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>>996960
Oh, you were faster. That guy looks like having mild down syndrome in that pic.

I broke the other surface mount LED from my heatbed pcb. Is it ok to replace it with any LED?

>>996966
He always looked like if he had some kind of retardation or deformity.

>>996960
why would anyone support peachy printer after those fuckwads embezzled all the kickstarter money

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could someone post a link for the DEFAULT firmware for a AURORA Z-605s prusa i3? i need them.

>>996997
post pic of control board

>>996998
It looks like it uses the fake hybrid melzi board.

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>>996998
here is the main board!

>>997001
Thats an MKS 1.3
Have fun

http://reprap.org/wiki/MKS_BASE

>>997004
PRAISE SLANNESH! THANK YOU!

>>997004
you are the GOAT.

>>997006
>>997005
Why do you need this?
Are you just putting this together for the first time?

You do realize you cant just load up Marlin and it will run correct, you have to input every single aspect of your printer into the marlin firmware before you flash it right?

The premade firmware I found for your printer uses a Melzi board which wont take a standard Marlin firmware.
Could you not find a pre configured firmware from where you bought it?

>>997008
Thanks! I just need DEFAULT firmware for upload to main board!

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>>997014
If the other poster wasn't clear enough: Marlin will not work unless you are able to define every setting correctly in configuration.h. Do not burn your house down.

>>997023
i have.

Anyone use an ATX PSU for a 3D printer before? I'm looking at the CX430 v2.3 but I've read some claims that it's not powerful enough for a heated bed because it drops a to like 11.6V on the 12V rail on unbalanced loads. Even with a voltage drop I'm not sure how it's possible for it to not power a heated bed, but it is just one claim. Others have reportedly used it fine, but who knows what their build was.

Is avoiding the high pitched fan whine of Chinese LED PSUs worth the money and hassle?

>>997061
Since the only rail you use in a printer is 12V, what I do is open up the box, and find the 12V adjustment pot and crank it. Almost all will get to 12.8V, but I've seen some as high as 14V. It's not much, but it will definitely overcome the drop and all the other electronics can handle it.

>>997064
Will that affect the PSU's reliability? It seems like ATX PSUs are more delicate than LED power supplies.

On the matter of heated beds, doesn't total wattage matter more than voltage?

>>997086
Turning up the voltage obviously makes it work harder and would probably reduce the life of the PSU.
With that said, you are going to pull 11 amps from the heated bed and 5 amps or so from the rest of ramps.

The CX430 is made to power a strong graphics card. It has a max of 32A on the 12V rail.
Ive seen a ton of older cheap 400w power supplies that from their rated specs would get nowhere near that much power out of the 12V.

Im not sure I quite understand the unbalanced load thing, but I cant see it being able to power a GPU and not reliably power a much weaker 3d printer.

I have the 30A 360w LED PSU, and the fan is kind of annoying, but its nice and easy to wire up and my printer has a ton of annoying fans all over it. You cant really get past having awful fans running on your printer, if you want CFM you get noise.

The 20A 240W LED PSU is out there for about the same price, and it does not have a fan on it. Though the more headroom you have, the less stress you are putting the PSU under. Its why I opted for the 30A even though I would never even hit 20a

My i3's heatbed has been randomly deciding to work and not work. Any idea why? I've checked the contacts, and they, well, contact. What other things could cause this issue?

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>>997202
If you are using a Ramps 1.4, pull the green power plug and inspect it.
Mine had the intermittent problem until one day it just stopped working. Everyone at first glance looked OK until I tried to unplug the green plug.

The connector is rated for 10A, and the Ramps will pull a peak of 11a and can literally burn the plug. This is especially prevalent if you are using thin gauge wire to connect Ramps to your PSU.

>>997215
Am I posting with multiple identities? I had exactly the same problem couple of days ago.

>>997174
>Im not sure I quite understand the unbalanced load thing, but I cant see it being able to power a GPU and not reliably power a much weaker 3d printer.

I'm not exactly an expert either or even that knowledgeable about PSUs, just stuff I learned from the PC community. A lot of ATX PSUs use group regulation so they expect all of the rails to have some sort of load. On PCs 3.3V, 5V, and 12V are all loaded most of the time except exceptional cases. They have trouble maintaining the exact specified voltage when there are imbalanced loads, like 0A or 1A on 3.3V and 5V rails but 28A on the 12V. Reviews of the old CX430 showed that with an unbalanced load the 12V rail could go down as low as around 11V I think.

Newer high end PSUs don't have that problem though. I looked at some reviews on johnnyguru and they have impeccable voltage regulation. But we're talking like $120+ units.

Anyway, I managed to pick up a used Rosewill Capstone 750W for $40 on ebay. Apparently only used for 6 months and in perfect working condition. It's a somewhat higher-end PSU that's manufactured by the best PSU OEM so I'm hoping it won't have any problems with imbalanced loads. I'm pretty sure I'm being overcautious and the CX430v2.3 would have been fine for what I'm planning to build, but it was a really good deal. I might even swap it out for the one in my PC, which isn't shabby itself.

About the fans. I've found 120mm fans on ATX PSUs are almost silent, but LED PSU fans sound like banshees to me. I have a Wanhao Duplicator i3 and I can't really say one fan drowns the others out, they have fairly distinct pitches and they annoy the hell out of me.

>>997271
Would dummy loads work to fix the imbalance?

I am going to build that Mostly Printed CNC, and since its using Ramps but wont have a hotend you have to dummy load the first Thermistor pins. I was actually soldered up and heatshrinked the resistor and a connector nicely last night. A 100k resistor makes your host read that the hotend is 25C, much easier than trying to kill the failsafes they built into the firmwares

>>997307
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story2&reid=239

I don't think it's actually necessary since the voltage drop due to load imbalance is actually pretty small, but it can't hurt.

So, I just got a Rostock Max V2, and I'm building it right now. (I just finished installing the PSU)

Any tips or recommendations?

I think I'll upgrade to a e3d hot end and get a smoothieboard in the future.

I'm planning a build for the FuseBox 2020 (FB2020) with dual hotends. I plan on using two direct drives ideally, just because I don't want to deal with bowden. I'd rather just give up some speed. What extruder should I be looking at?

I'll probably be using two Chinese E3Dv6 clones or a Chimera clone.

>>997484
Heard the e3d Titan is nice

>>997487
I'm all about E3D, but I think their Titan looks bad. It's A LOT of money for a plastic extruder. Also the design of putting the spinning stepper shaft through a hole in the plastic quick release and forcing it to rub against the plastic is terrible

>>997484
Whats wrong with Bowden?
It's not any harder than direct drive. you just have to set up retraction settings

>>997515
Most people seem to think bowden has more problems than direct drive, especially with large prints that take long printing times.

>>997560
The length of prints literally mean nothing in terms of bowden vs direct drive, how does that even make sense?

