Hey guys,
I have 9 speed hoods, is it possible to use a 10 speed rear derailleur with them or will it burst into flames first time I shift?
Burst into flames
The latter
I 100% know for sure that using a shifter designed for LESS gears works perfectly fine paired with a rear derailleur designed for MORE gears.
I've mated 9 and 10 speed rear mechs with 7 and 8 speed STI shifters, and an 11 speed rear mech with 105 10 speed shifter. Everything worked just fine.
I have no idea whether you can do the opposite, 11 speed shifter with 10 speed mech.
>>931559
> an 11 speed rear mech with 105 10 speed shifter
>huehuehue
I once tried to do this, OP.
When I took it out for a test ride everything seemed to go fine on my first shift, no flames.
On my second shift I started getting noise from my reach derailleur. Right as I thought, "Oh great," my RD exploded violently. Shrapnel went into my back and my rear wheel was destroyed.
I tried to steer my front wheel so I could minimize injury, but both of my hoods disintegrated and I completely lost control. My bike came out from underneath me, hit the pavement, and shattered.
I managed to recover my brakes, front wheel, and front derailleur tho.
I'd say it's worth a shot.
I tried this and when I tried to shift gears the increased leverage from the 9 speed shifters (shorter throw = more torque!) slammed the rear derailleur right into my rear wheel.
At first I thought that shouldn't even be possible but on closer inspection the force from the shifters had sheared the limit screw right off!
All in all I wouldn't recommend it!
>>931551
There is a hack you can do. It's called alternate cable routing and it might work
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/drivetrain-mixing.shtml
For 9-speed shifters to 10-speed RD, you might have to dremel the RD and it's an advanced bit of bike work with a lot of potential for error.
>>931586
Yeah I did read that and it was interesting, but sounds dodgy all around. I might find some 10 speed shifters but the main reason I didn't wanna get some is that I'm poor as fuark.
>inb4 durr ace on a budget
I adopted the bike m8s
>>931595
You could get 9sp Sora RD and cassette for under $40.
Another option is a jtek shiftmate #2 (sold more or less exclusively through SJS Cycles), although that's going to be slightly more expensive due to exchange rates and shipping.
What's with people talking about alternate routing and shiftmates? There's no compatibility issues with using 9spd brifters with a 10spd RD, assuming OP is using a 9spd cassette. The only issue here would be chain width (9 spd chain going through a tad narrower RD pulleys), but even then nothing should happen.
Best plain jerseys?
>>931660
BBB and DHB are nice for the cash laddy.
>>931666
NIce, I want that ROADTECH BBW-232. But I'm in USA.
>>931659
This. The derailer is just a mechanism for moving the chain sideways and the amount it moves is regulated by the shifter, as long as the cable pull from the shifter is correct (I do believe Shimano 9 and 10 speed road are the same, I know they changed the cable pull for flat bar shifters when upgrading to 10 speed) then it should work fine.
If the cable pull ratio is the same then literally the only functional difference between a 9 and 10 speed derailer would be the width of the cage (although a 9 speed change should still fit).
theres no indexing in the derailleurs, that happens in the shifter. Its just a spring and free movement with derailleurs, the shifters will just pull the derailleurs the required amount.
I'm currently running 11 speed shifters with a 10 speed cassette because I'm broke and don't have money for a new 11 speed hub on my shitted up 11 speed wheels so I'm using an older 10 speed hub wheelset, works fine, I've just set the tension so it takes 2 clicks to get into the 11t and 2 clicks to get into the 28t.
70mm brake pads for road bike. Does it work fine?
>>931709
No. Road bike brake shoes take 55mm pads. Canti/V shoes don't fit. Perhaps you could hack a 70mm shoe to fit, but why would you?
so if i buy a new chain (old 90s rigid mtb) i should probably replace the freewheel(hub), but i dont think those are being made anymore, how much would it end up costing me?
>>931741
Freewheel cassettes are still being made. A 7spd one will set you back about 10€. SJS Cycles carry lots.
You can even get 10spd freewheels for franken-upgrades.
>>931745
thanks anon, i was misled
>>931690
Why didn't you just remove one sprocket on the 11spd cassette and set the limiter to only allow ten shifts?
It is what Sheldon would have wanted.
Looking for a single speed project to build up and use for beer runs or commute 2 miles with. Found this on Craigs list. Has everything listed for 150 but seems high. What would be a reasonable offer. Pic related
>>931751
Please don't ruin that beatiful frame with your hipster-bullshit fantasies. It deserves to be a real bike.
150 coconuts seem bang on target to me. If it was papayas I might be a bit reluctant.
>>931753
I am not a hipster. It would be a clean build just single speed. I have 2 other geared bikes
>>931754
Leave it for someone who's doing a road bike build. It's much too nice to slaughter.
Look for something with track ends if you want a nice and pretty build, or some old tenspeed with forward sliding dropouts if you want cheap and bum.
Hi /BQG/,
I recently bought a new bike with an ultegra 11-25 cassette, but since I am planning on going to the alps this summer I think it might be worth having a 28 ring. Should I get a separate 28 ring and put it in and take another ring out of the cassette? Is that even possible?
Or should I just get a new 11-28 cassette? How quickly do the cassettes wear? I ride about 150km a week, will I wear down a cassette any time soon? In that case its worth the new cassette simply as a spare.
And in case of a new cassette, should I get the ultegra or the 105? Ultegra is 50 euros and 105 is 36 euros.
>>931762
As far as I know, the lowest 4 or 5 cogs on every Shimano cassette are stuck together, and only the heavier cogs can be swapped out individually. You'll have to get another cassette.
And cassette life is a very variable thing, I'd say getting a new one every year is good, if you ride a lot. High-end cassettes should wear faster than lower end, so if durability is an issue, go for the 105. It's only gonna be a few grams heavier.
>>931762
>exchange only single ring
It's possible, but you probably don't want to. In the case of the latest generation 105 and Ultegra you will technicaly be changing the _two_ largest cogs, because they are riveted to the same spider.
Get an 11-28 105 cassette. It's easier, will only cost slightly more and you'll have a fully pristine climbing cassette for you next adventure. Buy a new chain and use/store them as a pair too.
>>931690
Only so true as the dérailleurs move laterally the same proportion per cable pull distance, which nothing dictates that it does
It may or may not work
>>931741
I bought a new shimano 7speed freewheel for $12 US a year or so ago. pleasantly surprised.
>>931776
But it does for all Shimano 7/8/9/10 (but not 11) speed road derailleurs, you dingus. Why do you guys keep this hurr-durr routine of supposed incompatibility in every thread that happens to stray into the subject, instead of even go ogling just once to find out that mixing like this is common practice?
I mean, you've only had to see one RD dress up bike in your life to understand that it obviously works, and that's about half the middle range brand name bikes out there.
