Hello there. I am remodeling the basement at the moment. Right now I am putting studs up for the walls and there is a wall that will divide the rooms in the basement directly under the support beam. I plan to place studs on the outside of the I-beam and reach the ceiling of the basement boards.
Now after snapping the chalk line I noticed that the wall will be really thick and would be a waste if I don't do something creative with the thich wall.
I want it to be a recessed bookshelf. I looked it up online but most videos show building a bookshelf onto an untouched wall, minus framing.
I just want to make use of the thick wall by making a recessed bookshelf. Anyone have any experience? Thoughts?
Just build bookcases then fake them in with some gypboard?
>>1004305
You better do this
>>1004331
Yeah, I don't want it to look like a 1950's study. There's many people who would love the vintage theme, but this is going to be a bedroom and it would look weird.
>>1004316
Ya why not. It's just a partition wall right?
>>1004426
You're right. Any reinforcements I should make? Because it is going to support an entertainment system as well.
>>1004305
Thick walls tend to have a lot of secrets. It may be hiding support beams, besides a host of things like electrical, pipes, and air ducts. Be careful when you start pulling drywall.
>>1004478
Kinda vise versa here.
I am building a fresh wall and purposely making it thick for all those reasons, minus air ducts. Hopefully it will be thick enough to accommodate all my needs.
>>1004478
its a NEW wall under an existing support beam.
you can do whatever you want. its a non load bearing wall you will be building. build the bookcase entertainment center as you would build it if it were freestanding in any other room. then just 'seal' in the sides and top with your drywall etc to complete the wall. easy peasy.
>>1004547
This
Since it's not actually supporting anything all it has to do is support its own weight so you can build the shelves first however you see fit, make sure it's suitable for holding what you want on it and then you just build the wall around it, either attach it straight to the shelves for added strength or leave it as just a frame around the shelves in case you want to remove them one day without taking the whole wall down.
>>1004465
Nail a few studs on to stiffen the shelf up? You could even just glue the drywall right to the backside of the bookcase
>>1004305
I did this exact thing many many years ago in a basement to divide off half for a bedroom. built some basic book cases with 1X12 pine lumber. used 1/2" 4x8 (cut down to size of course) paneling for the backing. made the center shelf (1X12) permanent with some 2x2 supports under. then upper and lower shelves were adjustable - made with more 1X12 with 1x2 trim glued and nailed to the front edge for extra support (so they wouldn't warp under weight). after that I added extra trim to the vertical front edges and crown to the top and baseboard to the bottom.
my bookcase units were each about 3 to 4 feet wide and floor to ceiling. had 3 units plus a door in a frame to span the room effectively cutting it in two. has been in place for more then 20 years now. never had any issues with anything. and if need be it can all be removed easily.
>>1004551
here is quick 'sketch' of how I did it...
used screws to hold everything together (so it could be taken apart easily later).
they are freestanding on the floor and at the top they are attached to solid wood framing in the ceiling. they won't tip over.
the back was covered with a rough finish wood paneling that usually was meant for exterior use but it had the look I wanted so used it inside. stained it dark.
>>1004579
the crown and base trim went all the way around as both sides needed to look finished.
>>1004579
Did you dado the shelves or use cleats?
>>1004581
just cleats. I've done dados for other projects. with this the sides are only 3/4" thick so putting a dado in would take it down to 1/2"... seemed a bit thin for my liking. plus if dado'd then shelves are not adjustable. with the cleats the shelves could be moved albeit not easy peasy - would need to move the cleats up or down and screw them back in.. but it's possible. I stained the whole thing very dark so small screw holes and other imperfections don't show unless you are really looking for them. the pine was not the highest grade either so other imperfections were not an issue - the whole thing was meant to look a bit 'rustic'.
>>1004682
the cleats are plenty strong. one of the shelves held National Geographic magazines from one end to the other (pretty heavy when there are that many) the shelf didn't bend or warp at all for all those years.
>>1004334
He was saying make a hidden door, not a shitty throwback to the days of George Washington you fuggin dolt
>>1004760
What kind of hidden door will be made in the middle of the basement? This ain't Narnia.
>>1004777
The one to OP's sex dungeon, of course.
>>1004985
Lul.