You only have to set retraction settings to not get stringing or underextrusion during dry movement while printing.
Its really not hard or that big of a deal.

>>997590
>The length of prints literally mean nothing in terms of bowden vs direct drive, how does that even make sense?
You want to speed printing up for large prints but oozing/stringing occurs more the faster you print.

>You only have to set retraction settings to not get stringing or underextrusion during dry movement while printing.
>Its really not hard or that big of a deal.
Then why don't all printers use bowden?

>>997601
Not 997590 but that's conflating speed and print size. Just because a print takes longer doesn't mean everyone is going to print faster. I don't, and I'm sure some others don't either.

Also, for what it's worth, bowden could be costing more to printer manufacturers (additional parts, such as PTFE tubing and hydraulic fittings, more printed components, and additional assembly process time), which may be why they are less common. Using a direct-drive would be a good way to save some costs for a diy-er or printer manufacturer.

I have a bowden drive system, and while one of my friends uses direct-drive and we have practically indistinguishable print quality. I can theoretically print faster but I still print slower than my max so my quality and structural integrity is high.

My only complaint for running bowden is changing filament takes slightly longer.

>>997607
>I have a bowden drive system, and while one of my friends uses direct-drive and we have practically indistinguishable print quality. I can theoretically print faster but I still print slower than my max so my quality and structural integrity is high.
What about resolution of small parts? Shouldn't a direct drive be more precise? The filament travels less from the extruder to the hotend so it will be less affected by the filament moving around. I know it's primarily a problem with flexible filaments but even some stiffer plastics are still pretty flexible in filament form.

Maybe I could use direct drive for the main hotend and bowden for the support material hotend? I mostly want the second hotend for support for small curved objects.

>>997601
>but oozing/stringing occurs more the faster you print.
Not if you have proper print settings, you are acting like direct drive extruders dont string without good retraction settings too.

>Then why don't all printers use bowden?
Really?
Are you trying to start an argument by inferring something that nobody said?

>>997610
>What about resolution of small parts? >Shouldn't a direct drive be more precise?

No, your filament is not flexible and there is very little slack in the PTFE tubing. Under load you are going to have literally the same performance, its going to push literally the same amount of plastic.
Like I have already said,will have to retract slightly faster and further to compensate for the minuscule slack in the tubing, thats the only difference in performance.

You are blowing everything way out of proportion.
Im betting everything you are reading about bowden being more difficult is 3-4 years old, and they were using 3mm filament.

There is a reason that Bowden has become more prevalent as the adoption of 1.75 has become greater.

>>997420
Mines in the mail. Keep us updated on how the build goes!

>>997513
>Titan is bad
So I just watched their video and... I honestly don't know how it's "better" than any other extruder.

>3:1 gear ratio resulting in increased resolution
Lots of them do that already
>easy access to the hobbed bolt
Okay, I'll give them that
>one screw adjusting pressure
And that, PITA to balance two for me
>Modularity
What makes something modular? The only "proprietary" extruder I've seen is MakerBot's.

I just don't really see the advantage vs. like, an E3D 6 or something.

>>997629
Alright, I'll take your word for it. For now.

Still need a recommendation for extruders.

>>997673
Modularity selling point probably has to do with pic related. Its E3Ds bowden adapter.

Its a PTFE tube bowden coupler pressed into an E3D mount. If you have a direct drive extruder that has an E3D sized hotend mount, you just shove this thing in and run your tubing.

And since their titan only has an E3D sized mount, you can switch between your hotend or the coupler to change between direct and bowden.
That and it accepts 3mm and 1.75

But that isnt a special feature honestly, you can use that coupler on literally any extruder with an E3D mount.

Also im not sure how much lighter it really is than other direct drive extruders, you still have a large stepper on it.

>>997690
Wades for direct drive, airtripper for bowden. Both work great and are extremely popular.

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>>997751

>>997752
How does the Wade's extruder compare to the MK8/10 extruder?

How well does ABS and HIPS stick to PVA?

should be "peachy printer is dead edition"

Oh shit, so I just realized that I missed 3 of the 6 sets of T-nuts on the base of my Rostock Max v2, and those that I did install are backwards.

Should I lift the top and towers off to fix my mistake?

>>997971
Halp

>>996960
>
>Should I fix my mistake?
Always yes.

>>998018
>>997971

>>997782
You mean those cheap stepper/extruder/hotend combo things from ebay?

Usually those things are the first thing people replace in those cheap printers.

>>998033
I think it's a makerbot design.

Where do you guys source your hardware?

I'm looking at almost $100 for some smooth rods from misumi and a chinese leadscrew.

Nuts, screws, and other miscellaneous stuff like T-nuts, belts, couplers, etc. makes up another $125

>>998239
Aliexpress is great for some of these things, sometimes 40-50% cheaper than eBay, but, at least in my country, buying certain things locally is the cheapest. Still, things like supported rails, ball bearings, ballscrews are by far the cheapest on Aliexpress, but with their crappy search it tends to take a while finding a deal.
T-nuts, aliexpress should have large 100-packs for $20, that's the cheapest they get, couplers and belts, eBay should be fine.

>>998241
How good are the rods you buy from Aliexpress? I assume Mismui's stuff will be super straight and have very precise machining.

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Trying to take the panels of my Solidoodle 4 from 2 years ago, and these screws aren't budging.

They are, or were, phillips head. Some are stripped. There's a round anchor or something underneath, do I need to get a better grip on this? They're not turning at all.

Want to get better access to clean off the rods and apply some fresh lube. Don't want to take the rotary tool to to use a flat head screwdriver if it isn't necessary.

Thanks.

>>998304
Use better screwdrivers.

>>998304
Make sure it's actually Philips and not JIS or Pozidrive or the variety of cross-shaped heads

>>998333
>>998330
Have tried a few different drivers and they all just strip the hole out to some extent, it almost me,tw away.

Will just brute force it and re-tap. Thanks for the suggestions.

>>998282
For a 3D printer, it really shouldn't make a difference. To begin with, you seem to intend on using rods instead of supported rods, and the former will bend a lot causing way more inaccuracy than the surface finish.

>>998451
Using cheap non hardened rods, the linear bearings wear grooves into them in a short period of time.

I'm looking to get into 3d scanning, specifically for larger, unmovable objects (statues, designs carved on buildings, etc). what are some software/hardware tools that /diy/ers use to scan? How do prints of scanned objects turn out? Ideally i want something that wont further limit the resolution of my printer.

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So, what the hell.

I've been trying to slice this model all day and I KEEP getting issues with it. The latest one is that there are entire layers just flat-out missing. Since Slic3r doesn't generate visible errors, just says that they exist, I have no idea what's going on. The model itself looks fine in MeshLab and Blender, so I don't even know what issues it could have.

Any ideas?

>>998729
Try Cura.

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>>998239
Banggood.com is a decent source in my experience (don't let the name fool you, presumably it loses something in translation from Chinese; pic somewhat related).

