afternoon folks! I've been doing a lot of projects that require the use of a respirator and have decided to invest in a reusable one (where you replace the filters) as opposed to the inexpensive one time use masks. I've been trying to do some research but I'm still not sure I'm making a good decision. Rather than try to talk to the folks at the home goods stores, I figured I'd come here first for recommendations on both what kind of respirator would be good for me as well as a good market to purchase it from.
From what I've read, all manufacturers use the same color coding system so that's a plus, but I'm still unsure what kinds of filters I need. In my activities I come in contact with: pesticides, weed/grass killers, dust from wood and plaster (think plaster of paris), and in my household chores routine, kitty litter (I'm not sure if this is bad for my health, but better safe than sorry I suppose). Occasionally I use spray paint, but not very often so it's less important. Can someone give me links to good choices for my particular usage? Maybe a good site to buy from? It seems the R100 are the better filters, but I'm just unsure if they're appropriate for what I'm using. Any help is appreciated!
>>920446
every box of filters i ever bought had a table on the back showing the protection levels required for pretty much any activity
the finer the filter the more it will protect you, but if you buy a really fine particulate filter and then use it for something that doesn't produce really fine particles it will just clog up really quickly and you will have wasted money on a filter you didn't need.
so sometimes its better to buy a couple to cover the different jobs you need to do.
closest store to me only does one kind of filter anyway and its cheap so i just use whatever, as long as i can't smell anything and my boogers are green instead if black at the end of the day i'm happy.
>>920446
Prolly you have somekind of specs in your country. Just read the labels and you'll find the correct level of filtration. And if you buy a cheap one it might not be that comfy. We have a chain called biltema and though it has the same specs as my M3 the M3 kicks ass as it is so much nicer to use for longer periods. Costs 5 times more though.
one of my peers whom I was speaking with on the subject said that his beard factored into the effectiveness of the mask too. Is there a way around that, short of shaving? In the type in the OP pic, it seems that any longer facial hair would allow particles into the mask.
>>920462
Where d'you think the Hitler Moustache came from?
It's a normal moustache trimmed so as not to interfere with a gas mask.
>>920446
p100. here are some easy to understand lists
http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/npptl/topics/respirators/disp_part/default.html
>>920462
there is no way to avoid shaving. i'v tried. whenever iv had to work with a respirator iv had to shave. there is no way a mask to make a seal when you have a beard. the only option is a full suit but those are far too cumbersome for serious work.
>>920462
you either go full hood or you slather your beard completely in some kind of lube to seal the mask to the face between the individual hairs.
the lube will collect dust very quickly.
if you go full hood you can just buy an air tank and never worry about filters again
>>920446
I know of no disposable masks that offer chemical protection.
As far as filters:
It depends on the chemical structure of the pesticides, but with what you describe a 3m 6000 series mask with 6001 Organic vapor cart, and a 501 adapter with p95 (or a 502 with a p100 if you're paranoid) would pretty much cover everything you would end up doing.
Most hardware stores in the US sell a kit with a 6001 and the p95 adapter for $25 in the paint sections.
You could skip the adapters but remember to change filters based on contaminant type. In this case p100 for dust, org. vapor for chem.
If you're just using a spray wand, learning to use it correctly will negate the need for a respirator.
Otherwise look up the MSDS and the filter manufacturer's chart (in this case 3m) and determine the right cart for the job.
Also, not all manufacturers use the same color code. For single contaminant carts they do, but some multi-contaminant carts can have different color codes. MSA has different codes for different product lines.
From the sounds of it you're not doing anything that's super critical when it comes to the filter type, unless by pesticides you mean IDLH fumigation or crop spraying.
It sounds like you're doing residential/maintenance work, if you aren't dealing with strong concentrated acids or chlorine, I'd say you can't go wrong with the 6001 kit that comes with particulate filters.
>>920462
Yes, you will HAVE to shave if you want the mask to be FULLY effective. Although a mask with a beard is better than none at all.
OP seems like just a hobbyist with good safety culture. Of all of this the most dangerous thing I see is the plaster dust. Unless you're working in enclosed clouds of the stuff, a p100 is good, but bulky with a chem filter, and generally not needed.
>>920446
Also I should mention you can find the full range of 3M TEKK respirator products on amazon.
I'm not sure about MSA's availability, as they tend to stick to the industrial sectors.
3M is the best brand--can never go wrong with them.
I use this for welding, it's perfect. I use a size large cus my nose is big.
