Old one is on autosage. Would fancier wheels reduce the amount of windup flex from braking with disc brakes? More spokes? Different spokes? Different lacing? I switched a few months ago and I find the flexing a little bit disconcerting.
>>893656
I believe that disc-brake (and possibly drum brake?) front wheels are supposed to be cross-laced and never radially-laced. Hopefully somebody else can explain this further.
I'm curious: can a bike with an internal-gear hub be equipped with double or triple front chainrings via use of a chain tensioner?
(pic unrelated)
>>893658
Yes it can
Also that's a nice paintjob
I'm just getting into riding again. Commuting to work the other day was so much fun I decided I'm gonna start going on longer rides as long as it doesn't interfere with my weight training.
Anyway, i don't think there's a c25k style program for cycling. There's really not a need. There's no limiting factor when it comes to riding continuously like there is running. Buuuut. How do you get better as a complete beginner?
For todays ride, I took it easy. I made sure I was capable of singing (Don't you want me, baby? *gasp gasp gasp* Don't you want me? Oh! *gasp gasp*) whilst riding - as long as no one was around. Ride was around an hour, averaged 19.9km/h, but I had a head wind for 75% of the ride unfortunately. Do I keep doing this for awhile (easy, fairly short distance) rides for awhile until my aerobic capacity is built up a little more and then throw in sprint training, intervals, long sessions, short all outs?
Not really training for anything specific. Although there's a sprint tri or a TT that I could possibly do after I finish training for my powerlifting meet. I just gotta go faster, harder or further with everything I do.
>>893672
Remember noob gains?
You're going to have those with cycling too. Just keep at it.
Once you plateau you'll need to actually think about your goals (endurance? speed? etc). For instance KOM-addled crabbon-dependent roadies and the endurance steelisreal rando carradice crowd look down on one another for good reason: the two are mutually exclusive.
>>893674
So, just keep riding at a comfortable pace and let things increase? Then base training around a specific goal?
That's easy enough I guess. I'll probably through in some sprint work pretty soon anyway. Finding an hour + to spend on the bike isn't easy when I'm in the gym for 2 hours 4 times a week.
>>893656
>flex from braking with disc brakes
That might be your fork twisting (this is why thru-axles exist), might be the wheel flexing, might be you don't have enough pressure in your tires. First thing I would do is check your spoke tension on the existing wheel - odds are that if you've ridden several months without spoke breakage issues the spokes are pretty evenly tensioned, but depending on your wheel you might be able to bring the tension up further and stiffen the wheel up. If that doesn't solve your problem, then I think the next thing would be to find an alternate pair of wheels to try out.
My back doesn't hurt anymore when I ride my bike, but my wrists do. I'm guessing that means my reach is too short? Is there a way to fix this?
>>893687
Wrist pain can come from putting too much of your body weight over the bars, but it can also be from riding with an uncomfortable twist in the way you hold the bars. There are a lot of variables here, so start by looking very closely at your hand position, see if you can figure out whether the pain is come from straining to reach something.
I have a late 90's MTB frame that differs from the general diamond shape by having the top tube actually slope down from the seat tube forward. So the top tube meets the down tube quite a few inches aft from the down tube-head tube weld.
Essentially, it's a small diamond, with a head tube on a stick cantilevered to it.
What's the point of this frame design? Why isn't it around anymore?
>>893730
do you have any pics?
What does it mean when people quack at you as a cyclist?
Little confused on what I should be looking for with fenders. I've got 27 1/4" wheels. That would mean that a 26" fender wouldn't fit, right? I know that 700c tires/fenders are rather thin, so that's probably not what I should get. Is there a 28" fender available? Would a 27" fit?
>>893800
27" wheels are bigger than 28"/700c. You need 27" fenders.
How do I turn this into a commuter bike? The wheels are fucked. What do I need to change and what do I need to get? I live in Miami.
>>893790
You're doing that duck waddle slow cadence thing that MTB and BMX riders do.
Use a lower gear and try to ride in a straight line.
>>893804
Are those plastic brake levers? I would not ride with cars without upgrading to something worth trusting my life to. What do the wheels need, spoke trueing or bearings or what? Is that saddle comfy? Only you can decide but it doesn't look it. Otherwise just toss on commuter equipment like fenders, lights, rack or basket, etc.
This is a disposable BSO; a new BSO will be cheaper than upgrading it piecemeal. If you commute every day a real bike will pay for itself in time and trouble very quickly.
>>893804
Throw that shit into a river
>>893804
Damn nigga
Triple crankset on an ashtabula bottom bracket
That's some weird niggery there
>>893850
Your gears are fine, you just have to learn how to use them. Clean and lube the chain, raise the saddle to proper height , and go for a ride to play with the shifters, you'll figure it out.
Oh and get 2" slick tires
Got a new hybrid. The stock riser handlebar in its current state feels way too wide, and the stem feels too short and too elevated.
LBS advised me to give the bike in its stock form a chance for a week, figure out what I want to alter and then come back for free chopping and stem replacement.
What should I do to figure out the fit and alterations that need to be made?
is there a fit gain on bike commute? I mean... will I lose weith if I commute around 18km per day (29km/h average speed/ 45 min)
I have a bike thats is 54cm but according to my own measurements I need a 52 or perhaps even smaller frame
Height:170cm or 5feet6 ish
Inseam 78cm avr(measured 6 times with not more than 1 cm deviance)
Its a road racer with a very short top tube and now that ive started making longer trips I feel like the frame is too long,I need to hunch over too much.
Is it my (bad)flexibility?
Is it the road racer's agressive position?
Is there anywhere I can educate myself on this (esp. the bike feeling "too long)?
>>893876
It's possible lack of flexibility or core strength is an issue? Do you do stretches or core workouts?
It's also entirely possible it is too long. Any idea what length the stem is, and how far up or down is it?
>>893730
The goal would have been to reduce standover height and produce a lighter frame. Lots of funky frame designs were tried in the 90's but went away because the 'compact' style does those two things better.
>>893800
>>893945
I love fenders - for plastic fenders I'd rank them as follows (note they're all quite good, and there are definitely way worse fenders out there):
1. PB Cascadia - absolute best coverage and stability
2. SKS Chromo - about the same as Cascadias but the hardware is slightly less nice to work with
3. Bontrager NCS - easiest installation of any fender I've ever dealt with but slightly less stable
4. PB Hardcase - like the Bonts but not as easy to install, don't buy these if you can get Cascadias instead
>>893876
You need to find someone to look at your posture on the bike, in person, or take a picture that shows us - there's too many variables involved to give you much of an answer otherwise.
>>893868
Will you get fitter by riding your bike more? Yes. Will you lose weight? Probably, but it also depends how much you're eating and what the rest of your day looks like.
>>893800
it's kind of like with tubes, 700 and 27 are fairly interchangeable. you just need to convert 1/4" into mm and pay attention to the widths on the fender specs. the more retrogrouchy stores will list the fenders as compatible with both. Also, make sure you have fork clearance and if your brake has a recessed nut on the back of the fork, you'll need to shell out $15 extra for a measly hunk of metal known as "Sheldon's Fender Nuts."
