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WIP - Painting and Converting General
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ORGANIZE YOUR WORK AREA EDITION

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
https://mega.co.nz/#F!OgpwzAKS!a5eVE6pOagTTOWEr5tEaEQ

>Painting Videos
https://mega.co.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

Link to previous thread >>43792906
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>>43829017
And yes, that is a Chestnut Wash at the top left of that rack. Trade me a 2000pts army and it's yours!
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>>43798998
>>43812214

Here are my other two WIP Daemon Princes of Tzeentch.

--LEFT--
User-name:
Reapermaul Timewinder
True name:
FOLANQ'PPPHAAHLIOEUZULTLDHOWCCQ'ABLBHILPHOWKWEG'GEREPH

--RIGHT--
User-name:
Warpeye Buboreum
True name:
GURHOASHN'DEIRG'NAN'NIRCHZI'IKSARFOLTHLQ'CHEN'NU'UDHAOLLKS'TLILZAOFLDEBH'DEBHDEDACHILERTH
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>>43829175
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The size of the right hand is really bothering me, why must bikers have such a huge hand compared to normal marines...
And I know, the lighting is bad
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>>43829411
It really doesn't look bad at all. Plus, Chaos ;)

Where is the left hand from?
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>>43829074
The old inks were just repackaged Windsor and Newton ones afaik.
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>>43829456
Wait, is it just a regular CSM gun hand with the fingers cut off and repositioned?
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>>43829466
So are the W&N in current production the same as the blue top Citadel washes?
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>>43829456
>It really doesn't look bad at all
Not from this angle.
>>43829476
You mean the one holding the grimoire? Yes it's a bolter arm that has been bent along with its fingers
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>>43829587
>You mean the one holding the grimoire? Yes it's a bolter arm that has been bent along with its fingers

Nice, I will be stealing that.
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>>43829493
Not sure about the blue cap ones, but the generation after that with the white caps are afaik.
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>>43829661
So, not the same as Chestnut Wash...
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So, I decided to do compare the marines in the artwork and the models, just to see how "exact" they are, and I found out that their heads are way too big, their legs way too short, and their chests too wide.
so I was wondering if there's somewhere where I can get parts with better proportios, or do I have to greenstuff all that?
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>>43829696
Same as chestnut ink though.
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>>43829710
Google truescale or artscale marines.
The BnC has loads of logs and tutorials showcasing all different kinds of methods for converting from using gs and plastic card, to cannibalizing plastic and/or resin terminators.
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>>43829710
><Insert meme here about realizing something everyone has known for over 20 years>

Also, it depends on the art work, doesn't it? Some are done closer to the model you shared here. And then there is that Black Templar one where the guy looks like he is wearing SoB armour.

It's called Heroic Scale.
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>>43829710

More like the artwork is too tall and gangly. The best truescale conversions are in-between, or are just slight thigh/shin extensions.
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>>43829782
He also used a pic with slight forced perspective. Just a complete fail.
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>>43829778
>It's called Heroic Scale.
No that's just GWs borked comic style because they make gaming pieces. Heroic scale is a term used to differentiate between truescale 25mm and 28mm and the stuff that has exaggerated proportions with bigger heads hands and weapons so you can tell apart what's what on the table.
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>>43829749
Alright, you literally just said you don't know. You literally just said that all you know is that the generation after the blue cap chestnut wash is the same as the (CURRENT? - you didn't really verify that) N&W inks.
How do you not know if the N&W inks are the same as the blue caps if you apparently know that they are the same as the white caps in the following generation? Are the blue and white cap generations exactly the same product? If yes, then why did you say you don't know? If no, then they are not the same are they? If you don't know, then you don't know.

So, either you have no idea what you are saying and are incapable of admitting when that happens, or you are just terrible at communicating.
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>>43829847
So, they are heroic scale. Good talk.
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>>43829889
>So, either you have no idea what you are saying and are incapable of admitting when that happens, or you are just terrible at communicating.
Dunno man. I said the old ink with white caps were the same as the newton and windsor ones. Pretty clear cut.
Was just trying to be helpful.
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>>43829800

Man the miniature marine would look so beefy and tank-like at that height.
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Working on my 1/35 t-80um
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>>43829017
That's a pretty good nerd cave you got there, Anon.
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>>43830085
Next one is a t-72b
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>>43829981
Thanks for trying to be helpful, but it just helps to be clear. I was talking about the blue chestnut WASH as shown in the picture above. The white cap is called Chestnut INK with the crappy twist tops (worst generation of citadel paints).

These distinctions that seem trivial are not when the way your paints, inks, washes, shades, glazes, etc work are important for consistency.

Just like the black top citadel "wash" series that have been replaced by the "shades" series is the same product used by Army Painter now. It's relevant though and actually not helpful to give the wrong information or not be clear about what you are trying to say. Can wash a lot of time and money and with so many terms being changed and thrown around it can get confusing if you just give half sentence responses.

Look at "glazes" and "washes" and "mediums." So many videos and blog posts out there that are just completely wrong about what they all are and you see the same wrong information get parroted here because of it.
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Starting a slaanesh/tzeentch army and did a quick Photoshop mock up on what I'm thinking for my paint scheme.

Thoughts?
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>>43829710
>So, I decided to do compare the marines in the artwork and the models, just to see how "exact" they are, and I found out that their heads are way too big, their legs way too short, and their chests too wide.

You think you have problems?
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So let me run an idea by you guys - I've got Lorgar here, but I want to paint him more in line with the current Word Bearer color scheme.

I'm thinking for all the inlaid parts on the armor I'd do a middle-range silver, with the higher plates the deep red, and the edging in brass. Gonna have to spend some time on the face too, to perfect that look of "I'm so done with this shit" he's got going on. Thoughts or suggestions? Normally I'd just try it out, but he's a bit expensive to just futz around with.
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2 HQs got a fresh coat of paint. I wish I could field buzzgob more often.
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>>43830745
I like it! But keep in mind, that's how a Daemonette would and should normally look with or without and touch of Tzeentch. The monochromatic blue/purple Daemonettes don't accurately represent the God Slaanesh or their Eldar origins at all.
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>>43830783
Okay, but two of those are bent over so....
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>>43830900

Skip the brass.
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>>43830745
>>43831367

And consider adding mutations if you want to merge them with the concept of change. Like, tentacle, extra heads and limbs, maybe Flamer or pink horror lower body swaps. Maybe even sculpt some flames on your Daemonettes.
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>>43831555
Hrm. I'll admit I'm not the biggest fan, but I don't want him too close to the other marines near him in terms of paintjob so that he'd blend in. Any other ideas on how to make him pop?
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>>43831614
*fan of the brass
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>>43831614

Make his etched runes glow. He will already stand out due to his size.