Jesus fuck.
I've never really owned a good bike before, but I've been thinking of getting an electric bike. For someone who has little knowledge with bikes, would it be a bad idea to get a kit, battery, and bike separately and try to put it together?
>>931794
It's not super difficult to put together but it will probably be quite time consuming and you may run into issues that require some creative thought. One thing to check before you make a purchase is that the battery will fit (if it's not a rack mount one), the seller should give some basic dimensions. Also you want a half decent frame with some strong dropouts as those are what resist the torque from the motor, obviously the more powerful the motor the stronger the frame will have to be.
>>931795
What motor do you use? So far, I've only really read about the BBS02/BBSHD (which sound like they're harder to install), so I'm not familiar with any decent hub motors.
>>931796
Yeah a mid drive motor will be harder to install and potentially have more issues with frame compatibility, also they're quite a bit more expensive. They do have their advantages though (I may get one at some point), they're lighter and better balanced (weight is centred), generally have more torque, and they allow you more freedom with gearing by being able to choose the chainring size and any rear wheel you want (for example you could go all the way up to 11 speed, use an IGH, or even a CVT like the Nuvinci 360)
As for what motor I use, I really don't know. I bought it all as a kit and the manufacturer wasn't specified, all I know is that it's geared (not direct drive) and "500W" with a 36v battery (the controller will actually put out just over 700W on a fresh battery).
>>931748
if I removed one sprocket on a 10 speed cassette that would make it a 9 gear anon
you can't make the limits adjust the indexing of the shifters, they're for not dumping the chain into the spokes or jamming it on the frame after the 11
>>931776
maybe this would be an issue for running something like 7 speed derailleur with a 10 speed
the difference between pulls of 9 and 10 speed is so small it will work
>>931800
Is it working out well for you? I'm worried about getting a kit that turns out to be garbage and breaks/explodes in a month.
>>931801
sorry read that wrong, but it wouldnt really make much difference of turning a 11 speed cassette into a 10 speed one with removal of 1 cog, I'm pretty sure I actually fiddled with this and couldn't find a good spot to remove the cog as the jump would be too large between the one I removed, I couldn't just remove the 11t because the end cap needs that.
The manuals say the difference between 11 and 10 speed is too large cross compatibility but with some fiddledicking it works just fine. I've even run 11 speed chains on the 10 speed and 10 speed chains on the 11 speed. Maybe that puts more wear but I never noticed any. I think the 10 speed cassette I have shifts far nicer with this bootlegging than the 11 speed provided in the group. But its Sram Force22 so its garbage anyways. Can't wait to get a new group.
>>931803
Yeah it's working fine, nearly 450 miles on it now. The only issue I've had is with the power button on the battery, it's gotten temperamental and sometimes won't turn off, I can still turn it off at the controller so it just means the LED on the battery stays on. Probably my own fault for always leaving it out the the rain, but it's not a big deal and an easy fix if I cared to.
Personally I love the thing and it was well worth the money, not only is it really practical (getting where I need to go much faster and with less effort) it's also a ton of fun, on and off road.
what distinguishes the thousand different innertubes? why not get the cheapest?
Favorite trigger shiftiers for a 3x7 mtb?
I don't know where else to post this. I posted on reddit for the first time because one of their subs seems like the most likely place to get an answer about a certain niche product.
They are literally all circlejerking egotistical judgemental opinionated Nikkis who can not comprehend why someone would every care about something they don't care about. Or at least the ones that are active in responding are. I feel dirty.
>>931894
some are made from butyl, some are made from latex. the used condoms lower rolling resistance and are all supple n' shit, but they leak air like a motherfuck and instead of dicking around with that you should just go tubeless.
butyl tubes are mostly made by kenda and cst, although I think schwalbe and conti make their own. schwalbe tubes supposedly have better quality control, more uniform wall thickness, and better valves than anyone else. they and conti have removable valve cores which is neat if you want to pump some sealant into them.
>>931923
> schwalbe tubes supposedly have better quality control, more uniform wall thickness, and better valves than anyone else
Have you been listening to the Schwalbe shill again?
>>931924
freeshrugs.mov
>>931895
idk about 3x7 (your bike must either be ancient or a BSO) but while I like SRAM's shifting feel and speed, their derailers are unreliable as fuck, so I'd go with Shimano. Personally I'd go all XT but with XTR shifters.
Best way to get surface rust off of chrome forks?
>>931923
latex leak but not a crazy amount
I have vittoria latex innertubes, couple bucks more than butyl, but they are lighter, faster rolling, more comfortable and more durable than butyl.
>>932004
Spray with WD40 and scour the rust spots with balled up aluminum foil
>>932006
use coca cola instead of wd40 with tinfoil
>>931551
>hoods
I assume you mean shifters?
You can't have a 9 speed piece of rubber, that doesn't make sense.
>>932016
>Yellow
What the actual fuck, why is it not Tour Yellow or something?
>>932017
Also why is it "Paris Pink". Should be "Giro Pink" or "Italia Pink".
>>931894
I always get the cheapest. I'm not disputing anything the other posters said, but unless you need to buy for the reasons they explain, a regular butyl tube is the same regardless of brand, in my experience.
maybe if I raced I might try latex (or tubeless) but I don't.
although, it's easy to forget the shipping weight of a tube is pretty high versus a lot of other stuff for bikes. I once tried to pad out an international order with a few tubes. the "cheap" tubes would have doubled the shipping. the aluminum parts which the order was actually for were comparatively lightweight. "since I'm already paying for international shipping I'll get some socks, bartape, and tubes that I need anyway… wait, what the heck?" those coils of rubber are dense.
>>932099
But the Forte light tubes only cost a dollar more.
>>932101
okay
>>932102
They weight half as much
>>931762
What cranks does the bike have, out of curiosity?
After reading about rando/ando/adventure/cross-country "roadie-likes" bikes here I got an itch to get myself one that I can't shake off.
My only current bike is quite heavy, but that's OK since I am not very fast and mostly commute in the season, but with a new bike like what I mentioned, that would be lighter and faster and still versatile and able to fit a (at least for rear) mudguard and maybe even a rack just in case I could ride more and take more pleasure in it.
Alas, I don't have the kind of money to get me sexy bike like that, not to mention not exactly having a space to fit it in for winter and whenever I am not riding it.
/N/iggas, how do you cope with unquenchable desire to own more bikes?
Alternatively: what adventure bikes would you recommend? (Can be something ridiculous too, with TT geometry and retroshift shifters on schwalbe marathons just because).
Hit me.
Is it me or do V-brakes sit closed to the rim than cantilever brakes?
>>932274
>/N/iggas, how do you cope with unquenchable desire to own more bikes?
