/bqg/ - Bike Questions General
Ok boys
Years ago, when I was still living and working in the suburbs, I bought a bike off a german intern who was going back home.
It's really nice for the suburbs because you can ride on the sidewalks. The tires on this bike are like pencil thin.
Now I've moved a few miles west to Chicago, and holy fuck it's almost impossible to ride on some streets
The sheer amount of pot holes and shitty infrastructure make it so I have to contest with cars on main streets because my bike is too suburban
So my question is: what do i do? The bike is worth like 300 bucks I can't just throw it away and get something else.
Or do I cut my losses and hope a hipster on craigslit would want it?
And for those of you who bike in the city, what kind of bike do you guys recommend?
>>944058
If you have enough clearance, you could put some wider tires on it. Something like Vittoria Randonneur Pro II or Michelin City in the 32mm-40mm width range. Just make sure you have enough clearance before buying any.
>And for those of you who bike in the city, what kind of bike do you guys recommend?
Depends. If you want something for commuting, something that can handle rough roads, etc, then something like Marin Muirwoods 29er, Kona Dew Plus, Specialized Sirrus, Trek FX, etc.
If you want something a bit faster and more aggressive, then either an old steel road bike or a modern equivilent such as Surly Pacer or All-City Space Horse, or a cyclocross bike such as Salsa Vaya, Surly Straggler, Surly Crosscheck, or All-City Macho Man.
I would STRONGLY recommend getting a bike that is compatible with a rear rack. Some of the bikes I listed above are compatible, but not all of them.
Any of those bikes should be fine with the stock parts EXCEPT potentially the tires. You'll generally want semislicks in the 30-40mm range. Some of those bikes come with good commuting tires, but some may not.
>>944065
And just to clarify, the road bikes (Pacer and Space Horse) are going to be more pavement oriented, so not really what you're looking for.
The bikes I listed before that have flat bars, they'll be good on rougher terrain, be it bumpy roads, gravel, dirt, whatever. The cyclocross bikes I listed at the end are basically the same except they have drop bars and are a bit more aggressive. They'll be a bit faster and give more hand positions, but won't be quite as stable on rough roads and also give you a lower riding position which isn't as ideal in city traffic (where you want a good range of vision, and you want to be visible to drivers, both of which suggest a higher position as provided by flat bars).
For commuting, drop bars vs flat bars really comes down to personal preference. Ride both, see what you like. I love both and I use both for commuting.
>>944058
Show us your bike at least to see if you can fit some fatter tires in there boii
>>944065
I don't think is necessary having 32-40mm tires, maybe with 25-28mm is enough, unless the roads are extremely terrible.
To the OP: Stop being a fag, man up, don't ride on the sidewalks and learn how to ride on the road, you can do it even if you ride a mamachari.
>>944108
>25-28
That's road cycling tires, m8. Even on smooth roads something like 32 is ideal for commuting. On rough roads even wider. OP is a commuter, not a roadie.
If I put iced tea in my bottles instead of water, will I be doing any harm to myself over a 100km+ ride?
I'm thinking of going to a flea market this weekend to get a shitty bike that no one wants to steal. What should I look like in a good shitty bike?
>>944117
Tea is a diuretic. Although I like sweet tea on rides, it's a better idea to buy a big bottle of lemon juice and make lemonade with electrolytes.
I just wanted to install a new chain on my commuter with a 5 spd casette and got some KMC, its factory lube is so fucking stiky that i instantly puked. any downsides about removing the sticky lube?
>>944124
Factory lube is by far superior to any lube you can apply yourself. Do not remove it. Under ideal conditions you can get 500+ miles off factory lube. Commuter conditions closer to 200 miles.
>>944126
what about just dragging it through a towel just so the outer plates aren't sticky anymore?
>>944118
Craigslist is probably a better bet. >>>/n/bbg
>>944127
Lightly wiping down the outside with degreaser is fine. The point of lube is to be inside the chain links, not on the outside (hence why you should always wipe down a chain after lubing it, just let the lube sit a few minutes first to sink in). Just don't soak it in degreaser or pour degreaser all over it because that would eat away the factory grease inside the links.
>>944128
To clarify: If you wipe it down with degreaser, you should wipe very lightly, and only have a very minimal amount of degreaser on the rag. You do NOT want any degreaser seeping into the chain links.
>>944130
Better yet, fuck the degreaser and use a volatile petrolium product instead. White spirits, WD-40, what you have around the house. And put it on the rag - not the chain.
I soaked my chain in degreaser the other day, I'll post results if my bike explodes.
You should just choose a method that works for you. Guides are just that, everyone eventually has their own preference on how to degrease and what lube to use.
>>944130
This. If you can squeeze droplets out of the rag, it's too damp.
I am thinking about buying these Chrome shoes for fall/winter/spring commuting 5 miles each way to work and back.
http://www.chromeindustries.com/storm-415-work-boot-1
They are expensive but I am tired of wet feet all winter. Can anyone recommend another shoe without cleats that is good for riding and waterproof?
>>944136
>WD40
Fuck off
>>944148
Your bike won't explode, but the degreaser probably dissolved a good portion of the grease inside your chain links, so you significantly reduced your chain's lifespan.
>>944153
But some ways are objectively better.
>tfw the LBS I work at soaks chains when bikes are brought in for a drive train clean
>tfw I told them why they shouldn't do it that way
>tfw they keep doing it that way anyway
FUCK
Alright lads, /mu/ here.
I have $300 to spend on a bike, preferably something more fit for urban terrain. What's the most /n/ bike you can recommend me?
>>944175
Sorry, we have a strict policy of not giving advice to anyone from /mu/. I really wish you had just kept that bit to yourself.
>>944176
Tell me what bike to buy and I'll lay down some super hip post-avant jazzcore ITT.
>>944175
At that price range you have to buy used. Anything new for that price will be pure shit. Craigslist is your best bet. If you are going to be riding only on pavement, like going fast, and are in decent physical shape, then a steel old ten speed road bike is your best bet. If one or more of those criteria don't fit you, then a 90s rigid mountain bike with semislicks (NOT slicks, people that say slicks are just meme-obsessed faggots; semislicks are better in this case). Post in >>>/n/bbg for more advice
What helmet brand/model do you guys swear by? I'm looking at a Giro Revel (w/ visor so it doesn't look goofy), it's $45 online so I'm hoping it's not like $60 at the LBS. Need to try it on first, don't want to look like a dick walking out to buy online.
>>944170
I've been using the chain for 5 years now so it'll probably be time to change it soon anyways. Lesson learned anyhow.
Oh and I've settled on a Sunrace M96 shifter set for my mtn bike, I'll find out if it's any good next week. Looks better than the $9 Sunrace set. No more Shimano trigger BS.
>>944181
>What helmet brand/model do you guys swear by?
All my bike and ski helmets are Giro. Best helmets by far imo. I like the Savant.
>I've been using the chain for 5 years now so it'll probably be time to change it soon anyways. Lesson learned anyhow.
m8... you should be replacing your chain much more often than that. If you continue using it when it gets beyond 1% stretch, you'll wear out your chain rings, cassette cogs, and derailleur pulleys. Then you have to replace everything. Chances are, after 5 years with one chain, you'll have to replace all that stuff. If you don't, your drive train will skip.
In the future, stop by a LBS and ask them to measure your chain every 500 miles ridden or so. Chains have to be replaced typically after 1,000-3,000 miles depending on various factors, and it is recommended to replace at 0.75% stretch (requires chain measuring tool to check; LBS will do it for free because if it's stretched, that means you buy a new chain from them)
>>944178
Typical /mu/ fuckface not knowing how to use the catalog.
