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Hello. My amplifier started giving out on both exits (a and b)
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Thread replies: 15
Thread images: 6
Hello. My amplifier started giving out on both exits (a and b) noise. cinder flame noise and windy noise. I thought it might be transformer since now it was very hot. Also when i took of top cap i smelled smokey smell. What could it be
It's sanyo dcx 8000k.
It worked like a wonder week and a half and now this.
Need ideas because i think i checked everything.

Thank you
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>>936461
1st picture was bottom side of transformer
this pic is top side of transformer
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>>936462
also where can i buy transofmers
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Might not necessarily be the transformer that's failing, if there's a smoothing capacitor that's dried out or is failing, that can cause the tranny to overheat. I'd look at the whole system rather than just assume it's the tranny.

http://www.farnell.com/ is a useful site for picking out parts. Even if you buy somewhere else, farnell has a brilliant parts list system that you can then take an item number from and go elsewhere.
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>>936472
Where can i locate that smoothing capacitor?
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top view
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bottom view
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What is this, is that part movable with flathead screwdriver like --
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>>936478
The primary smoothing capacitors are C902 and C903, which are those large grey cans.

>>936481
Intermediate frequency transformer. Don't fuck with it.
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>>936483
How to check those 2 capacitors?
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>>936485
You could start by checking if there's something visibly wrong. If not, measure whether they're short-circuited.
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>>936486
They're both fine from the outside. How to see if they're short circuited.
They have worked two weeks if that means something (the whole amplifier)
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>>936513
It you can measure a voltage across them when its switched on they are not short.

Install a 75 watt incandescent light globe in place of the mains fuse wile testing. If the globe lights bright something is wrong.

>>936483
>Don't fuck with it.

This. Do not adjust those.

The capacitors are clearly marked on the circuit.
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>>936485
Use a multimeter. Set it to resistance or to bell, and set the probes across the contacts of the capacitors. If you see low or zero resistance (or the bell mode beeps at you) and doesn't stop, the capacitor is fucked. Best you can do without a proper cap tester.

If you're new to electronics, don't try testing anything while it's powered on. Cold test everything. You can check resistors as well using a multimeter.

That unit looks ooooooold, my guess would be the caps have packed in. Electrolytic caps, good ones, will generally be 'good' for about ten years. Crap ones will fail at any time from the day they are made. Exceptional ones (Or accidentally good ones), can struggle on for decades past their shelf life, but generally, after ten years, it's a good idea just to put new, modern caps in instead.
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>>936481
Don't touch those. In fact, if it has a screwdriver slot and is soldered to a PCB, leave it alone unless you a: know exactly what it is b: it's already smashed or faulty c: you know how to get the part number to order a replacement and d: you know the value it's sitting at BEFORE you touch it.

Most things are easy to replace or find alternatives for, because generally there's labels and shit. Trim pots and IFT's are best left to their own devices unless for the reasons I've stated.
Thread replies: 15
Thread images: 6

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