I remind myself that my net worth is less than $100k, my financial well-being is completely dependent on the whims of the management of the company I work for, it's about time I bought some new suits appropriate for an interview, and my existing bike is perfectly fine
That quenches it pretty good, YMMV
>>931551
You need to change the cable pull ratio senpai. Just did this yesterday, 9sp bar end shifter, 10sp shadow+ rd
>>931551
Just buy a frame with down tube shifters (masi Gran criteriaum) and set it up as a frition shift setup.
99% of road cyclists can't shift a friction shift setup too reliant on index
>>931756
Nah some people love 90s jap bikes even the Sears stuff
Any bike that looks visually appealing is "hipster bullshit" bike bike autists
What does it mean when rear derailleur specs cite:
Maximum Sprocket: 32T / 14T
Minimum Sprocket: 25T / 11T
Does it mean if you want 32t low gear, you can only go up to 14t high gear? What if I want a 11-32t cassette ? Or does it not refer to cassette range?
>>932293
32/14 will help you climb, as keeping a higher cadence on a steep hill will require less leg strength.
the 25/11 will help you in those time when you gottagofast
>>932356
I know what the number of teeth do. What I want to know is, does it mean the derailleur can't have the whole range at the same time ? No 32-11t?
>>932369
It would be much more helpfull if you'd tell what derailleur it is, and who's providing those numbers to you.
>>932376
Shimano Sora RD-3400GS
>>932293
Are you mentally challenged?
It means the max size for the small cog is 14, and the min size for the small cog is 11, the max size for the big cog is 32, and the min size for the big cog is 25. That means it will accept anything between a 14-25 to a 11-32. It won't accept a 11-23, it won't accept a 15-25, it won't accept a 11-34.
>>932377
>RD-3400GS
Half a thank you. The specs say nothing of the sort. You get the second half a thanks when you provide what you were asked, and not just half of it.
>pic related
>standing at a redlight
>someone says "hey nice bike"
Whats the proper way to respond?
>>932461
>>932461
'thanks'
>>932464
'You too'
Why is there a serious lack of quality front lowrider racks? It seems that tubus is no longer stocking their racks. What gives?
>>932461
'I know'
>>932461
IT'S A ROOOADOOOO RESSSSEEEER! YOU FAG!
How should road bike handlebars be set up?
I have mine at a slight downwards angle because it feels more comfortable but it looks a bit wrong.
>>932612
There really is no "standard" way, especially since drop handlebars come in all different shapes and sizes, and brifters do too. As long as the brake levers point close to straight down and the handlebars are something near horizontal along the hood sections you wont get any weird looks.
pic related is probably the highest and lowest you would want to set them if you are concerned about looking normal, but really comfort is most important.
>>932369
>>932380
Do you mean an 11-32t cassette, or 32t chainring and 11t sprocket? if you mean cassette, neither of those can handle a sprocket that big (note: largest sprocket 27t).
If you mean 32t chainring 11t sprocket, no road bike RD will ever support that extreme level of crosschaining and you shouldnt want it to.
>>932616
Thank you for the pic and the explanation:3
how much of lateral play should a chain have? mine stretches pretty far outward and i am not sure if this is right, will deliver a pic if needed
>>932638
Tons, and tons. You wouldn't be able to shift if the derailleur couldn't bend the chain.
>>932612
It does. There are handlebars that slope down towards the hoods for us people who find that more comfortable. Both classic and ergo.
Angling a modern standard, compact, low reach, flat top bar down is not acceptable.
>>932666
I feel like all drop bars do this if the drops are parallel to ground as shown in your pic
>>932687
Not the ones currently in fashion, no.
I'll ask this here, sorry for kind of offtopic but... how long could it take me to ride my bike for 50 miles? is it possible me not being fit at all? google maps doesn't even want to give me a route...
>>932698
An afternoon. Assuming good weather and reasonable surface conditions.
>>932698
Depends on a lot of things, but I'd expect 5 hours tops, you can go 10mph on a bike with no more effort than walking. Are you healthy enough to walk for a few hours? If so you should be able to ride 50 miles at a slow pace. Drink plenty of water and bring a snack.
As far as bike fit, there should be a bend I the elbows when on the hoods. Right? I bought a 90s road bike off cl and think it's too big. My arms are fully extended and create strain on my triceps.
>>932762
Furthermore, I could fix this with a shorter reach quill stem. Any recommendations? There's like a billion choices on amazon
>>932768
NOS 3T, Cinelli or Nitto. But unless you have to worlds longest stem on there new (quills tended to be short by modern standards) you have the wrong size bike. That's what you get for gettig carried away on CL. Sell it and buy one the right size.
>>932776
no that will just shift his pain from the arms to his knees
Soup /n/, /o/ here.
I want to get a bike. I don't want a strict MTB and I don't want a strict road bike so I think a Hybrid or Cyclocross style would suit my needs best. But there's a problem. I'm a manlet. 5'7". I think a 17" (43cm) frame is what I'm need but it seems my main choice (Boardman CX Comp) starts at 19" (50cm). Are there any recommendable Hybrids/Cyclos in a smaller size?
>>932797
48-52 is about right for you. Depends on geometry and your inseam. You can't just translate mountainbike sizing to road.
>>932821
Well I've got an old old old town bike (Raleigh Esquire) that's 19" and even with the seat right down I can barely get my feet on the floor.
>>932836
Measure your inseam (floor to taint) and then check the standover height listed under the bikes geometry (any decent brand should list it). That's how you work out if you'll be able to touch the ground without squashing your nuts on the top tube.
why dont big manufacturers make rigid mtbs anymore?
>>932836
nice b8
>>932844
they do it's called "adventure bike" now
when should I clean my gears and chain, and how?
is tube talc a meme?
what real differences are there between different tires?
>>932855
1 When you ddem them too dirty, or slight before they start to squeak
2 Tubes are a long lived meme. The future is tubeless.
3 Everything. Grip, rolling resistence, puncture resistence. durability and weight. Good tyres is the most cost efficient upgrade you can ever do to any bike.
>>932855
Since you didn't get your talc question answered - somewhat yes. It can make removing an old tube easier, that's about it.
>>932855
>what are the real differences between tyres
Here are some actual numbers:
http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews?b=continental&max=23&min=9&minpr=8&maxweight=399
Scroll down to the graphs and take note of Ultra Sport II's values. Note that those are usually the cheapest tyres one can find and draw your own conclusions.
>>932901
>smooth small diameter drum tests
Contis tend to rate high on those tests because of the black chili compound
>>932907
That's why I tried to filter the results to only one brand (conti), idk if it worked for you when you clicked through though
>>932907
Only two of the tyres in that result are BC tyres. The GP4000sII and the GPTT.