>>944183
Typical /n/ cyclist eternally frustrated by his suburban surroundings and denied right to the road. Who hurt you? Some laddy almost hit you today? Calm yr autism.
>>944187
/mu/ is filled with hostile assholes when it comes to posting, how does it feel now?
>>944191
>asks for help
>gets a pointer
>acts like an asshole
You're new to this people thing, aren't you?
>>944193
Well, he IS from /mu/.
How much better or worse are hydraulic rim brakes compared to cable rim brakes
>>944193
>acts like an asshole
[citation needed]
See >>944183
>>Typical /mu/ fuckface not knowing how to use the catalog.
>>944194
>shit taste detected
>>944191
Not that guy, but /mu/ pretty much exists to argue about Neutral Milk Hotel, start a thread about anything outside of a very narrow genre of music for 15-25 year old kids who ride skateboards and vandalize people's property, and the thread basically goes straight to the archive.
>>944204
>/mu/ pretty much exists to argue about Neutral Milk Hotel
Based retard.
NMH isn't even relevant in neo-/mu/
anything outside of a very narrow genre of music for 15-25 year old kids who ride skateboards and vandalize people's property, and the thread basically goes straight to the archive
Although I'll admit that you're not far off here.
If only he didn't include /mu/
he'd have his answer already and be on his way. Oh well.
>>944207
Hope you realize that /mu/ shits on every band at some point or another. It's not a personal, serious thing for them to shit on your particular favorite band.
Just stop bein' a puss.
*puffs cigarillo*
>>944200
>See >>944183
That waas the pointer I mentionen. Be thankfull he bothered to correct you when you make a faux pas in an unfamiliar soca setting. The abuse was warranted for parading around home board like a badge of honour. It's the retard version of being a girl on the internet, and you got a togtfo.
I shouldn't even bother explaining this to you, but I feel pity. You're either very you and hopelessly insecure, or neuro-atypical.
Have some ESR: http://www.catb.org/esr/faqs/smart-questions.html#rtfm
>>944214
>parading around home board like a badge of honour
/k/ seems to do this quite a bit, like introducing themselves as /k/ommando to another board is relevant at all
>>944208
Go back to shitting on your own board.
>>944214
>The abuse was warranted for parading around home board like a badge of honour.
Based pedantry.
I was just saying that I was new and don't know anything about bikes. I truly don't give a shit about your board etiquette or whatever.
>You're either very you and hopelessly insecure, or neuro-atypical.
You're either projecting or you're projecting.
>>944217
I refuse.
Tell me your favorite band so I can tell you why they're terrible.
>>944220
>I truly don't give a shit about your board etiquette or whatever.
Such edgy. Very faggot. Much insecure.
See what I mean about being new to this 'people and getting help' thing? You should read what ESR says about not being a loser. You've basically hit every home by now. Better luck in the future.
If you had to get a backpack or bag for $50-ish dollars what would you buy?
>>944222
>Such edgy. Very faggot. Much insecure.
Such 2012 Cheezburger cringe. Shouldn't you be on the comments section on the imgur frontpage?
>You should read what ESR says about not being a loser
>You should read an Internet manual for interactions within online communities it really helps me with my crippling autism
You're either very you and hopelessly insecure, or neuro-atypical. You don't need some html web 2.0 blogger to tell you how to talk to people, you stupid fuckass.
>>944229
>doesn't know eric raymond
OK, you're twelve. Mystery solved.
Tell me again what great success you've had getting your answer here. The manual is literally ment for people like you. And it's comical how well you fit the archetypical model.
>>944225
Fjällräven for alternative cred bro. Or Haglöfs Corker. I have the latter and it's practical as fuck for biking and hiking.
>>944235
>Tell me again what great success you've had getting your answer here.
It's just shitposting same as always if you wanna be a fucking sperg. It's like pointing a fucking laser at a cat.
It's too easy.
>And it's comical how well you fit the archetypical model.
Tell me more.
>>944238
>jokes on you, i'm only pretending
>i'm realy cool and didn't at all screw the pooch
>look at me everyone, im not caring!
>wooowooo durr
>>944241
>jokes on you, i'm not pretending
>I'm actually retarded
You imply that I don't care as if that's something particularly unbelievable/difficult to do.
>>944225
DAKINE HELI PRO
>>944225
Depends on what I would be using it for.
whats up with gumwalls recently ?
is it a trend or are they in any way functionaly different than normal side walls ?
>>944301
old school is the new school, brah.
there are some slight differences between skinwall, gumwall, and blackwall.
blackwall - rubber coating over the casing makes them stronger vs. cuts, stiffer, and UV resistant.
gumwall - same as blackwall, just that the rubber coating over the casing is tan color.
skinwall - visible threads in the wall. weaker vs. cuts, can get fugged by UV, but are generally more supple and compliant. of course they get dirty, so you need to keep 'em clean so your cute vintage steelie keeps looking snappy.
so it's partly a durability thing, but for the most part it's a fashion thing. there are also quite a few blackwall tires, like the gp4000 sII, that have a really supple rubber compound on the sides, so you don't sacrifice handling and feel for the extra protection.
>>944311
Gumwalls are not UV resistant like blackwalls. Also skinwalls can be made black. Tan rubber, whether for gumwalls or skinwalls is cheaper and more supple.
I have an ots, that my lbs converted to a single speed, when the original rear wheel broke, no chain tensioner.
Now, my chain is pretty streched, to the point that it slipped off on my last ride. Can I just use a chaintool to take a couple of links out, or is that a stupid idea, and if so why? Do I have to get a new chain instead?
Didn't find anything about this at Sheldon's so i guess it's not a thing people do?
>>944249
are you the same guy recommending the heli pro every time someone asks or are multiple people recommending it
>>944348
You need a new chain, and possibly a new freewheel. Riding on a stretched chain is only going to accelerate your drivetrain wear.
Or maybe your rear wheel slipped a bit and your chain is not stretched but just loose. Get a ruler and measure your chain to see if it's stretched, Sheldon can tell you how.
>>944348
>Didn't find anything about this at Sheldon's so i guess it's not a thing people do?
Taking a link out will quite probably result in a chain that's too short.
What people do is move the rear wheel back to tighten the chain every now and then. If your frame doesn't have dropouts that allow this, well... you dun goofed, anon.
>>944380
Then he's an idiot and feel free to take a link or two off. Don't worry about accelerated wear. Skip is a non-issue as long as the chain is properly tensioned, freewheels are cheap and you'll be sick and tired of your ghetto conversion long before it's an issue.
i paid $100, did I do good /n/?
>>944397
>stemshifters
>kickstand
>suicide levers
>bikeboom gaspipe boat anchor
No, you dun goofed. Seriously, why do you people keep doing this shit?
>imma find me sum bargain on craigslist, hurr durr
I have a frame that is a bit to small for me. The saddle height is just right when I almost max my post length, but the the bars are a bit too low.
On my other bikes I ride with the bars and saddle about even (I know, I'm a noob), but this bike has a pretty serious drop. I don't mind it much for short commutes, but I want to use this frame for longer rides as well.
If I buy a long (quill) stem, will I run into any problems apart from looking like a dork?
>>944383
thanks /n/pai!
i like my ghetto conversion though and intend to ride it for a long time (also i'm poor)
>>944412
You should be fine getting a longer stem, I see people do it all the time, don't worry about looking like a dork either.
>>944418
Awesome.
And just to be absolutely positive, 26mm is the right clamp size for older road bikes right? I can't seem to find a long stem with that size that I like.
>>944421
>26mm is the right clamp size for older road bikes
It might be. The beaty of standards is that there are so many that everyone can have one of their own. Sometimes several.
Yes, 25.8/26 (different but close enough most times) is _a_ common older standard, but buy a set of calipers. Not owning a set of calipers is fumbling blindly.