You can probably do his largest details like the shoulder trim and book in gold like this image. It's up to you, but too much gold is going to make him look like Magnus/Thousand Sons/Blood Angels.
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>>43831668
I wanted to do glowing effects for quite a bit, but if I'm honest I'm not sure how to pull it off. I get it conceptually, but never been able to get it to look right.

He's also not as big as I thought he'd be, and the inlaid details are super small. I'll see if I can figure it out though, I like that idea.
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>>43831773

Almost all his presence comes from the base. If you take him off his diorama he's just a large terminator. Especially the tinier guys like Angron and Lorgar.
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Long time listener, first time caller, here at least, I mostly frequent rpg threads.

Just bought some metal minis, and I have no idea what I'm doing. What do I need to get started?

They're 28 mm I think, metal. They came with shields separate, what do I use as an adhesive?

The store page said they didn't come with wire spears, but the pics showed them with bulky, nonwired ones, but they had no spears at all, just a shut fist where I assume I'm supposed to drill a hole somewhere to fit these spears I don't have. What do I drill with? Assuming.

What kind of paints? Do I need sealants, given that I'm guaranteed to botch this first attempt, or will that just make it harder to repaint later?

They didn't come with any circular bases, just tiny foot bottoms they don't balance on. Do I make bases somehow? Are there, like, blanks I can buy and then flock from there, or is what I think bases are in reality just something made in the flocking process?

Assume I'm a fucking idiot here, because I feel like a fucking idiot here.
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>>43829175
I am jello as fuck of your conversions. Totally rad.
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>>43831832
>Just bought some metal minis, and I have no idea what I'm doing. What do I need to get started?

A hobby knife or file to gently scrape away any mold lines you see (lines that run vertically along the model and cause an unsightly line across features like the side of the figure or the face or arm or weapon).

Primer, to spray on to the model and give a good surface to paint on, especially for metal which rubs off paint very easily.

>They're 28 mm I think, metal. They came with shields separate, what do I use as an adhesive?

Super glue.

>The store page said they didn't come with wire spears, but the pics showed them with bulky, nonwired ones, but they had no spears at all, just a shut fist where I assume I'm supposed to drill a hole somewhere to fit these spears I don't have. What do I drill with? Assuming.

Pin vise. Will also be useful for drilling other areas and inserting a small brass rod or paper clip and some glue to hold heavier parts together.

>What kind of paints? Do I need sealants, given that I'm guaranteed to botch this first attempt, or will that just make it harder to repaint later?

Acrylics, because they are thinner and easier to work with than enamel and lacquer. Get a matte varnish to seal the models, especially since metal scratches easily. You can also use satin or gloss if you don't like matte.

>They didn't come with any circular bases, just tiny foot bottoms they don't balance on. Do I make bases somehow? Are there, like, blanks I can buy and then flock from there, or is what I think bases are in reality just something made in the flocking process?

You can buy blank bases from miniatures companies or third party companies specializing in making bases that have details and terrain sculpted directly on them.
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>>43832059
>Pin vise. Will also be useful for drilling other areas and inserting a small brass rod or paper clip and some glue to hold heavier parts together.

When you get your small drill/pin vise, get one that has the handle on one end. As neat as it seems to have a collette at each end like mine, the novelty quickly wear of when the other end starts digging into the palm of your hand.

Gets old *really* quick.
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>>43831832
>Are there, like, blanks I can buy and then flock from there, or is what I think bases are in reality just something made in the flocking process?

Lots of companies sell bases. Some of the ladz at your local game store might even give you some of theirs if they have extras, although they might be used and require some work.

Flocking is the lazy man's way of basing your models, but there's honestly nothing wrong with that.
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Is there a good method for stripping paint from one of the new age sized models? In this case specifically a Gorkanaut. Also what is the name of the stripping stuff (if I remember right its Purple stuff or Green something)?
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>>43832691
>Also what is the name of the stripping stuff (if I remember right its Purple stuff or Green something)?

You can use Simple Green. I prefer to use non-acetone nail polish remover on plastic stuff.

Truth be told, I prefer not to buy painted plastic, but sometimes you just need that piece...
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>>43832691
purple power
or
green stuff

do yourself a favour a get a denture brush. trust me on this.

let it soak for a day or two. pull a piece out, but save the solution. scrub. use the second triangular brush head to get into the corners. put it back in the solution and wait another day or so and repeat if there are stubborn pieces of paint or primer.

I've done a lot of eldar and csm, but lucky for you orks can tolerate the look of old paint.
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>>43832798
>>43832811
Thanks guys I have stripped paint before but I goofed on this Morkanaut pretty badly (low quality 1/2 inch brushes do not do yellow basecoats well L O L)
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>>43832798
I prefer Simple Green. I tried nail polish remover and it just didn't have the same stripping ability.
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>>43829175
>>43831881

Here is a dry fitting/proof of concept for my Thousand Sons Obliterators. I'll be GSing robes and ribbons/scrolls and such.
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>>43827236
that was me, and damn someone beat me to it. I can't really afford $12 for a Johnny right now anyways, just spent a ton today.
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how do I git gud with greenstuff sculpting
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>>43831832
also what >>43832059 said
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>>43833944
If you want to sculpt stuff from scratch, twist a skeleton out of steel wire, build a base shape on top of it with either greenstuff or milliput, or other putty (pretty much use the cheapest stuff for this), then start working on surface layers with putty of your choice.

Clay shapers are super useful to have, work in small parts.
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>>43833944
>>43834303
A cheaper alternative is "Plastic Clay"

I like Sculpty brand myself.

It'll stay wet and workable until you toss it in the oven to cure and it doesn't shrink. Very good if you want to sculpt something.

Honestly for getting good with greenstuff I recommend working on my traditional sculpting and taking that experience into greenstuff.
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>>43833944
I assume pic related isn't yours. Because that's some of the best power armour sculpting I've seen.
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>>43834625
I personally dislike heat cured clays, but to each their own.
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>>43834747
it's not mine, it's an example of the kind of stuff I want to achive.
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Newfag back! Just got back from an incident to see all this helpful jazz, thanks for the advice guys. I see a lot of people drying their minis sideways stuck to stuff, any reason for that? Also, if flocking is the lazy way, what's the better base building method? I know I'll be awful at first but I'd rather learn to do things the right way.
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>>43835186
Oh okay then. Well green stuff sculpting is hard work. Like other people have said, get yourself some sculpting tools from eBay. You can get a set for under $10/£5.

Start with something simple which you can easily hide mistakes with, like a tabard. In fact any sort of cloth is good to start with, there are lots of tutorials on the internet for them.

If you're in to nurgle that's another good starting point because you literally can't go wrong. Its impossible to mess up rot and decay.

Just keep practicing, keep your material wet, keep your hands/tools wet too.
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>>43833712
I like this guy better than the other one with the book. I think I may give that guy the old Kai gun instead of staff to channel his obliterator magics.