>>998451
What's a supported rod?

>>998780
Type of linear rail you dont typically see on these home 3d printers.

>>998785
Then why bring them up? I just want linear rods that won't come pre-bent.

>>998787
I wasnt that guy, im not sure why you would bring them up. They are vastly more expensive, so its pretty out of place to say when you are trying to get stuff cheaper.

>>997202
>>997215
>>997268

Oh man, you should see what we did when the hotbed kept failing...

I was fed up and installed like 20 mosfets in parallel with a hugeass heatsink and soldered the wires directly. in retrospect we shoulda used a relay or something.

hotbeds suck ass.

My prints warp in the same spot each time, helps?

Flat-ish things print fine. Smaller things print fine. But anything kinda skinny and tall warps always on the left side corner every time. Right side of the print will stick perfectly and everything else does too. The warp is nearly identical in every part I print.

I've tried to level the bed as best I know and the prints themselves seem even and not lopsided. I don't think I have under or over extrusion since for the most part I don't really get blobs or gaps (sometimes but uncommon). I do have a flashforge though and the bed leveling only seems to measure at the center, but the glass bed should help with that I think.

Enclosed Printer (indoors as well), Glass Heated Bed, ABS, bed coated in PET tape and abs/acetone mixture

I'm beginning to have doubts about building a coreXY.

Should I just upgrade my wanhao Di3 with dual hotends with bowden extruders or build a new corexy? The BOM started at around $500 and it seems to keep going up and I'm not so sure about printed parts in the frame.

>>998716
Check photogrammery. It is shit but basically the only cheap option.

>>998818
Front left corner?
Thats where your prints start right, probably not getting good adhesion when it begins playing plastic for the print.
ABS is so finicky and warps so easily.

Since you said its level and its still peeling, I would change your initial layer settings. Maybe try printing with a small raft.

FWIW, ABS has always been much harder for me to print than PLA has. I dont even like printing with it.

>>998978
whoops meant
>>998813

I'm thinking about adding a filament cleaner.
https://3dprint.com/18293/filament-extruder-filter/
Is mineral oil a good choice of lube?
I don't want to wind up having the lube break down my prints or bowden tube.

>>999273
I've been using soybean oil for awhile without issue. I think the smoke point is plenty high enough; just check that against your top printing temps.
Using a bowden drive and e3d v6, hottest printing is ColorFabb's XT-CF20 at 260deg Celsius.

>>999273
I have a small dust filter, but I always run it dry. I had never even heard of running oil on it.

>>999273
I used to use canola oil in mine, but the filament kept breaking at the filter because of the oil after a week of not printing.

Now I use it dry

>>999273
>>999287
>>999301
Where do you guys live that dust is an issue for your filament? I have my window open all day every day, and I live in the Mojave Desert, and have had zero issues with dust accumulating on anything but the bearings (since grease).

>>999314
Dust isn't particularly a issue for me, but the less particulate that makes it into the hotend, the less often I have to unjam it.

>>999314
Just because you dont see dust, doesnt mean your filament is clean. Dust and dirt is everywhere.

No my roll of filament doesnt have a visible layer of dust like its been in the attic, but you can very clearly see dust accumulating in my filament scrubber.

I actually go the extra distance, the roll of filament I would be using is on a roller sitting inside of a closed off plastic container.
The container has desiccant inside, and it has a PTFE coupler. The filament is literally shielded from dust and humidity all the way from the roll to my printer.

It takes very little time and money to do it.
Ive dealt with a wet roll of PLA, and it was awful.
I do think that the scrubber gives a marginal increase in print quality, while I know its keeping a lot of dust out of the hotend.

How is it so fucking impossible to get a good (not fucking babby's first or tiny ass) 3d printer for under $200?

>>999410
You must not understand that ,350$ printers are a miracle.
This is a niche market, it wasn't too long ago that a regular old Prusa i3 would run you 550$ or more.
You have to immediately dump money into the cheap printers anyways

>>999410
Does mommy not give you enough allowance?

>>999442
Okay. Let me break it down for you how it works in my head:
The only fucking part that is not used in other applications that are industrially sized is the specially made head.
Everything else is a fucking CNC machine.
What am I getting wrong here?
Why is an assortment of plastic rods and stepper motors six fucking hundred dollars?

>>999446
>What am I getting wrong here?

You are assuming that CNC parts should be cheap.
That itself is a very small market, and its usually an industrial one.

Why do you think you can pick up any hobby like this for cheap?

>>999453
Are motors and rods really that complex, comrade? Manufacturing costs cannot be that specific and inflated.
You are telling me I cannot run an arduino-based series of motors on a 6-inch steel plate with rods pulled out of a damned printer for less than $300?

>>999446
Just because something is CNC'd doesn't make it free if you're buying it already made. It's only free if you source out raw materials and find a way to get it all machined.

Your $600 number is double what a kit costs today.

Steppers cost money. A set of 5 will be at least $50. Then there are the linear rods and lead screws, the cheapest sets made from the shittiest metal on aliexpress are $30 a piece. Controller boards are another $30. V6 lite is $35. Shitty PSU is $20. That's already $200. Add in the frame costs and odds and ends for hardware and a heated bed and you're approaching $300.

Keep in mind that those are pretty bottom of the barrel quality parts.

Nice parts cost money. Niche parts cost more money. $300 printer cheap.

>>999458
I could source together a reprap for $200 if I wanted to. Its hard and it takes time, but it can be done.
I could do it for less than 100$ if I salvaged enough free parts.

But its obvious you are looking for a prebuilt or kit printer, with all the hard work already done for you, at cost of raw materials. It doesnt work that way.
The learning curve is steep in printing. If you cant even get look hard enough to find the 230$ printer kits how the fuck are you going to make it in the hobby?

>>997061

why not use 24V for bed?

>>999458
here you have some printers for a little more than $200 and one is even cheaper: https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/diy-kit

It is completely different thing if you get some rods and steppers from scrap. It can be done and it had been done: http://www.instructables.com/id/Scrap-3d-printer-for-under-100/?ALLSTEPS

>>999468
>hand feeding this huge whiny faggot

>>999469
I just wanted him to stop.

>>998818
why do you have doubts? I was thinking about core xy, because I want to make heated chamber, so I want to move steppers out of heated chamber, so they would not overheat.

Does anybody know how industrial printers prevent motor overheating if they are using heated chamber?

>>998729
in 3D views, does the info panels tells you it corrected errors ?
If so, model is no perfect and Slic3r failed to correct errors. It is not very good at that.

try another program to correct your model. Windows10's 3D builder worked all the time for me, to my surprise.

>>999475
>why do you have doubts? I was thinking about core xy, because I want to make heated chamber, so I want to move steppers out of heated chamber, so they would not overheat.
>Does anybody know how industrial printers prevent motor overheating if they are using heated chamber?