>>944427
*Buy a set of good calipers
Holy shit this cheap Harbor Freight one I got last week is horrible.
I want to change handlebars on my beater, what does /n/ think of these pursuits bars? I plan on TT brakes and actual bar tape.
http://www.bricklanebikes.co.uk/blb-dali-pursuit-bar
>>944469
I'm not a fan of the rise, I prefer either straight or when they go down before the horns.
Have you ridden those before?
repaired a puncture on pic related and managed to put the tyres (both wheels) on against the directional arrow. Is it going to burst into flames?
>>944486
Rest in pepperonis, you'll be missed.
eh, it shouldn't matter all that much it just helps by Slightly reducing rolling resistance, if you're at home with nothing better to do then flip them back over.
>>944488
Cheers mate, Have tyre levers and a pump. Will do tomorrow day and probably clean the thing while I'm at it.
>>944523
>>944524
p-please respond senpais
>>944486
You got your question answered already, but I'd like to add that you'd probably see a bigger difference by cleaning your bike and tuning it up than flipping tires.
>>944058
>The tires on this bike are like pencil thin.
>impossible to ride on some streets
I'm gonna be a dick and say man up. I ride 23s, everywhere. I live in a busy city.
>>944486
You're repairing punctures wrong bro. The tyre shouldn't come off the rim, so how you managed to supposedly get it back on the wrong way I do not know.
Front wheels are reversible, take off, flip, put back on.
>>944527
pinarooroo doggy b8 dick brake with zipper error not found and super duper vinyls
>>944552
>You're repairing punctures wrong bro.
No he's not.
>The tyre shouldn't come off the rim,
That's only true if you know exactly where the puncture is AND you can get a patch adequately applied without removing the tire. Otherwise you have to take the tire off to find the puncture, as well as to inspect the tire and get rid of any thorns or anything else that may have caused the puncture.
>Front wheels are reversible, take off, flip, put back on.
Some are, not all.
>>944552
>Front wheels are reversible
No they're not. That puts the text on the front hub the wrong way around. Have some fucking respect for the sport.
>>944527
http://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer
>>944397
If you enjoy riding it, then yes, absolutely. I got my OTS for $175 on Craigslist and I love it as much as I love my my multi-thousand-dollar high end carbon bikes.
>>944348
If your chain is really that stretched you are desperately in need of a new chain. Riding with a chain stretched beyond 1% wears out your sprockets, then you have to replace everything. Generally replace a chain at 0.75% stretch (generally after 1,000-3,000 miles of riding; an LBS will use their chain measuring tool and tell you if yours is stretched enough to need replacing, they should do this for free; I recommend doing this every 500 miles or so ridden).
However, it might not be that the chain is stretched, but rather that the wheel has moved slightly forward in the dropouts.
Anyway, aside from the fact that you may need a new chain, if you just want to fix the issue of having a loose chain, then just loosen the bolts on your rear wheel (unless you have a quick release, then just open the QR lever), pull the wheel back as far as you can, then tighten it back up. This can be pretty difficult to get it pulled back far enough to make the chain tight enough though. That's why I fucking hate working on single speeds. I work at a LBS and I hate tensioning chains on single speeds more than fucking anything, it's also imo just about the most difficult maintenance issue to fix.
>>944301
Hipster fashion.
Surly Cross-check good?
what is a cyclocross bike anyway? I think a little more relaxed geo, maybe higher BB?
Anything else to look at? I think a steel frame looks cooler.
>>944550
Man up, I ride a unicycle everywhere.
>>944580
ohboyherewego.html
>>944586
what is it? I'm not trying to start anything, care to share your two cents?
>>944588
Surly is hugely divisive on this board
tl;dr alleged heavy hipster/surly cult tax. bikes themselves are solid, but even that is disputed by some.
CX is for off-road racing but lately seen as an all-rounder.
>>944580
>relaxed
not necessarily
>higher BB
usually
Soma Double Cross is a good alternative. I wish they'd kept making the stainless steel Triple Cross. SO SHINEY
>>944580
The Cross-Check (and the Straggler which is basically a Cross-Check with disc brakes) is an excellent bike, but I prefer the Salsa Vaya. The Vaya is more fun to ride, and it's built for light touring so it will be just as durable and have all the rack mounts and such that you might want.
>what is a cyclocross bike anyway?
Basically a cross between a road bike and a mountain bike. Cyclocross is an event (look up videos) that involves riding through grass, mud, dirt, sand, and pavement. Bicycles used for cyclocross racing are pretty similar to road bikes, but their geometry is a little bit slacker, their bottom bracket is higher, they have wider tire clearance, they have 32mm-33mm cyclocross tires (basically half way from semislick to knobby), and I believe the stays are longer.
Given the fact that they are very versatile and fun bicycles, people started using them as commuters, adventure bikes, touring bikes, etc. So now cyclocross bikes have moved out of the realm of cyclocross racing. While cyclocross racing is as popular as ever, and cyclocross race bikes are also as popular as ever, there's also non-race "cyclocross" bikes that are designed for commuting, touring, and general riding. Examples are the Cross-Check, Vaya, and Macho Man.
>>944588
There's one, maybe several, faggots on this board that hate Surly for no reason. Surly makes great bikes. I'm not even a shill or a fanboy, I have four bikes and none of them is a Surly, I just recognize that Surly makes great stuff.
>>944606
I think he meant compared to a road bike.
>>944607
>I already know my size, Im just asking on advice on what i should choose as far as components and frames go
Sorry, misread. You'll have to say a little more about what you want. You said really good road bike for daily driver, but really good is subjective, and it will depend a lot on the type of riding you do. Do you race? If so, long distance or short distance or both? Do you like going on all-day adventure rides, or prefer doing shorter rides? Do you like riding as fast as possible or just like riding for the sake of riding? Will you use it to commute? Do you value effeciency/speed or comfort more? etc... lots of factors, no one here can tell you what to get knowing just what you've already said.
>>944611
I like steel frames and one of my favorite bikes rn is the SOMA ES "smoothie" so i'd like something similar to that which means I'm also into the SRAM gearing
>>944612
SRAM is great, ignore the faggots that shill for Shitmano.
Red for high level racing
Force for low level racing
Force or Rival if you're a serious cyclist but not a racer
Rival if you're a casual
Basically, Red=Dura Ace, Force=Ultegra, Rival=105. All three are good stuff and if you're not a really serious cyclist you won't notice much difference so I'd just go with Rival if you're unsure. Force and Red are more for competitive cyclists/racers.
What are the best value tires for a rigid mtb commuter?
I plan on buying a set of Pasela TGs or Schwable Marathons before I tour in a couple of years, but I just need a set of reliable tires for now.
I'm poor as fuck, so cheaper is better.
>>944594
>>944606
>>944607
>>944608
thanks guys. the double cross looks nice, I found the shop near me sells soma so I will have to check them out. also this bike is really good looking.
>>944618
>I'm poor as fuck, so cheaper is better.
check out what nashbar has right now or biketiresdirect, good time to buy
>>944626
>biketiresdirect
are they related to bikesdirect in any wayÉ
>>944618
Vittoria Randonneur Pro II
Michelin City
anything similar to those
>>944613
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UFUcSrmIcKk
>>944637
Only that the names are similar, why do you ask? Did you have a bad experience with bikesdirect?
>>944637
Yes, and bicycle blue book is the same as kelly blue book
Where do you people come from anyway
>>944626
Nashbar has continental city tires for $12. Thanks for the recommendation!
>>944613
Ty based anon, ill try to post pics when i start building
Bike n00b here.My bike has a shifter on the right that says "Friction".What does that shifter do ? when I shift it the only difference I notice is that the chain makes more noice.
