/bqg/ - Bike Questions General
If you want help picking out a bicycle, post in >>>/n/bbg , not here.
I have 50mm carbon clinchers on my cross bike right now for use on the road. I'm building a dedicated road bike and I'm trying to decide whether or not to get carbon wheels for it or save some money and get alloys. I don't like how much I get pushed around in crosswinds on my current wheels; if I was going to get more carbon clinchers I'd get 38mm instead of 50mm. I'm also concerned about braking performance.
No. The wheels I have now set me back about $700 CAD. It'd cost about the same (less actually because I'd use Sapim Laser instead of CX-Ray spokes) for another set of carbon wheels, or like $500 for a set of alloys (using Stan's Alpha 340 rims).
got questions about shoes/pedals
I. i think ive got an old pair of sampson step ins, where its not like little pins, it looks kinda like a ski binding. Are there cleats for those anymore that arent super hard to get ahold of?
II. Are cleats interchangeable on all shoes? or is that only a high priced sorta thing?
III. Best brand with lots of support and compatability? Probably shimano huh?
Between road shoes, mostly yeah,
Spd-sl and spd and the road and mtb standard respectively, but the others are good too. The best brand for shoes is whatever is at a local shop and fits you the best. It's not worth buying shoes online and guessing at the fit. Sidi are the best shoes.
Thanks for the input bud!
I've got pic related, shoulda just posted a pic at the start huh? Doesn't really match anything online I've seen and their home site doesn't even list them.
There are two main mounting systems: 2-bolt and 3-bolt. Cleats for MTB pedals mount to 2-bolt; cleats for road pedals mount to 3-bolt.
Shimano's a good bet, not the only horse in town though.
does anyone recognize this? It looks so familiar but I can't put a name to it.
the hassles of buying used bikes from people who can't photograph properly
looking for some help. Is this ok bike for 500 euro? I don't know much about bikes because I had the same one for 10 years. Now looking for a new one
some info on parts: Shimano ultegra
Shimano hyperglide 8speed
Shimano Dura Ace 2speed
wheels: Continental Grand Prix 4000
Shimano Dura Ace
saddle: San Marco BlazeK
brakes: Modolo speed
i'd get a cheap set of alloy clinchers for training and commuting, then save a nice set of carbons for racing or whatever... to many fucked up things in the road that can destroy rims.
Its a 25 year old handbuilt bike from a small builder with TDF winning pedigree, chromed lugs, columbus SLX tubing. a stunning paintjob, and a build old enough to look gorgeous and new enough to be servicable with in production parts.
It's not merely old, it's a vintage classic. It's meant to be ridden too and i bet it rides fantastically. If kept in good condition the value of it will never fall, and probably increase.
400 Euro would be more fair. 150 is an insult.
I'm 190 pounds if that helps. Last time I rode it, I went for a 25 mile ride, and my hands kept falling asleep one me. I was told that might be from having a weak core and not being strong enough yet though.
Not technical, hope it still fits here.
I usually ride around 90-100 cadence, but struggle putting out enough power. Would I progress more at a lower cadence (~80/85) or do I just need to train more and the power will come up while riding higher cadence?
That's usually symptomatic of ulnar nerve pressure. It can be the result of a poor bike fit, poor core strength, or a couple of other things. There's really no way for me or anyone else to e-diagnose.
Are 27 inch forks longer than 700c ones? I'm building a cheapo gravel bike out of parts bin and all I have left is forks made for 27 wheels. Would running a 37 inch for on a 700c frame be bad ?
you could have used that $200 on a used bike that was complete and would have been able to ride it for years and years. It would be more functional than what you just bought and probably still have a higher resale value. You are about 3 years late to fit in with the fixie hipsters which just makes you retarded. We gave you an honest answer, you should have expected that hen you came here asking for opinions... throw the cheapest tires you can find on it, hows that? does that advice work for you?
