No WIP thread on /tg/?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!
>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here
>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
https://mega.co.nz/#F!OgpwzAKS!a5eVE6pOagTTOWEr5tEaEQ
>Painting Videos only
https://mega.co.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA
>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw
>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU
>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
Previous Thread:
>>46180841
Handy-dandy photography guide ...
Handy-dandy white guide ...
>>46206053
Here's the majority of it. The blue brushes with the caps are my detailing brushes (camel hair I think,) that I don't want to drybrush with. I also have an adjustable magnefying glass with clamps on it.
Hey /wip/, so a few days ago I asked about my idea for a recipe for painting black power armor. Since some Anon asked me to post results... well, here I am.
What I did:
Black primer, gray zenithal, lighter gray selective highlight, multiple layers of black wash, few black lines. Some things I've noticed:
the lighter gray highlight was pretty much a waste of time;
washing (at least without diluting it) seems bad, since the line where the wash starts is clearly visible on otherwise almost perfectly smooth transition after airbrushing.
So how do you like it Anons? Is it good enough for something like TT+?
>>46206361
I'd suggest investing on ink/wash or few. Good ol' ink wash in the recesses will bring out the detail pretty much every time.
Black and brown washes are a must.
>>46206374
So far it doesn't look bad.
I think wether or not it works how you imagined is something you can on decide once you put the grey into context with the rest of the figure though.
If the trims look too 'high contrast' they'll drown out the gradient on the armor plates.
Keep painting on this one a little more and see how it goes. Edge highlighting is a very 'loud' way of painting, it really stands out and creates stark contrasts. This approach is a lot softer. So might look different from two or three feet away. Hope that made sense.
I like what I'm seeing so far though. Got potential.
>>46206361
>>46206361
Alright, I'd say your problems with painting are more due to your lack of experimentation than due to your equipment. I'm not 100%% solid that those acrylics on the right are ok on miniatures regardless.
I saw some drybrushing in you models, I'd suggest you to try different highlighting methods.
The colours seem also very plain, with little regard to color theory, and quite chalky.
The big model you posted has black and red but it also has green and purple. those colours don't go well together, it just feels artificial.
Try keeping a more limited palette, you can always use one or two very bright, clashing colours, but on small amounts and to determine focal points, again, don't just paint the spikes white, add some washes, add a highlight, using a single colour per part just makes it feel plain, shadows and lights add an extra 3-d depth.
And try to keep those colours less chalky. 4-5 very thin layers help, but then again I don't know how much pigment is in those other acrylics on the right, which might be hindering your work.
And most of all, keep experimenting, keep trying.
Column for Infinity Ariadna (the chu chu train guy)
Smashed these TW out yesterday, really enjoyed it too and motivated myself to get more shit painted. Can anyone give me tips on getting my bases looking like the basing is all one solid piece? Atm my bases just look like I PVA glued a handful of tiny brown stones to my base and I see other stuff that looks like there is some sort of filler in with all the stones.
How would I go about painting white pants on a model? I'm getting back into the hobby and will be painting some pikemen tomorrow with pants where one leg is blue and the other white.
Any tips would be appreciated.
(almost) finished basecoats of my deffkoptas. Now just bath in holy agrax and time to highlights, chipping and checkers.
>>46206656
Thanks for the kind words Anon. The thing is I fucking hate edge highlighting and prefer calmer blacks, as in without much contrast.
>>46207010
I'm jealous of your ability to lay down such a pristine yellow. Looking great so far.
>>46207135
primed with bone colour form AP, then just 2 coats of averland sunset and 1 layer of yriel yellow for extra shine. It's silly easy with propa primer. I've painted yellow on black primer some time ago and it was pain in ass, over 8 layers, and it was still orange'ish.
Apologies for the shitty pic, but this is more of a colour scheme question than asking for feedback.
I need to mark one of these guys out as a sergeant but I wasn't sure how to go about doing it, any ideas?
>>46206810
Ok, thanks for your advice! I realize the green and purple paint clashes terribly, I thought it would come out more pastel and less like a super soaker.
A few questions:
1. When are the best times for wash coats? Like should I do a base coat, wash, then re-apply the base color in spots as a way of highlighting?
2. Should I be painting all my pieces before building? I typically only do the spots that will be impossible to reach, but should I do all of them before I assemble?
My ultimate goals are to build a necron army andchaos demon army but I want to make them top tier. It seems pike necrons are pretty easy but require a lot of black and silver.