Also,when someone says 28" wheel,do they mean the width of the tire or the size/height of the wheel?
Here goes. I'm going to sound like the stupidest motherfucker, but whatever.
I only just learned how to ride a bike (I'm 20) due to my parents never really pushing me to learn when I was a kid.
What's the best way to keep balance? I can barely go 30 feet without suddenly eating shit. I'm on a 12 speed mountain bike if that counts for anything.
>>944759
Also while I'm here, would a cruiser be easier to balance on than a mountain bike?
>>944621
yeah, the wolverine is a nice frameset. another soma that I like is the b-side, which I might be doing a build with if my current project (converting a 2006 novara buzz that is much too small for me into a dirt shredder) winds up trying to kill me
>>944759
practice balance by rolling downhill on grass. do it while not pedaling at first, then while pedaling. that way when you eat shit it doesn't hurt much. also lower your seat until you can put your foot down if you need to, and then raise it back up when you get more confident.
>>944557
I think this could be a misunderstanding coming from the tires you guys use. I ran into something similar when riding with my buddy a while back.
Some tires flex enough that you can completely remove the tube while only taking one side of the tire off of the rim. Leaving the tire half on the rim usually doesn't cause any problems and could be what that guy meant.
A lot of tires don't have enough flex for that, however, and complete removal is necessary.
I could be wrong, but I just don't want my /n/ friends fighting among themselves. I love you all. Let's get along.
>>944754
I'm just going to assume that you're serious here. A friction shifter is a shifter that does not have indexing capabilities. This shifter alters tension on a cable that is attached to a derailleur on your bike (either the thing above your front gear, or hanging below your rear gears). This tension moves the derailleur, which guides your chain over to a different gear. The changes in gears alter the power required to pedal, more power more fast per pedal rotation.
The noise is a result of the chain being between two gears and catching on one of them. You want this to happen as little as possible. This can wear on your gears/chain.
Here's a video to further explain friction shifting:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9uDtF2MJaP0
In the future, try googling a few key words from your question + "Sheldon Brown" before asking on the forums. Sheldon's site more than likely has the answer, even if it is kind of ugly.
>>944821
thanks man,yeah I was serious.I just,as I said , am a total noob so I dont have any knowledge of where to look other than /n/.I dont know what sites are legit and what sites feed me bullshit so my first response is looking at answers on 4chan.
>>944608
Would a Cross-Check or Double Cross make a good mountain bike if I wanted to go for a modernized 80's look? Only downside is no 26".
And when I say mountain bike I mean riding rough trails, not extreme sport foolery.
I'd throw on a flat bar and do light touring on it too.
>>944844
You want a monstercross.
Where are my MTB junkies at.
fuck rapha
OK, I need to make some decisions and I also would like some suggestions and opinions for a disc brake system for my "weight weenied XC hardtrial AiO bike".
I also have an 203(F)/180(R) router group ready to use(Magura Storm SL) plus adapters.
The only thing that's been bothering me for days, is the frame's compatibility to fit an hydraulic line within the brake or shifters housing line.
It's a 2000 Kona cinder cone; I already told it to a couple mechanics and they said to drill or sand file the hole.
Price at Canadian Tire money: CAD
NPMS: no post mount screws
>2011-14? Magura MT8 ($328.68, ebay)
“Used brakeset with typical wear. Recently bled but could use new pads.”
>2014 Formula RO ($300, NPMS)
A little more over power and bit heavy than 'the ones' for $25.00 more
>2013 Formula The Ones ($275, NPMS)
I've been thinking about this.
>Avid BB7 S ($243.16, amazon)
Last option if everything fails
>Avid XO ($225, NPMS)
stealthy black xo beauties, notorious issues.
>Avid XO w/ rotors ($225)
Red xo sweeties with the adapters and routers(2X160mm), notorious issues.
>2011 KCNC X7 ($200, shipping only)
ehhhh, XC nirvana.
>Clarks CNC 600 ($195.99, CRC on sale)
Cant find any information or review about this. Weight 897g?.
>2014 Formula RX ($180)
It's like Windows 98, squeaks & squeals.
>Hayes Stroker Gram ($140, NPMS)
meh
>Clarks CNC 540 ($130.49, CRC on sale)
Cant find any information or review about this. Weight 837g?.
>Shimano XT BR M775 Ti ($120, MPMS)
betty good I guess... meh
>>944862
>they said to drill or sand file the hole
That's the neat and pretty, permanent solution. If you don't want to you need pic related. Problemsolvers, Magura, Jagwire and a bunch of others offer these.
There's also the band-on/stick-on variety that you can fit anywhere you like on the frame tubes. Cost and weighs next to nothing.
>>944862
Shimano crushed it so hard with XT's price:performance ratio that there's practically no reason to go with anything else except for muh grams or because you're too cool for Shimano.
I guess if you like being flung over your bars or you're the fattest fuck on earth you could go with Zee brakes.
>>944862
>Magura MT8 ($328.68, ebay)
m8 that's their lightest brake and even SLX is the same weight at a lot less money. Get small and light rotors if yu want to keep the system weight down. You're not going to make savings on the calipers.
(XT M785 is 6g lighter)
>>944864
>If you don't want to you need pic related.
Yeah, they already told me about this. But my bikefu is already being abused by scratches, decal marks.
I don't mind the neat and pretty solution. If it was a new frame that's a different story.
>>944866
>no reason to go with anything else except for muh grams or because you're too cool for Shimano.
Guilty as charged. I'm trying to my stuff used anyway.
>>944868
Trying to find good Shimano brakeset here in Vancouver is a pain in the asshole. Craiglist is useless and Pinkbike is like a battleground between high sellers here and lucky ones from different locations with Paypal or email money transfer hell.
>nearby ones
2015 Shimano XTR M988 ($450)
http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/1962278/
2014 Shimano XTR Trail M988 (M985 calipers)($300)
http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/1962688/
2016 Shimano SLX M??5 ($120)(Also thinking about this too)
http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/1947533/
>>944905
>used shit from craigslist
*sigh* You dumbass. Retail on the Shimanos is less than than the used Maguras you were looking at earlier. Get off the second hand bandwagon. It's a whole world out here.
bought some old wheels at a flearmarket fuer 5 bucks, campagnolo hubs laced to a mavic and ofmega rim, both are for tubular tyres, rearwheel got a 5 spd freewheel installed. might it be worth relacing them to clincher rims?
>>944759
just push yourself with your feet so you don't have to worry about pedaling, stay loose on the bike, when you comfortable rolling along start trying turns
>>944905
just use wiggle or chain reaction ffs, you can get fresh XT M8000s for around a hundred moosebux
>>944915
No, why? Buy a (possibly cheap) set of tubulars, tune them up and go riding.
>>944919
but i want clinchers
>>944920
Then you dun goofed anon, you dun goofed.
>inb4 but i got a great price on shit i dont want or need
>cant pass that up
fat fuck reporting in
used to love cycling, and would love to get back into it. whats a good road bike that wont break the bank, and wont break when i sit on it :^)
>>944924
>implying you haven't done the same thing
>implying you don't have a n+1 because of that
>>944930
M8000s. Going to the Zee/Saint 4 piston system if you aren't doing DH is massive overkill.
>>944037
I noticed my cranks have developed lateral play. Crank bolts are tight as fuck. Square taper BB. What do?
>>944968
Replace the BB if cartridge. Adjust it if cup and cone.
>>944621
Went to the shop today.
