Hey guys what do you think about MDF Terrain? Lots of people seem to make this stuff, but is it any good compared to the typical source for wargame terrain like foam or plasticard?
I have to admit unpainted they look a bit too jigsaw puzzley but I guess you cover that up with paint.
>>43601702
they're getting cheaper, but they take forever to paint, even with an airbrush.
>>43602232
true I suppose. most plain terrain is flat so a quick coat is all they eed (heck maybe even use a roller) but mdf tends to have all these wacky groves and patterns
>>43602604
Pro tip: Paint it before assembly.
>>43601702
The MDF stuff looks hit or miss to me but I guess that would be the case for every terrain product when speaking of them in general terms. You can also cover the corners with a one or two strips of plastic or other materials as well, if you want that particular look.
pdfs related only in that it's terrain.
Two related files will follow shortly.
>>43602883
>>43602899
Be careful about the dust when sanding / filing / cutting. The adhesives used in it do a number on your lungs.
I think I know a guy with a laser cutter.
So where I fidn cool files with stuff to cut?
Anyone tried printing the design on paper, then glue paper on the mdf, then cut it with laser?
This way you don0t have to paint it.
>>43601702
Th mdf terrain doesnt need to be completely made out of it, you can always add bits and pieces from other stuff or add mdf bits to other terrains. I think its better than foancore because its simply easily available on my area compared to hard foam.
>>43602971
no different that resin I suppose
>>43601702
>but is it any good compared to the typical source for wargame terrain like foam or plasticard?
Absolutely yes. Unless you have time and ability and a lack of funds to buy it, it's strictly better for wargames terrain. It's more durable than foamboard, pretty much any old idiot can put it together, and smart fucks can customise it really easily.
And as for what's available, it can go from just basic blocks with barely any detail that you can just build off of if you want to oh fuck my life 20+ hour builds of pre-painted complexity (any of 4Ground's large kits especially that tavern and church).
laser cutters are old tech and honestly id rather cut paper than wood for wargames. I think like mdf is just too heavy and extream your playing with plastic figures not metal chess sets.
>>43610797
Are you trying to troll? Most manufactures produce in metal, that aside paper is only a viable option for scatter terrain. As soon as you need scenery that actually has some height variation or you want multiple story buildings paper is pretty useless.
At the very least you need cardboard.
>>43611451
Probably back the structure up with foam board or something. The terrain would last a touch longer too.
>>43612113
>>43612139
>>43612113
Problem with that: Foamboard can be a right arse to cut straight lines on repeatedly. laser-cut MDF doesn't have that problem, it's already done. And still more durable plus cheaper in time required to construct.
Printed stuff has it's place, but it doesn't really have much to recommend it over decent MDF terrain except in certain circumstances.
I don't make terrain, but I've used MDF for sculptures before. Here are somethings too know.
MDF will absorb the shit out of paint. Make sure you use a primer on it before painting.
As another Anon mentioned, the shit is toxic. Wear a mask while sanding, always sand outdoors or in a well ventilated woodshop where you can vacuum up the dust.
MDF absorbs paint, but it will also absorb moisture and when it does, it can get really warped. Story anything made of mdf in a dry location. Don't keep this stuff in your basement.
If you use a table saw to make angled cuts, say for making corners, the angled edges will be very, very sharp. Like, slice your hand open sharp. Wear gloves when working with it, sand and blunt angled edges.
I don't know where you all buy your MDF, but you can get it in huge 4x8 foot sheets at Home Depot. Comes in a variety of thicknesses, but you can generally count on finding 1/8 and 1/4 inch thickness.
The shit is also pretty heavy. Keep that in mind if you start loading up a flimsy card table with mdf buildings.
Consider using Masonite or other pressed composite boards for something thinner and lightner.
>>43612873
also, the 4x8 foot sheets. Home Depot will slice it for you, into more reasonable sizes. Its not precision work, but they have large saws which can slice it up for moving. They generally charge 25 cents a cut.
>>43601702
The best MDF terrain is overpriced. The major draw of MDF terrain is low price and ease of assembly, but the best designs always cost a lot of money, relatively speaking compared to cheap MDF or scratch building.
They also have flaws you can't cover up even with paint, such as the jigsaw joint shapes.
Overall I'd say MDF has 9/10 potential but often 5/10 or at best 7/10 execution. One studio has MDF terrain that incorporates moving parts like turbines and rotating satellite dishes, as well as light up interiors.
>>43612958
>moving parts like turbines
what
so can I make Zanzibar from halo?
>>43612767
I'm not recommending foam board over MDF, mind, but adding to how paper can be reinforced for multiple levels should that route be chosen. Still, if a person has access to a laser cutter, all manner of materials can be cut. There are maker facilities you can go to for that.
>>43613154
>>43613172
>>43612873
Be careful if using Home Depot MDF in a laser cutter as there is such a think as laser grade MDF which is made using less harmful chemicals so that the laser cutting process produces less toxic dust.
For example laser grade MDF will omit Formaldehyde from the bonding resin and trust me you do not want that shit in your lungs!
>>43613193
>>43613216
>>43601702
I have never used MDF for terrain, but I use it at work all the time.
>>43612873 Has it right, but to add to his comment: prime it with an ALKYD primer before painting, two coats of primer is preferred. We prime twice (no sanding in between primer coats) so there is less of a chance of sanding down to bare MDF when sanding before the first finish coat.
I would recommend Zinsser Cover Stain (comes in rattle cans if you don't have a sprayer) as a primer, it's what we use at work and it has never done us wrong.
Of note on sanding: with kits you will almost never have to do this.
With the thicknesses used, it's easier to carve off chunks with a knife if the parts don't fit properly.
>>43614476
Mordanburg stuff looks so good, but it's just as expensive as getting resin buildings from tabletop world.
Shame really. If they were cheaper (say they made a 'unpainted' version) I'd totally go for that.
>>43615209
Unlike the resin stuff though they're properly usable, not just space fillers, since they all open up, have functioning doors and that kinda thing.
>>43615233
The tabletop world stuff has fully modeled interiors and you can take each roof and story off individually.
They're just as functional as the mdf buildings with the exception of working doors. That's something I can live with considering the extra quality of the rest of the building. If you really wanted that it wouldn't be hard to cut the buildings doors out and sink some magnets in as well.
>>43613134
They have little toy car motors that spin the MDF parts. All the terrain is sci-fi, but off the top of my head I remember a spinning large satellite dish, two spinning factory turbines, and one spinning large water wheel thing.