>>46207346
different colour hood maybe
>>46207376
That's what I was thinking but I don't know what colour to go for
>>46207420
black
>>46207456
I was going to save that for my stormtroopers but maybe I will
>>46207346
add something to his headgear?
any tips/critiques for literally my first WiP? I plan to get metallic silver and gold for the weapons and collar. Obviously need a smaller brush to work on details. I'm having trouble figuring out how to make the white pop, it looks very chalky to me right now.
>>46207590
Tidy this shit up, finish the base coating and wash it then come back. you can't judge it at this stage.
>>46207590
Well, it's your first WiP, so I could complain about everything. The colors aren't opaque, the paint is messy and not clean at all, there is paint everywhere getting into parts where is shouldn't be.
The paint is thin, though, which is why it isn't opaque
Bit more progress on the battlewagon
>>46207590
Are you even trying? You should figure out how not to get paint everywhere before you even think about stuff like "making the white pop".
>>46207875
Do the exhaust pipes lead somewhere on the other side of the wall?
Dooors! The one with the ram's head if going to the be the front door to the malifaux mansion I'm working on
>>46198219
I am a bit behind in Malifaux lore, but even if it is a crater I'll still have a nice bit of terrain to use.
>>46207875
That's gonna be a big bitch. I like how it's looking so far.
Since we're doing the first ever WiPs, here is mine.
Obviously need to watch where the fuck i put my brush
Also i bought Gehenna's gold instead of balthazar gold for the aquila and skulls which didn't work out so well
>>46208165
I hate to be the one saying it, but you need to thin your paints.
Some of the detail of the model is caked in paint.
As a rule of thumb applying multiple thin coats is better than one thick one, in just about every situation. Aside from that - considering it's your first ever WIP - it's not that bad actually.
Keep working on your brush control and keep thinning in mind and you should see some improvement soon. Shouldn't take you long to arrive at a decent tabletop standard.
>>46208165
THIN YOUR PAINTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
but seriously, ghennas gold works fine, it jus ttakes 2-4 coats
and go touch up all your shit
First time doing something more than filling gaps between bits.
used milliput for the body and green stuff for the details...there's still a long way to go tho.
Currently working on the hands(its horrifying), added a banner on the right hand(taken from the bloodletters sprue)and i was thinking on adding something on the head and the back, maybe a hooded cloak?
>>46208165
Remember to shake gehenna thoroughly or it'll act like red water
>>46208397
>>46208401
>>46208487
Thanks anons. I was thinning the paints but i guess not enough
With the light green i was trying to do edge highlights but it didn't work out, maybe i should not do that for now
what kind of paint thinner (other than water) should I get?
>>46208165
My $.02
Thin your paints. Buy a bottle of vallejo game air - thats pretty close to the consistency you want to aim for.
GW metallics arent great for beginners. P3 metallics are easier to work with. Thats what I use, and I've been doing this for almost 15 years now.
Read tutorials, watch videos, and make sure you understand the various aspects or processes involved with painting and modeling.
At the beginning, find a tutorial you like. Try to emulate it as close as you can. This will help you learn the different techniques.
Dont let yourself get discouraged. We all go through the learning stages.
>>46208678
liquitex flow aid
>>46206915
Bumping for help
>>46207875
Brother!
>>46208678
>>46209137
https://www.reapermini.com/TheCraft/15
Why can't I hold all these Nurglings...?
>>46208853
Thanks anon
>>46208620
>maybe i should not do that for now
Only way to improve is with practice. Keep doing what you did and you'll get better at it.
I can guarantee if you put the next to marines next to the one you painted here you'll see definite improvements, if you listen to the advice given.
So I was a retard and tab-pinned my miniatures to bases with green stuff AND superglue. Is there a way to separate them without damaging the minis (ideally the bases also)? Minis are metal, bases are epoxy.
>>46208620
I've done salamander before and trust me the green that the salamanders use is a pain in the ass to get right. Best thing I can say that will help is to keep as little paint as possible on your brush. Seriously any excess paint on the brush is going to fuck you with that green.
>>46209666
Acetone is gonna soften the superglue.
Might melt the bases though. Definitely not gonna help if the GS is enough to keep the tabs in the bases.
Safest best to safe the minis would be to break the base in half. If you manage to do that cleanly it might be fixable.
Best shot at saving both might be using a saw to cut the tabs off the feet. That only works if the bases allow you to do that. And you'll have to insert pins manually into the feet the next time you want to put the minis down.
Good luck.
Does anyone know of any good bits stores that carry stormcast bits? I'm looking for some prosecutors legs for my sanguinary guard.
