Our WIP thread is saging! Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!!
>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here
>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
https://mega.co.nz/#F!OgpwzAKS!a5eVE6pOagTTOWEr5tEaEQ
>Painting Videos only
https://mega.co.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA
>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw
>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU
>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/
>In the face of death, I shall have no remorse.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_ZgyNoHtjw
>Previous thread:
>>47236780
>Thread before that one:
>>47220834
>>47256756
The basing saga continues!
The "Milestone" (grey) has been dry brushed on over the "Tawny Port" (crimson with a hint of brown).
Now on to tundra grass tufts and then snow!
>>47259115
I like your stuff. very nice blue hue.
I want to airbrush in my room. What's the best spray booth solution?
>>47259601
Thank you very much!
Here is a better side by side instead of between two threads.
>>47258968
Ok, so.
I want to ask you niggas, how do you paint/prime/assemble/etc your miniatures?
I got into this hobby last month with 10 marines and I assembled them fully, put them on their bases, then primed and now while painting I got a really big problem, some dudes have their arms in front of their chest so I can't paint their chests properly.
I've seen people just cut the bits off the sprues and then glue the bits on little sticks, put those sticks into styrofoam and then prime AND paint them on those sticks and they leave the assembly at the end. But I thought that gluing already primed and/or painted bits isn't a great idea since the glue might actually just break the paint from one part and just fall off.
>>47259646
>>47259115
Does anyone know of a good Human model to combine with Fire Warrior bits to make a Cadre Fireblade? Cant decide if i want him tech'd up, or more military officer dressed for morale. He's going with my human division of FW's made of Cadians if that helps
>>47259650
just don't paint where you need to glue, either mask it or sand it off after the primer dries
>>47259650
>I got into this hobby last month with 10 marines and I assembled them fully, put them on their bases, then primed and now while painting I got a really big problem, some dudes have their arms in front of their chest so I can't paint their chests properly.
OK, so, voyage of discovery here, anon, you figured out the hard way that you should *not* assemble *everything* fully before painting.
It's a combination of personal preference and what the models are actually going to be doing/what they look like. I like to put the legs and sometimes the torso together on the base, and add some basing material (the kind you'll need to paint over, usually) before I prime. In the odd case where a Space Marine's arm *isn't* going to interfere with the painting of his plastron - you can see one or two in [pic related] - I'll even glue those on.
The rest of the stuff is painted and primed separately.
>I've seen people just cut the bits off the sprues and then glue the bits on little sticks, put those sticks into styrofoam and then prime AND paint them on those sticks and they leave the assembly at the end.
That's how I do heads. That Space Marines have a convenient "neck hole" in the gorget makes this a snap. It also allows you to choose a different head at the last minute or - if yer looney - magnetize them and swap them out between games!
>But I thought that gluing already primed and/or painted bits isn't a great idea since the glue might actually just break the paint from one part and just fall off.
This is more prone to happen if you use superglue instead of plastic cement. Of course, with metal models, plastic cement won't be doing anything for you, anyway. You can counter this by:
Pinning the parts together with a metal rod before gluing
Scraping away the paint down to the bare surface before applying the adhesive
Masking the surface(s) before painting to keep paint off them altogether
/wip/, how do I into basing?
Looking at GW's Urban basing videos, cutting up some sprue and using it as rubble looks like a good idea, but I've not a clue on anything else, as I don't have any texture paints either.
If I did order some, what should I use to spread it?
>>47259832
Fuck me, I use only super glue so I guess that's better I was able to snap an arm off a dude pretty easily now I think that one of my models falls down or something it would've snapped anyway. I guess I'll just have to snap all the arms off, paint them, sand the glue places up and then glue them back together. God damn it.
Painting each separate bit seems interesting to me tho it would be like picking the arms/legs/torso/any other bit, gluing them together and then just go play or something.
I'm about to paint my next cadian tank, what do you guys think about a base coat of army green before I do another base coat of the GW green I've been using just to make it less of a pain, or will the green be too different
>>47260019
Depends on what kind of base you want. The classic sand and faux-grass is pretty simple and can look pretty nice.
Want easy rocks? Take fine sand and/or gravel, paint em black and then dry-brush grey. Tree bark is great for bigger rocks, as is cork.
You looking for anything in particular?
>>47260155
I'm thinking about either a rocky desert or semi-urban feel.