I am not sure if I should give them robes or just cover then in impurity seals of ruinous magics.
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So I bought this recast Deimos Predator and it's not a very good recast. There's ridges of resin, and the hatches look like shit. So I know to file down the ridges, but how do I fix the shitty looking hatches? I've never used greenstuff before and I assume that's the option.
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>>43835620
Also got a recast contemptor dread that I wasn't sure I wanted, but it was $10. I assume I can't sell it on ebay? I don't do 30k at all.
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>>43835511
it's easier to manipulate the miniature if you have a handle for it, and you don't get skin oils or risk rubbing the paint off, or sticking a finger into drying paint.

As for bases I'd recommend getting some textured modelling pastes (vallejo, liquitex), some bark, cork and moss and mix and match those.
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>>43835640
I wouldn't sell it on Ebay unless you want a shitty piece of feedback who misread your listing and is seven shades of hindpained over getting a recast. Best bet is sell it locally, or toss it in as an afterthought to someone on Bartertown. They dont allow recasts there, but what they dont know wont hurt them.
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>>43835640
do not be an asshole and resell recasts on ebay
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>>43831555
god, that is such shit-painting, which is sad considering how good the rest of the model is.
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>>43829710
GW will only upgrade marines to truescale after AOS is a success and just as popular as 40k and that will take a long long time maybe never.. they have taken small steps to upgrade marine proportions thou for example since the switch to 32mm they are making the legs longer and wider apart. it would be nice to see them make them taller but I think its some thing forge world will experiment with before GW do. and they will only experiment with that when there is a lull in production IE after horus Heresy stops being so popular which could be like 5 years. in the mean time if you MUST have true scale marines I think the Gul Vorback mutated marines in the world bearers line are technically modeled truescale. modeling it your self truescale is hard and honestly ive decided im just going ot wait until they update the standard marine sculpt.. they will update the imperial guard sculpt to true scale next year and I assume if that goes well years later they might do marines as well.. the problem thou is because so many people are invested in marines its a big risk to upset the playerbase but basically GW is smart and know making people rebuy every thing they have is some thing they have been doing for years.. think of marines now and compare them to the early 90s ones.. I think it will happen its just a really really long term thing...

but it might never happen because they are "iconic" but as video games and stuff get better and feature more realistic art of marines I think they will slowly change even if that upsets legions of fans for having "old shit" that's just how modeling works.

we have had this scale of marine since they started doing plastic in 90s so its been a long time.. Battle of Clath and Blood angels have scaled up the legs.. the rest will follow it wil ljust be a very very very slow evolution. if I did it now I just wouldn't use heads use real human heads and use a smaller than scale sholder pad and then just use calth legs and smaller backpack
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>>43836331
true scale I think is not making them that much taller maybe a bit around the waste but not much at all I think its about shrinking the "heroic" scale elements which are the sholderpads and heads and backpack. if you keep the rest the same and use the larger legs in clath I think you have a truescale marine. Making them as big as sigmarines is stupid if you read up on all the sources of scale there is actually a range of scale in 40k that's quite large some marines are 7foot some are 8 some are 9 some are 12... if you consider all the models GW has made recently I think they are edging to the lower scale of marines so I think lots of the truescale marine projects people do are building statues and not true scale. simple changes like I said.. new sholderpads that are smaller .. husing a human or imperial guard head with out a helmet and using a shrunken or custom backpack that looks smaller or is chapter specific and then the longer clath legs will make them look truescale I think.. the diference then would be the same between a cadian and a kreig guardsmen and I think that's what you should aim for.. the projects where people make emperor titains the hight of a roof because they read some thing in a book is dumb.. if a emperor titian was made as a model by FW they would make it about as big as 2 realm of battle tiles. not bigger than that.. and actually smaller than that footprint but maybe reaching thosu extreams on its "roof deck"..

people who say every thing in 40k is out of scale are crazy and just don't get how shit can fit in rhinos.. it is all to scale and if any thing they are making the scale more cannon than less.. every thing does fit the only thing that's over the top now is old scults and yer unfortunately marines.. but one can argue tha tmarine sholderpads and heads are big because its to look "funky" but I still hope it changes one day... in the meantime im going to build sigmarines instead because I don't want to build and get outdated
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>>43836365
if I was you and if you REALLY want to make truescale marines id say make chaos space marines because it lets you mod them more with out it looking shit.

true scale marines are hard to build and its a great way to waste a fuckload of time and ruin yoru minis but doing it on chaos looks right. id start with getting FW gul vorback and FW noise marines and then start converting some marines with Glotkin release bits and using battle of clath or bloodangels assult marines wider legs. I do really want to start a marine project but when they took the statue down outside their office and replaced it with sigmarine it basically made me think they are now considered "cute" and GW might infact update them if they get desperate. marines are a huge huge huge huge part of the hobby thou. remember that your marine army needs to be uniform and all match and remember its a collection you will keep for ages.. think about that before you decide to do truescale or not.

honestly before you start any mini or converting project you should decide at what point will the project be finished.. if you feel like your marine collection will never be finished then I don't recommend doing truescale at all. like it or not but CSM collections are ALWAYS smaller than Marine or Legion collections . CSM just uses less marines and honestly is almost becoming a renegade or Chaos Imperium force rather than Chaos marine force if you understand me. I think its a good direction. and id expect the next Astra militarum book to have reference or maybe even rules for Chaos Renegades in it.. and in some way work in junction with the next CSM release. I think the way GW fixes CSM is admit that in 40k their story needs to progress and they cant just keep coming out of the warp forever. I think they should just do a "chaos" codex and have it have Dark Mechanium Chaos Renegades Chaos Marines Cultists Monsters etc... but no demons. save that for the Kin books. a "Fallen Imperium"
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>>43836481
I think yer literally they should make CSM no longer have marine in it now and juts be like "Chaos". you could add so much more interesting stuff to the codex and it would be good reason to merge some of the older uglier sculpts and combie some units and make space for new ones. I know GW doesn't do these kind of special army codex any more but I really think the way to fix CSM is admit that CSM never fight alone. and while Allies can fix this I think having fallen Guardsmen and mechanium and civilians and maybe even chaos orks and chaos xenos and stuff in one codex is how you bring life back to CSM right now CSM codex and the lists you run from it feel like a weird mix of demons and space marines it just doesn't have a good feel any more i seriously think most chaos players that have started armys in the last 3 years have started Guard not CSM. and GW need to address that. Chaos Space Marines still exist but they should be seen as one example of a fallen imperium and the book should be full of loads of other stuff too.. hell you could even add Hrud and let them make their triumphant return to 40k via working for chaos as spies and hidden snipers/tiefs this kind of creative "narrative codex" is what CSM need to give it life again its the deadest codex and army in the entire lot. i hope they work out how to fix it.. plastic Scarican is not enough they need to revamp the entire flavor ... apparently the Astra Mil codex will be like that.. i hope the Chaos one is like that too. GW its time to get radical.
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>>43836518
basically like i think GW is going to do 3 demon kin books and then release CSM and that's when we will know if Slanesh is cut from 40k or not. or turned into rats. i have a strong strong strong feeling that Slanesh really is gone. it will still exist in Horus Heresy obviously because that's considered mature reading but it will leave 40k or take a new role just like in AOS slanesh is actually according to most fan theorys sleeping with Sigmar with out him knowing. The HOrned Rat is the new Chaos god guys. im sorry.. and i think they wont do a Rat Demon Kin book because now Slanessh is no longer demons they are mortals with deprived values. ... i really really really really really want to see Skaven in CSM armies i emailed FW about it the other day begging for a conversion kit to make use of all my rat men and i think they seriously are considering it.. especially when other systems like Kings of War and 9th age have experimented with riflemen skaven. ... Hrud have always been one of the more interesting Xenos and i think adding more Xenos with mutations to CSM is how you make it a more interesting army. i always thought of CSM as slightly |mercs" or rogue traders in a way sure they have armys but they hurd the forces of chaos infront of them they don't just run up and go toe to toe with a space marine like they did in the horus heresy.. they lost that fight and now they are turning the entire universe against the spacemarines and showing up and saying hey we are back and look the entire universe and all its horror is with us.