He has to call to see if there is a Double Cross complete available. They had a 62cm Gunnar Cross built that I tried, I thought it felt a little big but maybe it's because I'm out of shape and also not used to being able to stretch out on a bike? He didn't offer much about fit, but the Soma complete doesn't come in 62 only 60, not sure what is best for me at 6'4". Looking at the geo on the DC the reach is the same on the 60 just shorter stack. Any thoughts
I'm going to go to all the other bike shops to try and get a better idea, I'd also like to try a regular road bike to compare. Does it even matter what bike you ride?
Apologies if this is more than question.
Help! What did I wrong? It should look like on the pic right. I can't figured out. Is there somewhere a video or tutorial how to put it right together?
>>945011
For sizing,
http://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer
>Does it even matter what bike you ride?
Um... what is this question even supposed to mean? You won't want a freeride rig on your 300km road ride and you won't want a fucking road bike when you're hucking 20 foot cliffs. So yeah, it absolutely fucking matters what bike you ride.
>pic related
>>944926
How fat? You might be better off on a hybrid or cyclocross bike than a road bike.
And when I say "hybrid" I mean the good kind of hybrid (i.e. Marin Muirwoods 29er, Kona Dew Plus, Trek FX, Specialized Sirrus), NOT the shit-tier beach cruisers that some people refer to as hybrids.
>>944848
>>944859
Fuck off, drops are not ideal for off-road riding (with some exceptions).
>>944844
For smooth easy trails yeah they'd be great as long as you're not doing really long rides. For the techier trails where you'll be riding over rocks and logs and stuff, no, you'll find yourself dismounting a lot. Not that you can't ride those bikes there -- you definitely can. You just won't have as much fun as you would on a mountain bike.
If I was to toss a new cassette (bigger) and chain on my bike would I need to readjust the rear derailleur? or would it still work with its current settings?
REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
I lost my heavily modified timbuk2 XL bag that I've had for almost a decade it seems they no longer make the XL
who makes large 4/50L+ messenger bags these days
![derailleur-sizes[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/UhZZCev.jpg "derailleur-sizes[1].jpg")
>>945029
Depends what you mean by bigger.
If you mean more gears, it just won't work, new derailleur needed.
If you mean a larger climbing gear on the cassette, then it will work up to a point depending on if you have a short/mid or long rear derailleur. Then again you need a new rear derailleur.
What change are you thinking of making exactly?
>>945024
>Fuck off
no u
I bet you don't even use crosslevers you pleb
>>945043
>this guy
>>945024
>ideal for off-road
Ideal for fun. You know, lots of toys are made to be as fun as possible rather than as easy to use as possible. Rigid also isn't "optimal" for off-road, but I don't see you raging on that.
Monstercrosses are awesome, and optimal fun on the singletrack. Deal with it.
>>945050
>this guy
years ago, someone here posted a link to an interesting article with the pres or CEO of IIRC Murray USA, the maker of BSOs. He was very forthright, explaining how their market research indicated that their buyers rode their bikes for, say, 40 miles on average. Not per day or per year, but total. consequently, they were only engineered to last that long before breaking down.
I cannot find it on the google machine. do any of y'all know what I'm talking about?
>>945020
looks like you didn't re-tension the spring when you put it back together. not the parallelogram spring, the other one on the swingarm
>>945042
I have a shimano rd-5701, the spec says it will take up to a 30T, I currently have 27T and it just sucks for climbing. I just havent ever had to adjust the rear derailleur so I want to know if when I put a new cassette in will I have to adjust the settings on on the derailleur. I am about to drop the hammer on buying a new cassette and removal tools.
>>945021
Obviously. Sorry I just was talking about how I always need the best thing. Worrying and reading about mm differences in geo when ultimately one will work just as well as the next.
>>945062
Test ride some and see which one you like best. Minor differences won't make much difference if you're not a really serious cyclist, you'll get used to whatever bike you get, but you might find that you like one more than another, just as a matter of personal preference. I've ridden some bikes that are similar to each other and liked one a lot more than others, but would still be happy on any of them. When it comes to this really your only option, if you want to get the best possible bike for you, is to test ride everything you're looking at.
>>945060
You'll probably have to adjust the b limit at least. High and low limit screws and indexing/cable tension may in theory not have to be adjusted, but in theory doesn't always equate to in practice.
It's good to know how to make these adjustments anyway, so don't look at this as a big chore for a one-time thing. Derailleurs sometimes have to be re-adjusted over time, and it's best to know how to do it yourself.
It seems really complicated at first, but after you read a few articles a few times and play around with it, you'll get it down. First time you should go out on a short ride and bring a multitool with you (of course you should always have a multitool anyway), see how the shifting feels, and expect to make a few stops for re-adjustments until you get it just right. After doing it a few times it'll become easy.
Here's some good articles:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-adjustment
>>945068
yeah I am dreading learning how to adjust everything after the problems I had with the front when it came out of adjustment. Fortunately I have a stand so I can just spin through everything here and not have to do it out on a ride to get dialed in.
>Shilling for all the QBP brands at once
If if buy a mountain bike, can i still keep my sweet hipster mustache?
>>945094
only if it's a 1x with at Least 12 cogs in the rear
>>945011
btw, disc brakes or no? I think they look cool.
>>945080
>Fortunately I have a stand so I can just spin through everything here and not have to do it out on a ride to get dialed in.
Even still, a bike will sometimes seem to be adjusted right in the stand, then when you ride it, it turns out to be just a little off. But that will stop happening after you get some practice in.
>>945102
Discs are generally the best option performance-wise, but are also a bit more expensive. But they're getting common and affordable so yeah, go with discs if you have the option.
>>945059
Yes thank you! It worked.
I just had to take off this screw, twist it back and turn the screw back in.
>>945102
With disc brakes you get improved performance in wet and mud, but with a weight and price penalty. Maybe more of a pain to maintain than cantis, I dunno. You're more or less stuck with Shimano hydros because SRAM hydros are shit, Campy hasn't released their system yet, and mechanical discs are arguably no better than cantis. But you were probably planning on running Shimano anyway, right?
What's the difference between bikes marketed as XC, All-Mountain, Trail and Enduro?
>>945166
I wasn't planning on any kind I want to buy a bike so I'm trying to learn.
Are these good parts? http://www.somafab.com/archives/product/double-cross-disc-complete-bicycle
>>945180
>Are these good parts?
Perfect, anon!
The BB7 brakes are in the top tier of mech disc brakes, and very easy to adjust when paired with SRAM levers. SRAM Apex is a rock-solid group, and its high wire pull design makes it easy to adjust and very forgiving of less than perfect adjustment and maintenence. IOW the perfect beginners mid-high tier groupset.
Only real questionmark is the wheels, but high spoke count and eyelets should mean bombproof, if not super light.
Go for it!
>>945235
>bb7
>good
I hadn't realized we're cruelly trying to trick newbies now, has /n/ become one of those boards?
>>945179
XC<Tr<En=AM<downhill
in that order, each category of mountain bike has an increasing amount of suspension travel, plus the geometry gets slacker and the wheelbase gets longer so the bike is easier to control on fast downhill runs. The tradeoff is that as suspension gets bigger, the bike gets heavier, and as geometry changes to be better at going downhill, ease of climbing is sacrificed.
>>945236
>shitposting this badly
>>945236
Hydraulic shill pls go
>>945265
>implying bb7 hasn't been the benchmark for a decade
>implying the existence of one dual piston mech demotes everything else to shit tier
>implying bb7 isn't still one of the best mech brakes in existence
>implying being close second to leader costing 100 € more per pair isn't damn good
>implying 9/10 of problems people have with road bb7 isn't due to shimano levers with high cable friction brake cable design
>implying that doesn't also apply to spyre
Elitist shitposter, GTFO.
So I'm new to the world of bicycles and about a year ago I bought a novaro buzz. I changed out the handle bars to a drop bar style.