>>46208678
The cheapest acrylic one you can find. I use Vallejo since it's basically the same cost as regular paint but the bottle is small. I'm sure larger bottles can be bought for cheaper. Anything that says acrylic thinner or acrylic medium or thinner medium will do. Flow aids are redundant for brushwork but work just fine, and if you find paint drying too fast use paint retardants or mix them in with the thinner/water.
Took 6 months and 3 passive-aggressive emails to get this damn thing. Then another month to get around to assembling in an afternoon.
Lasercutcard's chaos defense line. Made out of mdf board, held with superglue, and ya know what? I like it.
>>46207875
And more
>>46210790
how much it was?
>>46210872
12/10 would purge
>>46210872
I would waagh with ya
>>46210935
with shipping about $25
I'm not sure how much I would recommend ordering one, though. Like I said, six months to get it because after two I get an empty envelope in the mail, then the guy forgets to send the replacement, than he finally sends one after I left a shit review cause, well, I didn't get what I paid for. And even that took two months.
finished off this guy, was a nice break from my malifaux but I don't really want to paint any more infinity anytime soon.
>>46211220
I like it.
>>46211175
I can understand some delay, shit happens and all, but sending an empty envelope and then sounds like ignoring the requests for product to actually be shipped all sounds like utter crap.
I just mounted a few days ago my skitariis unager dunecrawler with neutron cannon, but now i want to magnetize them for anti-air option.
The problem is: how do i remove the weapon without breaking everything? I used GWs thick glue. is there anything that can melt the glue or help me de-assebling it?
>>46211873
if it's plastic glue you're out of luck as it literally melts the plastic together, it it's super glue you can pop it in the freezer and this will weaken the bonds.
Also started work on this guy, lots to do
>Guy at my shop has this irrational hatred for teal
>Really tempted to copy that WarhammerTV Teal Sigmarines scheme but for my Space Marines
Would teal even look good on Space Marines though? That's the real question.
>>46212105
>Would teal even look good
yes, teal is love, teal is life
>>46212059
i guess im screwed then...ill just cut it off with a scalpel then so nothing breaks in a horrible fashion and then magnetize it properly.
Also, i already like the pants on your mini, where dat model is from?
>>46212143
Alright anon, I'm gonna trust you on this.
I'll paint the Battle Demi Company I'm buying at the end of the semester teal.
>>46210790
needs some rivets to really be complete, though
>>46212105
I reckon white with teal shoulder pads and helmet and gold details
>>46212190
it's not a marine, but I fucking love teal schemes
>>46212190
you could paint a test model first
>>46212272
>Not going balls deep on everything you do
What's the point of living anon if you do that, anon?!
>>46212248
That looks nice.
TEAL IT IS. FUCK YOU JOEY.
>>46212248
God damn, if I had the patience to repaint my Tau, I'd go teal.
>>46212200
I have plastic rods and will get on that, thank you.
>>46206232
please stop posting this. its shit, and uses 2 more paints than needed.
So.
Is the Chaos Black spray worth using? Or should I avoid it?
Noob from last thread
I watched a couple of videos on painting miniatures. Noticed that for some of them they used a lil thicker brushes and fine tip brushes, which look exactly like the ones i was using. I think other than me not being a good handpainter was that i had thinned my paints too much and applied alot. Their paints didnt look runny like mine when they applied it. Gonna try to make my paints milk like instead of watery
>>46213640
I have that one saved too, thread-name-anon, but people always request the Blood Angels one. Have another commonly requested image for your troubles.
>>46213949
I don't think there's anything really wrong with it, but the krylon paint+primer black is like a quarter of the cost and just as good if not better.
I want to comfort that beautiful Sister waifu and pray to Emperor together before cuddling
>>46214247
Oh, I'll have to look into that, thanks mate.
>mfw this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_oM5JMkwQI
>Painting Aegis Defence Line
>All basecoating, washing or drybrushing
Such a great break from actually having to think while painting.
>>46214082
Remember one thing that Duncan says that is very true:
You can thin your paints all you want, if you put too much paint on your brush and therefore on your model, it will look thick.
You can always add more paint by going back to your palette, provided the apint isn't dry, hence the use of a wet palette.
>>46214742
To be fair, that works with huge models with very straight lines. But good idea nonetheless.
>>46215034
I'm going to try it on my riptide and possibly Crisis suits.
>>46214987
What i for my paints is put em in a jar, thin em, wet my brush, dip it in wiping off any excess then do some minor strokes on a paper towel before i apply it on the model. Ill mess around with it.