I ride the same, 27x1/4. bought fenders last spring. went with Velo Orange, personally.
>>893876
It's both. I'm 176cm and ride a 54cm bike and it's still just a tiny bit too large for me, so since you're even shorter, that'll be more of an issue.
It does take time to adequate yourself to a more "aero" position, and with time you won't feel like you're hunching over so much, but if I were you I'd strongly consider getting a smaller frame
What's a good brand/model of snow stud tire? I don't want to stop commuting this winter.
>>893968
I did some research, and it seems as though I'm sitting on 32mm tires. I'm hoping something like this will work. I read that I could try 35mm fenders, but the fit might cause problems. You think this'll work?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F663XMU?colid=2MTXTJ8H50CDM&coliid=I1RALEA1GSNVK6&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl
What were the Velo Orange fenders you got?
How tight and long should a jersey be? If I raise my arms and expose my belly button, is that too short?
>>893658
>>893666
you can run an IGH with a triple or double, but be sure to check with the manufacturer's tech docs. A lot of those IGHs have a minimum gear ratio, which is done to limit the amount of torque put onto the hub. Going beneath that ratio can break your hub, because as you gear down, you are applying a lot more torque on the hub.
I haven't worked on many IGHs, but a lot of old salt mechanics I have spoken with make it seem like it isn't the best platform for a bicycle, unless you are building a townie. Not reliable enough for touring, not stout enough for mountain bicycling, and not light enough for racing. What is wrong with derailleur gears?
Does the term "cager" mean all car drivers, or just the ones who are assholes?
>>894097
Just the assholes pretty much, "cagers" are people who are mentally wedded to their cars, which makes them hostile or oblivious to motorcycle riders, cyclists, and pedestrians.
>>894093
There are different cuts and fits for jerseys, but if it doesn't cover your waist when you stretch your arms it's definitely too small.
>>894099
Ah ok. Thanks for that.
>>894075
http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/vo-45mm-polished-smooth-fenders.html
I don't thnk 35mm will work. these 45s give plenty room on my 1/4"s without looking out-of-place big.
these are the aluminum ones. they make the same in chromed steel. I went alu thinking same diff and muh grams, but they scratch if you so much as breathe on them, so I'd go chrome if had to do it over. the alu scratches are not visible except up close but it irks me.
I've got an old aluminium cannondale bike - very fucking light and speedy, but the bumps are ripping my body apart.
Anything I can do to make it a little less of a jarring experience? I might even just buy a new frame.
>>894184
What tires are you running and at what PSI? I had a very stiff 'dale for a while and it was perfectly comfortable with Veloflex Masters.
Anyone know what would cause a CK nothreadset bearing cap to not ride flush on the upper cup? I usually do my own work but someone nicked my cup press so I had to take it to the bikeshop. Im kind of cool with those guys so I don't want to run in there claiming they fucked up my headset unless im 100% its not my fault. I have the park tool to do the removal and I know I did it right, but even if I didn't I cant see how banging the bottom could fuck up the top. both the upper cup and bearing cap appear to still be flat where they meet but they just will not sit flush and there is about a 30+ degree arc where the two seem to rub. it doesnt matter how I place the bearing cap, it always rubs in the same area (roughly 9 oclock to 11 if you were riding) so I think its something to do with the upper cup, but like I said everything looks good. Any suggestions?
>>894186
I'm not sure. I can't see the markings anymore. They're good training tires, i remember doing some research to pick out something decent, although they're skinny as fuck. PSI is about 90-100, i'm a heavy fucker.
I've been thinking about getting some new wheels and tires anyway. Would thicker tires help out? If only because more air to act as a cushion? Also, my wheels are pretty light and the roads around here are completely fucked. I'd rather not bend the shit out of them cause of all the potholes and shit.
What sort of cannondale? Mine is a an r400 - the first model they did in aluminium. She' almost as old as I am - but fuck she's a little goer.
>>894194
I'm running 28-622s on my SR400. I'm a fat fuck, though, so I don't get unsettled by bumps very easily. Depending on your rear dropout width (mine's 126mm :C), you could get the widest wheelset that will fit your brakes and go on from there.
C'dale always made Al frames, but the pre-1989 models paired with a CroMoly fork; after that, they switched to an Al unicrown design. If you have a 1-inch steerer, Nashbar and some British firm both make carbon fiber forks that will fit and possibly eliminate some road vibration through the 'bars. Thick 'bar tape should also help. Not sure what can be done about seatpost vibrations because I'm too heavy for anything but a Thomson. Maybe an old-school leather-sling saddle?
>>894096
>Going beneath that ratio can break your hub, because as you gear down, you are applying a lot more torque on the hub.
Aren't you supposed to shift IGHs under no load, or is that unrelated?
Why does my chain not engage into the teeth when I shift into the big chainring? It sits oddly ontop and then falls off between the crank. Does it matter that I'm using a 9 speed derailleur on a 10 speed setup?
>>894368
Sounds like a new chain on worn teeth. Post a photo.
>>894373
I just put on a whole new drivetrain except for the fd. High limit screw is as far in as possible. I have 1mm of clearance between fd and chainring.... I'm befuddled.
>>894380
FD has nothing to do with your chain not engaging with a chainring, so stop fiddling with it. It's either a worn chain or a worn chainring.
New to cycling, just got a Sedona DX and I like how it feels like a "real" bike compared to the cruisers like Electra i've been riding my whole life. What are some good learning resources for things like gear, stance/form, just how to not be a greenhorn when it comes to this?
Anyone have any experience with Fulcrum wheels? Specifically Racing 3s.
Thank.
>>894526
IIRC, Fulcrum is a Campy budget brand. Might want to ask on other forums for feedback.
>>894438
sheldonbrown.com
>>894526
Fulcrum is just campy wheels for people who can't abide campy on their shimano bikes. You really can't go wrong. They are and have always been top notch. My 8 speed Zondas were 10/10 and i really like my new sriroccos although can't speak to longevity. Campy is actually slightly cheaper. Campy Zonda is the equivelant to 3s i think, bit cheaper.
I've got some trouble with this bike, the rear derailleur is acting fucky, the rear wheel won't sit straight when set in the frame (possibly too many nigger tier straightening jobs by me) and has to be locked at a slight angle for the brakes to set right, the rear rim is really worn from braking I suppose since it's concave on the brake surface while the front is flat, and just now I bent back the front fork running over a curb.
Is it worth repairing all these issues?
>>894650
Fork closeup, no easily visible cracks.
>>894645
>>Fulcrum is just campy wheels for people who can't abide campy on their shimano bikes.
I think campy wheels on a shimano bike would be kind of funny. Doubly so on mine since it's "team" colours and has the shimano logo on the chainstays.
>>894652
holy fuck no.
throw the thing in a dumpster.
it's barely worth the effort of salvaging parts.
>>894662
That bad, huh?
>>894678
desu I agree with the other anon, however everything is fixable if you want to waste the money and time on it... Since its all run down and broken I know you dont ride it much. Go get yourself something new... try a used cx bike maybe.