I agree with this guy. You could have gotten a schwinn world sport or something cheap on cl and convert it. Not only is it personally gratifying but you also Learn a ton about wrenching on bikes.
>hating on hiten
Shit's comfy bro
The problem with PureFix isn't even the shit materials. The problem is that they don't even use proper jigs when doing frame assembly. Most of their headtubes, bottom brackets, and dropouts are crooked. Sometimes dangerous so.
And of course all of the components on them are worthless garbage. So you're paying for a bike and getting nothing.
99% of the people that shit on hiten have never actually ridden it, just like 99% of the people that shit on carbon have never actually ridden it.
Let's not kid ourselves here: hiten is heavy as fuck. especially straight-gauge. It is nowhere near as nice as butted cromo.
But it still rides nice in it's own way. Less springy than better steel - almost spongy. And there's something liberating about being on a frame that you give absolutely zero fucks about.
TIG welded frames are always going to be lighter than lugged frames, and a lot of parts are much cheaper to manufacture in aluminum than steel these days: headset cups, spacers, hubs, wheel rims, etc
They're not, for what they are.They're a similar weight to a decent aluminium multi speed flat bar road bike ("hybrid").
There's no way you'd get them up to the flats even if they were the right diameter, so if they are they'd have to go at the ends of the bars (I may have seen this done before). I don't really know why you'd want to do that instead of just getting bar end shifters instead.
>I don't really know why you'd want to do that instead of just getting bar end shifters instead.
it's old and it's my beater, and it would not be worth the hassle desu, thanks anyway anon
So my buddy brought his bike over to air up his tire yesterday. I opened up the valve cover and discovered this "presto" valve which I had never seen before. Decided to look it up and found this pic. Every bike I've ever known has used the "schrader" valve.
So what's the difference? Is one better than the other?
Smaller, simpler, (lighter?), gives you manual control over valve (schrader is spring activated, presta you manually twist the nut to open/close). Presta maybe better with higher pressures? people often say so, but not sure about that one. All good road bikes and most high end mountain bikes use presta. You might need a different pump head to inflate them, depends on which pump you have.
Smaller hole in the rim means stronger rim, and the valve design is simpler and can be opened by hand if stuck by tapping the top when unscrewed. It also doesnt ingest dirt and get clogged up if you're not using a valve cap.
The presta (aka Sclaverand, aka french valve) is simply better.
>There's no way you'd get them up to the flats even if they were the right diameter
There was some impressive idiot who made hit way into the troll bike threads by sawing his bars in half to get the gripshifts up there, and then hoped and prayed the stem clamp force would keep the handlebar halves together.
To add to these they're easier to attach a pump to as you don't have to push down hard to depress the pin like Schrader, the air pressure as you pump opens the valve. Also this means that less air escapes as you remove the pump head.
One downside is you have to take a bit more care when lining the pump head up because if you knock the pin you'll let out a load of air and have to do more pumping.
How can I build confidence carrying speed through blind hairpins? Any particular things I should think about or focus on beyond just repetition? I'm always worried about cars coming up in the opposite direction
Are you talking about the front & rear shifters, the extra chainring, crank & bottom bracket material necessary to secure the extra chainring, front & rear derailleurs, cassette, freehub assembly, derailleur hanger, cables, housing, braze-ons and cable guides?
Yeah bud, it weighs more than a couple lbs.
If you buy a high-end group it's not going to weigh a whole lot more, but we're talking about bottom-of-the-barrel BSO shit so that is hardly relevant.
My bike came with 10 speed Tiagra and is newer. That bike is old as fuck and only an 8 speed. Who wants to ride an 8 speed? I don't know much about older bikes but I'm going to guess a lot of the components are inferior to my bike even though it was good in its day and mine was never high end itself.
The only thing that you just said that I find appealing is that it is possibly very durable. I don't care about any of the other shit like vintage or paint jobs. Whatever man.