>>920830
They are the best as far as consumer products and low level contaminants are concerned. And pretty high up there if not the best for higher contaminant levels.
However in the industrial sector there are better brands such as MSA and a few others. Mostly in IDLH and only slightly lower situations. So for this thread it really doesn't matter, but important info for any anons taking this as their soul form of research for respiratory protection.
TL;DR 3M is the best for particulate and low level chem, but I wouldn't trust a 3M IDLH SCBA if they even make one.
>>920832
From what I've been told, the rubber face seal on this was taken from a model made for oxy masks for air-force fighter pilots. Thus they're designed to fit almost anyone.
also
>>920446
OP the mask you pictured is the 3M Professional Multi-purpose model. It has a p-100 particulate filter and nuisance level vapor protection. If you are working with more than nuisance levels, get a vapor specific cart kit like the Paint Project Respirator. Either one should be adequate for your use.
Also OP, even though you're not doing any super hazardous work, get in the habit of seal checks:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tzpz5fko-fg
at the 4:45 mark.
>>920902
>>920446
>but important info for any anons taking this as their soul form of research
Just for completeness sake:
Manufacturers data sheets for chemical carts will provide the maximum rated ppm or ppb that the mask and cart can be used in. For any enclosed work this is important.
the letter in the P rating (in this case P, duh) represents it's resistance to aerosols and oils.
N is not resistant to oil.
R is somewhat resistant to oil.
P is strongly resistant to oil.
The number represents the filtration efficiency level.
The percentage is the percent of particulates filtered out. Selection is based on what leakage is acceptable. A 95 filter will be effective for non-bio-accumulative workplace dust and aerosols, but not things like asbestos and other incredibly small contaminants that are bio-accumulative. 99 will filter out more than 95, used for finer dusts in more enclosed environments.
For asbestos type work, 100 is what you want.
The higher the rating, the better protection, but also may be harder to breathe through.
For asbestos type work, 100 is what you want.
NIOSH 95= at least 95% of all contaminants
NIOSH 99= at least 99%
NIOSH 100= at least 99.97%
A good example, 95 would be good for drywall dust, and fiberglass, but not asbestos, or say, things as fine as powdered sugar. 99 would work for the sugar, since a little is ok to get through; your lungs can remove it.
100 is needed for the asbestos though, as asbestos gets in and doesn't leave. The fibers are also so small that a thread the sided of the eye on a penny can contain up to 20,000 fibers.
In short, know what your working with, read the MSDS, and look up the filter manufacturer's recommendations.
>>920446
3m 6000 series half face. get the one that comes with the pink / yellow filters (OG/AV/P100)
should be about 50 dollars at big box stores. its about 20 bucks for replacement filters and they last a LONG time. you can put the round p100 non chem filters for like 10 bucks for a 4 pack iirc
OP here, thanks for all the great links and suggestions!
>>920508
Been working on the beard for a long time so I don't think shaving will be an option ATM. I guess like >>920653 said "Although a mask with a beard is better than none at all."
>>920653
>OP seems like just a hobbyist with good safety culture. Of all of this the most dangerous thing I see is the plaster dust. Unless you're working in enclosed clouds of the stuff, a p100 is good, but bulky with a chem filter, and generally not needed.
exactly! Just trying to get in the habit of doing things properly! Since plaster is the most dangerous, can you recommend what I could use for that? (as you say the P100 is "not needed")
I'll reply to more of these later. Another question, if I were to get the wrong mask/filter for a certain job, I wouldn't be putting myself in a WORSE position than without any mask at all, would I?
>>920832
this is the style of what I've seen most often. Seems much less bulky compared to what I posted in the OP pic.
So I can assume a 3M with the right fliters would be appropriate working with large amounts of spraypaint, E6000, household bleach and various other glues and sealants indoors, in a well ventilated room (three 28x18 windows, two with high volume fans, one out one in)
I've never had any problems before, except on one particularly hot day and another time when my inspiration came from a bottle of fireball, but I also realize that just because the room isn't spinning doesn't mean that stuff isn't affecting me, especially the E6000, that shit kinda scares me.
>>920922
>P is strongly resistant to oil.
>oil
I'm a bit confused by the term in the context of masks and health hazards. Can someone give me an example of an oil that these masks would come into contact with? I (somewhat) understand dust particles... they're small, in the air, potentially harmful, and can be blocked by these filters (seems logical enough). Oil still has me confused
P3 Bio and Gas (brown).