>>932917
Well the point is Conti rubbers tend to do well on roller tests, because Germans (Conti and TOUR mag) have a thing for roller tests.
>>932788
I understand now. I based my bike size off of sheer height. Now I will factor in my in seam and arm length etc. I thing a 54 is the best for me. Pretty sure I have a 58cm now.
>>932921
You are implying that the roller tests are not an appropriate real world analogue and that relative test results do not carry over to road conditions. Basis for this please?
I could see a theoretical bias favouring very thin sidewall tyres over thin tread due to a shortening of the contact patch, but I don't think that effect would even be measurable.
The miniscule differences in contact patch shape due to the curved surface affect all tyres, so please explain why you think Conti specifically is unjustly favoured by this method.
The razor suggests Conti simply make well rolling tyres.
>>932951
There's the small diameter, but the other big factor is rollers are smooth.
>>932855
>when should I clean my gears and chain, and how?
When they get dirty. I like Dumonde Citrus Solvent. Just be aware that it smells good which means little kids and pets might try to lick it, so don't leave any rags soaked in it lying around and clean up any spills.
After cleaning, lube your chain. Let the lube sit for 10 minutes then wipe it off (the lube just has to sink into the internals of the chain links, you want to wipe off the lube that remains on the outside of the chain).
>>932955
I use that shit to wash my dick. Works every time.
>>932953
Says who? I've seen photos of the things covered with all sorts of surfaces an unevenness. Not to mention it still affects all tyres the same. It's not like they bring out the smooth roller as soon as they're about to test a Conti tyre...
>>932957
Diamond plate steel is not representative of an actual road surface. It's better than a perfectly smooth one, but it's not equivalent to a road.
>>932951
>The razor suggests Conti simply make well rolling tyres.
Yes, they magically make tires that are unexplainably better rolling than the competition even with lower TPI counts. Occam's razor, it's magic. Perfect explanation. You do realize if you use the razor it has to be an actual and complete explanation, not just magic.
>>932960
>diamond plate
Has never been up for discussion.
>>932961
Actually, the razor is used to choose between two scenarios. In this case they are:
1 Tests are accurate and Conti make some good tyres (in their German production line)
2 All rolling resistence tests are faked in a giant conspiracy involving people from all over the world, just to favour Continental for reasons unexplained
Occam would favour the first explaination. He would not even enter a discussion with someone who thinks TPI is directly related to rolling resistence and more than width is. That is, yes, it's a factor. And yes, highter TPI tyres should roll better _all_else_equal_. Just as wider tyres should roll better, all else equal. As we keep seeing, all else is not equal and the law of diminishing returns apply. And a 320 TPI Conti tyre rolling better than pretty much anything is not proof of conspiracy.
>>932972
That's a bullshit explanation, and you seem to fail to comprehend what was being said.
>1 Tests are accurate and Conti make some good tyres (in their German production line)
Tests are accurate for what they test. Rolling resistance on drums.
>2 All rolling resistence tests are faked in a giant conspiracy involving people from all over the world, just to favour Continental for reasons unexplained
They're not faked, other companies just make more supple and more grippy tires. Contis have never been known for their handling characteristics or ride quality. They shot up in popularity when TOUR did their RR test, and they have good flat protection, good mileage, and decent weight, making them a good all around training and racing tire if you can afford them.
>And a 320 TPI Conti tyre rolling better than pretty much anything is not proof of conspiracy.
You're going full retard by claiming Contis being designed to roll well on lab tests, then doing well on lab tests, is a conspiracy. You have some crazy ass leap of logic to make it a conspiracy. Also Conti 320 TPI isn't actually 320 TPI.
You're almost as bad as the Schwalbe shill.
>>932979
How would you even build a tyre that rolls well on a drum test but only on a drum test?
>>932980
I can't tell if you're being purposefully retarded. Conti tires roll well on and off drums, but they're geared towards optimizing unrealistic drum test performance rather than actual performance in real use. That's because it's the most precise and repeatable way to measure tires, even if it isn't the most accurate because what it measures is slightly different from real life. TOUR also does their testing this way, and Conti knows much of their popularity is due to the independent 3rd party tests at TOUR so it only makes sense to optimize their tires so they come out on top of the TOUR test.
They aren't bad tires, they're very good tires, but the claimed rolling resistance advantage is smoke and mirrors. Conti uses TOUR's testing as marketing material, so they make tires that prioritize testing well rather than riding well. Conti also basically lies about the TPI, they measure TPI in a way no other manufacturer does, by counting 3 plies of materials in an inch. It's marketing.
It's like how VW can engineer a car to do well on emissions testing when the emissions are completely different in actual use. Germans love technical tests, and they know how to cheat and fudge technical numbers.
>>932989
And again, how do you propose one "optimize" a tyre to roll best in class, but only on a bench test?
WV had computers to recognize a test cycle and the resistence of the probe in the exhaust, but how do you propose you build that kind of situational awareness into a piece of rubber?
And all this theoretical posturing to protect your pet theory that one or two Conti moderls don't roll as well as tests indicate. You have not provided one shred of evidence to the contrary, but mythos and 'common wisdom'.
Why would it butthurt you so much if the GP4k and One realy were the top rollers?
>>933002
I told you already. Contis focus on compounds tests better on rollers than it does in real life. The compound makes a bigger difference on rollers than an actual road.
>>933003
Intredasting.
If completely devoid of any substance.
/BQG/, I'm looking to get clipless pedals and shoes. are they mostly universal? or what? I'm not really sure where to start with my search, any help is appreciated.
>>933005
A solid rubber tire would perform well on a roller drum test.
OK, /n/, I keep hearing that my rim brakes will eventually destroy my wheel rim.
How do I know when this will happen?
my front wheel rim is deeply grooved,the brake pad is now pressing into a groove as wide as the formerly flat rim, and about 1/4" deep.
The original rim wall can't have been this thick, I assume the rim wall is pressed into this shape.
When can I expect disaster?
And what's going to actually happen?
>>933017
Your rim has already failed structually. Worst case the tyre (and possibly rim side wall) come off while you're riding. You'll then likely hurt yourself.
Rims usualy have wear indicators in the form of a groove or hole, that when worn away signals urgent rim replacement.
>>933017
Sounds like the side wall of the rim has been worn so thin that it's been bent outwards at the bead seat by the force of the inflated tyre. If that is the case then eventually the bead seat is going to tear away from the rest of the rim and the tyre will come off, worst case scenario is you die.
>>933019
>Worst case the tyre (and possibly rim side wall) come off while you're riding.
>tyre
>tyre
>tyre
>>933020
>bent outwards at the bead seat by the force of the inflated tyre
>tyre
>tyre
>tyre
Could I get an answer from someone who ISN'T British?
I mean seriously, it's got to be 2 am there.