This is more of a math question, but can anyone tell me the fork length and offset for the 55cm version of this frame?
interested in some (shimano) dynamo hubs, is there any reason they can't/shouldn't be used for the rear wheel? anyone else use/used them before?
as I'm aware, they're up to a kilogram heavier and there's drag due to electromagnetic forces, but are there other reasons they're not more popular?
If i understand your question and reading the chart correctly:
Z = ((Y-D)/sin(G1)) - E
makes sense, but modern dynamos are lightweight and aero enough that only competitive cyclists needing to cut a few hundred grams would care. seems like the self-powered lights would be useful for anyone road biking
I'm building my own wheel so the hub itself goes on sale for well under 100$. Little worried about drag but we'll see i guess.
you just change the bar, which I have done before, but I am pretty certain that changing the shifts is a bit more complicated than switching a handle bar, it is a dumb idea, I'll probably just get ergo barends
You'll also need to change the stem and brake levers (and find levers that work with your brakes) and then learn how to wrap the bars.
>I'll probably just get ergo barends
That's a good idea.
It's not though, because the fork terminates here.
screw driver didn't work so i gave up. felt like i was going to break it. will try a coin as it's a bit thicker. are these things single use? would be nice to put it back on again if needed for night rides.
He wants to know the fork length (axle to crown, from the bottom of E to the point on the straight line adjacent to the one that's circled) and the fork offset which would be the distance from the circled point to the centreline of the headtube.
I wouldn't say it's basic, the actual math may be fairly simple but there's a lot of working out and there may not even be all the required info in that diagram.
Is it feasible to DIY replace an alloy handlebar with an internally-routed carbon fiber handlebar for a Di2 drive train without needing to take it to a mechanic? Or is it far too dangerous/risky to do this manually?
I just Googled a bunch of information thereabout and see that the tool is the Shimano TLEW02. With this small plastic inserter is it as easy to unplug and replug the cables from the junction box (I have the 6770 Di2 version) to the shifters as mechanics' tutorials make it appear?
I settled it for measuring in Photoshop and assuming the drawing is to scale. Shouldn't be off by inches or anything, and it really was just to confirm cockpit positioning relative to my current bike. Choices for stem length are in 10mm increments so it doesn't need to be like, surgically precise.
I got these pedals and their fairly light.
I'd like to use them on my city bike.
I did use them without shoes before andi t works out well but I think the would be great if the were the other way around.
that is, the platform part to the front ,instead of the clipless part to the front.
could I somehow switch them ?
like change the axels or something ?
that's what I thought, I might try it out.
well one thing that would improve would be weight distribution, as in , they wouldn't flip on the non usable side.
right now the narrow end is pointing towards the fork when using. when my foot is not on the pedal the thing flips over and the narrow side is pointing to the rear and thus the non usable side is facing up.
I hope this would stop happening if I could flip them because even if the longer, narrow and sags down , the rideable side would still be facing up.
also the beefier pplatform side would be directly under the ball of my foot (is that he right word ?).
does that make sense ?
Either get some cages and straps or get some actual platform pedals you stupid fucking fuck
I much appreciate you constructive criticism.
I have these around and the are quite allright to ride even the way they are, I suppose they would be even better when flipped , so why should I buy more stuff ?
Has anyone had any experience with those cheap chinese carbon wheels you can find on ebay?
I know chinese frames can be quite good but I'm even more sceptical with the wheels since I value my health. Any input would be great. I'm looking at a set with 50mm carbon rims for 399$.
Also, how long do carbon rims last given that you use the right brake pads? Do they wear out significantly faster than aluminium?
Just save up for a pair of Reynolds Strikes and buy the RAP insurance for a 2-year plan, that way you can get two pairs of wheels for the price of one, and can use your first set as workhorse/beaters
Hey im somewhat new to biking and i noticed some issues with the grips on my hybrid bike, my hands slip all over them when wet and they are. Really firm and cuase hand stress when riding for extended times, can you advise me. A replacement set for a reasonable price?