Manufactures will give a table explaining their filters.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Respirator
This will also give a good break down of EN standards and filter coding.
>>920922
P represents particulates.
>>921114
Think petroleum vapors. Some types of paint spray, for instance.
>>920462
If you're only dealing with occasional, non-toxic particulate, you'll be fine. Dealing with shit harmful at low levels, shave.
>>921114
>>921125
It's for aerosolized oils or oil vapors, in any context. Some oils come in smoke, heated vapor from say, a pool of oil, or oil being moved about.
P is not used by NIOSH to stand for "particulates" Your pic actually shows this.
N is for "not resistant"
R is for "resistant"
P is for oil "proof"
>>921203
Is on the money, this is one kind of oil hazard.
>>921110 Remember this is if the pesticides are normal residential ones, and used correctly.
Really any NIOSH rated mask will protect you from the dust. The don't go below 95 rating which should protect you from plaster. Plaster of Paris isn't particularly hazardous in small quantities, especially not the kind you would be receiving with a mask on. Silicosis is the biggest risk from this: https://www.osha.gov/dts/chemicalsampling/data/CH_263500.html
As for your second question, no, you would not. Any mask will provide SOME protection, no mask will cause extra hazards, other than false sense of safety if you are using the wrong kind.
As >>921082 said, for your purposes you can't go wrong with that one. It offers P100 particulate protection, and a general use chem cart.
If you were doing spray-paint in a less than ideal area I would recommend a specific cart for organic vapors.
>>920832
This mask is actually the least bulky, but offers little to no chemical protection.
>>921111
IDK if you're OP, but the ventilation alone should keep you safe.
this:
http://amzn.com/B002NMICB2
or this:
http://amzn.com/B00004Z4EB
should work for whatever you're doing.
The ladder being more for paint and the former being more for all around protection.
The first link is what >>921082 is talking about.
>>921250
>niosh
What. Sorry I don't pay much attention to American health organisations. They were founded on back handers and pay offs.
OP. Look at the manufacturer EN rating and you want want a minimum of P3(99.95%) filtration. Each manufacturer will give a specific of what each filter can do.
4Chan is the last place I'd come for advice on respiratory protection because if everyone payed attention to shit 4Chan says then cancer.
>>921367
Well see, funny thing is, OP is in the US (based on the fact that he came in asking about an R100 rating) 3M doesn't seem to sell the TEKK series where they use the EN rating, and if they do they use different product numbers.
Plus, most if not all masks that OP will find in the US will not publish an EN rating an any easily obtainable format.
Thus being an elitist wanker about rating systems is unhelpful and confusing.
OP isn't working with asbestos, he doesn't NEED a P100, but by all means if he wants to he can use one. It just means that the filters will need changing more often, and breathing will be very slightly harder. He's working with plaster dust and some solvent vapors, not airborne mega ebolaids or radioactive, dimethylmercury coated asbestos.
Hell, even low level bio containment masks are only N95.
If P3 is 99.95% then wouldn't P100 be a slightly more rigorous rating at 99.97%?
Anyways, everything I've said can be cross checked easily, which is what OP should be doing if he is taking safety advice from 4chan seriously.
>>921485
>Anyways, everything I've said can be cross checked easily, which is what OP should be doing if he is taking safety advice from 4chan seriously.
absolutely!
>>921485
>>921367
The minimum recommended filter according to 3M for plaster of Paris is an N95
https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/639110O/3m-respirator-selection-guide.pdf
Page 29 (32 according to the reader)
So pretty much any NIOSH mask meets the requirements.
Actually the CDC doesn't recommend anything for plaster.
http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/npg/npgd0518.html
>>920462
Hi, if you've got a beard and want full protection, there's something called a powered air respirator which is battery driven and keeps a slight positive pressure in the mask so the air only goes one way around your beard. You don't need a full suit but I think most powered air respirators come with a face shield as well, which I consider a plus for many applications anyway.
I think the batteries will last for a couple of hours at a time.
I've considered buying one but haven't tried one yet so know that I don't speak from experience.
By the way, if you like the idea of a face shield to protect your eyes, this is the respirator I would like to buy soon. It is not powered.
>>920446
I only use a mask for fibreglass, and mainly only when I'm sanding it. Unles you're doing it every day, the cheap "spray-pak" 2-filter respirators from your big box hardware store is sufficient. It completely blocked acetone, but was useless against methyl ethyl ketone. Good for the dust, too. The lungs can handle a bit of solvent exposure, which can be easily reduced by improving ventilation.