I'm also conflicted on whether to make my tank blue with tan camouflage, or vice versa.
Here's a pic of a snapfit guardsman I did a couple weeks ago, haven't had time to start anything else yet.
>>47260333
Agrellan Earth with a wash is really easy for instant dry cracked earth and can be combined with grass and rocks as you desire
A technique I really like, but works best before painting is to spread liquid super glue on the base, then sprinkle a mixture of baking soda and sand.
To scale, sand ends up looking like very course gravel or small rocks and doesn't look good on its own, as where baking soda ends up looking like dirt or sand.
By tilting the base as you sprinkle the baking soda you can get a ripple effect
I'll take some pictures of this in a bit
>>47260333
This guy>>47260413
He knows what's up. Haven't played around with the texture paints, but some of them look pretty sweet.
Making progress on mein Scorpions. Pics if I can get my damn camera to work.
>>47260413
>>47260493
Thanks mates!
Still unsure whether to make my Leman Russ Blue with Tan camo, or the reverse.
In my head, blue as the main color seems ideal, but tan might just turn out better. It would also match the color scheme more properly, looking at other IG colors.
>>47260708
I'd go with a base of tan and blue for armor panels on the turret or some such. Maybe some sort of blue splotching for camouflage?
The tricky part is make sure that the blue pops, but doesn't overwhelm the other colors. Looking at my own Russ (being a green with a light tan/green vertical striping) I see a couple of places where you could go solid blue. Those are: the connection between the turret barell portion and the rest of the barrel, the two armored plates just before the barrel and the edges that run around the sides of the tank. Paint the rest tan and those blue. See what you think.
some robots
>>47260413
>>47260493
>>47260708
>>47261088
NICE MOLD LINE ARE YOUR BOOT NERD
>>47261088
that looks like vomit or a pancake
>>47260890
I think I'll just paint it a solid tan, and then see what I can do from there.
Maybe do some braded camo using abbadon black and a line of pallid wych flesh on top of the zandri dust near it?
>>47261180
that one I tilted the base a little too much. maybe this one looks better?
>>47261160
>NICE MOLD LINE ARE YOUR BOOT NERD
back in my day we couldn't afford real boots so we made them out of mold lines and LIKED it that way
Simple as fuck bases.
>>47259659
Started to added the tundra tufts. This is kinda fun.
>>47262208
Got the rest of the guys caught up!
>>47262218
Making some longer, dry bits of grass.
Made from cheap as/and shit craft brushes.
I glued the very tips with krazy glue and pressed together.
Once dry I cut them off from the entire brush in one piece.
Then I simply cut a piece of appropriate size with a sharp blade, add a dab of glue, and apply.
>>47262256
Applying them to some hills at the same time.
Voila! I like it.
I want to prime some shit with Army Painter sprays, do I have to use the white/black undercoat primer and then follow up after it dries with a color primer? Or can I go straight to the color primer?
I'm a tard when it comes to keeping my brushes clean. How would you recommend getting clogged paint out of brushes?
>>47262345
This is all you need, it works like bloody magic.
Has a nice lemony smell too.
>>47262256
I was just about to ask you got so many of them, good idea
>>47262438
Oh lawd. Lemon scent. Thanks, anon.
Finished my WYSIWYG Dark Artisan and Archon. I used the Haywire guns from both Parasite Engine kits to make my Scourges WYSIWYG, 4 Haywire, 1 Shardcarbine.
>>47262710
needs paint to be finished
>>47262957
Well, they're finished building. I still have a good bit more things to build before I get to painting them.
>>47259650
You cover the parts you're going to glue with sticky tack/masking tape or scrape it off with a knife.
I started with full assembly and found it annoying so now I just prime each part individually with the areas to be glued masked off.
It takes more time and effort but I prefer the convenience of painting. To be honest all you need to do is leave arms/weapons, helmet, and maybe backpack off.
My Genestealer Cult - The Brothers Aberrant.
They're about 80% done? In case anyone's Interested.
