Hello gents,
I have access to a bunch of hemlock logs and a sawmill. I need to cut them all and sticker them up. I don't have a cut list for future projects- I'd like a generic one.
I know I'll be cutting a bunch of posts and beams for pseudo post and beam construction. I know I'd prefer 2x6 for stick frame so that I can insulate better, and/or rip in two for 2x3 construction when I don't need to insulate.
In my head, I should do a certain number (or percentage) of 6x6, the same for 2x6, the same for 1x. Then I'm lost. Is there a need for 2x8 or 2x10? probably for rafters and joists... It's not too hard to rip them later, but I don;t want to end up with piles years from now where I ask why I bothered making so many of something.
I can always buy what I'm missing, but posts are the most expensive for rough cut (don;t ask me why, seems silly).
Any suggestions?
>>945599
Are you sawing it to sell, or sawing it to use?
2x4, 2x8, 4x4
>>945784
You can go with 2x6 if you're planning on using fiberglass or cellulose. Foam board and wrap you're ok with 2x4.
you will need 2x4 for non-load bearing stuff inside.
Also, unless your budget is shoestring or your plan very simple I'd stick with trusses.
>>945806
Thanks. When you say trusses, do you mean prefab ones, or make my own? Budget isn't shoestring, but I'd only use trusses if I was looking for really large rooms. I don;t like what trusses take away (usable space).
>>945599
Honestly, I wouldn't even think about using it for construction lumber. Not that it wouldn't work, but I'd be thinking furniture. Just because you may 'be able to get some rather large pieces out of it. Not that hemlock is a common furniture wood, but it'd be perfect for one of those "rustic" pieces with character. If you could get a 16 inch wide 12/4 board and book match it would have a pretty cool looking table top.
>>945951
Although there's a chance I'd use some for furniture (i have a planer, and other shop tools), I'm talking about a few thousand board feet here. Rough cut lumber is cheaper than KD around here, and I like how it looks. I can always plane one side if I need to. For building all these structures, it's the cheapest way to go, by far.
When the sawyer comes, I'll have a few hardwood logs for him as well for furniture.
>>945962
Damn, I didn't know you were dealing with that much. I'd do as many large boards as possible. It's much easier to turn a 2x8 into a 2x4 than the other way around. I wouldn't bother with more than a couple 6x6 or 4x6s, you come across few practical uses for them where a 4x4 wouldn't suffice.
>>945926
Like anon said, 2x4 for interior non load bearing stuff. 2x10 makes a good floor joist, and depending on width of roof maybe rafters too. I also prefer rafters over trusses.
Some of this depends on how big you're building and how long your logs are, but as a rule of thumb your wider lumber needs to be longer, 16' if possible for 2x8 or wider. That way you can rip/cut to 8' 2x4s, etc. and still have usable pieces. Longer/wider just gives you more choices down the road. ...with lumber, that is...
>>945970
>>946019
Yes, and yes. I think I'll be able to get a basic size on my different structures, which will at least allow me to guess on posts and beams. I like 6x6 for the rough frame.
I'll pretty surely skip doing 2x4. ROugh cut 2x4 seems like a waste when I can rip 2x6 and get 2x3, especially since they are really nailers (because of the fake post and beam construction).
Seems like 2x12 is overkill for almost everything. Maybe if I could get basic structure size, I could get the need for span on floors, and guess.
My real hope was that someone could say to me "Basic structures need 40% 1x for flooring and siding, 30% etc"
Thanks, though. This has been good so far.
>>946070
Built a room addition a few years ago. 18'x24', with bathroom and 8'x6' (?) Closet. I used 2x4s for walls, 2x10 floor joists, 2x8 ceiling joists/sill plates, and I can't remember if I used 8s or 10s for rafters. Doing a quick calculation from what I can remember about 70% was 2x4, 20% 2x8, 10% 2x10. However, everything bigger than 2x4 was at least 10' long or more. Any questions ask away, but I started it 10 years ago, finished it about 6 years ago, let that determine how much you trust me. Bwa ha ha!
>>946310
This is super, thanks.
Only issue is that I need a hefty percentage of 1x for siding and sheathing.
Gents, any more info is appreciated, but I think I'm all set at this point. I'm gonna rough estimate my posts and beams, and then the remaining will be 50% 1x, 30% 2x6, and 20% 2x10 (saved from the longer logs).
I appreciate the help.
Just to update, cuz I can:
Getting 4k board feet. @ $230 per 1000, delivered.
He's gonna be able to put it in my old milling site, so they won't have to be moved again, thankfully.
The logs are all super clean because the skidding was on snow, so fewer busted bands.
I have a 20' deep garage I want to make, so I looked into what size hemlock beams I would need to span the whole 20 ft, but it was pretty big, like 12x24". For the hassle of getting that log on the sawmill, it wasn't worth it. I'll have to go with engineered, or steel, or just put the posts in.
>>945599
>I don't have a cut list for future projects- I'd like a generic one.
You can make big prices smaller, but not the reverse, so think big.
My logs came! 4100 board feet for $940. Some good looking timber. He had to give me some smaller ones (thinner), but I'm pretty pleased. Plus, I got to cruise around my snowy field in my little Impreza...
>>945926
Both or either. Although making your own for anything bigger than a shed is a pain in the ass.
Basically its a time thing. From reading your other posts it sounds like you have plenty of time so rafters are cool.