>Stan's Alpha 340 rims
Don't do it. Noodly, narrow and unaero rim. Its inner diamatre is an illusion caused by using much shorter bead hooks than real rims, also causing blowoffs when tubed and burps when tubeless. Google for Stans 340/400 blowoff.
Go for the Velocity A23 is you want soft and comfortable and don't care about aero, or H+S Archetype for looks and HED C2-like aerodynamics.
The Pacenti SL23 is slightly deeper but has the same sort of profile as the C2/Archetype, is a good compromise between stiffness and comfort, and weighs only forty grams more than the 340.
The 340/400 is a bad choice any way you see it.
What forks should I buy? the previous owner has run the stock suntour NEX 4610s into the ground and then some, so I'm considering getting something in the $80 price range, like a NCX or NRX. I have no clue what i'm doing, really
700c wheel, 255mm long, 1 1/8" diameter steering tube.
I tried to rebuild these ones, but the costs are quickly adding up: new seals, new slide tubes, blah blah blah, totaling like 50% of a new fork's price while still being rusty-ass shit
A) He bought it on Craigslist. He no doubt got this unbelievably great deal and couldn't resist in spite of the frame being "a bit high". This is always the case when silly people go bargainhunting for a used bike.
B) I have eyeballs. He has a picture.
I've ridden four other bikes in various shops and liked this one best specifically because it was the only bike I could find that I didn't ride with the constant fear of banging my knees on the handlebars or having to hold myself up with arms.
Depends on what got it dirty. A damp cloth with some washing-up liquid is a good start. Other than that, getting bar tape dirty is part of signaling that you actually ride your bike. Keep it dirty to impress your fr(i)e(n)ds.
Looking for a mountain bike to ride a couple times a month over the next 2 years. I want to spend less than $200 and I don't mind going to craigslist. If you were me what would you buy retail/keep an eye out for on craigslist?
Depends how hilly your route is and how much crap you carry. Weight doesn't make a huge different on flats unless you have to constantly accelerate from lights.
And to answer your original question the bike I use for commuting is an "all-road" adventure bike or whatever you want to call it with rack and panniers etc. Also 28mm tyres, but I want wider ones next.
90s rigid mtb (with slicks)
Sorry my reading comprehension is retarded. Are you implying you would rather shop on retail for a rigid(meaning no suspension?) mountain bike than try to find a decent retail mountain bike for under 200?
If so, why would you do rigid? It sounds like riding a rigid bike on a trail would pound my amatuer ass.
... May the Velominati Gods award you with saddle sores.
Looking for some new bike recommendations for a 5'7.5" female, in the gravel/any road category.
So far the Giant Brava and Invite Comax look like the best value, abit above budget though
I think I asked this earlier but I forget the answer.
I'm missing this part, and I know what it does, I just don't want it because it's simply going to fall off again.
The techs at the spot I bought it from should be able to tune my bike and take out the slack that was taken up by the missing part, right?
I need some ammunition because all they did was lock out my front derailleur and order the part, but I don't want it.
It won't fall off if they locktite the bolt properly. Whether you need it or not depends on how aggressively you ride, how willing you are to put up with the occasional dropped chain, if you have a clutch rear derailleur(and its on and providing enough tension.) etc etc
Here's how I did it.
Cat 4/5 yes, since crashing is likely and I like skin on my hands.
Cat 3 yes, until I knew the usual racers in my field.
Cat 2 no, but it's rubbing parts of my palms raw now.
Possibly, depends what length it currently is. That said even shortening it won't give the same chain retention as simply putting the roller back on. I'm not sure why you're so adamant to remove it instead of just using some threadlock.
So i just bought this aluminum road bike and the PO put these duro fixie tires on it. I've probably put around 100 commutung miles on it and they seem pretty solid, but am i sacrificing anything having these on? Braking maybe?
turbo plen here
why are Chris King headsets heralded as the absolute shit? More specifically, what can their top-line headsets do that the rest of the market cannot do as well, to warrant their high prices?