>>46215871
Use a palette, senpai
>>46215974
I had one but cant find it, ill look around for it before i start any painting. And how fine should a fine tip brush be? I thought mine were fine enough but was wrong apparently
>>46214800
Showing one of the small sections. A quick and dirty job, but the ADL is painted except for the turret,
>>46216060
You can use basically anything as a palette- a plate, some plastic from a clam pack, a tile. You should be using a palette to thin your paint and for controlling how much is on your brush (but you still want to have your tissue paper)
Make sure you don't dip your brush into the paint past the ferrule (the collar around the bristles), this will splay your tip and ruin the brush.
As for how fine a tip... they should come to a tip? I use a number 2 for a lot of stuff and an 00 for fine stuff, but these sizes aren't totally uniform between manufacturers.
>>46216060
Needle sharp. Go buy a kolinsky.
Also a cake of brush soap is a good investment and will help maintain a sharp tip as well as keep brushes clean and revive some old brushes.
>>46216182
I have some tamiya #1-2 brushes. #2 is mostly used to prime parts since its larger. The #1 isnt fine enougj and the other brushes i have (dont remember the brand, picked up from ace) though i plan on buying more fine tip. Couldnt find my palette so ill just use scrap plaplate
>>46216356
The two fine tip i have are more of a toothpick sharp than a needle
>>46216411
Is it at least a very sharp toothpick?
>>46210136
I love Hobby Titan because they sell in bulk
>>46216539
I would say so, that would work if i thin correctly?
>>46216624
Yes.
Raven guard test model and also my first ever finished model.
I'm quite proud of how it ended up looking, especially the chipped paint on the knee and the green stuff sculpt on the shoulderpad.
The black is done using a black wash over gray undercoat, it looks quite nice in person.
I'd like to do some osl on the lenses to add more light to the face, then maybe add some pouches and I'll base him once I finish the rest of the squad.
Of course command and conquer (c&c) is appreciated.
>>46217856
Also, two battlebros in progress
>>46212248
Teal is pretty much the best color.
>>46212248
Brutal/10 would play against!
You could enhance your edging by adding yet another 2 edge highlights to the model, to even further the effect you have going. Focus this more and more towards the sharp edges and leave some of your already edged showing through.
The colors you chose are ace by the way.
![392450853_e7c4b45120_o[1].gif](https://i.imgur.com/tgbDeTF.gif "392450853_e7c4b45120_o[1].gif")
>>46211130
Holy shit that's almost an A-Gear from Space Cowboy/Ace Online.
I know this isn't /tg/ related but it is WIP seeing how I spent the last few hours painting these little bastards.
>>46218270
I think that Joey would argue against that >>46212366
>>46218484
I think this is one of those jobs enamel paints would have been better for, so they'd look like badges. Right now they just look really flat.
Hi i would like to get the same effect as pic related, i am going to use vallejo lemon yellow,but i have a problen with the shading part, flesh wash is oop and i can't get coat d'arms stuff. Would seraphim sepia work all right? Should i water down a colour? Does the fact that flesh wash was actually an ink change much?
>>46218609
They stopped making Reikland fleshshade?
>>46218614
Are you sure they are alike? I have been researching a bit and people say flesh wash wasn't really a flesh wash, but a yellow/brownish thing,that's why i prposed seraphim sepia.
>>46218609
I just realized i wasn't very clear, my question was for a shade for the yellow
Have you ever seen a shop display unpainted miniatures before?taken quickly to not look like I was confused by this
I'm thinking of ordering sentinel parts to kitbash with a dreadnought for a more believable mecha. I'm trying to figure out which pieces would be usable, weapons wise, for a believable conversion to dreadnought. It seems like all the weapons are "twin-linked" but would any of them not look out of place?
>>46218734
Sometimes they are for sale, some times they are WIP armies.
However, seeing the bits of paper with unreadable notes on them, I'm guessing they're for sale.
>>46218737
Tacking dread arms onto a sentinel or sentinel legs onto a dread isn't going to look good, mate. Nonetheless, you're too vague about what you're planning so it's hard to advise on the weapons question.
>>46218803
Well I'll have to disagree their, I think the legs look great on a dread, but I was wondering if something like the sentinel flamer or missile pod would look like to much different from normal, that someone might not play against it.
>>46218876
What about boxnought with contemptor legs?
>>46219191
unlikely to find a good price, or even available legs, without the rest of the contemptor coming along with it, though it would look very good, humanoid, which is what the SM are going for look wise.
>>46219208
>unlikely to find a good price
>mfw
I wonder what a contemptor torso on boxnought legs would look like.
>>46219238
Squatnought probably.
>>46219238
easily some of my best work
>>46219273
It's actually kinda cool.
>>46219245
>spudnought
FTFY
>>46219273
I think the contemptor torso is a bit larger, but something like that.