First problem, I assumed handlebar diameter was more or less universal and I wouldn't run into size issues. When I looked, the handlebar diameter was the same as my old one, but nothing fit back on right, and now I need to replace my shifters and brake levers.
I bought a shifter/brake lever combo, but it doesn't tell you a diameter size for the clamp, which I figure that would be pretty important. I get the new ones and of course same problem, I have to fucking mangle the clamp to get it to slide on. That doesn't solve the problem because the original bolt is too short to thread into the clamp.
I'm looking through shifters and brakes on amazon and none have a diameter size on the clamp. What the fuck is going on? Am I missing something here? Do I have to file the fucking handlebars?
what are the downsides of slamming a stem right on the bearings, vs slamming it on a bearing cover / headset cap?
Is it just protection from weather?
>>945272
Stop before you waste more money. Flatbar bikes can not be easily converted to drops. Drops add 10-15cm reach (on hoods), meaning the bike is at least four- to five sizes too long. Flatbar shifters and brakes don't fit dropbar diameter. Buy the right bike from the start.
>inb4 craigslist frankenbike fits me fine
>>945268
>implying the existence of one dual piston mech demotes everything else to shit tier
No one has to >imply when it's true
"Good for its time" doesn't mean "good forever"
>>945275
Alright, that sucks then. I rode with the drop bars and they felt fine, but I guess I don't want to look like a total retard riding round.
>>945276
>good for its purpose doesn't mean good
Yes, in fact anon, it does. You're trying to claim the still second best mech brake design of all time is suddenly unfit for the job. You've never rode either BB7 or Spyre and is just signaling.
>>945278
>go out of your way to call an obsolete brake design "state of the art"
>why is everyone disagreeing with me ;_;
Look, if you had just said "the buildout is solid, nothing amazing but nothing terrible" it would have been fine. But I can tell you have BB7, here I'll help you out:
>Kenda Kwik Track are the best tires of all time! anyone who disagrees with me is just being elitist and has obviously never tried them!
>>945282
>>everyone
>implying not samefag
>implying design that all but one mech brake uses is suddenly obsolete
>confirming he never rode either brake and has no idea what he's talking about
It's OK, anon, I don't care what you think about any piece of machinery. Your opinion is of no importance to me. Just don't confuse the poor bastard asking for advice with your uninformed, random assertion that they're less than good.
>>945283
>if he doesn't think my pet equipment is the best thing ever it means he hasn't used anything better
Wrong.
And you're the one sowing confusion here, so let's be clear: what you mean is it's perfectly ok, so you would be gratified if that other anon would settle for "perfectly ok" even though "much better" costs the same
buddy of mine has a bike equipped with an older campa veloce, its crankset just broke but its a squaretaper bottom bracket and i've got some crankset from a 5 speed bike lying around. would there be any issue on putting on that crankset? i know that more speeds meaans narrower chain, but does that mean that the cranksets are narrower too?
i want to get a bike for uni next semester because i cant really afford to keep my car there any more. does it matter what kind or where i get it? i dont really know anything about bikes, and i havent rode one in probably 5 years
idk if it makes a difference but im pretty short and my school is in more of a suburban setting than a city or something
i've never been on this board before, so sorry if there's like a guide for this or something
>>945300
90's rigid mountain bike
>>945293
The bottom bracket axle lenth is specific to each chainset and there is no standard width. The odds of a random chainset fitting a random square-taper BB are very high indeed. No, it probably won't work.
>>945273
bump
just wondering if I need to bother buying a slamthatstem bearing cover or just leave the bearings naked
Troops, those who ride with clipless pedals. How do you properly fit the cheats to the shoes so as to not induce knee pain during your ride? I've been trying to wiggle the cheats around to try and achieve the optimum position but so far I've had no luck. Thnx in advance.
>>945305
what about replacing the BB and Crankset with a cheap one from Shimano+HOllowtech? there are no pins or whatever on the current Campa crankset for proper front shifting, and as long as the chainline isn't fucked it should work, shouldn't it?
>>945309
Right under the ball of your foot. If your knees hurt and you feel that no amount of adjusting makes it better it sounds like you need pedals with 'float.' Some people rotate their knee/foot while treading, some don't. The former category needs pedals that allow you some float.
If you have SPD-SL, try the yellow cleats. If you have Shimano SPD, try a Crankbrothers system instead. If others, please specify.
>>945309
Clip under the ball of the foot, done
You sure the pain isn't from something else like say, low RPM or wrong seat height or something along those lines?
>>945310
Yes, that would work. But you will trigger purists by mixing fishing pole Shimano and glorious Campa. Get a period Campagnolo chainset if you can.
>>945314
>You sure the pain isn't from something else like say, low RPM or wrong seat height or something along those lines?
Not unless you had that problem before you got the clipless pedals.
>>945316
well i don't really mind mixing up components as long as it works so.. who cares, thanks for your advice
>>945300
>but im pretty short
90s rigid mountain bike is correct, don't fall for the suspension =comfort idiocy. I'm short too and the smaller wheels make it easier to find something that isn't too big for you to ride.
Hop on craigslist or see if there are co-ops near you if you don't find anything cheap at your local bike shop.
Get some city tires for it if you have nice roads and won't take it off-road, makes for a nicer ride.
Oh also, in my area there are plenty of pawn shops that have bike sales so maybe swing by and see what they got. Try to only buy brands you can wiki. I got someone's sweet single speed conversion to an old Fuji mountain bike for 20 bucks a few months ago, shit was so cash.
What do you guys think of this bike? Apparently it's a refurbished Glider from England. The price is $110 CAD.
Also, how do I become more knowledgeable when it comes to bikes? I can't even read half the shit in the threads on this board.
>>945306
>just leave the bearings naked
I mean... it's 20 dollars, spend the money, embrace the meme.
>>945326
sheldonbrown.com
Read the articles, scroll the glossary or use the search engine to find what you need
I don't know shit about that bike though
>>945326
I'd maybe drop 60$, depending on where you live
>>945326
seems like a neat bike but I guarantee you it's a boat anchor. that's almost certainly a Sturmey Archer 3 speed rear hub, reliable and better than single speed, but… only 3 speeds to push that leaden frame and your fat ass around.
If you just want to casually toot around town or the bucolic Canadian countryside, then it's probably fine. $110 CAD seems fair if I'm right thinking that's under $100 US. that seat looks completely blown out and extra heavy. upgrade that.
Went for a 40 mile ride yesterday. About 3/4 of the way through, some of my gears started to have a delayed response when I shifted into them. It was so annoying.
The ride was extrwmely flat, so was riding mainly in two gears the whole way. It's a 21 speed bike. I don't know the proper way to to say which gear I was in, but I was mainly in the gear 2-5 (2 oit of 3 on the right shifter, 5 out of 7 on the left shifter).
The gears that were fucking up I'm pretty sure were 2-2, 2-3, and 2-4.
Wat do?
37-622(35x700c,28x1 3/8 x1 5/8) is the absolute most common size in tires here in the netherlands,followed by 40-635.
Also most common brands are cst,schwalbe and cordo(a rebrand of cst)
What is the most common tire size in your countries anons?
>>945278
BB7 is mush city.
And that bike comes with SRAM Apex which is fucking garbage, even for SRAM.
Soma completes aren't that great. Their stuff is mostly aimed at people who want to build shit from the frame up
>>945376
Every gottagofast rodie around here runs 700x23mm
Every other cyclist runs 26x2"
I run 25mm because I'm a special snowflake
>>945376
In the US...honestly I couldn't tell you, because the bike industry has so much variety here. In Japan it's 650A. It's really weird to me that the retrogrouches and MTB industry are pushing 650B when 650A is way more common in general.