I have a rigid trail bike with 700C wheels. Rim brakes. Right now it has 32-spoke A23 rims, and they don't really seem up to the rigors of off road - I've bent one pretty badly after only 200 miles.
What's the most beastly 700C/29'er V-brake rim I can buy? Tubeless preferable but not required, and probably looking for a 36-spoke rim.
Velocity Quill? Velocity Cliffhanger? H SON Archtype? Mavic A719?
I'm also looking at the HED Belgium Plus, Pacenti SL23, WTB ChrisCross, and WTB Dual Duty - but AFAIK these are only available in 32-spoke.
Surprised to hear you're having trouble with A23s (poor quality wheelbuild?), but if you want the strongest wheels I'd say it's a toss-up between the Velocity Atlas and the Mavic A719, but you might also go for Sun Rhyno Lites if you want to save some money and don't care about weight. I built a set of wheels with A719 rims a couple years ago for my heavy hauling bike and have been very happy with them.
CK stuff is expensive because it's a famous brand name and because of all their color options - their parts are uniformly high quality, but not necessarily better than other quality brands.
This was a quality wheelbuild - I have a set of wheels with Dyad rims on my touring bike that were built by the same guy, and they're laser-straight many hundreds of miles later.
These wheels just taking some heavy hits in use on a rigid MTB that the A23 wasn't really intended for. The front wheel didn't just come out of true, I actually *bent* it on impact. This bike was built as a gravel/fire road rig but I've been taking it out on bigger stuff since it's just so damn fun.
All of the tougher wheels seem to be non-tubeless, and if I'm giving up on tubeless, the Atlas sure looks the part - love me some silver rims.
>This was a quality wheelbuild
Yes, the A23 is a very soft rim even for its weight class. It's built for road comfort and not offroad madness, so I'm not very surprised you managed to taco one. Even less with a rigid mountainbike.
Stick with 32 spokes to give you a wider choice of both rims and hubs, and go for unbutted spokes if you must have that last bit of stiffness. It'll come at a cost of spoke longevity but hopefully nothing major.
Or go the other way and build with 1.5mm spokes to reduce the risk of tacoing the wheels, but this will probably lead to (some) brake rub unless you ride with generous brake pad clearence. Your wheelbuilder can explain the tradeoffs in detail.
On chosing a rim I'd suggest looking for beefy, heavy, wide CX rims.
Of the ones you listed I'd advise against the Quill that is only marginally stiffer than the ultra soft A23, the SL23 that is also a rather soft road rim if not as soft as the A23, the Archetype, Belgium and CrisCross for being perhaps stiffer but still relatively light road rims. I'd disregard the Mavic rim on account of being Mavic. Their Maxtal alloy is brittle and known to crack around the eyelets when overloaded, and they're french.
I'd go for the WTB Dual Booty on 32h rims with standard 2.0/1.8/2.0mm butted spokes.
Finish and bling value.
Any reason other than rim availability to not go for 36 spoke? I actually have a nice set of 36 spoke hubs that have been on the shelf for a while waiting for a wheelbuild.
I've had great luck with WTB rims in the past, but the Velocity Atlas looks incredibly similar and not going to lie, I looove shiny silver rims.
Everyone who replied to you is correct: Nowadays, Chris King threadless headsets are popular almost exclusively because of bling bling. A Cane Creek 40 costs less than a third as much and works just as well.
It's also partly because their threaded headsets were DAMN good back in the day, actually better than most other options.
Jesus are they really that cheap? Pretty sure grip isnt a problem due to the overly aggressive tread. I haven't really cared too much since I've just been having fun enjoying the bike. Whats even worse is the front and back are different fucking colors..
PO = previous owner. You serious?