>>894650
Get a new RD
Get a new fork
Get a new rear wheel (alternatively, buy a new set of spokes and have it rebuilt with the same rim and hub)
No big deal
>>894678
I agree with previous poster - this bike is not worth spending money on. Your fork might still be rideable if you are not heavy and you never hit a bump again in your life. The rear rims sound like they are done and need replacement(new wheel) I would guess that your entire drive train (casette, chain, chainrings - derailleurs) all need to be replaced. Brakes need new pads. To get this thing up and running in good shape again will run at least $100- $150 just on parts - if you can't do the work your self I would double that for labor.
TL;DR your bike will cost as much as a buying a decent used bike.
Bummer
>>894679
>>894680
>>894682
Alright, it's not a huge deal for it to be imperfect, so long as it's safe for 3 more years. A replacement fork and rear rim replacement seem to be in order, probably brake pads and chain too.
It's been kept outside and ridden about 2 miles nearly every day for about a year now, and it was doing about 5 miles a day for a year but was stored inside before then. It's quick and decently agile for campus riding, hybrid tires helped a lot. I keep the tires full and the chain oiled, it's only needed a replacement once. It's been good so far so I'll stick with it.
>>894691
uhhhgggg I bet you could find a used one for $100
>>894693
Could I get a rigid frame bike I could fit wide (1.5-2") hybrid tires and fenders on, with disc brakes and a decent range of gears for that much?
>>894698
sure you could probably find one for free too.
>>894700
Really? Not some piece of shit?
>>894703
of course, just need some bolt cutters
I have a 700c front wheel I want to convert to a disc brake wheel. Can I just change the hub, re-lace the wheel and add disc brake? Can I use same spokes and same lace pattern?
>>894834
It's a really rare chance that the new hub dimensions would allow you to use the same length spokes, but it is possible as long as your spokes aren't radially laced.
Bike newbie here, is there a big difference between road bike frames and mountain bike frames? If I wanted to make my own hybrid commuter would the frame make a huge impact? I know that I want handlebars for an upright riding position and road/hybrid wheels.
>>894915
Big difference, but you can commute on either type comofrtably.
>>894834
you need to have brake caliper mounting nuts on the fork or frame, to even consider disc brakes, and no as disc hubs are laced differently to rim brakes as they need to be offset because of the disc.
>>894925
My fork allows for disc brake installation I think. The mount is there. This is the one: http://www.srsuntour-cycling.com/cs/bike/forks/NVX-NVX-5000.html
I guess then buying whole wheel with disc and just swap it will be less of a hassle.
>>894922
What kind of difference?
>>894930
well all of them work with the same diamond shape but slight differences in length and angles of tubes have impact on your ride position, stiffness, handling etc.
Road bikes are stiff so they can be efficient in transfering your muscle power to wheels. They make your body position itself to narrower and lower shape for aerodynamics and speed. They have shorter wheel base and more vertical front fork so they can feel more "twitchy" as people describe it, but its just a matter of getting used to it. They also usually allow for only narrow road wheels (well forks do anyway), they have less holes in them for bolt-on stuff useful for commuting like fenders, pannier racks etc. Good for covering long distances fast.
Mountain bikes vary much more among themselves because you have hardtails, full suspension, DH bikes with ridiculously sloped/squished frames and so on. They are more relaxed, have much lower gearing, upright seating position, allow for wide knobby tires, have wider handlebars for more precise control but this can be a disadvantage in city when filtering through traffic. Slower and can handle all terrain types + snow if you plan to winter commute.
For commuting, most people prefer a hybrid with rigid fork and drops, or older 10-speeds, singlespeeds and 90s rigid mtn bikes. Also folders. Cyclocross bikes are an option as well, particularly if a portion of your usual route is gravel or weird shortcuts through fields, parks or whatever.
>>894935
Would this be a good commuter bike? And if I wanted to put wider mtb wheels on this would I be able to?
https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/bik/5270104936.html
>>894941
The front suspension will fuck you. Or looks like it hasn't been well maintained. But alreast its got a dyno light. That's something with keeping when you eventually upgrade
When I was riding on my trainer today I spent a bit of time, maybe 5-10 min in the drops. Now my neck is sore as fuck.
What did am I doing wrong?
i want flat resistant 700 25c tires on the cheap. how are these?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KENDA-KRITERIUM-ENDURANCE-700-X-23-25-Road-Bike-Tires-Race-Train-2x-Flat-Guard-/371277287535?var=&hash=item5671d9d06f:m:mv2uUOqYQlKtcmSa9XZnL5w
what inner tubes should i get or does it really not matter? couldn't find any flat resistant tubes on ebay. do they not make slime/thick innter tubes for road bikes?
>>895032
Few reviews around the net seem positive. I wouldn't personally buy kenda tyres again after my experience with other models of theirs, but at $40 a pair, why not?
>>895032
>kenda
that's everything you need to know m80
>>894941
The bike itself and the equipment it has would make a great commuter. Its essentially a city bike already from the factory. Its got fenders, pannier baskets, dynamo lights, stand, comfy seat and handlebars, chain protection...
IMHO its worth it if the frame size is good for your height and it has no major mechanical issues.
I dont see why would you have to have mountain bike tires on it since the gearing wouldnt allow you to go nuts in the woods. If traction on snow/slush/gravel is your concern because of winter commuting and/or part of your route involving gravel = well this bike already has grippy tires.
>>895039
dog, he's in orange county.
>>895041
I am eurofag, I didnt pay attention to that.
I noticed how the large chainring is really worn. Some of it is even chipped off.
I bought this bike from my LBS, new, a few months ago. I've probably done 100-150 miles on it.
Sorry it looks so dirty, I haven't got my own cleaning supplies yet. And I just went on a really gritty path.
Do you think I could go over to the bike shop and just tell them they gave me a bike with a used chainring, and they should replace it? Is it even possible for the chainring to be this worn with heavy use after only a few months?
You can see how bad it is compared to the small chainring.
>>895178
take it the the shop and see what they have to say about it.
you better clean that shit before you go there though.
Best bar tape? I have heard good things about Fizik Performance Tacky Touch.
>>895178
It looks like you oiled your chain with too much oil and too often and didn't wipe that shit off, and then rode around shitty routes in the rain. It's gonna do a number on your drivetrain.
For cleaning supplies, get a big bottle of kerosene, and a KMC chain which will come with a quicklink and save you cleaning the chain this time. Riding it like that will make your shit wear so quickly. Disconnect it and shake in a bottle with kerosene until the kerosene is clear to clean it. Filter the kerosene. Clean your chainrings on the bike with a rag and kerosene, but use it sparsely. Take the rear wheel out, undo the skewer, and remove the cassette with a chainwhip and a cassette lockring tool. The cogs should seperate, take note of where the spacers go and remove to clean easily. If the cassette is riveted together, don't bother. Don't do that often or half ass it because doing nothing would be better than cleaning it badly. The rings aren't really worn at all though. Don't trip about it. I doubt you've been rused.