I'm looking at the FB2020 plus (Fusebox 2020, offshoot of the fusebox). It's large but it mostly uses 3d printed parts for the frame's joints. Stuff like corners, hotend carriage, smooth rod holders, etc. And unless I go with the cheapest Chinese stuff the bom is around $600-700, which seems like a lot for something that might not actually be stable.

>>999548
Have you looked at RobotDigg for parts?
They sell parts real cheap.

>>999553
Agree that the prices are good, but shipping and duty was pretty brutal (to Canada anyway).

>>999553
I'll take a look thanks. But I already tried to get decent deals on non-junk parts and the lowest I could go was about $600 with non-chinese/ebay electronics and E3Dv6 clones from US ebay stores.

>>999548
It is probably stable as any other reprap. But I would make a couple of changes in design. I am commenting on this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1313587
Those corner brackets should be a bit bigger and should have two holes for each extrusion profile.
Extrusion profile that is diagonally on sides should be on the other diagonal, so it would form triangle between back side and top side. This would improve rigidity between z axis and x-y plane. Therefore the rest of the frame is not really needed. You need top square and back square and triangle on the sides. And you can mount it directly on to the wall. This way you can save 5 extrusion profiles and some corner brackets.

>>999570
I'd like to use aluminum corners but most corners seem to use M5 screws so I need to revise the BOM. It also drives the cost up like 20 bucks on top of everything else.

I also don't like that the X and Y rod holders just hold the rods in by friction. And he's still in the process of revising the build. I can design new parts myself but I'd rather avoid experimenting.

Your half box idea is interesting but I don't think I'm going to drill that stuff into my wall, especially since I'm renting and I might be moving in a few months.

>>999479
I stuck it into NetFabb and it worked perfectly. I only wish it told me what the problem was so I could avoid it next time.

>>999553
These prices are a little unbelievable and they'd save me a decent chunk of cash. Do you know how good they are because the prices make me suspicious. I'd hate to buy junk that I'm going to end up replacing in a month.

>>999623
Oh, I spoke too soon. It's another chinese shop and the shipping is killer.

>>999623
I'm the Canadian guy who got reamed on duty; the quality of the motors is excellent (standalone and integrated leadscrew), as are the metal motor mounts, but the corner braces are not so great. Overall I was pleasantly surprised and would buy from them again.

>>999626
The shipping makes the motors I need more expensive than what I can get locally and I'm worried about import fees, though I think the chances of getting any are low. I'm in the US and I usually don't get hit by import fees afaik. That or I have some outstanding bill I don't know about that I was never notified of by my post office or delivery services.

I really don't think it would save me any money.

>>999627
I'm not sure how it works in the US. Here it was shipped via DHL and they won't release the package until the duties are paid. For me it was still a good deal (I want to say ~$12/motor all in, but it was a couple years ago and my memory fails me). I'm really fond of the motors with integrated leadscrews, but those were quite a bit more.

>>999585
>I also don't like that the X and Y rod holders just hold the rods in by friction.
I didn't even notice that. I was paying more attention to those poorly designed corner brackets.

I am planing to design it myself over the summer. Right now I am thinking about buying cheap chines i3 with profiles (something like: https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/diy-kit/flsun-3d-metal-frame-prusa-i3-diy-kit). I never had any experience with that kind of printer, so I want to see if it works/ how it works. Then I can make my own design (maybe even that half box) using the same components, probably core xy with heated chamber, e3d hotend, etc.

>>999460
>controller boards are $30
You can get a fucking C.H.I.P. and run some open source controllers on it for $5.

>>999461
Not fucking whatsoever. I want _cheap_, and that means waiting until I get good deals on parts. I fucking deconstruct printers on the side.
It just really weirds me out that this entire thread here is based on "kits" (where the fucking parts are essentially plywood with a different finish) that are through the fucking roof. This is do-it-yourself, not let-the-marketer-tell-you-that-you-did-it-yourself.

>>999654
>$200 alu frame i3
>THROUGH THE FUCKING ROOF PLYWOOD SHIT
Then build a better, cheaper one, you homo, nobody's stopping you

>>999654
>This is do-it-yourself
And the 3d printer is your tool.
Retard

>>999668
Except they come in fucking "do it yourself" (meaning "we charge you the same price and you are the chinese laborer this time") kits. They are in the motherfucking top post.

>>999669
what's a "top post"?

>>999671
I get tired of typing "OP" when I get pissy.

>>999672
OP actually gives you both options, even makes fun by calling them "buyfags"

>>999672
Are you by any chance the same person who is trying to build the outhouse???
>>999183

>>999673
And no "How to make your own with scrap" guide.

>>999675
w-what...

>>999654
>is a literal poorfag
>talks about how he wants a cheap printer here
>>999410
>when he realizes that things actually cost money (fox and grapes) he bitches and complains about people who bought a kit
then suddenly
>>999676
>brags about "deconstructing printers" like its a skill
>somehow needs a guide to put some scrap together

Literally the dumbest poster I have seen in this thread in forever.
A 15 year old who hasnt taken his meds,

>>999681
>is a literal moneywaster
>brags about being a buyfag
>has absolutely no personal skills (flaming isn't a skill, retard)
>posts insults on 4chan as if the users are sensitive to it

>>999682
I find this hilarious.
On one hand you complain people are buying kits.
Yet on the other hand you are literally going to have to buy 90% of the same exact parts, but you are going to end up paying more in the long run. These chinese factories buy things in bulk at such low prices you could never compete.

And then you pull the horse shit of "doing it yourself" when you are going to download someone elses Ardiuno firmware. You are going to buy someones Ramps ciruit. You are going to buy someones traced heatbed and built hotend.

The only unique "do it yourself" part of your build will LITERALLY be the frame.

You have no idea what you are talking about, and you are sperging out because for some reason you only have about 200$ in the bank.

Throwing around the words "moneywaster" and "buyfag" doesnt change how fucking retarded you are being.

>>999682
>personal skill

>crying there isnt a guide on how to build something from scrap

kek

someone's meds didn't work... were they "diy" as well?

>>999686
You act like "scrap" is anything other than "shit you got yourself."
I get why these are so expensive: Because you guys keep fucking paying so much for them. You all think you are part of some entitled group of greats, when the work and effort is entirely on the people you just toss money at.
No wonder you have a list of fucking places to print your shit for you.
None of this is fucking /diy/ at all.

>>999688
Do you know what board you are on?

>>999691
Yes, now take them and stop sperging.

>>999692
>>>/b/

>>999689
>You all think you are part of some entitled group of greats, when the work and effort is entirely on the people you just toss money at.

Here is the problem. You are the only one trying to jerk yourself off over how diy you are.

And the thing is, you wouldnt be having this nervous breakdown if I would have linked you one of the 200$ printer kit earlier when you asked.