What kind of spergs am I dealing with?
>>933024
3:33 to be precise. I'm watching James Mays Toy Stories instead of sleeping the last few hours before work. And I'm not even brittish.
>>933026
>33
>34:54
Brit time zones are fucked up
>>933024
Why does our nationality matter? I'm always up until about 3 in the morning, then I wake up at about 11 and go to work at 3 in the afternoon. I'm essentially like a quarter of a day behind regular people.
>>933026
My clocks haven't changed yet, I don't know why they don't just simplify shit and do it at midnight.
>>933031
Captch calamity. Still not brittish. ← Important. Does not want to be confused with brexit brixit. Decent teeth too.
>>933034
Changing it at midnight will fuck things up. Public transportation usually ends service at 1. Changing it at 12 causes uncertainty.
>>933008
There's several types. Pedals and cleats are sold together. When you get shoes you have to make sure they are compatible with the cleats. There are "mountain" style and "road" style. And then there's Speedplay which are different than normal road pedals (but road shoes are often compatible with both Speedplays and standard road cleats). My recommendation is go to a LBS and try on some shoes, see what ones fit you well. I like Bontrager shoes a lot. For pedals look into Speedplay, Look, and Time. Speedplay are my favorite for road cycling.
so i have an old 90s road bike and last summer the rear derailleur got busted. I needed new one fast, so i bought some shitty derailleur meant for mountains bikes. Now i want to replace that one but i cant seem to find any proper ones.
It needs to be friction and i would prefer silver with some old school vibe to it, so it matches rest of the bike.
Anyone have any recommendations?
>>933174
Just buy a Shimano Sora that's what I did
Sure it's not old school but at least you're buying a brand new component that will last forever if you take care of it, compared to some second-hand vintage shit you could buy off eBay which will break in exactly the same way in one to two years' time.
Soras cost like £20 - £30 I think.
>>933178
Sora seems nice, would cost 40 euros for me but only problem is that i cant seem to find it in silver. My current derailleur is black and it is so out of its place in my bike that im not even considering black one.
>>933174
>so i have an old 90s road bike and last summer the rear derailleur got busted. I needed new one fast, so i bought some shitty derailleur meant for mountains bikes. Now i want to replace that one but i cant seem to find any proper ones.
I would search ebay for a used one. You can get a Shimano 600 (105 equivalent) for $25
>>933174
Friction shifting is a function of the shifters, not the derailer.
If you're dead set on being vintagey, I'd go with Suntour Cyclone (3rd gen or older) or Superbe Pro. But, as the other guy said, it would be best to just get a Sora/Claris RD in silver finish. It'll be cheaper than going vintage and will work vastly better.
>>933180
Claris is all-silver.
>>933184
>>933186
I have no intention to buy vintage derailleur, what i meant was i dont want it to look extremely modern (or black) like you get on most new road bikes.
pic related, I like the sora, it has some resemblance to older ones but still has some modern twist and it would look nice in my bike. But dura ace (i know its in totally different price level but you get the point) is way too modern lookin for my bike.
That being said anyone know where to buy silver sora in europe?
Can a bent axle make my chain slip/change gears ? Also the freewheel is not moving parallel to the wheel.
Anyone in Vienna, Austria that could help me ?
>>933206
forgot: It's an old Puch bike, "Supersport" or some shit like that. I got it as a present and want to bring it back to life.
>>933206
The axle doesn't spin, so no. You probably just need a new freewheel because the bearings are shot, but take it apart and inspect before you order anything. Don't spend more than the old bike is worth - meaning pocket shrapnel.
>>933194
4600 Tiagra looks just like the Sora, but silver. Do not buy 4700 if you want to run it indexed. Different cable pull ratio.
https://www.bike-components.de/en/Shimano/Tiagra-Schaltwerk-RD-4601-10-fach-p33074/
>>933206
Puch was good when Bianchi made the Frames
Would it be stupid and fred-like to replace the flat bars on my 26er commuter MTB with drop bars? I haven't seen this done before.
>>933222
Not if done right. Look at Ragley Luxy, On-One Midge and Salsa Woodchipper bars.
![10002842_1217231994955425_1663516500_n[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/AjXr9Pk.jpg "10002842_1217231994955425_1663516500_n[1].jpg")
>>933217
Hmm, because it's definitely bent, i removed the wheel the other day. When I spin the axle with one hand, it's movement is eccentric on the other side.
I guess it could be both the axle and the freewheel. What should I look for in the freewheel ?
And, If I use the opportunity and install a freewheel with more (than 5) wheels, would I need a new chain for +2 gears?
Writing that, the best thing to do would be to find a whole new wheel.
>>933230
Thank you so much, anon. I never knew about these bars. I was thinking of a stache bar before, but those you mentioned can take cross levers which is something I would like.
I'm going to be riding next to the ocean. Should I worry about the steel frame rusting out on my current bike, or should I buy an aluminum bike for beach cruising?
>>933245
>twine
THIS MEME NEEDS TO DIE
No I don't care what lovely bike says about twine, your attempt to make your bike look crude and old timey is retarded. Twine comes from the assumption that crude equals old fashioned, equals time tested and classic. That's bullshit. It's just ugly and crude.
Back then they had a more refined way of doing bar tape. They started from the center of the bars and wrapped them to the ends, then stuck the ends in with bar plugs. There is no need for pvc tape, twine or anything else to hold the tape at the center of the bars. pvc tape came around with thicker foam bar tapes, because the thickness, the springiness, the stretch, the flex etc make it matter which way you wrap the tape because it can peel and lift up and the seams are more noticeable in one direction than the other. This is why foam tapes are wrapped from the bar end to the bard enter, and finished with tape. Twine is a retarded way to replicate this method of wrapping and pvc tape with an crude old timey material.
Twine is not authentic, it's not period accurate, it's a modern method based on modern tapes, and all it does is emphasize your attempts to affect old timeiness with what you think looks old fashioned. Fabric tapes should be wrapped center to ends. No need for any inelegant finishing tape or twine.
I've worked on a few vintage bikes with leather wraps, and it seems like they wrapped the bars starting at the top and worked their way down.
Why don't we still wrap handlebars that way? I'm sure some people still do, but it seems like the vast majority don't. Wrapping from the top down eliminates the need for tape and looks much cleaner, imo.
Is it that much harder to do? Does it only work with leather or something?
>>933278
If you do top down you have the edge of the tape on the top, not a problem with thinner tape but the thicker stuff will leave a lip that would curl over as your hands rub against it (as they apply a downwards force).
>>933281
So the switch to wrapping bottom up is mostly due to the movement toward thicker cork tape?
In that case, if you were to buy thinner tape (leather or lizard skins) and do a good job wrapping, going top down is still a viable choice?