i hope they fix CSM :(
maybe i wont get Vraks and will get IA13 instead.. but im so nurvy about getting a codex right now with out realizing if that new policy of not updating dataslates is real or not. but i might just risk it on FW
>>
>>43836331
>>43836365
>>43836481
>>43836518
>>43836561
You really gave this a lot of though, huh?

Somehow I can't help but wonder if you had a hashbrownie or something.
>>
>>43830085
>>43830144

Looking good anon.

Running gear is a little light on mud on the first one, looks like you're using a tamiya weathering stick? Weathering powders are a good investment.
>>
>>43832811

>He stips his minis with green stuff

Teach me your tricks, wizard!
>>
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Finally got some stuff i've been working on for a while now pretty much finished - Terminator Librarian, Thunderfire Cannon & Techmarine Gunner (Gunner was a pain in the ass, so many fiddly bits...)
Just gotta do final tidy-up work now
>>
>>43836731
haha, good catch. Do you have any recommendations for anything better at doing stips to models other than Green Stuff?
>>
>>43831001
Looking good, thumb nail on the warboss' right hand needs painting though
>>
>>43833944
>be real good with greenstuff
>cannot use a knife to scrape off mouldline
>>
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Work on my EC jetbikes
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>>43837483
This guy says what were all thinking
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>>43837349
Dawn grill cleaner. It is supposed to be a re branding of dawn power dissolver. The best stuff I have ever used to strip paint, works in less than an hour for some stuff and I never had to wait more than a few hours at most. Never caused any damage to my models. Gotta keep the models in something you can cover up or else it'll dry up. But you could always just spray it on, wait a few and scrub then repeat if necessary.
>>
>>43837483
Surprised you didn't mention the helmet too. So what? It isn't painted, so it's not done.
>>
>>43837483
You'll notice the bolter is bluetacked onto the wrist.
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finished my iron warrior contemptor
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>>43837754
>>
>>43833944
Way too top heavy, looks like buzz lightyear
>>
Anyone have any suggestions for a good table lamp to use for painting? I'm finding my house is too dark, particularly now it's winter. I've tried googling but most suggestion threads are old and give out of date suggestions.
>>
>>43837787
Any lamp is fine. Just make sure you get the right kind of bulb. Colors look different under certain light.
>>
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Just a test for a color scheme, no need to mention mould lines or anything like that. Just looking for suggestions on boltgun color. I don't want to do blue, and I'd like to have it be gaudy like Rogue Trader was. But I'm drawing a blank.
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>>43832691
Just stripped down the paint of 6 XV15, a Hammerhead and 3 Crisis Suits with this bad boy.
I just had to let them soak for 12 hours, and when I rinced them with water, the paint detached by itself. I had no need to scrub, but since I want to make SURE all the paint was gone, I did anyway.
If you live in Europe (This seems to be a german product), get this one. The GREEN bottle, not the others.
I can't say why, but seeing the paint detaching from the mini was SO satisfying!
>>
>>43829710
Here's my favourite truescaling conversion guide http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?278139-My-DIY-Chapter-a-thread-on-quot-Classic-quot-true-scaling
>>
>>43837754
>>43837763
niccceeeee. love the corroded metal effect
>>
>>43837883
>I'd like to have it be gaudy like Rogue Trader was

Yellow, maybe?
>>
>>43838457
That tiger stripe gold finish they put to Desert Eagles? Can't get much gaudier than that.
>>
>>43838464
>Can't get much gaudier than that.

Oh, you have no idea
>>
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>>43838464
Holy fuck Anon, if you manage to do this to your bolters I'll love you forever
>>
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Playing around with trying to make my Plasma Scions less monopose. How does this look?

Wish I had a spare Cadian bald head from the CCS box, but the Catachan will have to do.
>>
>>43837648
yes, but to stips?
>>
>>43837787
5000k-5500k
about 500-800 lumens for a lamp, higher for ceiling lights in a studio
80% or higher CRI rating (colour retention index)

place a piece of cooking parchment paper over the lamp shade in order to diffuse the light (reduce any reflection). good for taking pictures in a cheap lightbox too. the parchment paper can withstand a lot of prolonged heat but the cfl lights you should be getting here are pretty low heat.

it really bothers me when people say, "make sure to get the correct light." thanks tips. useful info.
>>
Has anyone used the bottled Army Painter paints and can comment on them?

I'm using Dragon Red and that shit is horribly thin. I'm six layers on a tank and it's still a streaky mess.
>>
>>43829175
fuck yea love it
>>
>>43839152

They're thin but get pretty great results.
>>
>>43838695
Eeeeh, the head is a wee bit too big for the helmet. Other than that, the pose is great.
>>
>>43838695
Get yourself a better head.
>>
>>43839356
>>43839400
never heard of a clown car helmet, have you?
>>
>>43829175
>>43833712

>>43831881
>>43839160 Thanks!

Conceptualizing/dry fitting some of my "Sorcerer Thralls" (aka cultists). Essentially, my cultists are either humans with guns, humans with wands that count as guns, or Tzaangors (Tzeentch Beastmen) with auto and las pistols.

I try to have 2 cultists per Thousand Son. Their job is to keep the Thousand Sons armour nice and shiny, even mid battle. Especially mid battle. Polishing meat shields. Embrace the change the the enemies bullets bring to your physical body!