It sounds like you arent mentally stable, so I can understand the need to put good labels on yourself. To show people you have an actual "hobby" instead of your true nature.

But this is a multifaceted hobby. Putting together and tuning a printer from a kit is a very steep learning curve in itself. The fact its cheaper to buy a kit than to piece one together means that most people are going to buy kits.

The whole process of printing is what the hobby is about, not trying to cobble something together for cheap because you have no money.

You need to calm yourself down.

Which is worse

This or Delta vs Cartesian?

>>999694
Through all of my research, I could not find a decent printer kit (or scrap guide) for under $300, and the links at the top start at $500, so it is more about me discussing the state of the OP than anything else.
Stop double-spacing your single-line responses--it proves that you are from Reddit.

>>999699
You did a bad research. I have given you links for cheap printers and for scrap guide like 50 posts ago.
See: >>999468

>>999699
>grammar
>reddit

Thats one way to deflect I guess.
There are literally people who regularly post ITT who have bought and posted pictures of their 220$ printer kits. And the way print quality scales between printers, they are considered decent printers that put out real good prints.

You spent 2 hours and somehow couldnt find a scrap guide (they exist, there is a name for it, and there are a ton of people who have done it) or one of the many cheap printer kits.
Thats not justification to have a meltdown ITT.

It just means you dont have the patience for this hobby.

>>999702
See
>>999654
>This is do-it-yourself, not let-the-marketer-tell-you-that-you-did-it-yourself.

>>999704
Not whatsoever. I presented the rebuttal on the first line, and the second line was giving you something to think about, which you immediately did (by changing your spacing habits).
>there is a name for it
Ah? Give me a push, and I will gladly jump off the cliff.
If you consider that a meltdown, then I hope you never piss someone off in real life.

>>999697
This what?

Deltas have one type of configuration, the tall 3 rail system. Cartesian has many different configurations like coreXY, h-bot, prusa-style, etc.

Deltas' best feature is that they can be extremely cost-efficient, with even cheapo $350 kits achieving excellent quality while hitting high speeds. But you usually sacrifice a lot of build x-y build volume at low prices.

Once you hit around $500 in budget and get access to corexy the difference probably disappear in quality for speed you can achieve. Prusas, because of the mass of the moving bed, usually have a hard time hitting the same speeds as deltas while maintaining quality, but corexy should come very close with bowden while having wider x-y space.

>>999709
Im glad we have all calmed down now.
The term you are looking for is

>>999713
Lets not start this again eh?
Especially with throwing the coreXY meme out there.

>>999699
>--it proves that you are from Reddit
>the "top post" autist

>>999723
Is the original post not at the top of the thread for you? Are you using some sort of upvote resorter extension?

Is 24V worth it? Been reading about troubles hitting 100+C with 12V PSU and heated beds.

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Allright odd story.

Got a hamster a few weeks ago. found out that all hamster toys suck so wanted to design my own. Made a cube. It has a maze inside. I call it the A-Maze-Ing Cube.

looked for a place to print it, found out it costs at least 200 euro to print such a thing. So I bought this.

What am i getting myself into. Just got it in and it doesn't have a manual.

>>999785
There is a lot of work involved with putting the printer together.
Take your time to keep everything square. It will make your life so much easier later down the road when you are tuning it. First build takes quite a while to get it down.

A lot of those chinese printers are very similar so here is the build instructions for a close printer. Should give you what you need to piece it together, you may have to find something else for the electronics or whatever else is different.

http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/Acrylic_Prusa_I3_build_instruction%288mm%29

Just got a makerfarm pegasus 10" in the mail.
It's about 3/4ths built and i'm loving working with the aluminum v-slot extrusion.

The quality of the printed parts were really poor though. The extruder arrived kinda mangled up and a lot of the nut recesses were too misshaped to trap a nut inside.
The instructions leave a lot to be desired too, so it's time to completely wing this thing.

I may just straight up buy a better extruder setup, some more rails and completely close in this thing.

>>999626
Hey Canadianbro did you order any linear bearings from that shop too? If you did, how were they?

I've found that if you buy a crapton of stuff the estimated shipping actually isn't that bad, it scales really well.

Rostock Max v2 anon here, I finally finished building and calibrating, and now I'm doing my first print. Everything looks great so far!

>>999769
I've only just got a delta style, so I can't compare the two, but it was piss easy to calibrate, and my first every print looks pretty nice too!

>>999697
I'd go for it. My onyx rev7 takes ages to hit 90c.
I had to cover it with a towel to reach temp in a reasonable time.
I'll probably just build an enclosure instead of changing beds though.

>>999707
You asked for a $200 kit. We gave you exactly that and now you're bitching that it's a kit?

>>999724
>upvote resorter extension

I bet that's some reddit shit

>>999785
Be wary that you might not be able to print the maze as is. There are limitations to printing overhangs and bridges without support materials, so tunnels may be a problem.

Upgrading from 8mm threaded rod, should i go with 1 or 2mm pitch lead screws?

>>1000003
Either should be fine, although I think 2mm pitch is more common (so maybe cheaper and easier to find replacement nuts for should the need arise). Neither should have an impact on your z-resolution as the microstepping makes it such that you'll never hit a practical resolution limit.

>>999799
I did buy some linear bearings, but I got the self-lubricating graphite kind to try them out (not recommended, just because they make annoyingly loud swishing noises when printing).

I also ordered a lot of stuff to minimize the shipping, but that made the duties much higher as well.

The only thing I bought from there that I wouldn't recommend is a stepstruder, but only because it's a shitty design generally (not Robotdigg's fault); the components for the stepstruder were decent quality overall. Also, if you buy supports/clamps for linear rod the be aware that the quality control is hit-and-miss, so buy extras just in case.

>>999879
Made a quick promo video. Do you think this design will be a problem?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brSrc9MI0wA&feature=youtu.be

>>1000043
I cant view it because sony music entertainment blocked it from my country

>>999795
Slap it together and then the first set of real prints should be replacing all the bad parts.

My first set of printed parts were fucking horrible, and the company I bought them from refused to replace them. I have to glue a few pieces together to get my printer working.

>>999843
You can add insulation to the bottom of the bed to retain heat, makes it heat up much quicker.

>>1000043
>>1000047
let's try it this way then

https://vid.me/VIeb

>>1000043
>>1000050
Thats a real tough print, which would need support and someone who knows their printer very well.
Its basically one large bridge torture test for a printer.

Also using circles that large is tough.
For the round openings that are vertical walls, the top of the circle are massive overhangs.
The the whole circle in the horizontal position walls, they are unsupported and going to fail to gravity

You can get away with having solid horizontal walls, because your printer will bridge from one side to the other. It takes a well calibrated printer with the absolute correct settings though.

Using support would be problematic because im not sure you would be able to actually clean out the inside of the print.

If you removed every circle and made every opening just a square, it would be much easier to print.
Once you get your printer up and running, start calibrating for overhangs and bridges. If you can print some of the torture tests without failing you might be able to print it.