>>933288
Sure. If you did want a thicker grip/more padding I suppose you could double up, with a thinner tape over the top that covers the lip of the thicker tape underneath.
>>933278
You could have literally read the post right above yours
>>933294
Fair.
I've also been wandering about twine. Did bikes back in the olden days really use twine?
Is there any place with info regarding the quality of brands and their products? With graphs or ratings.
Not reviews though.
I recently scraped my right crank against a curb, and about a week later my roadie has developed a creak when I ride out of the seat or put the power down. There doesn't appear to be any cracks in the carbon and I've tightened the chainring bolts.
What else can I do? it's really killing my riding enjoyment.
>>933313
If you have a pressfit BB, it's a cup slightly out of alignment.
>>933275
Rivbike has set us back so far. Nearly every product the push is shit
Grant did a post last year about how unhealthy it is to ride your bike for too long. He's all paleo/HIIT dork now. His bstone legendary bikes were retarded too. Burn it all down
>>933222
No it's cool if you get the fit right. A few old MTB heroes did it and won races on them
Google "dirt drops" for some ideas
My experience is you'll want a very stubby stem for the conversion. Also look up the bikeforums thread "vintage MTB drop bar conversions" it's got a ton of good examples
Can be a pricy job though.. Look up brake compatibility. Long pull road levers for v brakes exist. Shifters are a pain
Bar end shifters are the most common choice for the conversion.
Canti brakes work with standard road levers but they aren't as easy to set up as v brakes,
>>933338
>2015
>low carb diet
Jesus even his diet advice is retrogrouchy
>>933340
His book is called Eat Bacon, Jog Less and he wants you to buy a $3,000 steel fop wagon that you ride for three miles at a time, max
>>933343
50 year old blue pill edgelord says cantilevers are good enough. How about some ethically sourced cork grips (twine and lacquer required for installation, sold seperately). PS you are the specialest snowflake of them all!!!!
>>933344
>he believe redpills
Grant Petersen is a reactionary selling redpills.
>>933346
He's steel pill
>>933347
ironpill + garbon = steelpill
>>933344
>edgelord
can millennials stop using that word? that and hipster. it's beyond meaningless at this point.
>>933338
If you ride your bike for tons of miles expecting to lose weight, you're going to wind up being really surprised at how it doesn't work due to the increased intake you'll need to provide your body with fuel and keep it from burning muscle. The most effective ways of burning fat and gaining muscle on bicycles are sprints and hill reps.
The longass rides are best for building endurance. I dunno about it being unhealthy, unless you fuck up on the nutrition side of things during the ride and start burning muscle.
>>933340
It's basically paleo with less fruits, because fruits are sugar bombs. Nothing special. And jogging sucks dick. If you like jogging fuck off to slowtwitch.
>>933370
>paleo
pls go durianshit
>>933372
nigga I'm the furthest from paleo in the world. I eat like a garbage can. My caloric intake for Sunday was a pint of gelato. I'm a fat slut in a cyclist's body.
>>933372
>getting mad at internet strangers for using the accepted term for a fad because you don't like the fad
or as tumblr calls it, getting triggered
>>933370
You mean it's basically Atkins
![bike-3[1].png](https://i.imgur.com/FodgMlW.png "bike-3[1].png")
How do i know i'm buying a good bike?
I'm willing to spend ~$1000 and get something good to ride around the city, i don't give a fuck about mountain biking etc. and know literally nothing about bikes.
Basically I want a smooth, quick, lightweight ride. Does brand really matter? I'm pretty fucking lost here, any recommendations and/or reading material you could point me to would be great.
I bought a old trek road bike frame as a project. It doesn't have built in down tube shifter bosses, however, it dies have a mount on the underside of the downtube. Where could I find a downtube shifter ckamp/mount?
>>933391
Ebay. Or you can get an ugly problem solvers cable guide
Figure out the diameter of your tube if you're going ebay. Search "downtube shifter mount"
>>933338
What about their stache bars? They seem pretty decent. Sadly they discontinued the original model, all they have is albatross now.
>>933417
Some love them, most don't
Apparently this is the only way to make them bearable
>>933417
This is just kinda sad
1993
>>933417
Pretty awful. They're for people who want drop bars but also don't want drop bars. It give them something sort of like drop bars but not drop bars.
>>933387
>Does brand really matter?
At that price, not especially. Generally speaking, the price level of bikes is tiered according to material and then groupset. The most common materials for racers are aluminum and carbon, with the former being cheaper than the latter. Titanium is less common and is very expensive, as is lightweight CrMo. With groupsets it's pretty straightforward, the higher-level the groupset, the more expensive the bike is. This is a decentish guide to groupsets that gives you an idea of heirarchy, although annoyingly it doesn't show weights:
http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/videos/cycling-tech/road-bike-groupsets-buyers-guide
At your price level, paying full retail, you're looking at an aluminum bike with Sora. At this time of year, there are still some 2015 models left, so you have an outside chance of getting something like a 2015 Cannondale CAAD10 105 or Bianchi Impulso 105 for around $1K. If you're really lucky, you could find something like this: https://www.westernbikeworks.com/product/felt-bicycles-2015-z75-road-bike
I'm actually kinda tempted to get the 54cm one even tho it's maybe a bit small for me and I swore to hold off on dick brake rode biek until Campy comes out with their system.
>>933393
I wish more people knew about this brand. The times I have been told something can't be done by some loser who can't even change his own inner tube on cycling forums .....when problem solvers has a part specifically for it...
>>933387
Salsa Vaya
All-City Macho Man
All-City Space Horse
Kona Dew Plus
Marin Muirwoods 29er
Specialized Sirrus
Trek FX
Probably the first few on the list if you want smooth, quick, lightweight. That or an old ten speed road bike from Craigslist. >>>/n/bbg could help you pick one out.
Consider getting something compatible with a rear rack in case you ever want that option.
Brand sometimes matter. Cheap shit like Schwinn, Huffy, Magna, etc should be avoided at all costs. All the "real" brands (big or small) are about equal in quality. Marin, Kona, Specialized, Giant, Trek, Raleigh, Bianchi, Surly, Salsa, All-City, Cannondale, etc are all good.
>>933387
Do NOT buy a bike from a department store (Target, Walmart, etc). Everything they carry is pure shit. Go to a bike shop, test ride some bikes, see what you like. You can always go test ride some, see what you like, then ask on /n/ about whatever bikes you liked most and get our opinion on those models.
>>933438
Where does Fuji rank?
>>933426
Probably one of the greatest bikes ever made. Sadly, the closest thing you get to that geometry and wheel size on the market now is the Surly LHT, which is mediocre at best.
>>933449
BOBs are literally worse than Freds.
>>933453
>BOBs
Pardon my ignorance, but I have never heard of that acronym until now. What is a BOB?
