Hey guys, I was thinking of making a ballistic plate, I was thinking maybe using 3/8 inch thick steel(mild), then hardening it after I cut it out, then use some Kevlar for Spalding, would that work?
Costing in hard rubber might be better protection against Spaulding
>>30555095
Shameless self bump. (Not mine)
>>30555252
Maybe a mix of the two?
>Kevlar over the rubber so Kevlar can be replaced every couple of years
>also to absorb some impact before it hits the plate
>what can be used for a trauma pad?
>>30555252
>Protection against Spaulding
Who is throwing basketballs at you, anon?
>>30555310
Kek
>>30555095
Mild steel is a total waste of time if you're serious about stopping a rifle round. You won't get it hard enough to help without making it so brittle that a shot will not crack the plate and go through.
>>30555362
K den, wat do? Harder steel? Manganese-steel alloy?
>Spaulding
>>30555394
Buy a sheet of AR 500 and get somebody to cut it. Preferably a water jet. A plasma will work too, although the edges will be slightly softer due to the heat from cutting. Using an acetylene torch on it will soften a wide area near the cut so don't.
>>30555431
But expensive, and could buy this to work with
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/220724897925?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmtid%253D1588%2526kwid%253D1%2526crlp%253D53601919689_324272%2526itemid%253D220724897925%2526targetid%253D173539346169%2526rpc%253D0.09%2526rpc_upld_id%253D72650%2526device%253Dt%2526mpre%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fulk%25252Fitm%25252Flike%25252F220724897925%25253Flpid%25253D82%252526chn%25253Dps%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9031562%2526poi%253D9031560%2526campaignid%253D239125209%2526adgroupid%253D14978428809%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-173539346169%2526gclid%253DCO_tpa3X5c0CFdKIfgodyxcJjA%2526srcrot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D1058990130136&ul_noapp=true
>>30555095
Mild steel is too soft to stop bullets and remain light.
One thing I've considered is two layers of perforated steel plates and an aluminum backing plate, with industrial rubber sandwiched inbetween
>>30555502
Hmm, would be thick though...
Expensive? Shit, my boss didn't quote me a price this high when I asked about a sheet of 3/8 ar 500. This guy is charging $2/lb when steel in CANADA is 55 cents in syrup money. Go find a steel distributor and talk to them. I'd never pay that kind of money for mild unless it was a finished part. You can do better and then you will have something worth having.
>>30555502
Why would you want perforated steel? When bullets go through things they perforate them, why would you want your armor pre perforated? Seems counter productive.
>>30555545
I could probably find some at my hardware store for like $10 desu senpai(for how large I need it)
>>30555587
3/8'' mild. My dad made a chicken (silhouette shooting) out of some 3/8 mild. His 150gr .270 with Hornady interlocks punched through it. He bought nickel rod and hard surfaced it. His 270 punched through. He hard surfaced again going crosswise to his original direction. It still punched through. This was at 300 yards. I have no respect for the capability of mild steel to do the job of armor plate.
>>30555647
OK, good to know, did he harden it in motor oil?
>>30555686
No. He used a nickel rod for an arc welder, and I don't specifically know what kind of rod. He called it a "hard surfacing nickel rod". Quenching in motor oil will somewhat help your plate but you're not going to significantly raise the carbon content of the plate. You will only effect the very surface of your plate and I expect it to be such a thin layer that a rifle will not notice. Mild steel by definition has .01% carbon it and nothing else(maybe some traces of crap they didn't get out). AR 500 has .31% carbon plus a bunch of other stuff to make it less brittle, take wear, and help it harden.
>>30555095
no youre fucking retarded