>>1000054
Ah, so I should adapt the design to make it a couple of flat parts that slide into eachother?

Thanks

>>1000033
Thanks. Somehow you read my mind and knew I was interested in supports/collars too. Good ones cost as much as smooth rods themselves so I'm not surprised the quality varies given how cheap they are.

I don't suppose you've tried one of their PSUs too?

>>1000043
It's best to part it out into sections and glue or tape things together. Also, the video got blocked, only seeing a thumbnail here.

>>1000033
>>1000099
Is there any reason you're buying from that store and not from eBay/aliexpress? I doubt that the items you're getting are any different and unless the shipping is proportionally really cheap at RD, it's probably cheaper

>>1000105
It has another anon's vote of confidence, which sounds good to me. With ebay and aliexpress it's hard to tell because at best you're dealing with russians who leave two word reviews.

And besides the motors most of the things I'm picking from RD are common items like springs, belts, ball bearings that come out a little cheaper than ebay or other north american stores (because of the savings on shipping). I'm still on the fence about chinese electronics and linear bearings but they're in the cart for now. I think the electronics will be fine, I've never heard of serious problems with chinese clones, but I might just get misumi bearings to match the rods.

>>1000119
Chinese electronics are extremely cheap. Even if you somehow happen to end up with a faulty device, you can usually get a full refund, but if by some miracle you can't, just buying another one is still cheaper than buying a single "official" or brand-name version. I've been using $20 worth of eBay electronics to drive a CNC router and there are no issues whatsoever. The bearings I got off aliexpress weren't a 100% tight fit, but that can be solved by getting SBRxxUU types, ones that are open on one side, because you can adjust their tightness.

>>1000099
No, but I've had good luck with: http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-12V-30A-360W-Switch-Power-Supply-Driver-for-LED-Strip-Light-Display-220V110V-p-39987.html
I have two and they're both great (and the shipping is free, albeit slow as hell).

>>1000105
I've bought parts from all over, it just happened that Robotdigg was a good deal for what I needed at the time.

>>1000127
>>1000127
I have 2 repraps , and im building the Mostly Printed CNC using the same chinese clone arduinos, cheap stepper drivers, and Ramps 1.4 boards

Stuff seems to be pretty solid. I even blew out one of my Mega boards by screwing up an endstop. So I own 4 different Arduino clones, all 4 look different, but they all work.

They cost like 7$ from china, and a real arduino is over 50$. You cant really buy nice Ramps boards. Im not sure I would benefit by spending more honestly, unless you step up to something very nice like a RAMBo

>>1000134
I would recommend that PSU aswell. I have 2 of them, 30A 360W.
I bought them on Amazon for about 25$ aswell. Under the "supernight" name.

Ive used one extensively on my first printer since early 2014 and its been solid.

>>1000134
That's actually a pretty good price for a 360W PSU, but
I'm still on the fence about using 24V or 12V.
I have one spare 240W 24V PSU, but then 240W might not be enough at 24V, even if the heated bed draws less amps, the steppers draw the same, and the heater in the nozzle might need a step-down converter since I could only get a 12V extruder.

What soldering irons do you guys use?

>>1000183
W.E.P. 937D, cost about $50, compatible with 900M tips. It's a station though, not an iron.

>>1000191
I don't see a WEP but I do see a Kendal of the same model. Some reviews look pretty bad for $50.

I just need a cheap iron to replace some fuses on a RAMPS. I'm looking at the $16 Vastar chinese iron but I'm wondering if I should be worried about static.

>>1000183
I just use the 5$ 40 watt ones you find at the hardware store. Use it till the tip is shot

I also have a 15w radioshack one I used a long time ago to put together guitar pedals.

Ive never felt a need to get a high end iron, cheap ones work perfectly fine, and the tips last long enough.

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Anyone know what is the real model and manufacturer of this new Monoprice "MP Select Mini 3D Printer" rebadge?

Anybody using meshmixer that could help me?
My models were being displayed in gray, but I imported an obj and now they're all red. I'd very much like to get the gray back

>>1000323
>cantileverbot

Aaaand dropped.

>>1000048
yeah i had to glue the nuts into place

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1001065
im liking the looks of this printer

The whole open builds site is nice.
might look into making a laser engraver next, from there.

>>1000363
Is there any real advantage to using wheels on a v-slot over just smooth rods?

>>1000358

Not him but whats wrong with that machine?

>>1000363
That's an interesting design. But doesn't having two z-axis motors lead to some misalignment? But overall it looks much better than the FB2020 I was planning to build.

>>1000423
Nothing, especially at its price point.
Printrbot and Printrbot metal have been known to put out real good prints, even with the weird design.

>>1000454
>But doesn't having two z-axis motors lead to some misalignment?

There are a lot of printer designs like that with dual Z axis steppers. You are running both steppers off of one stepper driver so the input would be identical. As long as both steppers are the same, they should move exactly the same.

>>1000466
It actually happens to my di3 and I need to align the Z-axis horizontally by pushing them to the top or exactly equal posts after a few prints usually. If we were talking about $100 industrial quality leadscrews I wouldn't be worried, but I think most of us just use chinese ones because they're 1/5 the cost with free nuts.

>>1000402
Really smooth rods would work as well.

I really like the v-slot as far as being able to attach other things to it such as limit switches and other sensors.

If i found some really nice rails and a linear bearing setup that worked well, i would use it too.

The extrusions in my case are pretty cheap.
I can sometimes get off cuts for free.

>>1000454
FB2020 doesn't seem so bad.
I've just had terrible luck finding rods to my picky satisfaction.

>>1000466
Bingo.

>>1000472
Weird.
I have an I3 and I use cheap threaded rod, not even cheap lead screws.
I have never had my Z axis get wonky on me, I only have to calibrate the two when I pull it apart or something.

>>999769
Consider insulating the underside of your bed and minimizing drafts. Mine will hear up to 100deg C in around 10-12 minutes without issue, as long as I have the ceiling fan in my office off. The underside of my bed has two slabs of cork (cut down square toes like you can find at many craft stores), which are sandwiched between the heatbed and the steel Y-carriage. I typically print with my bed at 85deg C (for ColorFabb's nGen) and that only takes around 8 minutes from room temp (19-20deg C).
Also, make sure you have heavy-enough gauge heatbed wires so it carries full current.

>>1000481
Fucking autocorrect. *heat, *ones, etc.

>>1000481
What gauge do you use? And do you use a solid state relay? Apparently the RAMPS 1.4 can't handle high currents, which is another concern I had with 12V. And losing current over length.

I also wanted to build an enclosure and add a PC fans to vent outside, to avoid ABS and other fumes. I'm worried a 12V might have trouble in that sort of condition, though it is a pretty hot summer.

