it. Now I have 4 small speakers no sub.
Thinking about just adding a sub - should I replace the small speakers too? They sound ok - can't tell since it's terrible with no low end.
Pic of center speaker for shits and giggles
>>14747304
I mean replace the 3.5in ones with 6 or 6.5in using a different mounting bracket.
Not sure if it's worth the $200 and work
I have an amp. In bridged mode it runs 4ohm at ~500 watts. I used to have two old Fosgate 8ohm subs ~250 watts each. Is there ANY sub that will match this amp?
>>14742196
>ported woofers would hit a bit lower frequencies.
wat
any one know what this type of speaker is called
I had some small ones like for my car many years ago
they have paper cones and inverted side walls
>>14747397
You need to post some actual numbers or names. Could be anything
I've blown my stock tweeters and speakers because I'm a loud hooligan blasting the hip hop.
What replacements can handle the loudness on a budget, not a stickler for in car audio quality or nigger bass.
>>14747387
with a ported box can be of a lower over all size compared to a sealed box
given both tuned to the same freq
another thing with ported boxes is you will encounter port flutter well before there is any danger to the cone
this and the extra slack on the back pressure keeps your sub in better shape
>>14747387
Like many things sound, it depends.
Do you call 'hitting' a note within the lowest usable frequency (-10dB), within range (-3dB) or as loud as the mean level of the rest of the passband? A sealed enclosure will usually offer a somewhat flat passband with good low and infra extension to the lowest useable frequency but a very low tuned reflex enclosure can be made where the low and infra output is louder right down to the lowest usable frequency than the sealed equivalent at the expense of the even order harmonics associated with a reflex enclosure, poor response in the next octave and longer group delay. We don't know the tuning and construction of his enclosures, this may be what is happening or it may be the reverse where his ported enclosures are unloading with the air mass behind them well before the sealed enclosures have hit the low limit.
Horses for courses. Extreme output LF and IF commercial units are almost always a low tuned enclosure with a small passband requiring additional woofers. Many studio woofers with a wide passband make use of a sealed enclosure.
>>14747397
on the left is a sb 2450
on the right is eas 16Pl163e
seems like only matsushita makes them
This thread is 100000 times better than the entire /r/carav on plebbit
>tfw i have a rare 80's deck but its broken and no one can repair it
:'( cuts me deep
i own a miata, where can i mount a sub? id prefer to keep some amount of boot space if possible
>>14748403
Cmon now
>>14748415
DATS! SEXY!
have any pictures when it all light up?
>>14747304
Does your head unit support a low cut / high pass filter for the speaker outputs? If so, depending on how big your car is interior wise the best value would be to just add a woofer. Use a 120Hz low cut on the speaker outputs so you aren't using power pushing these small loudspeakers hard reproducing notes they just cannot do effectively. Be aware though that critical low frequencies between 120Hz and 200Hz will have to be done with the woofer over the smaller speakers. This range is usually covered by a five or six inch loudspeaker. You will have to adjust the phase of the woofer playing a song with these frequencies or white or pink noise until it appears that the bass behind you feels closer to the driver's seat.
I have four inch loudspeakers in my car with two twelve inch woofers though it is very small inside.
>>14747381
Sure man, any four ohm single coil speaker or dual two ohm voice coils to get the best out of your amp. Heaps of them around to suit your budget.
>>14747414
http://www.soundqubed.com/Components-_c_50.html
I've heard a set of these Soundqubed loudspeakers and for $100 US (more in ausfailia but not bad) I thought they were pretty hard to beat. I also have Polk Mobile Monitor stuff in the poopra that was good value and can be made to sound very good with filters.
>>14748390
Are you sure? Try a local straight up electronics repair agent. Stereo repair, oldschool electronic repair sorta stuff. At the end of the day components are components and a workshop worth their salt should do it for a good price if they have the time for a small job.
>>14748416
read>>14748390
>>14748390
>>14748415
>>14748417
here's a vid of one working though
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dZ0l7dzB0y0
keen eyes will notice mine is a kenwood krc99 and not a kenwood krc999 MkII
from what i can gather, they changed the name in a different region.
also even weirder, there is fucking no information on the internet about it. so yeah, can't find spare parts, or models from the era that share parts.... shit sucks
>>14748409
did i mention i want to keep my doughnut
y'all need to get on my shit tier level
>>14748422
tried, couldn't get it to power on.
going to try and find another place when i get home, at work.
>>14748425
why am i not surprised that youre a
P plater
>>14748424
Mount it underneath or live dangerously.
Orrrrr buy a slimline active sub and put it under your seat.
(But that's boring)
>>14748430
'cause i was slack getting reds at 25...
>>14748425
Don't stress it man, it'll bump until you upgrade. That looks like an older Kicker amp which should be solid. On the cheap - moar cone area.
>>14748438
well it does the job, and they've already shaken some of the trim off... what more could you want than a self destructive impreza?
>>14748447
Can I borrow your Sony sub? I want to see how well it can handle 2000 watts rms.
>>14748476
where do you live?
>>14748481
The us. Highly unlikely it would handle that much power very long. But this might be underpowered...
>>14746877
http://www.amazon.com/Bravo-View-IND-100U--Dash-AUX-/dp/B008S0DJMU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459448092&sr=8-1&keywords=bravo+ind-100u
I've had this hu in my car for about a year and a half. Only problem I've had is the aux port getting loose which I've fixed. Same W/channel as my original head unit. No blue tooth or CD player, just aux USB and a card reader. 1 subwoofer out. It's about the most basic hu around.