Flesh -
>Daemonette Hide Base
>Druchii violet + medium wash
>Warpfiend Grey layer
>Slaanesh Grey highlights
Boils - (now I haven't decided if I'm going to leave them red and sore, or turn them into pustules - but at the time of the picture)
>Carroburg Crimson + medium wash (over the flesh colour of Warpfiend grey)
>Blood for the blood god
Metals -
>Leadbelcher base
>multiple washes of Nuln oil
>One wash of Agrax
>final was of nuln
>Runefang silver highlight
Things left to do
>Tidy up the skin
>Skulls held in hands
>Chitin on Power Pick guy on far right in picture
>Tongue blending on 3 of them
>Highlight Red Rags
>Highlight black rags
>retouch up claws worn away during painting
>final coat of paint on base rim
Jesus Christ...
>>47262438
Fuck me, i don't know where to buy this in my country. I guess i'll have to order it from abroad or something
Elven stormcasts, because why not
I secretly love capes and would enjoy putting one on my Space Marine, but I already have the model done up. I want to find a model that I can easily trim the cape off of and attach to like, his backpack or something. Just how attached are the capes usually to Space Marine models?
>>47262438
Skub, not even once.
>>47258968
Operation Greif, German infiltrators for the Battle of the Bulge. Kitbashed the Warlord games Ami amd German plastic boxes to represent the lack pf Ami equipment they had. Turned a kubelwagen into a kubel-jeep. The M10ther is an untouched Warlord one. 5 Einheit Stielau men to do, need to be done before next Saturday but im on track.
>>47263557
SKUB FOR LIFE
>>47263506
usually it is part of the back, but sometimes it is part of the backpack
one of these days I will finish a project
>>47262710
My Dark Kin! I´m working on a Corpsethief Claw Formation to accompany my Dark Artisan myself (no camera unfortunately). Just wanted to ask; are these your first Engines of Pain? If they are, I just wanna advice you to BE CAREFUL. Those little arms, antennas and vials break easy, especially when drybrushing. Slightest pressure on those Chain-flails will break them, be extra careful with those. The little arms should be glued at two points of contact for stability. Trust me on this, I know. Hope this helps!
>>47263582
I'm painting up old Epic stuff. It's an easy motivator because all the Units were on cards at the time and I can break it down into detatchments and companies... So I've painted up a whole Evil-Sunz Clan, then all the Infantry for the Bad Moons (Though I ran out of steam with the suporting Gargant Big Mob and Braincrushas... too much Yellow :P) And I'm about done with the Blood Axes... with their experimental Great Gargant. It has a Snapper rather than a Belly-Gun, and a ton of Scorcher turrets. Not sure that it'll ever live long enough to use most of its weapons. Gargants are REALLY slow and the only long-range guns it carries are the auxilliary ones strapped to its ripper-fist. Should have enough infantry to make one or two more clans before I need to go shopping again... Just gotta decide which clan I want next, Death Skullz Maybe? Might go Stompa-heavy with them.
*RAMBLE, RAMBLE, RAMBLE*
>>47263562
Nice work anon.
>>47263470
You might as well do some proper custodes bruv.
>>47263562
Good job on the scenery. It's lovely.
>>47263797
>>47263804
Cheers guys. The base board was easy to make but Im really happy how it came out.
>>47263335
These are beautiful Anon, keep it up!
>go to take pictures
>forget that my old POS camera will invariably be dead and I have no batteries left
Can anyone recommend a modest camera for model pictures and the occasional convention that WON'T eat through fresh AAs in literally fifteen minutes?
>>47261084
>>47261129
Mah mechanicus niggah
love me some wandering Toughness 7 robots.
a stronger scorched effect on the flamers would be nice though, and the bases are alittle boring.
still a nice job anon.
>>47263562
zog me thats nice looking
Could you guys help me out with colours? I'm not quite at the point where I can pick out what paints would be good where. I'm painting leather using this guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RuunLBVBdKcFor those of you who don't want to watch the video he: basecoats in XV-88, washes in Agrax earthshade, drybrush XV-88. He then mixes XV-88 with Ushabti Bone and drybrushes, gradually increasing the amount of Ushabti bone with each time. After all that he brings the colours together with a light wash of seraphim sepia.
Would it be possible to do the same thing with purple? I was thinking using Naggaroth Night for the base and Druchii Violet for the wash but I have no idea for the brighter one that gets mixed in. I'm going for a sort of sleepy, nighttime deep purple. Pic related. Thanks in advance.
>>47264272
>Mechanicus
Rejoice! For Adeptus Titanicus is coming back, in 8mm scale.