>>895178
>150 miles
>it already looks like that
what the fuck are you doing with your bike senpai
So my dick is numb and doesn't have much feeling after about an hour of cycling, is this normal?
>>895189
is it ever normal to have your dick numb?
>>895191
How do I rectify this?
>>895179
worst advice ever. LBS are still a business, and although a few of them might care about their customers the majority just want to make as much money as possible...
"oh anon you are going to need an entire new set of cranks and derailleur and of course new pedals since these obviously wont work with the new cranks.... here I have this set up for about $1k.."
>>895189
An hour is a bit quick... I did a century a few weeks ago and had a numb dick after like 5 hours.
Does your saddle have a cutout? If not, maybe get one that does. Mine doesn't either but I'm saving my shekels for pic related.
>>895193
not every shop is run/staffed by assholes.
This is going to sound stupid, but does "10-speed" mean that I have 10 gears to shift between? And if that's the case, and my bike, for example, only seems to shift between 3 gears, that would be an indication that I need to adjust my derailleur, right?
>>895189
Does your saddle look like this?
If so, get something firm and narrow.
>>895201
multiply the amount of chain rings in the front by the amount of gears/cogs in the back and that is the amount of speeds you have. So ten speed is two in the front, five in the back.
check this out http://sheldonbrown.com/gears.html
>>895187
Thanks man, I actually know how to clean the bike at a bare minimum. I wanted to take it apart to clean, so thanks for the advice.
If I'm going to remove the cassette, could I dunk the bearings in a pot of kerosene? The balls separately so I don't lose them. I went through a flood, and I'd like to be prepared for winter. Centrifugal motion seems to have kept the water out, but I want to be sure they will be lubed enough.
I thought kerosene wasn't safe because the exterior of the chain will flash corrode. Although if it's stainless I suppose it doesn't matter.
>>895193
They're not that forward about it. It's a popular shop around here so if the damage before I bought it is legit, I could at least put a negative review online.
I should do this first >>895179 it's so dirty though. i'll need to wait longer for some free time lol.
I don't want to wait too long, but the other poster said it wasn't so bad. The chain isn't worn at all, so I don't know how it could look like this.
Any idea why one of nobs on the chainring might have chipped off? I know it's not a big deal. Is it just my negligence? I didn't think it would wear so fast, after only 100-150 miles without cleaning it.
>>895188
I went through a flood, but it looked fine and performed fine afterwards. I'll have to take it apart to be sure, when I use it more. Especially with winter coming.
>>895195
How do you sit on that? I've tried one shaped like it, in a race position, and it felt too small at my butt.
hi there, need your advice as i have no real life bike friends and i dont wanna get ripped off by local bike shops.
i have this 13-15 year old 3x7 Trek 6000, i use it to do sport and for commuting, 500-600miles per month, bougth it to a friend like a year ago. (by the way i just returned to biking after 10 years away from it due to health problems, thats why im so lost in everythig and have to ask).
long story short. i just broke the chain, i know it was fucked up so no prblem, 2 questions then:
-i should also change the cassette and chainset right? (cant change just the chainrings as i dont know where to find other chainrings that fit the cranks).
-what should i go for? im in southamerica so local market is more limited but i should be able to get normal stuff... i want to use the same gear shifters (3x7)... and im looking for something not so expensive but that lasts..something that fits the bike in general (old but decent, dont care about looks etc). the only thing i should note is that the heavier gear is 42/11 and i dont want to loose that option..
so im looking at a
SHIMANO CS-HG20 12/32 7V
with
SHIMANO FC-M371-S 44/32/22
or
SHIMANO FC-M131 48/38/28
crank lenght is 170mm while my old ones are 175mm, is that gonna be noticeable?
sorry for such a long post and crappy english, ill post more pics of crucial parts of y bike,thanks.
And telling my LBS I took my bike apart to clean it, and that I only noticed how it looked when I looked closely, may be more convincing. I can say I have more time now, so I wanted it extra clean for the winter when I will bike more.
>>895211
here tha bike, i love it
>>895211
cassette,yeah its filthy and beaten
>>895211
brakes (and shifters i suppose) are also shimano STX RC
>>895211
another view of the chainrings.. wont post more pics but if someone needs another let me know, and thanks for your time guys
>>895211
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#wear
>>895215
Smallest cog looks really worn.
>>895217
Looks as bad as mine, so supposedly it should be fine: >>895178
18.5% of the distance from the top of the femur to the floor in bare feet should be the crank length.
Comfort wise, I think it's the same as long as you adjust the seat accordingly. But you will have more power with the 175mm if your leg is the length that requires it.
>>895211
Depending on the clearance, you might not be able to fit a crankset with larger rings. I had 22 on the small rings and couldn't install 28's due to the larger diameter of the smaller ring. Make sure the place you buy from has a good return policy.
As for commuting, getting anything larger than 25 for casettes is just silly unless you have hills that goes on for over 10 minutes.
i just tried fixing a flat tire for the first time ever with my road bike and while putting the tire back on i punctured the tube with the butter knifes i was using, fuck me im so frustrated. should i just use tire levers from now on
>>895249
>should i just use tire levers from now on
You shouldn't have to ask that.
Also you can reseat most tyres without it. Push the bead around from both sides.
I am completely new to biking and I want to buy a bike to commute to and from work. I found this one on CL and its in my size but I dont know if this is a good deal.
https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/bik/5300803553.html
What do i need to add to make this a commuter? I was going to add some lights and fenders, but i want to know if there is anything else to help with the longevity of the bike and comfort of the commute.
>>895273
>but i want to know if there is anything else to help with the longevity of the bike and comfort of the commute.
Rack + pannier(s) if you want to be more comfortable carrying things. No idea if it's a good deal, sorry.
I recently installed new brake pads (friction brakes) and whenever I brake, there's this horrible squeaking sound that's super fucking loud.
How do I stop that sound from happening?
>>895275
Is your rim clean? Are the pads toed in?
out of all of these bikes which ones have the best quality/most reliable parts? I am looking for a city bike to commute with.
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/rover1.htm
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/oxford_deluxe.htm
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/gravity/swift-flatbar-hybrid-21.htm
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/flat-bar-hybrid-road-bikes/rapide-hybrid-flatbar-road.htm
>>895282
I'd go for the Oxford if your commute is relatively flat and you're not too concerned with going sanic. Coming with rack and fenders is good, IGH means less maintenance.
The Rapide is probably lighter, has more gears. If you have hills, it's a better choice.
Wouldn't even consider the other two.
>>895275
Point the brake pad tips slightly forward, downwards.
>>895273
Buy long fenders to make it easy for commuting.
Change the chain.
Clean and lube.
You're looking at an '89 bike. $275 is too much. You could offer $175, or $160 if the gears look worn. Jostle the crankshaft hard to see if it moves on the bottom bracket, and spin the wheels, pedals, etc, to see if there are any sounds/wobbling or there is a lot of skipping with the gears. It's not worth the repair cost if there are problems with those.