These are DV cultist bodies with numerous bits from whfb wizards and gor/ungor kits and probably some random ones here and there. These are just an example, but I have quite a few in the sticky tac phase like these guys.
>>
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>>43839739
And here is the old skool models I am using as the tzaangor champion (shaman) and the Sorcerer Thralls champion.

Lots more WIP for my Tzeentch/Thousand Sons coming shortly.
>>
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>>43835640
>Also got a recast contemptor dread that I wasn't sure I wanted, but it was $10. I assume I can't sell it on ebay? I don't do 30k at all.

Assemble it, paint it, and use it as a regular dreadnought. As long as you're a codex chapter, you inexplicably get twice as many Attacks in assault as Blood Angels, Dark Angels, and Space Wolves.

>>43835689
>Best bet is sell it locally, or toss it in as an afterthought to someone on Bartertown. They dont allow recasts there, but what they dont know wont hurt them.

A lot of the guys on Bartertown are bro-tier, and would jump at the chance to have nice Contemptor for cheap - even if it were a recast. Your pictures should advertise your merchandise.

>>43835731
>do not be an asshole and resell recasts on ebay

There aren't many things in this hobby that burn me up more than this. Making recasts and selling/trading/giving them to friends who *know* they're recasts is one thing. Trying to pass them off as the genuine article and expecting to get top dollar for them is shady as fuck.
>>
>>43839770
Tzaangor Flamer cultist
and
2 headed cultist
>>
>>43839785
Other side showing his claw arm.
>>
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>>43839842
Two heralds of Tz that I finished up. Fairly standard, but the one does have some artifacts stolen from a Farseer.
>>
>>43839853
Oh, and the head of the staff on the moon face guy.
>>
>>43839739
heh I really like the skull headed guy, what's going on under the scroll?
>>
>>43839869
My Thousand Sons also have a bodyguard of sorts made up of captured and "broken" Wolf Brothers. I used Khorne Berzerkers and loads of SW bits to make this ravenous horde.

As such, the Thousand Sons Sorcerers "utilize" Wolf Brother Sorcerers as mediums for which to summon daemons. Much better the risks of daemonic possession is channelled through entralled lap dogs and other captured Sorcerers enslaved by powerful magics.

This model uses the legs from a DV chaos space marine, Grey Knight hands (staff and severed daemonette head - replaced by a severed human head), the arms are from the old 1991 space marine arms, shoulder pads from Khorne Berzerkers, SW head and torso, old metal SW character backpack.
>>
>>43839977
Another shot of the Wolf Brother Summoner

>>43839739
Haha, that's actually the ungor archer arm that I will be using to fill out the missing forearm that was formally holding an autogun. His right arm is from the same ungor and is the hand releasing an arrow. Works perfect for casting small offensive missile attacks ;)

Basically all the raw spare parts are sticky tacked to their respective bases. I've got about 20 of these guys dry fitted atm.
>>
>>43839944
>>43840019
oops replied to myself....

>Haha, that's actually the ungor archer arm that I will be using to fill out the missing forearm that was formally holding an autogun. His right arm is from the same ungor and is the hand releasing an arrow. Works perfect for casting small offensive missile attacks ;)

Basically all the raw spare parts are sticky tacked to their respective bases. I've got about 20 of these guys dry fitted atm.
>>
>>43840036
And my second Summoner, made from an old CSM sorcerer model, the limited edition legion of the damned sgt centurius and the skeleton backback from DV. I am not sure if I will make him as a Wolf Brother, or another random legion. Might be a fun place to experiment.
>>
>>43840056
>>
>>43839782
Totally unrelated question. I'd like to apologize for it being not relevant to the thread.
What's the story behind this mini? I tried to search for it, but I couldn't find anything. Does it have an entry anywhere?
>>
>>43840069
And that's it for now
>>
>>43838695
they're still going to be monopose

What I've been doing has been taking other plasmaguns and slapping them on the grenade launcher arms.
>>
>>43840084
It's just on old RT beakie who reloads his bolter.
The pose is reminiscent of him listening to the magazine, like the guy in this one cartoon show does, who is also a meme 'kill them all' etc.
And there is also the fact that he looks like his helmet has a raised eyebrow.
So he's just a characterful sculpt some fa/tg/uys associated with a meme and made their own.

The model used to be called Brother Craig.
>>
>>43830900
I wouldnt use red on Lorgars armor, thats heresy on heresy. Or just historically incorrect unless Im mistaken.

As for getting it right, I would watch several turorials before doing anything.
>>
>>43837562
Wow those look great anon.
>>
>>43840056
oh yeah, and his left hand is from a Grey Knight, and the left arm is from the 1991 plastic arms for metal bodies.
>>
any suggestions for a red with good coverage that's one step brighter and less violet than mephiston?
>>
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>>43839782
>A lot of the guys on Bartertown are bro-tier, and would jump at the chance to have nice Contemptor for cheap - even if it were a recast. Your pictures should advertise your merchandise.
Oh for sure, the users are great folks. But I posted pic related for sale with a note that it was recast, and had a mod come down on me hard. I figure to avoid issues, he should mention having a Contemptor then explain through PMs what it is.
>>
>>43840580
Thats bullshit. Cracking down on recasts of current kits is understandable, because it theoretically takes money from the company. But BFG was fucking abandoned by GW. THey dont support it anymore. Recasts of BFG dont hurt GW in the slightest. Honestly recasting OOP stuff shouldnt even be illegal.
>>
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>>43840084
>Totally unrelated question. I'd like to apologize for it being not relevant to the thread.

Johnny is *always* relevant, anon.

>What's the story behind this mini? I tried to search for it, but I couldn't find anything. Does it have an entry anywhere?

The model is, as >>43840241 noted, referred to as "Brother Craig". An early Citadel advertisement (pic related) from before the Dark Age of Technology listed several Rogue Trader marines and named them after the cast members of the old Adam West Batman serial - in this case, Yvonne Craig, who played Batgirl.

When Citadel released their blue catalogue, which covered most of the Space Marines sculpted and released from 1988-1992, Brother Craig was noticeably absent, so he doesn't have a regular part number like all the other beekees from that era.

>>43840241
>It's just on old RT beakie who reloads his bolter.
>The pose is reminiscent of him listening to the magazine, like the guy in this one cartoon show does

...and before da uvva anon asks, >>43840241 is referring to "Johnny" from Ed, Edd, and Eddy (c.f. >>43827304), who walks around having one-sided conversations with a wooden plank that has a face drawn on it ... hence the name.
>>
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>>43840673
I agree, but laying out my case did no good. The mod locked my topic and gave me a rather demeaning lecture on recasts.