>>47264398
Can't wait
>>47261084
CUTEstalan robots more like
They're pretty nice, but those bases could be better. I get the impression you weren't quite as generous with the Martian Ironearth as you could have been, but then maybe the camera is obscuring the detail.
The fraying paint on the guy front right looks nice, try and do more of that if you can.
>>47262181
>wasting money on those basing pastes
Just use wood putty.
Not sure if this is right thread to ask, but is this a good enough method for storing models in transit, /wip/?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0PgIjAiz0rA
Boxes like that are small enough for me to fit into a little backpack discreetly, as if I walk around my town with a model case people will probably throw things at me.
>>47263565
FUCK SKUB FUCK YOU
>>47264515
Or wall filler, costs £1 for a 1kg tub here in Bong
>>47261250
Dude. Just do straight baking soda.
It makes it look like dirt to scale of the model.
>>47264583
we win
>>47264618
GENTLEMEN! THE KING! NA NA NA NA NA-NAAAA! NA NA NA NA NA-NAAAA! NA NA NA NAAAAA!
>>47264641
HEY! Not so loud
>>47264583
Wood putty gives a nice realistic texture to earth.
working on my black templars landing craft
>>47258968
building a foamboard chasis for the carcassonne bigbox that will fit all carcassonne expansions and mini expansions.
Finally finished my battlewagon
pt1
>>47264997
pt 2
>>47265002
pt 3
>>47265013
and last one
>>47265028
Looking good bud. Good job on the yellow!
I'd add some battle damage and weathering though.
>>47262710
those are a major bitch to paint fully assembled. enjoy
>>47264997
>>47265002
>>47265013
>>47265028
looking good man! Nice yellow
And reposting, colors are a little washed out though
Any good tutorials on airbrush techniques for painting vehicles?
>>47263730
>>47262710
>Corpsethievery Intensifies
Love me the Ham cults formations. So much beef from an army that isn't known to have much backbone. Whats your color scheme gonna be?
>>47265396
also because basing seems to be the order of the day....
>>47264652
That's actually crazy cool looking. Is it drybrushable and does it hold paint well? something like that, a light drybrush with light gray or white and some leaves would look really cool as a dingy autumn road.
>>47265450
This is primed, basecoat + drybrush.
>>47264652
>>47265479
neato. So do you just mix it together then smear it on the base and wait for it to dry?
>>47265494
It's not a mix, it comes in a tube. I just put some on the base then use some sculpting tool to distribute it evenly. Dries rock hard within an hour.
>>47261088
It's a lace, not a mold line
>>47263335
Amazing! i have wanted a genestealer cult for avout 12 years, i bought 2.5 sets of the overkill cult models, been struggling to find the Time to even assemble them, have you painted the others? I think you should make those bumps pus filled as they stand out a little too much, love the detail on the weapon handles too... Gonna go grab my clippers and assemble some more!
>>47265511
ah cool thanks
>>47263335
i like them anon!
only 1 more to detail and touch up, i hope i can make some time later today
>>47265494
>>47265525
Another example, right after primer.
Anyone in here ever worked with Blender or know a better place on 4chan to ask?
>>47265564
nice. I've just primed some tanks I built years ago
>shaken can for a couple of minutes
>20cm away
>outside
>spray
>primer leaves the can then sprays off in whatever direction it wants
>primer on hetzer too thick
>primer on tiger spackley. Dont think I've primed it properly
>grey primer on grey models
send help
>>47265627
Technically you need to head to /3/ for that kinda thing. Although I honestly can't reccomend the community there.
>>47265089
im afraid i will fuck up the weathering, it looks so crisp and clean now. any tips how to do batlle damage?
>>47265740
Warhammer TV or just youtube it to see it in progress.
If you're worried about weathering, why not hold off for now and try it on your Dredz or Kans, then come back when you are more confident
>>47265627
Haven't worked much with Blender itself, but have worked with alot of similar programs, and i do 3D modelling and texture work for a living, so i can give some limited help.
as >>47265669 said, /3/ isnt a great place to go.
>>47265898
I do CAD for a living, NX CAD to be precise, and was planning to just CAD some models to get better at the program, but just as a very basic question, how does a program like Blender track the real world size of the .stl file it will eventually generate? How do I make sure that I'm making a 1" grid with it?
>>47265923
You can usually set blender's units to a scale. I think the default is actually metres.