>>46217856
Looks like too much paint covering the details
>>46219245
I had an old metal dreadnought torso with terminator legs that I acquired from an old mate. Looked like absolute shiiiiit.
>>46219238
>mfw
You get what you pay for. You're not fooling anyone with your shilling. As more and more people figure out how to buy chinashit, more and more complaints about the quality dispel the "even better than the original!" bullshit.
>>46219348
>dreadnought with terminator legs
>looked like shit
What a twist.
>>46219382
You're not fooling anyone, GW.
>>46219208
The Calth plastic Contemptor is fairly cheap on ebay.
>>46218734
That's a cute pink phone anon but your hands make you looks like a crab.
Would teal look good with red (helmet, shoulder trims, backpack exhausts) and bone (shoulder pad inset) details on a Space Marine?
>>46219978
I love it. Great job anon.
>>46219740
The red and teal might look good together, depends on the exact colours. The bone is going to look weird, go with either white or black.
>>46219740
Head over to the b&c and use the painter.
Or paint a tester.
Or use a bunch of color pencils and some paper to visualize the idea if you're not sure.
Or use phothoshop to do a quick mockup.
Teal and red is a sound combination in terms of color theory. A scheme is as much about placement and ratio as it is about the colors themselves though. Personally I'm not a huge fan of painting only parts of the backpack different colors, but that's just me.
The idea sounds decent enough though.
Picked up this box for £45 just cause I love skellies, but never painted any before.
Trying to decide between square or round bases (comes with round). Probably won't play any games of AoS/WFB with them so it's mostly aesthetics, but skellies look so great ranked up. Round bases look better on individual models. Need consistency. Wat do /tg/?
>>46220481
>>46220483
What do you guys think?
>>46220568
If you want aesthetics you should go for round bases.
>>46220588
Out of those three, scheme 1 is probably the best. You could do with a bit more red lower down though, like on one of the kneepads. Should balance things out a bit.
>>46220588
The scheme would be a lot stronger if you get rid of the red exhausts or make the entire backpack red imo.
Generally speaking I think the best schemes on Marines are clearly structured in blocks of color.
So I'd use the middle one and change the backpack to all teal or all red.
The black is a bit boring.
edge highlights, drybrush or sponge for highlighting ork vehicles?
I have a mini with a bunch of potions on it's belt.
How should I approach painting them so they look like vials of glass with liquid, rather than just looking like Christmas baubles?
>>46220616
Depends on the style you are going for.
Post picks of your stuff. Or tell us how you want to paint them.
A pretty good way to paint ork vehicles is to prime with a rust color, drybrush everything metal and then paint armor plates etc in the colors you want leaving the edges unpainted giving you a chipped look.
Edge highlights have to be super clean and consistent on an entire vehicle to look good. Also work better if you are going for a fully painted in clan colors look.
>>46212105
Consider that sigmarines are one step away from blood Angels
>>46220641
The 'level' of the liquid should be parallel to the base, unless you are taking movement into consideration . Start with your main colour and draw the parallel line. Colour beneath, there's your liquid. Add a bit of white and add that to the 'level line' as a highlight, and maybe a few (tiny, tiny, tiny!) dots as bubbles. Be prepared to fiddle with it for a while, and I know mine isnt good lol, it's WIP.
>>46220641
You need to paint the fluid into the vial and then add another layer where you paint highlight reflected from the glass on top.
Also helps if you paint the fluid trying to give it some depth. Think of how a glass of red wine look in backlight.
Looking at reference pictures is a good idea in general I guess.
>>46220698
In fact this is an even older photo and the liquid is barely started and I was testing colours, dont hurt me
>>46220662
that's how they look atm. I've posted them before in this thread, but they've been washed with agrax.
I kinda like their dirty look so I proably won't re-apply basecoats on red blue and yellow panels. So I'm just wondering which way would benefit them most and keep that orky mesy look.
>>46220788
Sponge weathering would work well here.
Not sure what you mean by sponge highlights though.
>>46206904
Those are real fuckin' nice dude, what's this about a chu chu train?
>>46206954
Do you have white primer? It can make your models look a little rough if you don't basecoat all areas (no black in recesses you can't reach) but you could zenithal prime (black primer on entire model, spray white dusting from top).
Anyway, from there just go on the You Tubes and look for Dr Faust's cool white or warm white tutorials. If you use a cool white (blue based white) you should be able to hit both sides of the trousers at once when basecoating with a pale blue or whatever.
>>46207346
If those guys are Tallarn, they are based on the British Desert Rats of WW2 so you could have a look into that for inspiration (not all that many pics of them all wrapped up like that though). But that could be an idea, have a leader with his face visible and a badass grizzled beard or some shit. Sandy ass beard. Pic related. Those look like Haradrim models, I had some of those.