Better yet, look at the most dangerous chemical you will work with, read the MSDS, and pick the recommended mask. It isn't hard. Particles cause the most harm, cancer is a hit and miss affair and is more about genetics than exposure to some simple organic solvents in low PPM. Just don't drink it.
Lol this thread.
Here is my two cents
If you plan on using it a lot. Id take that one back and pick up the blue(dark blue body, light blue rubber for the seal) 3M "professional painters" respirator. The mask and rubber is alot more comfortable and you dont need to cinch the shit outta the straps(fucking up all them orthodontics your parents paid for) to get a good seal
Added bonus theres 2 nubs right near where your nostrils would be to collect vapor condensation and contain it inside the mask. This nearly eliminates any water droplets that comes outta the mask. Also the exhaust is aimed down and out so it usually wont fog up your glasses or eye protection.
I'm a finish carpenter by trade. I wear mine all day, erday. When Im not working around painters I use the pink (abestos) filters. When the painters are around i switch to paint filters the activated carbon kind with the cloths pads held onto the filter cartridge with a retaining clip.
Being around airborne lacquer for a few hours with a mask is fucking atrocious.
>inb4 free buzz
Once was enough. Especially when your lips are numb after 30 minutes.
Also if you can still smell whatever chemical you're working with while wearing the respirator you need a different filter.
The painters filter and poisonious gasses filter (pink and yellow) both work with lacquer and other associated chemicals.
Also 40 hours or 30 days which ever comes first is the recommended life of the filters.
Not that it matters but I add an extra hour to my weekly sum to make up for the cost of filters. My boss wont pay for it otherwise if I try to get him to comp my PP
>fuck you, you build million dollar custom homes. When the local average home is built around 150k. You can afford another $20 asshat.
Although it is the good life being an in house finish carpenter, fuck doing subcontractor finish work
>>920832
Are you jewish?
>>921501
>Id take that one back and pick up the blue(dark blue body, light blue rubber for the seal) 3M "professional painters" respirator
OP here, I assume you're talking to me, I haven't purchased any respirator yet, just found that on goggle.
> theres 2 nubs right near where your nostrils would be to collect vapor condensation and contain it inside the mask. This nearly eliminates any water droplets that comes outta the mask. Also the exhaust is aimed down and out so it usually wont fog up your glasses or eye protection
I very much like this idea.
Question about the respirator you mention (the "professional painter" one, would that accept the other filters discussed itt? You're mainly talking about functionality of the unit itself here right?
>Also if you can still smell whatever chemical you're working with while wearing the respirator you need a different filter.
good point! Seems like a legitimate way to figure it out, although some of the stuff I'm around (plaster, for instance) doesn't really have much of a smell. The cat litter definitely does, I'm still not sure if the dust from that is hazardous, but I prefer to be safe than take a chance. Same goes for the grass killer and pesticides I use in the summertime around the home.
>>921501
>I add an extra hour to my weekly sum to make up for the cost of filters
Do you mean that you say you worked an extra hour that you really didn't? If so that seems like a good reason to fire a person. Although in some circumstances there's probably no way for your boss to find out:)
>>921501
>Id take that one back and pick up the blue(dark blue body, light blue rubber for the seal) 3M "professional painters" respirator. The mask and rubber is alot more comfortable and you dont need to cinch the shit outta the straps(fucking up all them orthodontics your parents paid for) to get a good seal
can you link this one? I'm having trouble finding that specific one.
>>921489
interesting about the lack of recommendations... It obviously creates dust, does that mean a person shouldn't breathe it?
How about sawdust? Is that hazardous to one's health? I always wear eye protection and ear protection when working with wood, but never lung protection....should I?
stupid question: Are most of the cartridges universal fit? 3M seems to be a top brand, and I'm noticing some cartridges that are round like this one>>920832
while others are more squared. Is there a reason for this?
>>921545
Breathing any significant amount of dust is a bad idea. The lack of recommendations is probably due to the typical exposure quantity being low.
Any protection is good protection.
General policy is, if it is in the air, a mask isn't a bad idea. Better safe then sorry, because the equipment to measure whether you need a mask or not isn't worth it when for $30USD you can just get a mask. I can't imagine you going over 10 times the limit, which is what the carts are made for.
>>921552
MOST 3M carts are interchangeable. There are a few product lines, but most of the non bayonet type are restricted to the industrial sector.