>>47265923
as >>47265937 said, the should be an option to control Blender unit scale.
It's pretty much a standart for all 3D program these days.
>>47265954
>>47265937
Do 3D modelling programs like Blender allow going back to the initial sketch/block and changing parameters and having everything extrapolate again?
>>47265981
What, you mean like transforming and resizing?
>>47266001
>What, you mean like transforming and resizing?
Pic related?
>>47264997
>>47265002
>>47265013
>>47265028
Collage your pics pls.
>>47266126
Yes. You can. Press 's' in object mode and have fun.
>>47265740
Doctor Faust's Morkanaut video shows him doing battle damage (scratches etc.) on yellow.
https://youtu.be/WBtISNOKgjc
>>47264997
>>47265002
>>47265013
>>47265028
What was your recipe for the yellow? I was looking to do something close to it.
>>47266339
1. Primed black (don thave white)
2. 4-5 layers of yellow (its still thick on some places)
3. focussed wash agrax earthshade
4. drybrush hexos palesun yellow
5. glaze with lamenters yellow
>>47266430
I'll try it out, thanks.
progress on my giant, as I'm typing, the shitty glue I used made white shit around the right arm and legs, and the stuffs on his belt, the little bird, his right hand and the base itself didn't glue, so I still have to wait like 2 days before finishing him
>>47264652
That actually looks too realistic, like it actually has mud on it which is kind of cool.
>>47266657
You are suppossed to paint it.
My hands are getting sweaty as hell. And it has been only 3rd layer.
>>47266732
That is impressive. Very nice paintjob.
>>47264988
this shit takes so much glue
>>47263470
>playing AoS
>>47264997
I fucking love a nice, consistent yellow. Great job anon. I like how you managed to make it look dirty around the edges and rivets while keeping the armour itself clean
>>47265180
really nice freehanding there anon. I do agree with you on the colours being washed out, but it really is an impressive piece regardless
Is there a citadel painting guide for Dark Eldars featuring Black Heart kabal? SM one features faction posterboys, Ultramarines.
Flayed Skull looks better anyway, but it's kida weird.
Just bought some weathering powders. Not really used them before. Any good tips on using them? Just a quick try as i got through the door. Slight weathering on the shadowsword. None on the baneblade for comparison.
>>47267323
>Any good tips on using them?
No clue, havent used that stuff either yet
>>47267323
there are great videos on YT. Just google it.
It helps to look at vehicles that have actually been trudging through whatever terrain your using.
>>47262256
>>47262513
>>47262276
Cut them down further and using a blade and scissors, randomized their height and shape and then roughed them up a bit by pressing them against my finger tips (like stippling).
>>47263571
Kinda like these? http://anvilindustry.co.uk/Exo-Lords/Cloaks-and-Loincloths/Regal-Cloaks
>>47265408
post ur wracks
>>47267865
And applied to some terrain (and some a select few Thousand Sons models).
>>47264652
wood putty seems pretty expensive at 7€ for 50g here in finland
how many bases would 50g cover?
>>47264528
Sure but you aren't going to get a ton of models in there.
If it's just looks and not cash that's an issue, camera bags and cases make great options that don't look like model transports.
>>47265740
Painting budda on youtube has some nice stuff for subtle weathering.
Wheatering eldar vehicles y/n?
>>47266576
Love the stubble.
>>47268727
I think you should. You rarely see it and it's not like they aren't also getting shot at and having rocks and shit kicked up near them.
>>47266892
>opinions
piss off.
>>47266576
(you)
>>47260091
It's just for convenience, no need to go full Congo
>>47262256
>>47262513
this is much messier but it works just as well. If you take a doormat and cut it up you can use pliers or even your fingers to rip the fabric off it and use it as grass, you can also cut in into shapes and use them as fields and hedges. Also rubbing the cut shapes together will give you loads and loads of pieces of fabric
>>47267936
those are a 3rd party bit
the GW bits are usually built into the model, though I think some of the newer kits might do it differently
>>47268887
Do you have any pictures of this method/technique/resource in use (that is, on terrain and/or models)?
Would this count as Mysterious Terrain?
>>47268939
sometimes when I walk through the streets downtown I wish I had a respirator. I hate smelling that shit, especially when mixed with the smells of urine and tar.
>>47268984
Okay.
