Help diagnose Jeep WJ...
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You are currently reading a thread in /o/ - Auto
You are currently reading a thread in /o/ - Auto
So /o/, I have a 2000 jeep WJ with the straight six engine. Jeep has roughly 157,000 miles on it. I seem to be having a very abnormal and modestly occurring symptom that I am.not very inclined to understand since I am not a mechanic.
Whenever I drive for a semi extended period of time in humid weather, I will have trouble starting my Jeep when I return to the vehicle. The vehicle WILL start, almost always, but it will be a very weak start with an immensely rough idle.
While this is happening, I can literally push the pedal to the floor and nothing will happen. On one occurrence, the vehicle stalled out. Once I get going at a decent speed, the problem usually fixes itself within the matter of a minute or so.
I never thought this was a great issue, more of just an inconvienece. I've pulled error codes over time and got an injector circuit fault a couple times a few months back and yesterday the cylinder with the alleged bad injector misfired. I heard two loud audible "pops" coming from under the hood, but as soon as I got moving again, the vehicle was fine.
I just recently replaced spark plugs, and this seemed to solve the issue for awhile. Now that I have codes for an injector on cylinder two AND a misfire on cylinder two, I am starting to believe my injectors are bad, HOWEVER I tested them with a voltimeter and saw no abnormal differences on the cylinder two injector.
Now I've also been told this is an issue of the CPS, a fairly common problem in the 4.0. Truthfully, I don't know what I should do. Replace all injectors? Replace CPS?
Do you honestly think it could be an injector?
Old spark plugs vs new spark plugs.
I'd also like to point out that my coolant is more of a thick brownish than orange. Any idea what that could mean?
>>14635261
That the coolant is old, basically. Just flush it m8.
>>14635252
>P0202 Injector Circuit - Cylinder 2
No its your left rear tire pressure too low.
I'd like to add that I'm getting an abnormally high oil pressure reading as soon as i start the vehicle. The dial pings the Max level on the gauge. I think this may be a completely separate issue with a bad oil pressure sending unit. Could this have any relevance? My engine temperature gauge is reading in a perfect range, and never exceeds the halfway mark.
>>14635252
Pull the plugs again. See if #2 looks different. Do a compression test. That'll rule out a mechanical problem with the valves.
>>14635286
I will do as you say, but I believe if there were an issue mechanically with my cylinder two, that the problem would be more reoccurring. Like I was saying before, I have this issue, and then I don't have it. It will sometimes happen 3 times a day or 4 times a week, but it may also go weeks (or even a month or two) without ever seeing anything remotely similar.
Throughout the winter I didn't have any problems with it, but as soon as the weather warmed back up, I noticed it again. I feel like humidity could have something to do with some sort of wiring or the injector itself, albeit unlikely. I may just be dreaming it up.
The vehicle has had this issue for well over 6 months. I'm just a tad bit more concerned since it caused some knocking yesterday for the first time.
>>14635339
Yea you're right. Try swapping the cylinder 2 injector with another one. If the code moves to the new cylinder it's the injector.
>>14635355
Did you not hear him? He doesn't think it has anything to do with the injector or circuit.
>>14635355
I think I'll try this. Thanks. It will be hard to diagnose though since the issue is so infrequent.
>>14635252
You may have a bad head gasket. Brown coolant as well as the lean plug condition woul dseem to suggest so.
The starting issue is more likely plug wires, or cap & rotor, as if moisture gets into either system, you'll have trouble starting.
Before dumping thousands into an old shitbox, start with what's cheap, then work your way up to what it might be. i.e. don't just dump money, get it looked at, or start cheap.
>>14635261
>dat gap
>>14635394
I was kind of thinking I might have a bad head gasket because I believe I am losing oil too, however I am not sure where. When I bought the shitbox, I changed the oil immediately to Rotella T5. I drained my oil after my first oil change and not nearly as much oil dispensed from the pan as I had put in (roughly half of what I put in). The lower portion of my block is thick with grease and I see no oil dripping anywhere near the vehicle on the ground.
Getting irate as fuck with this thing. Starting to feel like I got ripped. I've got three other reliable daily driver vehicles, but this shit tier Chrysler product has had so many fucking simple issues that it probably wouldn't have been worth pursuing if I didn't live in a shithole in rut county with a mud driveway and immense snowfall.
>>14635402
That's how the old plugs looked when I pulled them. The gap was nowhere near what it was supposed to be. Whoever installed them majorly fucked up.
>>14635406
Could be, but it's more likely burning it, or leaking it out of the valve cover.
Yeah, wjs are pretty shit, I'm not going to lie, but the engine itself should be among the most reliable, as long as you don't overheat it daily and change the oil once a decade. The engine isn't Chrysler-made, either. Only the head & intake was redesigned when Chrysler took over AMC
>>14635412
No, The gap increased because the engine has been overheated multiple times. It's not the engine, you got gypped by the previous owner.
>>14635424
Now that is some solid information. That's good to know. I still have the other spark plugs, so I'm going to go check them out now.
>>14635429
Good idea. Spark plugs can tell you infinitely more about long-term running problems than guessing.
>>14635431
This is two of the six plugs. It doesn't look like all of them had been exposed to overheating. Perhaps the one I pictured before was actually my cylinder two plug which would explain more of a timing issue than overheating, which could actually be the CPS, correct? Feel like I'm on to something now.
>>14635467
Well, if it was a timing issue, each cylinder would have the same issue. Considering that not all plugs look the same, it seems more like you're running lean or burning oil (more likely) rather than overheating. It's less likely they're lean because the fuel mixture is controlled by the computer, and the only thing that could really mess that up is a bad upstream o2 sensor, and even then, that would make it run rich.
>>14635252
Dude if you have an injector code you need to track that down first. I'm not saying you don't have something more serious going on but fix what is being presented as a problem first. I know you said you did an ohm test on the injectors but that doesn't mean shit because they work 99% of the time right? And that wouldn't show a physical problem like it sticking open.
>injector sticks open when hot
>fills cylinder with fuel while dropping fuel pressure to 0
>long start due to low pressure
>initial rough running due to 1 cylinder being flooded
>o2 sensor sees a rich condition and cuts back fuel on all cylinders...makes it run even shittier/stalls.
Either swap suspect injector to another cylinder or just replace it with a junkyard one or a fucking new one.
>>14635252
I once got those same codes on my 4.0, turned out one of my injectors was going bad. There's lots of info about it on Chrokee forum. I wound up swapping all my injectors for some better ones meant for a dodge neon, bought them on eBay for cheap and it stopped throwing the codes.
>>14635756
>swap suspect injector to another cylinder
this. clear the codes and see if it follows the injector. if it does, its most likely the injector. if not, it could be the wiring to the injector
Should I go ahead and replace all 6 injectors preemptively or just the one? I'm getting ready to order new ones, and a CPS since thats cheap.
Thanks for all the help /o/
>>14636139
Don't be a parts changer. Just swap the fucking injector and see if that's the problem before you go spend your money.>>14636139
>>14635252
Dude, just replace the injector on cylinder #2.
Get an OEM one only. You don't want some shitty aftermarket one that will have a different spray pattern than the others.
If you want to diag it and not throw parts. Swap injector #2 for another cylinder. If you get an injector code for a different cylinder you know the problem is isolated to to that injector.