It appears to be kept in good shape from those crappy pictures. You should check the gears and chain before you buy, to see how worn they are. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#wear
>>895283
thanks for the help but I noticed another one and can't decide between these 2
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/gravity/swift-flatbar-hybrid-pro.htm
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/flat-bar-hybrid-road-bikes/rapide-hybrid-flatbar-road.htm
>>895293
Rapide has higher specs all around. The only thing the other one seems to have over it is discs, which I'd be skeptical of at that price level.
is going from 175 cranks to 170 noticeable? if it is , does it take long to adapt? does is suck? thanks
>>895296
thanks, gonna buy it now, can't wait to start riding
>>895298
If you're used to 175, then yes going to 170 would definitely be noticeable, and I'd expect it would take you at least a few weeks to adapt to riding at a higher cadence. Whether you should do so and will appreciate from such a change will be a matter of preference and leg length.
>>895300
im short, not tall at all. 1.65mts on 18" frame.
also im working on getting my cadence higher. i was riding heavy gears at low cadences all the time till recently. would the change be good for me? or is it better if i keep training with long cranks? thanks
>>895309
Yeah, if you're that short, and assuming your leg length is proportional, 170mm will almost certainly work and feel much nicer for you (less rocking across the saddle) than 175mm.
>>895309
>Mixing unit systems
>Abusing SI prefixes and unit symbols
Please re-read the SI Brochure
I have a road bike I plan on riding through winter on varied terrain, what lube will keep the chain new and clean?
Any carr routine I should have?
Whats the name of this above? I mean what is it called when its like this?
>>895478
hipster shit
>>895478
There's not a name for it, other than "low seat stays" or "short seat stays"
>>895478
I've heard them called mid-stays, but yeah I don't think there's a proper term.
>>895470
Nothing will keep your chain perfectly new and clean aside from a chain guard. If you can't run that, hopefully you've got fenders at the very least which will keep your chain cleaner a little longer. So assuming your chain is going to get dirty and salty over the winter, the best thing to do is to plan regular maintenance - apply a wet style chain lube before snow starts falling, dry your chain after wet rides, and degrease and reapply chain lube more frequently than you do during summertime.
>>895478
Cippolini makes some pretty nice-looking frames like this.
>>895486
The NUKE is fucking ridiculous and I really want one.
>>895185
Preference, but I favor cinelli cork or deda
>>895185
Can't go wrong with Fizik Superlight
>>895185
I like Bontrager Gel Cork.
Cheap, holds up for a long time, comfy, many different colors available.
>>895185
I am pleased with prologo one touch, gonna try their micro touch next
is this the best i can do for $45 as far as security goes? i'll soon take a picture of the serial on the bike alongside my picture ID to be safe as well. Also i'll be leaving my bike in front on the garden center on the cage while i work inside overnight, would this be alright?
http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Mini-7-4-Foot-Flex-Lock/dp/B004C94T84
>>895567
at the walmart i work at i should say
I'm trying to tune my front derailleur
The stop limit screws don't seem to do shit
I've turned the outside set screw to the point where it can't go any tighter, and to the point where I've completely unscrewed it. either way the chains still rubbing against the outside.
I'm close to just taking this shit into an LBS because I can't get the fucking thing just simply tuned
>>895567
>>895584
$45 is actually more than you need to spend because there's practically no difference in theft-prevention between a $200 U-lock and a U-lock made out of tinfoil painted black. Anyone with proper tools can break any bike lock if they really want to - the point of locks is to keep opportunists and otherwise honest people from considering walking off with your bike by making it appear annoyingly time-consuming to steal.
Just get a basic, cheap U-lock to connect the frame and rear wheel to something solid, and a basic, cheap combination cable lock (not a looped cable that's dependent on the U-lock like the one you've linked to) for your front wheel. Should total less than $30.
>>895588
is the crank arm all the way on the BB spindle?
is part of the front derailer mechanism bumping into a fender or chainguard?
do you have the cable routed correctly?
are you drunk/tired and turning the wrong limit screw?
>>895588
Did you strip out the screws?
Dearest /n/erds.
I've been cycling on an old road bike for a while now, quite a few problems have arose as it was in storage for over 20 years.
It was given a service, the tyres and inner tubes changed, the wheels trued, the chain and hub all checked.
It's an absolute hoot and I've not looked back at buying a car.
However- yesterday I was cycling down a pretty hefty hill and as I was approaching the bottom my left foot started to wobble side to side as I peddled which I soon realised the crank arm was barely hanging on to the bottom bracket and upon getting off and walking it, it fell off.
Today I re-attached the crank arm and gave the fucker an almighty wrench and after 2 scoops of pre-workout I was foaming at the mouth to get to the gym. But alas! our intrepid adventurer soon noticed it was already wobbling side to side again.
Needless to say, I got to the gym, and had a smashing time.
tl;dr How2fix crank arm so not wobble any more, pls.
>>895652
Sounds like you probably need a new one.
>>895652
Put some loctite on the locking bolt thread before you tighten it
>>895652
nigga you torque it correctly?
use a torque wrench cause like even tho u sound swole as fuck you properly arent tightening it to shit.
So go buy a torque wrench and get it done correctly before you die, please be safe delicious swole bike brother.
>>895652
next time it falls off, take a look at the back of your crank arm. The taper might be ovalized/wallowed. You'll have to replace it with another crank arm that is the same taper and length,
http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B011AD2FIU
Would you buy one of these? I can't find any legitimate reviews or websites showcasing this company. Fluid trainers are minimum $400 so I was looking for something cheaper and quiet for the winter.
>>895734
I wouldn't buy a cheap one. They're going to be noisy and not as sturdy of construction.
I was given a late 80's mountain bike and curious if they are sized the same way as road bikes?
I'm 5'10" (178cm) with an inseam of 32" (81cm). The bike has a seat and top tube length of 22.5" (57cm). I feel that the bike isn't too tall but I feel pretty stretched out. I'm not sure if this is normal considering the geometry.
Pic related. Tech (CycleTech) Nova Pro.
>>895765
>but I feel pretty stretched out.
Well check out that fucking long ass stem
>>895767
Hah, I should mention that I will be swapping the stem out for a quill adapter. I just want some background knowledge before I embark on changing the handling just so that I can fit the bike.
>>895765
>if they are sized the same way as road bikes?
They're not, google bike sizing chart. That said, I'm not sure the difference.
From the looks of the seat stays and headtube that is one big ol' bike.
I have Shimano XC-61's right now and my LBS has some Giro Privateer's for 50% off (~$75 US).
The center strap on the XC-61's kinda bugs me because if i cinch it too tight then the strap overhangs and catches on the crankarm. Other than that they're pretty good.
The Privateers are one size smaller but the XC-61's are probably a little big.
Should I buy 'em?
>>895788
Try them on dummy. Shoes are too important to have a good fit to not try them on first.
I personally found M088s god tier in terms of fit, and the Giro had too small a toe box. Others will find it the other way.
Best spd shoes for road riding? I keep reading abotu sidi dominators, what is so good about them, what are the alternatives?
>>895834
Best shoes are the ones that FUCKING FIT YOU
If they fit in your budget too that's good.