Basically if you find it attached to that type of mask, or any variants of the 6000 series mask, it should work. 3M only has one type of bayonet mount anyways.
Plaster dust does contain silica, which in high quantities can lead to silicosis.
>>921110
>I'll reply to more of these later. Another question, if I were to get the wrong mask/filter for a certain job, I wouldn't be putting myself in a WORSE position than without any mask at all, would I?
no because your already at risk for refusing to shave your mask is going to do anything
>>921552
>>921555
This should help also.
https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/565214O/3m-cartridge-filter-guide-and-brochure.pdf
and
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0ahUKEwj31-yj7f_JAhWIJCYKHXR5BIsQFgg8MAA&url=http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/439882O/3mtm-filter-fitting-data-sheet.pdf&usg=AFQjCNFkGbfoWRqxHJdo3E6meA44wql_VQ&sig2=osyzL9LJ6oAZNuo1V6MO3g&cad=rja
Google wouldn't let me get the direct link or a link to the 3m page.
This will download a PDF with detailed info about the carts.
>>921564
I'd try something like petroleum jelly at the least.
You can always perform a seal check as in the video to see if it works.
Washing it out may be a PITA though, and I wouldn't trust it in a situation where you may cause acute injury.
I already asked here, but thought I'd investigate lol
>>921564
Did you catch the post on Powered Air Purifying Respirators?
>>921496
They are quite expensive but are a more suitable option for you if you have a beard.
I remembered the name of a particular model I considered earlier - it sells for a little under 400 USD. That's quite a good price compared to other PAPRs
http://www.amazon.com/TREND-AIR-PRO-Airshield-Faceshield/dp/B002Q0Y5IU
The screenshot is from the product above.
>>921572
cool thanks! I'm going to copy all the text from this thread for future reading once the thread dies. I have plenty of time to decide what to get before the weather breaks and I'm able to work with these materials again (I prefer to work outside with lots of fresh air). I'm probably making way more of this than I need to, maybe those cheap little disposable masks will be fine for my application haha! As I'm getting older, however, I'm becoming more and more concerned with protecting myself any way possible!
>>921574
That's good. I'm 23 and have barely set out on a DIY project, ever. This summer I decided that my first investment in any equipment will be in a proper respirator so I won't regret anything later on. Woodworking, sanding, painting, it slowly tears at your health I think, and the best time to start protecting yourself is now. Good luck!
>>921580
thanks man! You too! I may look stupid with ear/eye protection while doing yard work, but at least I'm saving my ears and eyes!
>>921545
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/painting-contractors/products/catalog/3m-tekk-protection-professional-paint-respirator/?referringCategory=equipment-supplies/safety-equipment/respirators-accessories/&N=594042930
The rubber is also more contoured for cheeks and not just a 3D shaped triangle
>>921542
Yes filters are interchangeable as previously discussed. The mask I mentioned is like a 7000 series but it still takes all the 6000 series filters
>>921545
>How about sawdust? Is that hazardous to one's health? I always wear eye protection and ear protection when working with wood, but never lung protection....should I?
In general you should use a respirator any time you create dust, and this includes sawdust. More lung-dust science than you ever wanted to know in the link below.
http://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/chemicals/lungs_dust.html
Wood dust has a few particular hazards:
1) Most woods are mildly toxic to humans- when inhaled as a dust they can cause toxic effects or severe allergic reactions.
2) Most woods are considered "sensitizers", which means that your body becomes more sensitive to their presence over time. If you spend a lot of time woodworking without a filter mask you may eventually become so uncomfortable you're unable to continue, even with a filter mask.
3) Woods are very porous and can trap all sorts of fungus, bacteria, mold spores, and other microbes that can cause serious infections or toxic reactions if inhaled.
4) Engineered woods often contain solvents, glues, and/or other nasty chemicals (such as formaldehyde in MDF) that are unwise to inhale.
>>921564
>Surely there's some way of creating a better seal for people with facial hair (I mean facial hair isn't something new!)
There are full-face masks that would work if your entire beard fits inside the mask.
Otherwise, no. Your options are to chop the beard or find a new job/hobby.
>>921663
haha. thanks! I'll look into one of those pictured!
Just get a surplus gas mask from am army shop. The one with the charcoal filters will do for your purposes.
You'll look bad ass emptying that kitty litter
>>921367
>They were founded on back handers and pay offs.
Source?
>>922025
fuck yeah!
>>921981
Bewarned, they start at a few hundred dollars. A regular 3M respirator starts at about $20.
