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>try to install aftermarket headunit in car cause old one
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>try to install aftermarket headunit in car cause old one dead
>everything connected
>no power
Fuck.
So am i gonna have to retrace the power wire into the harness or is there a way i can just feed a power cable from the headunit and directly connect it to the battery?

Im assuming a fuse is going to have to be set in the power cable at some point
>>
yeah if its 12v you can do that. might want a swithc too so it doesnt drain
>>
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>>14082106
Ya blew it
>>
Does it ground through the harness or is it one of those weird things that is supposed to ground to the body where you screw it in?
>>
>>14082161
Yeah its a 12v system.

Would it be wise to go
-battery connection
-wire
-fuse
-wire
-switch
-headunit
?

Also since its directly connected to the battery would it really have a parasitic draw even if the car was off?
>>
>>
>>14082186
well actually you might not wanna switch it completely off on second though cuz then it wont be able to save your stations and settings and shit. as long as you turn the thing off I dont think it would drain the battery enough unless you let it sit for like months
>>
>>14082182
I have no idea honestly.

Im trying to look it up in the Haynes repair manual i have and see if the wiring diagrams explain anything
>>
Post a picture of your wiring job
>>
Get a multimeter, and measure VDC from black to yellow and black to red when the car is on and off.
>>
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>>14082218
>inb4hurrtape
Top part is the adapter ends that connect to the cars original adapters.
The bottom adapter is the one that connects to the headunit.

The Power wire that connects to the back of the headunit is getting any power at all, ive already tried plugging it into the Original, the new headunit, and a different one i had laying around.
>>
99% of radios need two sources of 12v, one switched with the ignition, one that's always on. You probably only have one hooked up. Go get a test light or a multimeter at harbor freight or sears, they are 1 dollar at harbor freight, will come in handy later anyway. Find where the 12v is and where it's going with the ignition both on and off then check the ground with the ohmmeter
>>
>>14082258
No power to the aftermarket connector? What about at the splice and at where the OEM connectors enter the harness?
>>
>>14082252
>>14082273
I have a multimeter laying around in the garage, ill have to look for it in abit.

>>14082278
Ill find my meter and check in abit.

Gotta do some laundry real quick before the machine gets hogged.

If it makes any difference the old headunit would barely power on 1/2 the time. All the other lights worked fine in the car.
>>
>>14082299
Well I doubt there's anything wrong with what you did, then. Check the fuses and shit for corrosion. Check ground wires. Throw in a new fuse anyway. May just be such a bad nasty connection somewhere in there causing a voltage drop.
>>
>>14082315
I looked at some of the wires connected to the positive battery terminal and some of the wires look like shit, ill try to take a pic
>>
Are you sure the old unit was dead and not a symptom of another problem?
>>
>>14082432
It was fairly dead.
It was the original headunit from 1982, it wouldnt play any of the cassettes i have and would only pick up 1 local Christian rock station
>>
>>14082496
what's wrong with christian rock?
>>
>>14082518
Everything.
I dont enjoy it at all, plus i dont listen to the radio because its the same replayed shit.
Spotify/iheartradio master-race
>>
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Ugh got distracted, took some pics.
Looking for batteries for my DMM
>>
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Heres a pic from the Positive battery terminal
>>
>>14083647
Wow.

I'd be tempted to rewire the whole thing, I guess in your case trace the hot wires from the radio back to the battery and see if there are any bad connections.
>>
>>14083647
>Marrettes

Jesus....Wire the whole thing again somebody who doesnt know anything has been fucking with it.
>>
>>14083760
Im strongly considering rewiring everything.
This is the work of the PO.
Im gonna have to buy some more connectors and dig up my sautering iron, also prob stop at Radioshack.
>>
>>14083777
If you buy a decent length of 14 or 16 AWG stranded you should be able to do it no problem.

The big positive lead should go to a fuse block, tap off of that and not directly off of the battery. It's much safer, and in all likelihood you won't need the soldering iron.
>>
>>14083776
I know, it looks like shit and i hate it.
Thankfully that seems to be the only butchered parts of the wiring and nothing else is in worse shape.

Found batteries for my DMM btw.
Which wires should i test?
>>
>>14083806
Can i order a fuse block off Amazon and do it that way?
Also how many fuses should i have rigged up and how large of a fuse?

I have a sandwich baggy full of fuses in different sizes
>>
>>14083616
fuck, find a wiring diagram for you car and figure out what wires are what. Makes sure the plugs have all the pins you need. Or you you can cut the plugs and go wire to wire like I did. And if you run a power wire straight from your battery (with a fuse of course) you'll have to turn your head unit on and off every time.
>>
>>14082518
Its neither.
>>
>>14083825
Uhh what does the big positive lead go to?

You should have at least a computer, spark system, and fuel injection... Which are protected by fuses.
>>
>>14086118
The car isnt fuel injected though, its got a carb
>>
Units need two power sources:
One is a straight +12V that is used for utilities like station memory, clock memory and quick startup.
The other is a +12V that is either under the ignition circuit or the utility circuit (the one that is activated by turning the key in the first position), that is used to actually turn on and off the unit.

If your new unit has an ISO connector like the one in pic related (I can't really tell from your picture), the red and orange wires are the ignition+12 and the constant+12 respectively and they all feed into the same connector.
If you don't have an ISO connector, then the colours will probably be different, but new units and connectors always come with wiring diagrams in the instructions, so that is not a problem.

The best thing to do is to get the wiring diagram for your car and get the wires you need, but you can easily spot the two power sources with a multimeter or a test light.

Have you considered the option of blown fuses? Maybe you shorted the straight +12 when cutting and joining wires and you blown its fuse, which will prevent the unit from turning on
Thread replies: 33
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