I have an i6 automatic tran car which runs totally fine shifts awesome has no problems what-so-ever cold. When it warms up after 20-30 minutes of driving it starts to act up.
When I approach a stop sign after warmed, it dies. I restart the engine which restarts fine but then when I try to take off it chuggs and kills. I have to give it a ton of gas just to get it to take off without dying
When it gets like this, if I throw it into reverse it shutters for 1 second and dies. 8 / 10 times.
My ASE Mechanic thinks its the O2 sensor and he has a replacement on the way. Makes sense to me since the O2 sensor doesnt really communicate with the engine until after its warmed up.
I asked him about MAF and ICV and he said if those were messed up then it would idle strangely cold (which I agree with, and it's not doing currently)
So -
Anything else I should put on the check-list? I'd like to get this ironed out. The car also seems to be a little sluggish on the take-off even while cold, but it doesnt shutter and almost die until warm.
Thoughts, /o/?
>>14740775
When it gets like this, its almost impossible to throw it into reverse or drive without it killing itself. It feels like its not getting enough air mixture by the way it shutters and dies. I had to throw it down into Manual 1 with fluttering gas pedal just to get it to limp home the other day.
>>14740775
How about getting a scan tool and checking for errors?
Provided the car has that kind of sensors, it should already have an obd plug.
Changing parts without at least doing a scan first is beyond retarded.
>>14740794
No error codes :(
Check engine light isnt on. It's a '95.
>>14740799
>>14740799
>>14740794
The check engine light doesnt even come on when it starts acting up. nearly impossibly to diagnose that way given the situation
OP here. Given the symptoms (starts screwing up after warm)
Could a vacuum leak be a possibility that I need to check into?
>>14740826
(OP again) I mean I don't claim to be a master mechanic but if there were a vac leak wouldnt it idle strangely whilst cold? or am I wrong?
>>14740832
Maybe not.
Piping could be cold and leak not be apparent.
Using the tools and run diagnostic with the car warm.
See A/F ratios, rpms, injection, etc....
That's what computers are for.
Blindly replacing parts is retarded.
>>14740840
>blindly replacing parts is retarded
So you'll keep parroting yourself
I have an ASE mechanic on hand. He charges me nothing for labor. We get Bosch parts. That means if it doesnt fix the problem we send them back and get 100% refund and move to the next problem
Unless you have specifics on how to diagnose a car without relying on a computer (READ: 95 with NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT OR CODES) then please stop replying.
Just looking for some real input not "HOLY SHIT YOUR RETARDED LOL" shitposting.
Thanks.
>>14740883
blindly replacing parts IS retarded though. just because you have an "ASE mechanic" that is willing to do it doesnt mean anything. It actually makes sense why he doesnt charge you labor since he doesnt diagnose anything.
>>14740947
He said thats what he thought it was and his first guess. I'll trust him over an anon.
Aside from that what should I consider
(such as vacuum leaks)
He is an ASE master mechanic and doesnt charge me because we are close friends and he owes me favours. Known him for around 18 years.
Can we get some real answers please?
>>14740947
It's not retarded when my friend whom is ASE runs the local technology trade school automotive division and shows kids how to do things. He does the work, they stand back and watch. They learn, I get work done for free. He helps me out since we were friends for a long time and I've done some things for him in the past.
Now thats out of the way, can I get some second opinions here please? thanks
>>14740971
OP here again,
I do think that the O2 sensor replacement should fix the issue. but if not, what else could be the culprit? Many thanks /o/ i've been working on this car for a while now and its soooooo close to being done. this is the last fix-up..
>>14740775
I have an i6 automatic tran car
WHAT CAR IS IT?
Holy shit
>>14741020
:( i didnt want to say until now because of judgement
1995 bmw 525i - i6 m50 engine automatic
>>14741026
I swear im not an asshole like other bmw drivers, i just want my car to work again.
help me /o/
>>14740957
>I'll trust him over an anon.
Then why the flying fuck are you even bothering asking here if you wouldnt trust what anyone here would say unless it's the same shit your mechanic bff is saying.
My thoughts? You should go fuck yourself.
>>14741034
Did you read my post?
He gave his input
I wanted additional input
Im just trying to get other opinions man and by anon i meant you since you seem very salty for some reason?
I bought this car to help out a family member I just want to get it running decently so I can get another 100k or so out of it. its sitting at 163k mi
The O2 sensor seems to be the likely culprit, but if we change that and its still messing up then what should I look at next? I need to change the O2 anyway since it was some shitty generic. Repping with Bosch.
Throttle position sensor?
>>14741324
But wouldnt that have some issues while cold?
or not?
Im not a mechanic, I am just guessing at things. Should I put TPS on my checklist of O2 rep doesnt work out?
Thanks
>>14740883
Are you fucking stupid?
What are the real time diagnostics for?
Seeing fun values going up and down within the engine?
Go fuck yourself. I was actually trying to help. Right now I could care less, in fact I wish for it, that your car gets on fire and kills your ASE mechanic while at it since hes clearly a hack with no idea what he is doing.
>>14741034
> i'll trust him over an anon
>>14740971
second opinions
>>14741002
crying like a bitch again
Go fuck yourself you ungrateful bitch. You've been told already several time to run real time diagnostics.
But guess your faggot ase mechanic friend who apparently has stopped in time somewhere in the 80's is better.
Fucking cunt.
The proper way to diag an 02 sensor is to first check codes if OBDII, it will throw a code if the heater is broken or signal voltage out of range. If not OBDII you can check output voltage while it is running by poking pins through the right wires and checking with a voltmeter. It might not be and O2 sensor so you gotta think this through. Air, fuel, and spark are needed for your engine to run. You will have either an airflow meter, a Mass Airflow sensor, or a Manifold pressure sensor, or a combination. These are direct and indirect ways that the engine computer measures airflow and and faults will result in incorrect airflow measurement and improper fueling resulting in rich or lean conditions. A leak in the intake system (a vacuum leak, unless turbo and therefore boost/vacuum) will cause the same things. I would also check fuel pressure at the rail with a gauge while the motor is running and also shut off to see if the system holds pressure. Compare against values for a healthy pump. Your fuel pump should make a noise from the rear of the car when the door is opened or the key put in. Make sure your fuel system is working correctly. You would feel a misfire if your ignition system isn't working properly or it will throw a code as well. Any and all codes can give important clues as to what is acting up. You want to check as many things as possible and confirm they are working properly before you throw parts at it. Posting to a BMW-specific forum would be a good thing too as there are people there who will know your car inside and out.