>>47263335
these are superb! near studio quality - would love to get a game against an army painted like this
>>47268923
I have these links
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJzD5GIvvrQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fkvpUdEccoM
>>47268939
GTFO THIS IS A STRAIGHT EDGE BOARD
>>47264883
Does it hold drop pods or what is that thing? It looks good
>>47265180
Fucking nice dude 10/0
>>47265628
Lack of pressure in the can I guess. Alternatively grab some vallejo ghost grey or negro airbrush primer and just drybrush it on. Works for everything
>>47269043
Thanks.
I am not sure if that would fit into my table, but a nice resource none the less.
>>47269131
thanks man I was thinking I'd have to go back to the old technique of heavy drybrush of black, white or grey like when doing metal GW minis
>>47259659
> that blue
> that jade
>>47269131
Agreed. Could also be that the paint wasn't mixed thoroughly enough due to aging.
Also, /wip/'s answer to most anything: have you tried dry-bushing?
>>47269300
Thanks :D
I should take some close ups of all the force weapons. I haven't done that since I have completed them all.
>>47269214
no problem I bought a Bolt Action starter set and I cut up a mat for hedgerows and fields. Like you say not for everyone but a nice resource.
Does anyone make steam/dieselpunk mechs in this sort of style? I can get some Death Korps of Krieg models relatively cheaply but I want to distance them from the usual 'siege master' regiments and go a bit weird with them.
>>47269733
what about checking ebay for the grey knights or SOB dreadnought mech?
Salamanders librarian WiP
Decided to go with the green/red and one blue shoulderpad.
Also, do i need to THIN more?
>>47269781
looks pretty thin mate
eager to see the rest, keep us posted
>>47269781
The most important thing is not to put gold directly over black. Put it over a copper or brown or yellow, or even a silver, but full gold coverage looks thick whether or not it is. Paints might be a tiny bit thick but it's pretty good.
>>47269762
Wasn't necessarily thinking GW, I play with mates so 3rd party stuff is fine.
>>47269816
Cheers anon
>>47269820
Yeah, mainly the gold looked thick to me
That's exactly what i did. First a layer of balthasar gold right on the black primer and then Gehenna's gold.
Thanks for the advice
so just got my first fine cast model and none of it fits together...
holy shit who in their right mind would use this?
>>47266846
pretty much enough space for all tile expansions of 12 tiles or more.
now i just need to make trays that fit in the empty part to separate all player colors and expansion specific pieces.
Pulled deez ladz frumm da broff today.
>>47269733
I'd try converting up a Penitent engine or a sentinel. Maybe look at WFB Fantasy bits as well for torso, or Ork Killer Kan?
>>47269733
>>47269836
>>47270117
Old Killa Kan body with sentinel legs, that'd be a lot of work though since Kan the legs are part of the body. As for arms, maybe something from a Warjack?
Also, no, don't know of any third parties that make stuff like that.
>>47270177
Defiler legs?
>>47269353
I'm a plauge marine player that loves decay as much as the next guy but I love the fancy way the thousand sons look. How'd you do it?
>>47266430
try out gw tutorial of paiting gorkanaut, nice tut with paiting yellow
>>47269733
google dust tactics
>>47270736
Base with a shiny, bright silver is the key and then properly thinning your Washes with Lahmian Medium.
I find Runefang Steel is too dark and hard to get really smooth. It will leave your model looking kinda dirty or dull in the end. I don't think Liquid Silver is bright enough either, and again, it just won't be as smooth and slick as when applied from a spray can.
For the base, I use Krylon Metallic Silver Paint+Primer spray paint. Nice and shiny, very bright (almost white) and goes on nice and smooth.
*DO shake the can very well. I do 15 seconds one hand, 15 seconds the other hand and upside down, 15 seconds the other hand right side up, and again 15 seconds in the other hand upside down again.
*DO pay attention to the weather and use the spray paint in less than 50% humidity.
*DON'T spray on a windy day or do so in an isolated, yet well vented area.
*These are more important to pay attention to than regular spray paints, although you should listen to this advice regardless.
Then I do thinned washes of Asurmen Blue in a 3:5 ratio with Lahmian Medium.
Once dry, I do a light dry brushing of Runefang Steel over the armour to brighten some areas up.
Once that is completely dry, I do another thinned wash at the same ratio.
Once that is dry, I do a third wash, but this time 2:5 Asurmen Blue to Lahmian Medium.