Still gonna buy the recasts if I can, of course, since as you said BFG is dead and gone according to GW. And I'll be damned if I toss out $100 for a battleship through Ebay when I can get one for $17.
>>
>>43840580
>>43840673
>>43840887
Since FW announced to do the Specialist Games again the situation might change.
The optimist in each one of us might say, 'Hey GW remembered that the Hobby is all about fun, peace, love and understanding.' The cynic in me says that once FW produces miniatures for those ranges and GW have precedent with their IP they can start to make a legal move to destroy all the smaller companies that cropped up after GW abandoned those games/that market.
>>
>>43838810
I don't know what that means, but fairy power spray is the same thing in europe. Not sure who has it over there though.
>>
>>43831001
>claw made with copper, that would bend at any kind of armor

that's triggers me a bit
>>
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>>43840887
>I agree, but laying out my case did no good. The mod locked my topic and gave me a rather demeaning lecture on recasts.

GW has a nasty habit of coming after people who appropriate their IP (Chapterhouse, anyone)? It would suck for Bartertown - a non-profit hangout for people to buy and sell miniatures (most of which - let's not kid ourselves - are GW) to get hit with some kind of legal action for openly trafficking in recasts.

The Apocalypse-class battleship was only ever cast in metal. Thus, the picture itself even gives away that it is a recast. Bartertown has to protect itself, even if that means a decent fellow like yerself who wants nothing more than to keep one of GW's better games alive needs to find a more... clandestine method of moving this model.

That's what private messages are for.
>>
>>43841116
I'm making fun of your spelling mistake making fun of my spelling mistake. try to keep up ;)
>>
>>43839152
the entire point of wasting money on those expensive model specific spray paints is that they give a finer thinner coat. they also require you to shake very well and often and are much more susceptible to the ill affects of weather conditions; namely humidity.

the finer particles are more likely to hit water molecules in the air the higher the humidity causing a powdery or chalky appearance and texture. try to use it in less than 30% humidity and do multiple short sweeping bursts of spray paint and yes, multiple layers either within half an hour of each other, or more than 4 hours apart. make sure to shake the can for a *full* 60 seconds or more, and often throughout base coating. gusts of wind are always a good time to shake it up.
>>
>>43841253
>assuming that its copper and not some sort of future alloy that is exceptionally strong
>not realizing that orks just have to believe copper is the strongest thing in the universe in large enough numbers and it will be
>>
>>43841718
I said bottles, not cans
>>
>>43841840
>paints and can

my bad, read that wrong
>>
>>43841374
Yeah, true. Bartertown disappearing is the last thing I want to happen, the place is great. And that's what I've ended up doing as of late - if I get a bite on a post, I throw out a hint like "hey, I've got this fancy resin battleship here, any interest?"

Thread related, I've got 30 metal Word Bearer shoulderpads here, that suspiciously match well with 30 marines from the HHBC box set. Whatever shall I do?
>>
>>43841636
Wasn't making fun of anything.
>>
>>43842218
you still don't even know what is going on here
>>
>>43842242
Not really. I'm just kinda in and out.
>>
>>43842287
if you are not this person >>43836731
then maybe it would help to understand that when you interject into other people's conversations, you should probably be aware of the context for which you are participating. Saves confusion.

What are you working on?
>>
>>43835640
>Selling illegal products on ebay
It's fucking 10$. Use the 40k rules for it, smash it into terrain or donate it to a friend, but don't bother selling it online...
>>
>>43842328
I was just throwing out something besides simple green as a paint stripper. Probably should have mentioned I wasn't the guy he responded to.
>>
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I've been stripping the paint of those dudes. I have 6 of them, but the thing is, I'm pretty new to the hobby, and I never painted metal minis. A friend of mine told me it was a nightmare.
Do you guys have any advices to help me not to butcher those?

Also, I'd like to put a melta on 2 of them, any advice on how I should proceed?
>>
>>43843032
You only need to varnish your minis after you have painted them and everything will be fine.
>>
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>>43840249
Yeah, it doesn't fit the Horus Heresy time period, but I wanted to paint him up somewhere in-between the end of the Heresy and before he went full Demon prince. Although my Heresy history is a bit wonky, so I dont know when exactly he went all warp-y.
>>
>>43843032

There's two things to keep in mind

>don't store them in hot places
>don't store them in very cold places

Basically they are 100 times easier to work with than plastic as long as you don't try to convert them, but the metal will expand and contract and chip your paint if you don't store them properly.

You'll also want to wash them with soapy water before you prime them to prevent fingerprint grease from keeping the primer afloat, but that's good practice with any kind of material, especially plastic after removing mold lines from everything.
>>
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Had a batch of space marine tacticals with a botched primer job that I can't be arsed to clean so I'm just testing out my airbrush with an imperial fist scheme. Still pretty new to painting and the base needs to be done but I'm relatively happy with how it turned out; there's a lot I'd improve such as the eyes and my airbrush shading but it was done pretty quickly so I wont worry myself too much.

Any tips on not making a arse of space marine eyes?
>>
>>43843682
Well then, if converting metal minis is difficult, I think I'll just take a XV25 and put a melta on them instead.
Will I get dirty looks if I make squads made of 2 XV15 and 1 XV25 with Melta, Dawn of War style?
I'll be mainly playing in a GW store, since I don't know any people in the hobby where I live.
>>
>>43843916
>Will I get dirty looks if I make squads made of 2 XV15 and 1 XV25 with Melta, Dawn of War style
no

also that way is honestly pretty cool, so I'd suggest it
>>
>>43843916

Nah, especially not if he's the squad leader. They are recognizable enough. Destroying OOP minis makes me feel bad either way.
>>
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Making missile launcher Mor Deythan
>>
>>43832798
>using acetone aka nail polish remover

Dude, acetone damages plastic. It's why they use acetone vapors to "smoothen" 3d prints, by melting the plastic.

You should be using either simple green/purple power/windex or 99% isopropyl alcohol for paint stripping.

Enough acetone exposure will melt down the details on your models.
>>
>>43838228
>http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?278139-My-DIY-Chapter-a-thread-on-quot-Classic-quot-true-scaling
Thats my favorite as well.
>>
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So 1 more driver and some gap fill putty and ready for prime.

I have no clue what to count the manreach as. Any idea? I got daemonkin and CSM, even the forge world traitor book. Opinions?
>>
>>43844461
he's not being obvious about it, but it's non-acetone nail polish remover he's used
>>
>>43843032
I just noticed I had a single XV15 leftie.
He'll probably be the only leftie in my entire army.
This triggers me so much
>>
>>43844461
>>43844507
I mean, beyond the fact the filename for his image, is nonacetone_results_johnny.
>>
>>43844495
Hmm. Maybe put some guns on the lift platform and count it as a Forgefiend?
I love what you've done though man, very original.
>>
>>43836670
Thanks!, Actually I'm using citadel since i used to paint 40k, the weathering colour is typhus corrosion
>>
>>43844495

I sincerely hope you're planning on fabricating those sitting guys some lunch pails and the lining thel up along an RSJ hanging from that crane.
>>
>>43844495
>>
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>>43844613
Sheeeeeet
>>
>>43844550
Base too small, I put it on a 50 cause it wouldn't fit a bike base. Thinking one of those gun platforms but afraid of "modeling for advantage"
>>
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>>43844591

An easy thing to do that I think really helps: tear off a little piece of foam (blister pack foam works great) and dip the torn edge in the darkest brown you have (I use vallejo's black-brown). Dab most of the paint off the foam and then lightly touch it along the corners and raised parts of the tank, maybe a few in flat open areas, to simulate random little flecks where paint has been worn off.