>>46211220
Awesome. I have the icestorm Pano to paint up but i'm just too lazy
>>46218609
Please? Here is a pic of flesh wash over white if it helps
>>46221179
Are you stating tallarns are based on brits in the desert or did i misunderstand?
>>46221341
Good ol' fake tan colored flesh wash. It should do the trick.
why did st duncan stop making videos? did he abandon us? :(
>>46208165
pretty decent for a first try! keep on working and you'll get better!
in addition to the aforementioned advice, I'd suggest you paint metallic colours over a black layer. A bit of black shining through is less distracting than the green on your marine...
>>46219336
Yeah, fucked up there, especially the helmet,I tried like 3 or 4different ways of doing it, so parts of it are quite chunky.
Now that I have the scheme figured out I'm trying to be much more careful with this stuff.
>>46211130
Why would a Snakebite drive a tank? Now you need to make it boar powered....
Do I have to thin washes?
>>46222793
If you want to. Depends what kind of effect you're trying to create.
>>46220788
I see moldy lines
Got in the last thread too late. WIP, hows the skin tone?
>>46222953
Face is really good. The rest... maybe a bit harsh?
I bought a Mekboy Gargant last week. I was going to name him "Stompy McStompyface"... but I just won a pair of Great Gargants on E-bay.... so I have stompier things.
I am also now... skint.
>>46222953
As I said last thread, the tone works ok, but it looks really, really dry and chalky.
Super thinned gloss varnish might help but idk.
>>46213640
those whitescars look pretty garbage imo
>>46207346
Dunno if you're still here anon, but maybe a striped or more vibrant tie around the head? Not sure what its called, the saudi looking thing tied around the headscarf, on the forehead
>>46206230
thanks bad dragon
>>46224415
Looks more 'Primal Hardware' to me (They do tentacles with orifices. Don't ask).
>>46223540
Ive got one layer of water downed gloss on it and its already looking better
>>46224415
No matter how many pictures of it I take, it keeps looking phallic.
>>46224615
>Implying phallic is always a bad thing
Dude, it is a burrowing creature. If it didnt look penisy, youd have a slew of anons questioning why a subterranean worm has spikes and antennae that would get injured underground
tl;dr: looks great, keep up the good work anon
>>46224840
Thanks anon.
At least it doesn't look like a black rubber dildo anymore.
Ideas on colours for the splinter pistol? Counts-as needle pistol for Necromunda.
30th anniversary coming up, decided it would be a fun time to make my own chapter and start my second army - with mustaches.
>>46225116
Purple.
>>46225155
Dig the concept. Maybe add some scottish check?
>>46225155
SMASHING
What kind of head should I give my pesos xenos inquisitor? His body is based on the Tempestus Scion leader with the coat.
I'm thinking either a fancy schmancy WHFB empire head with a big fancy hat, a stormcast eternal head for that mysterious masked look cyborg look
>>46225608
i wanna go more full on british, over the top
>>46225699
exactly - this is more like it. Over the top british desert rats kinda thing i'm thinking.
>>46209262
I feel I've seen this in person.
>>46219382
>he doesnt order from the most based chinaman
heheuheuheuehueheuheuheue
>>46225735
if you do that, make sure to complain about colonials and drink hendricks before/during the game
>>46225984
I'm absolutely going to do that.
Saw a bunch of Chaos spiky bits on ebay. It was £3 last time I looked and it's now £12.50 plus postage. Not paying that.
Does anyone have an idea of FW's release schedule? I'm getting thirsty for 40k Blood Angels.
>>46226217
30k i mean, lmao whoops
My fifth finished mini. Really happy how it came out. Wanted to make a lapis lazuli mask with the golden 'veins' but every time it came out wrong so after a couple of attempts i went for mono blue. Any tips on how to make the golden parts on such a small area? Anything i should change?
>>46226251
>your fifth
real quick, go fuck yourself
stop being so good at painting so fast
i might blend the highlights on the cloak a little more, and the shoulder and neck armour is a little bit sloppy, but damn good
>>46225608
>scottish
Those are clearly Turks. Give them oily skin. Maybe a bit of a tan. Isn't one of the gene-seeds producing some protective skin oil? Maybe they got a faulty one that gives them a permanent gloss?
>>46226606
>Mucranoid
>Phase 16: This implant allows a Space Marine to sweat a substance that coats the skin and offers resistance to extreme heat and cold and can even provide some protection for the marine in a vacuum. This can only be activated by outside treatment, and is common when Space Marines are expected to be fighting in vacuum.