>Pretty sure grip isnt a problem due to the overly aggressive tread
Unless you're riding on loose dirt that's not the case. Chances are it's a fairly hard rubber (because it's designed for skidding, it's cheap, and coloured tyres aren't as good) so on a smooth surface it's not going to deform or grip as much and having tread cutouts just means there's less contact area.
eh tires are disposable, just wear them out, and then upgrade. Dope bike btw. Those colors actually look pretty cool imo. On the other hand tires are the most important component on a bike and a pair of nice slicks- 4000s v pro 4s- would improve your ride a lot.
>Pretty sure grip isnt a problem due to the overly aggressive tread
It doesn't work like that, see:
>Any reason other than rim availability to not go for 36 spoke?
Not that I can see. If you have the hubs and can find a rim I guess it might be worth it. Unless you plan on ever replacing said hubs. Unless it triggers some OCD you could skip every eighth hole and run it as a 32h hub.
On the Atlas, I don't think I would. It's expensive for a Velocity ($120 polished!?) which I would never pay given their record of crappy finish and tons of bur. The Atlas is also both narrower than the WTB (19 vs 23) and weighs 630g while the WTB at least keeps it under 600.
So, three times the money for something likely worse. If you want polished rims I'd take some paint stripper and polishing paste to the WTB instead. For the difference in price you could even pay someone else to do it.
>Granted this assumes that the road you're on isn't fucked up
Unless you mean 'fucked up' as in a few inches of mud then no, no it doesn't. Smooth tyres give better grip even on worn and rough roads.
>Cat 2 no, but it's rubbing parts of my palms raw now.
The circle is complete. It is time.
Allow me to quote it for you
>Tread patterns have no effect on surfaces in which they leave no impression. That is to say, if the road is harder than the tire, a tread pattern does not improve traction.
Rubber deforms to take the shape of the surface you're riding on, if you remove rubber (a treaded tyre) you have less rubber making contact and thus less grip. Tread matters on surface that can move such as mud and gravel.
Why do shoes have tread? Because they're also flat so it gives somewhere for water to go and they're also used on softer surfaces.
For a shoe that would only be used on a hard surface a completely smooth sole would give the most grip. There are however downsides to this such as flexibility and cushioning/shock absorption.
Anybody riding tubeless on road? Is it worth it?
>Gotten back into cycling.
>Look at shed.
>Best bike there is an old mountain bike.
>It's been there for 10 years - metal parts have rust on them.
>But the tires seem fine.
>The breaks work, although the front one cause some squeaking that concerns me.
>Back derailleur works, but the front one needs adjustment - it doesn't shift to the lowest gear.
>I think the seat needs some adjustment as well.
Are there any other repairs that I should do? I like to do some one day excursions around the region with it, mostly on bike paths. Are there any upgrade suitable for me, or should I get a new bike?
Oh yeah, definitely would not be paying the $30 premium for the polished version.
Still, fair enough point about the cost (the non-polished version of the Atlas is still nearly twice the price of the Dual Duty) and the size - not only is the DD wider, it's a taller rim section as well which should really give it some extra impact resistance.
Sorry if I'm retarded, I'm crossposting.
Today I was riding my hybrid and I rode onto a curb too fast, resulting in a loud clunk sound. Now when I pedal, my pedals skip every 5 seconds or so, almost as if I'm shifting gears. It seems to happen more the harder I pedal. I checked the chain, and it looks like it's aligned alright. Anyone know why this is? I'd really rather not have to bring it into a shop.
After a decade of storage the bearings - wheels, crank, & headset - could probably stand to be re-packed with grease, though they may or may not be fine.
and the chain could probably stand to be replaced.
Upgrades - not really. Bar-ends would be a nice addition to add a comfortable hand position or two. They're inexpensive, widely available, and just a nice improvement.
A good saddle could be a worthwhile investment, but this will be a more personal choice.
