Okay /diy/, I need a big hand here. So I have a vintage lathe, that cannot be found on the internet, no manuals, no nothing.
One of the plain journal bearings on it has some spalling and it locks up the pulley shaft that runs through it. It ran fine with our new belt for about an hour, and now it barely makes it through ten minutes before locking up. We have a constant feed of oil, so it works okay when running, but only barely. It's starting to slow down, and once stopped, is extremely hard to start up. What are we messing up?
a fucked bearing is a fucked bearing, it never gets better. you don't keep running the damn thing, you idiot.
go find a bigger lathe and turn up a new bearing and check your spindle for wear and runout.
>>908244
Where did you get those dildo foams in the background?
>>908269
do you mean just bore out the original bearing and press in a new sleeve?
>>908278
they're pool noodles, you can get them at pretty much any dollar store or target
>>908244
not part of the original question, but from what i understand a lathe is the the only tool in the shop that id able to make itself, anyone have guides on this?
>>908244
How much did you pay for that thing
>>909498
the only thing that comes to mind is look at the #2-5 gingery books on how to build a machine shop from scrap, casting the parts yourself etc. Book #1 is building the lathe, the rest are other tools.
>>908244
Visit machinist forums and check the antique machinery sections. Practical Machinist is outstanding.
These guys are experts at sorting out the type equipment you have. http://www.smokstak.com/forum/
You can also get lots of info on ancient machine tools via the Internet Archive which has plenty of pics and drawings of appropriate accessories for your lathe. Besides the logical search terms, "railway shop maintenance" etc yield a fuckton of interesting info.
When you post pics, have closeups where appropriate, and include the NAME of the lathe if it has one.
I remove rust like that from ways using a red Scotchbrite pad and WD-40. You can protect them afterwards with way oil. I use CRC 3-36 (buy the gallon, not the ripoff spray cans, then get a plastic spray bottle to apply it) to protect cleaned areas against flash rust where humidity is a problem.
You can do a surprising amount of work with that machine. I would carefully disassemble the headstock (remove the heavy faceplate first AFTER studying how they come off) and get experienced opinions on how best to replace the bearing. If you rebabbit the bearing do it in a WELL VENTILATED area. Babbit is available and there are videos and of course books showing how to do it. The Smokstak forums will be helpful. Learn where to lubricate your lathe too.
Now go hit the MANY machinist forums. You can hunt a lathe chuck to attach to your faceplate (don't buy until you fix your lathe) for more convenient workholding. Don't spend a lot of money on the lathe but do spend time to study that style.
Don't just fuck with shit thrashing to try to disassemble the lathe, have a very specific idea of how it comes apart and ask advice. Not here. This is not a vintage machinery forum.
Have fun. I fucking love machinery and many people like restoring old machine tools.
My bad, I didn't notice the chuck in your photo. I'd hit it with penetrant and if the jaws move without absurd force I'd run them in and out to check for binding etc. If you disassemble the chuck I suggest punch marking the jaws and the chuck body to identify their clock position in the chuck so they go back whence they came. There's plenty of info on chuck disassembly, cleaning and lubrication online.