Behold! My work in progress Gorkanaut conversion, or as I like to call him, DA CHOMPA!
>>46227373
Is it gonna have two faces?
>>46227373
That jaw best be hinged
>>46227373
noice
>>46225155
You best be giving the dreadnought a mustache
>>46227577
Yes.
Picture related was the initial inspiration.
>>46227606
It ain't. Doing that would have been too much work.
>>46227607
Thanks m8.
>>46227713
Magnets?
>>46212248
Damn that awesome. Would you mind telling how you paint the teal? Want to paint some teal deldar
>>46227373
>>46227373
>paint yellow
>call him pak boy
waaaghka waaaghka waaagka!
reposting my hetzer
>>46220588
you motherfucker
scheme 2 was what i wanted to do
we must now fight to the death
>>46227713
TENGAH TOPPAH GORKAH MORKAH
30k Dark Angels.......can't wait till my actual shoulder pads arrive instead of the 40k placeholders I am using.
>>46228856
Looks neat anon. Hard to tell from the picture, is that faded whitewash over 1945 green?
How do you compromise for Tabletop Standard, WIP? I struggle to come to a decent point in between spending many, many hours on a miniature and not fielding an army that's 90% unpainted.
>>46229909
I don't.
Can't say that I have ever played with unpainted models either, because I paint pretty much everything, even common dirtstompers, in sub assemblies.
>>46229991
So how long do you take per miniature?
I painted one guy I was really happy with the other week, but just on painting he took 6 hours.
>>46229909
I don't. I play Iron Warriors and do almost the whole army with drybrushing and ink washing.
>>46229529
If you're using BaC plastics, the resin Mk IV shoulders are different sized from the BaC ones. You have to sand them a little bit so they look right.
Why do no chapters use earthy tones or pastels?
>>46227373
And it is assembled (for the most part.)
>>46230486
Because that's the Tau's color scheme.
Finished painting last night, need to clean up the white parts alot. I read a guide on painting, (prep bright colors with white, darker with black) and added a few more color details on the knees and bolters. Looks a lil better imo
Fucking rivets. I understand the barest pain ork conversion nuts have.
>>46230889
>need to clean up the white parts alot
A-are there any white parts?
>>46230133
Shoot for a base color, a shade, and a highlight. Do them in squad batches to keep from spending 6+ hours on a single mini
>>46230133
Don't try to aim for 30 minutes to 2 hours per figure. The people who do it that fast either paint like shit or are painters of the gods who have been doing it for years and win golden daemons.
One or two guys a day is a good speed if you're painting well and happy with the job. A lot of people are super slow and take years to do a few squads. If real life went perfectly and all you did was paint I'm sure 4-6 hours for a guy would be a good speed. That'd be more than enough time to do one or two squads/units a month which is a good time frame to shoot for.
>>46231129
Aw yeah, I'm glad you took the advice. Looks sweet.
are those for heretic guardsmen, or marines?
>>46231324
Both, actually. I have a haos army and a renegades army. I plan to use it and another junk-style defense line in bigger games.
Gotta put 200 infantry behind them walls, anon.
Everything is chrome in the future
>>46231129
I would kill for someone to just sell bags of pre-cut rivets
>>46231655
Someone's looking to be witnessed.
Any place selling some ridged stuff to make cabling for some MkV leg conversions? Tried some round cabling, but it doesn't work the same as a flat cable would.
Paint all the sorcerers!
My Thousand Sons paint factory continues. The two terminators at the front are to be count as Obliterators.
>>46227801
prime black, base coat incubi darkness (I used one of the spray cans, I don't know if they still sell them) gradually added P3 Meredius blue to the mix, added a little bit of white to that for highlights
>>46231401
the real question is are you going to add in chaos basions and wall of martyrs-style fortifications
escape hatches for days
>>46231945
I might in the future, yeah. for now... My backlog is way too massive.
Hell, this defense line is gonna just be steel and rust with blood and mud. Boring, but it's a defense line.
adding to my kitbashed fire dragons. Hope these ones turn out better.
To fill in and smooth out the crest of the helmet, would liquid greenstuff work, or should I get real greenstuff?
>>46230889
>Finished painting last night, need to clean up the white parts alot. I read a guide on painting, (prep bright colors with white, darker with black) and added a few more color details on the knees and bolters. Looks a lil better imo
Maybe I missed the posts where you got started, anon, but you've got a lot of work ahead of you - and this coming from a guy who's not really all that good himself.
I see that these are cookie-cutter marines, so it's good to learn on them, but can I ask what paints and brushes you are using? Your paints are *way* to thick and globby, making me think there's either a problem with the paint (and how you're thinning it), the brushes (or how you're using them), or both.
