So I'm about to purchase my first car after totaling the car my parents bought me.
I wanted to know, what kind of maintenance would I be looking at if I bought a classic 6 cylinder mustang, or a classic caddy, or some classic vehicle. Are there any classic vehicles that are better for DDing?
I'm not a total noob to maintenance as I had to do a lot of work on my E90 BMW myself because of cost of labor at the stealership. Are there any good forums for classic cars? I remember the bimmer post forums saved me tons of money.
Would a BMW 2002 be an easy fixer upper?
>>14721138
Other than greasing the chassis, setting timing, and keeping the carb tuned, you'll spend most of your maintenance time keeping a 40+ year old vehicle from plainly falling apart.
>>14721138
Mustang Coupes are amazing if you want in on the classic car game.
Get them now while prices are nice and low - Everyone spent years blinded by the fastbacks, but the market for those is absolutely fucked. In about 5 years, Coupes will be very expensive.
>>14721258
So it's mostly body work? How difficult is maintenance and what products should I definitely get and what products should I avoid
Also how expensive would it be to get an LS1 in a 66 Mustang
Also, I've heard 2002s have pretty abundant and relatively cheap to get parts and are great beginner fixer uppers. How true is this?
>>14721138
Be aware that you're not going to have a modern electrical system. You're not even going to have an alternator.
>>14721278
No, it will be mostly everything work, but when the driver's seat falls through the floor because the crossmember is gone, I guess that's technically body work.
What? At a shop? More than you can afford, pal.
This has to be bait.
>>14721278
Holy shit kids like you should just fucking die. Fucking millenials.
>>14721331
>caring about a 6-cylinder Mustang
come on m8 like 70% of them were cheapass I6 commuter coupes. Not every Mustang had the 289.
>>14721341
No, I meant
>totaled the car my parents bought me
>I'll show them I'm responsible
>by buying an old, high maintenance shitbox
>>14721309
No, myself
I know a guy who DD's a '65 Mustang coupe, unfortunately the base model with the I-6 and 3-speed auto.
The I-6 is gutless at 120hp, drinks fuel harder than a ported rotary engine with boost and can barely rev past 5k.
Sounds decent straight piped though and isn't difficult to work on at all. You can literally stand in the engine bay if you wanted.
>>14721351
Not really trying to show them I'm responsible, it was the other persons fault, insurance paid off the loan and my parents still got 6000 cash left over, lent me 1000 so I could get put my downpayment down quicker, and I'm planning on using this car to help me get more experience with car maintenance on a simpler platform (BMW maintenance is a nightmare)
>>14721359
You honestly sound like you don't even own a wrench. I wouldn't advise you doing an engine swap for the safety of the motoring public.
>>14721381
>Someone tries to learn about working on cars
>"hurr you're retarded you don't know about cars"
-Every single car guy ever
everyone started somewhere douche
>>14721458
A high performance engine swap isn't somewhere to start. It hasn't been somewhere to start the last 6 years that punks like you have been asking the same question. You don't need a race car to wrap around a tree. A regular car will do just fine.
If you live where it snows, DON'T DD A CLASSIC. Many are not suitably protected against mag chloride because it wasn't in use when they were built. As for parts/maintenance things like drain plugs, wires, and bushings, not so much of an issue, but when you need a mechanical component or body accessory, be prepared to pay hefty prices. I'd say go for it if you want to. My '64 Bel Air has made a great DD but you need to be aware of the lack of safety features (namely good brakes and airbags) and what you'll spend on gas.
>>14721458
>"everyone starts somewhere"
>LS engine swap
The shop in my town that ONLY DOES LS ENGINE SWAPS still take a while to do it, and get it right, and tune it correctly. You're a kid with maybe an engine hoist and a husky ratchet set from home depot. Not gonna happen.
>>14721138
know why old guys have classic cars?
they have money
they have nowhere to be in a hurry
they have the time to maintain and repair
>>14721304
I thought only the 64.5 models had generators and switched to alternator for 65
just get a corolla you retard
>>14721368
Shut up and buy a civic.
>>14721368
>Downpayment
Just get a fucking job and outright buy a decent shitbox you can afford if you want to learn to wrench.
The problems should present themselves slowly, so you can keep up. The reality of owning a '65 Stang is that you WILL be overwhelmed by the amount of work it takes to keep a 51 year old Pony car usable.