>>895233
haha itching to do mine too
>>895834
>I've never used clipless and I'm just gonna drop $300 on a pair of bike shoes that I read about in a mountain biking magazine
jesus christ
you can get perfectly good MTB shoes for $100-200. less if you're really poor.
spend more time riding and less time reading press releases.
>>895848
http://www.wiggle.com.au/sidi-dominator-5-fit-mtb-shoe/
And thats AUD
>>895849
>what are the alternatives to ONE FUCKING SHOE
>b-but it's ok because see here's a pair on sale for $210
Like the other guy said, buy the ones that fit. This isn't an inner tube, it's a fucking shoe. Go to the store, try some on, and buy a pair that fits YOUR feet.
>>895851
No need to get upset friend, they are on sale and in my research they were highly recommended. As no bike shops around me stock them I was gathering opinions on them to see whether they were worth buying sight unseen or whether I should go with one my local shops do stock.
Lets just relax and be friends here.
Are touring bikes okay for commuting?
>>895870
They're close to ideal for a pure bike commute
If you have train segments or expect a lot of snow and packed ice, then you may want a folder or an MTB so you can fit studded tires, but outside of that scenario, yes. More than ok.
Of course if your commute is like many people on /n/ (3 blocks each way), then it doesn't matter. Get a dutch bike and commute in wingtips and a jacket and tie.
>>895820
I have tried them on. They fit well. My question is whether or not they're worth buying.
>>895871
Commute of about 18-19km desu going on rural roads, bridleways and cycle paths.
Touring bikes are tough aren't they, do they handle dirt tracks and mud alright?
>>895895
>tough
>dirt tracks and mud
That's less a question of tough and more a question of tire choice. If you're going to have to ride through mud then you should just get an MTB or even a fatbike. Touring bikes with fast and narrow tires are just going to sink into the mud even if you have something of a tread pattern.
>>895900
I meant is the bike going to be able to take some punishment and not collapse.
Fuck getting a mtb just for a couple of dirt tracks that get muddy when it rains. I rode on the track today on a hybrid with stock 38c wheels which are shit and it was fine desu
>>895913
Do you weigh 370 pounds? Are you planning on doing stunt downhill riding on 24 spoke chinese carbon rims shod in 23mm rubber? Then yeah you might want to consider something more robust if you want your wheels to remain true.
Otherwise, the only thing that is going to make your bike "collapse" is getting hit by a cage.
>>895922
I kek'd, cheers.
What is the absolute best bike security i can invest in? I am absolutely paranoid about someone stealing it
>>896122
Kryptonite Fahgeddaboudit to lock the rear wheel to a rack (if the lock passes through the rear triangle, then locking the wheel also results in the frame being locked because the wheel cannot pass through the triangle)
And a Kryptonite New York chain lock which you will run through both wheels, the frame, and the rack you lock it to (you may have to remove the front wheel if the chain is too short, but they make pretty long ones)
Use these two things in conjunction
You could also consider an Abus folding lock because they are fairly new and fairly uncommon, meaning that while thieves know how to break u-locks and chain locks, they may not know how to break folding locks
Also note that the Fahgeddaboudit I recommended is good because it is small meaning there is not much room for leverage for thieves using leverage tools. Also note that u-lock+chain lock is better than two of the same type because that means they require two different tools to steal the bike to break two types of locks.
Make sure to not leave lights, computer, etc on bike when leaving it
Have a bike that looks junky (it can still ride amazingly) to not be appealing to thieves
take off the saddle when you lock up the bike, take saddle with you -- no one wants to ride away on a stolen bike without a saddle
Lock up the bike near a lot of other bikes, if you use two strong locks and there are other easier targets nearby, the thief will take those
Lock up in well-lit busy area with security cameras
Dont have really high-end components on the bike that will make thieves want it
>>895870
Yes. They aren't as fun/agile/responsive/snappy as something like a cyclocross bike or OTS, and are fairly heavy and slow, but if all that doesn't bother you, they can make excellent commuting bikes.
Personally, my first choice for a short-distance commuter would be an OTS, but I would be very content using a tourer for commuting.
>>896123
THANK YOU SO MUCH, i value your opinions and i'm looking into this right now
>>896127
If the lock the rear wheel to lock the frame part was confusing, see http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html
>>896123
All this is practical advice, but pic related costs $50 and will power through the heaviest and fanciest lock in seconds. Those seconds might be noisy ones, but will anyone really care? The only real security is four walls.
>>895834
Similar but unrelated question, how pleb is using spd pedals on the road? I have some look keo max ones and compared to my others I find that spd is just easier to get in/out of.
How wrong is it to use something like the shimano pd-a600? Is there mechanics to back up the keo/spd-sl being superior?
Are cantilever brake pads same as V-brake pads?
I bought a pair of V brake ones for my friend but didn't need it and I got rid of the receipt. Is it okay for me to install it on my cantis?
>>896145
And a baseball bat can break a window. And that thing you posted if the windows have bars.
My bike currently has a variety of bolt sizes and head types. I was thinking of changing them all to a single sized hex/wrench head so that I only need to carry 1-2 smalls tools with me if I need to fix something.
Has anyone done something similar? Is there a preferred head?
Is it just a big waste of time/money all-in-all?
>>896154
>how pleb is using spd pedals on the road?
No-one worth your time gives a shit.
Personally I wouldn't choose those pedals. With only one side to clip into you lose the prime advantage SPDs give you. The high end XTRs are more expensive and only marginally heavier, while maintaining double-sidedness.
To my knowledge you can get SPD shoes with a hard sole so you wouldn't be losing efficiency. Just a few grams.
Do what works, do what you like.
>>896124
What's an OTS?
>>896187
Old ten speed.
>>896192
My commutes aren't short distance so I don't think that would be great.
>>896185
Would you suggest the pd-m9000 or the 9020? Is the wider area worth the weight?
>>896199
It sounds to me from a quick google like the 9020 is more for technical MTB riding, but I really don't have a clue.
>>896200
Many thanks for your assistance
Wonder if you can cycle in wellies desu
Bought a roadie bike with 650B wheels for the Mrs. Will 26" mudguards fit?
>>896237
Probably need pedal spacers no da.
>>896271
That's iffy. Check Compass Cycles, Jitensha Studio, & Velo-Orange to see about 650B sizes.
Wiped out about a week ago. My shifters are all scuffed up now, a few burs here and there. Part plastic and part aluminum. Mechanically, everything works fine, but I imagine it will rub my fingertips raw on a long ride. Should I sand these down, or wrap them in tape, or maybe paint them? Any protips?
>>896303
Were you hurt? What happened?
>>896303
gently sand the rough areas then fill and smooth voids with a plastic filler. once it drys, sand it lightly again then paint the lever or at least coat ti with a sealer.
Is the difference between endurance and sport types of road bikes noticeable for new bikers? Can an endurance road bike be used as an all around bike?
>>896412
An endurance road bike will be more comfortable so if you are not planning to race or ride in fast paced group rides, an endurance road bike would probably be better, especially if you want to do long rides. "Sport" road bikes (aero/lightweight/race bikes) tend to feel faster (even if you're going the same speed) so in that sense they are more fun than an endurance road bike. It really depends on your priorities. Want to do long rides or fast rides?