>>933455
Bridgestone Owner's Bunch.
>>933444
They're ok. The Roubaix is a good bike.
>>933438
>recommending all-city to someone who wants lightweight
>recommending the dew plus and specialized sirrus to someone who clearly wants a racing bike
>recommending an OTS for someone who is new to cycling and wants lightweight
dude
why
>>933050
Thanks for the help!
>>933475
he's talking about the old fuji hi ten 10'speeds
i don't think they even had a model name just "fuji bike" sold at jcpenny back in the day
Can you please put bqg somewhere in the thread title in future, I'm a retard and kept missing this thread.
Standard hydrocarbon degreaser from your hardware store ok to use on your bike?
Sup /n/. I'm a bike newb, I got my little Decathlon MTB and I'm having fun with it.
Now, it was a used bicycle, so I want to take care of it properly and figure out any hiccups it might have gone through before they become issues (even though the bicycle is cheap, even if the whole drivetrain exploded it wouldn't be a huge hit)
I already tried cleaning my chain once, but the shitty muc-off degreaser I bought has a fucking absurd strawberry-like scent that I cannot stand, it really sucks dicks, never buying anything else from that brand.
The question is: next time, I want to try using WD 40. Now, I know it's not a lubricant, but is it actually harmful for the bicycle if I spray it lightly on the cassette and chain to get grime out, pedal a bit to get most of it off, then wash with water and apply chain lube? Wouldn't it penetrate well and let me clean the whole thing easily?
I've heard it's very nasty on brake pads, but other than that, do I risk it eating the derailer or some shit?
>>933529
I dunno about shitty hi ten bikes, but Fuji made some really nice bikes back in the day, using Tange tubing and whatnot. In the 70s, the Newest was a nice bike, and in the 80s...man, if I could find a pristine '86 Opus III with full Superbe Pro, the seller could gouge the fuck out of me. Especially if it has that swagged out pink saddle and housings. He'd see me drooling like a retard and jack the price up by hundreds of bux and I wouldn't notice.
>>933437
They are the company that make Sheldon's Fender Nuts for those of us whose fork is recessed where the caliper brake bolts on. I couldn't have mounted my fender without it, so thank goodness for PS
[but god damn do they tax you--$15 US for a pack of 2 different length nuts, only one of which you need. I get that's how the market works, but the set of 2 fenders with the stays and a giant bag of hardware was only like $60 - 65]
>>933670
my mom had an Opus III that she never rode. It was swagged out. I still have the Eclipse pannier set that she bought for it and never used.
>>931745
I heard the franken-freewheels have poor shifting characteristics. Look up reviews before you buy so you know what you're getting into.
>>933676
>she never rode
>>933681
yeah, it was stupid. she was a real regular rider and something happened to that bike, so she got a great bike thinking she would get back into it but she was older and in a different city….
she sold it after a few years Q_Q
generally speaking , what's lighter
650B wheels with 42mm tires
or
700C wheels with 23mm tires
(or whatever will give an equeal diameter)
>>933623
>The question is: next time, I want to try using WD 40. Now, I know it's not a lubricant, but is it actually harmful for the bicycle if I spray it lightly on the cassette and chain to get grime out, pedal a bit to get most of it off, then wash with water and apply chain lube?
Yes it is harmful. Chains some with lubricant embedded in the pins. If you spray with WD40, you could remove it and shorten the chain life a lot
Invest in some real chain lube.
I just got this. It cleans the chain while lubing. It's weird but well regarded
http://www.amazon.com/Rock-N-Roll-Gold-Chain-Lube-4oz/dp/B000QU8CGI
>>933716
700C wheels with 23mm tires. 650B rims are heavy, because they're mostly made in MTB strength, or retro box rim designs. 23mm tires also are easy to get lightweight versions of, because it's a standard racing size. For 650B, you'd have to buy Hetre ELs, which even with a thin casing, aren't light.
>>933720
interesting !
but what if , hypothetically speaking , the tires where exact same model , just bigger and the rims where basically the same , just down sized , and maybe slightly wider to accomodate the bigger tires ?
>>933719
>Invest in some real chain lube.
I already did. I just need a good cleaner, seems that any degreaser could kill the lube in the pins, so I dunno what to think.
Searching for proof is hell, too, as you'll find a 50/50 split of people that swear by wd40, and people who said it doesn't work without bringing tangible proof, or by just bringing up "it's not a lube" which is obvious and shouldn't be used as lube.
I guess I'll experiment, my chain will be changed in the next three months anyways.
>I just got this.
seems like that brand isn't present in my country :< (Italy)
>>933716
That's almost impossible to answer considering the wide range of rim and tire weights.
But let's do mid-tier.
Velocity A23:
> 700c - 450g
> 650b - 420g
Schwalbe Supremes
> 700c x 32mm - 380 g
> 650b x 40mm - 470 g
Even comparing 700x32c to 650x40c I'm getting a weight savings in the 700c. Safe to say 23c would be lighter in general
>>933730
>I already did. I just need a good cleaner, seems that any degreaser could kill the lube in the pins, so I dunno what to think.
I follow this advise.... remove the chain and wipe off everything with paper towels, then lube.
You can drop the cassette in some Simple Green or spray with WD40 I guess. Derailleur is fine to clean with paper towels.
I don't think the pin lube is the end of the world. I have cleaned them in simple green baths and probably destroyed them. I don't care. I don't clean enough. It ruins the fun
>>933726
Rubber is heavy. Air doesn't even count against wheel weight. The larger wheel would have more air (longer spokes) and less rubber. The smaller wheel would be less air and more rubber.
>>933726
A VO 650B rim is 550g. 700c is 570g. It's not strictly proportional because the eyelets and the joining pin have weights too, not just the extrusion.
A Pasela PT 700x23 weighs 250g. A Pasela PT 650x42 weighs 480g.
The spokes are just a little shorter. So a fat tired 650B wheel and tire combo is ~200g more than 700c with skinny tires.
>>933623
>I want to try using WD 40
Please, fucking please, be a troll.
Get Dumonde Citrus Solvent. Clean your drive train with that. Then lube the chain (not the cassette or anything else, only lube the chain), let lube sit 10 minutes, then wipe it off. The lube sinks into the chain links during that 10 minutes, you want to wipe off the chain after because there's no need to have lube on the outside, it just attracts dirt.
Also keep in mind the solvent that you use to clean your bike smells good so kids and pets might try to lick it up so don't leave any spills or rags soaked in solvent lying around if you have kids or pets.
Also, replace your chain from time to time. If you stop by a local bike shop and ask, they'll measure it for free and tell you if it's stretched enough to be replaced (0.75% stretch is when it should be replaced). Replacing your chain when it reaches this level of stretch prolongs the live of your other components and ultimately saves you money and effort. This will typically be after 1,000-3,000 miles of riding depending on various factors.