I have Shimano Sora STI shifters. Right (rear) works fine, but I may have some problem with left one (front). When I want to put lower gear I have to press shifter harder and then front derailleur makes this loud shot. It doesn't sound nice, I don't want to break/rip something.
I loosened derailleur strings and it didn't helped.
Is it normal? Or should I visit service?
>Now I have to press shifter twice to change gear
It's caled a trim step. It's not a gearshift, but to trim out chain rub. When you're in high gear in front and shifting to a low gear in the back you tap the front shifter past the first click to have the derailleur move in slightly, allowing you to crosschain (large front/large back) without the chain rattling against the front derailleur cage.
You can keep pressing past the first click through the second click in one motion for an instant front shift.
I have no knowledge about cyclocross so I'll ask a dumb question.
Why do cyclocross bikes have no fork suspension? I don't understand how top-end high-modulus carbon cyclocross frames and wheels can take such sustained impacts without cracking
>Why do cyclocross bikes have no fork suspension?
Because fat tyres they're not allowed, and possibly not even an advantage in the muddy conditions cyclocross is raced.
Also, carbon fibre is not brittle. Aluminium is brittle and has horrible fatigue life. Carbon fibre is extremely tough and has excellent fatigue properties. It is mostly plastic resin, after all.
Because they're heavy, have no damping (pogo stick), suffer horrible stiction and you're supposed to be out of the saddle in any technincal terrain anyway so they're completely useless as a rear suspension substitute.
They are a poor excuse for bump absorbant that your legs should be handling. Except they are
reactive where your legs would be proactive, making, me at least, every ride wheel slightly queasy.
And the do nothing for actual handling characteristics of the bike.
Does anybody have a recommendation for a phone mount on my bike? (LG G4)
Bonus points where it would protect my phone in case I biffed it or something.
Topeak Drybag. Touch works. Protected against rain. Not a lot of bumber protection, but also not nothing. I have one and it's ace.
>i dont understand something so i better throw around the m word hurr
Aluminum does have shit fatigue life. Carbon fibre has great fatigue properties. Nothing in that very well known test goes counter to this. It just shows frame build and design is more important to absolute fatigue life than the properties of the raw materials.
GP was under the mistaken impression that carbon fibre was brittle and unsuitable for rough sports like cyclocross. I used aluminium as an example of a truly brittle and low fatigue strength material that has been made into excellent frames for decades. You didn't even understand the point of the post you made your nonsensical reply to, you twat.
what bike is this?
Shimano SPD vs Time Atac? Specifically Shimano M520 vs Time Atac MX2. I know they're not in the same category, as MX2 have a bit of additional platform, XC2 would be a closer analogue to M520, but these are my current favorite options for a first clipless pedal.
Yeah, that's a serious advantage that I've taken into account. It's just that I keep hearing and reading that Time Atacs and Crank Brothers offer a way better system. Crank Brothers are overpriced, and the cheap models break easily, so they're out of the question for now. Hence I'm eyeing Time Atacs, the bottom end MX2 model has very good reviews and supposedly good reliability. I just don't want to by SPDs only to switch on to a "better system" afterwards.
>to switch on to a "better system"
I've seen some people who switched from spd to eggbeaters. They are just like people switched from pcs to macs
>muh ingenious design
30 year old steal bike with ukai wheels
back wheel has a little wobble, is it worth spending 15 to get it trued, tried myself but failed. Also worth getting overhaul or buying tool myself? here weird noise down there, guessing its bearings
should i swap my clip and strap and get shoes and new pedal or just ride with regular shoes.
>It just shows frame build and design is more important to absolute fatigue life than the properties of the raw materials.
Exactly, which is why - in the context of discussing the materials used in bicycle frames and components - it is silly and unhelpful to spew shit like
>aluminum is brittle and has terrible fatigue life.
I did that by removing the granny and installing an aftermarket bashguard where the outer ring used to be. Works just fine, although the chainline is slightly outboard than where a "ready-made" single speed mtb crankset would put it.