I need to use this mask as a prop for an upcoming indie film. I want to paint it a smooth, solid black, widen the holes into two slits and and use some nice ribbon to give a it a unique, high-class, but creepy venetian look. Most of the process will be extremely easy, and even if it's imperfect it should look fantastic on camera, especially in context.
The only problem is that this thing was way thinner than described, so it'll look like plastic even when painted and bends like cheap shit when you handle it on the sides. I know there are sturdier alternatives out there, but I fell in love with this exact facial structure. I really want to save this thing.
How could I go about re-enforcing this mask to make it thicker and sturdier? I guess I'd hope to order one or two more copies and glue them together to make it sturdier, then lay some kind of velvet on the inside, but I've got no idea how to apply that smoothly over such a curvy, uneven surface, or even what to call that problem so I can research it.
Any ideas? Thoughts?
I have a clay mold of the inside here I could also glue there to make it seem thicker and eliminate the contour problems on the inside. That'd make the only hard part with the fabric getting in the depth of the nose (which can afford to be a little wrinkly if we just shoot around it).
>>961156
>fiberglass
>>961200
New to fiberglass, but I just looked it up and it seems like a good option. Would definitely have to smooth out the interior, though. Would some simple sandpaper work?
>>961214
i would recommend you don't put fiberglass anywhere near your face
>>961214
Yeah you can finish the edges and inside. Have to paint it anyways to get it black.
You could also use carbon fiber for extra stiffness and lighter weight - you are doing such a small piece wouldn't be that expensive.
Use epoxy ... Check out Wicks Aircraft Supply for the materials if in the US.
Cheap and easy way. Use multiple layers of spray paint. You can use gloss of matte. Depending on the look you are going for. I figure maybe around 10 layers will do it. Not that much effort. Takes like 1 minutes to do a layer. Wait 5 minutes to dry unless you have a hair dryer. Rinse and repeat.
I get people saying fiber glass, but I am always a fan of the simple.
Also, I have a mask about the same I did it to. Works well. But if it bends, you run the risk of it cracking. But if it is on your face, it will be fine.
>>961364
>>961369
Considering both of these so far.
Also considering using something like this on the interior. Have to handle some of it first, but it seems like it'd apply easier to the shape of the face & depth of the nose with a single piece.
https://www.fabric.com/buy/ej-175/stretch-charmeuse-satin-red?&cm_mmc=Google-_-Products-_-Products%20Listings-_-EJ-175&CAWELAID=172000510000031634&CAGPSPN=pla&catargetid=172000510000277933&cadevice=c&gclid=CO-7mYeTvssCFQMQaQodh4ELfA
>>961371
Use spray adhesive to get it lined in right on the inside.
use stiffener wire around the rim of the mask
>>961156
i think its called enamel paint, it hardens to add protective layers on shit, paint it on thick and there is a protective layer... cant speak to how good this is, as i never got an opportunity to try it.
>>961156
What about that spray rubber like Flex Seal or Flex liquid, then you wouldn't have to paint it black again either?
>>961319
You put it in the mask, it wont do shit to you when its dried
>>961485
This, you don't need to strengthen the whole mask because you don't need it to survive impacts or anything, you just want it to stop flopping about, all you need to do is get some medium gauge wire (use your best judgement, don't want it too thin or it will bend too easily, but don't want it too thick so that it will get in the way or be hard to bend in to place in the first place) and then just use hot glue to run it around the inside rim of the mask. If you find it's still too flexible you could add some vertical/horizontal pieces of wire that contour the inside of the mask, just make sure they don't get in the way of your face (if you need to wear it)
>>961369
Fiberglass imo is overkill, what OP should not forget is, that he has to make it LOOK sturdy. Its a movie.
A lot of movie props look like shit and are pretty meh in construction when looked at closely.
I would go with what you said, a few layers of paint, and you should have what you want.
Fucks sake! Paper mache the inside. Cheap, quick, easy. You can even make copies this way. Google Stolloween for the best paper mache tips ever.
>>961649
Wrong. If you don't get a complete resin coating you could get glass fibres in your skin - itchy as hell. Also some people have allergic reactions to the various resins.
Thanks for all the responses so far. I'm broke as hell and mostly funding this by calling in favors. I don't have money to experiment, so it's crucial this gets right the first time.
If anybody has more recommendations or thoughts, go ahead and post them. I've still got a day or two to figure it out.
>>961667
The stiffener wire is a good solution, but it's within our best interest it be able to withstand little accidents, and that leaves the face too vulnerable to denting for my comfort. Shit happens, and a damaged prop can totally derail a shoot.
>>961718
I feel retarded for not thinking of this in the first place, but that's unfortunately what happens in the heat of production. That kind of overengineering honestly accounts for most of Hollywood's dangerously inflating budgets.
However, now that I think of it, that makes attaching fabric to the inside seem less reliable, with the surface maybe ripping off easily. I'm sure I can find a way around that, though.
>>961748
Fiberglass it. I'd use a fast curing epoxy. Sand down rough edges. Then put a couple of coats of clear coat on it to better smooth it. Let cure for 2 days and it should be pretty fucking sturdy. Also if you don't want to use fiberglass, a thin cloth like a bedsheet and epoxy would still work.