Also, even pros occasionally use endurance road bikes for regular road races. Specifically one of the top guys in the cobblestone races (forgot his name) is used to riding a Domane (Trek endurance road bike) in said cobblestone races, so since he's used to it, he also uses it in standard road races. And he's a top level pro racer.
If you are new to cycling in general, not just road cycling, then IMO you would be better off with a steel OTS (Old Ten Speed road bike). Much cheaper, lots of fun, great for commuting and cruising around and general riding. Just not as good for racing as modern road bikes, and not as comfortable for long rides as modern "endurance" bikes.
Also, check out >>>/n/bbg if you want help picking out a specific bike.
Are you set on getting a road bike over another type of bike? (nothing against road bikes -- just want to be sure you've considered all options. Road bikes are great)
>>896304
I was riding through what I thought was just a wet spot on the trail. Turned out it had a thin film of mud under the water. I was going about 19 mph and my front wheel went out from under me immediately. I got road rash on my knee, forearm and shoulder. Hit my head on the concrete pretty good, but had my helmet on. I feel like an old man, because I was sore for days. Still cant quite lift my head properly, because my neck is so sore.
Wife was with me and she wiped out trying not to hit me. She landed in the grass mostly and had no injuries.
I've fallen before, but this was my first of anything remotely serious and it kinda freaked me out. I got back in the saddle this afternoon, though.
>>896305
Sounds like solid advice, thanks anon.
My bike has a standard 68mm square tapered bb and I have some cool tourney gs cranks that I want to use with it but when I put the cranks on, the chainring hits the frame. Is there some kind of spacer I can get or a bob with longer spindles so I can run this crankset?
>>896174
pls respons
>>896422
Fabian Cancellara's Domane isn't a normal one, though. The 2014 model has a much shorter head tube length, steeper angle, and some other weird geometry differences that make it closer to a Madone. Trek called it the Domane Classics Edition. This year they switched to what they call the Domane Koppenberg, which is H1 fit.
>>896412
For an all-rounder, I'd go with a more versatile endurance bike, something like the Volagi Viaje. You'll definitely notice the difference in comfort if you go on shitty roads, dirt, and gravel, or on very long rides.
>>896590
Just get a compact multitool.
>>896590
Make sure they have the same thread pitch as the ones you replace or you could fuck stuff up. And make sure they aren't cheap shitty ones that will strip out and such. But really just bring a multitool. Crank Bros M17 or M19.
>>896450
Crikey lucky you did have a helmet own sounds like you would have been brained.
Glad you're alright m8
Why does /n/ say that a 90s MTB Is the best base for a commuter bike. Wouldn't a brand new MTB with today's technology be the better choice?
>>896713
The technology was perfected many decades ago. With proper cleaning and lubrication, you could ride a bike older than your father without issue. But you're probably after something you can find for sale on the cheap and in good condition.
Rigid is for the efficiency and reliability that you get when you give up the front suspension. A suspension fork is utterly useless for even the most terrible roads. If you were a kid at a time when suspension bikes were expensive, you just rode your damn rigid MTB wherever.
90's is because that's when MTB's started expolding in popularity. If you find an 80's MTB in good condition, it's no skin off your back.
MTB because you get a safe and enjoyable upright position, a familiar flat or riser bar, clearance for wide tires and greater durability.
You can get a bike just like this brand new from several manufacturers, but if you take the time and hunt down a used bike in good condition, you will pay much less and end up with a less covetable bicycle.
>>896713
Because rigid MTBs are rare now because the price of shitty shocks has fallen, and in the 90's, geometry was more road-like. Closer to the "urban commuter bike" ideal.
>>896721
>The technology was perfected many decades ago.
Also, the technology was in a place where a lot of experienced cyclists feel what a hybrid should have been. The problem being hybrids are almost always low end, and modern hybrids usually have a shock, which is shit and just for marketing because they're sold as comfort bikes.
Are leg and arm warmers a good investment for cold weather commuting or would a hoodie and wool socks suffice?
I want to upgrade an old 126mm Steelframe that lies around for no use. Its no big deal to fit a 130mm wheel, but i want to run a 11 Speed Shifting on it. Would there be any issues with that?
>>896740
I ride in -20 weather on average. I can get by just wearing those regular base layers/long johns you find in department stores. I also wear my winter boots that I already have. My winter clothing is pretty casual. Spending $30 on one pair of warmers doesn't make sense when you can get two pcs of long johns for $30. It's also quite a subjective matter. I'm pretty tolerant to the cold.
>3-speed only
What does it mean?
>>896776
There are many nominal '26"' sizes. You'll have better results if you search by ETRTO dimensions.
>>896740
How cold is cold, and what's your tolerance for that when you've gotten warmed up on the bike? Is your commute long enough to want to wear cycling gear or do you wear regular clothes?
Anyway, I think a couple of 100% wool sweaters from a thrift store are a much better investment than arm warmers. I'd really only consider them worthwhile if you were racing in very cold weather. As for your legs, you could probably just wear tights underneather whatever you already have.
>>896740
Check out the winter commuting thread, but hoodie and wool socks won't cut it where I live.
>>896776
it is for 26x1-3/8 tires, which are commonly found on 3-speed bicycles. Many older bicycles have 26x1-3/8 tires, which corresponds with the ISO bead seat diameter of 590mm (or a 597mm BSD if you are working with certain old Schwinn bicycles). Most mountain bicycle and cruiser bicycle tires, which use decimals to express their size (e.g 26x1.95), are 559mm BSD.
Sheldon Brown has a useful article on tire sizing. Hope this is all useful!
>old ass 18 speed beater
>still replace every possible joint in the thing, including bottom bracket, crankset etc.
>crankset gets no wobble whatsoever
>250ish miles later starts wobbling
I go with molybdenum for everything, could it be I used too much and it helps the cup slipping out the frame? Shit is tightened so hard if I go a hair further it won't move. I usually push the thing because I'm in shape, no matter how steep the street is (behind where I live it's like 50° and I push it all the way up on speed 2-5/6 like it's nothing). I wonder if I tortured it and the frame is fucked.
The weather's getting colder and I need something more comfortable than jeans to wear while riding. Are there any good bib tights around the $100 range?
If I get some summer gloves will it stop the disgusting slurry of sweat and sunscreen on my handlebars?
This wasn't a problem with long sleeves or winter gloves.
>>896798
I got a jersey and some baggy cycling shorts, so I wear those for commuting. Not sure temp ever goes below freezing, but I feel cold standing still in the 60s.
what mountainbike to get for exploring my roundabouts, often in woods or gravel roads for 500 euro monies?
So I want to get Clip on Aero bars for my bike.
Partially because I'm interested in TTing and also because i wanna do some epic touring.
What are the best Ski bend clip on bars that don't cost a fortune?
I'm thinking of getting some studded tires for when there's ice on the path. Ice tends to last a week to ten days, then it's gone. This may happen three or four times a season.