>>46231680
People sell sheets of pre-cut rivets.
http://www.micromark.com/ho-scale-decals-with-raised-3d-rivets-and-other-surface-details,9968.html
>>46232300
Hector looks chalky as fuck.
>>46232348
Not quite what im looking for. Too small for ork conversions
>>46232352
>Hector looks chalky as fuck.
Doesn't he, though. I actually started painting him *years* ago - that's a 3rd Edition Veteran Sergeant - and didn't bother to go back and strip the old paint job, as I needed the time to paint up the rest of his squad in time for Armies on Parade.
>>46232393
>Hector not even looking at the enemy
>Johnny being told to kill the rest of his squad for being heretics
>Guy on the far left staring off into space
>Guy on the far right looking at something unimportant
>>46231136
The helmets are supposed to be white
>>46232300
The photo quality is way bad, they dont look that blotchy irl, but the paints is liquitex acrylics, humbrol acrylic gunmetal and then this gloss acrylic black. The brushes are a tamiya #2 for base coat black and then idk the brand name but im using a toothpick fine tip brush for the rest. This is how my first attempt looked
Anyone got pics of well done scratch built stuff? Or how to's? I'm considering scratch building mech legs but I'd like some reference material. It's hard to find good scratch builds online
>>46231680
Get some plasticard and a Leather Punch, just like a pair of pliers but will let you make rivets.
>>46218522
The clear coat will help a bit with that adding some glossyness. But even then the original badges were the only ones that were 3d, and even then it's been retconned and all badges are flat and metal.
>>46231655
Any plans on adding more dakka?
>>46232606
>Any plans on adding more dakka?
Its got 4 big shootas int he front and a killkannon in back. Its as much dakka as a battlewagon can take
I want to convert picture related into something akin to a Floater from Xcom. Any tips from what set I could get good jetpacks parts that would be suitably industrial in appearance?
>>46232665
I had noticed the cannon, but didn't spot the shootas.
>>46226606
Homeworld will be a desert, so i like the idea of a tan actually
>>46232690
A picture of a floater for reference.
I basically want to remove the treads, and ad a bunch of rockets and a jetpack onto the torso.
I just need to know from where I can find suitable bits.
>>46232534
Anon, you're hurting my eyes. You keep doing this. Being a novice painter is fine; keep at it and you will get better. Continuing to post blurry, useless images is pathetic.
Rest the camera on something so you're not holding it in your shaky hands. Turn on macro mode. Use the timer function so the camera is perfectly still when it goes off. These are easy things to do. DO THEM.
>>46227679
If I can source another head without a helmet I would do it, [s]I might even do it on a skull[/s] I would absolutely do it on a skull.
>>46232748
I acknowledge my failed attempt at strikethrough text.
>>46232710
Don't forget a fez or two.
>>46232820
Hell yeah anon, now we're talkin! Gonna look for some 28mm fez's.
>>46232735
My camera cant do any of that. If it could then i wouldnt be posting bad pics. Sorry bout that.
>>46232854
http://meridianminiatures.com/eastern-heads-b
>>46232934
What kind of camera do you have? Cellphone?
>>46232975
Nice, i will build upon their presently feeble mustaches
Just watched a painting tutorial on painting plague zombies and they played Astro Zombies by the Misfits over the top of it.
Great respect.
>>46232934
Is it a camera from 1940? It has no timer? No macro mode? It can't be set on the fucking ground?
No, anon. It takes digital photos. It can do all those things. You don't know how to use your camera, because you're a moron, and you're too lazy to figure it out. Spend 5 minutes and learn to use your camera before you post another one of your useless blurry ugly images.
>>46232133
kinda junky job I did before, and am trying to improve on with the new ones.
>>46206915
Use cork. It looks like stone without looking like you sifted through your garden for stone. Bud of mine used cork forba skullcannon base. Like an altar. Fantastic.
>>46206915
Vallejo (or GW) texture paint.
>>46233399
How do you glue a miniature on cork? Superglue? Will it be durable compared to gluing it onto plastic?
>>46233573
The cork will tear before the glue does. If it's thinner cork then you don't need to worry too much, otherwise you'll want to pin the model to the base through the cork.
>>46233618
thanks.
>>46206230
I've been watching the development of this and it gets more sextoy-y with each photo.
10/10, would camwhore with.
>>46211873
I have heard of using a kettle and boiling water to melt the fused plastic glue. Don't know if true or not.
>>46208447
...bread crumb golem?
![1[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/d7UYioo.jpg "1[1].jpg")
