This might be a bit weird but maybe someone will know this stuff better than me. I need to re thread this wooden screw in handle, while keeping as much of the original parts as possible. The 1870's threading must have worn out, and the previous owner had glued the handle in place. I managed to separate it and I intend to re thread both the handle and receiver with nice metal hardware.
My original plan was to use a drill and expand the hole, and crazy glue in a nut. The wooden handle will have the wood screw part sawed off, and a new metal bolt in it's place, which would then screw into the nut (and can be unscrewed, like the handle was supposed to)
I then researched metal threaded inserts and thought it would be a better idea, but none are the right size.
The hole in the receiver is about a third of an inch wide, and a fourth of an inch deep.
the original plan sounded pretty good actually
![71uSupUZsNL._SL1100_[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/voWupJp.jpg "71uSupUZsNL._SL1100_[1].jpg")
>>952460
Everything sounds good except the nut part. They do make metal sleeves with threaded insides just for such a purpose. I'd use one of those.
Pic not exactly related but best I could google up without trying very hard.
>>952531
I looked at these but I would need one custom cut at 1/4'' long. (can any online stores do this?) Another option is a plastic insert since I can file it down, but it doesn't seem like they exist without metal threading inside.
>>953100
As long as you don't cut the front end you can shorten it with a hack saw (might take forever) or a grinding wheel.
Tell us your country and the exact size you need and we might just get a prefect cheap shop.
>>953215
USA. Max 1/4'' long and 1/3'' wide. Inside threading can be any size, and a little smaller than those dimensions is ok since I can just set it in with some strong glue.
these type of things work - not sure of their 'trade name' which makes it harder to search for them... but I have used the brass type in wood projects before.
you drill a hole and then screw the brass (or steel) piece in until it is flush then you have a threaded hole for a bolt (or the cut off end of a bolt inserted into your wooden knob) that will thread/screw right in.
prepare for a huge argument about which way the slotted side should face and what tool to use to screw it into the wood (I always just used an appropriate sized flat head screwdriver - works fine. but there are also 'special' tools to drive them in as well.)
>>953380
additional picture
steel version
>>953382
...and another type of basically the same thing...looks like these use a hex wrench (allen wrench) to screw them into the wood.
>>952460
Here.
http://www.dlawlesshardware.com/innuflg2.html?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adwords&id=18283950120&gclid=CPX7mubdmcsCFQdbfgodh_UF2g
>>953380
There is another variation on these that is a knurled brass piece that you press in. then when you screw something in it'll expand.
>>953380
I've been calling them grub screws
I say go with epoxying a nut in place. Those threaded inserts are a pain to install plumb.
If the threads are still intact on one of the surfaces, try a moldable plastic and just use it as a mold for the other part
Like instamorph
I found a flag holder in the garage and it used a bolt for tightening when a flag pole is put in. The holder was made of plastic but the bolt screwed into a metal receiver which I extracted. Everything width wise was a perfect match for what I wanted. I spent a few hours with the saw and got everything the right length.
The handle is now complete. The threaded insert needs to be glued in (it's just sitting in place in the picture). I have gorilla glue, elmer's, and wood glue, but I am skeptical about the bonding power between wood and metal with all of those. How do I keep the threaded insert in there without the risk of it suddenly popping out?
>>955337
2 part epoxy
>>955344
Any recommended one? I see Gorilla, loctite, JB weld etc. I'm willing to pay a lot for a really good one.
>>955337
not gorilla glue
any epoxy should be fine