>>933719
>>933739
>this trolling
>water and citrus degreaser
WD-40 is a far kinder degreaser than either of those, because there's no water, ever. WD stands for water displacement. The solvent fully evaporates and only leaves light oil, instead of moisture that will rust the innards of your chain and prevent lube from penetrating.
>>933743
>moisture that will rust the innards of your chain and prevent lube from penetrating.
I always put my chain in the toaster oven after I degrease it. evaporates all the water. the heat should help the lube penetrate better, too.
>>933765
And most people don't. Even if you do, it might still leave the non water component of the degreaser in the chain.
>>933768
>>933768
>And most people don't.
that's why I mentioned it. as a helpful tip
>it might still leave the non water component of the degreaser in the chain.
ya. doesn't seem to have affected performance or chain life in my experience, though. I'll get right on with implementing the double-blind scientific experiment with a control group, but I'm waiting on funding.
FWIW, I think your use of WD40 as a degreaser but not a lube is correct, but I'd rather not breathe in aerosolized hydrocarbons, nor release them into the environment. not to mention my apartment. so Simple Green and a toaster oven is for me. You do it however you want.
So I swapped out both my front and rear brakesets (cantilever) on my old 90's mtb. The old brakes had some sort of spacers to where it mounts on the bike brake mounts. I noticed after installing them that the new pair has some play when I wiggle it back and forth, even with the screws tight. Is this safe to ride? The old spacers are removable but they are about 1mm, which is too thick to use it with the new brakes.
I'm getting this bike tomorrow for $200 dlls. Is this a good deal?
>>933929
lolno
that thing retailed for maybe $500 in 2008
even a high end 2008 MTB is just about worthless now, never mind one that's barely a step above BSO
>>933929
>$xx dllrs
Mexican please go. If $ is confusing to you because of Pesos, use USD like every other country that can't easily type '$'
Thoughts on cube?
Thinking of buying this
I have an idea.
1.Buy a bigger frame
2.Put the stem facing the rider
3.Put a long bullhorn or inversed drop on the stem.
Thoughts?
>>931551
is 25 miles (round trip) a jeans kind of distance? or should i get something more suitable
>>933670
>quad-butted
>>933982
it would probably handle like shit
>>933982
>put stem backwards so centre of gravity is shifted to the outside of the turn
anon, you vapid little shit
So, gonna buy my first helmet soon. My head measurement is about 59cm, and I was looking at this guy here: Abus Scraper 2 (I just don't like the look of most bicycle helmets and this looked normal enough with a lot of head coverage, from a decent brand and with a low pricetag.)
I don't ride competitive stuff so even if its not super ventilated it's no biggie. So far I've been doing light trails and commuting, all under 20km.
sooo the question: I see two sizes, 54-58cm and 58-62cm. Which one should I get? I have a fairly round shaped head. If I go bigger won't it slowly wear on me and feel too loose?
I'm getting some neck pain, which I suspect is due to the fact that I wear glasses, so whenever I try to get really low, I can't keep my head down and roll just my eyes up to see the road ahead, I have to keep my whole head up so I'm not just looking over the top of my glasses and seeing a blur. Anybody else dealing with an issue like this?
what is the skinniest tire i can put on 26 inch mtb rims? I had some knobby 26x2.somethings on there before and now i have 26x1.5 commuter hybrid slicks but i want to go thinner so i can get used to the skinnier tire since im building up a road bike
any thoughts/links?
>>934069
does it have an adjustable strap to change the size? if not don't buy it, that should be pretty standard helmet tech at this time. Imo that helmet looks like what they strap onto retards so they don't hurt themselves
"a lot of head coverage" that really doesn't matter as much as you think, most helmets cover more than they seem like they do just because they come out from the head a bit, theres really no time on a bike when you're going to hit the lower side of the back side of your head where THAT helmet would be more beneficial than a regular, normal looking helmet. And i know you THINK ventilation is "no biggie" but i GUARANTEE on any warmer day you're going to sweating your nuts off under something like that. Ventilation is extremely important, so is weight. Don't underestimate how much heavier something like that is going to be
>>934069
Measure your head. If you don't have measuring tape you can use a string, wrap it around your head then lay the string out flat so you can measure with a ruler.
>>934070
I have the very same issue and wear glasses with unfashionably large lenses to help with it. Neck comfort when getting low requires a perfect stem/bar positioning. What you'll specifically adjust depends on your specific bike/bars/fit, but some first steps would be to consider a slightly longer stem, or rolling the bars back slightly, so that your shoulders aren't rolled so far forward when you're in an aggressive posture.
>>934074
Depends on your rim width - consult the chart showing rim width to tire width compatability on Sheldon Brown's site.
>>934070
is your vision really THAT bad that you can't see well enough without your glasses to just "deal with it"? do what the other anon said and consider getting some glasses with large lenses. Even if they look goofy just wear them while riding your bike
>>934075
I just figured out the pic is wrong. Derp.
This is the one. In white I think because it's easier to spot, but I'll decide later.
http://www.abus.com/eng/Mobile-Security/Bike-Safety-and-Security/Helmets/Urban/Scraper-v.2/%28variant%29/37262
I guess I'll go for the larger size.
>>934077
>Measure your head.
Did you read the post?
>>934082
whoops.
If your head measures 59, then you need the 58-62 size. The 54-58 size will always be uncomfortably small, don't overthink this.
>tfw want a bike
>don't wanna pay like $500
>all the bikes on craigslist are rusted 80s bikes that niggers in Cleveland stole or $1000
>bike shops charge $300 more than online
rip my health
>>934082
Just get a Bern Allston. I had it for 2 years now, worked as a bike messenger for 1 year in it, and I live in a really hot country so the ventilation is good and it's pretty comfy. It also doesn't make you look like a lycracore homosexual.
Heyy any idea how you get his little bastard off? Is it square taper with a dust cap on it or what? Cheers.
>>934091
Thats a standard fixed cup for a square taper bottom bracket, you need a wrench that fits it - and don't forget that it's reverse-threaded.
>>934090
it makes you look like a messenger hipster faggot
becuz u are
>>934091
I've used big adjustable wrenches on these without any issues. Probably not a good idea but yolo
>>934074
I've got a set of Paselas at 26x1.25
I'm sure there is smaller option, but inflated on the narrow rims I have these are more like 30c
skinwall is nice too
Not sure if you want to go narrower than that on a MTB rim. There is a limit based on rim width
>>934090
Anyone know how to measure for TPI on bottom bracket cups? Trying to convert my 1972 raleigh super course to a campy NR BB. Can't tell if it's 24tpi or 26tpi.
>>934148
You use a TPI measuring tool.