>>1000472
I haven't had any issues with Z axis leveling and I'm using el cheapo M5 threaded rods

>>1000488
I use 16 gauge stranded wire (orchard from ebay as 'automotive wire'). Works fine for me, but I'm using a Megatronics v3.0 rev. F board, the single-board combination of an Arduino mega 2560 and the Ramps shield.

I don't have any experience with an enclosure though since I don't print with ABS.

>>1000554
What's the max temp it can reach? Time to heat isn't a deal breaker but I definitely want to hit temps to print ABS and more exotic filaments.

>>1000479
>>1000550
I've found my Di3's bed rarely requires any releveling, instead the Z-axis just needs to be squared and everything will be tight. Maybe you guys are compensating for it by leveling the bed?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q3iNa1TDWdI
>that infill percentage and failed print.

>>1000587
>prints from sd
>the computer shows progression

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>>1000559
Thats the thing, my bed rarely needs re leveling either.
I dont even level my Z axis to my bed, I level it to my frame using the smooth rods
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:280974

I replaced the bed springs with soft silicone tubing like pic related, with lock nuts on the adjustment knobs.
Its rock solid, a lot less movement than the springs were.
Since I changed to the silicone I have probably printer 30+ hours, havent even looked at the bed level as it hasnt moved.

Maybe you need to check your Z couplers if your Z keeps slipping.

>>1000559
Highest I've taken it is 100deg C, just to see if it'd hit it. My PID tuning was done to 85deg C, since I print at that temp the most. I can check and see how high it goes later when I'm back home.

>>1000587
>let's check the print when it's halfway done!

>>1000697
You don't have to, don't want you to burn out your electronics or something. I'll probably just go with a 24V PSU

I work for 3D Systems ama

>>1000732
You work for a patent troll, you're what's wrong with this world, I hope you die miserably.

So I've heard legend that with all the settings done right its possible to print ABS to glass without anything to act as glue.

I cannot achieve this unicorn so what adhesive should I try next?

ABS juice seems to be failing, perhaps too low an amount of ABS in it but I put more than recommended when it didn't work the first times.

Blue tape can't seem to take the heat or maybe its the humidity.

Elmers glue stick worked but makes such a mess that the print never comes totally clean.

Anything in particular I should look for in a hairspray? (I have a brand that could pull off the Something About Mary look)

>>1000869
I've never heard of that, but if it's possible it's probably by turning the heat bed temp up to like 120-130 (probably more desu) so the ABS will mold onto the glass like PLA does on hot glass. And of course, keep it enclosed in a temperature controlled enclosure.

ABS's not sticking to glass is because it reacts very badly to quick cooling and it will shrink, i.e. it'll curl off the glass.

>>1000869
>>1000888
I've also not heard of this. AFAIK a clean ABS/glass interface would grab TOO well and end up cratering the glass when you try to remove the printed part.

>gluestick makes a mess
That's weird. I just rinse my prints off and they're good to go - you sure you're getting the water soluble stuff

>hairspray
Worked for a while, then I just stopped using it entirely.

I've had good results using just a kapton tape sheet, but that's on my old printer which isn't nearly as high quality as my current one (PrintrBot LC / Prusa i3). Maybe that'll work? If not, I know they release some specialty pads which grip well when warm and are flexible to pop prints off, but I forget the name right now.

>>1000891
I've got PET tape on it already, but that alone doesn't do it.

Its the water soluble stuff it just gets really stuck in the groves and then you run into the build up on the bed itself too. So I wanted to move away from this despite the fact it works well. I was using it with the original metal bed which had a 3M tape like sheet on it. Worked, but was a mess and often caused the bed tape color to pull off on the print. So glue stick worked really well, but the post processing was getting out of hand.

Supposedly ABS/acetone is suppose to be super effective, but I've yet to hit the magic ratio on that.

Why do so many heatbeds not mention the max currents they can handle at different voltages?

>>1000732
How does it feel knowing your company will be dead and sucking stratasys cock in hell within the next 5 years?

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Are the eBay 3D printer kits like

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151561635125?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

any good?

>>1000043
Just laser cut some plywood to make the inner structure and then make a housing for that. The only reasonable way to print this is SLS.

>>1000732
Can you give me the name of the engineer who developed your sense 3d scanner. I want to tell him in person that the product is a total piece of shit and he should feel bad.

>>1001095
They are perfectly fine

There is also other printers like
https://folgertech.com/products/folger-tech-reprap-2020-prusa-i3-full-aluminum-3d-printer-kit
which has aluminum extrusion frame for the around the same price. Really good bang for buck, while getting a metal frame.

Or the Delta style printer for slightly more
https://folgertech.com/products/folger-tech-kossel-2020-full-3d-printer-kit

If you love that ebay printer, you can actually buy the same or similar one from China on aliexpress for less money, if you wanted to wait a long time to get it. I know someone on here bought one during some sort of sale and it was like 220$

>>1000732
What do you do? Marketing, production, R&D?

Does your company consider it a business failure that you did not get involved in cheap desktop/home 3d printers or that you had underestimated its potential ? Did anybody got fired for that? Do you even consider companies like Ultimaker, Printrbot, Lulzbot,... as a competition?

Do your FDM printers have heated chamber? How high is the temperature and where are you buying cooling fans? Usually fans for electronics are rated for 70°C, and I am having trouble finding fans for, let say, 120°C for heated chamber.

Anyone use a PEI sheet or a Gecko Tek bed?

Is it worth it over just a regular metal or glass bed?

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I apoligize for for probably sounding like a nooby cunt beforehand.

I've build this, very proud. Still deciding on the name between "Sir Prints-A-Lot" and "The Artist Formerly Known As Prints."

But now i've finished building it. Lights all light up and stuff, but the instruction on how to level this thing are absolute gibberish. I don't even know what the starting position of the print head should be. Are there any solid instructional videos anywhere?

>>1001276
Just set the Z axis to 0, it should be under control, then move the X and Y axis manually with a sheet of paper under it. Adjust the screws so the sheet barely fits between the bed and the hotend, mantain the distance at the four corners.

>>1001265
I use pei on glass and the results are significantly better. be aware though, if your adhesion issues are from bad leveling, they will persist

>>1001332
Definitely not leveling. Just a case of larger parts with then angled corners. Apparently diamond shapes are a motherfucker.

>>1001354
Brims are helpful. Also, if you're designing your own parts you might consider sacrificial "tabs" added to problem corners. PEI and gluestick have never failed me for ABS.

>>1001382
Tried brims and even rafts. Gluestick works really well just makes too much mess, which is why I was looking for other stuff. So did you just find and stick a thin piece of PEI to your glass?

Assuming you printed an offset to keep it from hitting the hotend?

>>998756
>Banggood

bang means good in chinese, so banggood basically mean extra good.