>>945103
>Even still, a bike will sometimes seem to be adjusted right in the stand, then when you ride it, it turns out to be just a little off. But that will stop happening after you get some practice in.
Yup.
Not him but I had this happen today, adjusted rear derailleur while on trainer, all perfect.
Went out for a ride and it was super hesitant to shift up.
Couple of adjustments and tests and all sorted.
>>945361
A few possibilities.
>derailleurs need adjustment, see:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustment
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-adjustment
>chain is stretched
Requires a special tool to measure. Stop by a bike shop and ask them to measure your chain to see if it's stretched, they'll probably do it for free. Replacement is generally recommended at 0.75% stretch, but AT LEAST by 1%. Don't wait any longer or you'll fuck up your sprockets and have to replace everything.
>Sprocket teeth are worn
Look at your chainrings and cassette cogs, see if the teeth are worn/sharked. If so, you may need new components (if these are worn, you'll need a new chain too)
My guess is that one or both derailleurs need adjustment. They likely need the indexing (cable tension) adjusted, that's the most likely, you may also need to adjust limit screws. Also, your front derailleur could be crooked and have to be straightened.
Look at the 3 links I posted, go through all the adjustments. Derailleur adjustment is kinda tricky til you have a bit of experience, so you may need to stop by a bike shop if you can't get it yourself, but if you play around with it for a while, you should be able to get it working pretty well.
>>945326
SHELDON BROWN
Park Tool's repair blog is good too
>>945300
Get a used bike on Craigslist if you're only using it to commute short distances. >>>/n/bbg can help. Ask there before buying one to make sure it's a good one.
90s rigid mountain bike is probably your best bet, but you'll likely want to replace the tires with city tires known as "semislicks" (they are half way between mountain bike tires and road bike tires, they are much faster and more efficient on pavement than mountain bike tires which are known as "knobbies").
Another option is to get an old road bike, which is good if you like riding fast and ride 100% on pavement (no gravel or rough surfaces) and are in reasonably good shape, but since you haven't ridden a bike in 5 years, and might have to kind of re-learn, a mountain bike will be better than a road bike.
Also, as others said, make sure it's a RIGID mountain bike, which means no suspension.
If you're looking to get something a bit higher quality, new, maybe to use for longer rides and get more into cycling (rather than just using a bike for short commutes), then I'd recommend looking into these bikes: Marin Muirwoods 29er, Kona Dew Plus, Salsa Vaya, All-City Macho Man, Trek FX, Specialized Sirrus, Surly Straggler. They will cost between $700-$1500 each, whereas a used bike on Craigslist will cost between $100-$500.
Make sure to also get a pump and keep your tires inflated. Tires lose air over time, and riding with the pressure too low not only slows you down but makes you more likely to get flat tires. The maximum pressure is labeled on the side of the tire, so pump them up to that pressure often, ideally before each ride.
>>945272
Um... are you trying to use flat bar brake levers/shifters on drop bars? Don't do that.
You can convert a bike from flat bar to drop bar but you'll have to get drop bar style brake/shift levers, and you may also have to replace a lot of your drive train components (and potentially even brakes) because the shifters/brake levers will be designed for different style drive train components and brakes. And yes, it does make a big difference, to the point that sometimes it's impossible to use them together.
>>945179
XC=designed for long rides on flat, easy terrain. Might have long hills, but not really gnarly descents. Often designed for racing,
Trail=all-around mountain bike, often marketed towards casuals (though that's not always the case). Has a big more suspension than an xc bike.
All-Mountain aka Enduro (two names, same thing): Designed to go fast down really technical steep downhills. Not quite as good as a downhill bike though. Wide tires, lots of suspension. Can roll over big rocks and logs, even jump off small cliffs, tear through really techy terrain. Heavier and less efficient so harder to climb, and more effort to use on long rides. Basically a cross between a cross country bike and a downhill bike.
>>945397
>>chain is stretched
>Requires a special tool to measure. Stop by a bike shop and ask them to measure your chain to see if it's stretched, they'll probably do it for free. Replacement is generally recommended at 0.75% stretch, but AT LEAST by 1%. Don't wait any longer or you'll fuck up your sprockets and have to replace everything.
Links in a chain are a half inch. With a tape measure or ruler and basic maths you can work it out yourself.
At 0.75% worn, new chain.
Once you get to 1% worn, new cassette is recommended as well. They are super cheap, my last Shimano one was about $15.
Both easy to replace yourself. Borrow cassette remover and chain whip if you're cheap like me. If you buy them, you'd probably never touch them again for another 12 months minimum.
>>945427
>Links in a chain are a half inch. With a tape measure or ruler and basic maths you can work it out yourself.
That method doesn't take roller wear into account, unfortunately. Roller wear is just as important as plate hole- and pin wear as it causes the chain to ride "lower" on the sprockets, having the same affect as chain lengthening.
(Yes, SB got this wrong.)
We've had some rainy weather here the last week and I also gave my bike a wash/degrease yesterday. Took my bike out for a ride today and I notice the rear disc brake isnt working correctly. The lever feels stiff and I'm not able to pull it all the way back. Breaking power is hugely diminished and it squeals like a mother fucker if I squeeze it too hard.
What do?
>>945463
Spray discbrake cleaner vigorously and possibly change pads. Be more carefull where the spray goes next time.
>>945460
Oh.
I stand corrected.
Gonna have to go get food, my re-captcha was about pizza...
>>945468
So, what have I fucked up then? Water on the pads?
>>945483
Oil and grime splashing on the rotor when you hosed it down. Or degreaser.
>>945377
this one comes with Shimano Claris derailleurs, STI shifter
http://www.somafab.com/archives/product/double-cross-complete-bicycle
Better or worse? Are the surlys better speced?
Thing is I don't want to spend a ton, I assume any complete will be cheaper than buying similar grade parts separately.
>>945487
>this one comes with Shimano Claris derailleurs, STI shifter
It's worse than the Apex in every single way. Don't listen to the trolls. Google the groupsets. And the brakes.
>>945486
How does that affect the pull off the brakes at the lever though (genuinely looking for education here)
>>945463
Lever pull could be due to a number of things. Might need to lube the lever, cable might be bent or worn in a spot...
Squealing can be when brake pads or rotors are dirty. You could sand the pads a little maybe, but that will decrease their lifespan of course.
>>945497
It doesn't. I was assuming he pointed that out so we could rule out air in the system, not that it was a symptom.
>>945489
Apex is garbage though. It's just not as garbage as Claris. It's between Sora and Tiagra unless you're a weight weenie.
>>945512
Apex litteraly has the same shifter mechanism as (same speed) Red, even SRAM will tell you as much. The shifters differ in materials and weight.
Please elaborate how you came to this retarded conclusion when most the world rate Apex alongside 105 , or slightly under now that 5800 is 11spd?
>>945515
>Apex litteraly has the same shifter mechanism as (same speed) Red, even SRAM will tell you as much.
And Apex is 10 speed, not 11 speed, what's your point? You do realize Sora isn't thumb shifters anymore right?
>>945519
As I run 3500 on one out of four bikes, yes I do. What has that got to do with anything? I happen to run both Shimano and SRAM of various levels daily. I think you've only ever used them both in online fantasies.
>>945522
Sure you do buddy. I also have SRAM and Shimano 11 speed parts. SRAM functions worse than Shimano, but hey, at least it's lighter. Build quality is also worse, the shift lever sticks out beyond the brake lever on one of my levers. Tiagra 10 basically shifts like Shimano 11, except it's 10. The new Sora looks to be pretty much the same as Tiagra, except 9 speeds, but it isn't out yet. Tiagra is better than Apex if you aren't counting the grams.