The panzer in this pic has it quite heavy, but it's the idea.
>>
>>43843652
>True sight googles
>>
>>43843810

Gem effect. Dark in the back, light in the front, white dot on top of the dark
>>
>>43839770
thrall wizards...mah fucking bruh.
>>
>>43844803
Just yesterday I was speaking about that with a friend, thanks for the tip
>>
>>43837787
I've got a 1100 lumen "daylight" lamp, it helped tremendously. Also 2 11W regular energy lamps as support.

>>43839739
All of these look interesting, nice work.
>>
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Repainting a squad of 20 sluggas in my new style. Bright green and highly visible. Dark outlines, high contrast.
>>
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>>43845991
Damnit phone.
>>
>>43845991
>in my new style
What did you old style look like?

Anyway these look good. A whole unit of those will look great.
>>
>>43846028
Olive green with a Declan mud wash, pretty basic and speed painty
>>
>>43846004
>the edge of the choppa is a lighter silver than the rest of it

I fucking love you, anon
>>
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>>43846004
Tiny checkers gosh.
>>
>>43844495
Juggernaut.
>>
I have been looking for good Black Friday deals on miniature store sites to take advantage of.
Looking for anything pretty much. Bit's minis, paints or other supplies.
You guys know about anything worth sharing?
>>
>>43847658
The War store is having a sale, although you're probably not gonna get much better than 25% off GW stuff. They have good prices on other items though.
Otherwise Miniature Market has good prices on everything but GW stuff.
>>
>>43829411
Could just use a hand that usually holds a chainsword or axe or a banner bearer or something like that. Just cut the handle of whatever else he held off and pin the staff on there.
>>
>>43843032
Use a spray primer on them 1st, easy to find at any craft/auto/hardware store, and avoid colors like white yellow and orange as main colors then it should be easy. Converting to melta weapons will not be easy. Better off buying the 3man plastic kit for that.>>43843032
>>
So question about sanding resin minis.

I know I should wear a respirator but should I also work somewhere special or can I just do it at my normal workspace and just hand-vac it up afterwards?

My normal workspace is my bedroom/Computer room
>>
>>43845976
>I've got a 1100 lumen "daylight" lamp, it helped tremendously. Also 2 11W regular energy lamps as support.

Despite their name, those are generally in the 6500k area. You want 5000k-5500k. I suppose you won't believe me until you see for yourself. You definitely don't want the most common 2700k bulbs.
>>
>>43848301
If you want to be ultra safe, do it outside. The respirator is really the most important thing though, as long as you have that you should be okay.
>>
>>43837787
5000K full spectrum led lamp with a high color rendering index
>>
>>43840853
...why isn't there a 1d4chan article again?
>>
>>43844495
maulerfiend. where are there legs from?
>>
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>>43848665
>why isn't there a 1d4chan article again?

I don't know. Maybe because nobody outside of /wip/ would care? Brother Craig is a pretty small piece of the 40K lore anyway.
>>
>>43844803
To make look even better you can use lighter than the paint you used on the model on lower parts of the battle damage to simulate flaking paint and making the damage look 3D
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>>43848860
and if you want to go further, line the upper part with black
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Some hilly terrain I'm working on
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Group so far.
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Jupiter mining corporation represent
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>>43849185
Overhead shot
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>>43849447
Paint looks really nice but the trees could use a little more foliage or perhaps if you're going for an autumn look you could put a bunch of leaf litter on the ground ? Might be too late in the project though.
>>
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It's been a couple of months since I last painted, I can't wait to finish moving to our new house, I'm craving to start painting again.
>>
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>>43829017
>>43830131
Thanks!
New work area complete and ready for action.
>>
>>43849464
Thanks!
I'm on the lookout for birch trees with flowers still on them for some plant litter, but I agree, it looks a little bare so far.
>>
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>>43848723
I got huge forklifts for maulerfiends, that's why more drivers than forklifts. Pic related.

They are from Victorian miniatures mostly, one is a sentinel pilot and one is from my buddies bit box, not sure where he got them from
>>
Somebody recommended some good 28mm gladiator minis a little while ago, can anybody help me out?
>>
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converted a new commander with magnets, and made some custom farsight pieces for him. Already had an old commander, so at least I can get double duty out of this expensive model.
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>>43850223
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>>43850233
I figure he puts his sword down SOMETIME, and he can probably just magnetize it to his suit,
>>
>>43850233

Thin your paints for gods sake
>>
>>43850251

no
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>>43829017
Hi folks, I'm currently making a Jaguar list for Corregidor (Infinity) but I hate the models.
I'm hoping to get some kinda splinter-cell looking helmet for them.

Anybody know any good donor models for NVGs? Or something really "operator" ?
>>
If I'm using using 54mm gladiators as my 28mm army's "avatars" of war would it be better to have the 28mm units be Roman legionnaires or gladiators as well?
>>
>>43849429
I love it!
Here are my Desert Nomads ft. Kasrkin
(Using them as a proxy Wildcat team until I actually get some damn wildcats. They've been lovingly repainted in a total of 30 minutes.)
Everything is currently a WIP. But they are playable (I guess)
>>
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>>43850597
Boop. Forgot the image. Still want to field some Jags. 5 panzerfaust link plz.
>>
>>43839785
looks good, but make sure that little aquilla is filed off.
>>
Are the k'daai fireborn minis shitty?

For some reason alot of people refer to their flames as looking more like fur than anything,
>>
>>43849447
>>43849185

Kawaii as fuck senpai, though the rocks could be a few shades darker to have a better contrast with the trees and the edge highlights.
>>
>>43849394
>>43849418
>>43849429

Get some flow improver - Galleria is great - and some matte artists varnish. Your painting is quite alright but your thinning and transitioning could be improved drastically by doing thinner, properly thinned layers with high precision brushes.
>>
>>43850877

They are great but most people are not smart enough to paint proper fire and glow effects, resulting in pizza looking models
>>
>>43850973
Would they be a nightmare to recast?
I need to make like 15. I have experience casting but this seems like a really difficult model to do so.
>>
>>43851036

Eh, doesn't seem too bad if they are multipart. Fur like textures and stuff aren't hard to recast.
>>
>>43851036
>>43851059
They got a lot of pointy tips that look like they would trap bubble if you don't have a vacuum chamber or something like that.
Tbh I think the kadaii thingies look like fairly generic fire elementals anyway those are a dime a dozen. Reaper might even have a bones one if you are lucky.
>>
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>>43851079
Yeah you're right there would be alot of bubbles with the flame wisps.
I tried looking for good looking elementals but I couldn't find anything close to the detail that I want. I honestly don't like reaper whatsoever, it looks like an etsy for shitty sculptors in my opinion. Might just stick with recasting these guys and getting some roman legionnaires.