Then edge highlight with Runefang Steel (which I have yet to do).
The gold is done the same, but with Gryphonne Sepia instead, and usually a 4th wash as well.
In btwn the gold and blue armour parts I do a number of very thin washed of Nuhl Oil with my smallest detail brush.
Badda Bing!
Any other questions?
First of the truescale noise marines hope this ends up as good as i think it will went with the guitar style noise weapons
>>47271420
Back view
>>47271420
Dunno man. Doesn't really look like a guitar to me. You could do better.
>>47271487
Slaanesh baby spawn in the works still
>>47271547
well I was kinda going for a mix of guitair/modern noise weapons
>>47271557
I am not seeing an eye tits here.
>>47271547
>>47271602
Looking great, tho :)
>>47264398
>8mm scale
Fukken dropT
>>47269733
>Does anyone make steam/dieselpunk mechs in this sort of style?
Lissen ta dis lad:
>>47271286
>google dust tactics
Pic related.
Alright, just fiished painting the last of my snapfit guardsmen. I feel like I've slightly improved doing faces/flesh, but I still feel like it's not good enough, and I can see a couple spots where I messed up with the paints.
>>47269078
Funnily enough, I'm willing to bet that /tg/ is probably one of the "cleanest" hobby board on that subject, what with gaming etiquette and all.
On the other hand, we get the unwashed nerds as well.
>>47271772
oh, calm down captain judgmental
>>47271726
You know you'll come back.
Most important thing is, the scale in the old AT was all othet the place, so if they actually stick to one scale for this one, it'll go much better.
What's the best citadel paint for stones/stone ornaments?
Some grey probably
>>47271804
What's that citizenMamaPossesion of narcotics? How do you plead?
>>47271850
I please innocent with a license to grow for personal use and consume for medical reasons.
>>47271881
While pleased to be innocent, I also plead and declare my innocence ;)
>>47271820
I'd say dawnstone. It's light enough that it'll still look good after you put a wash over it.
>>47271881
>>47271896
Defense noted.
>>47272140
WOULDN'T *THAT* BE A TRIP?!
After 10k years is it too unreasonable to believe Forgebreaker would end up in the hands of an Ork Warboss?
>>47272400
Give that a Rokkit booster and its golden
>>47271578
Well it looks like neither.
Try again.
>>47272400
oh my god this >>47272420
I literally cannot stop gluing my fingers together.
More progress
>>47271763
Looking solid. Did you use any washes?
Working on the armour of my Ironjawz. Nothing else on them is close to done.
>>47272796
Wasn't a big fan of these guys when I first saw them but in the colours you've chosen they look fantastic. Think I might have to rethink my choice of fantasy army.
My friend and I just recently took the plunge into starting the Batman miniature game. Ended up going Black Mask as my crew but this guy was a must have when I saw him in the store. Had a lot of fun painting him too but god damn the weight has destroyed my wrist.
>>47272909
His back. Tried to get a bit of contrast in the skin.
Does anyone have that infograph for painting Heresy Alpha Legion with washes and such?
>>47272660
I used Agrax Earthshade for the fatigues, armor, and skin. Nuln Oil for the metal and emblems.
Also, how do I get rid of pic related on my models, /wip/? Use the moldine remover until it's gone, paint over it, or did I just screw up when I cut it out of the sprue?
>>47271351
>>47270736
>>47269353
>>47269300
>>47262218
As promised earlier, here is a collage of my dark green marble Force Weapons for my Thousand Sons.
So I'm following StrikingScorpion82's guide to painting Imperial Fists and I need to pick up a grey colored primer here in the US...anybody have any recommendations? This is my first time "painting" yellow so I'm cheating and priming grey, base spraying white, and lightly doing yellow spray on top.
>>47273283
negro thats damn sexy
>>47273283
Damn, some jade lookin' shit right there fampai.
>>47273160
Take a nail file to it and the line that runs under the arm. Should fix it right up..
>>47271578
>>47272440
this guy is being an overly nitpicking spastic, the main issue is your guitars need strings. slap some tiny greenstuff tubes on there as strings and maybe poke some holes in the speakers and it will look great
>>47273669
he kinda reminds me of those guys that cant sculpt for a damn and only uses green stuff to fill in a gap if that
>>47272400
It was made by literal faggot and ended up in hands of space gypsies, why not give it to space niggers.