If I change tires back and forth every time this happens, am I fucking my tires up? A second wheelset isn't my favorite idea but maybe it's cheaper in the long run....
>>893656
So I have a road bike frame with vertical dropouts. A while ago my deraliur hanger bent and broke off and I've really missed that bike since. I want to make it into a single speed but how would I get any sort of tension? I heard that half link chains would work but I want to know what you guys think.
>>896977
90s rigid mtb
>>>/n/bbg
Anything new for 500 euros is going to be shit
Or you could get lucky and find a used modern cyclocross bike or cross country mountain bike or 'trail' mountain bike. pinkbike.com/buysell
Cyclocross bikes can handle gravel and dirt great, and mellow singletrack. But once you start doing stuff with rocks, roots, etc, or a lot of loose sand and deep mud, then you're better with a mountain bike
>>896869
Sporthill 3SP pants. Designed for Nordic skiing but great for winter cycling.
>>896740
Synthetic socks are better than wool. Hoodie is alright but if it's cotton it will tend to get wet from snow and sweat. Depends on the conditions you ride in, how far you ride, etc. I like Sporthill 3SP clothes and synthetic ski socks.
>>896713
90s rigid mtbs are cheap and not appealing to thieves. OTS (old ten speed road bikes) are better commuters if you ride only on pavement though.
>>896935
Giro Bravo gloves are based as fuck
Thread might be dead but I'll give it a try. I received a bike yesterday. My cousin bought it at a pretty good price because the brakes and gear stuff is on it but not adjusted. I've never worked with bikes before, so do I just pull cables around and tighten things until i can brake and shift gears alright? The entire bike itself is pretty basic, but then again I'm an autist
Knee hurts after along ride, have a feeling that my saddle was too low because my legs didn't look that extended when pedalling, is that likely to be the cause?
>>897156
Yes. Knee should go to about 10 -15 degrees off of 180 or about 90% extension. Make sure your saddle is positioned so that your knee is above the peddle on the down stroke. If you still have knee issues look into getting shorter crank arms. I had a bunch of issues after my knee surgery, went away after i moved from 175mm cranks to 170mm, no noticeable loss in performance.
>>897163
Hips moving around, too much pressure on your taint, locking knees when in the most extended leg position.
There's no exact science. Just adjust it as best you can, then go for a ride, and microadjust it until you find that sweet spot. Then I recommend making a little mark on your seat tube so you have a reference if you ever have to take it off.
Got some weird ass size seat tube, and I'm not going to spend $70 on a rare shitty seatpost.
Plastic (USE brand filled thermoplastic) or aluminum seatpost shim? Prices are about the same ~$15 because it's a weird ass size.
Advantages of plastic seem to be won't corrode the seatpost, or corrode itself to frame, possibly lighter, possibly will reduce creaking found with some shims. Advantages of aluminum one is it's not made from plastic.
is there a site i can find decent touring bikes for a beginner or does anyone have recommendations (1500 is the highest i really wanna go) i was looking at a few brodies or treks but not sure what i should look for
>>897214
What currency?
>>897217
USD
>>897214
Fuji Touring, Trek 520, Long Haul Trucker, Kona Sutra, Jamis Aurora
>>897240
Depends on where you are touring
Vaguely unrelated, but have I stumbled across BR on youtube?!
So I got into cycling this year, went from barely being able to do a 2km lap around my house to doing an 80km trip (think my issue on my first rides was just being dehydrated to begin with)
Anyway, a couple of moths ago my christmas overtime started, and I knew I wouldn't have any time to do my cycling between then and boxing day, so I gave my bike a good cleaning and put it away until my overtime ends in January and I can get a head start on cycling for next year.
I just repumped the tires incase there's any damage to the wheels, and noticed a bit of chain rub. Too late to check since it's after midnight, so I don't want to start clacking away with my levers to see if it's just crosschaining, but would a few months of being left idle allow the cables to stretch enough that it would cause any issues?
Any other tips to better prepare it for it to be left idle? All I really did was pump up the tires, give it a good clean and relubed everything. Should have probably put something over the top of it to prevent dust but that'll come off with a clean anyway.
>>897257
apes, are people., dolphins too.
>>897280
Select cephalopods (cuttlefish species) as well.
How bad is leaving a bike outside? I live in a fairly damp area so I imagine it's not great.
I leave my bike outside on a bike rack all day at Uni and when I get home I bring it inside but it takes up a good chunk of room and when it's wet it makes a puddle on my floor.
How outside would be too outside?
I imagine the garage is fine. What about under cover but otherwise exposed?
>>897334
Forgot two other things I wanted to ask.
Does anyone have any tips for removing sticker residue from the bike frame?
Would using citric acid to clean rust be ok? Would it damage the paint at all?
>>897334
It's not that bad unless it's always outside. The combination of dampness and UV rays isn't kind. Dampness alone sucks, though...even storing it in a garage, it will need a little extra maintenance. Not a whole lot. Just make sure to keep it clean, and grease ya bearings every so often.
>>897334
>damp area, not great
Nope. Bikes are built light and not set up to handle weather. Expensive ones are often worse. If it has fancy 'city bike' features like full chaincase, gearhub, hydraulic brakes, and not-steel frame it might fair a bit better, but guessing not. If you want it to keep braking and shifting properly your life will consist of cleaning, oiling, adjusting, replacing, or paying a bike shop to do it for you. If this does not sound like a fun time, then 'less outside' is the 'right outside. /n/ hates fenders, but you and your bike absolutely need them.
>>residue
"Goo Gone" solvent stuff from the hardware store. Works great, small bottle goes quite a ways.
>>citric acid
Doubt it will hurt, doubt it will help the rust though. You really need to sand that all the way out and paint over.
>>897342
>/n/ hates fenders
There was one retard in that thread, since when was this a consensus?
>>897342
I love fenders. Only full fenders though. Preferably shiny metal things with leather mudflaps. Half fenders can fuck off.
>>897342
You bring up a good point, I've been wanting to get fenders but no idea what I need to look for when getting them.
Definitely no fancy features, it's just an old MTB that I got for free from someone who had left it to decay in their garage. I forgot to mention that the rusted parts are mainly the bolts and screws along the bike (on the brake lever, bottle cage area etc). There's also some rust along the rim of the wheel where I guess the break pads had worn down some of the paint.
Hate fenders, they rattle, they're heavy, the get scraped up and make your bike fall down when you lean it on a wall, they cost money.
On the right bike they look nice though.
I also live somewhere dry.
>>897347
>they rattle
Already got a rattling pannier rack so that's no worry.
>they're heavy
Really? I would've thought they'd have lightweight plastic versions or something.
>make your bike fall down when you lean it on a wall
How's that?
>>897342
>>897347
Heed the Word of the Prophet!
>http://www.adventurecycling.org/default/assets/resources/fenders.pdf
>>897335
Goo gone, WD-40, and citrus cleaner are all fair game on paint. Goof off is too strong for some paint.
Will I get much out of truing my wheels if they're already mostly okay? I have 25mm tires and the wheels are warped ~1.5 mm at most.
>>897347
confirmed for riding a 1960s huffy
>>897387
No