I'll probably put wings on them since the unit has the 'fly' rule. I'm more worried about painting skin tone to this level than great looking fire to be honest.
>>
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working on yet another Nurgle Termie-guy. I want all of my terminators to look as if they could be commanders in their own right, so when I do actually make the real Nurgle Chaos Lord, He'll fit in with them.

I'm still figuring out how I'll do him, but for now, here's what I'm working on. Comments, critiques, suggestions and whatnot are appreciated.
>>
>>43851124
>I honestly don't like reaper whatsoever, it looks like an etsy for shitty sculptors in my opinion.
They have a huge huge catalog. Sure they have some dated and mediocre or even bad sculpts, but they also have a lot of really good ones.
>>
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>>43840092
very cool project, looking forward to more
>>
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>>43851300
I knew I saw this before.
>>
>decent painter
>really enjoy painting and completing a model
>every now and then get half way through one model and its starting to turn shit
>due to this feeling get more impatient and in turn make it more shit
>put it down
>don't want to start painting again because left with bad feel from last half finished average model
>2 weeks pass

Fuck this. Help me tg
>>
>>43851351
Have you tried not giving up so easily?
Seriously. Practice makes perfect. I can understand that it can be frustrating, but since you are the guy doing it you should be able to pinpoint the problem a little more precise beyond 'it turns to shit'.
So whatever you do when it turns to shit you need to work on that particular skill.

In case you want some actually useful input post the stuff that you consider shit and get some real feedback.
>>
>>43851379
The problem was painting a 'blood raven'.

Terrible colorscheme.
>>
>>43851351
Have you tried the fuck it adjustment? If you feel it getting shitty that far in, just say fuck it and finish it without trying to unshit it . Push it aside for later. Finishing it is better than leaving it half done, and you can move straight into a different one.
>>
>>43851417
Could work. I need to push through.
>>
>>43851351
What I do in games with "leaders" and "bros" is get two leaders. Paint 1 leader, if you get half way and want to give up, finish it.

Paint a bunch of your "bros", hone your craft and when you really feel ready to go, paint the other leader.
>>
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>>43838631
I'm not very good at this, best I could do.
>>
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So parts for the Ta'unar are arriving. I did not realize how big this fucker was going to be....For comparison, here is an Imperial Knight with an extra inch from the base. Next to it one of the top guns. this fucker going to be big.....
>>
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How many types of spray primer is there on the market?
I used Glanzer (Ammoniac-based detergent) to scrap the paint off a white-primed hammerhead and fully painted XV15s, and it worked like a charm. Then I try to do the same with some old Crisis suits, and all I got was the paint being all goey, but it still sticks to the model. I barely had to brush for the paint to fo away in big lumps with the Hammerhead/XV15s.

So I'm starting to think that those Crisis Suits weren't primed using the same brand the other minis were primed with.
What kind of primer does /tg/ use? What kind of paint are they based on? That could help me pick the right product to solve my problem.
(Sorry for shitty photo quality, it's just for you folks to have an idea on what it looks like)
>>
>>43841766
>not realizing that orks just have to believe copper is the strongest thing in the universe in large enough numbers and it will be

Stop shittng up Orks with headcanon.

The gestalt waaugh m field doesnt work lile thst.
>>
>>43851717
It may also be that the minis were varnished after painting.

That'll turn to gooey gunk when trying to strip.
>>
>>43851717
Oh, were the models red? Red Paint akways seem to leave a second layer of brown almost chalky residue on the models when stripping and it's resistsnt to solvents, soap and scubbing has been the only solution for that.
>>
>>43849490
what does the book say?
>>
>>43851863
>>43851891
The minks I have issues with were only primed white. On the picture, you can see they're still on the sprue
>>
>>43850169
yah, I recommend you start book making things that interest you for future reference. hope that helps you out.
>>
>>43851079

Naw man, just sprinkle on some tac powder to break the surface tension and do a 2-part mold with the points pointing up. Shouldn't be much trappage and if there is, it shouldn't be anything a little greenstuff can't fix in minutes.
>>
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Dog goes woof, cat goes meow.
Bird goes tweet, and mouse goes squeak.
Cow goes moo. Frog goes croak, and the elephant goes toot.
Ducks say quack and fish go blub, and the seal goes OW OW OW.
But there's one sound that no one knows...

>>43852003
>what does the book say?
>>
>>43851142

Well, normally the power pack is at head height, even for chaos termies. He's basically a full head taller now. Not saying you're not allowed to or anything, just that it'll look pretty strange compared to how terminators normally look.

Maybe you can do something to the edges of the back to make it look like he literally burst out at the seams?
>>
>>43851351

That's why you should do dozens of cheaper models first, like cultists or marines. Once you're warmed up, it becomes second nature to paint well.
>>
>>43829175
>True name:
>FOLANQ'PPPHAAHLIOEUZULTLDHOWCCQ'ABLBHILPHOWKWEG'GEREPH

>True name:
>GURHOASHN'DEIRG'NAN'NIRCHZI'IKSARFOLTHLQ'CHEN'NU'UDHAOLLKS'TLILZAOFLDEBH'DEBHDEDACHILERTH

kekd
>>
>>43851841
Yes it does, and stop shitting up wip threads with no wip.
>>
>>43851531
Absolute madman/10
>>
>>43848230
>Could just use a hand that usually holds a chainsword or axe or a banner bearer or something like that
I could, but all those that come with CSM kit are left handed
>>
>>43853068
I'm the one that asked you about the book hand much earlier (that's my hobby area in the op too), but I also posted a bunch of my wip sorcerers of tzeentch around the middle. check mine and if you like those staff hands, consider that those are gk bits. not that hard to replace the staff they are holding.
>>
>>43829175
At least no one will be surprised DPs are T5/3+.
>>
>>43852733
>Naw man, just sprinkle on some tac powder to break the surface tension and do a 2-part mold with the points pointing up.
Talcum powder only helps the resin flow into fine detail better it does not magically make air disappear. Having the tips point up will definitely trap air unless you cut an air channel for each single trap which is virtually impossible.
You want the tip to face down inside your mold no matter what.
>>
>>43853499
No armour usually. 5++ re-rolling 1s.
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