>>47265396
I'm going with the standard color scheme. The other ones in the book didn't really appeal to me much.
Next, more mold line filing and barrel drilling, but the shoulder pads are all attached
>>47274550
>>47274566
Throwing this guy in with them on the battlefield.
>>47274586
And they'll be led by this guy, who will have a fancy color scheme and a different base in case I want to use him for something else.
I was thinking black armor with a yellow cape but I'm welcoming suggestions.
A great guy at my FLGS painted this guy's helmet and poison vials for me. The picture really doesn't do it justice.
And I finished my Knight. Except for the base and repositioning the waist magnet and the heraldry.
>>47274639
Boo
>>47258968
What size wire would I want to use for tentacles that are Imperial Knight sized? THey'd be replacing the legs
>>47274639
>>47274666
Paints not thinned, mold lines visible, smears visible. Disgusting, 2/10 due to good pose and some weathering, probably chinacast.
>>47274639
>basing after painting
>>47262710
Fixed my Arhcon's pose to not be so retarded. Found a nice new arm on the Ravager sprue.
>>47273669
There we go behold strings!! now perhaps Autismo Nitpicker of /tg/ will be satisfied
>>47274604
CARCHARODONS
>>47274801
>No frets
COME ON ANON, GET IT TOGETHER
>>47273329
>So I'm following StrikingScorpion82's guide to painting Imperial Fists and I need to pick up a grey colored primer here in the US...anybody have any recommendations? This is my first time "painting" yellow so I'm cheating and priming grey, base spraying white, and lightly doing yellow spray on top.
Do they still make Zynolyte Light Gray All-Purpose Spray Primer?
Hmmm... well, they call it something else now, but yeah, looks like they do!
>>47274701
>neither of your statements are true
8/10 made me reply
>>47274736
>Basing before painting
It's an arctic base so it needs too look like snow is getting kicked up on the feet
>>47259650
>>47275267
>>47275359
>>47275703
woah... just like real life
>>47264583
does wall filler stick to plastic? i have heard it just slides off of it
>>47259115
all is dust, fellow 1k
>>47273329
Rust oleum.
>>47276885
That. And its summer time. Stupid people have more free time to say stupid things.
General question: when painting red, does /wip/ suggest a white or a black undercoat?
>>47277083
Black, always black, if you need to go lighter, spray white over black.
>>47277083
>General question: when painting red, does /wip/ suggest a white or a black undercoat?
I always use a white undercoat, but I'm going specifically for that bright Second Edition Blood Angels Red look.
>>47273283
>>47262276
>>47268353
>>47267865
My first attempt at snow ever!
First bit applied to first piece of terrain as a test.
Now on to applying snow to the Sons and more terrain!
>>47277111
Nope.
Grey.
>>47277234
Oh, sorry, my bad. I thought you were the one asking what colour to use.
*I* recommend grey instead of white or black.
>>47277246
>*I* recommend grey instead of white or black.
I used to use grey - specifically, Zynolyte Light Gray All-Purpose Spray Primer - but I noticed a distinct difference between the brightness of the red on those models vs the ones I primed white. Personally, I prefer the brighter red that I got over the white undercoat. I have a feeling that even among Blood ANgel players, I'd be in the minority on that one, though.
>>47277083
black is good if you are a beginner as it will hide mistakes later
white is brightest and gives the best color, but if you don't cover it completely it looks really bad
I use GW Corax White, which is a very light grey
>>47264997
>
>>47265002
>>47265013
>>47265028
Very nice. Now get a sponge and weather the shit out of it
>>47269816
best compliment that could ever come from /tg/
>>47277172
Snow Job number 2.
>>47268939
You should blaze through that terrain.
>>47278188
I have that same pink soap brush cleaner. We are connected now anon. A bond you might say.
>>47274625
Looks really good.
>>47272630
>"WHERE DA ZOG ARE WE GOIN?!"
>"IT DOZENT MATTAH! ALL DAT MATTAHS IS HOW FAST WEZ GET DERE! WAAAAGGH!"
Its not fully done yet, but its the first time i try painting armor. I may have overdone the wash i think.
>>47278606
I'd put it in my army with no questions asked.
Only thing is the barrel on the heavy bolter and the treads. I'd silver em both up and then shade the fuck out of both of them.