>>1001425
I guess Bonggood was already taken

>>1001427
>>1001425
>>998756
It actually is the best chinese page I know of.
[spoiler]>>1000000[/spoiler]

Anyone here done anything with makerslide? Is it cheaper/more accurate vs getting regular slot extrusion and putting some v rails on them?

I have access to a fairly large CNC at work that I could get a 2m length of aluminum extrusion (almost) perfectly square and flat then machine and grind a few lengths of the outer v rail addon to similar specs.

>>1001420
I pretty much just followed: http://reprap.org/wiki/PEI_build_surface

Bought the PEI and 3M double sided tape on amazon and stuck it to one of several borosilicate glass plates I use. My preference is to physically relevel the bed/"rezero" the z rather than software offset, but either should work. I still use glue stick on the PEI even though it's probably overkill, but I hate losing prints to warp and have never have any problems getting the glue residue off.

Are there any good gray ABS filaments? And is ABS the best I can do for wear resistance? Making joints for an action figure.

>>1001545
Hatchbox, and arguably. ABS is fairly good for wear as long as you're not planning to be fiddling with it for hours at a time. If you are, you can always drop some ABS goo (acetone+ABS) in the joint to add another layer in.

>>1001546
Hatchbox is unavailable for some reason. How is PETG? I can't seem to find gray PETG but I might just take a risk and try painting it.

>>1001545
Nylon is pretty good for wear resistance and takes dye well. Not sure about painting it.

Has anyone else oiled or seasoned their hotend before?

My E3DV6 started jamming with a new roll of filament. Pulled it apart and cleared it, went to an old roll that never jammed in the past. It jammed right away.
My nozzle is the original and I have run probably 10kg of PLA through it.

I tried the canola oil trick, and it fixed it right up.
I just finished a 12 hour print and the print quality is visibly better. Im thinking it had been slowly been getting worse as time went on before it started jamming hard.

>>1001674
what trick?

>>1001674
I use corn oil in my dust filter (when I remember to put it on after filament changes) for the same effect. Seems to work very well for me.

>>1001686
dipping your filament in something like canola oil, then pushing through a heated up hotend to "season" a nozzle thats jamming.

>>1001702
I'll keep that in mind.

>>1001635
Isn't nylon a very elastic material? Can it print okay on bowden? And I've heard the interlayer adhesion isn't as good as hard plastics.

>>1001824
Bowdens have issues with "flexible" filaments like ninjaflex, because it bends like a rubber band. Its also makes it really hard to print in general.

IIRC nylon is flexible, but not to the point it would stretch and contract like a rubberband during retractions.

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>>1001276
Got my first two prints done today. Thanks for your help /diy/.

>>1001937
noce robent! :)

Can you guys recommend high quality brands for HIPS, ABS, PETG, and nylon?

I was going to buy from ToyBuilderLabs during the sale but something came up yesterday night and I completely forgot. I figure if I'm not going to save money I might as well just spend a little more on better stuff.

>>1001937
Looking pretty good for a first couple prints.
Dont fall into the trap of "it lays plastic, lets print a bunch of shit out"

Its fine tuning time
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_Wb0i0-Qvo

>>1001937
Looks like you might need to lower your extrusion multiplier a tiny bit

>>1001964
Thank you!

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>Have there been any advancements in the technology?
I looked into it when home plastic printing was just becoming popular but the surface quality, time, and money didn't seem worth it when I could just machine most of the parts myself.

>>1002001
FDM technology hasnt changed since the 80s
Its all about how much money you want to spend.

For coreXY what's better, wheels or smooth rods? I've heard that wheels have some slack and that smooth rods will be more precise (and that deflection is close to none on 8mm rods up to 300mm and you can always get thicker rods)

>>1002026
The cheap linear bearings on smooth rods have play in them. Wheels are only going to have play if the design doesnt allow you to adjust the slack out.

>>1002029
I can afford Misumi rods and bearings, so it's really just a matter of quality.

>>1002032
If you want higher quality linear bushings that wont eat away rods, Igus drylin

>>1002036
Don't those have more friction than good linear ball bearings? And instead of the rods they'd be worn away.

>>1002041
They outlast mechanical bushings, and they do much much less wear to the rods.

>>1002042
Only seeing a little bit of positive information about these igus bearings. Probably going to just go with linear bearings if I do go with smooth rods.

Anyone know how good the v-slots are from openbuildstore in terms of quality and consistency?

>>1002090
Lulzbot uses them in their high end printers.
I've never tried them though, I use eBay ones and they work fine.

>>1002459
Right now I'm looking at used linear guides. They'd be at least twice as much as good rods, with good bearings and collars/supports. Is corexy even good enough to warrant linear guides?

>>1002483
>Is corexy even good enough to warrant linear guides?

Its not any better than your standard Ultimaker type gantry system. Dont break the bank for accuracy that wont actually translate into better prints.
It IS 3d printing after all.

>>1002491
I was reading misumi's blog on linear motion systems

http://blog.misumiusa.com/sliding-guides-part-2-linear-bushings-vs-linear-guides/

Linear bushing (ball bearings) can have errors on the order of a few thousands of an inch (worst case scenario like 25 microns) and deflection is a problem with rods. Whereas linear guides are head over heels more precise and have little to no deflection even on heavier loads. I can see deflection and the imprecision of linear rods and bearings being compounding problems.

>>1002503
Dude, you are making a 3d printer. It moves pretty slowly, it floats on top of the print laying very soft plastic in layers on top of itself.

It matters in a CNC cutter where there are heavy lateral forces on your quite heavy spindle. Play in the bearings could move around when cutting. It could ruin a cut

You dont need those sort of tolerances for a 3d printer. Its a waste of money

>>1002508
>>1002503
This. Unless you're trying to get <50 micron accuracy, that really doesn't matter. You're not going to have heavy loads. Hell, the heaviest you'd get is maybe a kg of plastic (an entire roll), and how often do you print things that large?

>>1002512
>Unless you're trying to get <50 micron accuracy,
That would be ideal. If I print a sphere I'd like it to be as close to perfect as possible. 0.1mm is too much of an error.

>>1002515
Er, okay, If you're designing things that need that much precision on a regular basis, you're either overthinking it or need an industrial 3D printer.

>>1002515
I have seen a couple of 3d printers that use Hiwin linear guides. you should check with your local reseller for prices, but here is for example: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/HIWIN-linear-guide-3PCS-MGN9-L400mm-Miniature-linear-guide-3PCS-MGN9C-linear-carriage-bearing-linear-guide/32301466918.html
Then if you compare that with idk $50 for rods and bearings, it is not that much more expensive.
If you are from US maybe check out Printerbot, they have linear guides on Printrbot Plus and new Simple V2. They only sell carts and no rails on their site https://printrbot.com/shop/12mm-linear-rail-bearing-cart/ , but maybe if you contact them they might help you.

>>1002523
Are MGN9s sufficient to support a bed and the prints? 2 leadscrews should handle most of it since they'll be centered on the mass.