Still, it's actually all right here in Britain, you can get a 'classic' POS by one of the smaller sports cars companies from the 60s+ and just staring at the problems you get from an old Herald that was built by a man who spent more time on a picket line than a production line.
Still piss easy to work on though, thankfully.
It can be done; right now, I'm DDing a 1978 Excalibur until a part I need for my 1971 Cadillac comes in.
If it looks like rain, I take the DeLorean instead.
Currently, those are my only cars.
Classic cars are easy to work on and a lot of fun to drive, but, since you're concerned with the cost, don't get a Mustang. Get something like a 1966 Falcon instead. That way, you get a better car for the money. They're similar enough under the hood.
Get AAA as well. It's the best aid for the hobby.
Otherwise, if you start simple, buy all the manuals, and keep a reserve of cash for the inevitable issues, it can be very rewarding. I, essentially, drive classics for free by selling them every few years for a little more than I have invested and buying another.
>>14722919
I mean that's pretty much how I took care of my BMW. I'd set aside at least 200 a month for maintenance alone and always keep at least 3600 in my savings
>>14722919
This. DDing a classic is very doable. I drive mine for weeks at a time when I have extra cash for fuel (or if it gets cheap, premium is pricey, Avgas is even more so) with very few if any real issues. Some parts prices are high, yes, but its more expensive for things like body panels and if you care, interior knobs and small stuff. If you start with a solid base and an engine that spins free, it will be a very simple process to get on the street. Finding a runner/driver would be the thing to do for a first classic as you most likely have little to no knowledge of antiquated fuel and ignition systems (carbs and dizzys with points). A non running solid car is what I usually buy, but I have the space and expertise to pull and overhaul engines and transmissions if the need arises (pic related). Overall, I won't try to dissuade you from buying a classic as it can be a very fun, fulfilling, and worthwhile way to enjoy the hobby. Just do not buy a rust bucket that is about dead just because it is the year you want, you are bot at that point yet and don't have the ownership experience to take on even a frame on restoration. A few tips below:
>Full size and 4 doors are your friends.
They can be had cheap and usually feature large, easy to work in engine bays. Most full sizes also got beefier suspension, trannys, and bigger engines.
>Rust is the cancer of cars
Bring a magnet and check the whole body. All old USDM cars were made of sheet steel and will be magnatized. Any dead spaces with the magnet means bondo, which isn't always bad just in moderation.
>Carburetors are actually simple
Contrary to popular belief, rebuilding and tuning a carb is fairly simple depending on the carb. The rebuild kits look a bit daunting if you see one, but a good fully clean rebuild can be done for under $100 and in under a day (I let my parts soak for a few hours).
>>14722919
>Currently, those are my only cars.
You sold the '59?
>Doing a 2002
Jesus christ kid what are you thinking
>>14724683
*DDing. fuggin autocorrect.
>>14724494
>I let my parts soak for a few hours
As an aside, this may not be a good thing depending on the carb. Those that have the zinc dichromate finish, like Holley's and QuadraJets to name a couple, shouldn't be soaked in cleaner any more than they have to be as the cleaner will damage and remove the finish. That finish also acts as a sealer for the relatively porous casting.
>>14724689
He's like the second one I've seen this week.
>>14724627
Yeah; it was too dull to drive.
>>14724707
I didn't mention it but you are correct. Most of my carbs have a natural or satin finish unlike the standard Holley finishes. My disregard for that info is shameful.
>timeforseppuku.jpeg
They;re not bad beginner cars, but as soon as you have a feel of a 302 or 351 in these cars, the period I6 and 289 becomes nothing
That said, a 289/302/351 engine is easier to get parts and has a much larger third party support base than the I6. Most mustangs with the 6 also got scrapped more frequently, were cheaper for a longer time and therefore not many will have survived to today.
The 6 in the mustang was more of a fashion accessory than anything, having the shape of the new mustang but with the economy of a Falcon. I like the 6 myself, its a nice engine base to learn on and wrench, but you will want the 8
>>14721473
>You don't need a race car to wrap around a tree. A regular car will do just fine.
fucking lol'd
>I crashed my modern car
>I should buy a car with worse brakes, suspension, and steering instead
The Beemer is a great idea, the Mustang less so.
Still, your money