If you get a flat while riding, would you prefer to be carrying a patch kit, or a spare tube? What's the shelf life like for a spare tube?
On a vaguely related note, I rode my no-name steel road bike over some less than ideal terrain and broke a spoke. I was chatting with the LBS guy while he was replacing the spoke and truing the wheel - he said something to the effect that because I have cheap, shitty rims, he couldn't true the wheel precisely - I think there was about a milimeter of wobble left after he was done.
Obviously I'm going to be a heck of a lot more paranoid about potholes and tree branches from now on, but given that this happened within the first 300 km ridden on this bike, how much longer have my rims got before they're too grotesquely malformed to ride?
Is there such a thing as a folding commuter bike which comes in a carrying case which can be used as panniers once the bike is unfolded?
>>945536
Patch kit, because a patch kit has many patches. If you get a puncture from say goatheads, it's goathead season and you might very well get another.
> I was chatting with the LBS guy while he was replacing the spoke and truing the wheel - he said something to the effect that because I have cheap, shitty rims, he couldn't true the wheel precisely - I think there was about a milimeter of wobble left after he was done.
It means the wheel is toast and unfixable, or he was too lazy to do it right.
>>945537
A pile of em. I had a Bike Friday w/ hard case that turned into a trailer.
>>945540
>toast and unfixable
In the sense of 'replace it now or risk damaging the rest of the bike or injuring yourself in the future' or 'if you don't mind it wobbling a teeny bit, just keep an eye on it and if it keeps getting worse, chuck it"?
>he was too lazy to do it right
Random low-paid Chinese migrant dude at a Decathlon's in-store workshop, so maybe?
>>945541
Is there a snappier name for it than "Folding bicycle whose carrying case can be used as panniers when the bicycle is unfolded?"
Hello, 2 things:
One - can a tube with a presta valve be inflated with the use of gas station compressor (like a shrader)?
Two - the hell is the breaking modulation crap I keep hearing about? Am I using my brakes wrong?
Thank you.
>>945568
Buy an adapter for $1, modulation means there's a continuum of braking force and it isn't just on-off. It generally means if you apply varying amounts of force, you get correspondingly varying amounts of braking power, usually in a linear and predictable fashion, and without much deflection or sponginess, leading to a crisp and precise feeling.
>>945571
>Buy an adapter for $1
Obviously.
>modulation
I know what the word mean, I just don't get the idea behind it. If I need to slow down I pull them brakes a little bit and if I need to stop instantly I squeeze them hard.
Am I doing it wrong?
>>945572
Yes, maximum braking force is not locking up your wheels, and locking up your wheels makes you lose traction which is bad.
>>945572
Better modulation just means you have finer control of the braking force. It's more noticeable with higher braking forces, most brakes will be able to lock up either wheel if set up correctly and in good condition but those with good modulation will allow you to feather the brake right at the limit of locking up (if you've got the skill a rolling stoppy is probably a good measure of a decent front brake).
Favorito bike rack for beater steel MTBs? I'm looking for one with a flat top to put a milk crate for groceries or my backpack.
What's a good entry level CX bike with 105?
>>945545
Folding bike with trailer case is probably a good google search term.
Some people like bromptons etc. I went with bike friday because I weigh about 200lbs and usually have like 20-30 more of extra crap when touring. Keep in mind that a lot of manufacturers seem to have fairly low weight limits.
>>945545
Keep in mind that you're probably going to be using the case as a trailer rather than panniers. I'm having a hard time thinking of how the panniers wouldn't suck royally if they were also the bike case.
>>945615
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_572593_-1___
I was given a Raliegh Clubman frameset by a friend who was moving. Now I'm torn between putting the money into building it up or buying a bike for about the same amount.
After looking at 105 groupsets and getting decent quality parts and wheels, I'd probably be spending between $1000-1200 on getting the clubman pieced together.
Or would it be better spent towards something more modern like a Felt, Cannondale, Specialized, or Trek.
I already have a beater bike, a single speed and a fixed gear. It's been a while since I've had a quality road bike since my Bianchi was totaled by a car while my roommate was riding it.
>>945628
Just buy a new bike and donate the frame to a co-op, a bunch of people drop way fancier shit in mine.
>>945629
Not a bad idea. It's a "light-touring" bike, I think it's the 2008 model frameset and it's in nice shape.
But I'd almost rather have a dedicated CX or Road frame than try to fit that one into a role of doing both plus someone at the co-op might need it or use it for its intended use.
If I wanted to build a wheel with a wide rim would I also need a wide hub?
>>945669
You wouldn't need one, but wider would be preferred (a lower spoke angle, from 90 degrees, results in a laterally stronger wheel). That said hub flanges are generally similar widths for a certain hub width so unless you're also getting a new frame and fork there's not much you can do. Also this assumes that the spoke holes are offset, if they're centred (or very close) then the rim width makes absolutely no difference.
>>945679
Forgot to mention something else. If you're going really wide (like fat bike wide) then there can be issues with chain clearance due to the wider tyre, another reason why fat bikes have wider hubs and bottom brackets.
>>945536
>patch kit, or a spare tube?
I carry both. it's quicker to swap tubes, and easier work while your on the side of the road and its raining or whatever; and then just patch the bad tube at your leisure back home and keep swapping back and forth. but patch kits size and weight are nothing and if you get 2 or more flats on a ride, you need it.
>What's the shelf life like for a spare tube?
indefinite, in my experience.
>how much longer have my rims got before they're too grotesquely malformed to ride?
there may be a bright side here. you don't say if the bike is new or old, but if new, the wheels were machine made and therefore the spoke tension on the whole wheel was never right. if old, the spoke tension had been thrown off by abuse and maybe age. if so, then the mechanic re-truing it after replacing the spoke means the wheel is stronger now than it ever was since you've owned it. I would not sweat a mm of wobble at all.
>>945690
>I carry both. it's quicker to swap tubes, and easier work while your on the side of the road and its raining or whatever
Self adhesive patches are even quicker and take up next to no room. Pretty cheap too, think a pack of 6 from Topeak is like £3.
Any problem using tubes with tubeless compatible rims/tires ?
>>945703
No. That's how you deal with large tears or burps on the trail.
>>945536
Both. Always carry a few tubes. Major tube damage such as blowouts can't be fixed with patches. Good idea to take a patch kit as well, if for no other reason then in case you get unlucky and have multiple flats in one ride and run out of tubes. Or if you come across a qt3.14 girl cyclist who has a flat and needs help and your tubes don't fit her tires.
How can I get better at descending fast over craptastical pavement? I was going way slower than I know should be able to because I was worried about not seeing a pothole or losing traction over a bump.
>>945747
>I was going way slower than I know should be able to
HTFU
What do you guys think about seatpost shims?
Good or bad?
I've got an old Peugeot frame that needs a 26.2 seatpost and they're all either rusted or crappy/look like shit. I was thinking about putting a shim in for a 25.4 seatpost which would give me more options. Any reason not to shim?
>>945699
but if you get a pinhole leak, hunting it down is aggravating and time consuming. with a spare tube, there's no guesswork; you pull one off and put the other on, inflate and go.
>>945747
always be scanning the road between 10-15 meters out and your front wheel, learn to read what you see and pick your line.
>>945757
>What do you guys think about seatpost shims?
Completely shit and may ruin your frame by not supporting the seatpost far enough down the tube. At least make sure they reach below the top tube and fit snug.
>>945760
Still worth it as a first choice, most holes can be found and patched faster than removing the wheel and putting a new tube in. Not that the time difference matters (only compared to glued patches and waiting around for them to dry) and you've still got to pump it up afterwards. The main benefit is not having to mess around with removing the wheel, especially if it's the rear.
